Discovering Nga Haerenga by Gigi Ragland Along the

Pedaling towards the snow-dusted Southern Alps of , just one of the many great views along the route.

ours of plane and van trans- of the road, but I was still dazed from Cycling with a buddy was definitely a port left me feeling caged adjusting to the time difference on the benefit of joining a group tour, especial- and ready to spring. I was other side of the world on New ly in this instance. itching to ride and be free Zealand’s spectacular . As a female traveling solo, I decided SOUTH ADVENTURE Hof my jet lag. My new British biking Luckily, it was a sleepy morning in to join a guided group bike tour instead buddy, another female solo traveler, and Clyde, and we had the road to ourselves. of renting a bike and heading out on I set off spinning side by side along a This was the first — but not the last my own. Cycling solo has its merits, you backcountry lane as we headed to the — time my British biking buddy would basically are your own boss (and crew), main trailhead in the town of Clyde, remind me in a polite English accent and self-guiding allows infinite options the beginning of the Otago Central Rail to bike on the left side of the street or for making changes or not. Considering Trail. Suddenly, as we turned the street trail. Admittedly, getting nailed by a that I only had about a week to tour, corner, she raised her voice, and in her car as I rounded a corner was not in planning logistics was better left to an very proper Queen’s English, yelled, my plans, and I felt like a dimwit. In operator that knew the ins and outs of “Keep left, stay on the left side of the New Zealand cyclists ride on the left the trail route. This way, I could just street!” Generally I follow the rules side following the road rules of the U.K. enjoy the cycling without concerns and possibly make some new Kiwi friends from day one I felt at ease, possibly be- to do with it. among the group. cause there were other single women, Booking a trip during shoulder Two other women traveling solo but everyone was pleasant.” season offers less crowds, costs less, and joined the Otago group bike tour. While Attending a conference in Auckland there’s a chance that the weather will we were all from different places and was my main reason for being in New stay nice — or not. Sometimes it’s just a were different ages, there was one Zealand. However, like any bike-touring roll of the dice. In my case, it was a bit common denominator: we wanted to traveler who likes spending more time sketchy. experience a little outdoor cycling ad- in the saddle than at a desk, I plotted I flew in on the tail end of Cyclone venture within the company of a small how to combine business with scenic Ita that had cut a stormy path across group. Lauren was an English school- spinning pleasure. Of course I’m not the northern coast of Australia and teacher exploring New Zealand for a alone in this attempt to squeeze in a most of New Zealand. It was right few months and winding up her journey bike tour before or after a conference before Easter weekend in mid-April,

The Adventure South Otago group sugared up and ready to ride after an Easter candy fuel break.

with a bike tour. Liz, a local Kiwi, had or a business meeting. How could you and if you live in the Northern Hemi- chosen to take her very first vacation by not? New Zealand is an outdoor en- sphere, that means spring flowers, baby GIGI RAGLANDGIGI herself without the family in tow. The thusiast’s paradise. It is said that if you bunnies, rainbows, and soft rain show- trip was her first time traveling solo and combine the seven continents’ most ers. Halfway around the world, it was her first experience on a bike tour. Both dramatically beautiful landscape and quite the opposite. One long flight and were new to multi-day bike touring and rolled it into one country, you would autumn appeared overnight. It was as if were a bit anxious about their endur- come up with New Zealand. Pacific Is- a magician had snapped his fingers and ance in finishing the 150-kilometer land beaches and rolling farmland cov- the scene had changed. The soft pinks Otago Central Rail Trail. But the excite- er the North Island whereas the South and whites of budding blooms disap- ment of being in the beautiful outdoors Island offers an extensive volcanic peared, replaced by the bold reds and and the support and encouragement of plateau, giving way to alpine mountains golds of the fall season. I had experi- a group go a long way to fuel the body within view of the sea in the south, and enced traveling from winter to summer and spirit. When we talked about the onto sub-Antarctic islands near the on “snowbird” trips, but leaving spring uncertainties of traveling alone and coastline. The hard part was deciding for fall was a much different animal, meeting new people, Liz said, “Right where to go. But the weather had a lot and a beastly one at that, because the gale-force winds of the cyclone tore through the coastal areas, causing road and trail closures. To be honest, when I first looked at cycling in New Zealand, I had visions of pedaling through the rolling country of the Hobbits and the ups and downs of Middle Earth. But timing, my schedule, and the cyclone took care of that decision for me. I was headed for the middle of the South Island. Luckily, the weather system was on its way out by the time I arrived. Wet and damp was okay with me — you can still ride in those condi- tions. Cyclones, not so much. Months before the trip, the tour operator sent out a packing list with instructions RAGLANDGIGI to come prepared for rain, and I was Enjoying a hike along the trails of Blue Lake near St. Bathan’s historic gold mining town. happy I had remembered to pack the gear. Rain is an issue that every touring tours as weather becomes more vari- ed bike tour of the season, the Otago cyclist must deal with at some point or able and cold. There are plenty of local Central Rail Trail, which was fortuitous another. Traveling to New Zealand at New Zealand operators that offer group considering the conditions of some of the peak of fall season warrants a rain bike tours. I discovered the other trails after the storm. jacket at least. Although snow wasn’t Adventure South through a friend After being picked up in expected, it could rain at any time. in the bike industry who highly rec- Christchurch and fitted to our bikes, we Autumn is also the end of the season ommended them. They were able to drove through the center of the South for the majority of guided group bike squeeze me in on the last fully support- Island, admiring views of sheep dotting

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST f ebrua ry 2015 the vast valleys with the snow-capped Southern Alps as a backdrop. Low-ly- ing clouds of wispy fog blanketed the plains while the Alps rose up through the mist, hemming in the edges as we made our way to the town of Clyde for the start of the tour. Of the New Zealand Cycle Trail’s 13 Great Rides located on the South Island, the Otago Central Rail Trail is designated as one of the easiest. Even though I was hoping for a little tougher terrain, there were plenty of golden moments to be found along the trail, especially in fall, and the old railway towns have plenty of character. Besides, I was looking forward to the views and the camaraderie of new bike buddies. Certainly, I was glad for the compa- ny of Lauren. As a schoolteacher, she was used to rounding up children and had such a cheery way of chiding me when I went astray that I didn’t feel too bad about being fuzzy-headed. I imagined her students felt that way too. Despite riding on the wrong side of the road in Clyde, we did manage to pedal onto the trailhead to begin the three-day cycling journey of the Otago Central Rail Trail. There we met up with the rest of our group and Adventure South guide. We began on Easter Sunday. Like Liz, I felt instantly comfortable with the group. One young woman, Sally, had decorated her bike with a bright yellow Easter basket full of candies. “Nothing like a little sugar to get you moving,” she quipped in a Kiwi accent as she smiled and passed a few choco- late eggs to me. Soon we were “hippi- ty-hoppity” after a few bites of candy and ready to ride. I learned that she and her family, all Kiwis, made up most of our group. In fact, she teased me, laughing, “Glad you could make our family trip.” Sally and her fiancé James (also on the tour) were engaged to be married and lived in Australia. Their parents were on the tour as well as Sally’s Aunt Wendy. It had seemed like a good idea to gather all the soon-to-be relatives for a trip before the marriage. And they all seemed to enjoy cycling together as a family, an auspicious sign for the upcoming nuptials. Much like other touring cyclists

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 attempting the Otago Rail Trail, our Rides network, Otago offers exception- tion. All the station sites (former train motley crew encompassed all ability al facilities throughout, from mom- depots) have a red-painted replica of and fitness levels and ages ranged from and-pop cafés, little neighborhood art a New Zealand Railways Corporation the 20s to the 60s. On the Otago trail, galleries, preservation of small town emergency phone box where you can you’ll find young families, multi-gen- heritage, and charming accommoda- find the rubber stamps to mark the erational groups, couples, solo cyclists, tions that reflect the character of the passports. Of the $10 passport price, locals out for a spin to the next town, railway’s past. Indeed, the rail trail is eight are contributed to the ongoing enhancement of the trail. Adventure South provided all of us with the pass- I ESPECIALLY LIKE NGA HAERENGA, THE NAME ports as a souvenir of our tour. It was up to us to stop at each station to collect FOR THE NEW ZEALAND CYCLE TRAIL NETWORK, the stamps. Along with the stamp WHICH TRANSLATES TO ‘THE JOURNEYS.’ stations, there were historical signage and story boards, railway remnants, and a number of depots still standing to the extremely fit, and the not-so-fit — the premier prototype for other Great investigate. all going at their own pace. What makes Rides to follow in that it has succeeded Completing the entire 150-kilome- the Otago such a pleasure to ride is that in providing economic, environmental, ter (93-mile) trail usually takes cyclists it appeals to all levels of cyclists. Bar- and social benefits to the communities three to five days, depending on how bara, the mother of the groom, was con- of . Not only is it con- quickly they want to ride and how long cerned about finishing the three-day sidered the most popular trail in the they want to stay in the towns along the rail trail and saw herself as the weakest network, but Kiwis consider it one of way. The first leg from Clyde to link, “I still managed to get through. the top adventures to enjoy in New Lauder was 27 miles, passing six And the support from the group was Zealand. stations with options to get passports always there,” she said, adding that The entire route is broken up into stamped at Clyde, Alexandra, Galloway, finishing was important but that “the 18 point-to-point stations. All travelers Chatto Creek, , and Lauder. I eclectic mix of the group made the along the Otago Rail Trail — hikers and could see why Barbara was concerned whole experience all the better.” cyclists — can purchase an Official Rail about not finishing. If you were not fa- As the “crown jewel” in the Great Trail Passport to stamp at each sta- miliar with bike touring off-road, even

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST f ebrua ry 2015 the legacy of the indigenous people of New Zealand who first arrived on the islands 1,000 years ago. Pronouncing the Maori names of some of the natural sites wasn’t easy, but it was always interesting. There was the Manuherikia River, which means “tied bird,” where we crossed a former road-rail bridge over the waterway. Aotearoa is the Maori name for the country of New Zealand, which means “land of the long white cloud,” and the Maori greeting, Kia Ora means “be well or healthy.” I especially like Nga Haerenga, the name for the New Zealand Cycle Trail Net- work, which in Maori translates to “the journeys.” That wonderful term is what the Otago Central Rail Trail provides, and Adventure South was the catalyst to

GIGI RAGLANDGIGI initiate our group’s journey. Cyclists emerge from one of the three railway tunnels along the Otago Central Rail Trail. I was embraced by all the beauty of the season as parts of the trail were though the track was fairly smooth, was more difficult off-road than on city lined with autumn-touched golden wide, and well-packed dirt, there were streets. I wanted to zoom down the willows and poplars. Rolling along, hills to ascend and descend, which hills, but keeping left felt weird. Luckily, we glimpsed grazing sheep on grassy required some basic mountain biking Lauren was riding with me for most of meadows. It became a game to identify skills. The challenge for me was the the trail. the type of sheep throughout the hills constant reminder to stay on the left We pedaled near rivers and creeks and pastures. There were black-faced side of the path, which oddly enough, bearing tongue-twisting Maori names, Suffolk sheep, dirty gray colored

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 Merino sheep, and the sweet and dreamy, white, fluffy Corriedale and IF YOU GO: Romney sheep — iconic images of New Zealand. As we raced past a flock of Adventure South Cycling Tours: Merino sheep, Lauren called out, “Tell advsouth.co.nz, 866.479.9827 your cousins thank you for the wool!” That day she was sporting a Merino The New Zealand Cycling Network wool top that kept away the chill of (nzcycletrail.com) encompasses the autumn winds. For most of the 20th country’s “Great Rides,” including century wool was the country’s most the Otago Central Rail Trail (otago valuable export. Now dairy operations centralrailtrail.co.nz). Primarily have overtaken sheep farming. off-road, but expanding to include Bike touring on the trail grants you road routes, the network’s 22 trails the chance to mix with other cyclists can be explored online to plan the at each section. There is a real social perfect trip. atmosphere to the ride. Taking a break General vacation planning and every day at one of the many cafés tourism resources can be found at along the trail is a must for anyone newzealand.com. hiking or biking the Otago Central Rail Trail. Restaurants, cafés, and bistros are run by locals who offer tasty homemade handful of restaurants were closed. goods to eat. The made-from-scratch However, thanks to our guide, a small treats — layered carrot cake, brownies, café owned by a local couple had been and freshly baked fruit scones with lined up to make dinner for us. Our clotted cream — are hard to pass up guide promised it would be a nice and easily justifiable after logging a few “home-style” meal. miles on the bike. At least that’s the way Flashlights in hand, we trudged we felt for the duration of our time on from the schoolhouse across the old the Otago. The challenge was to stop rail tracks to the only building with yourself from eating too many freshly lights on. Sniffing the air, I breathed baked scones at the breaks. There is in the aroma of baking bread and the something strangely nice about feeling smoky scent of roasting meat. The like a very civilized cyclist though. It’s delicious odors did not go unnoticed fun to sit out on the lawn of a bike-tour- by the group. We walked in all smiles ing café, sipping tea and noshing on in anticipation of the feast. Sometimes the baked goodies du jour, all the while you don’t know how hungry you are sporting helmet hair without a care in until you smell food. In a small wooden the world. building, we squished together along Upon reaching our lodging for the one long wooden table only feet from night at the historic Lauder School- the kitchen. The take-out counter by house, which had been remodeled into the door was festooned with plates a B&B, we noticed lots of whimsical art and cutlery. The couple that owned pieces made from bike parts displayed the tiny café had been cooking all day, in the town as well as signs crafted with preparing for our group’s dinner. Wafts hubs and wheels. At the Lauder B&B, of steam puffed in the kitchen as they a lineup of classic bikes was exhibited dished up big grandma-style ceramic on the lawn. We saw this welcoming bowls full of food. feature throughout the towns along the That evening, our appetites were route. It was evident that bike tourists rewarded with a superb Easter Sunday were valued for their consistent pres- dinner of local roast lamb served family ence along the trail. style with fresh minted peas, potatoes, Good dinners were especially appre- fresh baked bread, loads of fresh butter, ciated by ravenous cyclists at the end salads, and decadent carrot cake for of the day. Over the years, Adventure dessert. The intimacy of sitting to- South has developed great relationships gether at one long table watching the with restaurants on the route. In owners in the kitchen carve the roast Lauder, the meal was extra special. It as they cheerily chatted with us is a was Easter Sunday, and most of the very fond memory. It seemed as if we

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST f ebrua ry 2015 Listed below are the bicycle tour companies that Bicycle Tour Operators/Advertisers advertise in Adventure Cyclist. Besides supporting this magazine and Adventure Cycling Association with advertising dollars, they’re willing to invest Adventure Cycling Blue Marble Travel Experience Plus! money to be seen by Adventure Cyclist readers. Association bluemarble.org experienceplus.com We can’t necessarily vouch for them, but we adventurecycling.org/tours 203.702.4854 800.685.4565 think their support makes them worthy of high- 800.755.2453 Bubba’s Pampered Freewheeling Adventures lighting here. Adventure South Pedalers freewheeling.ca adventuresouth.co.nz bubbaspamperedpedalers.com 800.672.0775 866.479.9827 321.759.3433 Girolibero Pedal Across Wisconsin Symbiosis Custom Travel America By Bicycle CanBiCuba girolibero.com pedalacrosswisconsin.com symbiosis-travel.com abbike.com canbicuba.com +39.0444330724 847.707.6888 +44.0.845.123.2844 888.797.7057 905.577.9922 Great Explorations Pedal & Sea Adventures Tour d’Afrique Around Wisconsin Canigou Cycling great-explorations.com pedalandseaadventures.com tourdafrique.com Bicycle Tours canigou-cycling.com 800.242.1825 877.777.5699 416.364.8255 aroundwisbike.com +34.972.63.74.24 Holland Bike Tours Real Travel France Timberline Adventures Baja Wheeling Charleston Bicycle Tours hollandbiketours.com realtravelfrance.com timbertours.com bajawheeling.com/cycling.html charlestonbicycletours.com +31.30.6364677 011.33.6.22.01.37.34 800.417.2453 011.52.1612.152.6065 800.408.1830 Independent Tourist Relax Bicycle Tours TradNatura Sport Beer & Bike Tours Classic Adventures independenttourist.com relaxbiketours.com cycling-tours-in-hungary.com beerandbiketours.com classicadventures.com 866.269.9913 +33.6.38.12.32.82 +36.1.2758490 970-201-1085 800.777.8090 Iron Donkey Senior Cycling Tours Translation Spot Bike Dreams CrossRoads irondonkey.com seniorcycling.com translationspot.net/spain bike-dreams.com crossroadscycling.com 01144.29.20.891650 540.668.6307 biking/413.584.0609 +31.0475.311047 800.971.2453 KE Travel Sockeye Cycle Co. Vacation Bicycling Bike Tours Direct Cycle America keadventure.com Alaska Bicycle Tours vacationbicycling.com biketoursdirect.com cycleamerica.com 888.630.4415 cyclealaska.com 706.363.0341 877.462.2423 800.245.3263 877.292.4154 OK Cycle & Woman Tours Bike Tour Vacation Cycle of Life Adventure Tours Southeast Cycling womantours.com biketourvacations.com cycleoflifeadventures.com okcycletours.com secyclingtours.com 800.249.1444 248.345.6929 303.945.9886 613.230.2100 x5209 770.375.0010 Bios Adventures Cyclomundo PAC Tour biosadventures.com cyclomundo.com pactour.com 952.486.7273 646.233.1354 262.736.2453 were having dinner at a friend’s house for a night of curling (yes, curling) at is a great way to expand a holiday into rather than a scheduled trip dinner. We the only dedicated rink in the Southern something more than just cycling. They all toasted and thanked our hosts, then Hemisphere in the town of Naseby. place you in experiences that offer a recounted touring tales from the day. Following the completion of the Otago deeper sense of place than you would Of course, there were more high- Rail Trail, we took a train ride aboard most likely find on your own. lights on our next two days cycling the Taieri Gorge Express to the city We left Lauder and pedaled onward the Rail Trail. In addition to the full of . Adventure South and our to Ranfurly, a distance of 29 miles. days of touring, we visited the historic guide had arranged all of these extra ac- We passed five stations with opportu- gold-mining town of St. Bathans. There tivities. Going with local operators and nities for passport stamps at Auripo, we walked along Blue Lake, headed out guides who are familiar with the area CONTINUED ON PAGE 65

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 KATY TRAIL “ENLIGHTENED” More than CONTINUED FROM PAGE 39 spinning the pedals! Immerse yourself in DISCOVERING NGA HAERENGA history and quaint towns in this intimate tour along the nation’s longest continuous rail- trail. Lodging includes historic hotels/B&B’s. , , Wedderburn, Wineries, microbreweries & unique attractions. and Ranfurly. The day’s ride offered September/October departures. Info @ picture-taking opportunities to capture katytrailbiketour.com or [email protected] several of the most iconic bridge and or 573.380.7875 tunnel crossings of the Otago. The first RIDE ACROSS AMERICA FAST Join was the curved rail bridge spanning the Transcontinental Record Holders Lon Haldeman Manuherikia River. Our tires rattled & Susan Notorangelo for your cycling adventures across the 383-foot-long bridge, the from 7 to 30 days. Specializing in Training longest on the trail. We then pedaled Camps, Historic Route 66, Rural Wisconsin, into the mouths of two rail tunnels Eastern Mountains, Peru, Africa and over 80 cross-country events since 1981 PAC Tour, www. carved within the schist stone of the pactour.com, 262-736-2453. Poolburn Gorge. With headlamps on, we rode single file along the center FLORIDA KEYS HOTEL TRIP Fully supported, portion of the chiseled tunnels, slowly outstanding hotel accommodations, DoubleTree by Hilton, Holiday Inn Express, Hampton Inn. pedaling through the inky darkness 6-day trip December 7-12, 2015. Key Largo to to the other side. We continued along Key West & back. Stunning beach scenery, great the canyon gorge wrapped with golden

meals, 2 layover days in Key West. Only $950.00. willows to a gradual descent over the RAGLANDGIGI www.floridakeysbikeride.com, 847-309-4740, Maniototo Plain, Maori for “Plain The Bride-to-Be donning her Easter helmet [email protected]. of Blood,” a nod to the deep red that and bonny yellow candy basket full of sweets for the group. KATY TRAIL BICYCLE TOUR August 30– washes over the landscape at sunrise September 5, 2015 Following Lewis and and sunset. Clark’s route, this flat and totally traffic-free The last day was also our longest day We passed Barbara and her husband tour is on America’s longest Rails to Trails. of cycling, 37 miles that would take us and I wondered how she was faring. This fully supported tour, which includes daily route sheets and SAG stops, over-nights from Ranfurly to Middlemarch. There She seemed to be pedaling along fine. in B&B’s and Historic Hotels. All breakfasts were seven more stations to stamp Later I learned that she and her hus- and dinners as well as lodging included. Tour our passports, several bridges to cross, band devised a plan to get through the starts just outside of St Louis where you and tunnels to snake through before lengthy last miles. “Our strategy was for will be returned upon completion of the reaching the end of the trail. My pass- each of us to do a kilometer as the lead tour. You deserve to be PAMPERED! Details from BubbasPamperedPedalers.com or port was nearly complete. Station stops person and ride hard for that kilometer. [email protected] included Waipiata, Kokonga, Tiroiti, We polished it off like professionals!” Hyde, Rock and Pillar, Ngapuna, and she boasted. CYCLING THE ERIE CANAL July 12-19, Middlemarch. Of these stations, three As my British buddy and I tore 2015 — Learn from canal historians about the people, places and things that made the canal so buildings remain intact as historic sites: through the cross-country, rolling last leg important. Visit museums, take a boat tour on the Hyde, Rock and Pillar, and Ngapuna. of our journey, I asked if she could slow canal and enjoy miles of beautiful rural scenery. There were more chances to down a bit so we could just spin and take The 400 mile route from Buffalo to Albany, NY pronounce Maori words as the trail in the final bits of the Otago landscape. is 70% canal path and 30% adjacent roads. Most crossed the Taieri River. We passed At that moment, a flock of small birds meals, SAG, refreshment stops, luggage transport, maps & cue sheets, evening entertainment, the village of Kokonga, which means that had been trailing us flew ahead and campsites at schools and colleges. www.ptny.org/ “a corner,” referring to a change in the seemed to be teasing us to keep up. “I canaltour or 518-434-1583 course of the river toward the south. love chasing the birds on the trail,” said We left the Taieri Gorge and rode onto Lauren. “It feels like we are flying too!” RAGIN’ CAJUN COUNTRY May 2-8, 2015 – the open landscape of the Strath Taieri And it did as we laughed and geared up to Bicycle through the heart of Cajun Country — partake of all the food, music, and culture that Plain with their views of cone-shaped keep up with the flock. That was my Nga Acadiana has to offer! On this relaxed tour you hills, reminders of ancient volcanoes. Haerenga moment. can enjoy jambalaya, crawfish pie, and gumbo. The Rock and Pillar Range dominat- You’ll find that the spicy cuisine of southern ed the horizon to the west with huge The author’s favorite way to travel is via bike as Louisiana is complemented by its mellow terrain rocky outcroppings. Strewn along the long as she figures out which side of the road to ride. — fields of rice and sugarcane, swamplands and Gigi Ragland is a freelance travel writer that enjoys bayous. The tour will take you through historic grassy slopes were big stone tors, giant sharing tales along the trails of some of the most settlements where you can sample a wide range boulders. It was an odd site — like a scenic places on earth. For more information about of culinary delights, historic sites, and local giant’s toy blocks scattered on a carpet Ragland, visit gigiragland.com. music. Don’t miss this chance to pedal through of lush grass — with tiny sheep grazing adventurecycling.org/ the Deep South! $949. nearby. From there we rolled over the tours. plains, relishing the views as we rode the last few miles into Middlemarch.

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 65