GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ TARN-ET-GARONNENORMANDY TARN-ET-GARONNENORMANDY ❘ ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS

The timeless charms of With its long sandy beaches, lush interior and rich history, The harbour at Normandy has always offered an idyllic French fix. But this year, has inspired artists and musicians

Gillian Thornton finds plenty of new reasons to visit too ❯❯ with its beauty © SHUTTERSTOCK IMAGE

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“NORMANDY’S ICONIC ATTRACTIONS NEVER LOSE THEIR CHARM: SANDY BEACHES, WOODED VALLEYS, AND SCULPTED CLIFFS ”

ruise into - with Brittany Ferries and admire the shores of Ouistreham and Lion-sur-Mer as they curve westwards in a tantalising arc of golden sand. Families relax over picnics, a far cry from the events of C1944 when this tranquil spot was codenamed , and Allied soldiers – my father amongst them – landed here at the start of Operation Overlord. Today, Normandy’s five D-Day beaches – Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword – are once again places to relax and have fun. But for many, they bring back poignant memories. Our family was lucky. My 20-year- old father survived the war, met my mother, and was able to tell us his story, but so many Allied troops died on Normandy’s beaches with no permanent memorial.

This year, however, the British Normandy Memorial Clockwise from above: Omaha will be inaugurated at Ver-sur-Mer on June 6, 77 years Beach, one of the D-Day landing sites; after the events of D-Day, or Jour J to the French. Percheron horse power; the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer; the Built on the hillside above Gold Beach, the columns are monument to the US Rangers who inscribed with the names of 22,442 servicemen and captured the gun batteries at Maisy on women who lost their lives during the Battle of June 9, 1944; inset, Norman cattle; Les Rhumbs Christian Dior museum; Saint- Normandy between June 6 and August 30, 1944. Also Céneri-le-Gérei, one of the Plus Beaux recorded are the men and women from other nations VIllages de France; historic Rouen; the around the world who fought under British command pretty town of Bellême; the statue of at Falaise

or who were attached to the British armed forces, been busy opening new cultural attractions, as well as members of the British Merchant Navy and revamping old ones and organising a roster civilians in France. of fascinating exhibitions. This summer will also hopefully mark the start of a The major literary event of the year is the friendly invasion of France by overseas holidaymakers bicentenary of the birth of Gustave Flaubert, one of after the travel restrictions of the past year. France’s most famous and influential writers. Set in his Normandy has been closely linked to England since home town of Rouen, Flaubert’s debut novel, Madame William, Duke of Normandy arrived in Hastings in 1066 Bovary, is the tragic story of a woman living beyond to stage a successful takeover bid. America too can her means. Initially banned for obscenity after it was claim historic ties: Walt Disney’s ancestors were from serialised in 1856, it went on to become a modern D’Isigny in and counted themselves amongst classic. Find out more about Flaubert and his works the Duke’s most loyal supporters. through exhibitions, tourist trails and other commemorative events across the region. NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS Another literary legend in the spotlight this year is Normandy’s iconic attractions never lose their charm: Marcel Proust, 100 years after he won the coveted Prix the sandy beaches, wooded valleys, and sculpted chalk Goncourt for the second volume of his nine-volume cliffs beloved by Impressionist painters such as Monet, epic, À la Recherche du Temps Perdu. The resort of Sisley and Pissarro; heritage towns like Caen and on the Calvados coast was the author’s Rouen, Honfleur, and Dieppe; and the lush favourite holiday retreat and April 2021 saw the bocage landscape of apple orchards and meadows, opening of the Marcel Proust Museum – La Villa du grazed by Normandy’s native brown-and-white cows Temps Retrouvé – which showcases the Belle Époque and the finest of equestrian bloodstock. period here on the Côte Fleurie. Nothing is ever far away in this enchanting region, And if you’re addicted to the Netflix seriesLupin , so it’s easy to spend half a day exploring coast or inspired by Maurice Leblanc’s 19th-century novels countryside, and the other half at a museum or gallery. about gentleman burglar Arsène Lupin, you’ll want to And whilst the world has been closed to holidaymakers visit places connected to the original stories around

IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK, GILLIAN THORNTON GILLIAN © SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAGES for the best part of the past 12 months, Normandy has Rouen and the Seine Valley, and Dieppe. ❯❯

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“THE VÉLOMARITIME CYCLE ROUTE PASSES MANY OF NORMANDY’S MAJOR LANDMARKS, INCLUDING MONT- SAINT-MICHEL AND THE D-DAY LANDING BEACHES”

Mont-Saint-Michel is one of Normandy’s

IMAGE © SHUTTERSTOCK IMAGE most compelling sights

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I’ve always loved the way France breathes new life into atmospheric old buildings, from episcopal palaces to industrial premises. In stylish , a short drive east of Cabourg, an old Franciscan monastery has morphed into Les Franciscaines Museum to house a museum, auditorium and media library. Expect five thematic zones, all linked to Deauville and its history, as well as paintings donated by artist André Hambourg. Of course Normandy isn’t just about coast and countryside, and 2021 offers a chance to get beneath the surface of some local industries too – sometimes literally. The Souterroscope slate mine at Caumont-sur- Aure, 35km from Caen, hasn’t been worked for over a century but visitors can don a hard hat and head 30 metres below ground on a journey of discovery. One of the four underground rooms has recently been renovated with the latest museum technology and includes an extraordinary collection of giant crystals and semi-precious stones. PEDALLING AND PAINTING Above: Unwinding over a drink on the terrasse in the delightful Or step into the lives of the coal miners at Le Clean air and open spaces will attract many visitors to port town of Honfleur Molay-Littry, where the Musée de la Mine reopens this Normandy this summer and for those who like to year with a wealth of new exhibits including models, explore on two wheels, the launch of the Vélomaritime machinery and a replica mining gallery. cycle route will be particularly welcome. Stretching for Something a little more contemporary? Then head to 870 miles, it runs along the coast from Roscoff in Vire where tableware manufacturer La Maison Brittany through Normandy to Dunkirk in Northern Degrenne has launched 90-minute guided tours of the France, and is now fully signposted. Take your own production facility, finishing up in the factory shop bikes over on the ferry or hire some locally. where you can buy cutlery, crockery and kitchenware. This scenic cycle way passes many of Normandy’s Also at Vire, the art and history museum has been major landmarks, including Mont-Saint-Michel and the AD PAGE completely revamped to show the transformation of D-Day landing beaches, chic Deauville and the the town from the Middle Ages through to its picturesque old harbour at Honfleur. Hop off your bike reconstruction after World War II. to visit Fécamp, home of Benedictine liqueur and a ❯❯

A TASTE OF NORMANDY

From left: The sumptuous home of Benedictine in Fécamp; you’ll fall in love with romantic Neufchâtel cheese; you’re in the heart of cider country in Normandy

With offshore waters rich in fish and APPLES AND PEARS Follow the BOUDIN NOIR Black pudding is and street food at various coastal shellfish, and verdant countryside for picturesque Route du Cidre across the speciality of the Perche and in towns in autumn. Look out for grazing cattle and sheep, Normandy the Calvados countryside around particular, the pretty market town of Coquilles Saint-Jacques de Normandie offers the best of land and sea. , through enchanting Mortagne where every retailer has on menus, the native variety with a villages. Meet producers and buy his own recipe and the annual Foire Red Label quality badge. CHEESE Visit the Maison du cider, pommeau (apple liqueur) and au Boudin brings fans from far and Camembert for the story behind calvados (apple brandy) as well wide. Watch out for members of the BENEDICTINE In 1863, a Fécamp this iconic cheese, first produced as farm-fresh apple juice. Visit the confrérie, or brotherhood, in their wine merchant found a lost recipe at Camembert in 1791 www. Calvados Experience at the oldest ceremonial robes. created by Benedictine monks in the maisonducamembert.com calvados distillery, Père Magloire, early 16th century, recreated the Normandy’s other cheeses are equally at Pont-l’Évêque www.calvados- SCALLOPS Port-en-Bessin and drink, and commissioned a flamboyant delicious. Try Livarot, Pont-l’Évêque experience.com Look out too for Dieppe are Normandy’s largest scallop turreted mansion in its honour. A tour and, for a romantic dinner, the pear cider or poiré, especially around fishing ports, but this king of shellfish is of the lavish interior ends, of course,

IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON © GILLIAN IMAGES irresistible heart-shaped Neufchâtel. Barentan in the . celebrated with music, entertainment with a dégustation.

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AD PAGE fascinating fisheries museum, as well as the chalk cliffs “GIVERNY IS JUST ONE at Étretat, painted by Claude Monet, perhaps the most revered of all the Impressionist artists. UNMISSABLE STOP ON THE Monet’s glorious garden at Giverny attracts visitors from across the globe so this could be a good year to NEW LONG-DISTANCE CYCLE experience its colourful borders and tranquil lily pond ROUTE, LA SEINE À VELO” without the usual crowds. You can see how other Impressionists, such as Renoir and Pissarro, tackled floral subjects at the Impressionist Gardens Exhibition, One tower, an obelisk, houses the machinery for the which is running until November 1 at Giverny’s Musée footbridge, while the other offers a panoramic view of des impressionnismes. Giverny is just one unmissable the estuary. A restaurant overlooking the yacht stop on the new long-distance cycle route, La Seine à harbour is also scheduled. Velo, which launched this spring. Eventually it will run Many people have discovered the joys of cycling in Clockwise from top: The gardens at Giverny, immortalised for 430km between Paris and the Normandy coast at recent years thanks to the rise of e-bikes, but the latest by Claude Monet; the handsome Le Havre and Deauville, passing many places thing in Normandy is the fat bike, an electric bike with Jumièges Abbey; relaxing on the immortalised by the Impressionists, such as Rouen, thick tyres which provides visitors with a leisurely tour quayside at Honfleur Jumièges Abbey and Honfleur. around Omaha Beach. Two legs or two wheels, no Deauville, meanwhile, boasts new twin towers, 27 visitor should miss the immaculate American Cemetery metres high, which mark the transition between the and Visitor Centre, set in landscaped gardens on the town centre and the new peninsula area of La Touques. cliff above the beach.

OUTDOOR PURSUITS Away from the coast, Normandy’s quiet countryside is perfect, whether you want to get seriously sporty, potter around on foot, or drive between bijou villages. Six are classified amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Go rock climbing, kayaking and paragliding at Clécy in the Suisse Normande, Normandy’s upland region where the Orne cuts through a rocky massif south of Caen, or follow one of the family-friendly walking trails. For inspiration, head to the visitor

IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK, GILLIAN THORNTON GILLIAN © SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAGES centre at La Roche d’Oëtre, west of Falaise. ❯❯

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12 ESSENTIAL VISITS IN NORMANDY For more Our pick of the must-see towns, historic buildings and other places of interest places to see in Normandy go to www.normandy- tourism.org

HONFLEUR BAYEUX CAEN GRANVILLE Impossibly pretty with an inner harbour An embroidery on linen rather than a This is the home town of William This busy harbour with a fortified fringed by houses up to seven storeys tapestry, this 11th-century stitching tells the Conqueror, who was born at upper town on the west coast of high, Honfleur has a fine arts museum the story of William of Normandy’s Falaise Castle and built his own ducal Manche became a fashionable resort named after Monet’s mentor, Eugène invasion of England in stunning detail. castle here. He is buried in the Men’s in the 19th century. Les Rhumbs, the Boudin who was born here, as was Erik Don’t miss the Gothic cathedral or the Abbey. The Mémorial de Caen on the childhood home of Christian Dior, is Satie. Check out the wooden church of Commonwealth Cemetery with nearby outskirts is a museum to peace told now a museum hosting a different Sainte Catherine. Journalists’ Cemetery. through the 20th-century conflicts. exhibition each year. www.honfleur-tourism.co.uk www.bayeuxmuseum.com www.memorial-caen.fr www.musee-dior-granville.com

Normandy also boasts four Regional Natural Parks. “DOTTED WITH PRETTY In the south of the region, the Normandy-Maine Regional Natural Park comprises the Andaines and VILLAGES, THIS TRANQUIL Écouves forests and includes historic Domfront, with AREA IS HOME TO THE its ruined medieval castle, and the pretty spa town of ARROMANCHES MONT-SAINT-MICHEL D-DAY BEACHES HARAS DU PIN Bagnoles-de-l’Orne. Find out more at the Maison du PERCHERON DRAFT HORSE” You don’t need to be a fan of military The most visited National Monument From the Merville-Franceville Built for Louis XIV, ‘The Versailles Parc at Carrouges. history to be awed by the remaining outside of Paris, this famous island battery and , through of the Horse’ is amongst the most To the east, the Perche Regional Natural Park has sections of floating Mulberry Harbours topped by an abbey is impressive Arromanches and Pointe du Hoc to impressive of France’s national become a favourite with both Parisian and British hedgerow landscape, a haven of biodiversity and that litter the beach at Arromanches from any angle, but especially from the British-owned Maisy Battery and network of stud farms. Enjoy guided weekenders for its slow-food culture, traditional crafts birding that can be discovered in the Maison du Parc at and rest in a tranquil arc offshore. the seabed at low tide. But never go Sainte-Mère-Église, each site has its tours of the grounds and stables and antiques shops. Dotted with pretty villages and Carentan. And it’s all just a stone’s throw from the open Discover the story at the fantastic it alone. Join a guided tour to avoid own story to tell. Be sure to walk those plus displays of native Percheron on museum on the promenade. incoming tides and quicksand. wide golden sands too. Humbling stuff. summer Thursdays. E-bike hire. small towns like La Perrière and Bellême, this tranquil sands and D-Day museum at Utah Beach, as well as Clockwise from top: Colouful www.arromanches-museum.com www.cheminsdelabaie.com www.maisybattery.com www.haras-national-du-pin.com buildings in Domfront; brace area is home to the impressive Percheron draft horse. pretty Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, which was voted yourself for serious house-envy Find out about carriage drives and other activities at France’s Favourite Village in 2019. on the Thatched Cottage Trail; the Maison du Parc in the grounds of the Manoir de Making up the quartet of parks is the Boucles Bagnoles de l’Orne Courboyer. And don’t miss the equine residents of the (meanders) of the Seine Regional Natural Park, which Haras national du Pin stud. stretches for 112 miles between Rouen and Honfleur. Stretching between the east and west coasts of The name Seine comes from the Latin word sequana, Manche, the Cotentin and Bessin Marshes Regional which means ‘meandering’. Stop off at ruined abbeys Natural Park is an area of wetland and bocage, or like Jumièges to walk amongst atmospheric stones that have inspired artists from Turner to Corot. Follow the Fruit Trail, which stretches 62km from Notre-Dame-de-Bliquetuit, and cycle and picnic amongst orchards of cherries and plums, berries, ROUEN FALAISE CASTLE LE HAVRE AVRANCHES apples and pears – it’s glorious adorned with spring Rouen was loved by Monet and other William the Conqueror was born on Rebuilt after World War II by architect This hilltop town has views to Mont- blossom, and you can pick up fruit from the farm gate Impressionists for its beautiful old this site, although the current castle Auguste Perret, it is now listed by Saint-Michel and is home to the when in season. town around Notre-Dame Cathedral. was largely built by his son. Medieval UNESCO. Visit the Perret show flat; Scriptorial, a surprisingly interesting Or if you prefer, take the Thatched Cottage Trail Don’t miss the Gothic belfry; museum history springs vividly to life with the Saint Joseph Church; and the Museum museum of medieval manuscripts. across the Marais-Vernier marshland. But be warned! dedicated to Joan of Arc; and the Fine help of modern technology, including of Modern Art André Malraux, with A stone pillar in a green space The half-timbered cottages with irises on the ridge are Arts Museum with paintings from the room reconstructions on tablets. the second-largest Impressionist marks the spot where Henry II was guaranteed to instil serious house envy. But of course, 15th century to present day. www.chateau-guillaume- collection outside Paris. pardoned for Becket’s murder.

FT CDT ORNE THORNTON, GILLIAN © SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAGES IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK, GILLIAN THORNTON GILLIAN © SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAGES that’s all part of the pleasure. www.rouentourisme.com leconquerant.fr www.lehavre-etretat-tourisme.com www.scriptorial.fr ❯❯

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WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN NORMANDY

As well as the famous D-Day beaches, there are outdoor adventures, festivals galore and beautiful villages For more things to do in Normandy go to www.normandy- tourism.org WAR AND PEACE The British Normandy Memorial at Ver-sur-Mer in Calvados opens to visitors after inauguration on June 6 www.normandymemorialtrust. org. Over in Manche, the Airborne Museum at Sainte-Mère-Église near Utah Beach has a new space dedicated to parachutists and aerial combat www.airborne-museum.org. The Mémorial de Caen includes a good overview on the Battle of Normandy and offers specialist tours of key sites (www.memorial-caen.fr).

The Mémorial de Caen is a good place to It’s safest to walk across to Mont-Saint-Michel in a guided group to avoid high tides and other dangers learn about the Battle of Normandy the beach resort of Veules-les- AD PAGE Download the Medieval Roses (Seine-Maritime); Lyons-la- Normandy visitor guide from Forêt (Eure); Le Bec-Hellouin www.normandie-tourisme.fr for with its half-timbered houses (Eure); sites connected with iconic figures Beuvron-en-Auge in the Pays such as William of Normandy, Richard d’Auge apple region (Calvados); the the Lionheart and Joan of Arc. medieval port of Barfleur (Manche); and the painters’ paradise of Saint- SPORTS ACTIVITIES Céneri-le-Gérei (Orne). CYCLING Vélomaritime www. lavelomaritime.com; La Seine à Vélo FESTIVALS AND EVENTS www.laseineavelo.fr; and Fatbike to JUNE D-Day commemorative discover Omaha Beach www.eolia- events will be held all along the normandie.com coast on June 6; Romantic film WATERSPORTS Cherbourg hosts festival, Deauville. JULY Medieval the finish of the iconic biennial Rolex Domfront, with its medieval castle ruins, is in the Normandy-Maine Regional Natural Park Festival, Bayeux; Son-et-lumière, Fastnet Race for the first time Falaise. AUGUST Mackerel festival, www.rolexfastnetrace.com. New Franciscaines Museum, Deauville, ANIMALS AND NATURE Trouville-sur-Mer; Medieval Festival, watersports activity centre, Le Cano, www.lesfranciscaines.fr. La Villa du New garden classified Jardin Crèvecoeur-en-Auge and Falaise. at Ouistreham www.centre-activites- Temps Retrouvé (Marcel Proust Remarquable www.jardinsalbizia. SEPTEMBER American Cinema nautiques-ouistreham.fr Museum), Cabourg www.cabourg.fr com. Children in tow? Don’t miss Festival, Deauville (3-12); Shrimp Guy Degrenne factory tours Champrépus Zoo www.zoo- Festival, Honfleur. OCTOBER NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS at Vire www.degrenne.fr Musée champrepus.com and the new farm Les Equidays, equestrian events Bicentenary of Gustave Flaubert, de la Mine www.ville-molay-littry. animal collection at Domaine de throughout Calvados. especially around his home town fr and the Souterroscope des Ouézy www.ferme-pedagogique.fr. All details correct at time of going to of Rouen www.flaubert21.fr Ardoisières www.souterroscope- View the Cotentin marshland press – please check before you travel Impressionist Gardens Exhibition ardoisieres.fr on a new electric boat tour www. for the latest. ❯❯ (April 1 – Nov 1) www.mdig.fr Les decouvertemarais.com from GREAT OUTDOORS Carentan-les-Marais. And explore the All kinds of adventure sports are on oceans through L’Océan du futur, offer in Normandy’s rugged upland which opened in 2019 at Cité de region, the Suisse Normande la Mer in Cherbourg – it boasts 17 www.ornetourisme.com. For the aquariums and 18 interactive spaces. four Regional Natural Parks, visit: www.citedelamer.com www.parc-naturel-perche.fr; www. parc-naturel-normandie-maine.fr; BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES Normandy has plenty to offer for outdoorsy www.pnr-seine-normande.com; and Six Norman villages are classified Les The picturesque Veules-les-Roses, one of

IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON © GILLIAN IMAGES types, whether on land or water www.parc-cotentin-bessin.fr Plus Beaux Villages de France: France’s Plus Beaux Villages

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For more hotels WHERE TO STAY AND EAT IN NORMANDY and restaurants, visit www.francetoday. Our choice of hotels and restaurants to make your trip even more pleasurable com/food-and- drink-france

HOTELS from Matthieu’s brother at La 5* Hôtel Le Saint-Delis, Honfleur Crémerie des Baratineurs. New Relais & Château hotel in former Pâtisseries are a speciality. home of painter Henri de Saint-Delis, www.restaurant-lavraievie.fr part of Le Havre Fauve Group of artists. Three interconnected houses La Voile Blanche, Ouistreham from 17th century with nine elegant Opened in summer 2020 above the rooms, each with steam shower and Accostage restaurant and specialising some with balneotherapy bath. in fish and shellfish. Eat indoors or on www.hotel-saint-delis.fr the shady terrace with glorious views over the beach. www.lavoileblanche-ouistreham.fr

L’Aigue Marine, Villers-sur-Mer New bistro and wine bar opened by the owner of La Villa d’Eaux. Dine in Hotel du Tribunal in Mortagne offers both hotel and gourmet restaurant on local produce from sea and land, 3* Hôtel du Tribunal, Mortagne lake, camellias and rhododendrons. or take away a picnic. Boutique hotel and gourmet There is also a gîte sleeping five. www.laiguemarine.fr Le Saint-Delis in Honfleur was once home to artist Henri de Saint-Delis restaurant in adjoining properties from www.chateaudechantore.com 16th and 18th centuries in heart of La Contremarche, Granville 4* Les Jardins de Coppelia, the Perche Regional Natural Park Maison Maleyrand, Built into the walls of the 19th- Honfleur www.hotel-tribunal.fr Mortagne-au-Perche century fish market in the historic New hotel with 27 rooms and suites, New B&B in period town house upper town. Local seasonal produce. all individually decorated, in manor CHAMBRES D’HÔTES restored to 18th-century glory. www.lacontremarche.fr house or garden annexe close to the Le Castel Saint-Léonard, Falaise Original Louis XV features. Three pool. Reserve by digital tablet for the New owner Charles Vatinel has double en-suite rooms furnished gastronomic restaurant and spa. refurbished the downstairs salons and with rare objets d’art. www.jardins-coppelia.com three bedrooms of this late 18th- www.maisonmaleyrand.com century château in stunning Siècle des 4* Le Paquebot, Lumières style. RESTAURANTS Decorated in Art Deco style, each www.castelsaintleonard.com La Vraie Vie, Caen of the 16 rooms or ‘cabins’ has a sea Small restaurant run by Parisian- view and terrace at this new hotel Ô Saisons, Ô Châteaux, trained chefs Elodie and Matthieu, in Villerville, classified as a Calvados Mézidon-Canon opened November 2019. Emphasis on La Vraie Vie in Caen puts the emphasis on Character Village. Dine in the Five bedrooms in U-shaped château, organic, local ingredients with cheese organic, local ingredients restaurant or enjoy a seafood platter which is a classified Monument in your cabin. Historique, built in the 18th-century NORMANDY ESSENTIALS www.lepaquebot.fr between Caen and . Partial private hire is an option. GETTING THERE 2* Le Clos Normand, www.osaisons-ochateaux.com BY FERRY Saint-Aubin-sur-Mer to Cherbourg, Caen- Reopened in April after a complete La Rose de Ducey, Ducey-les-Chéris Ouistreham or Le Havre, and from Normandy refurbishment by the new owners. Stylish 19th-century property in village Poole to Cherbourg with Brittany Panoramic beach view from all rooms. close to Mont-Saint-Michel. Two guest Ferries (www.brittany-ferries. Gourmet bistro cuisine and extensive bedrooms, plus an enclosed garden co.uk). Newhaven to Dieppe with cocktail menu. stocked with roses. DFDS Seaways (www.dfds.com) www.closnormandhotel.com www.gites-de-france-manche.com BY TRAIN Le Relais d’Horbé, La Perrière Château de Chantore, Bacilly Regular services from Paris Newly opened near Bellême in the Two suites and three bedrooms in Gare Saint-Lazare and Gare Perche Regional Natural Park with elegant 18th-century château close to Montparnasse www.ter.sncf.com/ four individually decorated suites Avranches. Large wooded park with normandie and three bedrooms. Seasonal menu. Private garden, craft shop, and deli. BY AIR www.lerelaisdhorbe.fr Normandy is surrounded by three FIVE DEPARTMENTAL international airports – Paris TOURIST BOARDS Château Saint-Gilles, Guéron Charles de Gaulle, Paris Orly, www.calvados-tourisme.com Close to Bayeux, an 18th-century and Nantes International. www.manchetourisme.com property with 22 bedrooms, studios, www.ornetourisme.com and apartments set in extensive USEFUL WEBSITES www.eure-tourisme.fr parkland. Facilities for cyclists. Breakfast at the 18th-century Château de www.normandy-tourism.org www.seine-maritime-tourisme.com

IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON © GILLIAN IMAGES www.chateau-saintgilles-bayeux.com Chantore is a stylish affair

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