I Like the Lentils Best When the Aromatics, the Carrots, Onions and Fennel (If Using)

The Cheapest Caviar in the World

If I told you that there was a caviar you can buy for less than 3€ ($3.50) per pound, you would say, "David, you're crazy!"

Well call me fou. But lentilles de Puy, the French green lentils from the Auvergne, are not called 'the caviar of lentils' for nothing.

I'm sure many of your out there lie awake at night, thinking, "Hmmm, I wonder if there really is any different between ordinary green French lentils and lentilles de Puy?"

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I will save you a sleepless night and say, "Yes!"…there is.

Lentils from Puy are indeed the most special lentils in the world and I'm one of their biggest fans. Their special flavor is attributed to the volcanic soil they're grown in, without fertilizer, which gives them their fine, mineral-rich taste. The climate in the Auvergne also contributes to their special taste: a lack of humidity and abundant sunshine, courtesy of the surrounding mountains and volcanic deposits, ensures that the lentils dry on the plant all by themselves. Consequently lentilles de Puy have less starch than other green lentils, so they don't get all mushy and gross when cooked (like those Moosewood soups people used to make), and have a very pleasing nutty flavor.

So how does one know if they have real lentilles de Puy or just plain French green lentils? It's simple; look for the AOC seal on the package, which certifies they're truly lentilles de Puy, and not tiny, disk-shaped, vastly-inferior impostors. And don't be tempted to buy the less-expensive, ordinary French green lentils which cost about a third of the price. Believe me, there's no comparison. Been there, done those lentils.

I always keep a bag of lentils from Puy in my pantry since they can be prepared really quickly and they're equally good served warm or at room temperature, and actually improve if made a bit in advance. They make a great accompaniment to everything from grilled fish to roast pork, or even a vegetarian dinner alongside baked butternut squash or roasted root vegetables. But I often prepare these lentils as a meal in itself by mixing in chunks of fresh, crumbly goat cheese along with a handful of toasted hazelnuts then finishing it with a fragrant drizzle of extraordinarily good toasted hazelnut oil.

Salad of Lentilles de Put

I like the lentils best when the carrots, onions and fennel are sautéed in olive oil until just-tender then mixed into the warm lentils along with the vinaigrette. But you can also simmer them along with the lentils if you want to save a step (and cleaning an extra pan).

Be sure to use very good olive oil for the vinaigrette: yes, it does make a difference! No cheating. I use Spanish arbequina oil that's fruity and really quite delicious. Since les lentilles de Puy lend themselves to so many variations, I've included a few at then end of the recipe for you to improvise with.

For the lentils: 1¼ cup (250 gr) French green lentilles de Puy 1 bay leaf a few springs of fresh thyme salt 1 carrot, peeled and finely diced 1 medium onion, peeled and finely diced 1 bulb of fennel (optional), finely diced freshly-ground pepper

For the vinaigrette: 1 tablespoon red wine or sherry vinegar 1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil 1/8 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 small shallot, peeled and minced

Rinse the lentils and remove any foreign matter. Transfer the lentils to a large saucepan, about 6 quarts (6 liters), then cover with a copious amount of water, which should cover the lentils by at least 3-4 inches. Add the bay leaf and thyme.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat, add a bit of salt, and simmer for 20-25 minutes, until the lentils are just tender, adding more water if necessary. Be sure not to overcook them.

While the lentils are cooking, heat a few spoonfuls of olive oil in a skillet and add the carrots, onions, and fennel (if using). Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently until tender. Set aside.

In a large bowl, mix together the ingredients for the vinaigrette.

When the lentils are done, drain them well, then toss them in the vinaigrette with the cooked vegetables. Stir a few times to release the steam. Taste, and season with more salt, pepper, and olive oil if desired. Remove bay leave and thyme sprigs.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cooked lentils will keep in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. They can be reheated in a pan on the stovetop or in a microwave.

Some other ideas:

Dress the lentils with less vinaigrette and omit the mustard. When the lentils are cool, dress them right before serving with a very, very good-quality walnutor hazelnut oil and a handful of toasted nuts.

Once cool, add a big handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley and more fresh thyme or savory.

Add other root vegetables, like celery root or parsnips. Oven roast cubes of them in olive oil with salt and pepper until browned, then add them with the vinaigrette.

Add morsels of cooked, smoky bacon.

Stir a spoonful of duck fat into the warm lentils. Crumble coarse chunks of fresh goat cheese into the room temperature lightly-dressed lentils. This is particularly good drizzled with walnut or hazelnut oil.

Although they're available in many specialty shops, my favorite source in Paris for lentilles de Puy (and all grains) is from José Ferrés shop:

La Graineterie du Marché 8, Place d'Aligre Tél; 01 43 43 22 64 Open daily, except Monday

For US residents, French green lentils from Puy can also be mail ordered here or in specialty shops.