SITKA

NATIONAL

MONUMENT

ALASKA to give away or destroy large quantities of In that year he established the fortified ries, its flour and lumber mills, and its tan­ property. At feasts called potlatches, the post of St. Michael, about 6 miles north of neries were traded as far away as Spanish host would present to his guests valuable the present Sitka. In 1802 the Sitkas sur­ California and the Hawaiian Islands. articles such as blankets, canoes, sheets of prised the settlement and wiped out most of Baranof soon transferred the company's SITKA copper, and even slaves. Guests who could the Russian and inhabitants. The fort American headquarters to Sitka, which re­ not return gifts of equal value lost prestige. was completely destroyed. Its site is still mained the capital of until known as "Old Sitka." was purchased by the United States in NATIONAL MONUMENT 1867. It was the capital of the new American White Traders Battle of Sitka territory until the administration was moved Baranof determined to reestablish his col­ to Juneau in 1906. Here are commemorated the bravery and In the last quarter of the 18th century, ony, but it took 2 years to marshal sufficient ships from Spain, Britain, , and the resources at the company's headquarters on Features of the Monument the culture of Alaska's Indians. United States visited southeastern Alaska in . In 1804 he appeared off the ever-increasing numbers. Most of them were site of the present Sitka with a force of about SITKA FORT SITE. Shallow depressions now mark the foundations of the fort where the merchantmen trading with the natives for 150 Russian hunters and 800 , who Sitkas made their last stand against European sea otter skins. They found the Sitka area had made the long journey in their tiny skin conquest. This fort was burned by Baranof rich in furs. They also found that the Sitkas bidarkas. Here Baranof received an unex­ immediately after the Battle of Sitka. ITKA NATIONAL MONUMENT, smaller boats for fishing and for hunting were shrewd bargainers and dangerous ene­ pected reinforcement in the , a Russian THE TOTEM POLES. Within the monu­ located on , in South­ otters, seals, and porpoises. mies. Shore parties were in constant danger warship. ment is one of the finest exhibits of totem eastern Alaska, protects an outstanding villages were usually placed along of ambush and robbery; ship captains re­ The Sitkas awaited the attack in a position S poles in the world. These 18 poles were collection of Alaskan Indian totem poles and narrow sea beaches, for steep mountains and mained alert against seizure of their vessels atop Baranof Hill. But when they saw the part of the Alaska exhibit at the St. Louis preserves the historical values of the vicinity. dense forests pressed closely on the shores by the natives. strength arrayed against them, they retreated St. Michael's Cathedral. Courtesy Photo Shop, Exposition in 1904. At the end of the fair, Within the area are 18 totem poles of finest and left few open building sites. Houses, The presence of foreign traders in south­ to a stronger fort near the south boundary of Sitka. Gov. John Brady of Alaska, and others, suc­ native craftsmanship and the site of the fort made of planks, were generally large and eastern Alaska aroused the fears of the Rus­ the present Sitka National Monument. Here, ceeded in having them brought to Sitka for in which the Sitka Indians made their last served several families. sians, who had founded trading settlements behind thick log walls, they defied the Rus­ display at Indian River Park, which later be­ stand against the Russians. in the Aleutians and along the Alaska coast sian cannon, which did little damage. An The Russians then brought their guns came Sitka National Monument. Seventeen north of the "Panhandle." By 1799 sea assault, led by Baranof himself, was repulsed closer and settled down for a . After Totems and Arts of the totems were originally gathered from otters were growing scarce near the Russian by murderous fire; the Russians were for­ several days the Indians ran out of ammuni­ Sitka Indians old villages of the Haida Indians in southern posts, and Alexander Baranof, general man­ tunate to regain their ships with a loss of tion and, believing their cause to be hopeless, The Sitkas painted their family totems Alaska. One came from a Tsimshian Village. When European navigators first visited over the doors of their houses to symbolize ager of the Russian-American Co., decided about 10 men killed and 26 wounded. fled in the night and made their way to the The largest and most famous Alaska during the 1700's, they found the the Tlingit clan to which they belonged. to expand his settlements to the southward. Among the latter was Baranof. northeast side of the island. As a result of stands on the site of the old Sitka fort. This west coasts of Baranof and Chichagof Islands They did not display their totems on poles in this battle, the way was left open for the totem, called "Fog Women," belonged to inhabited by the Sitka Indians. These natives front of their houses as did the Haidas and development of Sitka, which became the Son-I-Hat, a Haida chief who lived at Old were a subdivision of the powerful Tlingit other Indians to the south. Sitka in 1869 during the period of U. S. Military occupation. center of Russian activities in the New Kasaan. It is 59 feet high, one of the tall­ group which occupied most of the coast and World. The were skillful carvers of wood est in the world, and has more carved figures islands of the Alaska "Panhandle." and stone. They worked copper, wove blan­ Growth of Sitka than any other Alaskan totem pole. Around The Tlingits were a vigorous, warlike kets from the hair of wild goats, and made it are four smaller "house" totems. people, shrewd and physically strong. Their beautiful baskets. They also fashioned Baranof at once reestablished his settlement The poles were not objects of religious main livelihood came from the sea, and they wooden boxes and elaborate ceremonial on the site of the present town. A fortified worship. They record family and tribal his­ were skillful boatmen. Their graceful masks. residence for the general manager and his tory, describe significant events, and are mon­ canoes, hollowed from logs, were sometimes Another phase of Tlingit culture was the officers was built on Baranof Hill, and by the uments to the fame or ill repute of outstand­ large enough to carry 60 persons, and were high valuation placed upon wealth, rank, and next spring eight substantial buildings and ing persons. Their carvings and paint tell used for travel and war. They also made prestige. A Tlingit won respect by his ability several gardens gave the place an air of pros­ of the earth's origin and the creation of cer­ perity. The post was officially named New tain fish, birds, and animals. The bright, Archangel, but it was generally known as contrasting colors were made from crushed The National Park System, of which this area is a unit, is dedicated to conserving the Sitka, after the Tlingit village which formerly rock, minerals, and clam shells mixed with scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United States for the benefit and enjoyment occupied the site. fish eggs as the binding agent. of its people. Sitka rapidly became a thriving industrial MERRILL PLAQUE. In 1934, the Ameri­ city. Products from its iron and brass found­ can Legion Post at Sitka dedicated a plaque at the monument entrance in memory of The Monument Elbridge W. Merrill, prominently associated A Presidential proclamation on June 21, with the National Monument in the years fol­ 1890, established the area as a public park; lowing its establishment. He was an artist, on March 23, 1910, it was proclaimed a lover of nature, and well-known photogra­ National Monument. Its 54 acres are cov­ pher of Alaskan scenes. He died in 1932. ered by a dense stand of second-growth INDIAN RIVER. Indian River, or Kolosh timber. The original forest was cut by Ryeku as it was called by the Russians, flows the Russians and bv American soldiers who through the monument. In former times the were stationed in Sitka after the transfer of SITKA annual salmon runs in this stream were spec­ Alaska to the United States. Footpaths tacular. During recent years, however, they through the monument lead into the heart of have diminished. an Alaska forest, with its towering stands of Sitka spruce and western hemlock. The forest NATIONAL Nearby Points of Interest floor is carpeted with ferns and moss, with spreading devilsclub and berry thickets. Sitka National Monument adjoins the town Large alders enhance the beauty along the of Sitka, which contains many points of his­ Indian River. toric interest. Baranof Hill, on which the MONUMENT general managers of the Russian-American About Your Visit Co. lived from 1804 to 1867, is near the Sitka The monument, which is open all year, is Post Office. On this hill the American flag within walking distance of downtown Sitka, was first raised over Alaska during the cere­ where hotel accommodations and taxi service mony marking the transfer of the territory to are available. The town can be reached by the United States on October 18, 1867. scheduled airline from Juneau, and, in sum­ St. Michael's Cathedral, built between 1848 mer, is a port of call for occasional passenger and 1850, still serves as a spiritual center of vessels. the in Alaska. In Administration it are ikons and other religious treasures from Sitka National Monument is administered Russia brought across the Siberian wilderness by the , U.S. Depart­ ALASKA and shipped to Sitka. ment of the Interior. For further informa­ The Alaska Pioneers' Home occupies the tion, write to the Superintendent, Sitka and site of the old Russian and American parade- Glacier Bay National Monuments, Box 1184, grounds. Back of the home is the first Rus­ Juneau, Alaska. sian cemetery. Crumbling marble slabs mark the graves of many persons prominent Mission 66 in Sitka's history. Farther on is the old Lu­ Mission 66 is a program designed to be theran cemetery where Princess Maksoutoff, completed by 1966 which will assure the wife of the last Russian chief manager, is maximum protection of the scenic, scientific, buried. wilderness, and historic resources of the Na­ Adjacent to the monument is the Sheldon tional Park System in such ways and by such Jackson Junior College. The museum here means as will make them available for the contains fine exhibits on Indian and Eskimo use and enjoyment of present and future culture and Alaska history. generations.

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR Fred A. Seaton, Secretary NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Conrad L. Wirth, Director

Reprint 1959 (Cover) Totem poles on Sitka fort site. U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1959—O-508125