Technical Paper Number 11 Summer 2002

ALASKA STATE MUSEUMS

t the end of the eighteenth subdued, and many were cruelly incorp- century, the was orated into Russian commercial activities Dressing well established on the North (Liapunova 1987). Some of the most complex Pacific coast, expanding eastward and dramatic Russian diplomatic initiatives Afrom along the Aleutian chain to the among Natives occurred in Southeast theHMain North American mainland. The Native Alaska, where the Indians resisted inhabitants of the northern Gulf of Russian domination. Here, diplomacy was Alaska-the (or Unangan) and critical to Russian success (Dean 1994). Alutiiq peoples-were won over or The Russians came to rely on Alaska Tlingit Natives as trading partners who supplied labor, furs, and food (Gibson 1987). In his 1862 report, Pavel Golovin of the Russian Chief" Navy reported that the Tlingit, or Kolosh, were "self-administered, in accordance with their own customs, and the [Russian- American] Company has only a very limited th authority over the ones who settle near our A 19 century redoubts or forts." Golovin added that "Whenever the Kolosh are in any way Kaftan and unhappy with the Russians ... they stop bringing in supplies to the market, and New Archangel suffers accordingly." Seen Tricorner as hostile, the Tlingit forced the Russians to devote precious resources to maintaining Hat from strong defenses. Golovin stated that" ... if they were to unite under the leadership of a brave chief, the Kolosh would easily Russian conquer our settlements and kill all the Russians" (Golovin 1979:27,31-2,38). America The Russians and their work parties of Aleut and Alutiiq, brought to to hunt sea otters, came under constant threat of attack from the Tlingit. Russian traders could not sustain a wholesale taking of Tlingit lands and resources by force; rather, they needed a certain degree of cooperation from them to turn a profit. Cooperation offered material reward to the Tlingit, but they would not allow By Steve Henrikson, the Russians to dictate the terms of the Curator of Collections, relationship. Diplomacy became an Alaska State Museum important and time consuming endeavor for both Russian and Tlingit leaders. Like the other colonial powers in North America, the Russians cultivated Native leaders with gifts-trade goods and special diplomatic TheSitka Kaftan and presents-that increased the wealth and Cocked Hat. ASM 94-2-1.94-39-1 status of the recipients. "Indian Presents" in North During their expansion into Asia plaques. I To court the Native nobility and Siberia, the Russian Empire in Southeast Alaska, the Russians also America and Siberia had similarly distributed presents to presented gifts derived from Native As Europe and the United States indigenous leaders, beginning as early design. Traditional symbols of wealth began their colonial expansion in North as the late 1500s. They treated the and power, such as copper plates- America, they greased the skids of Native elite to lavish feasts, plied them fashioned after the Tlingit's tin.aa diplomacy by distributing gifts to with promises and valuable gifts, and -and brass copies of traditional indigenous leaders. Trade goods, such sometimes gave them special ranks spruce root hats, were believed to as beads, utensils, and tobacco, were and titles. Friendly Native leaders appeal more to Tlingit tastes (Dean presented along with peace medals, became "best men," leading their 1995:290, Emmons nd:190). flags, and ornate coats, designed followers to hunt furs for the Czar specifically for diplomatic purposes. (Pierce 1988:119,Lantzeff 1943:93, Prucha (1988:239) notes that diplomatic Armstrong 1965:117). In the early 1700s, Clothing in Russian! Alaska gifts, unlike trade goods, symbolized Russian Orthodox the governments that presented them, rewarded baptized Native Siberians Native Diplomacy and "their acceptance signified special with Russian clothing and other Soon after contact, Russian traders ties of allegiance and friendship." presents (Slezkine 1994:48-49). recognized a high demand for Impressive ceremonies frequently In Alaska, Russian-American European clothing among Alaska accompanied the presentation of gifts, Company officials followed suit by Natives. The clothing brought for often involving an exchange of cloth- awarding a variety of diplomatic the Native trade consisted largely of ing by the leaders of both sides to gifts to Alaska surplus military uniforms or military symbolize the beginning of a Natives, including style garments. In 1782 the Unangan mutually beneficial trade relation- silver Souzznye (Aleut) leader Tyutgin received a red ship (Hanson 1982). Clothing Rossi! (Allies of coat with gold trim from a Russian in exchange was a ritual of ) medals exchange for a sea otter skin (Black Native/non-Native and bronze 1984:187). In 1788, explorers Ismailov diplomacy that existed until double-headed and Bocharov, visiting the Yakutat the latter had sufficient power eagle Tlingit, noticed their" ... caps, like those and will to abandon diplomacy of the grenadiers, with brass ornaments altogether. which they procure from the The gifts and ceremonies were Europeans" (Coxe 1803:326). In 1791, status symbols within Native explorers Alejandro Malaspina and societies, and they enabled the Etienne Marchand remarked that non-Natives to manipulate European clothing was in high demand Native power structure: the among Tlingit men at Sitka and most cooperative leaders were Yakutat (Emmons 1991:237). showered with gifts, increasing By the early 1800s, Russian trader their prestige and authority. The Kyrill T. Khlebnikov reported that the presents were symbolic to non- Sitka Tlingit had developed quite a Natives as well, Signifying to taste for fine clothing: other explorers that the Natives "In other colonies Aleutswear bird skin (and their lands) were claimed. parkas, which are warm, comfortable and Rivalry between colonial agents attractive. But on Sitka they want to have drove some to confiscate clothes made not of regular soldier cloth, competitors' gifts and replace but fromgood friezeor fine wool. Many them with presents of their own of them wear frockcoats and dress coats. (Prucha 1988:238-9). Their wiveswere formerlydelighted to have parkas of rodent fur and cotton kamleis ~ [kamleikas],but here they all want a printed cotton dress, a shawl, etc. Allof An undated illustration entitled this represents a style of luxury which is "A vokut" shows a Native of harmful both to them and to the colony" Northeastern Siberia (Dmytryshynand Crownhart-Vaughan wearing a kaftan with 1976:105). decorative trim and In 1827, Frederic Litke (1987:89) fringe-possibly a gift reported that to give Sitka Tlingit from Russian chiefs" ...one hundred rifleswould not administrators. give them as much pleasure as to give Dolgopolov Collection Russian uniforms to their elders, and once Portfolio. Alaska State the elders are dressed up in these uniforms, Library Historical Collection. they give themselves the most important Juneau . but very comical airs." Litke added that the Tlingit until they could identify another noticed immediately when the candidate (Kan 1999:123,Pierce Russian navy changed the style 1990: 274). of their uniforms, and "asked In 1842 Adolph Etholin, that all those uniforms that had Kupreianov's successor, iden- been given them previously tified a new leader worthy of should be remade so that they Imperial recognition: Shilxaku, would not be different than a Sitka Kiks.adi leader, who ours.'? had recently received the Following centuries-old esteemed name Kooxx'aan and practice in eastern Asia, the had been baptized Mikhail in Russians presented distinctive 1836. While Kooxx:'aan was suits of clothing to cooperative relatively inexperienced and chiefs in Alaska. In 1792, Gov. impoverished, he was prone to General Pil' of Irkutsk, on follow the Russians' advice and behalf of Empress Catherine the set a good example that other Great, presented Andreanof Tlingit could follow to complete Chief Sergei Dmitrievich their "conversion to humility" Pan'kov a special suit of (Dean 1993:359-60, Okunl95l: clothing marking his appoint- 209).4 Though Kooxx'aan was ment as intermediary between friendly toward the Russians, the Russian Government and and of noble birth, he had yet the Unangan. This flashy to solidify the backing of his ensemble consisted of a red clan. By honoring him with an woolen parka with gold trim, a imperial title, presenting a bright ~ pale blue velvet hat, and red and fanciful outfit as a badge of :tt,..~ '"~ ,.... goat leather boots (Sarychev .... ":~~~ office, and supporting him with 1802:124-125,translated by Black loans and a salary, the Russians The Sitka Kaftan (detail). Gold metallic braid is applied to hoped to thrust greatness upon 1984:95,188). To leaders of the front opening, and the neck is outlined with silver the Sitka Tlingit, Alexsandr metallic fringe. The front of the Sitka Kaftan is closed with this potentially influential leader Baranov, chief manager of the ornate toggles, decorated with gold thread and pearls. (Kan 1999:122-4, Dean 1995:283- Russian-American Company, ASM94-39-7 290). presented special clothing in a In 1843 Governor Etolin peace ceremony following the reported the appointment of 1804 Battle of Sitka. A red cloak on a Tlingit leader (Tikhmenev Mikhail Kooxx'aan as "Main Sitka trimmed with ermine and plain blue 1978:355).Along with the title came Tlingit Chief" -Glavnyi Sitkhinskii cloaks went to a Tlingit ambassador an ornate kaftan, plumed tricorner Koloshenskii Toien- and presented a and his lieutenants. Reciprocating a hat, and sword (Kimball 1984:232). "gold embroidered kaftan, a sabre, gift of an ermine-trimmed blue cloak The Russians hoped that this unpre- and a tricornered hat with multi- and tobacco, the Kiks.adi clan leader cedented recognition of a Tlingit chief colored plumes" (Kimball 1984:232-3, .K'alyaan (Katlian) gave Baranov a would encourage friendly behavior Tikhmenev 1978:355). Etolin presented "coverlet" of silver-grey fox skin from other leaders, even those outside the clothing to Kooxx:'aan in the (Lisiansky 1968:224,230). his own clan.' governor's house, and administered the In the late 1830s, Governor Ivan oath of office in the cathedral, in the Kupreianov selected Kuaxte of the presence of Bishop Innocent (roann Stikine Tlingit at Wrangell to receive Veniaminov), company officials and "Garbed like a Prince": the title of "Main Tlingit Chief." In employees, and a party of baptized addition to the title, the chief was to (Dean 1993:361 and 1994a).5 Dressing the "Main Tlingit Chief" receive the clothing, costing over 1,000 In accepting the title and ceremonial Maintaining good relations with rubles, and company employees were garments, Kooxx:'aan, a Tlingit elite. the Tlingit was challenging for the to doff their caps and bow whenever with traditional obligations, stepped Russians throughout their tenure in they came upon the chief wearing into the Russians' world. With the title Alaska. In the late 1830s, to broaden his special outfit-a remarkable came respect and privilege to a degree their influence, they sought a cooper- gesture of respect. Before he could never before shown by the Russians to ative clan leader to serve as an official convey the title and clothing, however, a Tlingit leader. As a mediator between intermediary, as they had done among Kupreianov learned that Kuaxte had two strong traditions, Kooxx:'aan the Unangan a half-century earlier. recently committed murder-not the certainly suffered the stress of being Tsar Nicholas I confirmed the imperial example of good behavior the Russians pulled in two directions. If the Russians title Glavnyi Koloshenskii Toien, or sought. Thus, they postponed the had expected Ko029c'aan to wield "Main Tlingit Chief," to be conferred presentation of the title and clothing authority beyond his own house and clan-in Fold encountered the contradiction to elderly "Main Tlingit Tlingit custom- Chief:" they were surely "The old chief called on us a few disappointed. Russian documents days since. He is about ninety years old ... suggest that he failed to influence He was dressed in a coat made of some gay events in favor of the company, and material and fashioned after the pattern of a gentleman's dressing gown. He had a hat ultimately the Russians discontinued with a cockade; a sash, belt and sword and the policy of commissioning "Main was a very tidy looking old gentleman" Chiefs" among the Tlingit (Kan (Davis 1985:75). 1999:123, Dean 1993:362-5,592).6 His Russian sponsors gone, Mikhail While he did not fully meet the Kooxx'aan died in 1868 (Pierce 1990:276), Russians' expectations, Kooxx'aan and at the funeral of "Prince Nicholas" faithfully attended ceremonial and (possibly Kooxx'aan), "a general's diplomatic functions and cocked hat and a Russian sword participated in formal receptions at Front were laid on the coffin" (Teichmann the chief manager's residence in 1963:235). Sitka. Heinrich Iohan Holmberg After his death, Kooxx'aan's (1985:65), visiting garments and artifacts Sitka in 1850-51, Fol ----/;Fo;;;;;"--_ became heirlooms. Fr. noted that: Anatolii Kamenskii, a Sitka "I found a true friend priest from 1895 to 1897, in Chief Schilghikhu ... describes Russian artifacts At baptism, he had been named preserved by the Tlingit: Michael, a name which, because it is short, u •••several silver medals and other I shall use ... Michael, because he was the decorations have been preserved, e.g., a most influential chief of the Sitka Tlingit, tsar's caftan with a cocked hat, similar to was given a golden embroidered cape, a those still awarded to native chieftains in dagger, and a tricorner hat by the Russian Siberia, a small copper cannon, a similar Administration. He wore this outfit to all shield, a double-headed eagle weighing festive occasions within the fort, even when about ten pounds, etc. ... The Tlingit attending a guest dinner at the governor's." consider these objects priceless. One could In 1860, naval officer Pavel Golovin hardly buy them with money. They could (1983:82-83) was introduced to only be coaxed with promises of great Kooxx'aan in the chief manager's rewards and honors. American tourists, residence in Sitka: who visit Sitka in the summer, are as fond "Then a teton, or elder, appeared before of these artifacts as the Indians ...hence us ... This toion wore a ceremonial caftan they tried many times to coax these or robe. His name is Mikhailo; he is a TheSitka Kaftan (ASM 94-39- 7). Uniess certificates and decorations from the baptized Indian. He does not speak otherwise indicated. pattern iinesrepresent Indians, but none of their attempts have Russian, but is completely loyal to us. He been successful" (Kamenskii 1985:37). edges or seams. and the decorative edging th was fully aware of his position, and is omitted for clarity. When worn with the In the 20 century, the Kiks.adi clan presented himself to us in full back toggles attached. a large gather of preserved the garments and their magnificence. He was clothed in a material is created. Perhaps this extra history. In 1946, Kiks.adl historian brocaded cloak with silver tassels and lace, yardage allowed the layering of clothing George Lewis recounted: a raspberry-colored silk sash with gold underneath the kaftan during cold weather. "At Redoubt Bay, the Russians had a fringe which cinched his belly, above the Overall length. including collar: 737.5 em. church and a flour mill. The mill was sash a naval sabre on a black thong, and in operated by water power. The Russians, his hands he held a small triangular hat Length of sleeve at fold: 66 em. Pattern by Janet Moss, however, recognized the Native ownership such as Frederick the Great used to wear, of this bay by giving the owner, Kooxx'aan, but with a tall plume of white, blue, rose, food and clothing. He was treated and yellow and black feathers. It is impossible garbed like a prince by the Russians. He to imagine anything more hilarious than think about what they wished to request of had Russian Cossacks at his disposal, just this figure. He entered very gravely, held us, since there is no need to disturb like a Russian prince who was in command out his hand to us, and from his inside important persons with silly speeches. Then of Redoubt Bay" (Goldschmidt and Haas pocket he took a certificate which had been he very gravely took his leave, shook our 1998:142). given to him by the Russian government hands, and with measured steps he left the testifying to the fact that he had been room." named a toion. Through an interpreter we Kooxx'aan continued his diplomatic A Russian Kaftan told him that he and all the rest of the duties even after the Russians elders and Indians could appear before us abandoned their colony in 1867. In if they had any business to discuss with us. and Hat from Sitka He replied that he was ve[r]y glad that we October of that year, Marietta Davis, While memory of the spectacularly- had come, and that he would transmit our wife of General Jefferson Davis, first garbed "Main Tlingit Chief" survived, words to the Indians, and they would then U.S. Army commander at Sitka, what became of the garments them- selves? In 1957 attire remarkably has Baranov presenting the clothing similar to that presented to Kooxx'aan following the Battle of 1804, and a appeared at a meeting of the Sitka contemporary Russian account con- Historical Society. Alfred Perkins Sr., firms that Baranov distributed clothing a local Tlingit, modeled a "fine coat, to Tlingit ambassadors on several which had red, green, blue and occasions. However, this clothing, yellow, gold and silver embroidery on "a handsome red cloak trimmed with the light ivory background," and ermine, and ... a common blue one" doffed a "handsome three-cornered (Lisiansky 1968:224) was very different hat which displayed purple plumes from the Perkins coat, with its "red, around and over the broad brim." green, blue and yellow, gold and silver Perkins stated that: Thecocked hat is made of fur felt and embroidery on the light ivory back- "This coat has been handed down for trimmed with gold metallic braid. with an ground." The Perkins garments seem many generations. It came to Sitka in embroidered eight-pointed star attached to more similar to the "gold embroidered 1804 with Baranov and then went back to one flap, Thefeathers shown are part of a kaftan" and "tricornered hat with Russia. In 1808 it came back to Sitka and Victorian period feather boa that was multicolored plumes" presented by has been here since that time. In 1867, added to the hat in the 20'h century. ASM Etholin to the Kiks.adi leader Mikhail upon the transaction of Alaska from 94-2-7 Russian to American hands, Baranov took Kooxx.'aan in late 1842 or the following offthe coat and hat and gave it to the man year (Kimball 1984:232).8 [a Kiks.adi leader! before Thomas Bennett. Used and displayed by members of Afterit was passed to Bennett it came in a peace ceremony atop "Castle Hill" ( the Kiks.adi clan for over a century, the the possession of Sanders I?] It was never Noow Tlein, or "Big Fort"), Baranov garments are now heavily worn and shown at any time...now my wife is taking removed the coat and hat he was very fragile. In 1994 the Alaska State care of the coat" (Sitka Historical Society wearing and placed them on the elder. Museum acquired the Sitka kaftan and 1957:1). Several other coats and gifts were hat as rare artifacts of 19th Century Alfred G. Perkins Ir. inherited the distributed to other elders. The RussianlNative diplomacy. They are kaftan and hat from his mother Mary highlight of the ceremony was the among the few articles of clothing that Perkins, and both were members of presentation of a double headed eagle survive from the Russian period in . the Kiks.adi Shteen Hit, or steel house. crest, a peace offering and token Alaska." He recited another version of the story payment for the Russians' acquisition A kaftan is a long coat with sleeves that he had learned from George of the Castle Hill site, where Baranov and a short collar, gathered in back Lewis, a Kiks.adi historian: Baranov built his fortified headquarters called and fastened in the front with a belt or presented the garments to a clan elder New Archangel (Perkins 1994).7 toggled closures. Russian laborers wore following the 1804 Battle of Sitka, Since Baranov died in 1819, he kaftans of wool or fur during cold when the Russian navy fought the could not have participated directly in weather until the mid-19th century Kiks.adi and reestablished a trading the transfer ceremony as reported in (Sichel 1986, Braun & Schneider 1975). headquarters on Sitka Sound. During the first account. The second account The garment originated in Asia, spread throughout the Middle current fashion, but to East, India, Persia, China make their hand-picked and Russian Asia, and Tlingit leader boldly was eventually stand out. In that introduced into Europe respect, their selection of by Mongolian and a bright yellow kaftan Ottoman invaders. The and feathered hat could pattern evolved into not have been better. many regional variations, Certainly no other both plain and ornate. person in Sitka, with the Middleton (1996:95) possible exception of the illustrates a coat worn Orthodox clergy, would by male laborers, drawn have stepped out with from Russian sources of such a fantastic the 1830s and 1840s, ensemble. Clothing was that closely matches the a status marker in both Thestar insignia isembroidered on several layers of old Russiandocuments, Tlingit and Russian Sitka kaftan. and several Cyrillic letters are visible. ASM 94-2-1 The Sitka kaftan is societies-and no other made of heavy silk cloth Tlingit dressed in the with bright paisley patterns, trimmed in the eighteenth and early nineteenth manner of Russian royalty. Given with gold and silver braid and fringe, centuries (Ribeiro 1984:31). Tricorners Kooxx'aan's limited wealth and with a silk facing and lining. Given the were also adopted by European authority, the sight of him wearing location of the seams on the main military forces between 1700 and 1756 his outfit probably elicited a mixed body of the garment, the silk cloth was (Knotel and Sieg 1980:6, 370-398). The reaction from other Tlingit, some of originally woven in widths of 45 Sitka tricorner hat is made of fur felt whom may have viewed him exceeding centimeters. While probably sewn in and trimmed with metallic braid, his station. Russia, some or all of the materials, resembling those seen in portraits of Unlike traditional Tlingit ceremonial such as the silk and metallic braid, Russian military officers of the 18th regalia, such as Chilkat robes and may have been imported. The kaftan is century through the first decade of the carved headdresses, the kaftan and hat closed in front and gathered in back by nineteenth century (Conrad 1994). It is were never adopted ornate toggled fasteners decorated with decorated on one side with an eight- or used as Kiks.adi at.6ow, or crest gold thread and pearls. The pointed star insignia, embroidered objects (Perkins 1994). Nonetheless, reinforcements for the toggles on the over several layers of Russian the fact that these fragile garments back are similar to the flaps on documents. Remnants of white outlived the Russians-carefully Russian military great-coats of the feathers remain sewn along the inside preserved by clan members for over period (Middleton 1999). of the hat's brim. A 20th century feather 150 years-confirms that, in spite The paisley and floral patterns'? boa was later attached by clansmen of the Russians' original intentions, are woven in green, red, and pink silk for added panache. they held high esteem as historical threads. The once bright yellow By the mld-Iv" century, both in the artifacts .• background has muted over time to a colonies and in Russian cities, Western dull ivory. The cloth may have been style dress was in vogue, and kaftans woven on a Jacquard loom, invented in were outmoded in everyday situations. France in 1801 and used widely in Combining a cocked hat (of relatively Europe during the early 19th century. recent European origin) with a Russian ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS However Madelyn van der Hoogt kaftan (an ancient style from Asia), (1995) feels that it was more likely was an anachronistic blending of East The work of historian Jonathan Dean woven on a hand loom. Regardless of and West. The "Main Tlingit Chief," proved critical in the authentication of the type of loom used, the paisley and dressed in a dazzling kaftan, was the kaftan and hat. The following floral details in the weave are uneven, perhaps emulating the Russian persons generously shared information aristocracy and royal family, who suggesting that it was woven at some and enthusiasm for this research: Joe distance from a weaving center, where at times dressed in archaic-style Ashby (Sitka Historical Society), Gary more regular and intricate designs garments while attending masquerades were accomplished. North Africa, and ceremonial occasions (Middleton Candelaria (), eastern Asia, or Russia itself are 1999). Mixing styles and periods, the Mark Conrad, Peter Corey (Sheldon possible sources (Carmel 1993, Mackie Sitka clothing is wonderfully symbolic Jackson Museum), Janna Lelchuk, Sue 1994). of the intermingling of cultural Thorsen (Sitka National Historical Park), traditions commonplace in the Alaska Cocked or tricorner hats (with brims John Middleton, David Rickman, and folded to form three corners) were colony. Barbara Smith. My sister,Janet Moss, popular in Europe, especially among The Russians' choice of garments middle and upper European classes, was calculated not to conform to contributed the kaftan pattern. ENDNOTES The Alaska State Museum preserves a . authority among his own people, Markov 8 With the passage of time, details of oral significant group of 19th century diplomatic (Kimball 1984) reported "Oh, with what traditions may change with successive presents given by Russian officials to Alaska importance at the end of the ceremony he did tellings. Both Native and non-Native Natives, including medals and certificates, a look upon his fellows, with what pride did he accounts of Sitka history tend to make bronze plaque of the czarist double-headed thoughtfully say to them, 'Obey me!' and with Baranov into an archetypal Russian leader, eagle, and the ornate kaftan (coat) and what envy did they silently answer him, 'We and credit him with many of the actions of his plumed tri-corner hat that is the subject of this will think about it.''' successors. Many Russian objects in private paper. hands originated in "Baranov's Castle"-far 6 Nearly a century before, the Russians had more material than ever would have fit in that similarly found that among the Siberians, 2 Khlebnikov (quoted in Fedorova 1973:229) structure. As for Tlingit history, Nora and titles such as "'main Samoed commander' noticed that the Tlingit "have European Richard Dauenhauer (l994:xx) report a clothing, and some very much, but wear it ... brought nothing but confusion and was "'mythologizing' tendency in many of the oral soon abolished," and "native elders [were] very seldom. Sometimes one sees three or four traditions that are now being passed down ... changes on the same person in one day." In totally ineffective outside of their extended Th is is a frustration for historians, but a field families." Yet the program was reintroduced 1837, after several visits by two Sitka chiefs, day for folklorists." explorer Francis Simpkinson noted that in Alaska and Siberia in the 1840s. In the "These two chiefs seemed to 1860s a Kolyma official, Baron Maidel', 9 A shirt of chain mail reportedly owned by have a great variety of dresses, as they introduced the rank of "The Highest Chief Alexander Baranov (and eventually given to a appeared in different ones every day. On one of All the Chukchi," and generally promoted Tlingit chief) is preserved by the National occasion, Naawushkeitl came on board very the authority of cooperative Chukchi clan Museum of American History, Smithsonian well attired. He had on a plaid cloak in very leaders; but "the heir to the Chukchi throne Institution (237848). The University of Alaska good condition, a coat of trousers with boots, inherited his father's crimson robe and Museum in Fairbanks holds a set of Russian and what was truly ridiculous, a new pair of medals but did not inherit his prestige." Orthodox priest'S vestments (dalmatic, cuffs, white cotton gloves. Where he got them from I By 1910 Russian officials concluded that their cope, cincture and stole) associated with cannot say, but 1 suppose from an American attempt to "create elders" was a failure Ioann Veniaminov (UA66-021-0001 thru - ship; he appeared rather awkward, as one (Slezkine 1994:69, 105-6). Interestingly, 0005). Other Orthodox vestments, some would imagine, in such a dress but was the Americans, following their purchase of probably dating to the Russian period, are enormously proud of it and particularly his Alaska in 1867, adopted tactics reminiscent of owned by various Russian Orthodox churches gloves" (Pierce and Winslow 1979:97). Russian practices. During a visit by the in Alaska. Sitka National Historical Park Chilkat Tlingit chief Shaadaxicht, preserves clothing fragments recovered from 3 Iohnathan Dean (1993:361,363 and 1994a) S. Hall Young recounted that the chief " ... the Kostromitinov House, built by the points out that the exact wording of the title was dressed in his robe of state, an elegant Russian-American Company in Sitka in 1835 itself is in some doubt, being referred to chinchilla blanket. He turned around in order (SITK 14436,7). Small clothing fragments inconsistently as "Main Kolosh Chief" and that we might read the inscription on the have been recovered from Russian "Main Sitka Kolosh Chief." The former title surface of his robe, and to our surprise we archaeological sites in Alaska and . implies that the Russians felt that this leader saw printed in black on the yellow the words, lo The primary paisley motif, the boteh, is a would have some influence or power over all 'To Chief Shathitch, from his friend, Wm. H. Tlingit, while the latter might limit authority to cone-shaped organic form with a curled end. Seward.' We learned afterwards that the great It is a stylized botanical form representing a the Tlingit of Sitka only. Dean believes that, Secretary of State on his visit to Alaska, soon while the Russians may not have fully floral spray, shoots of the date palm, or after its purchase, has visited the Chilkcats ... " cypress tree, that in some regions symbolizes understood the complexities of Tlingit society, (Young 1927:209). American military and they probably had no real expectations that the tree of life-a fertility symbol. Though the civilian authorities continued to promote the design originated in India, "Paisley" refers to Mikhail Kooxx'aan could assert much careers of certain cooperative Native leaders authority outside of Sitka. the English town that specialized in copying as Indian Police officers, and presented them Indian shawls for the European and American 4 According to James (1943:5), a chief named with uniforms, medals, and other markets. Kooth Kahn (sic) headed the Kiks.adi Copper accoutrements. Plate house (Tin.aa hit). 7 This is probably the bronze double-headed 5 Etholin reported that this event occurred eagle crest in the collection of the Alaska on December 6, 1842 (Pierce 1990:275). State Museum (Henrikson and Foster 1995:3- Reflecting the uncertainty of Kooxx'aan's 4).

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