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Tlingit Chief" -Glavnyi Sitkhinskii Cloaks Went to a Tlingit Ambassador an Ornate Kaftan, Plumed Tricorner Koloshenskii Toien- and Presented a and His Lieutenants

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Tlingit Chief Technical Paper Number 11 Summer 2002 ALASKA STATE MUSEUMS t the end of the eighteenth subdued, and many were cruelly incorp- century, the Russian empire was orated into Russian commercial activities Dressing well established on the North (Liapunova 1987). Some of the most complex Pacific coast, expanding eastward and dramatic Russian diplomatic initiatives Afrom Siberia along the Aleutian chain to the among Alaska Natives occurred in Southeast theHMain North American mainland. The Native Alaska, where the Tlingit Indians resisted inhabitants of the northern Gulf of Russian domination. Here, diplomacy was Alaska-the Aleut (or Unangan) and critical to Russian success (Dean 1994). Alutiiq peoples-were won over or The Russians came to rely on Alaska Tlingit Natives as trading partners who supplied labor, furs, and food (Gibson 1987). In his 1862 report, Pavel Golovin of the Russian Chief" Navy reported that the Tlingit, or Kolosh, were "self-administered, in accordance with their own customs, and the [Russian- American] Company has only a very limited th authority over the ones who settle near our A 19 century redoubts or forts." Golovin added that "Whenever the Kolosh are in any way Kaftan and unhappy with the Russians ... they stop bringing in supplies to the market, and New Archangel suffers accordingly." Seen Tricorner as hostile, the Tlingit forced the Russians to devote precious resources to maintaining Hat from strong defenses. Golovin stated that" ... if they were to unite under the leadership of a brave chief, the Kolosh would easily Russian conquer our settlements and kill all the Russians" (Golovin 1979:27,31-2,38). America The Russians and their work parties of Aleut and Alutiiq, brought to southeast Alaska to hunt sea otters, came under constant threat of attack from the Tlingit. Russian traders could not sustain a wholesale taking of Tlingit lands and resources by force; rather, they needed a certain degree of cooperation from them to turn a profit. Cooperation offered material reward to the Tlingit, but they would not allow By Steve Henrikson, the Russians to dictate the terms of the Curator of Collections, relationship. Diplomacy became an Alaska State Museum important and time consuming endeavor for both Russian and Tlingit leaders. Like the other colonial powers in North America, the Russians cultivated Native leaders with gifts-trade goods and special diplomatic TheSitka Kaftan and presents-that increased the wealth and Cocked Hat. ASM 94-2-1.94-39-1 status of the recipients. "Indian Presents" in North During their expansion into Asia plaques. I To court the Native nobility and Siberia, the Russian Empire in Southeast Alaska, the Russians also America and Siberia had similarly distributed presents to presented gifts derived from Native As Europe and the United States indigenous leaders, beginning as early design. Traditional symbols of wealth began their colonial expansion in North as the late 1500s. They treated the and power, such as copper plates- America, they greased the skids of Native elite to lavish feasts, plied them fashioned after the Tlingit's tin.aa diplomacy by distributing gifts to with promises and valuable gifts, and -and brass copies of traditional indigenous leaders. Trade goods, such sometimes gave them special ranks spruce root hats, were believed to as beads, utensils, and tobacco, were and titles. Friendly Native leaders appeal more to Tlingit tastes (Dean presented along with peace medals, became "best men," leading their 1995:290, Emmons nd:190). flags, and ornate coats, designed followers to hunt furs for the Czar specifically for diplomatic purposes. (Pierce 1988:119,Lantzeff 1943:93, Prucha (1988:239) notes that diplomatic Armstrong 1965:117). In the early 1700s, Clothing in Russian! Alaska gifts, unlike trade goods, symbolized Russian Orthodox missionaries the governments that presented them, rewarded baptized Native Siberians Native Diplomacy and "their acceptance signified special with Russian clothing and other Soon after contact, Russian traders ties of allegiance and friendship." presents (Slezkine 1994:48-49). recognized a high demand for Impressive ceremonies frequently In Alaska, Russian-American European clothing among Alaska accompanied the presentation of gifts, Company officials followed suit by Natives. The clothing brought for often involving an exchange of cloth- awarding a variety of diplomatic the Native trade consisted largely of ing by the leaders of both sides to gifts to Alaska surplus military uniforms or military symbolize the beginning of a Natives, including style garments. In 1782 the Unangan mutually beneficial trade relation- silver Souzznye (Aleut) leader Tyutgin received a red ship (Hanson 1982). Clothing Rossi! (Allies of coat with gold trim from a Russian in exchange was a ritual of Russia) medals exchange for a sea otter skin (Black Native/non-Native and bronze 1984:187). In 1788, explorers Ismailov diplomacy that existed until double-headed and Bocharov, visiting the Yakutat the latter had sufficient power eagle Tlingit, noticed their" ... caps, like those and will to abandon diplomacy of the grenadiers, with brass ornaments altogether. which they procure from the The gifts and ceremonies were Europeans" (Coxe 1803:326). In 1791, status symbols within Native explorers Alejandro Malaspina and societies, and they enabled the Etienne Marchand remarked that non-Natives to manipulate European clothing was in high demand Native power structure: the among Tlingit men at Sitka and most cooperative leaders were Yakutat (Emmons 1991:237). showered with gifts, increasing By the early 1800s, Russian trader their prestige and authority. The Kyrill T. Khlebnikov reported that the presents were symbolic to non- Sitka Tlingit had developed quite a Natives as well, Signifying to taste for fine clothing: other explorers that the Natives "In other colonies Aleutswear bird skin (and their lands) were claimed. parkas, which are warm, comfortable and Rivalry between colonial agents attractive. But on Sitka they want to have drove some to confiscate clothes made not of regular soldier cloth, competitors' gifts and replace but fromgood friezeor fine wool. Many them with presents of their own of them wear frockcoats and dress coats. (Prucha 1988:238-9). Their wiveswere formerlydelighted to have parkas of rodent fur and cotton kamleis ~ [kamleikas],but here they all want a printed cotton dress, a shawl, etc. Allof An undated illustration entitled this represents a style of luxury which is "A vokut" shows a Native of harmful both to them and to the colony" Northeastern Siberia (Dmytryshynand Crownhart-Vaughan wearing a kaftan with 1976:105). decorative trim and In 1827, Frederic Litke (1987:89) fringe-possibly a gift reported that to give Sitka Tlingit from Russian chiefs" ...one hundred rifleswould not administrators. give them as much pleasure as to give Dolgopolov Collection Russian uniforms to their elders, and once Portfolio. Alaska State the elders are dressed up in these uniforms, Library Historical Collection. they give themselves the most important Juneau . but very comical airs." Litke added that the Tlingit until they could identify another noticed immediately when the candidate (Kan 1999:123,Pierce Russian navy changed the style 1990: 274). of their uniforms, and "asked In 1842 Adolph Etholin, that all those uniforms that had Kupreianov's successor, iden- been given them previously tified a new leader worthy of should be remade so that they Imperial recognition: Shilxaku, would not be different than a Sitka Kiks.adi leader, who ours.'? had recently received the Following centuries-old esteemed name Kooxx'aan and practice in eastern Asia, the had been baptized Mikhail in Russians presented distinctive 1836. While Kooxx:'aan was suits of clothing to cooperative relatively inexperienced and chiefs in Alaska. In 1792, Gov. impoverished, he was prone to General Pil' of Irkutsk, on follow the Russians' advice and behalf of Empress Catherine the set a good example that other Great, presented Andreanof Tlingit could follow to complete Chief Sergei Dmitrievich their "conversion to humility" Pan'kov a special suit of (Dean 1993:359-60, Okunl95l: clothing marking his appoint- 209).4 Though Kooxx'aan was ment as intermediary between friendly toward the Russians, the Russian Government and and of noble birth, he had yet the Unangan. This flashy to solidify the backing of his ensemble consisted of a red clan. By honoring him with an woolen parka with gold trim, a imperial title, presenting a bright ~ pale blue velvet hat, and red and fanciful outfit as a badge of :tt,..~ '"~ ,.... goat leather boots (Sarychev .... ":~~~ office, and supporting him with 1802:124-125,translated by Black loans and a salary, the Russians The Sitka Kaftan (detail). Gold metallic braid is applied to hoped to thrust greatness upon 1984:95,188). To leaders of the front opening, and the neck is outlined with silver the Sitka Tlingit, Alexsandr metallic fringe. The front of the Sitka Kaftan is closed with this potentially influential leader Baranov, chief manager of the ornate toggles, decorated with gold thread and pearls. (Kan 1999:122-4, Dean 1995:283- Russian-American Company, ASM94-39-7 290). presented special clothing in a In 1843 Governor Etolin peace ceremony following the reported the appointment of 1804 Battle of Sitka. A red cloak on a Tlingit leader (Tikhmenev Mikhail Kooxx'aan as "Main Sitka trimmed with ermine and plain blue 1978:355).Along with the title came Tlingit Chief" -Glavnyi Sitkhinskii cloaks went to a Tlingit ambassador an ornate kaftan, plumed tricorner Koloshenskii Toien- and presented a and his lieutenants. Reciprocating a hat, and sword (Kimball 1984:232). "gold embroidered kaftan, a sabre, gift of an ermine-trimmed blue cloak The Russians hoped that this unpre- and a tricornered hat with multi- and tobacco, the Kiks.adi clan leader cedented recognition of a Tlingit chief colored plumes" (Kimball 1984:232-3, .K'alyaan (Katlian) gave Baranov a would encourage friendly behavior Tikhmenev 1978:355). Etolin presented "coverlet" of silver-grey fox skin from other leaders, even those outside the clothing to Kooxx:'aan in the (Lisiansky 1968:224,230).
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