Peter Jan Margry (ED.) Shrines and Pilgrimage in the Modern World New Itineraries into the Sacred Amsterdam University Press Shrines and Pilgrimage in the Modern World New Itineraries into the Sacred Shrines and Pilgrimage in the Modern World New Itineraries into the Sacred Edited by Peter Jan Margry Amsterdam University Press Cover: Kok Korpershoek, Amsterdam Illustration: based on Christ giving his blessing by Hans Memling, ca 1478 Lay-out: ProGrafi ci, Goes ISBN 978 90 8964 0 116 NUR 728 / 741 © Peter Jan Margry / Amsterdam University Press, 2008 All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this book may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the written permission of both the copyright owner and the author of the book. Contents On the Authors 7 Map of Pilgrimage Shrines 11 1. Secular Pilgrimage: A Contradiction in Terms? 13 Peter Jan Margry I The Political Realm 2. The Anti-Mafi a Movement as Religion? The Pilgrimage to Falcone’s Tree 49 Deborah Puccio-Den 3. ‘I’m not religious, but Tito is a God’: Tito, Kumrovec, and the New Pilgrims 71 Marijana Belaj 4. Patriotism and Religion: Pilgrimages to Soekarno’s Grave 95 Huub de Jonge II The Musical Realm 5. Rock and Roll Pilgrims: Refl ections on Ritual, Religiosity, and Race at Graceland 123 Erika Doss 6. The Pilgrimage to Jim Morrison’s Grave at Père Lachaise Cemetery: The Social Construction of Sacred Space 143 Peter Jan Margry 7. The Apostle of Love: The Cultus of Jimmy Zámbó in Post-Socialist Hungary 173 István Povedák 6 SHRINES AND PILGRIMAGE IN THE MODERN WORLD III The Sports Realm 8. Pre’s Rock: Pilgrimage, Ritual, and Runners’ Traditions at the Roadside Shrine to Steve Prefontaine 201 Daniel Wojcik IV The Realm of Life, Spirituality and Death 9. Going with the Flow: Contemporary Pilgrimage in Glastonbury 241 Marion Bowman 10. The Pilgrimage to the ‘Cancer Forest’ on the ‘Trees for Life Day’ in Flevoland 281 Paul Post 11. Sites of Memory, Sites of Sorrow: An American Veterans’ Motorcycle Pilgrimage 299 Jill Dubisch Conclusion 323 List of Illustrations 329 Bibliography 331 Index 359 7 On the Authors Marijana Belaj (1970) is Assistant Professor at the Department of Ethnol- ogy and Cultural Anthropology, University of Zagreb, Croatia, where she de- fended her PhD thesis in 2006 on the veneration of saints in Croatian popular religion. Her research interests are contemporary pilgrimages, non-institu- tional processes of the sacralization of places and religious pluralism. Her list of publications includes articles in edited volumes and national and interna- tional journals. She is currently developing a research project on Medjugorje (Bosnia-Herzegovina). [email protected] Marion Bowman (1955) is Senior Lecturer in Religious Studies, and Co-di- rector of the Belief Beyond Boundaries Research Group, the Open University, UK. She is currently President of the British Association for the Study of Re- ligions and Vice-President of the Folklore Society. Her research interests in- clude vernacular religion, contemporary Celtic spirituality, pilgrimage, material culture, and ‘integrative’ spirituality. She has conducted long-term research on Glastonbury, and her publications include ‘Drawn to Glastonbury’ in Pilgrim- age in Popular Culture, edited by Ian Reader and Tony Walter in 1993 and most recently ‘Arthur and Bridget in Avalon: Celtic Myth, Vernacular Religion and Contemporary Spirituality in Glastonbury’ in Fabula, Journal of Folktale Studies (2007). She co-edited (with Steven Sutcliffe) the volume Beyond New Age: Ex- ploring Alternative Spirituality (Edinburgh University Press 2000). [email protected] Huub de Jonge (1946) is Senior Lecturer in Economic Anthropology at the Department of Cultural Anthropology and Development Studies, Radboud University Nijmegen, the Netherlands. He was awarded a PhD from the same university in 1984 with a dissertation on commercialization and Islamization 8 SHRINES AND PILGRIMAGE IN THE MODERN WORLD on the island of Madura, Indonesia. His main fi elds of interest are economy and culture, lifestyles and identity, and entrepreneurship and ethnicity. In 1991 he co-edited (with Willy Jansen) a volume on Islamic pilgrimages. He is also co-editor (with Nico Kaptein) of Transcending Borders: Arabs, Politics, Trade, and Islam in Southeast Asia (Leiden 2002) and (with Frans Hüsken) of Violence and Vengeance: Discontent and Confl ict in New Order Indonesia (Saarbrücken 2002) and of Schemerzones en schaduwzijden. Opstellen over ambiguïteit in samenlevin- gen (Nijmegen 2005). [email protected] Erika Doss holds a PhD from the University of Minnesota. She is Professor and Chair of the Department of American Studies at the University of Notre Dame, Indiana, USA. Her research interests are American and contemporary art history, material culture, visual culture, and critical theories of art history. Her recent books are Twentieth-Century American Art (Oxford University Press 2002); Elvis Culture: Fans, Faith, and Image (University Press of Kansas 1999); Spirit Poles and Flying Pigs: Public Art and Cultural Democracy in American Com- munities (Smithsonian Institution Press 1995). Her current research project is ‘Memorial Mania: Self, Nation, and the Culture of Commemoration in Con- temporary America.’ [email protected] Jill Dubisch holds a PhD from the University of Chicago (1972). She is Re- gents’ Professor of Anthropology at Northern Arizona University, USA. Her research interests include religion and ritual, pilgrimage, ‘New Age’ healing and spiritual practices, and gender. She has carried out research in Greece, other parts of Europe and the United States. Her published works include Gender and Power in Rural Greece (Princeton 1986), In a Different Place: Pilgri- mage, Gender and Politics at a Greek Island Shrine (Princeton 1995), Run for the Wall: Remembering Vietnam on a Motorcycle Pilgrimage (with Raymond Micha- lowski, 2001) and Pilgrimage and Healing (co-edited with Michael Winkelman, 2005). [email protected] ON THE AUTHORS 9 Peter Jan Margry (1956), ethnologist, studied history at the University of Am- sterdam, the Netherlands. He was awarded his PhD by the University of Til- burg (2000) for his dissertation on the religious culture war in the nineteenth- century Netherlands. He became Director of the Department of Ethnology at the Meertens Institute, a research center of the Royal Netherlands Academy of Arts and Sciences in Amsterdam. As a senior researcher at the institute, his current focus is on nineteenth-century and contemporary religious cultures in the Netherlands and Europe. He has published many books and articles in these fi elds, including the four-volume standard work on the pilgrimage culture in the Netherlands: Bedevaartplaatsen in Nederland (1997-2004). He co-edited (with H. Roodenburg) Reframing Dutch Culture. Between Otherness and Authenticity (Ashgate 2007). [email protected] Paul G.J. Post (1953) is Professor of Liturgy and Sacramental Theology and Director of the Liturgical Institute, University of Tilburg, the Netherlands. His current interests include pilgrimage and rituals. His major publications are (with J. Pieper and M. van Uden), The Modern Pilgrim. Multidisciplinary explo- rations of Christian pilgrimage (Peeters 1998); as co-editor Christian Feast and Festival. The Dynamics of Western Liturgy and Culture (Peeters 2001) and a Cloud of Witnesses: The Cult of Saints in Past and Present (Peeters 2005). [email protected] István Povedák (1976) studied history, ethnography and religious studies at the University of Szeged, Hungary. He is currently writing his PhD at the ELTE University of Budapest on celebrity culture in Hungary. His academic inter- ests lie in the fi eld of neofolklorization, civil religion theory and celebrity cul- ture in Hungary. He teaches at the Department of Ethnology and Cultural Anthropology and the Department of Religious Studies at the University of Szeged. [email protected] 10 SHRINES AND PILGRIMAGE IN THE MODERN WORLD Deborah Puccio-Den (1968) is an anthropologist and a research fellow at the CNRS (French National Centre for Scientifi c Research) who works at the Marcel Mauss Institute-GSPM (Groupe de Sociologie Politique et Morale), of the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales (EHESS) in Paris. She is the author of Masques et dévoilements (CNRS Editions 2002); she edited a special issue of Pensée de Midi (Actes Sud 2002) entitled ‘Retrouver Palerme’ and has written many articles on the Sicilian mafi a, including ‘L’ethnologue et le juge. L’enquête de Giovanni Falcone sur la mafi a en Sicile’ in Ethnologie française (2001). In her recent work, she analyzes the connections between religion and politics within the anti-Mafi a movement: ‘De la sainte pèlerine au juge saint: les parcours de l’antimafi a en Sicile’ in Politix (2007) and explores relations be- tween the state and violence: ‘Mafi a: stato di violenza o violenza dello stato?’ in Tommaso Vitale (ed.), Alla prova della violenza. Introduzione alla sociologia pragmatica dello stato (Editori Riuniti 2007). [email protected] Daniel Wojcik (1955) is Associate Professor of Folklore and English, and Di- rector of the Folklore Studies Program at the University of Oregon, USA. He was awarded his PhD in Folklore and Mythology from the University of Cal- ifornia (Los Angeles) in 1991. He is the author of The End of the World As We Know It (New York University Press 1997) and Punk and Neo-Tribal Body Art (University Press of Mississippi 1995), and has published ‘Polaroids from Heaven: Photography, Folk Religion, and the Miraculous Image Tradition at a Marian Apparition Site’ in the Journal of American Folklore 109 (1996), as well as numerous articles on apocalyptic beliefs and millenarian movements, ver- nacular religion and folk belief, self-taught visionary artists, and subcultures and youth cultures. [email protected] 11 13 Chapter 1 Secular Pilgrimage: A Contradiction in Terms?1 Peter Jan Margry The defi nition of the term ‘pilgrimage ’ is in need of re-evaluation.