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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Italian

Lake Maggiore & Around p86 & Around p116

Bergamo, & Cremona p150 p52 ^# & Around p176

Paula Hardy, Marc Di Duca, Regis St Louis PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to MILAN ...... 52 the ...... 4 Neighbourhoods & AROUND...... 86 The Italian Lakes Map. . . . 6 at a Glance ...... 54 Lake Maggiore The Italian Lakes’ Top 14. . . 8 Sights...... 58 West Bank...... 87 Need to Know...... 16 Activities...... 64 ...... 87 First Time ...... 18 Tours...... 65 Arona...... 92 What’s New...... 20 Festivals & Events ...... 65 . . . . . 93 If You Like...... 21 Eating...... 69 ...... 95 Month by Month...... 23 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 76 ...... 97 Itineraries ...... 25 Entertainment ...... 78 Road Trip: Accommodation...... 32 Shopping...... 78 Lakes & Mountains . . . . 98 Getting Around...... 34 Information...... 81 Lake Maggiore East Bank...... 100 Eat & Drink Like a Local . . .37 Day Trips from Milan. . . . . 82 Laveno...... 101 Activities...... 42 Getting There & Away. . . . 84 ...... 101 Travel with Children. . . . 46 Getting Around...... 85 Regions at a Glance. . . . 49 Santa Caterina del Sasso...... 102 Ranco...... 102

SUSAN WRIGHT /LONELY PLANET © JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © ...... 102 Region...... 103 Varese ...... 103 Santa Maria del Monte...... 106 . . . . . 106 Castelseprio & Torba...... 107 Lake Orta...... 107 Orta San Giulio...... 108

PANETTONE, PASTICCERIA P139 MARCHESI, MILAN P71 () ...... 111 ...... 114

MARINADA /SHUTTERSTOCK © ARGALIS /GETTY IMAGES © & AROUND...... 116 Como ...... 117 . . . . 125 Bellagio ...... 125 Torno ...... 128 Lake Como West Bank...... 128 ...... 128 & . . . . . 129 PALAZZO BORROMEO, , ISOLA BELLA P93 P155 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Road Trip: Val Cavallina...... 162 The Italian Lakes High into the Hills. . . . 130 Lake Iseo & Around. . . 163 Today ...... 212 ...... 132 ...... 163 History...... 214 & Iseo...... 164 ...... 132 The Arts...... 224 & Bossico. . . . . 165 ...... 133 Villas & Gardens. . . . . 233 Valle Camonica...... 165 ...... 136 ...... 166 The Lakes Kitchen. . . . 239 & Val Menaggio...... 137 Brescia...... 167 On the Wine Trail . . . . 246 Rezzonico ...... 137 Cremona ...... 170 Fashion & Design. . . . 248 , Lodi...... 174 Peglio & . . . . . 138 Lake Como LAKE GARDA & East Bank...... 138 AROUND ...... 176 SURVIVAL Correno Plinio...... 138 Lake Garda South Bank. . . 177 GUIDE Varenna...... 139 ...... 177 Valtellina ...... 141 Lake Garda West Bank. . . 181 Directory A–Z...... 254 Lake ...... 141 Valtenesi ...... 181 Transport...... 260 Lugano Lake Garda North Bank. . . 187 (Switzerland) ...... 142 Language...... 266 ...... 187 ...... 147 Index...... 273 Lake Garda East Bank. . . 190 ...... 190 Map Legend...... 279 BERGAMO, BRESCIA ...... 193 & CREMONA. . . . . 150 ...... 195 Bergamo...... 151 Verona’s Road Trip: Wine Country ...... 200 Castle Circuit...... 158 ...... 200 Bergamo’s Valleys . . . . . 161 Road Trip: Valle Brembana ...... 161 Valpolicella Wine Tour. . . 202 San Pellegrino Terme . . . 161 Soave...... 204 Valle Seriana...... 162 ...... 205

SPECIAL FEATURES

246 247 Oltrepò

FEDERICA GRASSI / GETTY IMAGES © Compared with Riots broke out in the Middle Ages when Milan was cut off from Oltrepò, the 30,000- ’s most renowned wine region (www.vinoltrepo.org). No fewer hectare French Road Trip: The Arts...... 224 than 20 wines are classified as DOC in this area, and the Oltrepò Pavese wine region of spumante is a DOCG. Keep an eye out for reds like the Oltrepò Pavese Champagne, ’s finest

Barbera and the Bonarda, among the stars of the area’s DOC wines made t Wine the On sparkling wine re- from the local croatina grape. A curious sweet dessert red is the Sangue gion, Franciacorta di Giuda (Judas’ Blood). covers just 2200 hectares. That Lakes & Mountains . . . . 98 Riviera del Garda & Bardolino said, it is quickly Along the western shore of Lake Garda, vineyards blanket the Valtenesi becoming one of the fastest-grow- area all the way up to Lake Idro. Look for Garda DOC or Garda Clas- ing wine regions sico DOC (www.stradadeivini.it). The reds predominantly use the local in . In rail Villas & Gardens. . . . . 233 gropello grape. the early 1990s, there were just 15

On the southeastern shore, one of the ’s best-known reds O

is cultivated around the town of Bardolino. Of its namesake reds, the producers. Now LT there are over Bardolino Superiore DOCG is a delicate, dry drop that pairs well with r

100. E Road Trip: meat and game. If you’re looking for a fine white, try Lugana DOC (www. pò consorziolugana.it). pA v

Soave E s

West of Verona, the town of Soave (www.ilsoave.com) rests next to a cas- E tle-topped hill whose slopes are dense with vineyards. Some of Italy’s High into the Hills. . . . 130 The Lakes Kitchen. . . . 239 finest white wines come from here. The local garganega grape dominates the area’s two white DOCGs, Recioto di Soave and Soave Superiore. Valcalepio The Valcalepio (www.valcalepio.org) wine region between Bergamo and Lake Iseo is just beginning to make a name for itself. Established as a DOC in 1976, small local holdings have since been continually refining their two main DOC products: a red that blends merlot and cabernet Road Trip: sauvignon (and which also comes in an aged riserva version) and whites that combine pinot bianco and pinot grigio varieties. You will also come On the Wine Trail . . . . 246 across a sweet dessert passito using moscato grapes, which is perfect as an accompaniment for pastries and dessert. Valpolicella Castle Circuit...... 158 Led by the outstanding Amarone della Valpolicella DOC (using dried corvina, rondinella and molinara grapes), this region, which stretches north–northwest up the valleys parallel to Lake Garda from Verona, is one of the best-known names in northern Italian wine. While many Valpolicella (www.consorziovalpolicella.it) reds are light, pleasant table On the Wine Trail wines, the flagship Amarone (literally ‘big sour one’) is big, bold and dry. Alongside France, It is accompanied by another signature red, also made with dried grapes, Italy is the largest The region around the northern Italian lakes has been producing wine since Roman wine producer Fashion & Design. . . . 248 the somewhat sweeter Recioto. times and today produces an enormous variety, from fizzy red lambruscos to bombastic in the world, Sforzato and chilly, mineral-rich whites. The tradition of selling many of these modestly processing 45 priced wines in local osterie (taverns), cantine (cellars) and enoteche (wine bars) has led Valtellina to 50 million Road Trip: to the impression that they are of lesser quality than wines from other areas, but the Like a well-behaved Milanese dinner companion, the Valtellina (www. hectolitres per vinidivaltellina.it) red is distinctive and rich without being too for- year, around 20% region claims five DOCG, 19 DOC and 15 IGT wines. of the world’s ward – Leonardo da Vinci loved the stuff. The area boasts two DOCG combined total. classifications, a general one (Valtellina Superiore DOCG) and one ap- Of this, 1.3 million Franciacorta plied to a particular style of wine, the Sforzato (or Sfursat) di Valtellina hectolitres come DOCG spumante (sparkling) whites and rosés lead the way in Franci- DOCG. The nebbiolo grape (locally known as chiavennasca) is the most from Lombardy. Valpolicella Wine Tour. . . 202 acorta (www.franciacorta.net), an area stretching between Brescia and important. Above Oltrepò Pavese Lake Iseo. Look out also for Satèn, a blanc de blanc almost exclusive- vineyards (p83) ly made of chardonnay grapes. The Curtefranca DOC covers a series of whites and reds, the latter dominated by cabernet franc and the local carmenere grape varieties. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25

Itineraries

SWITZERLAND

Bellagio

•# É É Verbania •# É •# Stresa

É É

•# Como É

É

É É

ITALY É

•# Milan

7 DAYS Greatest Hits

Squeeze the most out of a seven-day itinerary with this city-and-lake combo, which com- bines Milan’s best highlights with some chic lakeside living in Stresa, Como and Bellagio. Modernist Milan gets this whirlwind tour off to a spectacular start with big-city treats like Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, Michelin-starred dining at Seta and world-class art in the Pinacoteca di Brera. Give yourself at least two days to eat, shop and sight-see, and take in an opera at La Scala. Then head for belle époque Stresa and ferry-hop to the Borromean palaces on Isola Bella and . On your second day, swing up Monte Mottarone or launch off on a ferry to Verbania to visit the voluptuous gardens at Villa Taranto. From Stresa, continue to Como by car or train (via Milan). Here you can amble the flower-laden promenade to , visit the frescoed Basilica di San Fedele and zip up to for pretty walks and panoramic views. Then press on to Bellagio, which sits in the centre of the lake, allowing you to ferry-hop to Tremez- zo and Varenna. Back in Bellagio, round off the tour with a romantic sunset boat cruise. 26

Locarno•# É

É SWITZERLAND É Cannobio •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# É Lugano

É É

•# É Verbania É Morcote•# •#Borromean Islands •# É Stresa É It i nerar

Orta San •# Giulio •#Como

i es É

ITALY É

#– Malpensa Airport

14 DAYS Into Switzerland

This two-week tour takes you from tiny Lake Orta to the bustling southern shores of Lake Maggiore and up to the lake’s wilder northern reaches before crossing the border to Locarno in Switzerland. From here, the drive south to and Como cuts through the most spectacular mountain scenery. Head straight from Malpensa Airport to the medieval town of Orta San Giulio on the thickly wooded shores of Lake Orta. Spend the following day meandering the medi- eval streets, visiting the 12th-century basilica on Isola di San Giulio and romancing over dinner. In the morning, depart for Stresa on the southern shore of Lake Maggiore. From here you can take the ferry to the Borromean Islands for a day trip to explore their extravagant palaces and gardens. After a day or two, move north up the eastern shore of the lake to Verbania, where you can dip into the interesting Troubetzkoy sculpture collection at Museo del Paesaggio and wander through the vast gardens of Villa Taranto. Dine at charming Osteria Castello or romantic Ristorante Milano before moving on in the morning to Cannobio. This dreamy little cobbled town is one of the quietest on the lake and is a lovely place to spend a day or two lounging on the beach, sailing or exploring the River valley. Start the second week by crossing the border to Locarno, where you can pack two days exploring the quaint old town, swimming at the lakeside lido, and visiting the Castello Visconteo, Isole di gardens and hilltop Santuario della del Sasso. In July and August, Locarno also hosts a fantastic film and music festival. The drive south from Locarno to bewitching Lago di Lugano offers spectacular mountain scenery. You’ll need two or three days here to explore the lakeside towns of Gandria, Meride and Morcote. At Meride you’ll find Mario Botta’s fascinating Museo dei Fossili, while at Gandria you can wander the 5km Sentiero di Gandria with its outstand- ing views over the lake. Base yourself in photogenic Morcote, which has been voted Switzerland’s most beautiful village. Finally, tear yourself away and head south to the silk town of Como, for a final taste of glamour and, perhaps, a swoop over the lakes with the Aero Club. 27 ANILAH /SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es BORIS-B /SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Orta San Giulio (p108) Bottom: Morcote (p146) 28

SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Bergamo •# ITALY Monza •# É É Brescia

Franciacorta Salò É É É •# É •# •# •# It Bardolino

Milan •#

•# Valpolicella É Verona É i nerar Valtenesi•# Lake É É

•# É

Garda É

É É É

É Verona

É •# É ITALY É •# •# Soave •# i es Mantua

7 10 DAYS A Wine Meander DAYS Art Cities

Lombardy produces some of Italy’s finest For an architectural and artistic tour of wines and the area around Verona and Lake ’s glittering medieval and Garda are prime grape-growing territory. Renaissance heydays, look no further than This tour combines the cultural highlights the elegant cities of the valley. of Verona with the heady flavours of Soave, Start this tour in Milan, one of medieval Valpolicella, Franciacorta and the Valtenesi. Italy’s most important city-states. Spend four Fly into Verona and enjoy two days of days here exploring the Castello Sforzesco, sightseeing in the city’s frescoed churches the collection of old masters in the Pina- and grand castle museum. On the third day, coteca di Brera and Leonardo da Vinci’s The day trip to Soave, where you can sample Last Supper. Make day trips to Monza and the lemony Soave Classico at the Azienda Pavia to see the Villa Reale and the Certosa Agricola Coffele in the old town. The follow- di Pavia. Journey to Bergamo on your fifth ing day, set off for Valpolicella to sample day to find some of Lombardy’s finest Re- the full bodied Amarone and Recioto reds. naissance architecture in the Upper Town. Prebook for tastings at wineries. A leisurely Dedicate a morning to the collection in the lunch at Enoteca della Valpolicella is also a , one of the most impres- must. Then continue on through the vine- sive galleries in Italy. From Bergamo it’s a covered hills to Bardolino on the shores of short hop to Brescia, a city which hides a Lake Garda. This tiny town is surrounded fascinating historic core in its ugly suburban by 70 wineries, one of which, Zeni, houses a sprawl, including two preserved Roman wine museum. You can also sample wines houses with floor mosaics. The Roman here. The next day loop round the bottom of theme continues in Verona, your next stop. the lake into the Valtenesi. Base yourself in Verona’s Roman Arena hosts the world’s larg- Salò and strike out for innovative wineries est open-air opera festival. With three final like Comincioli. Round up this wine-fuelled days here, you’ll have time to wander, drink feast with lunch at Michelin-starred Due some of the region’s fine wines and maybe Colombe in Franciacorta, where you’ll get even day trip to Mantua to see Mantegna’s to sample some of Italy’s finest fizz. frescoes in the Palazzo Ducale. 29

Riva del

Garda •#

É É

É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•#

É É Malcesine Lake É •# Garda •# •# Salò É ITALY ITALY

Lake É It Garda Sirmione •# i nerar

•#Garda •#

É Desenzano É •#

del Garda i es

É É Verona

É É

É Verona •#

7 Action-Packed 7 Lake Garda’s DAYS Adventure DAYS Southern Shore

The northern reaches of Lake Garda are The southern shore of Lake Garda with hemmed in by high mountains, making its mild Mediterranean climate has been this perfect hiking, biking and climb- attracting travellers since Roman times. ing territory. Regular winds also draw Hence the tumbledown Roman ruins, pa- water-sports enthusiasts to this outdoor trician villas, elegant lakeside towns and paradise. vine- and olive-covered hinterland. This itinerary encompasses them all. Hire a car in Verona and head straight for the lakeside town of Garda, where you From Verona drive straight to Sirmione, can overnight and take your first dip in the southernmost town on Lake Garda. It sits the lake at the beautiful Parco Baia delle on a peninsula that juts out into the lake and Sirene beach. The next day, drive to Mal- is surrounded on all sides by water. Spend the cesine and ascend massive night wandering the cobbled lanes, soaking in the cable car. Cyclists can hire bikes at in the thermal springs and, in the morning, Xtreme Malcesine and take them on board, explore the Grotte di Catullo, a ruined Roman walkers can access panoramic mountain- villa set in two pretty hectares. Then drive top trails and paragliders can launch off to Salò, via , where the mountain and soar over the lake. On you can visit another Roman villa. Base day three, arrive at Riva del Garda at yourself in Salò for four days. It was once the northern tip of the lake. Base yourself Garda’s capital and is full of lovely Liberty- here for the next three or four days in style buildings. From here, you can visit the order to pack in the wind- and kitesurf- aristocratic residence on the , ing, sailing, swimming, hiking, canyoning as well as Valtenesi wineries, olive farms and and rock climbing. Finish with a spot of the archaeological park of Rocca di Manerba. R&R at B&B Peter Pan above the village Finally, head on to Gardone Riviera for the of Gargnano, from where you can enjoy last two nights to take in André Heller’s beau- off-the-beaten-track walking trails in the tiful botanical garden and the extraordinary Parco dell’Alto Garda Bresciano or flop on Il Vittoriale degli Italiani, the estate of poet the beach at Parco la Fontanella. and Fascist Gabriele d’Annunzio. 30 Off the Beaten Track : The Italian Lakes

SWITZERLAND

THE CENTOVALLI

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN The ‘hundred valleys’ is the westward valley route from southern to Domodossola in Italy. Take in the WALKING TO vertiginous views from a picturesque ORRIDO DI SANT’ANNA train, which carves a path through the 44 valleys. (p111) 44 A 3km walk through a wild, wooded

ravine to a gushing waterfall and a T o

c OFF T H E rocky,4 riverside4 stream where4 you4 e 444 bathe in blissful solitude on hot summer days. (p97)

B 444 4Lak4e •#

EATEN Bellinzona Mezzola CENTOVALLI •#Locarno Domodossola •# 44 ORRIDO DI

TRA PARCO NAZIONALE •# SANT'ANNA Lake DELLA VAL GRANDE Lake Como #÷ Lake •# Lugano •# Lugano CK •# 4444 Maggiore Bellagio •#Verbania VAL Stresa •#Laveno •# •# TRIANGOLO IMAGNA Omegna •# 444 Lake LARIANO •# Orta Lake •# •# Orta San Varese Varese •# Como VAL Giulio Lake TALEGGIO •# A Cantù d

da

•# Cesano PARCO NAZIONALE •# Maderno Dalmine DELLA VAL GRANDE Busto•# •# Arsizio •#Legnano •#Monza The ultimate off-the-beaten-track •# destination is this High Alpine Rho Treviglio •# T i •# Milan national park. The largest wilderness c •# Novara i Magenta •# n area in Italy, its walking trails take you o up into mist-covered mountains offering spectacular views. (p95) Lodi Vigevano •# •# CERTOSA •# DI PAVIA •# Pavia

HIKING THE TRIANGOLO LARIANO This mountainous triangle of land between the two branches of Lake Como is criss-crossed by hiking trails. Located in the peaceful countryside Escape the lakeside crowds for 8km north of Pavia, this architectural- cloud-busting views, quiet mountain ly stunning monastery is one of Italy’s refuges and some excellent bird largest and most opulent, filled with spotting. (p125) fine art treasures and the tombs of Milanese dukes. (p82) 31

0 50 km e# 0 25 miles

444 44AUST4RIA

VALSASSINA VAL IMAGNA & Get off4 the well-worn4 lakeside4 road 4VAL TALEGGIO44 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN and head into the Orobie where Drive off-grid into Bergamo’s most farmers still tend their dairy herds in remote valleys and enjoy wild the old walls and produce the world- 444 landscapes, gushing waterfalls and famous cheeses. (p140) hearty regional cuisine showcasing 444award-winning4 local cheese Taleggio. (p160) OFF T H E 44444444HORSE TREKKING ON MONTE BALDO Saddle-up Western-style on 444 4444 B

Sondrio Argentinian ponies at Ranch Barlot EATEN •# and head out for single- or multi-day 44 444horse treks in the Alpine meadows high above Lake Garda on Monte TRA Baldo. (p192) 44 CK Riva del Garda •#Rovereto lio Lake •# San g O •#Pellegrino Terme MONTE BALDO Lake Iseo Lake •# Bergamo •# Salò •# Lake VALPOLICELLA •# Garda •# Brescia ê# Desenzano •#Sirmione del Garda •# •#Colombare Verona •#

•#Crema Villafranca •#

io c n i

M

r Lake

PIZZIGHETTONE e •# v Mezzo

i •# R Mantua •# Cremona O g lio

WINE TASTING IN PIZZIGHETTONE VALPOLICELLA Make a detour to this perfectly Opt for a few days of slow travel in the preserved medieval town encircled by Valpolicella wine region, checking in rampart walls and explore its ancient at various wineries and restaurants to historic centre before sitting down to sample some of northern Italy’s most a real rural eating experience at an august red wines. (p201) old dairy farm. (p174) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paula Hardy Paula Hardy is an independent travel writer and editorial consultant, whose work for Lonely Planet and other flagship publications has taken her from nomadic camps in the Danakil Depression to Seychellois beach huts and the jewel-like bar at the Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal. Over two decades, she has authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guidebooks and spent five years as commissioning editor of Lonely Planet’s bestselling Italian list. These days you’ll find her hunting down new hotels, hip bars and up-and-coming artisans primarily in Milan, and Marrakech. Get in touch at www.paulahardy.com.

Marc Di Duca A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sand- wich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.

Regis St Louis Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel—and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the moun- tains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www.instagram.com/regisstlouis.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 3rd edition – Jan 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 251 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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