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Editorial Business Office EDITOR Amit Dixit CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Indranil Roy PROJECT EDITOR Sanjiv Valsan CONSULTING EDITOR Lasya Nadimpally Advertisements CMS EXECUTIVE Benny Joshua VICE PRESIDENT Sameer Saxena MANAGER Rakhi Puri First Edition 2019 Author & Project Editor Copyright © Outlook Publishing () Private Limited, New . All Rights Reserved Sanjiv Valsan Circulation NATIONAL HEAD Anindya Banerjee Research ResearchERS Ranee Sahaney Production GENERAL MANAGER Shashank Dixit Disclaimer Design MANAGER Sudha Sharma No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or ART DIRECTOR Deepak Suri DEPUTY MANAGER Ganesh Sah transmitted in any form or means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Kapil Taragi ASSISTANT MANAGER Gaurav Shrivas recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited. Brief text quotations with use of photographs are SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rajesh KG exempted for book review purposes only As every effort is made to provide accurate and up-to-date information in this Photography publication as far as possible, we would appreciate if readers would call our Senior PHOTO RESEARCHER attention to any errors that may occur. Some details, however, such as Raman Pruthi telephone and fax numbers or email ids, room tariffs and addresses and other travel related information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of information provided in this book. However, we would be happy to receive suggestions Printed and published by and corrections for inclusion in the next edition. Please write to: The Editor, INDRANIL ROY on behalf of Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited from AB-10, Outlook Traveller Getaways, AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi-110029 Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi-110029 outlooktraveller.com Printed at GH Prints Pvt. Ltd. A-256, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, For updates, news and new destinations, log on to our website New Delhi-110020 www.outlooktraveller.com

2 3 contents

p. 08 INTRODUCTION Theravada back of the book Buddhism p. 120 Wedding Bells! p. 56 Theravada p. Arts & Crafts Buddhism 126 p. Festival Calendar p. 64 Festivals 133 p. 134 Traditional Fishing p. 70 Monasteries Techniques

mahayana buddhism Animism p. 90 Mahayana Buddhism p. 14 Animism p. 144 Travel Essentials p. 26 Festivals Hinduism p. 156 Tourist Offices p. 114 H induism in p. 156 Tour Operators Arunachal Pradesh Eastern Tribes p. 158 Homestays p. 38 Tirap and Longding p. 160 Photo Credits

4 5 Parashuram Kund Mela A PILGRIM’S HAVEN Situated 48km approx north of the sleepy little town of , this holy shrine in the lower reaches of the Lohit River is said to wash away one’s Department of Tourism sins after a holy dip in the sacred kund. Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh , Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm Introduction A True Melting Pot

spirituality Arunachal Pradesh is a cultural hotspot. spirituality

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With Bhutan, Tibet, China, ,

Nagaland and as neighbours, and a history of migrations and influences from c u l u t r e c u l t u r e each of these areas and beyond over sev- eral centuries, the mix can only be interest- ing. The state has 26 officially recognised scheduled tribes, over a hundred sub- tribes, several animist belief systems and at least 120 languages. In reality, 26 tribes is only a figure used for administration, and the actual diversity is higher than the num- bers suggest. introduction introduction

8 9 spirituality spirituality

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c u l u t r e c u l t u r e

Photographs by sanjiv valsan This is probably the only makes use of the Tibetan The people of Arunachal Pradesh place where Tibetan-style script and are mostly con- introduction Tantric Buddhism and old- centrated around the high more Thai-Burmese influ- developed distinct indige- introduction school Thai-Burmese style mountain areas bordering enced, tend to practice a nous cultures and practices Theravada Buddhism can Tibet, such as , West more old-school Buddhism, here. The communities near both be found thriving in Kameng, , mainly in the eastern dis- the Myanmar border in the same state, along with and Anjaw. Their religion is tricts of Namsai and Eastern Arunachal, such as a diverse set of shamanic a mix of Mahayana . The plethora of the Noctes, Wanchos, animists. Buddhism and the older animist tribes, however, can Tutsas and Tangsas, have a polytheistic Bon religion, be found in almost every somewhat different culture Cultural zones and they have a lot in com- part of the huge state. They that’s considerably close to Generally speaking, the mon with Tibetan tribes follow shamanic practices what’s found in parts of Mahayana Buddhist tribes across the border. and believe in spirits and western Myanmar and the practice Tibetan-style The Theravada Buddhists nature worship. Each of the communities of Tantric Buddhism, which on the other hand, who are various tribes have now and . n

10 11 The Spirituality of arunachal pradesh From stories of the Dalai Lama in the West, the Animism in the Central and Theravada Buddism in the East, a journey through Arunachal is a truly spiritual and enriching experience. Department of Tourism Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm c u l t u r e & spirituality ancestor and his fascinating his and ancestor reveredtheir of stories colourful the to relate rituals and deities legends, myths, their of Many mankind. all Tani,of Abo fromfather the descended have they that Tagins)Apatanis, believe Nyishis, Galos, (Adis, TaniThe tribe. tribes every nearly in significant ually spirits. forest and cycles natural to cated dedi- rituals nature-centric can Animism forms. or images oid human- of worship or ship wor idol books, holy ples, tem- of concept no have typically Animists gions. reliorganised- ventional con- to belong not do and animists, traditionally are here tribes most Pradesh, Arunachal of communities Buddhist the from Apart Ancestors are also spirit- also are Ancestors include many include animsm - waterfalls and lakes. When lakes. and waterfalls as such trees old especially forests, dense in dwell to believed generally are They ation. situ- the on depending lent, malevo- or benevolent tral, neu- be either can Mishmi, Idu in Khinus Adi, in Epoms Yapomlanguages, Galo, in differentin different words by known spirits, These ing. fish- and hunting in success productivity,agricultural nature, of cycles the erning gov- deities formless tiple mul- as well as wildlife, and water,wind, as trees such phenomena observable to related spirits of assortment an in believe Animists YapomSacred forests than differencesoverall. than similarities more have but differentlanguages, speak all tribes These exploits. , and rivers, and hollocks,

15

animism c u l t u r e & spirituality Photographs by sanjiv valsan humans interact with nature, as is the case with tribal communities everywhere, the belief is that people can spirituality spirituality come into contact with

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these forces.

The general policy with these spirits is respect and c u l t u r e c u l t u r e non-interference. Some old trees and forests believed to be their dwelling places are either avoided or entered only for a respectful ritual to acknowledge their territory and ask for their help and blessings. Entering these habitats casually, or animism cutting their old trees, was animism also considered to be risky, and there are plenty of sto- ries going around about simultaneously. Basar in The sacred Hido Hidi falls people who lost their way in has the forest or never returned opened up a few such plac- tiful three- or four-day hike respect the local tradition after they broke this code. es to cultural and adventure beginning at Piri village, and sacrifice a chicken at a These ‘Yapom places’, travellers, including treks involving day-long rigorous specially prepared totem in avoided by humans, have such as Nguda Pokcho peak wading across two rivers, the forest while approaching thus effectively become pro- and Hido Hidi waterfalls camping in the forest and the waterfalls. You also tected areas, with beautiful near Piri village, and the Joli staying in a remote, yet need to introduce yourself forests. They are an excel- forest, near Basar town. content, tribal village with and the names of your fore- lent way to experience both The Hido Hidi falls trek in only four houses. It is cus- fathers, and ask the deities culture and wilderness Lepa Rada district is a beau- tomary for even trekkers to of the waterfall for their

16 17 blessings and safe passage Shamans through their forest. Animists believe that if the For treks in the Lepa spirits of the forest should Rada Yapom forests contact decide to harm humans for spirituality spirituality Henka Basar (08730805486). whatever reason, the result

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A good time to go is either can be disease, death, mis-

during the Basar Conflu- fortune or other problems, ence, a cultural showcase but in typical tribal style, c u l t u r e c u l t u r e tourism festival in they also deem that every November, or during problem must have a solu- Mopin, an enjoyable Galo tion. Yapoms/epoms/ui’s tribal festival held in the first and other supernatural week of April, if a bit of rain beings can often be rea- doesn’t bother you. soned or bargained with, to

An animist forest ritual; an Idu Mishmi igu (facing page) animism animism

18 19 spare a person, clan or com- a conventional ‘priest’ or a munity from suffering. holy man. He could be a Hence, the shaman, who is farmer with a family or even an intermediary between hold a government job, and spirituality spirituality the human and supernatural love smoking or drinking.

& & But unlike regular folks, he world, is the central figure.

You will hear many has another side, an inborn accounts by animists in gift of being able to access c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Arunachal about how sha- the supernatural realm when manic rituals cured them of he goes into trances, chant- illnesses after modern medi- ing spontaneously for hours cine failed. The shaman isn’t or even days in an archaic

Idu Mishmi igus perform rituals at Dibang Valley

An Adi tribal sits with his mithun animism animism

classical language that who receive and chant ‘from these beings understand. the other side.’ A shaman can never be trained, unlike a priest or a The mithun monk; someone is either A mithun is a semi-domesti- born a shaman or not. cated gaur-like bovine that Other than ritual shamans, you’ll frequently see in many tribal hamlets also many parts of Arunachal have a diversity of other Pradesh. Although they are mystics, ranging from astrol- privately owned, like regular ogers, fortune tellers, leaf- cattle, mithuns are allowed readers, clairvoyants and to roam and breed freely in touch healers to folk singers the forest, and are never

20 21 fully domesticated, leading tion; it is only distributed at to a ‘gamey’ tasting meat. ceremonies for free. Tribal The mithun plays an society traditionally meas- important role in many ures a man’s social status by spirituality spirituality animist festivals, weddings the amount of mithun meat

& & he distributes for free to the

and rituals. Unlike commer-

cial ranching or agriculture, entire village. mithun rearing is a sustaina- c u l t u r e c u l t u r e ble practice, and doesn’t Literature through music require forests to be cut, and craft and provides enough to eat For most of the region’s his- but not to sell, which is pos- tory, the animists have had sibly why mithun meat can no written languages. They never be sold as per tradi- have always recorded their literature and history orally, Idu Mishmi igus chanting through an elaborately inter- meshed animism set of customs, myths, Adis rehearse for ritual dances at Rumgong village animism taboos, folk songs, dances, textile motifs, shamanic not spoken. Ponungs are cuss and debate the origin chants, storytelling sessions, very inclusive, in that of things. Likewise, the agricultural and fishing prac- though the song is led by Khappa-Sei, the deeply tices, festivals, and even an experienced ‘Miri,’ any- poetic and philosophical their antique jewellery and body can join in the chorus, interactive folk music of the artefacts. since there’s a lot of repeti- Nocte tribe is also sung in a Among the Tani tribes, tion; often, the Miri’s lyrics poetic, classical dialect ponung is an ancient ani- can also be totally sponta- called Khappa. The culture, mist vocal music form neous. Folk songs like the philosophy, myths and chanted in groups in an Nenem, Bari, Rellong of the migration routes of the Idu archaic classical language Adi tribes deal with com- Mishmis of Dibang Valley that can only be sung and plex philosophies and dis- are all contained in the

22 23 chants of their shamans involve colourful costumes (Igus), who go into trances and jewellery, agricultural and narrate this in nonstop and even war themes, song and dance for hours beautifully made swords, spirituality spirituality and days at a stretch. spears, shields and even

& & handmade guns.

Many animists can rou-

tinely trace their lineage up Many antique swords, to 20 generations without machetes, brass plates and c u l t u r e c u l t u r e the need of a script. Most bead necklaces have a his- animist music is understand- tory attached; when these ably vocal and rich in cul- valuables move from gener- ture, philosophy and history, ation to generation, or from with very few musical instru- one clan to another as mar- ments, and many dances riage gifts, along with them

Bamboo sliver counting A Galo nyibo (shaman) and his assistants chant at a healing ritual animism the stories of the previous however, indigenous faiths animism owners are also passed on, like animism and Buddhism which increases their value still form the majority. in more ways than one. Animists, Christians and Christianity in Arunachal Buddhists from various Many animists in Arunachal tribes live together harmo- Pradesh have converted to niously, and often inter-mar- Christianity in recent years, ry these days. It is an inter- as is the case all over the esting period of cultural Northeast. Christianity is flux, but in the interior vil- now a growing part of the lages, original animist tradi- local culture. Unlike the tions are still very much other northeastern states, alive to this day. n

24 25 Animist festivals spirituality spirituality

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The best time to plan a trip In general, there are two to the animist areas would types of tribal festivals here, c u l t u r e c u l t u r e be during a festival. Most the original, village-level festivals in Arunachal version for which dates are revolve around getting decided just a few days or good agricultural harvests, weeks before the festival, appeasing forest spirits and and the ‘centralised’ mod- chasing away negative ernised high-budget ver- energies through various sions with VIP guests, stage gatherings, ritual sacrifices shows and fixed dates. f e s t i v a l s f e s t i v a l s

and shamanic ceremonies. Hardcore cultural travellers There’s a good deal of will generally want to seek

animist out the village-level version. fun as well, with lots of animist singing, dancing and Planning is tricky though, apong, the ritual starch because animist festival wine brewed with rice, mil- dates are announced only lets, corn or tubers. after certain rituals decide Arunachali tribals are the auspicious dates for the generally a friendly, uncom- festival. The centralised ver- plicated and hospitable lot, sions can also be interest- and you are likely to leave ing, and the big advantage any trip here feeling a while making plans is that great deal of emotional festival dates are known attachment for the place well in advance. Often, it so and its people. happens that the people

26 27 Photographs by sanjiv valsan you meet in the centralised mid- and late-March. Myoko festivals lead you to better is an ‘open door’ festival and more experiences after- that goes on for some three wards, so they’re definitely weeks, and anybody is wel- spirituality spirituality worth a visit. come into anybody’s house

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to eat and drink with them

Apatani festivals during this time. The The best time to experience Apatanis also celebrate c u l t u r e c u l t u r e the hospitable Apatani cul- Dree in early July, and ture of Valley is during Murung in January. their Myoko festival, a long series of rituals between Nyishi festivals Nyokum, which used to Nyokum preparations underway be the Nyishi tribe’s ritual practiced at a clan-level, is now celebrated at a com- f e s t i v a l s f e s t i v a l s

munity or tribe-level as an expression of tribal animist Mopin rituals at Darka village, West Siang animist identity and unity, along animist with a ritual for a prosper- ous year ahead for every- Nyokum celebrations open trally’ on April 5. At the vil- one. It’s held around to the public are at Yazali lage/local level, the dates February 26 each year. and . Nyishis cele- can vary up to a couple of Shamans appease the brate their Boori Boot festi- weeks before or after that. Nyokum spirits with extend- val in early February, while The real deal is in the villag- ed rounds of chanting, and Longte Yullo is celebrated es. There’s lots of feasting the whole gathering eats, in mid-April. and notorious quantities of drinks, sings and dances a special Galo-style char- together. Nyishi millet wine Mopin coal-filtered rice wine, that’s is known to be of a high Mopin, the Galo tribe’s big locally called poka. This is standard. The biggest festival, is celebrated ‘cen- certainly one of the more

28 29 playful festivals, and every- different ways in the geo- one smears rice paste and graphically diverse Adi tribal throws water on each other. belt, marking the onset of Enjoyment aside, there are spring, and the beginning spirituality spirituality also rituals, singing, chant- of the new agricultural

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ing and prayers for good cycle. The five-day ‘ ’ Solung harvest. Remember to come festival is celebrated in the wearing only white. middle of the year, during c u l t u r e c u l t u r e the months of August/ Adi festivals September. The Adi Solung Unying and Aran are varia- and Unying festivals with tions of an Adi festival that their rare folk music and old are simultaneously celebrat- traditions, are pretty ed in late February by dif- ancient. Adi shamans, ferent Adi communities in known as miris, sing stories A visitor receives a ponung song in his honour at f e s t i v a l s f e s t i v a l s

Adis prepare for dances during the Unying Giidi spring festival about the origin of man, person who can translate animist animals and plants, the them for you. animist ancestry of the Adis, and The Bokar Adis celebrate the lives and deeds of the Podi Barbi festival in Adi heroes. Lots of feasting, December in the exception- apong, and ponung singing ally beautiful remote moun- and dances are involved. tain area near Monigong, in Boleng, and Adi Arunachal Pradesh’s Shi tribal villages are good Yomi district. places to catch these festi- vals. Some vanishing forms Tagin festivals of folk music can be wit- Si Donyi (Earth-Sun) is the nessed during the festivities, Tagin tribe’s big ceremony but you will need a local celebrated during the first

30 31 spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e f e s t i v a l s f e s t i v a l s

Sharing apong; Nyishis carry a Dapo totem (facing page) animist week of February. It is dedi- dancing by the Idu Mishmis, animist cated to the Earth and the a very interesting tribe from Sun, and seeks blessings of the Dibang Valley and Lower various spirits for a good Dibang Valley districts. This harvest. relatively modern celebrato- ry take on a traditional sha- Eastern Arunachal festivals manic ritual happens The general Reh festival (dif- between late January and ferent from the Reh clan-lev- early February in these two el ritual) is a visitor-friendly districts. The animist Tangsas community-level celebration, of cele- along with a live display of brate their animist Mol festi- shamanic chanting and val in April. The Digaru and

32 33 spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e

Miju Mishmis celebrate Pachi-Dugo-Doh and Sarok Scenes from the Shapawng Yawng Manau Poi festival Tamladu in mid-February, in mid-January, where you but the real village-level cel- can sample sai, their rice- gion. However, they still scarves and handkerchiefs f e s t i v a l s f e s t i v a l s

ebrations are hard to find millet combination brew. retain old animistic and to a groovy Singpho tune, these days, and the main The Puroiks have their ancestor worship traditions which a band of singers animist centralised spots are at Gomkum Gompa festival in in their annual community keeps crooning live. The animist Wakro and Tezu towns. mid-April. dance festival Shapawng rule is that once you’re in Yawng Manau Poi, on the circle, you need to last it Western Arunachal’s Shapawng Yawng February 14 and 15. out, till the very end! animist festivals Manau Poi For several hours over The performance begins The animists of Western The Singpho tribe of two days, the entire tribe as concentric dancing cir- Arunachal are less known. Eastern Arunachal Pradesh, shows up at a central venue, cles, and then splits into The Miji tribe have their col- also known across the inter- gets together in a circle in multiple spirals that keep ourful Chindang festival in national borders as the their liveliest traditional joining each other in differ- mid-October, while Akas Kachins or Jingpaws in attire, and dances together. ent permutations and com- have the four-day Nechi Myanmar and the Jingpo in Men dance with swords in binations, making various Dau (Nyethrii Dow) festival China, are technically hand, while the women formations, inspired by in mid-November and Theravada Buddhists by reli- wave Chinese-style fans, flocks of birds in flight. By

34 35 spirituality

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The intergenerational dance at Shapawng Yawng Manau Poi

the end of it, you’ve made tural stage shows and eye contact and danced socialise with the Singphos with nearly every one of the and Arunachali tribals and animism thousands of people there. Kachins from Myanmar who The poi (festival) is also a make it to the festival. Nyokum great place to shop for It was the Singphos who exotic and colourful introduced tea to the Yullo Burmese-made clothes, British, who then went on to handicrafts and eatables introduce it to India. Arunachal pradesh from the many Burmese Singphos still make their Tribal dances and mithun sacrifices; Singpho traders who make traditional tea in bamboo head to Pakke Tiger Reserve to experience the unique Nyokum Yullo it to the festival. Eat and hollows, and if you’re lucky festival of the Nyishis drink at the local Singpho you can get to sample some Department of Tourism food stalls (Singpho cuisine Singpho tea here. n Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India is ranked pretty high up in The venue of the festival Phone: +91-360-2214745 the northeastern end of varies every year, between E-mail: [email protected] things), check out the cul- Namsai and Changlang. follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm

36 Tirap and Longding spirituality

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AROUND Tirap Though the Indian govern- Arunachal’s unexplored ment and administrative

exotic East is as rich in cul- systems now rule the state, c u l t u r e ture and spirituality as it is in the chief is still respected by landscapes. Culturally and his people. Along with the spiritually distinct from both local chief council members, the Buddhist and animist he forms the heart of the tribes of central and Western local judicial system used to Arunachal, the Noctes of settle disputes, and all

Tirap are more like a diverse important public meetings l o n g d i n g collection of similar commu- are held at his house. It is a n d nities rather than a single, customary to first go meet homogenous entity. the chief whenever you

enter any Nocte or Wancho t i r a p The Nocte chiefs village, and you will invaria- Every village in the Tirap bly be received with hospi- and Longding districts has a tality. The chief will general- chief, who is still an impor- ly also be able to arrange tant figure here. Unlike roy- homestays for travellers. alty in mainstream societies, the chief is typically a very Spirit animals accessible person, and lives The tiger is said to be the in a bamboo hut, though his ‘animal spirit’ (mong) of house is bigger and kings, shamans and healers, designed differently. and the Noctes believe that

39 Photographs by sanjiv valsan killing a tiger could result in with it every night during the death of a king or sha- their dreams. There are still man to whom the animal’s a few old people and sha- soul is linked, which is why mans who maintain this fas- spirituality spirituality killing tigers isn’t allowed. cinating connection, and say

& & they experience whatever Similarly, local taboos pro-

tect river dolphins, ele- their mong experiences, phants, eagles, some large travelling with it wherever it c u l t u r e c u l t u r e fish and other animals from goes, seeing what it sees. the cat family. In the days gone by, it was common for The last headhunters people here to ‘know’ their of Tirap spirit animal and connect At Luthong village, near town, you can meet A Nocte farmer winnows rice the two last tattooed l o n g d i n g headhunters of Tirap, who Old headhunting trophies displayed in the pang at Lapnan l o n g d i n g

had earned their prestigious a n d a n d

headhunting tattoos after attached to headhunting collections have either been bringing back the heads of trophies and tattoos was discarded, or have withered t i r a p invaders from Myanmar who more about lionising the away through neglect t i r a p had crossed into their men who defended their (because since head hunting village and killed someone land and territory from stopped, new skulls aren’t from their clan. They are encroachers, just as modern added to the set anymore) super friendly and -day defence personnel are but at Lapnan (3km) village, welcoming, and are happy glorified with medals and where old animist traditions to chat about their admiration after standing up are still followed, experiences. Contrary to to their enemies. headhunting skull trophies popular myth, the tradition are displayed in the of headhunting was done Pangs and log drums community centre called the neither for sport nor In most villages these pang, which is still guarded cannibalism. The glory headhunting skull in the traditional style.

40 41 The most important asset before mobile phones exist- in the pang and Nocte per- ed. Every distinct beat or cussion music tradition is rhythm played on the thaam the log drum (thaam), made has a different meaning. spirituality spirituality with a huge log of an old There could, for example,

& & be one beat to call a meet- tree that’s hollow on the

inside. The log drum is ing at the pang, another to designed for double-duty, it call everyone to assemble c u l t u r e c u l t u r e can be either a huge musi- for jungle path clearing cal instrument (played by work, one beat for a special many people at one time), fire alarm, another one to or a public address system, signal an attack by invaders, developed in the days or any emergency warrant- ing community action, and A tattooed headhunter so on. Nearly every Nocte l o n g d i n g village has a pang, but l o n g d i n g

some are more active than Olo women sorting tapioca for traditional wine at Laju a n d a n d

others. own Hadang Kaalika (village The Khappa villages t i r a p Indigenous animism god), to whom they make Nocte folksongs are sung in t i r a p Though many Noctes have offerings. There are also ‘Khappa’, an ancient, poetic converted to Christianity, traditional healers, clairvoy- language that most regular many still practice earlier ants and leaf-reading fortu- folks here don’t understand traditions. The Noctes in netellers here who twist anymore. This is the Nocte traditional animist villages broom grass blades in their equivalent of Latin or like Lapnan still live in tribal fingers to read the future. Sanskrit; the difference here longhouses, practice weav- Keti, Khunsa Basti, Borduria is that Khappa is actually ing and bamboo craft, and Namsang (near still spoken as a colloquial believe in the jobans (form- ) are other villages language in three villages in less spirits of nature, time where you can experience Tirap, namely Noksa (15km and space) and have their indigenous Nocte culture. from Khonsa), Tupi (near

42 43 Noksa) and Pulung (17km); tional costume, another where the old tradition of group of percussionists, ‘Khappa Sei’, an interactive again, flamboyantly attired; form of poetic, zen-like trib- and finally, the audience, spirituality spirituality al folk music, still thrives. basically the entire village,

& & who are expected to Khappa Sei is so hard to

categorise that it probably respond in song to support warrants a genre of its own. the singer, every time he c u l t u r e c u l t u r e During it, the whole vil- provokes them by singing a lage divides into four haiku-esque riddle. Khappa groups with one lead singer, Sei lyrics are known to get a group of dancers in tradi- poetic enough to move the audience to tears. A tattooed Olo woman The bigger and more sensitised the audience is, l o n g d i n g the more impressive the l o n g d i n g

performance will turn out, Spectacular sunrise at Laju a n d a n d

especially if there are many female voices in the audi- Melo Paku, the Khappa are held around the same t i r a p ence. Without an audience harvest festival. At Noksa time period. t i r a p that understands the now- village the dates are gener- The village welcomes threatened Khappa lan- ally April 25–27 for Konyu cultural travellers, but in guage, which now survives (26th being the main cultur- typical tribal style, festival in only three villages in the al performance day) and dates are finalised only two world, there can be no October 18–20 for Melo. weeks before the festival Khappa Sei. Contact Doyang Bayang on after certain moon readings. The ideal time to experi- behalf of the Noksa king for You can either directly go ence Khappa Sei and see accommodation, informa- and meet the king or the local costumes and tion about festivals and vis- Gambura, or ask your oper- dances would be at the iting (06383612580). At Tupi ator to contact them on Konyu Spring Festival and village, these two festivals your behalf.

44 45 The Olos Olo tribe, who trace their Though the old practice of migration routes to coming-of-age facial tattoo- Myanmar, where one part of ing (Manvi) has now their tribe still lives. You can spirituality spirituality stopped among Nocte still see lots of women with

& & facial tattoos in Laju, the women, there are still many

older Nocte women who youngest of whom are prob- have these tattoos. Laju ably in their forties, and also c u l t u r e c u l t u r e (44km from Khonsa), close in Sanliem village (18km), to the Indo-Myanmar bor- on the road between der, is the heartland of the Khonsa and Laju (44km). From Laju, the Myanmar An Olo man border is a little over seven kilometres away, at Nonglo, the last village in India l o n g d i n g before Burmese territory A hollowed out trunk of a tree, used as a drum l o n g d i n g

begins. This lovely highland a n d a n d

village built on a steep hill, Pongtu Kun folksongs, colourful is worth a visit for its lovely This is an elaborate 10-day costumes and firing guns! t i r a p mountain landscapes, Olo festival of the Tutsas of (All distances in km meas- t i r a p culture, friendly locals and Tirap and Changlang, ured from Khonsa town, dis- that indescribably exciting celebrated around April trict HQ of ) border-village feel; before (dates are variable), with you get there you have to each day having a specific Getting there stop at an army checkpost set of rituals dedicated to Khonsa town is the district and identify yourself to good agricultural harvest, headquarters of Tirap. The security guards. The Olos millets in particular, and clan closest airport to Khonsa is celebrate their Worang fes- and village bonding. Like (120km/4–5 hrs), tival between April 15 and other festivals of the region, and regular buses and share 20 in Laju and around May the original version involves taxis ply between 10 at Noglo. feasting, apong, dances, Dibrugarh/ and

46 47 spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e l o n g d i n g l o n g d i n g

a n d a n d

t i r a p t i r a p

48 49 Khonsa. Taxis can also be hired in either direction.

Tour operators spirituality spirituality Village Holiday Tours &

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organises cultural Travels and food tours in the area. c u l t u r e c u l t u r e The Oria Festival of the Wancho tribe March 15-17 at Mintong, Niusa and Longphong villages, The Wanchos are the main tribe in Longding district, on l o n g d i n g the Indo-Myanmar border, l o n g d i n g

culturally similar to the a n d a n d

Noctes of Tirap, Konyaks of Nagaland and also other t i r a p Burmese-Naga tribes across celebrates on a different Wancho dancers prepare for their set t i r a p the border. Their spring date, which is announced festival, Oriah, is organised only a few days before the jointly from March 15–17 at selves get to go to each ‘centrally’ in Longding town festival. all three villages simultane- other’s villages during the on February 14 every year, ously, with 15th being the festival. In these parts, which might be nice to Three festivals in one main day of tribal music and language and traditional attend if you’re travelling in While most villages cele- dances in traditional cos- dress can vary from village Arunachal at the time. The brate Oriah on different tume. All three villages to village, and each village more local celebrations dates, three Wancho villag- schedule and synchronise has its own king, so getting happen later in the villages, es, Mintong, Niusa and their celebrations one after to experience the same from the second week of Longphong, now organise the other on this day, shift festival at three different March onwards. Each village and celebrate the festival by shift, so that they them- villages on the same day is

50 51 a rare treat, even for the ing jungle paths. On the Wanchos themselves. second day, all the young On the first night, village men and women get elders and women sing and together and celebrate, spirituality spirituality dance; the menfolk take a singing and dancing late

& & into the night, and the break, because this is the

night when all able-bodied Wancho brew, locally known men return exhausted after as ‘zu’, certainly does help c u l t u r e c u l t u r e having spent the day clear- to liven the occasion.

A Wancho man during Oriah Dances by headhunters Unlike other areas, headhunting practices continued in the Wancho belt for much longer, with l o n g d i n g the last incident reported in l o n g d i n g

1984, so you can still meet The Wanchos are known for their colourful costumes and jewellery a n d a n d

the last surviving headhunters here. On the a big part of their dances Wancho cuisine t i r a p main day of the Oria and rituals. A local gun- Wancho zu can be brewed t i r a p festival, the last surviving making competition during using different starchy ingre- tattooed old Wancho the festival honours this her- dients, from local red rice, headhunters lead the itage, with prizes and cheers tapioca and all sorts of mil- dances at Mintong village. for the best-made country lets, and it’s quite different guns and gunpowder. The from the apong found in the Gun-making competitions village king is the judge, Tani tribal areas, for exam- Once a hunter-warrior tribe, and he picks the best-made ple. Wancho food, similar to the Wanchos have a long gun and gunpowder, based Naga cuisine, is another and cherished tradition of on the sound of the gun- delight in these parts, espe- making local guns (and gun- shot and accuracy of the cially the wild veggies, local powder), and firing them is weapon they have. lentils, Naga-style pork

52 53 spirituality

& c u l t u r e l o n g d i n g

A dance being performed by the Wancho tribespeople a n d

curry, sausages and ‘stone Nearest Airport: t i r a p pork’, where the meat is Dibrugarh, (178km) slow-cooked without a fire, Nearest railway station: by tossing it in red-hot, pre- Sapeghati, Assam (60km) heated river stones that from Longding district impart a subtle flavour. headquarters. MYOKO Getting there Tour operators Longding town is the central Village Holiday Tours Arunachal pradesh A celebration of friendship and harmony between various Apatani villages, transport hub for villages in & Travels organises cultural Myoko is a festival during which the new paddy crop is sown; it is the best way the Longding district. Most and food tours in Tirap and to experience the tribe’s rich culutre villages in the district are eas- Longding and can also Department of Tourism ily accessible from the town. organise homestays. n Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 54 Theravada Buddhism spirituality

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Theravada Buddhism, or Myanmar, Thailand, Laos ‘the way of the elders’, is and Cambodia (with whom

the world’s oldest surviving they share history, language c u l t u r e form of Buddhism, using the and ethnicity). And, unlike original Pali scripts from the animists, at their festivals, Buddha’s time. Unlike the killing/slaughter and alcohol Tibetan-style tantric are forbidden. Buddhism of the Mahayana The Tai Khamtis, Buddhist tribes of Tawang, Singphos and the Tikhak b u d d h i s m

West Kameng and Tangsas of Changlang dis- Mechuka, who have a pan- trict have a thriving old- theon of colourful school Theravada Buddhist Bodhisattvas, deities and culture, which can be seen figures from their older both in daily life and in their t h e r a v a d a Bon Tibetan animist tradi- Buddhist monasteries and tions in addition to the temples, locally called Buddha, the Theravada chongs or kyongs. Buddhist tribes of Eastern Arunachal concentrate only Buddhist Chongs on Sakyamuni (Gautama Nearly every Tai Khamti or the Buddha). Singpho village has a Arunachal’s Theravada chong generally located Buddhists are ethnically, near a stream on its eastern culturally and linguistically end. Most chongs in closer to the Buddhists of Eastern Arunachal have

57 Photographs by sanjiv valsan been renovated or rebuilt Tai Khamti Dances and in the more ornate Thai- Poong theatre Burmese style, a popular Buddhist, classical literature aesthetic in these parts. and mythology are the basis spirituality spirituality Many of the Buddha idols of many of the expressive

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and figurines are also of Tai Khamti costume dances

Thai or Burmese origin. called Ka Poong (dance Most of the important drama), which are effectively c u l t u r e c u l t u r e chongs are in the Tai theatre performances Khamti areas of Namsai. inspired by Buddhist ideolo- gies and mythology. A Tai Khamti man The Ka Kinnara-Kinnari (Peacock and Peahen Dance), with its spectacular prop-like costumes, is b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

associated with luck and happiness. It is believed Singpho women in their traditional attire that, during a previous life, Lord Buddha was a dance (Ka-kong Tu Kai) and based on literature found in t h e r a v a d a peacock, and this dance Demon Dance (Ka Fi Fai) the Tai Khamti classical texts t h e r a v a d a enacts how he lived that can impress with the called the liks (Poong- life. Similarly, the Buddha costumes alone, even Keincha), and historical had taken over 500 forms, before the actual roots dating back to the many of which were as birds performance begins. Poong 12th century. and animals, and some of or Pya-poong is a highly The season for these these stories have been evolved, yet unknown Tai performing arts begins after incorporated into elaborate Khamti form of ritual November or December, costume dances; theatre, involving a once paddy has been har- accompanied by singing, combination of poetry, vested and farmers have drums, gongs, flutes and lyrical dialogue, music and more leisure time. Theatre cymbals. The cockfight flamboyant costumes, and dance groups are invit-

58 59 ed to different villages, and dances and drama are every family contributes night-long affairs that begin towards the costs involved. after dinner. Dance and theatre perform- spirituality spirituality ances also happen during Wish balloons

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Poi Lu Fra, a ceremony An interesting sight at many

where an individual donates festivals and rituals are an idol to a temple, and traditional Buddhist Wish c u l t u r e c u l t u r e sponsors the big ritual and Balloons, which are like celebration that accompa- miniature handmade mini nies it. Typically, Tai Khamti hot air balloons made of paper that Buddhists light A Singpho girl up and release to float like flying lanterns into the night sky, along with their wish at b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

the end of rituals. The Golden Pagoda Eco Resort, Tengapani Where to stay in the Namsai-Chongkham area area, and generally good rentals, etc. so depend on t h e r a v a d a Adjacent to the Golden value for money, with them only for rooms, lunch t h e r a v a d a Pagoda complex at cottages costing between (non-local cuisine) and Tengapani (9km from `2,000 and `3,000 (includ- dinner. The only other con- Chongkham, 20km from ing breakfast) and clean ventional tourist accommo- Namsai town) is the peace- dorms costing `600 per dation between here and ful, clean and neatly land- bed, a great deal as long as Chongkham, other than scaped Golden Pagoda Eco they’re empty (which is most government accommoda- Resort (w goldenpagoda of the time, like the rest of tion like circuit houses or ecoresort.com), which is the the resort). forest department accom- only comfortable accommo- The staff doesn’t have modation at Namsai, is the dation around for miles in much information about the guesthouse at the Pali the Namsai-Chongkham local places, culture, car Vidyapeeth in Chongkham

60 61 (062694757/07005473293), nearby places. While visiting which needs to be booked Buddhist temples (chongs), in advance. it’s always better to either have a local guide to under- spirituality spirituality Local guides and stand what’s going on, and/

& &

or go speak to the bhante

getting around If you haven’t got your own (monk) at the chong, if he car, the Network counter at isn’t busy attending to his c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Namsai bazaar (094020- duties or meditating. Camp 47340) is the place to rent Namdapha Holidays is run one or find transport to by a person from Namsai, and they organise cultural Local wild greens tours and homestays in these parts. b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

Where to eat All the Theravada Buddhist Traditional Tai-style lunch at Tai Hut tribes—Tai Khamtis, Singphos and Tangsas—are on the highway between mutton curry, attracting t h e r a v a d a known for their delicious Chongkham and locals and customers from t h e r a v a d a and wholesome food. Tai Tengapani, has a tree- as far away as Dibrugarh Hut at second mile, house, where you can try and Tinsukia in Assam. All Namsai, serves some nice some great local tribal food these places have friendly local Tai Khamti dishes. at reasonable prices. owners who will be happy Either choose the dishes of Centre Point at to talk food with you. Noi the day, or inform them in Chongkham has far less Cheynam, conveniently advance in case you would variety, but the food is still located on the highway like them to prepare some- good. Subhash Dhaba near near the Golden Pagoda at thing specific. Dhaba River Pankha bridge, around 5km Tengapani, serves Tai View in Nalung from Namsai, is locally Khamti food, and the ambi- (8837392429, 9383004502) famous for its North Indian ence is pleasant. n

62 63 Theravada Buddhist Festivals spirituality

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Mai-ka-Sung-Phai Sangken: The water (Mai ko som phai) festival

January end–early February April 14–16 c u l t u r e Literally meaning ‘to light The water festival is cele- up a stack of firewood’, this brated on April 14, in festival is celebrated at a different forms, all the way common ground in most from Arunachal Pradesh to Buddhist villages, to Myanmar and Thailand remember the day on (where it is called which Gautama the Buddha ‘’). Buddha stat- announced his impending ues are taken out of their death and departure from temples and given an aus- f e s t i v a l s his body, and honour all picious ceremonial bath that he taught during his and then re-installed, in last days as a physical three separate ceremonies. being. A special feast on Sangken involves three this day features Khao days of celebrations that Ya-Ku, a mixture of gluti- include these religious ritu- nous rice, sesame seeds, als, ending in merrymaking yam, nuts and leafy vegeta- sessions, in which people bles. As the name sug- splash and spray water at gests, a tall tower of each other. This also sym- wood is burnt on the occa- bolises spiritual cleansing. sion, a spectacular visual The tradition is that on by itself. Sangken, people move

65 Photographs by sanjiv valsan from village to village, and chong to chong (every village has a chong) along with their village spirituality spirituality monks, to as many villages

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as possible. Every village

and every chong takes on a festive vibe. This c u l t u r e c u l t u r e cheerful festival is a good way for people here to stay connected with their relatives, meet people from other villages in a happy context, and maintain peaceful b u d d h i s m

relations among various hamlets.

Sangken marks the f e s t i v a l s Buddhist . The t h e r a v a d a water festival is a good time to go chong-hopping in the Poi Potwa Disciples at Chong Long Chongkham Theravada belt, because Late October–First week this is when every temple is of November their monasteries itself. (release from Varsha Vas) at its liveliest. It is said that the Buddha Monks here follow this tradi- is celebrated. Monasteries such as had advised his disciples tion even today, and during Earlier, monks and lay- Empong, Phaneng, not to leave their monaster- the period between mid- people from each village Momong, Chongkham and ies during the monsoons to July and October (Varsa would visit as many villages the Golden Pagoda are par- preach in the villages, possi- Vas), the monks go into the as possible to pay respects ticularly festive during this bly due to the risks associat- ‘monsoon retreat’ period, at to Buddha idols in every time and are a must visit if ed with the season, and the conclusion of which the chong, meet monks and you’re in the area. conduct sermons within poi (festival) of the Potwa elders, catch up with rela-

66 67 tives, trying to reach as many villages as possible during this time. The belief is that this practice helps spirituality spirituality cleanse off whatever sins

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and mistakes that one might

have committed during the past year. In recent times, to c u l t u r e c u l t u r e make things more conven- ient, it was decided that instead of going from vil- lage to village, a bigger fes- tival could be organised at a central place, where people from every village could A Theravada religious performance; the cock fight dance (facing page) b u d d h i s m

meet and celebrate togeth- er. This plan is followed to daily-use articles as ritual big cultural event in the

this day. gifts to the monks and Theravada Buddhism. f e s t i v a l s Every year, the poi chong, hoping, in return, to t h e r a v a d a moves to a new village, be well taken care of and Poi Pee Mau where all Buddhists arrive to receive prosperity in their Late November-–early pay their respects to the future births. December monks, gurus and elders, The host village builds a This is a relatively recent meet friends and relatives, Toan Patesa (money tree), centralised festival meant to cleanse themselves of sins which people decorate with unite Tai people, celebrated and mistakes committed not just currency notes, but as a cultural extravaganza of during the year. also small gifts and utility performing arts, costume Thousands of Buddhists objects from fountain pens dances, songs and feasting. arrive at a central location, to matchboxes, books and Pee Mau is not exactly part with all sorts of offerings handkerchiefs, anything. of pure Buddhist tradition, such as food, money and This festival of giving is a but certainly worth a visit. n

68 69 The Theravada Buddhist spirituality

& monasteries

Buddhist Chongs spiritual counsel or interven- c u l t u r e The Buddhist temples, tion to solve their problems chongs, and their bhantes through rituals, they gift rit- (monks) are at the core of ual offerings to the bhantes, everyday culture and daily who then conduct ceremo- life in the Tai Khamti villag- nies for them at the chong. es. Every morning the bhantes go to seek alms in Chongkham the village, and every Chong Long Chongkham / householder is happy to Chongkham Buddha monasteries give something to these Vihara seekers on the path of Chongkham was once said enlightenment, with the to be one of the richest vil- belief that they too receive lages around, and the name some karmic points in the itself translates into ‘temple whole process. of gold’. The monastery While the village sup- here is literally just that: the ports the chong and its whole compound is full of ascetic bhantes for their golden structures, roofs, material needs, the bhantes pagodas and sculptures, a support lay people in spirit- look that’s further drama- ual matters. When tised around sunset. The Buddhists are in need of chong at Chongkham is

71 Photographs by sanjiv valsan locally known as the ‘Chong older stilted chongs at Long Chongkham’ (main Phaneng, Empong and Chongkham temple). There Momung, the current struc- are four holy Setang days ture at Chongkham is quite spirituality spirituality every month, when prayers ornate. Inside the com-

& & pound are several golden are offered, which fall on full

moon, new moon, and two pagodas (locally known as other days in between. kongmus), with little carv- c u l t u r e c u l t u r e More modern and ings of the Buddha in their Burmese in style than the niches, and idols illustrating situations from the Buddha’s The Buddha at Chongkham lifetime. Particularly impres- sive is a giant reclining Buddha dressed in gold. Between prayer sessions, b u d d h i s m

playful little novice monks Reclining Buddha statue at Chongkham kongmu play hide and seek behind all these pagodas, breaking (, 15km) and Peace Pagoda is closed shut monasteries the seriousness of it all. Sundays are the big market in the regular course, and t h e r a v a d a days at Namsai town, when opened during the Sangken Local markets there is probably the maxi- festival or when groups of Monday, Tuesday and Friday mum variety available. monks come to meditate, are local market days at often from places as far Chongkham Bazaar (Friday River Island Meditation away as Thailand. is the big day), when tribal Centre, Chongkham However, if you’re willing sellers arrive from their vil- The meditation centre in the to play things by ear and lages with farm fresh and river island at Chongkham is manage regarding the lan- wild produce and some- affiliated to the main guage barrier, there are times even local handicrafts. Buddha Vihara across the 10-day Buddhist Vipassana Wednesdays are market river (the Chong Long meditation courses offered days at the Medo village Chongkham). The World at the River Island’s little-

72 73 spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e b u d d h i s m

monasteries t h e r a v a d a

74 75 known traditional medita- periods, or meditate with tion centre. Contributions more relaxed rules. are voluntary, like most A warning: The courses courses of this kind. here are attended by local spirituality spirituality Stay can be managed, villagers from nearby, so the

& & facilities are naturally not

especially if you’re willing to

cook your own food, or find ‘outsider-oriented’, unlike a homestay in the village. the internationally standard- c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Just as other Vipassana ised Vipassana meditation courses, a basic rule is no centre in Mudoi. The monks speaking, reading, writing, here say that everyone is cell phones, etc., for the welcome to meditate here, duration of the course. irrespective of where they Older people get conces- might come from. One big sions, and can sit for shorter difference between a A bhante (Buddhist monk) at the River Island Meditation Centre b u d d h i s m

meditation course in a place World Peace Pagoda like this and a Vipassana monks here might not be TENGAPANI centre is the cultural appeal. able to speak to you about Kongmu Kham monasteries This is living, breathing course details while they (Golden Pagoda) t h e r a v a d a Buddhist Vipassana culture, have taken oaths of silence! Built on a plateau overlook- unlike the more religiously The meditation courses ing the plains and the neutral and secular centre at are held during Varsha Vas, Eastern Himalayas, the Mudoi (which is more the auspicious Buddhist Kongmu Kham (Golden convenient to plan). The retreat months, generally Pagoda) is one of the most biggest challenge with falling between the full noticeable landmarks as you planning a course at the moon of mid-July and enter Namsai town through River Island is that the September. Tengapani on the highway course dates are only For basic information on itself. Though the Kongmu announced after mid-July. course schedules, call monk Kham has become an iconic What compounds it even Sasana Bhiku after mid-July symbol of Theravada more is that very often on 09383347308. Buddhism in Eastern

76 77 Arunachal and probably the plex sprawls over around 20 most photographed struc- hectares, with neatly mani- ture in these parts, the cured lawns, a pond, walk- pagoda complex and its ing paths, an orchid centre spirituality spirituality sprawling lawns were built with exotic species brought

& & from Thailand, Meditation as recently as 2010.

Inside the pagoda is a Centre, meant for Vipassana Bronze Buddha statue that meditation courses, a c u l t u r e c u l t u r e was gifted by the chief Buddhist library, hall, living monk from a wat (temple) in quarters, and an old-age Thailand. The whole com- home. The meditation centre is Kongmu Kham (Golden Pagoda) well-equipped in terms of built infrastructure along with accommodation. The lush environs of the Golden Pagoda b u d d h i s m

Experien-ced meditators can speak to the manage- to talk to travellers who Malaysia and Myanmar, and ment and take permission if might be curious about the a lot of cultural displays by monasteries they wish to use the premis- traditions followed here. He artists from all these coun- t h e r a v a d a es for longer unguided is also the one you’d need tries, along with those of meditations for 10-day peri- to speak with to access the the Tai Khamti artists. This is ods. With a resort conven- library and other facilities. a good time to visit. iently attached next door, During the first weeks of Being a high-profile this is the most visitor- November, the Kathina monastery, celebrations of friendly Theravada Buddhist Robe Ceremony (Kathina every festival at the Golden temple around. Civara Dhana), a ritual offer- Pagoda happen on a rela- The head monk, who ing of red robes to monks tively grand scale. speaks several languages, by lay people is a big event The Golden Pagoda is including English, Thai and at Kongmu Kham, and has located at a distance of Burmese, is quite friendly, in the past attracted monks 20km from Namsai town and often takes the time out and visitors from Thailand, on NH15.

78 79 Momong metres from the Golden This is one of the oldest Pagoda, making it a nice Theravada monasteries walking trip if you’re staying constructed in 1918 with at the Golden Pagoda Eco- spirituality spirituality some old bronze Buddha Resort. For people who love

& & beautiful old Bodhi trees at statues that were brought

from Myanmar sometime in monasteries, the one at the late-19th century. In Momong will certainly c u l t u r e c u l t u r e addition, there are many impress you. smaller figurines here. Momong is a good way Momong is also one of the to experience the late older villages in the area, phase of the older style of and it’s just a couple of kilo- Tai Khamti architecture, the one between the stages of Momong monastery bamboo and thatch temples b u d d h i s m

and the extravagant new A house constructed in the Khampti architectural style, Momong Thai-Burmese style. is opened and the pages tion here. Once a year, dur- monasteries Phaneng are turned. The story goes ing the Sangken festival, the t h e r a v a d a The Phaneng monastery, that it was written by a reli- likh is opened, but the 14km from Namsai, might gious devotee who put all pages are still never turned. not be the most visually his heart and soul into writ- On every full moon day, impressive of the chongs in ing it, animating it with his prayers are held for the the area, but it’s an old and own devotion in the book. revered monastery, attract- process. The book is now Phaneng is 20km from ing Buddhist devotees from no longer opened to avoid Namsai town. everywhere. It is said that a hurting it, but people still religious text (likh) stored come and offer prayers and Piyong here, called the offerings to the likh, hoping The Dhammarakkhita Vihar ‘Dhammasangkhani for their wishes to be ful- at Piyong (en route to Sutongpe’, bleeds when it filled; this is the main attrac- Phaneng from Namsai) has

80 81 one Singpho and one Tai According to the head Khamti village nearby, with monk, this tree is a both Buddhist tribes sharing descendant of the pipal tree the same temple. What at Bodhgaya, where the spirituality spirituality makes Piyong stand out is Buddha meditated and

& & attained enlightenment. an inspiring little pagoda

that has been fashioned out Piyong is 20km from Namsai of the roots of a large Bodhi town, on the road to c u l t u r e c u l t u r e tree, which has obviously Phaneng. been grown with a lot of care, with cement pillars Dhamma Aruna Vipassana erected in some spots to Meditation Centre, Mudoi, support its heavy branches. Changlang Affiliated to the internation- The bhante at Dhammarakkhita Vihar, Piyong A structure in Phaneng al chain of Vipassana medi- b u d d h i s m

tation centres started by SN held once a year, generally Singpho monasteries, is Goenka, Dhamma Aruna in the month of May. near Bordumsa village, and teaches Vipassana, a Near the Mudoi checkpost, is said to have been origi- monasteries Buddhist but secular, old- Changlang district. nally constructed around t h e r a v a d a school meditation technique 1870. Around 400 religious that was preserved for cen- Singphos and Tikak Tangsa texts in Tai script are pre- turies in the region between monasteries served here. Guju village, Eastern Arunachal Pradesh Tangsa tribes, like the Tikaks 3km from Bordumsa, has and Myanmar. of Changlang, practice two Buddhist monasteries As far as Vipassana cen- Theravada Buddhism. Every from the 1800s. tres go, this is a small one, Singpho tribal village gener- The Buddha monastery with a limit of 40 people per ally has a monastery, which in Kherem Bisa village, batch. For experienced they call ‘thang’ or ‘kyang’. Changlang district, dates Vipassana meditators, there The older temples are built back to 1890, and all the is also a ‘Sati Pattan’, an of timber and thatch. festivals of the Singphos are eight-day serious course Venuban, one of the oldest celebrated here.

82 83 Empong elders built a shrine for the One of the most important idol at Empong, and since Buddhist chongs in then, it has acquired a repu- Arunachal Pradesh, Empong tation of having granted

is famed for its wish-fulfilling wishes to a lot of people. spirituality

There have also been &

Buddha idol, known as the Phra Sutong Pe (Wish- reports of people seeing fulfillment deity), which the whole shrine glowing at

attracts devotees from as far dawn, and so on. Over the c u l t u r e away as Assam. It is said years, the wooden idol has that if you come with a pure been painted and heart, you can ask the Phra embossed with special Sutong Pe for anything you Burmese gold leaves. need, and it will be granted. Empong village itself is According to local leg- at least three or four hun- end, this wooden idol had dred years old, so the miraculously survived a chong should be about the huge fire in another monas- same age. The current monasteries tery, and was found by a chong is something of a Singpho farmer far away hybrid structure that was from the original site of the built some 70 years ago and fire. The farmer innocently later modified; cement plas- asked the idol to keep the ter overlap has been super- birds away from his field, imposed on the old bam- which it did. The news boo and timber construction spread and some people more recently but it still has came and recognised the an old feel. The chong is statue as the one that had built in a sort of Burmese been burnt in the fire. crossover style that came Deeming its reappearance after the (now-extinct) fully miraculous, the village bamboo chongs of the past,

85 and before the more ornate Myanmar, before arriving in Thai-Burmese Buddhist tem- Northeast India in the 1600s ple architecture seen in and 1700s. most chongs today. Architecture and spirituality spirituality Khamtis seem to see this mythology aside, Empong is

& & also one of the more ‘new style’ as a revival of

their own culture, rather interesting chongs from a than the adoption of a new ‘slow travel’ perspective. c u l t u r e c u l t u r e one, because the Tai people The quiet riverside location have anyway gone through of the chong is charming a history of migrations and serene, as is the nearby through China, Thailand and Empong village, a friendly Tai Khamti hamlet with a A kongmu (pagoda) at Empong population of only 55 people, most of whom live b u d d h i s m

in traditional huts, with spread-out habitations, A view from the banks of the Teang River separated by paddy fields monasteries that produce the famous Tai pasa, a special soup made auspicious bath. Post rice- t h e r a v a d a Khamti sticky rice. with raw fish and green harvest (November- Gastronomes might want leaves, and all sorts of December) would be a to spend a few days in a exotic dishes made with the good time for catching ritu- local home at Empong to legendary sticky rice. al dance drama and theatre try the local food and expe- A good time to visit performances. rience rural Tai Khamti cul- Empong is during the Empong is 7km from ture. People here still forage Sangken Water Festival Chongkham, the nearest in the forest and prepare (April 14–16), when thou- major town. For homestays rare Tai delicacies such as sands of Buddhists from far in Empong, contact the onklok (a flavourful algae away villages come to Gambura (village headman) found on riverside rocks) Empong to witness the Phra Chow Jigdra Lungkeing during December to March; Sutong Pe being given an (08974872285). n

86 87 Theravada Buddhist resources in Changlang and Namsai districts Ashoka Vihara, Rima, Changlang Phone: 09436049474 Address: Rima village, , E-mail: [email protected] Changlang District Arunachal spirituality

Pradesh-792123 Solungtoo Buddhist Temple &

Affiliation: Tikhak Buddhist Society Address: Village Solungtoo, Arunachal Phone: 09436049474 Pradesh-792103 E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 09436052072 c u l t u r e Bordumsa Buddha Vihar, Bordumsa Tikhak Taipy Dhamma Jyoti Vihara Address: Bordumsa, Changlang Dist. Address: Village Tikhak Taipy, Arunachal Pradesh-792056 , Changlang District, Phone: 09863414798/09854266436 Arunachal Pradesh-792122 E-mail: [email protected] Affiliation: Tikhak Buddhist Society Phone: 09436049474 Dhammarajika Buddhist Vihara, E-mail: [email protected] Jairampur b u d d h i s m Address: Kovin Village, Jairampur, Arunachal Pali Vidyapith and Tai- Changlang District, Arunachal Pradesh Khamti Singpho Museum -792121 Courses in Pali language. The campus Affiliation: Tikhak Buddhist Society also has a museum-cum-research cen- Phone: 09436049474 tre, which has some old Pali Buddhist t h e r a v a d a E-mail: [email protected] scripts; and a guesthouse that pro- and [email protected] vides accommodation to travellers if booked well in advance. Jyotsnapur Rapovan Buddha Vihara Address: Chongkham, , Address: Jyostnapur Village, Diyun Arunachal Pradesh-792104 TAWANG Changlang District, Arunachal Phone: 09862694757/07005473293 Pradesh-792103 09862694757/07005473293 E-mail: [email protected] W apvschongkham.com/ FESTIVAL Old Champu Shanti Sukha Maha Vihara Namsai Buddha Vihara Arunachal pradesh Address: Village Old Champu, Miao, A big Buddhist monastery in Namsai Changlang District, Arunachal Pradesh town; Address: PO Namsai, Arunachal Department of Tourism -792122 Pradesh Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Affiliation: Tikhak Buddhist Society n Phone: 03806262331 Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 88 Mahayana Buddhism spirituality

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The Mahayana Buddhist pantheon of Bodhisattvas, tribes of Arunachal Pradesh mountain gods and a

are mostly concentrated mythology around tantric, c u l t u r e around the western parts of reincarnation, magic and the state (Monpas, enlightenment themes. All Sherdukpen and Bugun this shows in their highly tribes of West Kameng and expressive art, literature, Tawang), but smaller tribes theatre, opera, dances and are also found around the music.These tribes use the b u d d h i s m northern and eastern pock- Tibetan script and have a ets near the Tibetan bor- lot in common with Tibetan ders, like Mechuka (Memba and Bhutanese cultures tribe) and Tuting (Khamba across the international tribe) towards the north, border. The Monpa m a h a y a n a and and in Buddhists are known for the east (the Meyors). their evolved sense of ‘eco- Unlike the Theravada spirituality’, and nature Buddhists of Eastern conservation is central to Arunachal, their culture is a the religion. mix of Buddhism, animism and Bon, the pre-Buddhist Buddhist gompas Tibetan religion, rich in The gompa, or the Buddhist spirits and benevolent monastery, is typically the demons and heavenly epicentre of religion, art characters who join the and culture. Their designs

91 shutterstock are generally striking, religion and philosophy, but embellished with sensory also a tradition of debates aids like vibrant interiors, and discussion, vocal and music, fragrant incense, instrumental music, theatre, spirituality spirituality prayer wheels, flags, vivid thangka art, sculpture, man-

& & tras and mandalas, tantric

paintings and inspiring hill-

top locations, with decora- practices and meditation. tion styles that paradoxically Gompas become the most c u l t u r e c u l t u r e combine exuberance with natural and convenient religiosity. The gompas are starting point for planning a where monks grow up as cultural tour in these parts. apprentices and train to be gurus, and Buddhists are Gaden Namgyal Lhatse exposed to not just direct (The Tawang Monastery) Popularly known as the b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

A budding monk in Tawang Tawang Monastery, this is easily Arunachal’s most visit- Interiors of the main prayer hall, Tawang Monastery ed spot, which isn’t surpris- ing, considering that it’s the live up to the hype once books are printed on hand- m a h a y a n a largest monastery in India, you enter. The Tawang made paper using wooden m a h a y a n a and the second-largest in Monastery has two entranc- print-blocks. The library has the world, next to the es, one from the side of the a collection of books on Potala Palace in Lhasa. With library and the other near tantric Buddhism, Tibetan its expansive sprawl, strik- the museum, which houses festivals, several dictionar- ingly yellow roofs and several artefacts including ies, glossaries, the Dalai imposingly towering loca- 18th-century wooden dance Lama’s teachings among tion, watching over Tawang masks, musical instruments others. As can be expected town almost protectively, and statues of the Buddha. for a monastery of this size Tawang Monastery certainly There is also a traditional and stature, there are sever- makes a lasting first impres- manual printing press in the al impressive Buddhist sion, and then goes on to monastery, where religious paintings, mandalas, idols sanjoy ghosh

92 93 spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

m a h a y a n a m a h a y a n a

94 95 Photographs by sanjiv valsan and decorative details all on festival during the second the premises, and monks of week of January, with danc- all ages can be seen going ers performing in flamboy- about their daily routines ant costumes and wearing spirituality spirituality and classes. oversized masks. Torgya is

& & also when the monastery’s The monastic costume

dances at Tawang (cham) collection of old thangkas, are important to Monpa cul- Buddhist stories lavishly c u l t u r e c u l t u r e ture; as many as 22 different painted on handmade cloth kinds of cham are per- with stone-based pigments, formed here during Torgya, are displayed to the public. an annual Monpa Buddhist Some of these are between 400 and 1,000 years old, A dancer in Tawang and impressively, their colours haven’t faded at all. b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

The Snow Lion dance is The Snow Lion dance at Tawang performed here during (Tibetan New Year) tume dances on the streets groves of the Monpas from and other festive occasions. of Tawang town (held projects that destroy forests. m a h a y a n a The legend goes that once between October 26–29). It also manages huge tracts m a h a y a n a a saint named Tenteling was The Tawang Monastery is of land, including environ- meditating on Mount more than just a monastery; mentally important high-alti- Gangri-Karpo. Impressed by it’s an institution that man- tude wetlands that it main- his religiosity, the two snow- ages some 17 other monas- tains as sacred groves. lions living there offered teries, where it sends him their milk, and the three trained and competent The Ani Gompas of them became good monks to work as caretak- (Buddhist nunneries) friends. The three-day ers. It is also a guardian of What makes the nuns of ‘Tawang Festival’, a tourism the forests here, and monks Tawang special is that event, is another good time from here have led move- there’s no social compul- to catch lots of such cos- ments to save the sacred sion, tradition or pressure to

96 97 become a nun, nor is it Monastery, with some 50 compulsory to send a child nuns, is affiliated to the to a nunnery. These girls do Tawang Monastery, from it of their own accord, shave where it receives support. spirituality spirituality their heads, refrain from At the Ani Gompa, every

& & visitor is greeted with a cup jewellery and beautiful

clothes, and live a hard life of local ‘butter tea’. When out of a personal commit- the nuns aren’t busy with c u l t u r e c u l t u r e ment to the Path. their routine duties or chant- One of the oldest nun- ing in the main prayer hall, neries in the area, the they’re happy to share their Gyangong Ani Gompa, stories. You can get to the 5km from the Tawang foot of the gompa by a sce- nic 20-minute cable car ride Old market, Tawang from the Tawang Monastery b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

when weather conditions Chanting is a day-long activity for many Monpa Buddhists and power availability per- mit. A road also leads to a can be simultaneously shy Singsur Ani Gompa houses point from where it’s a half- and friendly. If you request about 40 nuns. This gompa m a h a y a n a hour hike to the top. Both respectfully, you could be was built by Rev. Gonpatse m a h a y a n a routes provide great views. allowed a walkthrough of Rimpoche in 1960. Located at a spectacular the living quarters and wit- location in the hills 9km ness their daily lives as they Urgelling Gompa, Tawang from Tawang and accessible pray, study, chop firewood, Located at a distance of by road, the small but cook, churn yak butter and 3km from Tawang town, this charming Brahma Dung scrub the courtyard. The place is believed to be the Chung Ani Gompa was smell of pine and cedar birthplace of His Holiness established in 1595 CE by incense wafting through the the 6th Dalai Lama, the Karchen Yeshi Gelek place adds to the ambi- Tsangyang Tashi, who was Lama from the Tsang prov- ence. Around 28km towards born in 1683. The main hall ince of Tibet. The nuns here the west from Tawang, of the gompa has nine

98 99 shutterstock chortens within it, at which accumulate good karma. special prayers are per- Around 85km from Tawang, formed on important occa- the Zemithang Valley has sions. Considering its histor- the largest stupa in the spirituality spirituality ical importance, this gompa region, the Gorsam

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keeps a low profile and sees Chorten, built during the

very few visitors and monks. 12th century CE. This is a replica of the stupa of c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Zemithang Boudhanath in Nepal. Every Buddhists believe that by year, in the month of March, rotating prayer wheels and the Gorsam Kora festival circumambulating chortens (also known as the (stupas/domes) whenever Zemithang Mela) happens they find time, they can here, when you’ll get to see everyone in the village A Monpa woman rolling the prayer wheels of Tawang Gompa b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

Urgelling Gompa come out in their traditional finery. The actual chorten is produce through Bleteng, seventh century, Lhagyala opened for public viewing the last Monpa village bor- gompa is older than even once every 12 years during dering Bhutan, for centuries. the Tawang monastery and m a h a y a n a the Khathing festival. At Dolma Lhakang is a huge is culturally important. The m a h a y a n a statue of Zetsun Dolma, the monastery is situated on the Lumla White Tara, goddess of mountainside overlooking International borders have compassion, who rose from the Domkho-Morshing divided the Monpas the first tear of compassion valley. The term ‘lhagyala’ between three countries: shed by Bodhisattva means ‘repository of over a India, Tibet and Bhutan. Avalokiteswara. hundred large icons’. Lumla is 45km from Tawang The gompa hit the head- town, close to the Bhutan Lhagyala gompa, lines recently when it set a border. Bhutanese villagers Morshing model example of Buddhist have been coming to Lumla Having been established by values, by converting 85 sq and Tawang to sell their the Kachen Lama in the km of its forest land, which lasya nadimpally

100 101 lasya nadimpally extends up to the Sakteng Community Conserved Area wildlife sanctuary in Bhutan, (MLCCA). into a community-conserved area, resulting in an impor- spirituality spirituality tant trans-national high-alti- Dirang village, or Dirang

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tude protected corridor for , as it is locally known, basti wildlife. The Mon-Lhagyala is the old and more interest- Buddhist Cultural Society ing part of Dirang. At c u l t u r e c u l t u r e (MLBCS) and the Kalaktang Dirang Dzong, the medieval Tsopa, a collective of more fortified section where than 20 villages, together people still live in 500-year- declared the forested land old cold-proof stone hous- as the Mon-Lhagyala es, you can sometimes see Monpa women weaving Monpa women their own textiles by hand, b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

and even spinning their own The New Gompa in Dirang stands atop a hill overlooking the town woollen yarn. The dzong isn’t in great shape, com- Also known as the prayer hall. The prayer hall pared to the dzongs of Thupsung Dhargye Ling is surrounded by well-mani- m a h a y a n a Bhutan or even the nearby Monastery, construction on cured gardens and path- m a h a y a n a Thembang village, but the New Gompa began in ways that are flanked by Dirang basti has an endear- the year 2008 and was com- multiple rows of prayer ing old-world charm about pleted in 2016. It was con- wheels. The walking path it, especially if you stay for a secrated by the Dalai Lama that begins near the prayer few days without ‘sightsee- on April 5, 2017. Built upon hall runs all the way to the ing’ goals. The Kalachakra a hill with an excellent view edge of the cliff on which Gompa, above Kalachakra of the entire town, this the monastery sits. village, near Dirang, is spe- monastery is a haven of cial, since it’s over 500 years peace and serenity. Take the old. Not too many tourists slope from the parking lot The town has three monas- visit it though. which leads to the main teries: the Upper, Middle

102 103 lasya nadimpally and Lower Gompa. The Lower Gompa stands at the beginning of the Bazaar Lane. Beyond the Bazaar, spirituality spirituality the road goes uphill, lead-

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ing to the Middle Gompa,

located on the face of a hill and visible from miles away. c u l t u r e c u l t u r e The Upper Gompa, a repli- ca of the 15th-century Tsona Gontse Monastery in south- ern Tibet, with its intensely painted prayer wheel, is about 5km from the town centre. The Upper Gompa, b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

oldest among the three, involves the most climbing, Upper Gompa, Bomdila and has the best views. Practitioners of Tibetan interiors, great mountain m a h a y a n a medicine come here to pray views and a school for m a h a y a n a to the ‘Blue Medicine young Buddhist monks. The Buddha’, who is believed to monastery has a profusion help both the healers and of animal motifs and sculp- the sick here. tures adorning the walls.

Chilipam Gompa, Rupa The ‘Old Gompa’ of A worthwhile 12km detour Samten Yongcha, Mechuka from Rupa town in West The 16th-century ‘Old Kameng district, this is a Gompa’ of Samten two-storied monastery with Yongcha, near Mechuka, in ornate architecture and Arunachal Pradesh’s Shi

104 105 Yomi District, is one of the ting is beautiful, too—it’s oldest Buddhist gompas in perched on a hill overlook- the state. It is even older ing the Yarbak Tsu river than the more visited 17th- valley and snow-covered spirituality spirituality century Gaden Namgyal peaks like Tanzen La. The

& & isolated hilltop location of

Lhatse monastery at Tawang

(popularly known as the the place adds to the Tawang Monastery), but not serenity. c u l t u r e c u l t u r e so known outside the At the gompa, a region. Though most of the multitude of fluttering small wooden structure has multicoloured Buddhist been either rebuilt or reno- prayer flags, demonoid vated over the years, it does tantric idols, paintings and have that local feel. The set- masks really set the mood. The newer idols were made b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

A stupa at the ‘Old Gompa’ by Rinpoche Kunsang Buddhist deity at the gompa in Mechuka Dechen Rangdol, father of the present head lama of views of snow-covered reached from or Mechuka, and some of the mountains and pine forests, though private taxis and m a h a y a n a older relics, idols and which is more in keeping shared cabs, through a m a h a y a n a scriptures here are twice as with the spirit of the place. twice-a-week chopper serv- old as the gompa itself. ice from . Aalo is Most regular cars can’t Getting there further connected to the manage to make it up the The monastery is on a hill plains by road to dirt road leading to the near Segong village, about Murkongselek (142km/ gompa, so if you need to 14km from Mechuka town. 4hrs), the closest rail head, reach all the way up by Mechuka, a beautiful high- and Dibrugarh road, you’d need an SUV. A altitude valley close to the (256km/6.5hours) airport/ nicer way would be to just Indo-Tibetan border and railway station. Regular do the one-hour easy trek home to the Buddhist shared ‘Line Sumos’ ply to to the gompa and enjoy the Memba tribe, can be Aalo from both places.

106 107 large territory ruled by a tume dramas, whose ending descendant of the king of can be decided by the audi- Tibet, and has witnessed ence’s reaction, are still per- many wars in the past, lead- formed here, for the locals, spirituality spirituality ing to a high level of fortifi- and by the local artists.

& & cation. The story is that in Every Monpa house has

its heyday, large slabs a prayer room. Every morn- kept on top of the fort ing, they offer water in c u l t u r e c u l t u r e walls would fall on any bowls at the altar, light intruder who would try incense and butter lamps, to scale them. repeating the mantra of Avalokiteswara, ‘Om mane A living museum Padme hum’ several times. The Monpa tribals here still The main gompa on the live more or less self-suffi- b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

ciently in old-style tradition- Entry to Thembang Dzong The stone-edifice of Thembang Dzong al stone and timber houses built using locally sourced Thembang Heritage status. materials, and practice a m a h a y a n a With its medieval-era Since Thembang Dzong mix of Tibetan-style tantric m a h a y a n a indigenous stone architec- (fort) is believed to be Buddhism. Retaining many ture, dramatic landscapes constructed before 1100 of their ancient animist tra- and ancient culture, the CE, UNESCO believes that ditions, they also worship ancient fortified village this may very well be the nearby mountains like kingdom of Thembang in precursor to the more Lachung and Dumri as dei- Arunachal Pradesh’s West majestic Dzong architecture ties, and dedicate a ritual to Kameng district is one of Bhutan and Tibet, a them every seven years. of the state’s better-kept crossover cultural hub Operatic Monpa tribal secrets, and this village between these areas and costume dance dramas like is currently contending Northeast India. Thembang the Yak dance and the long for UNESCO World was once the capital of a and elaborate Aji Lamu cos-

108 109 hill might be a new struc- sional offerings of Mirinda ture, but it’s a very impor- bottles and biscuit packets tant one, and traditional in to the deities. terms of practices and cere- spirituality spirituality monies, especially the Eco-cultural Buddhism

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Tibetan-style polyphonic The Monpas of Thembang

chanting that accompanies are also highly advanced in some of the ceremonies. organic farming, which has c u l t u r e c u l t u r e The only signs of modernity always given them all the here are the satellite dishes food they ever needed. In on some of the primitive their forests you’ll see stone houses, and the occa- mounds of fallen oak leaves gathered in every corner, A Buddhist stupa which they use as compost to grow their crops as well b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

as a natural weedicide and pest-repellent. These are ideas that modern ‘permac- Churning yak butter the traditional way ulture’ has only just begun m a h a y a n a to grasp. and mushrooms and even like Chander, Lagam and m a h a y a n a The village has preserved strawberries can be a medi- Mago, is where the Brokpa its wild areas as a sacred tative and immersive way of country begins. The Brokpa, forest, knowing that they engaging with the land, and a yak-herding community of provide food and medi- nearly any local guide nomads, maintain regular cines, and maintains the 312 should be able to take you relations with the people of sq km of wilderness at an through a wild foods forag- Thembang, bartering yak altitude ranging from ing walk, since most people milk, butter, churpi (yak 1,500m to 7,000m, as a in Thembang have good cheese) and yak meat with Community Conserved knowledge of wild plants. the corn, barley, buckwheat Area. Foraging in the forest Further up from and dry red chilli grown for wild vegetables, fruits Thembang, around villages here. Plan a long stay, and

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e

A spectacular sunset from Thembang b u d d h i s m b u d d h i s m

trek to these high-altitude Where to stay meadows, all the way up to This is where it gets inter- the snow-covered Sela Pass esting: Thembang has an and beyond, to spend time active community-based m a h a y a n a with this community. tourism project, which m a h a y a n a promotes very reasonably How to reach priced homestays in charm- The nearest railway station ing traditional-style stone is at Tezpur, roughly 151km and timber homes, with from Bomdila, the closest spacious old rooms and transport hub. The nearest excellent hosts. Contact international airport from Sang Dorjee (09402986769) Bomdila is Guwahati, for bookings. Tsetan Jurme 309km. Local taxis and (094362 36001) also runs a buses ply from both the rail- great homestay here and heads and the airport. can cook Monpa food. n

112 113 hinduism in arunachal spirituality

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Arunachal Pradesh is prima- the newly-created state of c u l t u r e rily a tribal and Buddhist Arunachal Pradesh. There is state, and doesn’t have a some controversy regarding dominant influence of the date and the builder of Hinduism in its contempo- the fort. Scholars earlier rary or indigenous cultures. ascribed the fort to Further, Hindu references Ramchandra of the Jitari don’t figure in any of the dynasty, dated 1350–1450 elaborate tribal oral history CE. More recently, Lila records. However, a series Gogoi, an authority on the h i n d u i s m of archaeological excava- Buranjis of Assam, attributed tions around southern parts it to Ahom King Chakradhvaj of the state, close to Assam, Simha in 1688 CE. have attracted the attention Excavated artefacts found at of both Hindu pilgrims and are on display at the archaeology enthusiasts; Jawaharlal Nehru Museum in hence a Hindu pilgrim cir- Itanagar. The fort is in ruins cuit was born. now, and is of mainly aca- Ita Fort: These are the demic interest. remnants of the brick walls : Near the of a fort after which Itanagar Assam-Arunachal border in town was named when it the West , the was built as a capital city for site has temple ruins dating

115 Courtesy arunachal pradesh tourism back to the 10th and 14th Bhismaknagar: Falling centuries CE of sculptural under the jurisdiction of and architectural value. the Guwahati circle of the Some theorise that this was Archaeological Survey of spirituality spirituality where Lord Krishna once India (ASI), this brick for-

& & tress is believed to have

stopped to rest, and was

offered flowers by Goddess been built by the Bhismaka Parvati on his journey to dynasty of the Chutiya c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Dwarka. Interesting artefacts kingdom that had a strong- from Malinithan, such as hold in the Sadiya region sculptures recovered from of present-day Assam and the site, are displayed at the the foothills of Arunachal Jawaharlal Nehru Museum Pradesh between the 12th in Itanagar. and 16th centuries CE. Parasuram Kund: This is The Shivalinga on Kardo Hill a Hindu pilgrimage centre Parasuram Kund dedicated to sage h i n d u s i m Parshuram (one of Lord Kardo Hill Temple smaller rock adjacent to it, h i n d u i s m Vishnu’s avatars) located on Earlier, one had to trek for which is considered to be a the Brahmaputra plateau in two hours to reach Kardo form of Goddess Parvati. the southern reaches of the Hill, which has a large rock Lohit River, the kund is that resembles a Shivalinga. Menga Cave about 48km away from Locals used to hike to the A natural cave high up on a Tezu in Lohit district. Since area and circumambulate hill, the Menga Cave is it is believed that taking a the hill. Now, a road has accessed by steps and is dip in the holy water here been constructed that gets dedicated to Lord Shiva. It cleanses one of sins, hun- you to the hill in 15 min- is a place deeply revered dreds of devotees from utes. The Shivalinga here is by Hindus and draws the Nepal and India come here about 7.5m in height and devout especially during to take a dip on the day of has a circumference of Makar Sankranti and Makar Sankranti in January. about 6.5m. There is a Shivratri. It’s near . lasya nadimpally

116 117 Dangaria Baba Temple natural forces) travelling According to the priest of along this road doesn’t for- Dangaria Baba Temple, the get to offer prayer to reason for establishing the Dangaria Baba Mandir for a

spirituality Dangaria Baba temple dates safe journey.

& back to1962 when a PWD Due to its popularity, the

engineer constructing the numbers of pilgrims visiting Pasighat- road had a Dangaria Baba Temple mul-

c u l t u r e dream. In the dream, he was tiply every year. told to make Puja offerings at the temple’s location Akashiganga Temple where a small Shiva Linga One of the best-known was found. Hindu pilgrimage sites in It was also said that the Arunachal, this temple is engineers and travellers located 12km from often came across a big Malinithan towards Aalo. cobra, testifyng to construct According to Hindu mythol- h i n d u i s m the Mandir. Moreover, when ogy, one of the parts of Sati, the construction along Lord Shiva’s consort, fell in Pasighat-Pangin road was in this location. It’s believed to progress, several men and be the head, making it machines met with acci- sacred to Shakti worship- dents, reasons for which pers. There’s a holy water were beyond the wisdom of tank here, about 100m from earthly beings. However, the the temple. A sparkling rate of accidents went down object is said to appear in Mopin to almost nil after the temple the tank from a distance, was constructed. but disappears once one Arunachal pradesh So, with that belief, every gets closer. Devotees from Witness the enchanting celebration of the agricultural festival of Mopin, believer of Dangaria (locally all over turn up to witness primarily observed by the Galo tribe in East and West Siang districts Department of Tourism called ‘Epom’ or unseen this phenomenon. n Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] 118 follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm wedding bells!

Tribal weddings are very many tribes, part of this can spirituality

be mithuns and livestock, & different from the big fat weddings of mainland India, with some mithuns being and far less formal. In many sacrificed at the wedding

tribes, the couple getting itself to feed the gathering. c u l t u r e married may have already Both sides generally gift been formally engaged or each other valuables at a living together for years wedding, including valuable before the actual ‘wedding, artefacts and antiques, an event where the clans of swords, old machetes both the bride and groom (daos), antique beaded bond and exchange gifts, jewellery and necklaces w e d d i n g s livestock and valuables to (tadok), livestock, handmade formalise their bond. loin loom textiles, dry fish or

The main purpose of the meat and lots of apong. t r i b a l formal wedding in most In tribes such as the tribes is the payment of a Nyishis and Tagins, the ‘bride price,’ which is the value of gifts exchanged on opposite of the dowry both sides is expected to system of mainland India. In be approximately equal for most tribal societies, which the formal wedding (nyidha) until recently followed a to be finalised. When these cashless economy, the exchanges are in kind, family of the groom needs assessment of value itself to give something in kind to can naturally involve a the bride’s family to lengthy round of formalise the wedding. In negotiations, with heated

121 Photographs by sanjiv valsan spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e w e d d i n g s w e d d i n g s

Adi women sing traditional Ponung folk songs during a nyidha; and the Nyishi tribe’s animist wedding customs t r i b a l debates and money an audience is an unusual other, in which these articles gunshots announce the t r i b a l calculations between but effective way for both themselves are animated groom’s arrivals and representatives of both clans to get to know each into characters to whom the departures, and everything clans in front of an audience other quickly and cement a former owners are allowed moves by the clock; during the day of the stronger relationship once to say goodbye. auspicious times are fixed wedding itself. Finally, after they come to an agreement. Adi weddings are less for every part of the inspecting and assessing There is also sometimes a about ceremony, or even process. The bride price the exchange value of these storytelling and chanting the bride or the groom, and isn’t claimed by the bride’s gifts as fair, an agreement is session by the fire devoted more about getting parents. Instead, various reached, and this seals the to the gift articles like old together as a community for groups related to the bride, marriage. Dancing and swords and antique bead some wonderful food, drink like her friends, aunts, celebrations then follow. necklaces, which have and bonding. cousins and even servants, This bargaining in front of moved from one clan to the In Tai Khamti weddings, all make kittangs (road

122 123 spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e ! b e l l s

w e d d i n g s

Snapshots from Tai Khamti weddings w e d d i n g t r i b a l blocks), where they playfully believed to have some of block the groom’s path and the best wedding food in demand money in jest, to the state. allow the groom to take the Wedding season for girl home. The groom’s side most tribes in Arunachal needs to bargain and settle Pradesh is from rice harvest each of these demands season (November) and through a mediator before ends before the rains begin they are allowed to pass to in March. This also coincides the next gang, and finally with many tribal festivals get to take the bride home. and bamboo house-building Tai Khamti weddings are season. n

124 125 arts & crafts

Weaving fabric by hand as and when spirituality

it is being woven. &

One aspect that is common to all the tribes of Arunachal Every tribe has a differ- Pradesh is their superb craft ent set of traditional pat-

skills. This is one of the few terns and colours. While c u l t u r e parts of the world where traditional motifs are still loin looms or back strap around, tribal weavers looms, known to be world’s have also been organically most primitive loom requir- experimenting with a ing extreme weaving skills, whole assortment of new are still used in textile mak- materials, colours, designs

ing. In back strap looms, and motifs, reinventing c r a f t s

& there is no real frame their aesthetic, resulting in because the weaver is the some truly spectacular and ‘loom’. With a few pieces of colourful designs ranging a r t s bamboo and sticks, rope from elegant subtlety to and a belt tied around their tastefully done neons and backs, the weavers simulta- metallic bling! Since mak- neously maintain fabric ing sarongs, waistcoats, tension and insert the yarn cloaks and jackets involve weave by weave for weeks, weeks of painstaking to create a textile with labour, they are under- extraordinary tribal motifs standably expensive, but and patterns. One speciality worth buying. A handmade of the loin loom is that it sarong woven by the Idu allows the weaver to bro- Mishmi women of Dibang cade designs into the Valley, who are among the

127 Photographs by sanjiv valsan spirituality spirituality

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c u l t u r e c u l t u r e c r a f t s c r a f t s

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A loin loom in use a r t s a r t s best weavers in Asia, could Arunachal Pradesh, but a far cost anywhere upwards of better way of acquiring `5,000, but even this is a them would be to go to the bargain for the skill and villages, meet the weavers, time involved in making make friends and buy each unique piece. directly from them. Ask your Loin loom textiles, hand- tour operator or local made tribal jewellery and friends to connect you to bamboo handicraft articles local artisans in the villages are available in the govern- who will be happy to show ment-run ‘craft centres’ at you their creations over a nearly every town in cup of chai.

128 129 House-building and covers to elaborate back- bamboo craft packs and fishing equip- Just as textile weaving is a ment. Every man is also female skill common to traditionally expected to spirituality spirituality every tribe in Arunachal know how to build a house

& & using locally sourced Pradesh, all men are tradi-

tionally expected to have materials such as bamboo, basket, cane and reed wood, stone and thatch c u l t u r e c u l t u r e weaving skills, using which roofs using elephant grass they make an astonishing and locally sourced leaves variety of utility objects, such as ‘toko’. Some tribes from baskets and machete such as the Galos are known

Constructing a house Every man in the village contributes during house-building c r a f t s c r a f t s

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to conduct rituals while host, meanwhile, keeps the replacing thatch roofs, since kitchen going and apong a r t s this is considered to be an (traditional grain wine) a r t s important custom. brewing for everyone con- During house-building stantly, which is quite a task season, most tribal people by itself. From a very young can build a stilted bamboo age, every young man longhouse in under four learns bamboo craft by days flat, including the helping his neighbours and invariably jolly house-build- sharpening his expertise in ing party. What makes this the process, while women possible is a strong sense of become expert vintners, community. When anybody especially since apong is needs to build a house, the used as sacred ritual wine in whole village helps out. The nearly every animist cere-

130 131 CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS (2019) Festival Tribe Date Si-Donyi Tagin January 6 spirituality spirituality Sarok Aka January 11

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Reh Idu Mishmi February 1 Donggin Adi February 2 Boori-Boot Yullo Nyishi February 6 c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Shapwang Yaung Manau Poi Singhpo February 14 Tam Ladu Digaru/Tarun-Mishmi February 15 Oriah Wancho February 16 Arunachal is known for some great crafts Nyokum Nyishi February 26

mony, which again will ble in most parts, useful for Unying-Aran Adi March 7 Mopin Galo April 5 c r a f t s involve bamboo craft to the hearth, hence is at the

c a l e n d a r

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build apong filters, totems centre of traditional homes. Pongtu Tutsa April 11 and baskets. Each of these To experience the Sangken Khamti/Singhpo April 14 a r t s weaving skills is always bamboo craft and house-

Longte Nyishi April 15 f e s t i v a l applied in other contexts, building culture of Moh-Mol Tangsa April 25 such as building makeshift Arunachal Pradesh, ask your shelters in the forest, com- tour operator or local Gumkum-Gumpa Puroik April 25 plicated traps and parapher- friends to take you to a Dree Apatani July 5 nalia for river fishing and tribal village during the Solung Adi September 1 hunting. Bamboo is central months between November Pham-Kho-Sowai Khowa (Bugun) September 10 to the tribes here. They use and February. Most animist Ke-Meh-ha Idu Mishmi September 24 it for building homes, bas- festivals have bamboo kets and holsters of various weaving as part of the pre- Chindang Miji October 15 kinds; they also eat it in sev- ritual preparations, so this is Nyethrii-Dow Aka (Hrusso) November 15 eral forms. It is the fastest also a good time to see Chalo-Loku Nocte November 25 combusting firewood availa- people working. n Podi-Barbi Adi December 5

132 133 3.417 mm Traditional Fishing techniques spirituality

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Long before nets, bait, and more warmth meant lines, shiny spoons and lures more fish. This led to an

were used to fish, the Tani ingeniously simple solution: c u l t u r e tribes of Arunachal Pradesh, lay a formation of flat stones especially the Galos, used in a neat, one metre-deep indigenous and sustainable circular formation in a quiet, river fishing techniques. shallow part of the river to Some of these practices create a warm, dark and

involve rituals and taboos, stony micro-habitat shelter fishing especially since some large that attracts algae, insects fish, such as the mahseer, and, with them, fish, prawns are believed to be the prop- and crabs, which then make erty of the yapoms, or this their home. This tech- the forest spirits, which nique, called Lipum (in the traditional humans borrow. Galo language) or Engo Using an understanding Lingkum (in some Adi dia- of the rivers and materials lects) is the mainstay of from the forest, the animist many riverside hamlets. Galos have developed doz- After two or three months, ens of interesting practices. the fish are ready to harvest. Removal of the fish also Lipum—Zen of fishing requires a bit of handicraft: Observing basic river fish the Galos use a long rectan- behaviour led to the under- gular mat, hand-woven with standing that more stones bamboo, cane and wild

135 Photographs by sanjiv valsan

vines called the ichir. They strips on the inner part of join this on two ends to the device don’t let them make a cylinder-shaped cir- leave. Once the lipum is cular ‘fence’ to surround the abundant with fish, crabs spirituality spirituality circular lipum, so that the and prawns, it is ready to

& & harvest, anything between

fish cannot escape once

they’re inside. It doesn’t four and 10kg of fish. The end there; there’s a hole in cost of lipum is literally zero, c u l t u r e c u l t u r e the ichir in which they insert since all that’s required is a an interesting handmade bunch of stones and conical bamboo device bamboo-weaving skills. called the idir, which allows A cross between trap- more fish from outside the hunting, fish farming and enclosure to enter, but once chess, lipum involves zen- fishing they’re in, bamboo gill-like like patience, strategy, fishing

observation skills and the Pole fishing at Boleng thrill of mystery. Tahum kunam, fishing for prawns, small fish and crustaceans The fish can be harvest- ed and smoke-dried on the Liite—Trap-fishing with flow, allowing the water to traditional hearth when ready; but currents move only through a few traditional sometimes, they are just left Liite is another technique spots, which form narrow in the lipum, and pulled out that uses the trapping prin- channels. Along the mouths whenever there are guests ciple of the conical idirs of each of these channels, a to entertain, just like meat described above, without wicker ‘takom,’ is strategi- in a refrigerator; only this luring the fish in any way. In cally placed overnight. This way is much fresher, cheap- liite, the fisherman traps the is a cleverly thought-out er and eco-friendly. fish as they move down- conical trap woven from Consider it a display of stream with the current. bamboo mesh with open- love when a Galo host The first step is to place ings on both ends. While unfolds a lipum feast in stones and boulders on the the wide mouth-end of the your honour! river’s course to obstruct its cone faces the current, let-

136 137 ting the fish inside, bamboo Pakam spoke-gills facing inwards ‘Pakam’ is lipum taken to don’t allow them to leave the next level, covering a the way they entered. The greater area and involving spirituality spirituality narrow end of the cone many more hands, forest

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allows only water to filter plant extracts, diving and

through the mesh, but not even spear-fishing. Leaves, the fish, effectively making stones and pebbles are first c u l t u r e c u l t u r e this device a funnel-shaped placed over a large part of filter-trap. The takom cone- the river, creating an attrac- traps are placed in the tive habitat for all sorts of evening, left overnight to fish like a giant lipum, and collect fish, and checked the left for a few months till the following morning. fish that settle down there fishing are ready to harvest. fishing

Cooking the day’s catch Tasks are then divided; while some people are put in charge of weaving the The bark of the wild taniir tree is used to stun fish momentarily ichir valves, idir bamboo traditional mats and fencing the whole fish. After pounding the hands make for a greater traditional enclosure with it, others taniir, they place it in the catch, so the whole prepare the material for the current, letting its opaque clan gets together—men, ‘Tam Diinam’, a technique toxin ooze out and flow women, kids, everyone, of stunning fish momentarily towards the fish inside the to grab as many fish as using neurotoxic forest enclosure. Soon enough, they can. plants like the toxic taniir the fish get slow, and easy tree, or rugdik fern. to spot and catch, even with Spear Fishing Men and boys of all ages bare hands. In contrast to the calm, cal- get together to pound the If you see a fish, you can culated and strategic taniir bark into a hairy pulp either grab it, or harpoon it approach of lipum, pakam is that they use to stun the with a bamboo spear. More far more active. Deeper sec-

138 139 tions of the enclosure away window period of intoxica- from grabbing distance are tion eventually sober up on where the people get to their own and return to their show their diving and daily lives. Fishing can be spirituality spirituality bamboo spear-fishing more selective this way. The

& & Noctes of Tirap also have a

prowess in icy cold water.

While the neurotoxin similar system of fishing (taam) in the pulp can stun using neurotoxic plants, c u l t u r e c u l t u r e fish of all sizes temporarily, it called ‘long taak’. doesn’t kill them, nor is the meat from taam-stunned fish Pole fishing poisonous for human con- As anglers, Galos make sumption. If the taam used their own poles with isn’t excessive, fish that are bamboo, and this technique fishing not caught during the short is called ‘ekar’, which is fishing

probably faster than bait- Preparations for cooking fish less trap-fishing techniques, Catch using the tahum kunam fishing style if all you need is a few fish, as quickly as possible. The Foraging for prawns small quantity of prawns, traditional interesting part of ekar is While the men do the heav- crabs, small fish and edible traditional the expedition for the bait ier stuff, Galo women are in local arthropods. The water in the forest because charge of the tahum kunam. drains out through the mesh grasshoppers, worms and A group sets out knee-deep on the raju, and all that’s larvae can only be found on along the length of a shal- now left to do is throw out specific trees. The jackpot in low stream carrying a large, all the rocks and keep the this hunt is sometimes a conical handmade cane or fish. Repeat, several times. small local tree, whose stem bamboo mesh each, called is typically infested with a raju, into which women Fishing dam parties worms. When split in the scoop pebbles, sand and Hibok Penam takes com- middle, it’s a wriggling, stones in a combined lot, munity fishing to a much pulsating warehouse of bait. and, along with them, a larger scale. The entire vil-

140 141 lage gets involved. The first step is to divert the flow of the river itself using stones, sand, leaf sheets spirituality spirituality and bamboo poles, and

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create a dam of stranded

fish. Then let the neurotox- ic tam diinam plants flow c u l t u r e c u l t u r e inside. A diving and har- pooning extravaganza fol- lows, with the fish totally disoriented. In the ‘female section’ of this shallow area, some women patient- fishing ly forage for prawns, crabs fishing

and smaller fish using raju bamboo baskets, tahum kunam style, while others prepare black Galo rice just a lot of work for food Using bamboo and other locally available products to catch fish traditional wine called poka and a security; it’s also a massive traditional third lot stuff the fish, riverside party and a cele- Where to experience Alternatively, once a prawns and other catch bration of community. Galo fishing year, in November, the into bamboo hollows with Traditional river fishing Basar Confluence (W basar king chillies and bamboo SEASON is practiced at many tribal confluence.org), a three-day shoot, roasting them villages in Arunachal Galo annual cultural show- directly on wood fire, as Lipum, tam diinam and trap Pradesh. With a little case festival, has an entire kids splash carefree in the fishing are done during the advance notice, your day dedicated to traditional water and teenagers steal winter season. Prawn forag- local tour guide or tour community fishing, during secret glances of their first ing (tahum kunam) and pole operator should be able which you can experience crush in this picnic-like set- fishing (ekar) are generally to organise an experience tribal Galo fishing at its ting. Hibok penam isn’t possible year round. for you. traditional best. n

142 143 travel essentials common language, since without a accommodation by a genuinely common tongue, none of these tribes hospitable tribal person you just met, THE PLACE Bhutan, China/ Tibet and Myanmar, would have been able to understand who refuses to accept money for it Arunachal Pradesh is over 81% forest along with a long history of exchange each other’s languages. English is also since it is against his culture and ethos – these include tropical, sub tropical, and migrations from each of these spoken in towns, since it’s the medium to charge for food or stay. So it helps spirituality spirituality

& & pine forests, temperate forests and places, and as far away as present-day of education. In Eastern Arunachal, to have a bunch of nice gifts ready in

alpine forests, along with several sub- Mongolia. Officially, there are 26 major some Assamese is also spoken. Since your bag to give away in such types. It is one of the world’s most tribes with over 100 ‘sub-tribes’ and there are so many tribes here, tribal situations; these will be happily c u l t u r e c u l t u r e unexplored biodiversity hotspots. dozens of languages, but in reality the festivals feature almost year-round, and accepted, and can sometimes go Climate varies with elevation (wide diversity is even more than these make for good bookmarks to plan an much better with the culture, unlike range between 50-7,000 mts msl), numbers suggest. Culturally and itinerary. Animist festivals, rituals and money. Alternatively, one could also ranging from humid subtropical, to geographically the state’s ethnics weddings almost invariably involve a buy handicrafts from them, since temperate, and cold, alpine at highest groups can be divided into some publicly visible animal sacrifice (it will nearly every woman in the villages is a elevations, where it can snow during broad categories – the Indo-Tibetan be eaten subsequently); the faint- textile weaver here, and most older winters. It experiences heavy rainfall of Mahayana Buddhist tribes such as the hearted might want to take note in men are adept at bamboo craft. In any 2000-4100mm annually. Rains begin Monpas, Sherdukpen, Brokpas and advance. Elderly people are highly case in some tribes, when you visit any e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

around February, but it’s most intense Membas; the animist Mishmi tribes respected in tribal societies, and senior old villager’s home, it is often between April and October. Most like the Idu Mishmis, Digaru Mishmis citizens have a good life compared to customary to bring small gifts in kind travellers plan their trip during the dry and Miju Mishmis; the ‘Tani Tribes,’ their urban counterparts. such as tea leaves, coffee, dry fish, dry t r a v e l t r a v e l winter months for obvious reasons, but such as the Nyishis, Apatanis, Galos, meat, etc; so it’s best to prepare flora tourism is year-round, since Tagins and various Adi tribes; and the Hospitality accordingly. At the end of your trip, if different species of course have Theravada Buddhists such as the The tribals of Arunachal are a warm, you have any extra gifts left, you could different flowering seasons. Butterfly Khamtis, Singphos; and the Indo- friendly, generous and cheerful lot, and give them away to villagers anyway tours will obviously follow a similar Burmese tribes close to the Myanmar in general homestays are far more just to make people happy, which pattern since butterfly diversity follows border like the Tangsa tribes, Nocte interesting than hotels. Tourism is still leads to new bonds, friendships and flower diversity. groups and Wanchos, who share raw, infrastructure is just about coming cultural exchange. cultural and ethnic similarities with up and creature comforts might not THE PEOPLE tribes in Nagaland and Myanmar. The always be possible in many places, but Safety To put the state’s diversity in major religions are Buddhism, this is all part of the adventure. You In general, this is a safer state for perspective, Arunachal Pradesh shares Christianity and various ethnic might even encounter situations where travellers (solo female travellers borders with Assam, Nagaland, animistic faiths. Hindi is used as a you will be offered food and homestay included) than many parts of India, and

144 145 robberies are extremely rare, especially Arunachal. These can be incredibly Guwahati airport and Ulubari, which is Getting in and out of Naharlagun in smaller towns and rural areas, and convenient, save lots of time and near the railway station in downtown railway station using public transport provided you exercise basic present great value for money; but Guwahati. Smartphone app-based all can be a confusing affair, especially for commonsense, it’s generally safe to safety and last-minute flight taxi services such as Ola and Uber are those catching early morning trains trust in the hospitality of locals you cancellations can be a concern during otherwise the cheapest and most from Naharlagun. At the Itanagar end spirituality spirituality

& & might meet. However, days typically rough weather. Additionally, you could reliable means to move around of things, the government-run APST

begin and end early here, and streets suddenly find that your booking stands Guwahati town till you make your bus service has a bus service running and lanes in bazaar areas of small cancelled due an emergency medical onward journey. to and from Naharlagun railway station c u l t u r e c u l t u r e towns are deserted late at night, so it’s case requiring quick transport. All and Itanagar/Naharlagun town, probably best not to pursue an things considered, it’s tricky to plan TRAINS coinciding with the departure and overactive nocturnal life in such areas. tight schedules relying on the chopper The most useful railways stations are arrival of major trains, but these are Villages are extremely safe, though. services during your return journey, Naharlagun (near the capital Itanagar), easier to reach from Naharlagun Dress code: moderately modest. when you have a flight already booked Silapathar, Jonai, Harmuti Jn. and railway station to Itanagar/Naharlagun that you absolutely don’t want to miss. Murkingselek (all on the same line in town than the other way around. GETTING THERE AND In our experience, here’s the smart way Assam) on one end; and Tinsukia and These ‘feeder service’ buses leave AROUND to use the choppers: Book your trip Dibruhgarh (Assam). Guwahati in downtown very shortly after the arrival e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

into Arunachal from Guwahati or Assam is also a useful interchange of each train, so get off the train AIRPORTS AND HELICOPTERS Mohanbari airport and some part of station, since it has a major airport and quickly if you need to catch them. The airports are Pasighat (weekly the onward journey by chopper, along connects Naharlagun, Tinsukia and Taxis are generally available at the t r a v e l t r a v e l flights from Kolkata), Tezu (to be fully with a ‘Plan B’ road plan, in case the Dibrugarh to most parts of India. Be railway station as well. functional soon), Guwahati chopper is cancelled; but be sure to warned that train travel to Arunachal (International, Assam), Dibrugarh/ plan your return trip back to the Pradesh is for strictly long haulers; The LOCAL PUBLIC TRANSPORT Mohanbari (Domestic, Assam - useful airport entirely by road to be on the fastest train from Delhi to Itanagar, for There’s a whole biodiversity in these for southern and eastern Arunachal), safe side. During rainy or stormy example takes close to 36 hours. category, ranging from the cheaper Lilabari (Domestic, Assam - closest to weather, avoid chopper rides involving Having said this, the trains on this state-run APST buses, to private bus Itanagar), Tezpur (Assam, domestic, higher altitude mountains altogether. route are cleaner and better operators such as Network, and better for Western Arunachal). Regular Regular, comfortable, pay-per-seat maintained than the average Indian budget-friendly ‘Line Sumos,’ which helicopter services (operated by share taxis ply between Guwahati standard, especially the Rajdhani and are basically cramped share SUV taxis SkyOne) connect Mohanbari/Dibrugarh Airport and Itanagar, and reasonably intercity express trains from plying between different towns and and Itanagar (via its twin city priced air conditioned buses leave Naharlagun, and reservations aren’t villages, with a medley of Bollywood Naharlagun) to a few headquarters in every half hour or so between difficult to get, even last minute. songs sometimes playing nonstop

146 147 along the route. Line taxis penetrate basically share-taxis that ply along the to adventurous, off-roader style almost unheard of in these parts; so if deeper into Arunachal than the other long arterial road covering the length rollercoaster experiences. Don’t be you’re planning on cycling, either get modes, and reach fast as well. Booking of both Itanagar and Naharlagun, and fooled by linear distances between your own, rent a bike from Assam or more than one seat per traveller (2 or on to and the Banderdewa two points the map — negotiating get your tour operator to make the 3 seats) could still work out cheaper Gate, forming the border with Assam. rough, zigzaggy mountain roads can arrangements. spirituality spirituality

& & than hiring your own car, let you At night, even these services stop, and account for biggest component of

control the music (!) and can often be the rickshaws nearly triple their rates. travel time in Arunachal, especially if ATMs, cash, Communication, Internet: a more acceptable compromise Even later into the night (post 9pm) you’re planning several regions of this Be sure to stock up on cash, because c u l t u r e c u l t u r e between cost and comfort when you you will often find no transport at all, large state on the same trip. It’s always in many interior places you’d want to don’t have your own car. Or better yet, at any price! So it’s best to have a car a good idea to enquire not just about visit, credit card payment isn’t if travelling in a big group, hire the in Itanagar, especially if you plan to distances, but also road conditions, possible, and ATMs are also known to whole vehicle by booking all 10 seats, return to your room late at night. while charting out your routes. It rains run out of cash intermittently. Most which can oddly still work out cheaper Towns like in Lower Dibang here for nearly nine months of the urban and semi-urban and village than ‘hiring a car.’ Safety-wise, this can Valley , however have more reasonably year, so this is worth keeping in mind, areas have cellphone coverage, but be a particularly smart choice on tricky priced and reliable auto-rickshaws, so especially if you’re cycling or the operator may vary, so carrying dual routes and difficult mountain roads, local public transport varies greatly motorbiking. Road conditions are best SIM phones or multiple phones is e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

where the Line Sumo driver who does from town to town. By and large, it’s in the dry season (Oct-Feb), when road advisable if connectivity is vital during a certain route daily would know the best to have your own vehicle, should travel times are a lot faster. your stay. You can be sure however, terrain better than someone who’s less you choose to travel without an Regular Indian driving licenses are that many of the most beautiful forests t r a v e l t r a v e l familiar with the place. Most towns operator who arranges everything for valid in Arunachal, but try and avoid in Arunachal will not have mobile have a bazaar area, where you’ll find you. Whatever the case, rush hour negotiating rough mountain roads in coverage, so prepare accordingly. For the ‘counter’ where you can enquire traffic in Itanagar is real, and you want foggy or stormy weather at night; in internet, you’ll have to depend on about bus and Line taxi services, and to avoid being in it. some instances travel on this routes your cellphone and hotspots most of even hire private cars. Bookings can may be officially closed during this the time. A power bank can also be subsequently happen even over the ROAD TRAVEL time to ensure that mishaps are handy during power cuts, especially in phone, and payment is strictly cash Driving into Arunachal always involves avoided; it’s safest to either wait till the remote areas. India Post’s ‘Speed Post’ only. crossing Assam, where the roads are light or weather clears up, or get a service interestingly works better in much better, but once you enter hilly person who’s familiar with the area to Arunachal Pradesh than most parts of Itanagar town has expensive three- terrain, the story changes. Mountain drive. Arunachal Pradesh may be a India, and can be useful in smaller wheeler ‘auto-rickshaws’ and cheap road conditions in Arunachal can vary mountain biking paradise, but towns and villages, where private ‘Trackers’ and ‘Tempos,’ which are from buttery smooth and comfortable spontaneously renting bicycles is courier companies don’t operate.

148 149 PERMITS AND BORDERS community-managed or private 3. Office of Deputy Resident villages and towns, and above that the property, so avoid fishing, harvesting Commissioner, Arunachal Bhawan, Divisional Commissioner (DC). It helps Arunachal Pradesh lies on India’s from orchards or farms excessive Kolkata and Guwahati. to decide on the districts you are likely border with Bhutan, China/Tibet and foraging without permission. In the 4. Department of Home, Government to visit while planning your trip itself, Myanmar, but for the moment, tourists Nocte and Wancho tribal villages of of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar. because the ILP is generally issued only spirituality spirituality

& & aren’t allowed to cross over into these Tirap and Longding, it’s generally a 5. Department of Tourism, a few districts at a time, and often not

countries from Arunachal via these good idea as an outsider to meet the Government of Arunachal Pradesh, valid if you cross over to another borders, either with or without the local king or chief as a courtesy visit, Itanagar. district which isn’t on your ILP, making c u l t u r e c u l t u r e relevant visas. Indians and Myanmar and in his absence, the village spontaneous travel complicated for citizens are occasionally allowed to ‘Gambura.’ In other tribes, having any PAPs aren’t issued to tourists in certain first-timers. To renew, extend your ILP cross the Pangsau Pass near local contact from the village will do. sensitive border areas such as some or add a different district on your pass, Nampong, in Changlang District for a These meetings can be useful parts of Changlang, Tirap, Longding if you don’t choose the online route for day, but lately, this passage has been icebreakers and set the tone for some districts. Check if where you want to whatever reason (such as temporarily opened to the general public good interactions. travel in Arunachal is a no-go zone for not having internet or electricity), you’d somewhat less consistently. tourists. Researchers, scientists, etc need to submit a written application to Travel Permits for Foreign might be able to travel to these parts, the local DC or ADC. These offices are e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Entering reserve forest areas and Travellers however in special cases, provided they of course, closed on public holidays. militarily or politically sensitive Foreign tourists in groups of 2 or have received a local invitation and Keep passport-sized photographs and border areas might require special more (single for travel to Tawang have proper projects in these places. photocopies of your ID handy t r a v e l t r a v e l permission from the concerned and Ziro) need to apply for a authorities, such as the local Forest Protected Areas Permit (PAP), which Travel Permits for IndianTravellers Apply for ILPs online here: Range office, army authorities, DC, costs US$30 (valid for 30 days). You’d Though an Inner Line Permit (ILP) is www.arunachalilp.com ADC, etc. In general, additional need to apply for these through local mandatory for Indian citizens to enter permissions from local authorities are tour operators. Arunachal Pradesh, getting it is a Hardcopy ILP applications are also required for sport angling or river simpler process than it is for foreigners, received and issued by the rafting, which your tour operator PAP is issued from the following offices and with fewer restricted areas. Every following offices will manage. Foreigners aren’t allowed to foreign travellers: district in Arunachal Pradesh has a 1. Delhi to enter certain border areas of 1. Ministry of Home Affairs, similar administrative structure. Above The Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh. Unlike in other Government of India, New Delhi the village and local authorities are Arunachal Pradesh,Kautilya Marg, parts of India, most forests and water 2. Office of Resident Commissioner, Circle Officers, Additional Divisional Chanakyapuri, New Delhi. bodies in tribal areas are either Arunachal Bhawan, New Delhi Commissioners (ADC) in the bigger Tel: 011-23013915

150 151 2. Kolkata nagar, Tezpur,Assam - 03712-260173 International Airport AIRLINE OFFICES The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 03712-260173, 260141 Airport Director Tel 0361-2841909 AIR INDIA Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, CE-109, Cell 09435521735 W aai.aero Toll Free 18602331407 W airindia.in Sector-1, Salt Lake City, Kolkata. 6. Dibrugarh AIRLINE OFFICES 033-23341243, 23589865 The Deputy Resident Commissioner, spirituality spirituality Tel AIR INDIA INDIGO

& & 09830822512 Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Toll Free 18602331407 W airindia.in Tel: 0124-6173838

Cell 3. Guwahati Mohanbari, Dibrugarh, Assam Cell 09910383838 The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 0373- 2382560/2382738. ALLIANCE AIR W goindigo.in c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, GS Road 7. From the office of all the Deputy Toll Free 18602331407 Rukminigaon opposite Manasa Mandir, Commissioners of 25 Districts of W airindia.in/alliance-air SPICEJET Dispur, Guwahati the state. Cell 09871803333 Tel 0361-2412859, 2416720 GO AIR W spicejet.com Cell 7086026788 PERMITS ON ARRIVAL Customer Care: 022-62732111 4. Shillong Toll Free: 18602100999 W goair.in LILABARI AIRPORT The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tourist ILP facilitation centres are Origin Bagdogra, Delhi, Kolkata North Lakhimpur, Assam Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, at the following places: W aai.aero e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Meghalaya, Shilllong. Tel 0364- 1. Naharlagun railway station INDIGO AIRLINE OFFICES 2224247, 2224476 2. Gumto railway station Tel: 0124-6173838 Cell 09910383838 ALLIANCE AIR 5. Tezpur 3. Guwahati Asom Paryatan Bhawan near W goindigo.in Toll Free 18602331407 t r a v e l t r a v e l The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Nepali Mandir and Guwahati Origin Agartala, Amritsar, Bagdogra, W airindia.in/alliance-air Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Parvati LGBI Airport. Bengaluru, Bhubaneswar, Chennai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Imphal, Kochi, SPICEJET transport directory Kolkata, Mumbai, Varanasi Cell 09871803333, 09654003333 W spicejet.com AIR TEZU AIRPORT has been inaugurated, VISTARA Origin Kolkata IN ARUNACHAL but at the time of going to press is not Cell 09289228888 W airvistara.com AIRLINE OFFICES up and running as yet. TEZPUR AIRPORT Alliance Air DIBRUGARH AIRPORT Haleswar Dist-Sonitpur, Toll Free 18602331407 IN ASSAM Mohanbari, Assam Tezpur, Assam W airindia.in LOKPRIYA GOPINATH Airport Director Tel 0373-2382755 Airport Director Tel 03712-258441 Origin Guwahati BORDOLOI/ Guwahati W aai.aero W aai.aero

152 153 AIRLINE OFFICES Assam and New Delhi. Trains serving Kolkata-Silghat Town Kaziranga Express, connected to Arunachal Pradesh by ALLIANCE AIR this station include the Naharlagun- Mumbai LLT-Guwahati Express, etc. It Naharlagun-Guwahati Donyi Polo Toll Free 18602331407 Guwahati Donyi Polo Express, is connected to Arunachal Pradesh by Express, Arunachal AC SF Express. W airindia.in/alliance-air Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi Express, the Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi Tinsukia Intercity Express, and Arunachal Express, Tinsukia Intercity Express and spirituality spirituality TEZPUR RAILWAY STATION

& & AC SF Express (bi-weekly) which con- Arunachal AC SF Express. Tezpur Railway Station falls under the

HELICOPTER SERVICE W arunachalipr.gov.in nects Delhi, UP, , and Rangiya Division. Trains serving this Guwahati Ticket Counter Assam to Arunachal Pradesh. HARMUTI JUNCTION station are Alipurduar Jn-Silghat Town c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Cell 09085738939 Harmuti Junction is connected to Rajya Rani Express, Kolkata-Silghat Naharlagun Ticket Counter IN ASSAM served major metros and Town Kaziranga Express etc. It is Cell 09436291907 DIBRUGARH RAILWAY STATION cities by Arunachal Express. connected to Arunachal Pradesh by SECTORS: Dibrugarh Railway Station is well Other trains connecting Arunachal Guwahati-Naharlagun Shatabdi Express, Guwahati -Naharlagun connected to Delhi, Amritsar, Pradesh are Naharlagun-Guwahati Guwahati-Naharlagun Donyi-Polo Guwahati-Tawang Chandigarh, Bengaluru, Kolkata, Uttar Shatabdi Express, Naharlagun-Tinsukia Express, Arunachal AC SF Express. Naharlagun-Pasighat Pradesh etc. Major trains serving this Intercity Express and Naharlagun- Pasighat-Along station are Avadh Assam Express, Guwahati Donyi Polo Express. TINSUKIA JUNCTION e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Naharlagun-Mechuka Dibrugarh-Amritsar Weekly Express, Tinsukia Junction is connected to Dibrugarh-Chandigarh Weekly Express, NORTH LAKHIMPUR RAILWAY Dibrugarh, Guwahati by Ledo- Dibrugarh-Kolkata Weekly SF Express STATION Guwahati Intercity Express, Tinsukia-

t r a v e l RAIL t r a v e l Enquiry 139 and Dibrugarh-New Delhi Rajdhani North Lakhimpur Railway Station is Jorhat Town Passenger, etc. It is W indianrail.gov.in Express. It is connected to Arunachal connected to Arunachal Pradesh by the connected to Arunachal Pradesh by irctc.co.in Pradesh by the Naharlagun- Tinsukia Naharlagun – Tinsukia Intercity Express. Naharlagun-Tinsukia Intercity Express. Intercity Express. IN ARUNACHAL RANGIYA JUNCTION Road RAILWAY STATION GUWAHATI JUNCTION Rangiya Junction is a major railway BUS Bhalukpong Railway Station is Guwahati Junction is a major railway station connecting Assam to major Aalo (SS) Cell 09436058188 connected to Assam by the station connecting Assam to other cities in India and Arunachal Pradesh. Bomdila (SS) Cell 09402476020 Bhalukpong-Dekargoan Passenger. parts of the country. Major trains Trains serving this station are Kanchen- Pasighat (SS) Cell 09612453200 serving this station junga Express, Avadh Assam Express, Itanagar (SS/AS) Cell 09774034571 NAHARLAGUN RAILWAY STATION are Anand Vihar -Agartala Rajdhani North East Express, Mumbai LLT Roing (SS) Cell 09436222387 Naharlagun Railway Station connects Express, Bikaner-Guwahati Express, Kamakhya AC Express, etc. It is Tawang (SS) Cell 09436836087

154 155 TOURIST OFFICES Floor), Kolnadhara Cell 07002412384 52, Pasighat Tel 222324 Cell 09436043393 W arunachal In f o r m a t i o n In f o r m a t i o n & Bo o k i n g NAHARLAGUN donyihango.com Services Tour Arunachal Tourism GS Road, Rukmani Village, Help Tourism packages, trekking, rafting, hotel W arunachaltourism.com Opp Mansa Mandir, Dispur, Assam Arunachal Paradise Tours accommodations, transportation, spirituality spirituality Location

& & 0361-2229506 7086026788 D Sector, Naharlagun arrange permit

Tel Cell ITANAGAR Cell 07002031852, 09862885645 Department of Tourism NEW DELHI Services: Rural Tourism, Homestays, ROING STD 03803 c u l t u r e c u l t u r e Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar Department of Tourism Nature Lodges, ‘Biodivinity journeys’ The Mishmi Hills Trekking Co. Cell 08787619774 (Director of Tourism) Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Contact: Raj Basu +91-9434046892 Location 2 kms from Roing Cell Arunachal Bhawan, Kautilya Marg, E-mail: [email protected] 09436875102, 09366709589, GUWAHATI Chanakyapuri, New Delhi W www.helptourism.com 08974299357 Services Department of Tourism Tel 011-23013915, Car rental, Packages for all NE state, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh 23013956 Ravi Travel & Tour Inc customised tours, accommodations, Location A Sector, Naharlagun (Near transportation o p e r a t o r s

Tour OPERATORS Old Cinema Hall), Dist Papumpare BOMDILA STD 03782 Cell 09436044905 W arunachaltours. Cell 08257894003-04 Services Hotel/

t o u r Wildwildeast o p e r a t o r s / Himalayan Holidays com Services Car rental, tour Air/Rail bookings Location Roing Lower Location ABC Bldng. Main Market, packages, customised tours, Dibang Valley Cell 7002031852, t o u r Bomdila Tel 3782-222017 Cell 094360 transportation, accommodations Xcell 9862885645 Services Tribal ethno- o f f i c e s 45063 W himalayan-holidays.net Destinations All North East Location Hafizan Complex, Ulubari, cultural festival tours, E mail Services Car rental, tour packages, Opp Volvo Point, GS Road, Guwahati [email protected] transportation, accommodations, wildlife Kaziranga Tours Cell 09854121140 W xcell.co.in t o u r i s t tours, customised tours, forex, ticketing, Address Kadambari Complex (Gr Flr), Services Car rental, tour packages, M/s Menchukha Tours & Travels passport n visa, all permits Thana Charall Tel 2325969 accommodations Destinations Location Menchukha/ Itanagar Destinations All North-Eastern States Cell 09435530345, 09401343501 Arunachal Pradesh, Assam Cell 09402224350 09402224350, Gebu W kazirangatours.com Sona 9436074877, 940299666 ITANAGAR STD 0360 Services Customised tours, wildlife PASIGHAT STD 0368 E-Mail: [email protected], Duyu Tours & Travels tours, trekking Destinations All of Donyi Hango Tours [email protected] Location Vivek Vihar, College Road, Arunachal Pradesh – Rafting / Trekking W gtlhomestay.com Services Culture Itanagar Tel 0360-216450, 218056 Guwahati Branch House No 149 (1st Location Tebo Village, East Siang, NH tours between Menchukha and Tato

156 157 h o m e s t a y s c u l t u r e & spirituality River Kameng ties 158 Cell Y Rooms Location Y Facilities Location Y Rooms Cell Location Khaje Room Cell Location Dirkhipa Rooms Cell Location Bham BHALUKPONG service, geyser,service, heater, bath attached parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath attached service, room hall, dining Kitchen, parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath common service, room hall, dining Kitchen, dining hall, geyser,hall, bath dining attached 09402928011 Location eshi angdol ul Pema ul Kitchen, dining hall, room service room hall, dining Kitchen, 08729930222, 09436635835 09436635835 08729930222, 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, Cell Homestay 2 Homestay Homestay 3 3 2 Cell T Thembang Village, Dirang Dirang Village, Thembang Thembang Village, Dirang Village, Thembang Kameng Near Village, Tipi West Rupa, Village, Jigaon Dirang Village, Thembang Dirang Village, Thembang Homestay Kitchen, dining hall, room hall, dining Kitchen, 08415850764, 08731978022 08415850764, Homestay ariff T T T Chhen ariff ariff ariff 09402071593, Homest Rooms

`

700 `1,000 `700 `1,300-1,600 Homestay Facilities a 2 Facilities ys Facilities T ariff Kitchen, Kitchen,

Facili- `1,000

Namsai Siang Namsai cuisine, vehicles for sightseeing for vehicles cuisine, common bath common dining hall, parking, geyser,parking, hall, heater dining Location Hewli T Location Greenview NAMSI Rooms T Location Gumin K Location Gumin Ane P Facilities Location Sangtini Kitchen, dining hall, common bath common hall, dining Kitchen, common bath common 09436053509, 08729989123 09436053509, person, with two meals two with person, Kitchen, vehicle for sightseeing for vehicle Kitchen, meals 04048 49977 91784 Namsai meals ariff ariff asigh

Cell 3,000 with all meals all with `3,000 1,600 per person, with two with person, per `1,600 Facilities Facilities Rooms Rooms Rooms omestay Homestay 2 Cell Cell Cell omestay Homestay Behind Buddhist Monastery,Buddhist Behind behind Village Mebo, Romdum Mebo, Village East Pasighat, Mirbu, Tigra Monastery,Buddhist Behind Kitchen, parking, pic n drop, n pic parking, Kitchen, `1,000 Homestay t 07005059493, 087319 07005059493, 08794089075, 093666 08794089075, 094360 09862708997, 09436637187 Homestay Homestay 3 2 2 Kitchen, traditional Kitchen, Kitchen, dining hall, dining Kitchen, T T T Facilities igher Secondary,Higher ariff ariff ariff

2,500 with two with `2,500 1,600 per `1,600 `2,500-3,000 Facilities Kitchen, Rooms Facilities Rooms

Cell 2 2

33767, 084248 02002 084248 33767, Dibang ValleyDibang Siang 52 1,600 per person, with two meals two with person, per `1,600 meals two with person, per `1,800 1,500 per person, with all meals all with person, per `1,500 07005586217 Dibang ROING Facilities Location Bebo AALO Location T Location Pineapple Location T Facilities Cell Location Narmi Facilities Cell Location Nana hall, room service, attached bath attached service, room hall, bath common service, 3,000 Location akar uniyang T el 09862911689 07085858003 Cell Facilities Homestay Homestay Home 222324 Homestay 03783 STD V 03803 STD 12 km to Miuliati, Lower Miuliati, to km 12 Village Ori Takilalung, Village Pasighat East Pasighat, Napit, Village NH TeboSiang, East Village, Siang East Village, Runne Takilalung, Village Pasighat Kitchen, local guide, dining guide, local Kitchen, room hall, dining Kitchen, bath common Kitchen, alley Jungle alley Homestay 09862571827 Homestay Stay Rooms Tel Cell Kitchen, dining room dining Kitchen, 0353-2433683 Rooms Rooms 09436043393, Cell 4 Rooms amp Camp T ariff 076389 2 2 T T 8

ariff ariff `2,800- T Cell ariff

main Ziro Town)Ziro main Bomjir,Roing from 17km 08258829810, 0940205405708258829810, `1,500-2,000 ZIRO STD 03788 STD ZIRO bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on heaters, room service, attached bath, TV bath, attached service, room 09856209494 Facilities Cell Location Lemberdung cottages Location Ziro Ngunu T Location Jambey T Location Zaktum meals tents meals, all with Rooms attached bath attached hall, dining request, on food Kitchen, heater,bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on food geyser,heater, bath attached 2,000 per person, with two meals two with person, per 2,000 08414987117, 09436045988 08414987117, 09733000442 Tip ariff AWANG Also called Dambuk called Also 09436051009

`1,800-3,000 Facilities 4, tents 6 tents 4, T otko – Artist – Notko V 8 km from Tawangfrom km 8 Market Siro Village, Ziro (3 kms from kms (3 Ziro Village, Siro kms) (4 Urgelling Lower Dibang Valley,Dibang Lower Kitchen, dining hall, parking. hall, dining Kitchen, ariff illa 03794 STD Facilities Rooms

W Home Home `2,500-3,500 Restaurant, laundry,Restaurant, helptourism.net Cell T Rooms ariff Facilities 3,500; TE with all with TE `3,500; 09436047891, 2 tay Stay Kitchen, food Kitchen,

T 5,000; TE `5,000; Cell Homestay amp Camp ariff 3 Cell Facilities Rooms Rooms T Kitchen,

ariff `1,200-

159 6 6

h o m e s t a y s c u l t u r e & spirituality Photo Credits

Front Cover Chongkham Sanjiv Valsan Page 84: The legendary wish-fulfilling Phra The Golden Pagoda or Kongmu Kham, Sutong Pe Buddha at Empong Namsai Page 90: Colourful costume dances are a big part of Mahayana Buddhist culture Inside the Book Page 104: Fresh bamboo shoots at the sanjiv valsan Bomdila market Page 4, Top left: An Adi tribal carries greens Page 112: Thembang Dzong at dusk to feed his mithun Page 114: Archaeological finds from Page 4, Middle left: Wancho Oriah festival Malinithan (10th–14th century CE) and a brick Page 4, Bottom right: Tai Sang Along, a with a human figure from Bhismakanagar costume dance drama (11th–12th century CE) Page 5, Top left: The Snow Lion dance at Page 120: A newly-wedded Nyishi couple Tawang Page 124: A Tai Khamti wedding ritual Page 5, Middle left: Archaeological finds from Page 126: The skill and craftsmanship of Malinithan (10th–14th century CE) Arunachali tribes Page 8-9: Adis prepare for dances during the Page 128: Textile with extraordinary tribal Unying Giidi spring festival motifs and patterns are on display Page 14 & 19: An Idu Mishmi igu (shaman) Page 134: After the fish are intoxicated with Page 26: An Adi Tapu dancer at the Aran herbs, they are caught by spear-fishing as part Festival in Karko Basti, near of traditional fishing techniques Page 32: Nyishis carry a Dapo totem Page 38: T. Wangcha is one of the two last Sanjoy ghosh tattooed headhunters of Tirap at Luthong Page 94-95: Tawang Monastery Page 48-49: Nonglo, the last Indian village on the Indo-Myanmar border Shutterstock Page 56: Shades of Theravada Buddhism Page 5, Bottom right: A boy of the Galo Page 64: Tai Sang Along, a costume tribe of Arunachal Pradesh seen fishing with a dance drama bow and arrow Page 70: The Golden Pagoda at night Page 74-75: Thai-Burmese style pagodas at

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