Qimen 祁

門 家 中 三 安 寶 徽 Qimen & Red A Journery Through Qimen Culture 穿 茶人: Luo Yingyin 羅英銀 越 Qimen is rich in history, gorgeous nature, tea and tea cul- 祁 ture. It is home to three famous : gongfu red tea, Maofeng 門 and Liu An. We start our journey through this rich tea heritage by surveying Qimen’s natural beauty and heri- 文 tage. With old houses, bridges, poetry and tea sessions under 化 willow trees, Qimen and its tea inspires a nostalgia for the 之 times when people walked slowly and spent their evenings sharing old stories that involved the stars. Tea is left by the 旅 roadside for travelers like us, in the spirit of kindness and 程 hospitality. Follow us into the mountains of Anhui...

he horizon draws a crisp line scenery carried the eye across the land- ing over all sorts of unusual landforms. T between the blue sky and the scape, linking forest and peak like the Most of the region’s tea plantations green forest; spring has arrived words of a poem. are situated in the densely forested right on time in Qimen County. Qimen’s natural charm doesn’t hills and valleys. Also located here is Beneath the March skies, the green hills just manifest itself in the forests and the national AAAA-rated Guniuji- keep company with soft white clouds, mountains, but also in the tea planta- ang Nature Reserve, dubbed “Eastern the clear water reflects the trees, the tions nestled among them, nourished ’s last primeval forest.” To truly fragrance of tea wafts above the fields, by the earth. Qimen is located in a experience Qimen’s scenery, you re- and in the quiet villages, the old houses region recognized the world over as ally must visit the ancient forests of silently narrate their stories... the “golden belt” of tea production. Guniujiang. They say that the pine There’s a faint chill in the air, and Stretching across China at a latitude trees here are even more uniquely the leaves have begun to yellow; an- of 30° north of the equator, the teas twisted than the renowned crooked nouncing itself with glorious colors, produced around this area include not pines of and the waterfalls autumn keeps its appointment. On only those from Qimen itself, such as are even more elegant than the famous Qimen’s White Dew nights in mid-au- Qimen () red tea, An tea and ones at Lushan. tumn, the tranquility of the mountains , but also a va- Guniujiang, with its ethereal scen- is underscored by the gentle rustling of riety of other famous historical teas, ery, is located near Village, in streams; the glow of moonlight settles such as West Lake Longjing, Dongting the northwest of Qimen County. The across the fields, and Liu An tea leaves , Junshan Silver Needle, name “Guniujiang (牯牛降)” literally lie silently outdoors, spread on their Mengding Ganlu, Lushan Clouds and means “descending bull”—it’s named mats, waiting to encounter the night Mist and . The region’s after a large black rock on one of the dew and absorb its gift of moisture. unique geographical landforms, abun- peaks, which from afar looks like a My journey in pursuit of Liu An tea dant rainfall and sunlight, and rich bull sitting peacefully, having just led to two visits to Qimen County in biodiversity all come together to make landed from the sky. These moun- Huangshan, Anhui Province, once in it a veritable paradise for tea plants. tains are part of a range that branch- the spring and once in the autumn. In More than 90% of the total area of es off from Huangshan and extends the tranquility of the springtime, the Qimen County is made up of moun- toward the west. The landscape here crisp air was so calm that it seemed to tainous terrain, which gave rise to a is built of stone; the mountain peaks solidify, so that one almost forgot to local saying: “nine mountains, half a are pointed and craggy, with steep breathe in the still of the moment. In lake and half a field.” About 85% of slopes that extend straight down the autumn, the romantic mountain the county is forested, with trees grow- to the gloriously lush valley floor.

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Qimen & Red Tea

The waters of Guaniujiang are mar- velously green, reflecting the surround- ing forest. Hikes through the bamboo groves at the foot of the hills lead into a dream.

The Huizhou architecture around Qimen is characterized by “horse- head” walls that have tiers and gables that resemble a horse’s head. The carv- ing in the wood is a lost craft.

Rocks of strange and wondrous shapes pearls, each droplet sparkling. As the the arrival of spring. In the distance, are dotted across the landscape like water descends from the sky and crash- mountain ranges form a many-layered stars in the sky, adding to the magic of es into the valley below, a mist of spray background, and rows of tea trees cov- the scenery. rises; lit by the sun’s rays, it naturally er the slopes; the tea trees in the village There’s a saying that goes: “The forms a rainbow, painting an enchant- itself are lush and green. Against this mountain gets its life from the water, ing many-colored brushstroke across backdrop, it looks just like the yel- and the water takes on the serenity of the landscape. low-green flowers were scattered across the mountain; the more beautiful the If you follow the streams down into the fields from the heavens. The green mountain, the more graceful its wa- the valley, you’ll end up deep in the of Mother Earth sets off their delight- ters.” The waters of Guniujiang are forest. At the foot of the mountain, the ful color, and the farmhouses between clear as crystal and green as jade, and broad-leaved evergreen forest is a deep the criss-crossed paths bring a warm, quite moving to behold. Pure, clean, green, a steady green; if you look up familiar feeling to the flowering fields. clear and bright, spotless as the fabled toward the midslopes, the brushwood Every year, when the flowers open, the Peach Blossom Spring, the area is cov- forest becomes brighter, the translu- area attracts many photography enthu- ered with springs and creeks, pools and cent green of jade; look up further still, siasts, hoping to capture this fleeting streams, all beautifully clear and tur- and the forest atop the mountain forms spring feeling. quoise-green. The green pools quietly a verdant line against the sky, a shining In Qimen, the most beautiful scen- reflect the forest trees; the whole effect green, a fresh and vibrant green. Sprin- ery is to be found in the countryside. is just like standing in a real-life paint- kled across these layers are flowers of Qimen’s simple mountain villages, ed scroll. all colors, dots of brightness to com- nestled among overlapping mountain If, as they say, a mountain gets its plement the greens, raising their petals ranges, afford a quite different view life from the water, then the moun- with joyful abandon to the sun. than urban areas. Amid the land- tains of Guniujiang are lively indeed— As well as mountain flowers that scape, the old black-and-white farm- its waterfalls are pure motion, cascad- brighten the village, the yellow oilseed houses have stood there for genera- ing over clifftops like long strings of flowers bloom in early March to herald tions, between the Earth and the Sky.

17/ A Journey Through Qimen Culture Among the meandering hills, the ders of traditional Huizhou architec- placed on feng shui (Daoist geomancy) green waters wind along, the swaying ture. A notable feature of this style is in local Huizhou culture. The river in shadows of the trees slowly changing its “horse-head walls (馬頭墻),” a style front of the village is named Rabbit with the sunlight from dusk till dawn. where the top of the wall has a series of Ear Creek. It encircles the village like a When the sun emerges from the linger- tiers ending in upturned gables, which band of jade, chattering and murmur- ing clouds and mist at dawn, or after a shape is reminiscent of a horse’s head. ing as it flows by. The ancient forest rainstorm, the black-and-white houses The buildings in Huizhou style are of- behind the village, on Lai Long (“The are suddenly lit up brilliantly; it’s a spe- ten decorated with murals or intricate Coming of the Dragon”) Mountain, cial moment, a feeling that you’ll only carvings. stands in peaceful silence. experience in the Anhui countryside. A trip to Qimen County would Across Rabbit Ear Creek, in front These houses, with their white walls not be complete without visiting Tao of the village, the villagers have built a and black roof tiles, are typical of An- yuan (“Peach Spring”) Village, named covered bridge, a necessity for life by a hui Province and represent one branch after the ethereal village depicted in river. In Huizhou’s traditional moun- of traditional Han Chinese architec- the classic work Peach Blossom Spring tain villages, a bridge was often built ture. You can find this style of archi- (桃花源記) by poet Tao Yuanming. across the outlet of a river (where the tecture throughout the six counties in (In the story, a fisherman discovers water flows away from the village) to the of southern An- an unknown village, a beautiful and act as a sort of “lock” for the feng shui hui, namely She, Yi, Wuyuan (which harmonious utopia, which has had of the area. Beside the bridge, people today is a part of Province), no contact with the outside world for would build pavilions, dams and em- Xiuning and Jixi counties, along with centuries.) This real-life Peach Spring bankments, and would plant plants; the destination of our visit, Qimen village lies between mountains on one all these were intended to preserve the County. The houses, ancestral temples side and a river on the other, and natu- balance of feng shui, ensuring prosper- and memorial archways are the most rally follows the slope of the mountain. ity and peace. Our ancestors thought famous types of buildings in this style, This layout is typical of alpine villages much more about the design of their and are celebrated as the three won- in Huizhou, and shows the importance villages.

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After crossing the bridge to the must pay a visit to Zhenyi Temple a certain rank were allowed to erect a village, you will encounter the build- (貞一堂), known as “Huizhou’s First pair of stone poles in front of the an- ings of the village, their “horse heads” Shrine of the People’s Republic of Chi- cestral shrine, to pass down the fam- held proudly aloft. Wandering among na.” This grand ancestral temple was ily honor to future generations. One them, you’ll come across whitewashed first built in the Ming Dynasty and has might well wonder how these stone walls both high and low, roofed with since undergone two fires and two pe- monuments made it through the Cul- rows of black tiles; you’ll marvel at the riods of rebuilding. It is built with fine tural Revolution undamaged; the an- intricate carvings of the wooden win- materials and decorated with intricate swer is that the people of the Ni clan dow panels, meander down alleyways carvings. The temple faces south on a transported them all down the river, paved with gray stone, and quietly large area of land, and has three wide to the front of the village and bur- take in the grand and solemn ancestral halls. Inside the main hall there are 108 ied them under silt, to safely preserve temples with their drum-shaped stone pillars, alluding to the saying: “Thir- them throughout the revolution. statues. The whole village has a feel- ty-six heavenly stars, and seventy-two Learning of this history left us to ing of serenity and history, as if time evil stars.” (This comes from a Daoist contemplate the power behind this has stood still here. The streets are all tradition in which the constellation vast cultural legacy. Deep in thought, paved with stone, and the cobbles, lit known in English as “the Big Dipper you will wander through Zhenyi Tem- with the steady glow of the sunlight, (Ursa Major)” represents the balance ple, paying a visit to the old residence have been worn smooth with years of of fate. According to the legend, this on the left, toward the back of the footsteps. The streets are so narrow that constellation was made up of 108 stars, hall. The residence is known as “One it’s almost impossible for two people to each home to a god; thirty-six of them Government, Six Counties,” and is walk side-by-side, and are criss-crossed were benevolent, protective spirits, also known among locals as the “new with a veritable maze of small, winding while seventy-two were malicious.) house” and the “imperial palace.” It alleys. The old walls, with their mot- The courtyard in front of the tem- is representative of Qimen residences tled whitewash and many doors and ple is lined on either side by eighteen from the Ming and Qing dynasties. windows, stand in secluded tranquility. pairs of impressive stone steles. It’s said The name “One Government, Six The neighboring township of that in the early days, members of the Counties” describes the architectural Zhukou is also home to several old Ni clan whose offspring successfully layout of the residence and refers to villages. When visiting the area, you passed the imperial examinations with the six counties that were under the ju-

懷舊寺廟

The Zhenyi Temple was built in the Ming Dynasty, though it has been repaired several times since. It is massive, with many halls, each boasting amazing ar- chitecture, stunning steles and a significant 108 pillars in the main hall. There is also a connected residence, which belonged to the Ni family (imperial servants).

19/ A Journey Through Qimen Culture risdiction of the Huizhou government. light, and multiple stories above the So, on our cultural journey through Mansions of this type had a large main hall. The walls, from both inside Qimen County, we’ve seen old resi- courtyard with one “government” hall and out, are decorated with breathtak- dences, ancient trees and elegant pa- and six “county” halls. The “govern- ingly ornate carvings. From the beams vilions. We’ve passed by houses and ment” hall was the main reception hall, to the archways, from the pillars to the crossed little bridges over rushing used for receiving guests and holding windows, the historic charm of the res- streams; we’ve admired the natural banquets. The “county” halls were the idence greets one’s eyes at every turn. beauty of Guniujiang with its moun- day-to-day living quarters of the fami- The features surrounding the veran- tains and jade-green waters. All of this ly. The mansion was built in 1884 and das—the eaves, stone walls, partition exploration paints a vivid backdrop covers an area of 1,600 square meters. screens, lotus gates and pillars—are to the history and culture of Qimen’s It was the residence of Ni Wangzhong all made of the finest brick, wood and teas: the fragrant and flamboyant Qi- (倪望重), who passed the highest im- carved stone. There’s a saying that men red tea, the Liu An tea of Luxi perial civil service examination during goes: “Every hall has its veranda, and with its rich history and the tradition- the reign of the Qing emperor Tong- no dwelling lacks carvings.” This man- al Maofeng green tea of the villages. zhi. Ni Wangzhong was a prefectural sion certainly exemplifies the saying Brimming with countless stories and magistrate of Zhejiang Province, while and offers us a window into classical endless enchanting landscapes, this fas- his younger brother, Ni Wanglong life and culture in Huizhou. cinating region really is an earthly echo (倪望隆) was a county head magis- The old houses and residences in of the fabled Peach Blossom Spring. trate in the south of Jiangxi Province. Qimen’s villages are an embodiment The two brothers lived together in the of Huizhou culture, with a distinctive one, big mansion. Since the family style that is quiet and understated. The had officials at both the prefecture and passing time has brought a sense of age county level, this gave rise to the “One and history to the area, and the stones, Government, Six Counties” name. wood, pillars, roofs and windows are The whole mansion is splendid and all subtly imbued with the echoes of elegant. Each of the county halls is ex- their cultural legacy, inspiring nostal- quisitely decorated, with rooms off to gia for lost ages. You will walk through the side, verandas for ventilation and time in these places.

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