From the “Pulchra Leonina” (the “Leonese Beauty,” the León Cathedral) to the “Sancta Ovetensis” (the Oviedo Cathedral) GUIA CAMINO DEL SALVADOR Author and Photographer: jose antonio cuñarro exposito (also known as “Ender”) 1 FROM THE PULCHRA LEONINA TO THE SANCTA OVETENSIS This Camino joins two beautiful cities, both easy to live in, both simple but with a grand history, one the cradle of parliamentarianism and the other the cradle of the Reconquest, both provincial capitals, both Jacobean and pilgrim cities, both with a huge importance for the pilgrimage to Santiago. ORIGIN OF THE CAMINO DEL SALVADOR Spain had been invaded by the Moors, who were advancing towards the north. To protect the innumerable religious relics that were located all over what is now Spain, the relics were carried northwards to cities where they could be safeguarded. Oviedo was the capital of Spain, and Alfonso II was the ruler. The discovery of the tomb of the Apostle James was the reason for the king’s pilgrimage to Santiago in the 9th century, so that he could pay respects to the Apostle’s remains. It was King Alfonso II who ordered the construction of a Holy Chamber in the Cathedral of Oviedo, a place for safekeeping all the relics that had been hidden in the mountain named Monsacro. This turned Oviedo into the principal custodian of relics from all of Europe, outnumbered only by those that we can find in Rome. When the Reconquest began, Oviedo lost political power, and the capital was transferred to León. At that point the Jacobean routes, which until that time had gone across the north, on the Viejo Camino (Old Way) or the Camino Olvidado (Forgotten Way), and the Camino Primitivo (Original Way), lost out to the consolidation of the Camino Francés (French Way), which became the primary and most heavily traveled route. But the opportunity to visit the relics in the Holy Chamber of Oviedo spurred the creation of the Camino del Salvador, a slight detour north from the Camino Francés in León, which could be taken either on the way to Santiago or on the way home. Various Spanish kings made the pilgrimage on the Camino del Salvador to honor the relics. According to tradition, the Holy Chest that is located in the Oviedo Cathedral was transported from Jerusalem. The apostles were reputed to have used it to secure various objects connected with the passion and death of Christ and Mary. It was first taken to Toledo, which was the capital of Spain at that time, but later brought to Oviedo. In 1075, the king Alfonso VI visited Oviedo to conduct an inventory of the contents of the Holy Chest. He was accompanied by Rodrigo Díaz, The Cid. In addition to relics like the Holy Shroud, the chest also held the Cross of Victory that Pelayo used in battle, the box of Agates, and the Cross of the Angels. La Perdonanza is a week long festival or Jubilee, from the 14th to the 21st of September every year in Oviedo. During these days, believers may obtain a plenary indulgence, 2 which brings a pardon of all sins. Unlike Santiago, in which the faithful must wait for a Holy Year to obtain an indulgence, in Oviedo it is available every year. This indulgence, given by Pope John VIII on the request of Alfonso II, will be granted to anyone who goes into the Cathedral, prays before the statue of El Salvador (Christ the Savior) and before the relics of the Holy Chamber (including the Holy Shroud, the Holy Chest, the Crosses of Victory and of the Angels, and the agate chest). The Jubilee is always celebrated on the same dates, tied to the festival of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross and the Holy Days of San Mateo (Saint Matthew). The presence of a pilgrims’ hospital and a pilgrims’ cemetery in Oviedo gives us an idea of its importance as a religious center. In the 16th Century, the Cathedral began to publish an inventory of the relics, which was distributed to pilgrims arriving in Oviedo. It constituted proof that its holder had completed the pilgrimage on the Camino del Salvador. The importance of the pilgrimage to Oviedo in that time can be established by documents showing that in 1591, a copy of the inventory was distributed to 29,310 pilgrims. In fact, that is the same number as the total number of pilgrims recorded by the Cathedral in Santiago during that year. THE CAMINO DEL SALVADOR It is 123 km long, made up of paths and trails that separate the Cathedral of León (known as the Pulchra Leonina”) and the Cathedral of Oviedo (known as the “Sancta Ovetensis”). León is a very important city on the Camino Francés, and we can connect to Oviedo from there on the Camino del Salvador. Continuing from Oviedo, we can reach Santiago by the Camino Primitivo or the Camino del Norte. Oviedo is a pilgrimage destination in its own right. It has been visited by innumerable pilgrims who come to pray in front of the sacred relics housed in its Holy Chamber. “He wHo goes to santiago and not to san salvador pays homage to the servant and ignores tHe master.” SUGGESTED STAGES FOR THE CAMINO DEL SALVADOR 4 Days Day 1 – León - Buiza 40 km Day 2 – Buiza – Pajares 24 km Day 3 – Pajares - Pola de Lena 25 km Day 4 – Pola de Lena – Oviedo 34 km 3 5 Days Day 1 – León – La Robla 27 km Day 2 – La Robla - Poladura 24 km Day 3 – Poladura – Bendueños 30 km Day 4 – Bendueños – Mieres 23 km Day 5 – Mieres - Oviedo 19 km Day 1 – León – La Robla 27 km Day 2 – La Robla - Poladura 24 km Day 3 – Poladura - Pajares 15 km Day 4 – Pajares - Pola de Lena 25 km Day 5 – Pola de Lena - Oviedo 34 km 6 Days Day 1 – León – La Robla 27 km Day 2 – La Robla - Poladura 24 km Day 3 – Poladura - Pajares 15 km Day 4 – Pajares – Pola de Lena 25 km Day 5 – Pola de Lena - Mieres 15 km Day 6 – Mieres - Oviedo 19 km 7 Days: Day 1 – León – Cabanillas 17 km Day 2 – Cabanillas - La Robla 10 km Day 3 – La Robla - Poladura 24 km Day 4 – Poladura - Pajares 15 km Day 5 – Pajares – Pola de Lena 25 km Day 6 – Pola de Lena - Mieres 15 km Day 7 – Mieres – Oviedo 19 km 8 Days: Day 1 – León – Cabanillas 17 km Day 2 – Cabanillas - La Robla 10 km Day 3 – La Robla - Buiza 15 km Day 4 – Buiza – Poladura 9 km Day 4 – Poladura - Pajares 15 km Day 5 – Pajares – Bendueños 15 km Day 6 – Bendueños - Mieres 25 km Day 7 – Mieres – Oviedo 19 km 4 9 Days: Day 1 – León – Cabanillas 17 km Day 2 – Cabanillas - La Robla 10 km Day 3 – La Robla - Buiza 15 km Day 4 – Buiza – Poladura 9 km Day 5 – Poladura - Pajares 15 km Day 6 – Pajares – Bendueños 15 km Day 7 – Bendueños–Pola de Lena 10 km Day 8 - Pola de Lena – Mieres 15 km Day 9 – Mieres – Oviedo 19 km IMPORTANT ADVICE: Be very aware of the seasonal changes when planning stages. In summer time, and if you are in good physical shape, longer stages are possible, but at the end of autumn and in winter, daylight hours are greatly reduced. It’s important to leave a few hours of daylight as a cushion in case some mishap occurs. Anyone can suffer a sprain or a fall, and if that happens in the middle of the mountain and with little daylight left, it can be a serious problem. It’s also extremely important not to risk crossing the mountains when there is heavy snow. Just because the conditions in León, or even La Robla, are fine, it may be a totally different story in Poladura. Always pay attention to the recommendations given by people in the albergues. If conditions are bad, don’t risk it. The Camino will always be there and waiting for another occasion. There is no alternative to the Camino, the highway is NEVER an alternative. If there is snow, the plow will clean the highway but not the shoulder. The highway between León and Oviedo is one of the most dangerous highways in Spain even in the best of conditions, and it is much more so in snow. Imagine yourself in the middle of the highway on a day of blowing snow or wind. It is not worth it to risk your life. Take a taxi, train, or bus, and leave the mountain stages for another time. CLOTHING AND SHOES FOR THE CAMINO No matter what the season, it is always recommended to wear mountain boots on this camino. The route crosses the mountains that separate the province of León from Asturias, going as high as 1600 m. Clothing will depend on the time of year, but remember that altitude has a big effect on temperature. Though it may be hot in the summer during the day, it will be much cooler at night. In winter it is essential to come prepared for cold. BACKPACK The best backpack is the one that, in addition to being comfortable, weighs the least. Forget about the “what ifs” when you are packing. It’s preferable to buy the occasional necessity than to bring all the many things you just might need. The Camino passes through various important towns with all services. 5 FOOD In Cabanillas, Buiza, Poladura, Pajares and Bendueños, remember that there are no stores to buy food. The albergues, except for Pajares, have a small kitchen with microwave.