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Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/15 6th EDITION

Contents

Published by The Sloane Company Scene from BikeLordz; see p9 Directors Marcel Kouassigan, Michel Kouassigan

PO Box AN 10060 Accra-North, Ghana Tel: + 233 244 090 351/2 Fax: +233 302 970155 www.timeout.com/accra [email protected]

Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out Group Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out Group Ltd, 4th Floor, 125 Shaftesbury Avenue, London WC2H 8AD. UK +44 (0) 20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com

Editorial Editor Daniel Neilson Deputy editor Ben Lerwill Contributors Ruth-Ellen Davis, Cat Scully and all the contributors to previous editions

Design Art Director johnoakeydesign.co.uk Marketing Director Michel Kouassigan Administration and distribution The Sloane Company

Time Out Group Chairman & Founder Tony Elliott Chief Executive Officer Tim Arthur International Managing Director David Woodley Group IT Director Simon Chappell Group Marketing Director Carolyn Sims Global Art Director Anthony Huggins Global Editor Ellen Hardy

Contributors & photography ACCRA FOR Daniel Neilson, except: BikeLordz VISITORS film still 5, 9; Benedict Johnson 8, An African City 8; Amfo Connolly 10; 2014/15 Shutterstock/Felix Lipov 25; Ben Features Out and about Lerwill 64; establishments own 23, 31, 38, 45, 49, 54, 60, 73, 78, Shutterstock/Sura Nualpradid cover. Accra in Focus Explore Trips out of Town 07 What’s new in town 26 Sightseeing 78 Trips out of Town Printers Wyndeham Grange, (01273 592 244) Dates for your Diary Consume Directory Key events for 2014/15 86 Getting Around While every effort and care has 10 34 Bars, Pubs & Clubs been made to ensure the accuracy 39 Restaurants & Cafés 86 Resources of the information contained in this Smile: You’re in Ghana! 49 Shopping 88 Emergencies publication, the publisher cannot 12 51 reasons to be happy accept responsibility for any errors you’re in Ghana it may contain. All rights reserved. Arts & No part of this publication may be Nothing Plain About Jane Entertainment reproduced, stored in a retrieval 60 Art & Film system, or transmitted in any 20 Meet Efya, Ghana’s latest form or by any means, electronic, star, plus the best Accra singer 64 Children mechanical, photocopying, 66 Music recording or otherwise, without prior The Mystery of Accra’s 68 Sport permission of Time Out. Secret Crime Fighter © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2014 22 The amazing story of Hotels ISBN 9781905042913 Ghana’s best selling novelist 72 Hotels

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 5

Accra in Focus

Wellbeing in Accra A new yoga studio is just one of a host of wellbeing therapy centres being offered in Ghana

oga, we know, is not all about the mind. Nor is it all Yabout physical exercise. It’s about something much more fundamental and encompassing: wellbeing. Many may be be put off by the idea of the downward dog or sun salutations until they try it. And once it’s been tried, most carry on for a lifetime. Now there’s a new opportunity in Accra to get some world-class yoga teaching. In an airy and light room overlooking the Mövenpick’s beautiful gardens, Nana at Bliss Yoga Accra leads the most soothing and life-affirming hour in Accra. All levels feel welcome (even us!), in fact, it’s impossible not to feel anything but the warmest welcomes from the New York-trained Nana. African Superheroes Nana also runs the yoga classes at Kaya (see p56) that From a small studio in Accra new comic book stars have emerged, the also offers a full detox programme at their luxurious colonial house African Legends. And they’re at the forefront of Africa’s digital revolution and a personalised fresh juice detox programme ‘created to “Long ago, Ananse, the god of 2009 by three friends brought depicting him as a god-turned- clear and ease the mind’. You Wisdom, is banished onto Earth together by their passion for superhero in modern Africa. It’s can also find yoga teaching at by Odumankoma, Ruler of the innovation, creativity and change. set both in the ancient Sky Accra Shala Yoga (www. Skies, for treason. Fast-forward We identified opportunities in Kingdom and modern Ghana, accrashalayoga.com). To delve a to today, fate brings Ananse and entertainment-related content, where Ananse possesses a bit deeper, RIMA Thera Touch an innocent boy, Selasi Rockson, especially African-themed content, high-school boy, Selasi, and (www.rimatheratouch.com) offers together. ” and went from there.” bestows god-like reflexology, physiotherapy, taichi powers on him.” and dozens of other therapies. hus starts a remarkable Can you explain Bliss Yoga Accra (0509546723, story, not just for the the genesis of What are you www.blissyogaaccra.com). legendary character of Africa’s Legends? trying to say with TAnanse on the digital page, “Africa’s Legends is Ananse is Africa’s Legends? but for Ghana’s most exciting our flagship superhero “It’s simply our way of digital arts companies. Leti Arts series. It is influenced the god- saying African culture was started in 2009 by three by folklore and myths is cool! The continent friends in Accra as a video game from across Africa. turned- has a diverse and rich development studio. It has since We’re reimagining the superhero culture, which until created a range of remarkable characters from now has been digital comics and interactive African folklore as in modern presented in very mobile apps, as well as the elite superheroes uninteresting formats. continent’s first superheroes: fighting crime in Africa Africa’s Legends is a Africa’s Legends. present-day Africa. catalyst – these Time Out Accra chatted with superheroes can power the next Leti Arts’ Kobby Owusu to Did The True Ananse come out phase of African entertainment. understand the origins of Africa’s of that? We want to show that world-class Legends and the full story. “The True Ananse is the first entertainment can be made for individual series in which we’re the world from Africa.” How did Leti Arts start? reimagining the story of Kweku Bliss Yoga Accra “Leti Games was founded in Ananse, the trickster, and Visit www.letiarts.com for details.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 7 Ghanaian tapestries Sex in the (African) City Wheel to reel Aeroplane food El Anatsui appointment to the Royal Academy A new YouTube series following six returnees back A group of talented Ghanaian BMX riders are about to be launched onto the There’s a restaurant marks a seachange in Ghanaian art to Accra has become the TV event of the year international stage, thanks to a forthcoming crowd-funded film coming in on the DC-10 tonight nabashedly recognised as the world. And the show is Ghana’s ode to Sex and opening people’s eyes as we deal he derelict Ghana Airways Uthe City, An African City has with problems that everyone plane, in a field just beyond accrued its own avid fan base faces: corruption, power Tthe end of the runway of with an average of 100,000 shortages, real estate, AIDS. It’s Kotoka Airport, has always been Youtube hits per episode since its also about sex and about a bit of a poignant sight. It partly launch earlier this year. Set in independent women. An African symbolised the demise of the Accra, the series follows the City is realistic – it shows the national carrier (although it was social lives of five women in their realities of these women living there long before Ghana Airways late 20s who have, for various in Accra.” folded), and partly a reminder of reasons, returned to Ghana after Fashion plays a big part too, the fragility of the economy. Not having been educated and raised with wardrobe cameos from the any more. The poor old DC-10 abroad. MaameYaa Boafo plays likes of Christie Brown and now has a sparkling new green the Carrie Bradshaw character, Afrodesiac. Ghanaian prints, dress and is a statement of Nana Yaa, an attractive and self stylish hair and expensive bags Ghana’s ambitious assured woman, whose true love make for a luxe viewing and drool entrepreneurialism, standing is close by but worthy escapism, an boldly opposite the equally unavailable. She aspect for which the confidant Marina Mall. It has now struggles to show is both praised been converted into the La Tante acclimatise in her and critiqued. DC-10 Restaurant (see p48). new surroundings, Designer dresses Climb the stairs, sit down in one being the last of the It’s the and chauffeured of the reclaimed seats, and order group to arrive reality of driven cars which a meal of Ghanaian classics. ‘home’. Complaints feature in the BikeLordz Stewards bring the food along in about poor customer women characters’ lives are the surprisingly spacious interior. service, her lack of not perhaps a It’s a gimmick for sure, but it’s ‘Africaness’ and living in realistic snapshot for think everyone who gets remarkable. They train in extreme was an appetite for a longer film. still great to see a gleaming plane

B enedict J ohnson plenty of sexual Accra most Ghanaians, off the plane at Kotoka for heat, on dirt roads and with Tobias and Sam used the short to full of people there, than a mass escapades provide however the show “Ithe first time has a cobbled-together equipment, for promote a crowd-funded of steel. n April 2014, Ghanaian artist and Life by Susan Vogel recently the kind of knowing does pick up on the wide-eyed curiosity, and I was one years without much reward except Kickstarter project that meant El Anatsui was the first African published. The author has also nods the show’s writer, Nicole daily realities which were certainly of them,” American filmmaker their own pride and community they could return to Accra for Ito be appointed a Honorary just released a documentary Amarteifio, felt was missing from not issues for our favourite Tobias Arturi tells Time Out Accra. respect. Additionally, where BMX two months. Royal Academician at the Royal about the artist called Fold African TV. In an interview with Manhattan socialites (was “Bikelordz has definitely become fits – or doesn’t – “The first thing we Academy of Arts. A year earlier he Crumple Crush: The Art of El CNN, Amarteifo explained, “I Carrie’s electricity sporadic; did much more than it was originally within Ghanaian had to adjust to when had won the prestigious Charles Anatsui, distributed by Icarus wanted a TV show about modern, Samantha have to negotiate envisioned to be.” culture is really we arrived was how Wollaston Award for his Films. In the film El Anatsui told beautiful, educated African intimidating police road blocks?). This could be a tad of an interesting. In Ghana, personal everything Before breathtaking (in the truest sense) Susan: “One thing that I have women. I was tired of the sole Amarteifio’s determination to understatement. Tobias moved to BMX is a show, or a is. Making plans can TSIATSIA – searching for the grown into is working with things narrative of the African woman create the series led her to forgo Accra in 2007 to work on a performance for an Want to see be hard, and we connection, that which have been being about poverty and disease. the route of negotiating with TV musical project with John Collins, audience, more than BMX tricks didn’t always end up covered the entire used before – I wanted to see another narrative producers, opting instead to air it Kofi Ghanaba (who has since a competition. The with the shoot that façade of the things which link – one of beauty, glamour and directly from YouTube. It was the died) and the palm-wine legend riders perform at on the top we expected. But that Royal Academy people together. I intelligence. ” right move in a country where Koo Nimo. The idea was to street parties, uncertainty, while with bottle tops, don’t know about The five actresses involved in social media is the main means archive and learn about the roots festivals, funerals, of a tro tro? sometimes printing plates and DNA, but if you the series are indeed beautiful of reliable communication. of Ghanaian music. One day in a really any sort of Watch this! frustrating, often led After roofing sheets. touch something, and glamorous – all have Viewers can easily access each traffic jam, however, Tobias got public event. It’s like to spontaneous, His creations are you leave a chiselled features and episode unedited and with full out to see the cause of the BMX-dance with beautiful unerringly charge on it and cosmopolitan backgrounds. Marie content. The show’s success has hold-up: a group of riders massive Ghanaian swagger, opportunities.” And seeing the beautiful, yet have anybody else Humbert, who plays Makena, the proven Amarteifio’s hunch was performing outside a a one-of-a-kind spin on an art rushes of the final film, we can Digital banking a poignancy that touching it sophisticated lawyer, spoke to spot on, that African viewers football stadium. form that has few roots in vouch for the vibrant is hard to connects with you Time Out Accra about her role. wanted this narrative and that it “Coming from the DIY and bike Ghana itself.” cinematography and emotional A bank in Ghana has pinpoint. in a way – and the “Makena is a character who is a could be done. The show’s community in New York City, we After the short film was connection with the riders. El Anatsui fact that anything divorcee from London now living second series has already been (myself and Bikelordz co- successfully touted around some “We realised shortly after become the first in emerged from the that has been with her uncle and aunt in Accra. filmed and surprise – meetings conspirator Sam Feather-Garner) festivals, it became clear there arriving that we were making a West Africa to be flourishing used by humans Nicole [Amarteifio] called me in are now underway to bring An were immediately curious.” portrait film – a snapshot of post-independence has a history, so and I accepted, after all, I too am African City to Ghanaian TV. The pair were entranced not Ghana through the lens of BMX. entirely digital art movement in Ghana which those properties I think help a returnee, I could relate. I agree To watch An African City, go to only by the feats of bikemanship “The movie’s definitely focused hat no reflected a similar, but bigger, whatever I do to gain some with Nicole in that it is time to www.youtube.com/user/ being performed, but also the around BMX as an art and its teller? scene in Nigeria. Using mostly meaning.” show these fantastic women to AnAfricanCity characters in the saddle. “We place in Ghana, but there are also WThe found materials, from cassava Robert Storr, the curator of the made a short version at first, plenty of scenes where we take Ecobank Digital graters to printing plates often Venice Biennale in 2007, said: which was just an edit of footage some time to focus on the Centre in Labone, taken from the obituary columns “This is all the detritus of everyday I’d grabbed by borrowing environment that they’re riding in. Accra, is the first of newspapers, he created a life in Africa. This is the recycling handheld DV tape cameras from It’s integral that the film highlights West African language of sculpture that is at of industrial production into folks. But as I got to know the Ghana’s cultural heritage, to bank to open a branch without once undeniably West African but something that is completely Ghanaian BMX scene and the convey how improbable and any cashiers. Instead, all banking is understandable around the transcendental made out of junk. guys involved, I realised that exciting it is that BMX is such a transactions and financial world. His work has also appeared This is not pop art, but it is an there was a story that needed to thriving scene here.” services are carried out using at British Museum (where you can aesthetic that reaches back into a be shared with a wider audience. “And you want to see someone touch-screen tablets, interactive still see his work), Centre whole series of things in the Seeing BMX in a new context do bike tricks on top of a tro tro? flat screens and video- Pompidou in Paris and the postwar period, but it has a kind of – the Ghanaian context – threw Watch our movie!” conferencing technology. Smithsonian Institution in exaltation I have not seen before.” up themes like perseverance, Bikelordz is currently in post “Universal Relationship Washington. In London, he is dedication to a dream, and production, but a teaser trailer Managers” are on hand to give represented by the October Quote from El Anatsui, from Fold Crumple individualism. will be out soon. Keep an eye on advice on financial services. Crush: the Art of El Anatsui, a film by Susan Gallery and there was a Vogel, 2011. Online transcript viewed at An African City “The determination that the their Facebook page for news… Ecobank is one of the biggest sumptuous book: El Anatsui: Art susan-vogel.com/Anatsui June 2014. riders in Accra show is really and a Ghanaian premiere? banks in Africa.

8 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 9 Dates for your diary

Ghana Greater Accra, this festival Fashion & commemorates the warrior. Design Victorious and fallen are Week remembered with re-enactments and traditional costume.

Chale Wote Street Art Festival Artists take to Jamestown’s streets for this vibrant alfresco art festival that spans acrylic street painting, stencil work, side walk painting, chalk art and vast murals. Past events have also featured large art installations and photography displays, as well as live music, DJ sets and theatre and spoken word performances. A good source of information is accradotalttours. wordpress.com. September

Accra International Marathon The Accra International Marathon

© C o pyri g h t Gh a n F as hi & De s i Week® | P oto by A mfo nn oll y attracts hundreds of spectators and participants to its course that runs from the beach town of Prampram, through Tema – a port city east of A year in Ghana the capital – and on to the baked sands of Labadi Beach in Accra. Sporting events, traditional celebrations and creative festivals pepper The marathon supports the Longevity Project – an initiative Ghana’s social calendar dedicated to increasing the life expectancy of Ghanaians. here are a huge amount of for a few days each year. Held at the of hiplife, hip-hop, reggae, gospel www.aimghana.com cultural events, parties and Silverbird Cinema. and Afro-pop. Recent big winners Tsporting dates. Listed here www.indiahc-ghana.com were Shatta Wale and Sarkodie. Fetu Afahye Festival are the regular events we know www.ghanamusicawards.com On the first Saturday in September, about well in advance. Stalwarts the communities in the Cape Coast such as the Ghana Music Awards February Ghana Paragliding Festival area converge with processions of and the Ghana Fashion and Easter weekend sees a football field chiefs and warriors strutting in their Design week are well attended Dzawuwu Festival in Accra fill with musicians, media finest gear. The costumes and finery and well organised. We’ve also Agave people’s thanksgiving festival. crews and scores of festively-clad witnessed at this festival are listed traditional events. The Chiefs and tribesmen of the Volta spectators as aspiring paragliders dazzling. For anyone interested in majority of events, even high region also pay homage to their take to the skies. In less than a dress and show, this festival is a profile ones, are not very well fallen ancestors and praise decade, the Ghana Paragliding must-see event. promoted, or not until the last present leaders. Festival has become very popular. It minute. The best bet is to go to also works closely with the www.timeout.com/accra for the Couldbase Foundation which is an October most up-to-date listings. Online March NGO working for children in West we list regular nights and one off Africa. It takes place in Nkawkaw on Ghana Fashion and events of all kinds. Also follow our Damba Festival the Kumasi-Accra road. Design Week Facebook page and Twitter This festival originates from Islamic www.ghanaparagliding.com As Ghanaian designers become ever account (@TimeOutAccra). tradition to mark the birth of the more prominent on the international prophet Mohammed. Celebrated stage, this week of catwalks, models around Tamale and offers a colourful May and frantic buying, is the showcase January pageant of gong-gong drummers for new talent. There are dozens of and dancers. Aboakyer (Deer Hunt) Festival events throughout the week, Bugum Chugu (Fire) Festival One of the highlights of Ghana’s including forums, talks, and, of The Fire Festival coincides with the festival calendar, Aboakyer is held in course, shows. lunar calendar and commemorates April the township of Winneba on the www.ghanafashiondesignweek.com prince Naiyul-Lah Mohammed’s southern coastal side between Accra exile in AD658. It is an Islamic Ghana Music Awards and Cape Coast. The festival takes tradition that has grown into a night The highlight of the Ghanaian music place on the first Saturday in May. December procession of lighted torches, industry’s year is this heady event drumming and dancing. showcasing the country’s most Accra Polo Open popular talent. The 2014 awards saw August Taking place at the Accra Polo Club, Indian Film Festival a packed line up of live this annual event attracts teams The Indian High Commission brings performances. Nominees are Asafotu-Fiam Festival from around the world. Check out its a bit of Bollywood glamour to Accra shortlisted from the year’s releases Celebrated by the people of Ada in Facebook page for details.

10 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Inspiration Wherever You Are

Reviews events maps

Our FREE iPhone app does it all (Our Android app coming soon) Download it today at www.timeout.com/accra The cunning hawkers 11 on Oxford Street “Hey brother, what’s your name?” “It’s Daniel.” “Welcome to Ghana, Daniel!” and off he walks. Half an hour later you’ll get a weaved bracelet with your name on it. It’s hard to say no, mostly because it’s rather nice. A bit cheeky, but fun. If you claim your name’s Friedrich von Trampleklein, they’re stumped.

The world’s quaintest Big thunderstorms Water that comes in a 04 05 06 football song “Arose, KAABOOOM. That’s the sound bag… Why doesn’t the rest Arose, Arose/be quiet and don’t of life getting a little cooler. When of the word sell clean, cold water be silly/We are the famous Hearts the clouds roll in at the beginning in a bag? They cost 10 pesewas, of Oak.” Join in with the rabble at of the rainy season it’s time to provide sterile drinking water for the Ohene Djan Stadium (www. wallow and welcome the dramatic millions and are much cheaper to accraheartsofoak.com). thunderstorms. produce than bottles.

An ice cold beer 12 It’s hot. Really hot. Which means there’s little more inviting than a large bottle of ice cold Star or the slightly hoppier Club. Watch Accra go by on the patio of Lizzy’s (see p35) or Republic (see p35).

Climbing Jamestown 09 Welcome to the most joyous country Lighthouse Although it’s not an official tourist destination, in West Africa – it’s a delight, and Jamestone lighthouse is a here are 51 reasons why… curiosity. For between GH¢5-10 Bad signs/Good signs Is it the best sign ever, or the worst? the family who live under it will ‘TIA’ “This is Africa” Ghan! 07 13 We can’t make up our mind. take you up. It’s a bit rickety and There’s a goat in the not for vertigo sufferers, but the passenger seat of a taxi, the views from the top are amazing. food’s just taken an hour to See p29. turn up and the Oxford Street traffic is static. “TIA man, TIA”. Relax and get on Ghana time.

Catching a gig at 14 Alliance Française This is the best place in Accra to see live music. Whether it’s French beatboxers, afrobeat legends from Nigeria or one of Ghana’s homegrown talent, there’s always something interesting on. Check www. timeout.com/accra for details. Beer sap at And then get… 02 Republic Take one cold pint of Club 15 The ‘An African City’ beer and add a little TV show Accra now has bitter Bissap its very own Sex in the City, and concentrate – you’re Beautiful Kente cloth Few visitors resist picking up a A kick boxing lesson at we love it. This story of 08 10 The welcome Akwaaba! Welcome! left with one of the Take off in the aeroplane restaurant It was a derelict colourful example of this intricately woven, quintessentially Pippa’s Steven Kofi Yeboah returnee women adjusting to 01 03 You’re in Ghana. The sun’s shining, the most refreshing drinks plane. Now it’s a shiny, and very green, restaurant. Cool! It may Ghanaian, material. One of the best places to get it is at the Nubuke is one of Africa’s best kickboxers, life in Accra is intelligent, pool’s waiting, the cocktails are being mixed. known to man. not boast the most groundbreaking menu, but that doesn’t matter Foundation (see p61). A recent project saw them working with Kente so don’t miss the opportunity to moving and very funny. And it’s There’s a country out there waiting for you, and Available at Republic when the interior of La Tante DC 10 Restaurant is so quirky. See p9. cloth-makers who, with the foundation’s help, now make pieces with train with him. The lessons are for free on YouTube. See p8. it’s in a good mood. Bar & Grill (see p35). commercial and international appeal. all ages and all levels. See p69.

12 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 13 Hunting out the gold weights at 21 Multi-coloured the National Museum Brass gold 16 school shirts If only weights were used to weigh gold-dust currency they sold these. The school between the 15th and 19th century in the uniform for older kids is often Asante Kingdom. Some original ones still made from a fabric, colourfully survive – but you’ll need to know what you’re printed with the school logo. looking for. Go to www.timeout.com/accra for a Very cool. full feature.

Kontomire stew at Buka Buka is one of the best 22 places to feast on authentic West African cuisine. Our current favourite (and by this we mean we eat it at least once a week) is the kontomire stew, cooked with cocoyam Playing spot-the- leaves, meat, smoked fish and a spinach tomato sauce. 17 bizarre-football- Amazing. See p40. shirt Scunthorpe United. Notts County’s third kit. We’ve spotted an amazing array of football shirts. Still waiting for a Dukla Prague Away Kit though.

The mohamara at 18 Yasmina Yasmina is one of Ghana’s culinary highlights. It serves incredibly flavoursome authentic Lebanese cuisine. The meatballs, the bread and hummus are untouchable, but it’s the mohamara (spicy walnut spread) that always lingers in the memory.

Highlife at +233 19 The only place in Accra Ghanaian coffin art These days, the world knows where to 23 where you’re pretty much come for a designer death-casket. Fantasy coffins have become A lazy day by the 24 guaranteed to regularly hear one of Ghana’s most talked-about exports, featuring in international Mövenpick pool An oasis highlife live. It’s a cleverly exhibitions, being written about in glossy magazines and being cooed in the middle of the city. The designed venue with an inside over by the culturally curious. But the riotously colourful creations, shallow pool is one of the city’s stage that can be seen and which can take the form of anything from Nike trainers to mobile more inviting sights on a hot day. heard from the outdoor patio. phones, represent far more than just whimsical woodwork, with each Order a smoothie from one of the Settle in, grab a large Star piece taking up to six weeks to make and requiring expert rollerblading waiters and sit back beer, order half a dozen craftsmanship. See p61 to order yours! with a book, taking a dip when it delicious meaty kebabs gets too hot. and hear some of Ghana’s best music.

Pizza at Nicolino’s …And is then recycled by 20 26 The best pizza in Accra? Trashy Bags What Trashy Bags does Could be. Nicolino’s is on an Ghana’s entrepreneurial spirit The is amazing. It employs more than 60 of people 25 airy covered terrace in the leafy entrepreneurial spirit in Accra is strong. Whether it’s a and pays a legion of litter-pickers, then recycles gardens at the Alliance new shop selling bespoke handbags or a vendor touting water bags, colourful yoghurt wrappers and Française. The bubbling pizza fried plantain chips through your taxi window, everyone’s out large canvas banners to produce practical appears from a fiery oven to make a cedi or two. In fact, many of the essentials will fashion items reminiscent of Freitag bags. under the eagle eyes of an come to you. Need phone credit? Cold water? Ice-cream? A Beautiful objects that tick just about every Italian chef. See p48. football shirt? A sacrificial goat? They’re all by the side of green/sustainable box. See p54. www. the road. trashybags.com.

14 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 27 Waakye at Katawodieso Don’t leave Accra until you’ve taken a seat in the courtyard of Katawodieso and eaten waakye, an ungainly mélange of dark black-eyed beans and rice, with meat and some fish, usually eel. The hub of the waakye assemblage is shitor, a peppery condiment made of chilli, dried shrimp and ginger. Delicious. See p44.

Vibrant fabrics from 28 Woodin Woodin and its sister store Vlisco sell Haggling at the Arts 33 fantastically vibrant material. Centre Walking through Get it turned into clothing in the Arts Centre can often have Accra, or bring it home and A sunset party at Kaya How’s this for a sunset cocktail? an element of the pushy- Now 32 reupholster that chair. See Zacapa rum, Morgan Spiced Gold, orange and lime, ginger, haggler scene in Monty p44. maraschino sour cherry liqueur, agave and Angotura bitters, topped with Python’s The Life of Brian. The white beer. Drink it swinging in a wicker chair in Kaya’s chilled-out best tip is to head straight gardens, to the sound of Balearic beats as the sun goes down. See p36 through the tumult at the entrance and make a beeline AVAILABLE for the quieter stalls at the back. Have a price in mind, start low and enjoy the friendly haggling. online

29 Bikelordz in The best Jamestown The Bikelordz are cycling superheroes. Track the guys down in Jamestown if you can, restaurants, but certainly watch the forthcoming documentary about them. See p9. bars, shops, The Sunday lunch A drumming lesson at 30 34 buffet at the Holiday Kingy Drums The Inn Here’s your chance to try infectious smile of Mensah A smoky evening at the 35 hotels, events all of Ghana’s culinary delights welcomes drummers of all abilities Shisha Lounge One of in one go. The Holiday Inn’s at his workshop in Osu. It’s a great Accra’s newest hotspots is the Sunday lunch is a vast affair, way to pass an hour, and you may fun-loving Shisha Lounge, so The homemade burger 36 with a multitude of traditional well be throwing a drum in your named for the pipes that are at Spin Break The patty, and much more dishes. We’d recommend the luggage on the way home – they’re smoked in the patio. It really starts the bun, the relish – it’s all juicy. goat soup, the groundnut soup surprisingly affordable. See p56. bouncing around 1am. See p35. See p48. and – well, everything else too. Plus our digital

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Going all the way to 31 Kumasi for dinner at The View The View has a Renting a waterfront 38 modern menu that wouldn’t lodge at Aqua Safari seem out of place in an This is a beautiful spot on the facebook.com/timeoutaccra upmarket London gastropub. estuary of the Volta River. Its And in its lounge, you can tuck Pain au chocolat at Bread & Wine Nom, nom, nom. luxury lodges are well-appointed @timeoutaccra 37 into small bites including Sitting alongside one of Ghana’s best restaurants is the Bread & with appealing lounge areas – the dry-fried pork and risotto Wine deli and bakery. The pastry chef is French, as is the all- best of them overlook the river. croquettes with homemade important flour. He turns out flavourful bread and pastries – and, See p84. They’re the making of a relish. See p83. wow, those pains au chocolat. Amazing. See p42. perfect getaway, especially one that involves…

16 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 www.timeout.com/accra It’s a 39 Very old taxis shell of a car. The lining is hanging off the roof, the dials on the dashboard remain unmoving and the rear window is clinging on for dear life. The driver is smiling and gospel music is blasting. TIA! You’re in Africa.

Relaxing with a Seeing a boxing bout Boxing is a part 40 44 Ghanaian novel of life in Ghana. Any bout involving a local Inspector Darko Dawson of boxer can draw headlines for days, and a win Accra police has another by a big-name fighter is treated, murder to solve in Kwei understandably, as a national victory. For a The rugby at Cuzzy Bros Sport, sport, sport. 45 Quartey’s latest novel (see chance to catch a bout, ask a taxi driver. The The numerous TVs at Cuzzy Bros are tuned to all p22) while Taiye Selasi’s Ghana big fights are at the National Stadium, manner of sports, but it’s rugby that rules at this South Must Go tells the story of a where you’ll be rewarded with one of Accra’s African-run bar. See p34. Boston family of six – the most memorable nights. mother Nigerian, the father Ghanaian – whose mixed-up lives reshape and retract like a rubber band.

You can surf! If you’re 41 heading west, don’t miss Mr Brights. At Kangaroo Pouch Beach Resort on Busua Beach, lifelong devotee Brett Davies can teach you how to catch a wave. (www.mrbrights.com).

Splash out at Spending an afternoon in the 42 46 Santoku Mixologists will Artists Alliance gallery There are knock you up a Tsuyayaki three large floors of art in the cool marble (Zacapa and sake with galleries here, giving the perfect way to while cardamom, shiso leaves and away an afternoon. Many of Ghana’s most A day by the beach at Kokrobite An hour or so 47 lemon grass syrup) before you important artists are represented here, out of Accra is Kokrobite, the small beach town that’s dig into effortlessly elegant including Owusu Ankomah, George Hughes and become a destination for sun-lovers and pleasure-seekers. dishes such as crunchy soft the gallery’s patron and founder, Ablade Glover. The long-established Big Milly’s (see p79) is something of a shell crab with chilli garlic It’s all for sale. backpackers’ classic – a laid-back hostel with an open bar. mayo, black cod with den miso, There’s a great vibe to the whole beach – and it’s easy to or tea-smoked salmon with pop along and enjoy the day. You’ll also find an exclusive truffle oil and capers. resort, White Sands (see p79) along here too.

Learn about 50 Ghana’s founding fathers To see how national heroes are built, stop off at the mausoleum of Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first president and one of its founding fathers. Across the 48 A luxury break at Royal Senchi Need a break from the city? Give Royal five acres of land are a Senchi a go. It’s one of the most museum, statues, manicured professionally run resorts in the country: gardens and, of course, the the rooms are wonderful, the pool’s mausoleum itself. welcoming and there’s top-notch food. We like. See p84.

Experiencing the fish 43 market in Elmina Our favourite place outside Accra. The clatter and chatter of the fish market is a world unto itself and truly a sight to behold. Don’t miss the chance to see the swarming rainbow palette of batik dresses …Frolicking on the Volta Estuary 49 and football shirts offset by great Take out one of the boats or jet-skis at tubs of crabs, squid and mahi- Aqua Safari and explore the islands of the mahi, all dominated by the painted estuary. hulls of newly returned pirogues, themselves strewn with flags and washing. 51 The smiles Ghana is smiling at you. Smile back!

18 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Celebrity songstress Jane Awindor, a.k.a, Ghana’s new Efya, has been Ghana’s belle of the ball essential cuts since her debut in 2006. Teasing the Eazzy paparazzi with her good looks and dazzling Something of a Ghanaian Nikki Minaj, rapper/singer Eazzy (born audiences with her soulful sounds, she Mildred Ashong) has had a has a top-of-the-game status that still number of successful hits and collaborations. Fusing urban dance, stands strong. What’s more, her much rap and pop music, Eazzy pushes the envelope when it comes to both anticipated new album Love Genesis image and song. Most households got to know her via the Big Brother includes collaborations with some of the TV show in 2012, where her many talents shone through (including music industry’s big boys. Taking a having sex with TV fling Keita under breather over a cocktail, she opened up to the covers). She was nominated for best Hiplife/ Hip Hop artist of the Time Out about her musical influences, the year at the GMAs 2014 but lost out to Sarkodie. new album and Accra’s hotspots. Biggest Hit: Wengeze Similar to: Nikki Minaj Photography by Olivia Tan Listen: In the car with friends Sarkodie TOA: Which venues do you enjoy Putting a little Ghanaian music into my Rap artist Sarkodie (Michael Owusu) playing in? set always helps. has won a catalogue of awards for Efya: The Republic is always a nice his infectious songs, often rapped place to perform at because of the TOA: When did you start singing? in Twi, his native language. He is crowd, especially when you’re doing Efya: I’ve been singing since I was six considered Ghana’s leading talent, indie stuff – it’s a great place to express years old, so that is a long time! being the first Ghanaian to win ‘Best yourself because they don’t judge International Act’ at the BET Awards you. The same goes for the Alliance TOA: What are the principal subjects in 2012 and won ‘Best Hip Hop Française, because it’s all about putting you sing about? Act at this year’s MTV Africa Music on good music and something different. Efya: Most of the time it’s about love Awards. And the National Theatre is up there, and peace and parties. I mean, I’m Biggest Hit: You Gon Kill Me with the stage that goes up and down. young and still experiencing things. I Similar to: Dizzee Rascal don’t want to get too confused about Listen: When you have time TOA: Who have you collaborated with stuff, but I do understand love, so I sing to be inspired and which was the best experience? about love a lot! Efya: Among Ghanaian musicians, it Stonebwoy would have to be Kwame TOA: What can people Dancehall’s go-to boy for radio- Yeboah, D Black, SonniBalli, expect from Love friendly hits, Stonebwoy has songs M.anifest, J-Town and Genesis? that keep coming. Over the last few J-Soul. We all work really Efya: There’s going to be years he’s worked with international well together. I’ve not a lot of different music on artists from Europe and Jamaica. really done any female Highlife there. There’s some soul. He’s heavy on the auto-tune but collaborations yet, ‘cause is a great There’s funk, neo-soul, has lively themes in his songs and you know how it is [laughs]! techno. And it’s great, videos, meaning his musical CV gets International artists? I’ve influence. because the new era of more impressive each year. done songs with Wizkid, music which we have now Biggest Hit: Give it to ‘Dem Black Magic, Lynx and It’s where is all about mixing different (Kwenaamu) Waje, but I think the best I’m from kinds of music. Similar to: (A young Beenie Man, would have to be Sarkodie. Usher NOTHING PLAIN We’ve done a lot of music TOA: Is it exhausting Listen: When getting ready to go out touring so much? together and it always hits for the weekend out – we work Efya: You need to tour to expand your so well together. horizons, to expand your levels. Yes, it’s exhausting, but it’s what we do. Y’Akoto This German-Ghanaian Afro-soul TOA: Which Ghanaian and international songstress has been compared to legends would you like to collaborate TOA: Can you explain the renaissance Billie Holiday and Amy Winehouse. with? of Ghanaian music? Her latest album, Moody Blues, Efya: From Ghana, I’d love to work with Efya: We had to get there one day! I’m has received critical acclaim in ABOUT JANE Amachi Dede – I love him. Rama Brew grateful to be part of it. People aren’t too, because her voice is amazing, rejecting it, it’s a different kind of African Europe, Africa and North America. and also her sister, Bibi Brew. As for music hitting the stores and people like Particularly listenable is ‘Perfect old cats – Rex Omar! It’s nice to know it! We gotta keep the levels high. Timing’, a stylish slow groove that these guys know what I do now – I number with attitude to the max. really appreciate the support they give TOA: Where do you go out to party in Her appeal is wide ranging from me when I want to express myself or Accra? hipsters to jazz fans. Both talented talk to them about new ideas. As for Efya: I’ll go to the Shisha Lounge and and stylish Y’Akoto’s name is internationally, Erykah Badu and Jill we’ll eat some pizza, then maybe to about to go worldwide, well worth Scott for sure – and Jay Z of course. Mövenpick and have some fun in the checking out. bar. Sometimes we go to Excel if we Biggest Hit: ‘Without You’ TOA: How has Ghanahian music been have a show there, and a lot of the time Similar to: Amy Winehouse/ influential to your sound? we go to Shaka Zulu, which is a great Corinne Bailey Rae Efya: Highlife is a great influence before Twist. We always end up in Twist. Listen: On a hot muggy evening because it shows where I’m from. Django we also go to a lot.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 21 ll writers have their specialities. Dr natural symbiosis between the two disciplines. novel. You couldn’t do that in LA – there’s not Kwei Quartey deals in mysteries, “Oh, sure,” Quartey says, speaking to Time so much change.” and perhaps the biggest one of all is Out Accra from his home in Pasadena. “The And why did he choose to focus his new Ahow a medical practitioner finds the detection that you’re doing in medicine is very Darko Dawson mystery on a murder in the oil time to write best-selling similar to the work a police industry? “Oh, oil has crime written all over crime fiction. The Ghana- detective would do. When you it,” he says. “There’s greed, there’s jealousy, born California resident, have a patient come in with all of that good stuff. But on my trips it’s the a full-time doctor, has just a set of complaints, that’s research itself that’s the most enjoyable – released the third in his basically your mystery staring going to different places, discovering new series of Inspector Darko you in the face. You have things I hadn’t discovered before. Things I Dawson mystery novels. to start investigating, and didn’t know about when I was living there as Titled Murder At Cape Three asking questions. As a doctor, a kid. When I come to Ghana, I’ve usually Points, it sees the detective you look for clues just as a chosen the subject so I know what things I’m delving into a controversial detective would.” specifically looking for. Little details like street but topical area: something The son of university names, injecting a bit more flavour into some the blurb describes as lecturers, Quartey grew up in of the scenes.” the “greed and corruption Ghana surrounded by books, Whenever he’s back in town, there are of Ghana’s brand new oil devouring works certain things he makes a point industry”. by the likes of of enjoying. “For me, there are If you’ve not yet come Arthur Conan definitely some must-eat meals. across Inspector Darko Doyle and Enid I’m a huge fan of fufu – I always Dawson, here’s a brief Blyton. He lived It’s about have to have some of that. And introduction. He’s a CID in Ghana until the I like hanging out at Accra Mall. detective in Accra. He has a age of 18, when greed and But coming to Ghana is always weakness for marijuana, an he moved with a chance to see friends and anger management problem his mother to the corruption relatives too.” and a son with a congenital heart defect. He US. Today, he writes his novels in He admits that there are also has a mean eye for crime-solving. In short, the States but sets them in Accra, of Ghana’s aspects of his personality in he’s the kind of complex central character that researching the material on annual oil industry Darko’s character, but stops every successful detective novel needs. So month-long visits to the country of short of calling him an alter ego. much so, in fact, that the first Darko Dawson his birth. If he possessed the same levels novel, Wife of the Gods, made the Los Angeles “On my first research trip, I hadn’t been in of mental insight as his fictional creation, Times bestseller list. The second and third in Ghana for some 15 years or so,” he explains. however, he might have been able to figure out the series have both drawn positive reviews too. “It’s a much more exciting place to write about which country to cheer for when Ghana met the And despite the super-human time than, say, Pasadena or Los Angeles, because USA in the World Cup. “Yeah”, he recalls, still management involved in juggling crime- of the rapid change going on right now in Accra, sitting on the metaphorical fence. “Oh, that writing and medicine (he gets up very early, both economically and socially. It’s been great was a horrible day for me...” apparently), it appears there’s actually a for me to follow the change through each www.kweiquartey.com

“Cape Three Points, the southernmost tip of Excerpt Three other great – opening Ghana, is beautiful and wild. Verdant forest novels set in paragraphs of covers the three finger-like peninsulas that jut Murder at Three Points into the Atlantic Ocean. Dizzying cliffs overlook Ghana Adwoa Badoe the cyan waters. As waves strike the slate grey – Between Sisters A teenage girl, after rocks and burst into gossamer spray, the roar of the sea producing a poor crescendos like the sibilant clash of cymbals. set of exam results, is sent to work as a At dusk, the brightness of the sky melts and softens. The dying nanny, with dramatic consequences. sun lays a wide band of gold across the sea. A full moon rises and Taile Selasi imparts a silver gloss to the dark ocean, silhouetting fishing – Ghana Must Go Set only partly in Ghana, canoes gliding along silently like ghosts. this is a heart-rending story of a family torn The forests and mangrove swamps of the coast are flora and apart – it’s a poetic, poignant read. fauna sanctuaries. In the Gulf of Guinea too, wildlife flourishes, but not without threat. Frolicking bottlenose dolphins and

humpback whales would do well to avoid an alien creature in Nana Ekua their midst. Afloat on powerful, squat limbs, its gangly crane Brew-Hammond – Powder Necklace booms resemble tentacles. From the derrick, its drill descends like The tale of a young Inspector Darko Dawson’s latest mystery finds himself embroiled in the oil girl from London sent a proboscis and penetrates the seabed to extract as much oil as to school in rural industry. Ben Lerwill tracks down the author Dr Kwei Quartey in LA to solve Ghana, where more possible. The creature is the Thor Sterke.” than the occasional how his detective fiction became a best seller stateside shock awaits her.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 23

Explore Museums, galleries and great days out

Sightseeing 26 wandering around just to marvel at the sheer audacity of it all. Sightseeing The Independence Arch, at the ORIENTATION centre of the busy roundabout, is Navigating Accra also known as Black Star Square, thanks to the motif that dominates the arch. The sculpture is a nod to

Sightseeing Sightseeing Ghana’s proud status as the ‘Black Star of Africa’: it was an inspiration to other African countries vying for Nkrumah Memorial Park and Shopping at independence and the Flame of the Centre for National Culture Artists Alliance Gallery African Liberation, lit by Nkrumah, (Arts Centre) before reaching still burns strongly nearby. Please Independence Square and Critic’s note that there are (seemingly Independence Arch – behind the unwritten) laws about camera use square is a long expanse of beach choice – we strongly suggest that you (although it’s not overly inviting for don’t take photographs of any part leisure use). The Centre for National Artists Alliance Gallery. of the area Culture is a maze of hundreds of Still the best venue for stalls selling crafts, textiles, 1 Ghanaian art. See p31. Arts Centre (Centre for instruments and antiques from all National Culture) over West Africa. Elsewhere, the WEB Du Bois Memorial Also known as the Centre for former home of the government, Centre. Bringing context National Culture, this is a popular Osu Castle, is located along the 2 to Accra’s story. See p30. location for visitors looking to pick beach road and included in this up bargain crafts and souvenirs. section. It’s been empty since the National Museum. The The main part of the market, President moved to Flagstaff history of Ghana in a covered by a large roof, is full of ith its main port moving 10 miles (16 kilometres) east to House, although there are tentative 3 nutshell. See p30. stall after stall crammed with Tema, Accra has seemingly turned its back on the Atlantic plans to turn it into a museum – at textiles, carvings, bags, clothing, Ocean. Even the great Independence Square faces inland, Arts Centre. Pick a W time of writing, there was no sign instruments and jewellery. This ignoring the beach and expanse of water behind it. Continuing this of work. souvenir, but be ready to part of the market can be quite theme, the city’s latest developments are also moving further 4 haggle. See p27. intense – expect to be followed inland. But the shape of the town remains largely the same: as a Kwame Nkrumah Memorial around by guys touting poor broad overview, Central Accra lies mostly within the Ring Road that Park & Mausoleum Kwame Nkrumah quality masks. It’s best to run arches from the eastern part of downtown to just beyond Jamestown This national park was opened in Memorial Park. Ghana’s further into the complex, which is in the west. The Ring Road is an essential part of Accra’s founding father. See p26. memory of Osagyefo (the Messiah) 5 not only much quieter but holds infrastructure, constantly used to hop from one neighbourhood to Doctor Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s more interesting treasures such as the next. Roundabouts such as Nkrumah Circle, in Asylum Down, first president and one of its metal ornaments, drums, wood and Danquah Circle, near the shopping and eating centre of Osu and founding fathers. Built on a former non-Ghanaian adult GH¢6 (subject furnishing, antique pieces and Labone, are essential travelling references for drivers. Although British polo field, it was the point to change); extra charge for leather goods. Bargaining is a way loosely split into various districts, the area within the Ring Road is Independendence Arch where Nkrumah declared cameras. of life here, so have fun and have in generally known as the ‘Centre’, which is how it’s referred to independence in 1957. The park mind what you want to spend first. throughout this guide. Almost plum in the middle of the city, consists of five acres of well-tended Independence Square and 28th February Road, near Kwame meanwhile, is Makola Market – a shopping hub that’s become land – full of flowers – and holds a Independence Arch Nkrumah Monument, Accra Centre famous for its domination by women traders. It’s well worth a visit. museum tracing Nkrumah’s life. The stands around Independence (0302 662 581). Open 8.30am-5pm Outside the Ring Road are the wealthier districts of Cantonments Discover Accra There are various personal items on Square, bearing modernist and Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat-Sun. and Airport Residential. The biggest current expansion is around display, although the centrepiece is Soviet-influenced design, can seat Airport Residential, the area surrounding Kotoka International Airport Welcome to West Africa’s most exciting city the mausoleum, the final resting 30,000 people. The vast area, built Osu Castle and Accra Mall (see p49). Condominiums, plush hotels, and of place of Nkrumah and his wife. under Kwame Nkrumah, was Osu Castle is still closed to the course the mall itself, make this a notable area. It’s certainly a good Tours in English can be taken. constructed to host huge events and public, despite lying empty. The place to stock up on international goods. Airport Residential is also o here you are. You’ve more relaxed Artists Alliance Kwame Nkrumah is an essential military marches, but it’s usually chequered history of the building home to various embassies and consulates, as well as some good negotiated the airport (and Gallery, where you’ll see the best Accra centre part of Ghana’s history and a good empty save for a few soldiers reflects the history of the Ghanaian cafés and restaurants, with more opening soon. Sthe taxi drivers outside), works from well established and half-hour here will fill you in on sheltering from the sun. The only nation. Initially called you’ve had a good night’s sleep upcoming Ghanaian artists. Along the traffic-choked arteries of most of the details. Events are held times the square comes alive are at Christiansborg Castle, it was built (no doubt after a welcome bottle The neighbourhood of High Street and 28th February here on 6 March for independence commercial events such as concerts by Danish colonialists in 1659 on repeatedly changed hands between castle stands as a poignant of Club Beer), and the morning Jamestown, the oldest part of the Road, which run parallel to the anniversary celebrations, and on 1 and fashion shows, which take land bought from a tribal chief in Portugal, Sweden and Denmark. reminder of the slave trade that has dawned clear and hot. So how city, offers an earthy but friendly Atlantic Coast, you’ll find major August to mark Emancipation Day. place sporadically throughout the Accra. Over the following hundred Sometimes it was taken over by was largely administered from the to experience the best of Accra? experience, plus one of the best banks, multinational offices and the High Street (0302 671 610). Open year. Even if there’s not much years, the fort – then smaller than force, other times it was building – indeed, it was often Dive into the sights in these pages viewpoints of the city – if you dare High Court. The road then opens 10am-6pm daily. Admission happening, however, it’s worth the current construction – bought. In one incident in used to house slaves such as the National Museum or scale the wobbly steps to the top out and whisks past the Kwame Ghanaian adult GH¢0.50; 1693, the Akwamu before they were the WEB Du Bois Memorial of Jamestown Lighthouse. Osu, Oxford Street in Osu ethnic group Top tip! shipped to the Centre, and you’ll find out how and in particular Cantonments Independence Square occupied the fort for Online maps Americas. There are Ghana became the ‘Black Star of Road (known as Oxford Street), is several months For mapped locations plans to turn it into Africa’, praised by President the liveliest part of the town, full of before their canny of all the sights and more, a museum, Obama when he visited for its hawkers, beeping taxis, street leader, Assameni, be sure to go to www. although nothing stable, democratic and stalls, bars and restaurants. The sold it back to the timeout.com/accra where concrete has been entrepreneurial spirit, how the accolade for the fastest-growing Danish for 50 marks you’ll find them announced so far. nation’s disparate tribes came district, meanwhile, goes to the of gold – around pin-pointed The road is often together under one flag, and how area around the airport – at least US$350,000 today. blocked off by soldiers the country broke away from the to judge by the cranes building However, the keys were and photography is still British under the watchful eyes of ever more high-rises. There’s also never officially returned to the forbidden – this may be the country’s controversial hero, plenty of development north of the Danish and even now remain relaxed soon. Kwame Nkrumah, and the father airport in East Legon. symbolically in the possession of of the Pan-Africanism movement, Accra is a thrilling city to the Akwamu. After it fell into Jamestown WEB Du Bois. discover. It’s chaotic, loud, fun disrepair, the British rebuilt most The oldest and poorest area of But you’ll also uncover the and thoroughly West African, of the fort in 1824, after which it Accra is also one of the most alive. vibrant arts scene at the chaotic although not at the expense of became the seat of the Gold Coast Jamestown is vibrant, smelly and but endlessly fascinating Centre offering up luxury and world-class colony, remaining so until noisy, sound-tracked by the clatter for National Culture (which amenities. Step out of your hotel independence in 1957. Kwame of pans, the babble of radios and despite its name is essentially a and into Accra with an open mind Nkrumah, Ghana’s first president, the roar of exhausts. Low large energetic craft market, or the and you’ll be amply rewarded. moved there in 1960. Today the corrugated-iron roofs stand over

26 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 27 painted shops and busy houses. Inland from the harbour is Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park & Mausoleum Sightseeing Wandering chickens negotiate another remnant of the British era between open drains and life- – the Methodist Church, built endangering potholes, while from imported bricks. washing-cobwebbed courtyards Of further note is Brazil House act as pitches for spontaneous (0208 173 143, Brazil Lane), a football games. restored empire-era house that has It wasn’t always quite like this. been transformed into a museum Prior to the city becoming the chronicling the history of Ghana’s capital of the British Gold Coast in Afro-Brazilian returnees. Known as 1877, the Jamestown district was the Tabom people (the reply to ‘how once the hub for a succession of are you?’ in Portuguese is ‘ta bom’), Portuguese governments. Amid they returned to Accra as a today’s ramshackle streets, the 70-strong group on the British colonial handiwork can still be seen. government’s SS Salisbury in 1836. And despite the apparent poverty, Local boxer Azumah Nelson is a the quarter still makes for a safe descendant of one of the returnees. and friendly place through which to Jamestown, unsurprisingly, is also wander during the day. More than one of the most densely populated anywhere else in Accra, there’s an areas of the city. Ghanaian tradition evident sense of community. stipulates that funerals should be Two buildings dominate the held in the deceased’s place of birth, waterfront skyline. Fort James, and, as such, wakes can be built by the British in the 17th witnessed almost every weekend. century, commands deep views over They tend to be admirably upbeat the Atlantic from a perch above the occasions to witness. fishing harbour. It served as a prison until recently and there’s no Usher Town chance of entering, but it’s still of Ussher Fort Museum interest as a peeling, whitewashed Towards the centre of Accra is memento of days past. Usher Town, which links Also of historical interest (and seamlessly with Jamestown along also pretty dodgy photo-wise) is the High Street. Ussher Fort Museum is nearby colonial-era Jamestown the most important sight in this development and impact is told Osu Lighthouse, built in the 1930s. It’s area. It was built by the Dutch (who inside the museum through wall Osu is probably the most not a tourist attraction in the usual named it Fort Crevecoeur in 1649, paintings, as well as displays happening part of town. The busy sense – no gift shops or ticket only for it to be later rechristened showing articles once used by the Cantonments Road, known to offices here – but stray within Ussher Fort after a British captors and their victims. Exhibits virtually everyone as Oxford Street, twenty metres and you’ll inevitably administrator). include shackles, weaponry, clay is a hub of activity 24 hours a day. be accosted by a ‘guide’ offering to A former slave-holding area like drinking cups and large grinding Many of Accra’s best bars (see take you to the top for a few cedi Jamestown Fort, it was used as a stones. There’s also a model of a pp34-38, Bars, pubs & clubs), (usually around GH¢10 each). If prison until the 1990s but has now slave vessel, in addition to murals restaurants (see pp39-48, you’re willing to part with the cash, undergone a UNESCO-funded depicting the coming of the Restaurants & cafés) and shops there’s a good panoramic view from restoration to preserve it as a Europeans and their subsequent (see pp49-56, Shopping) are based the top of the (possibly not overly reminder of Ghana’s past. The treatment of slaves. here. Stalls line the street and safe) spiral staircase. story of the slave industry’s Tours can currently be taken of hawkers hover in the hope of the building, including a look at selling personalised wristbands and Ussher Fort where Ghana’s national hero, fake football shirts. Kwame Nkrumah, was held. High Street, 500m east of Oxford Street Jamestown Fort (0302 664 268). Cantonments Road, between Lokko Open 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat. Road and the busy Danquah Admission Ghanaian adult Circle, might be known as GH¢1.50; non- Oxford Street, but it Ghanaian adult GH¢9; shares little with extra charge for TOP tip! London’s shopping Photography cameras. hotspot. The only Taking photographs of similarity, perhaps, many of the public sights Makola Market is the volume of we’ve here can often get Buffering Usher people and traffic. unwanted attention. Be Town and the city It’s probably the subtle or, better, avoid centre is one of busiest street in completely. Accra’s most Accra, and the site of pulsating experiences: countless bars, clubs, Makola Market. Almost restaurants and boutique anything you could hope to buy can shops. It has no specific tourist be found within this sprawling sights as such, but a constant maze. Like a contemporary souk, a bustle makes it an essential part of network of passageways, roads, any visit. buildings and paths weave through Expect some friendly hassle at the area, where vendors, mostly the northern end of the street (one women, sell an impossibly large scam is to ask your name and then array of produce, clothes and home appear 20 minutes later with it supplies. Surprisingly, you’re embroidered on a wristband), but unlikely to be hassled much, this this dissipates further down. The being a marketplace predominantly area gets even busier during the for the city’s residents. Not all evenings when revellers hit the bars tourists visit the area, but we’d – many of the shops and certainly advise spending some restaurants are actually off time soaking up its sights, sounds Cantonments Road, on the quieter and scents. numbered lanes. At one end of

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 29 Cantonments Road is the busy webdubois-gh.org). Open 9am- Jamestown Lighthouse Sightseeing Danquah Circle (a roundabout on 4.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. RECOMMENDED the Ring Road), which takes its Admission GH¢3 for a tour (GH¢1 GUIDED TOURS National Museum of Ghana name from one of Ghana’s founding for camera). Follow the lead of an expert fathers, JB Danquah. It’s generally crowded day and night. Adabraka & Asylum Down North of Jamestown and just

Sightseeing Cantonments & Labone within the Ring Road are the Further north on the Cantonments neighbourhoods of Ridge and Road, over the Danquah Circle, Adabraka – two lively communities you’ll reach the neighbourhood centered around the Nkrumah known as Cantonments. It’s one of Circle. This area is a mish-mash of the wealthiest areas of Accra, home offices, street stalls and commercial to embassies, consulates and buildings. Towards the centre heavily-guarded houses. from the ring road are the The highlight here is National Museum the WEB Du Bois TOP tip! of Ghana and the Memorial Centre. Safety National Theatre. Labone, to the east Global Accra is a remarkably safe Mama’s of Osu, is a city by African standards, National cooking tour pleasant and but always take care after Museum of quieter area, dark. It’s best to travel Ghana although somewhat with someone in taxis See picture review If you really want to push the PO Box CT 1946, Cantonment, dispersed. It has too. right. boat out on a trip to the region, Accra (0244 363 360, several good Barnes Road, there are a range of public or www.connectworldgroup.com). restaurants and cafés. Adabraka (0302 221 private tours – many of them 633). Open 9am-6pm themed – that can make a visit Ghana Nima Tours Flagstaff House Tues-Sun. Admission GH¢12 (plus to Accra, or any other part of With his infectious smile and There is, quite simply, no other GH¢20 photography permit). Ghana. Highly recommended are boundless sincerity, Charles building on earth like Accra’s Charles Sablah’s Ghana Nima Sablah is a reliable and safe new(ish) presidential palace and National Theatre Tour and Global Mama’s. guide, and you leave feeling government seat, Flagstaff House. The unmistakable architecture of someone has given you The unique architecture is said to the National Theatre deserves to be Abacar Tours privileged insight. He charges be based on the sacred Asante seen – it’s been described as Set up by a Ghanaian/French just GH¢5 per hour per person, Golden Stool, emblematic of the representing either a ship or, more couple, this tour agency is and offers a special discount birth of the kingdom, although the abstractly, a seagull spreading its recommended by the Ghanaian price for groups. cost of construction has inspired a wings. Chinese developers built the Tourist Board. Its main tours are (024 627 0095, http:// passionate debate. It was completed theatre and its 1992 opening saw it either one- or two-week ghana-nima-tours.yolasite.com) in 2009, but the president and staff become the centrepiece for cultural itineraries, although bespoke only moved there in early 2013. life in Ghana. Today it’s home to the tours can be booked. The guides Ghana Safari Tours Liberation Road. National Symphony Orchestra, the 5am-7pm. Bars, restaurants and a venue was conceived in the 1960s are also Francophone. Ghana Safari Tours was set up National Theatre Players, the few shops are on offer. Expect loud by Ablade Glover, one of Ghana’s 39 Bobo Street, Tesano, Accra by Swedish nationals and their WEB Du Bois Memorial Centre National Dance Company and three music and flying footballs, but it’s most respected artists. He saw the (0249 574 691, www.abacar- Ghanaian partner who has William Edward Burghardt Du Bois youth groups. Its events calendar is not the cleanest beach, so best not need for a showcase for fine arts in tours.com). first-hand experience of was an African-American civil getting better all the time, but it to swallow too much water. Ghana, to act as a driving force to Ghanaian safaris and other rights activist who became a citizen still seems seriously under-used. It’s also home to the excellent gain recognition around the world. Apstar Tours adventure tours. There are a of Ghana in the 1960s. He was Liberia Road and Independence resorts of Labadi Beach Hotel Today you’ll find not only Founded in 1987, Apstar is a wide range of existing and known as the ‘Father of Pan- Avenue, Adabraka (0302 663 449, (see p76) and La Palm Royal contemporary arts but some real member of the Tour Operators bespoke tours for reasonable Africanism’. The centre, where he facebook.com/ Beach (see p76). Both have good collectors’ pieces: beautiful, fragile Union of Ghana (TOUGHA), and prices covering many areas. and his wife once lived and are now NationalTheatreofGhana). pools to enjoy, as does the Asafo flags with appliquéd and has a focus on history. There (www.ghanasafaritours.com). buried, houses his personal library Mövenpick (see p75). embroidered symbols, and ancient are standard day tours and and a small museum with a handful Labadi strip-woven Kente cloths. It sells art bespoke longer tours for all Global Mamas of personal effects, such as his Further east in Labadi you’ll find Artists Alliance Gallery directly from the artist. There’s a group sizes. The tours offered by Global graduation robes. The couple’s the city’s most popular beach – at This three-storey gallery exhibits good gift shop with miniature 36 Forest Road, Accra (0302 Mamas, an NGO dedicated to mausoleum is surrounded by weekends the place is filled with works by a large range of Ghanaian coffins, Kente cloth and other 519 931, www.apstartours. fostering women-owned Asante stools, a seminar room, a families frolicking in the surf and artists and sculptors, among them quality souvenirs. travel). enterprises, are likely to tick the restaurant, a gallery, an youngsters playing football. If you Augustine Gokah, Betty Acquah, Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach right boxes for most visitors to amphitheatre and a research centre go through the main entrance by Nii T Mills, Ebenezer Borlabie, Kofi Road, Labadi (0302 762 576, www. BLASTours Ghana. In Accra, there is the for Pan-African history and culture. Labadi Beach Hotel there’s a Setorji and Gabriel Eklou. The artistsallianz.com). Admission free. A Ghanaian-owned tour operator day-long ‘Market & Spice’ tour Off 2nd Circular Road, cost of GH¢3 from Mon-Fri and specialising in cultural tours. It and a ‘Drumming & Dancing Cantonments (0302 776 502, www. GH¢5 on Sat and Sun, between Jamestown Methodist Church offers a bespoke service for Workshop’ – GH¢17 for three or The National Museum is home to some of Ghana’s most absorbing tourists and business travellers more, or GH¢21 for two people. historical relics. It was opened by the Duchess of Kent in 1957, and Labadi Beach and can organise transport, In Cape Coast, Global Mamas it gives an opportunity to travel through the country’s past from hotel accommodation, home- offers cooking, batik and both an archaeological and ethnographic perspective. Much of the stays, guides and conference headwrapping workshops. Great display is dedicated to indigenous art and crafts: there are regalia, equipment for meetings. fun and very worthwhile musical instruments and the all-important royal Asante stools. Other Sakumono, Tema (0302 14th Lane, off Cantonments exhibits include Asante gold weights, currency, instruments, textiles 404460, www.blastours.com). Road (Oxford Street), behind and leatherwork. Slightly hidden away is the chair used in Kwame Koala Supermarket, Osu (0244 Nkrumah’s inauguration, as well as the chair of the last British ConnectWorld Travel 530 467, governor, rescued from Christiansborg Castle. The section of the Services www.ghanaexpeditions.com). museum dedicated to the slave trade is essential viewing, outlining ConnectWorld is licensed by the its brutal history and exhibiting poignant reminders of the era. The Ghana Tourist Board and holds Royal Derby Tours attraction as a whole is a tired-looking place, certainly, (and the membership to ASTA. It offers Part of a large company that has staff were more absorbed in WWF wrestling last time we visited) but tours across Ghana and also in tours across West Africa, Royal it’s somewhere that helps give a broader understanding of this neighbouring Togo, Benin, Mali Derby is a well-established firm. complex society. Hopefully the new director will breathe more life and Burkina Faso. The tour The Ghanaian tours tend to be into the museum. options cover culture, history, five days or more. Barnes Road, Adabraka (0302 221 633). Open 9am-6pm Tues-Sun. adventure, eco-tourism and (244 949 225, www. Admission GH¢12 (plus GH¢20 photography permit). recreational travel. royalderbytours.com).

30 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 31

Consume All the best restaurants, cafés, bars and shops

Bars, Pubs & Clubs 34 Restaurants 39 Shopping 49 plus an indoor bar and lounge. They RECOMMENDED turn out great pizzas from the bespoke oven, plus sharing platters. Republic Bar & Grill There are, of course, shisha pipes to hire if you’d like to indulge. It’s a classy well-thought out joint that steamed to the top of the Accra VIP

Bars, Pubs & Clubs Bars, Pubs & Clubs list. This is a place that is all about the good times! 14th Lane, Osu (023 355 1515, Off Cantonments Road (Oxford www.facebook.com/pages/Shisha- Street), behind Frankie’s (024 7474 Shisha Lounge Lounge). Open daily from 6pm to 007, facebook.com/bellaroma.accra). very late. Open 6pm-late. Critic’s Venus Cuzzy Bro’s choice The leafy courtyard at Venus While Ryan’s Bar (the former remains a popular spot by day for occupant of this site) was a much Kaya. Unbeatable outdoor young travellers tapping away on Bars, Pubs & Clubs Bars, loved venue, Cuzzy Bro’s instantly location and unbeatable MacBooks, enjoying a coffee or filled the gap for expats looking for 1 cocktails. See p36. ordering a bite to eat from the quality beer, good food and sport on reasonably-priced Lebanese-inspired the telly. The focus for Cuzzy Bro’s Republic. The street bar is menu. The air-conditioned bar also is outdoors in the large grounds: one of the liveliest venues seems a world away from the busy there are two al fresco bars selling, 2 in Accra. See p35. intersection outside. By night, the thank heavens, an interesting cocktails and beer consumption selection of beer, including Champs. It’s back! And ramp up and Venus becomes a lively Erdinger, Chimay, Fuller’s London it’s better. Beer, burgers bar. Also in the same area is an Pride and ESB. It’s a lively place to 3 and footie. See p38. outlet of D-Café and a kebab bar hang out on a weekend evening, One of the most happening bars in Accra right now, thanks to its (also run by Venus). especially when there’s live music Shisha Lounge. One of the relaxed, music-forward approach to the good things in life: alcohol, 11th Lane, off Cantonments Road – jazz is popular. The food is solid hottest new places in the fried food and really great music. It’s a tiny space that tumbles out (Oxford Street), (0302 782 250, pub grub, with all the meat 4 city. See p35. onto the street when things really kick off late on a Friday or www.bybloshotelghana.com). Open imported from South Africa; the Saturday. Album covers and black-and-white photos of music stars 9am-1am Mon-Thur; 9am-3am Fri, home-ground burgers are our Santoku. The food is adorn the walls as Ghana’s best music blasts out (often live on the Sat; 4pm-1am Sun. choice. There’s a ‘spit braai’ (spit amazing, but so are the terrace; check out the Facebook page and Twitter account for details roast) on Wednesday evenings and 5 cocktails. See p36. – highlife legend Ebo Taylor has even played here). Even the cocktails Adabraka & Asylum Down Sunday lunchtimes (GH¢70). The use great ingredients not found anywhere else: the Republica is a Champs Sports Bar inside area is basic, but refreshingly caipirihna made from traditional palm wine. On a sunny day (and yes, See picture review, p38. cool, and the many TVs cater chainmail curtain gesturing a it’s always sunny), try one of their ‘Wild Beers’: the Beer Sap has mainly to sports fans – rugby is a divide between drinkers and diners. bissap concentrate added to it. Fittingly, the food is good beer fodder Labone Kaya theme across the pub. You’ll see 11th Lane, Embassy Road (0302 too – the cassava chips are a fabulous drinking accompaniment, while NEW Shakes-N-Flavours Super 12 team shirts on the wall, 777 818, Facebook page). Open the Fire Go Burn You pepper soup and Ye Ye Goat curry, for around This new little smoothie and in a nod to the owners’ South 5pm-3am Tue-Sun. GH¢12, are superb value for something this tasty. milkshake bar is a very welcome African heritage. 3rd Lane, off Oxford Street (024 631 4044, facebook.com/ place to be on a hot day. Ice-cool air Troas Street, off Cantoments Road Lizzy’s RepublicBarGH, @TheRepublicGH). Open noon-2am Mon-Sat; con, delicious drinks and wifi all Mixing your drinks (Oxford Street) (026 608 6003, Ahh, Lizzy’s. There’s a little place in 4pm-2am Sun. help. The fresh ingredients shine cuzzybro.com.gh). Open noon-11pm our heart for Lizzy’s. Little more than through and there are some nice Get ready for one almighty party Mon-Thur; noon-midnight Fri; a few plastic chairs on a street combinations – we can vouch for 10pm-midnight Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. corner, flanked by some very big Lounge @ Frankie’s Monsoon the Banberry, a banana, nutmeg, speakers, this beer-fuelled spot is an Situated on the second floor of Some of the lustre has worn off pineapple and strawberry blend. ightlife in Accra moves and a lairy crowd spills onto the best places in the city where you Duplex Lounge and Bar edifying experience. Away from the Frankie’s is this surprising little this Oxford Street venue in light of There are also a few snacks such as faster than a mixologist’s road to party. It’s an earthy place, can order a beer or cocktail The ever-popular Duplex has pretence of some Accra nightspots, lounge and bar. While the rest of new competition. That said, it’s still burgers, sandwiches and, of course, Nstirrer. What’s hot one and the better for it. In other without feeling obliged to order a moved location within Osu and, if it’s reassuringly down-to-earth and the Frankie’s complex feels like the a fairly popular choice for the expat chicken and rice. week will be in the doldrums the news, the much-loved Champs meal as well. anything, is now more popular. The one of the best places to mix with fast food restaurant that it is, community, who come to Josiah Tongogari Road, next. It’s a fickle but fun scene, Sports Bar has returned under décor is brighter and more Accra residents. Fridays and through the frosted glass doors is a enjoy its broad street- Labone (0302 797 541, whether you’re in the mood for a its original name after a brief upmarket, and the small outside Saturdays are when it really swings, much more sophisticated area. The facing terrace. DJs play facebook.com/ cocktail mixed from Tanqueray 10 spell as the Lexington. Bars, Pubs terrace fills up quickly on balmy and the mood and music both air conditioning is usually set to Friday and Saturday Toptip! ShakesnFlavors). and a lavender and rose liqueur Fortunately, the excellent burgers nights. It has an easy-going attitude step up in tempo around 10pm. ‘arctic’ – worth that alone. night. With three Late nights Open 10am-10pm (head to Kaya) or an ice-cold remain, but the vibe is back to a & Clubs and manages to feel exclusive Order a large Star and watch Accra. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) restaurants on site Nightlife in Accra starts Mon-Sat; 1-10pm imported beer in front of the rugby sports bar full of TVs, pool tables without being in the least bit Contonments Road (Oxford Street), (0302 773 567, www.frankies- (including a late and ends late. Many of Sun. (that’s Cuzzy Bro’s). In between and karaoke nights. It’s hugely Osu snobbish. It’s popular with the opp Papaye (0302 783 278). Open ghana.com). Open 7am- teppanyaki kitchen the bars don’t get going the expat sports bar and the popular. Nightclubs haven’t fared Bella Roma young expat crowd. 10am-late Mon-Sat; 6pm-late Sun. 11.30pm daily. and a sushi outlet), until around 11pm Robi’s Dutch Pub candlelit, bespoke-blend cocktail quite so well, thanks largely to Even in the face of stiffened Off Kuku Hill, near NDC there’s good food to and continue long into There’s no chance club, however, there’s plenty to the quality of the weekend parties competition, Bella Roma remains a Headquarters, Osu (0245 999 999). Cuzzy Bros be had too. the morning. of missing Robi’s discover. One of the most recent run by late-night restaurants such popular nightspot, especially when Open noon-late daily. 41 Cantonments Road Dutch Pub. Its bright high-profile openings is the as Kaya, Bread & Wine and there’s a guest DJ (Tim Westwood (Oxford Street), above Osu orange façade (what other Shisha Lounge in Osu – its heady Santoku. Elsewhere, there’s a showed up last time we were there). Firefly Lounge Bar Food Court (0302 782 307). colour could it be?) shines like blend of top DJs, generous good number of highly creative It combines good cocktails, good Firefly is a confident nightspot and Open 6pm-late Mon-Sat. a beacon for homesick Dutch – as cocktails and shisha pipes has take-over nights and pop-up bars music and good vibes. It’s set just off one of the city’s most popular bars well as pretty much anyone with a quickly created a real buzz. And to which are very much worth Oxford Street behind Frankie’s, but – the industrial chic of its Republic Bar & Grill nose for a drink in pleasant complicate listings matters, some checking out. They’re usually on weekend evenings you’ll hear the whitewashed brickwork, dim See picture review above. surroundings. The eponymous Robi of the best cocktails – and vibe announced a couple of days music first. The venue itself teeters lighting and edgy beats attracts a amiably presides over the drinking. – can also be found at before the event. We list them at somewhere between a bar and preened international clientele. A Shisha Lounge Upstairs is a more relaxed affair, restaurants such as Santoku and www.timeout.com/accra, and nightclub – walking into the joint, to back-lit bar glows with premium The Shisha Lounge is Osu’s newest where the open kitchen cooks Bread & Wine (see p42). publish them on Facebook and the left is a partially open-air blends, and cocktail aficionados, hotspot, filled well into the night authentic Dutch snacks such as Falling through the categories is Twitter (@TimeOutAccra). dancefloor with a DJ usually spirit lovers and wine drinkers alike with partygoers attracted by its bitterballen (meatballs), sausages Republic, arguably Accra’s most Many of the establishments spinning crowd-pleasing dance and pull up stools to confer with chatty laidback vibe, outdoor seating, and chips. happening bar. People either love here also offer food (the best of hip hop. Inside is banquette seating staff sporting black shirts, braces superb DJ roster and some very fine Dade Street, Labone (024 526 3582, it or hate it. Little more than a these are listed in the Restaurant and another dancefloor. This is a fun and the odd jauntily angled hat. cocktails. It’s a small, but well- www.dutchpub.com). Open roadside bar in Osu by day, by section; see pp39-48), so the place to hang out, especially when Food ranges from light nibbles to designed space with a series of noon-10am Mon-Thur; noon- night the DJs turn up the tunes ones we’ve included here are the there are special events happening. three-course meals, with a silver patios, outdoor lounge seating areas, midnight Fri; 3pm-midnight Sat.

34 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 35 Cantonments Monsieur Desailly himself NEW Kaya Terrace Bar wandering about the complex when OUTDOOR IMBIBING Kaya meaning ‘home’ in both he’s in Ghana. Best places to drink under the sun Japanese and Zulu and “pure” in Cotton Street, East Legon (0302 521 Greek, and wellbeing lies at the heart 851, www.lizzysportscomplex.com). of this multi-experience. See p43 for the restaurant review, p54 for the Airport City design shop and p56 for the Rhapsody’s wellbeing activities. Here, we care Rhapsody’s is close to both the about the beautiful outdoor bar. airport and its surrounding hotels, Kaya is at its most alluring at night, ensuring the South African chain when the sparkling terrace is draws a steady supply of expats and illuminated and transformed into moneyed locals to sample its one of Accra’s best party venues. extensive drink and cigar selection. The vibe is soulful sounds and jazz. There are two halves to the interior On Fridays it becomes resident to – an informal lounge, complete with one of Accra’s most renowned DJs, panel-lit horseshoe bar and football who draws a younger crowd to the on widescreen TVs, and a white- Bars, Pubs & Clubs Bars, very buzzy cocktail bar. The tableclothed restaurant with padded cocktails are unmissable, with wall fabrics. Things crank up a hyperactive mixologists using notch on Fridays and Saturdays inventive ingredients to create when DJs spin tunes: expect sizeable masterpieces. crowds, and be aware that you’ll 1-10 Link Road, Cantonments, near have to pay if you arrive post-11pm. US Embassay (0540 109 501). It’s popular for business meetings. Shops 66-68, Accra Mall, Spintex East Legon Road (0302 823 148, Lizzy’s Sports Complex www.rhapsodys.co.za). Open This is footballer Marcel Desailly’s noon-midnight Sun-Thur; noon-2am impressive sporting complex and its Fri, Sat. sports bar attracts the big names who live in East Legon, as well as Santoku members of the corporate league Since opening, the bar here at who play here on Friday and Japanese restaurant Santoku is fast Saturday nights. The outdoor bar establishing itself as a drinks Yes, the city’s hot. Really hot. Whether it’s a quick cold beer in the overlooks a pool and a couple of the destination in its own right. sun or, more agreeably, enjoying an ice-cool cocktail as the sun goes five-a-side pitches, but eyes are just Alongside its amazing menu (see down, the venues below are the best drinking spots to head for. as likely to be found on the screens p45) is one of Accra’s best cocktail Balmy nights on terraces or in gardens are becoming a stock in for the big games. And don’t be lists, retaining the same international trade in Accra – restaurants in particular are looking to their outdoor surprised if you see the hands-on standard as the food. While the spaces to continue the party, by the pool, on the roof or wherever fits. Some of these offer fantastic settings: Bread & Wine has a Shakes-N-Flavours stunning pool area with an amazing modernist bar, while Yasmina will be opening a luxury roof-top bar overlooking the airport at Marina Mall. These aren’t your average beer gardens. Also checking out www.timeout.com/accra for outdoor events such as Roof on Fire (www.facebook.com/Roofonfiregh) and Live on the Terrace (www. facebook.com/VillaMonticello) at Villa Monticello.

1. Kaya No bar in Accra has a lovelier location. The gorgeous gardens of this quiet colonial residence are a peaceful place, but when you throw in some swinging wicker furniture, lamps hanging from the sprawling tree (soon to be a real centrepiece of the venue), candle-light and chilled beats, you’ve got an unbeatable Ibiza sunset-vibe. See p36.

2. Bread & Wine As well as being home to one of Accra’s best restaurants, Bread & Wine’s setting is impressive in itself. It’s another large house hidden away from the bustle of Osu with immaculate gardens. There’s an inviting pool and a wonderful modernist bar structure – grab a glass of cold French white and relax. See p42.

3. Republic In the early evening, this Osu bar comprises little more than a couple of plastic tables and chairs outside to watch the world roll by, but by night the energy cranks up along with the volume and there’s dancing on the street. See p35.

4. Cuzzy Bro’s When the new owners took over, they had plans to start with the interior – before they realised everyone wanted to be outside. The patio has two bars, TVs, a stage and a good time vibe. See p34.

5. Soho Bar & Soho Terrace at Yasmina Although it wasn’t quite open when we went to print, we’ve had a sneak peek and this is going to be a seriously impressive luxury rooftop venue, with the added thrill of planes flying overhead from the airport. See p38.

36 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 mixologists can turn their spinning often live music on Wednesdays and hands to the classics, it’s the venue’s it occasionally hosts the Bless the own signature cocktails that are of RECOMMENDED Mic collective, as well as art real interest – original creations Champs Sports Bar & Grill exhibitions. Things really get going worth sampling include Santoku late. His Grand Papazz, a VIP-only Spicy, Pom-Fashioned (featuring area, is next door. Havana Añejo Especial rum and Osu Avenue Extension, behind pomegranate molasses mixed with Police HQ and Japanese Embassy, apple and lychee juice and a dash of Cantonments (054 945 0543, Angostura bitters, then shaken and facebook.com/pages/Rockstones- served short over ice). Other drinks OfficeGrand-Papazz). Open include award-winning sakes, 5pm-midnight Mon-Thur; 5pm-5am Japanese whiskies and one of the Fri-Sun. best wine lists in the city. Ground Floor, Azure, Villagio Vista, Twist Tetteh Quarshie Interchange (0544 Twist remains a fairly popular joint, 311 511, www.santoku-restaurant. despite much more competition. com). Bar & lounge open 5pm-1am The bar caters to a set who loiter Bars, Pubs & Clubs Bars, daily; restaurant 6.30am-midnight.. around the outdoor patio of the large garden before returning back Silver Lounge into the fray. Silver Lounge is very silver indeed. Number 8, 5th Circular Road, Above the boutiques and homeware opposite Alisa Hotel, Cantonments outlets of Accra Mall, this is a (0302 772 179, www.headlines.gh. cocktail haunt clad in a vast array of com). Open 4pm-12am Tue-Thur; metallic shades. Where drinks are 4pm-2am Fri-Sat. concerned, one of the more pungent is Income Tax, a heady mix of gin, NEW Whisky Mist at martini rosso, dry martini and Champs is back. After a brief but enjoyable flirt as The Lexington, Icon House orange juice. the sports bar vibe has been reinstalled at the Paloma Hotel Run by the people behind Santoku, First floor, Accra Mall, Tettah Complex on the Ring Road. The pool tables are back (one of the few Icon House opens its doors in Quashie and Spintex Road (0302 places in Accra you can play), as are the many TVs, the karaoke autumn 2014. This luxury lifestyle 823 040, www.silverbirdghana.com). nights (Friday) and the Thursday quiz evenings. You’ll still be able to food and beverage concept spans Open 9am10.30pm Mon-Thur; 9am- enjoy disc-spinners such as DJ Black, DJ KillerFingers and DJ Vision, three floors, with a café and cocktail 2am Fri, Sat. as well as live music at weekends. There’s also a new menu with lounge, a restaurant (Urban Grill, the usual sports bar fare, including chicken wings, excellent sliders, see p45) and Whisky Mist is a NEW Soho Bar & Soho Terrace steaks and fish and chips. Expect all major sporting events to be nightclub with members’ bar. After a sneak peek of the nearly shown here on the eight large screens and four projector screens. Located on the top floor, and complete room above Yasmina we 40 Ring Road, Paloma Hotel Complex (024 095 9406, straight from London, Whisky Mist can see its impressive potential. It’s www.champafrica.com). Open 5pm to late Mon-Thur; 11am to late has a rooftop chill-out terrace and described as a restaurant lounge, Fri-Sun. JW Blue private members area. The and will be a classy affair – it’s by venue was designed by award- the same owners of Yasmina (see winning architects Graven Images. p41). There’s a very long bar and Thur-Sat. Admission GH¢15 after – ask taxi drivers for this name). For more on the retail offering, then seating around the large midnight, ladies free. Reggie has succeeded in creating a which so far includes La Maison, circular room. Upstairs will be a kind of hip-hop-casual environment, see p54. terrace nightclub with great views. Django Bar/Grand Papazz so alongside the white leather sofas Whisky Mist, Icon House, Stanbic Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, This bar is owned by ‘Godfather of and bum-grinding beautiful people Heights, Corner of Independence Airport City (www.facebook.com/ Hiplife’ Reggie Rockstone (and was there’s a relaxed outside terrace and and North Liberation Link, Airport Yasminarestaurant). Open previously called Rockstone’s Office an easy-come dress code. There’s City (www.yoloxperiences.com). 11am-11pm daily. Santoku Clubs Aphrodisiac On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, this place is usually pumping. Music varies from night to night: there’s rock and ragga on Thursdays, R’n’B and bashment on Fridays and highlife/hiplife on Sundays. Saturday is ‘Old Skull Nite’. DJs are on rotation. 35 Nii Badu Street, Dzorwulu (0302 766 738, www.clubaphro.com, Facebook page).

Club 11 Formerly Cinderella’s, Club 11 has upped the stakes a little now. It’s located right next to another Accra hotspot, Django Bar (which itself was formerly Rockstone’s Office – see review below), and has a sometimes raucous, and always pretty sexy, atmosphere. Osu Avenue, off Ring Road behind Police HQ, Cantonments (0244 430624, www.facebook.com/ Club11GH). Open from 10pm

38 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Restaurants

A new initiative in Accra is Hello Food, an online delivery service for Restaurants & Cafés more than 40 restaurants across the capital. Londoners will recognise the model from Just Eat. Simply go to www.hellofood.com. gh to order. Osu Expensive Au Grand Ecuyer French Au Grand Ecuyer is primarily a French restaurant. Gallic-African owned and operated, it serves continental cuisine with a profound twist of local flavour. The seafood- laden menu has various simple recipes, prepared and presented like home-cooked meals. Try the grilled lobster or the popular grilled tilapia. Off Ring Road, near Danquah Circle, Osu (0302 768 643, 0244 153 975). Open 11am-midnight daily. Main courses GH¢25-70.

NEW Bread & Wine French See picture review p42. 13th Lane, off Cantonments Road Bread & Wine (Oxford Street), behind Venus, Osu (57 651 9799, facebook.com/pages/ BreadWine). Open 9am to 10.30pm daily. Main courses GH¢65-180.

Ghana on a plate NEW Gusto Italian Italian chef Roberto Farumi has A wealth of new openings is making Ghana West Africa’s culinary hotspot been working for more than 35 years in his homeland, and now he’s brought his expertise and good taste here’s never been a more and promises to be one of jollof rice are delicious – and you to Gusto, a new restaurant linked to exciting time to eat out in Ghana’s most high end won’t even need to wash your the excellent La Villa Boutique Hotel TAccra. The restaurant scene destinations. It’s a ‘luxury lifestyle fingers afterwards. (see p74). The menu is reassuringly across Ghana is booming, with food & beverage concept’ that A consistently popular Italian-focused (not sullied by other new restaurants, cafés and delis spans three floors, with a café and lunchtime dish is waakye, a ‘continental’ options on the menu), as opening all the time. Since the last cocktail lounge The Coco Lounge, medley of refried beans, rice, is the wine list. Speaking to Farumi, issue, new Accra restaurants such the Urban Grill restaurant and the meat, fish and spicy sauce best it’s clear the ingredients are key and as Bread & Wine and Yasmina are Whisky Mist nightclub (see p38) sampled at long-established street he spends time sourcing the best serving food that would garner with members’ bar. Each stalls such as Katawodieso. A Ghanaian produce (fish is a great plaudits in London or New York; destination has its own dedicated more upmarket place to get some option) and importing the essentials the same can also be said for The level, plus there are a few high excellent traditional food is Buka. (parmesan, olive oil). View (see p83) in Kumasi. Bread end retail spaces on the ground Street food can sometimes be 13th Lane, Osu (0302 730 3336; & Wine is a defiantly French floor, one of which will house the a calculated risk, although the [email protected]; restaurant, with (big smile) great latest branch of La Maison (see level of cleanliness is reasonably www.lavillaghana.com). Open service. It’s also home to the p54). Icon House is by the team good – vendors are always noon-3pm, 6.30-11pm daily. Main most impressive bakery set-up that set up the excellent Santoku washing their hands. What should courses GH¢30-80. we’ve seen in Accra, not least restaurant. definitely be fine is grabbing a because there’s a French pastry Elsewhere Kaya promises to be coconut – they’ll chop the top off Le Magellan Restaurant French chef just to turn out the amazing an interesting place to eat (it’s so you can drink the milk there Le Magellan is a good dining-out bread and croissants. already a great place to get a and then, then they’ll open it so choice, particularly in the evenings The View Bar & Grill in Kumasi, cocktail). But however welcome you can eat the meat. A coconut when business colleagues, friends meanwhile, is a very welcome this influx of high end places, it’s should cost GH¢1 – as a guide, and couples convene to wind down addition to a city not, ahem, overly still Ghana’s home-grown dishes avocados are also GH¢1 and at the end of a day. Service is polite known for its culinary diversity. It’s and ingredients that get our bananas are around GH¢1 for 4. and well practiced, and the menu also one of the loveliest-looking tongues dancing. Another popular lunchtime dish reflects the fact this is one of the restaurants in the country. It’s The seafood alone is fabulous you’ll see on the roadside is more upmarket options for a meal from the same stable as Santoku and plentiful. Alongside tilapia are kenkey, with fried fish and hot out in Accra. in Accra, which is, of course, barracuda, shrimp, lobster and pepper sauce. Vendors will put it Ring Road, East Accra, near Osu’s easily one of the top five eateries langoustines. Ghanaian dishes in a plastic bag for you. It costs Danquah Circle (0302 777 629). in the country. like red-red (a tasty bean stew GH¢1. A sachet of water is 10p Open noon-11pm daily. Main courses Icon House opens in late 2014 served with fried plantain) and from a street vendor. GH¢30-80.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 39 Mid-Range Le Magellan regarded Chinese restaurant attracts The Health Bar, Pippa’s Health request a thin crust. There’s also a Arlecchino Gelateria Italiana a steady flow of businesspeople and Centre, 5th Ringway Link, Ringway selection of pastas, meat and fish Ice cream wealthy young couples with its Estates, (020 605 9985). Open RECOMMENDED dishes. If it’s a bit too warm, head With the arrival of Pinocchio (see authentic cuisine and slick service. Tue-Thur 9am-7pm; 9am-10pm Sat. Yasmina inside to the air-conditioned p41), ice cream competition in Accra Alongside the usual suspects on an Main courses GH¢17-25. restaurant with a separate menu. has stiffened up – thankfully extensive menu are some interesting 11th Lane, Osu (024 442 2188, Arlecchino appears to have raised its dishes, such as Shu Maid Peking Leonardo da Vinci’s Italian facebook.com/lapiazza.ghana). Open game again. There are more than 20 dumplings and braised sea This Italian bistro specialises in 10.30am-11pm Mon-Thur, Sun; flavours that are sumptuous. cucumber with seafood hotpot. delicious pastas, also boasts a range 10.30am-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses 674/2 Cantonments Road (Oxford Oxford Street, and 5th Lane (0302 of meats and a fully stocked bar. GH¢25-45. Street), opp Shell petrol station (024 775 496). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm The menu is varied. 541 0403, www.arlecchinoicecream. daily. Main courses GH¢12-30. Credit Danquah Circle, Fourth Floor, Black Zion Thai Thai Restaurants & Cafés com). Open 6am-midnight Mon-Sat; MC, V. Caesar Building (054 283 5055). You’ll find fragrant Thai dishes 11.30am-midnight Sun. Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-11.30pm cooked by a talented Thai chef at Firefly Lounge Bar Wed-Mon. Main courses GH¢8-30. this lively little eatery. The menu Buka Ghanaian & Nigerian International offers various Far Eastern staples – Conveniently situated close to the While the dim lighting and pumping Little India Sunshine Salad Bar from spring rolls and chicken satay centre of Osu, Buka is, without tunes advertise it as a drinkers’ Indian & salads to stir fries, noodle soup and a question, one of the best lunch spots hangout, Firefly Lounge Bar also has It’s tempting to say that Little India selection of curries – and there are in the city – more often than not it a comprehensive international menu does the best salads in Accra. plenty of vegetarian options too, has the full tables to show for it. Set alongside its premium spirits. A There’s little doubt that it has the including a tasty starter of tofu on the first floor, it gives a sense of selection of tapas offers tasty and broadest selection – there are dozens triangles with sweet and sour sauce

Restaurants & Cafés escape from the throng, with lively swift fuel for barflies, as does the of different varieties in all, and and crushed peanuts. The sweet and music and wraparound wooden selection of Middle Eastern dips portions are generous. As well as its silky red curry sings with coconut trellises adding to the ambience. The (GH¢16), with crisp slices of French salads (split into seafood, vegetarian and aromatic basil leaves, while a food itself hinges largely on bread for ladling fresh hummus, and chicken categories; all around refreshing selection of tangy Thai Ghanaian and Nigerian specialties baba ghanoush and labne. The goat’s GH¢25), there’s also an assortment salads offer accompaniment. The – dishes include okra stew and eba (a cheese covered in roasted pine nuts of curries and wraps that are very praa gung in particular has a great dough ball eaten with stews). Try (GH¢20) and artichokes with popular with expats. New this year This much-talked about new venture, on the same complex as kick, with its steamed shrimp and and avoid peak lunch hours. gorgonzola sauce (GH¢20) are both is a sumptuous cake counter in an Marina Mall, is rightly recognised for the quality of its Lebanese kaffir leaves doused in lemon juice, 10th Lane, near the old American good options. air-conditioned atrium. The lemon food. There’s incredibly flavourful cuisine on offer here. The fresh onion and chilli. Embassy (0302 782 953/024 484 11th Lane, Embassy Road (0302 mousse cheesecake is good. highlights on our last visit were the mohamara (spicy walnut Mission Street, Osu Papaye Down 2464, www.thebukarestaurant.com). 777 818, http://fireflyghana.com). 11th Lane (0302 780 599). Open spread), the makanek sausages and the hummus. It’s all authentic (0243 610 108, zionthairestaurant@ Open noon-10pm Mon-Sat; Main courses GH¢20-40. Open 9am-5pm Mon-Sat. Main courses with good, balanced use of spices and top-quality ingredients, yahoo.com). Open noon-11pm noon-6pm Sun. Main courses 5pm-late Tue-Sun. GH¢25-30. Credit V. although the bill does add up after a few dishes – most are between Tue-Sat; 4pm-11pm Sun. Main GH¢20-40. GH¢20-55. One option is to go for the set menu, which for two is courses GH¢15-25. Frankie’s International NourishLab Smoothies Café GH¢160. The venue itself is a dramatic circular room with banquette NEW Burger & Relish An Oxford Street institution, This long-standing smoothie bar in seating around a stunning chandelier. Soon to open above the Budget Located in central Osu and Frankie’s passes its long opening the heart of Osu is good for restaurant is Soho (see p38) and Soho Terrace. Chicken Republic Fast food launching in November, Burger & hours drawing in a steady supply of health-conscious folk, or those who Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, Airport City (www.facebook.com/ Offering rotisserie and fried chicken Relish will be Ghana’s first gourmet snack-seeking locals. It’s ideally haven’t seen a piece of fruit for a Yasminarestaurant). Open 11am-11pm daily. Main courses GH¢40-70. pieces, as well as jollof rice and burger restaurant and cocktail bar. placed to cater for those gotta-grab- couple of days. It has a wide salads. It’s basic fried chicken, but The interior will bring vintage something moments – whether that’s selection of smoothies made with not a bad one. industrial design, urban art and with tacos, burritos and fajitas, but a mid-morning ice cream, a milk and yogurt – they take a couple from Oxford Street, Mamma Mia Noble House Chinese Chinese Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) curiosities together to create an there are also pizzas, steaks and lunchtime mixed grill or a post-bar of minutes to arrive and come thick combines quality thin-crust, Noble House is one of the longest- (0302 767 268, www.chicken- Santoku eclectic East London/Soho New York whopping burgers (GH¢35). Coming burger. In a separate section is The and full of goodness. Particularly wood-fired pizzas with an attractive serving and most popular Chinese republic.com). Open 7am-11pm style vibe. It’s a day and evening soon is continental, Japanese and Lounge, a small restaurant and bar notable is the new selection of guava setting, making it one of Accra’s restaurants in Accra. It’s affiliated Mon-Thur; 7am-midnight Fri-Sun. venue for families, and has a play Lebanese fare. serving a slightly different menu of and passion fruit options. The bar best options for Italian food, despite with the equally popular Heritage Main courses GH¢5-8. Other area and baby changing room. It will 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road continental dishes to the main eatery. also offers basic snacks: there are increased competition. The outside Indian, and both are known for their locations Spintex (0302 817 094); also be a hot spot in town for late (Oxford Street), behind Koala Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) salads in take away boxes and area has a trattoria-like feel, good service. Both also blend Ring Road (0302 233 869). night revelers with DJs and bands Supermarket, Osu (0302 763 (0302 773 567, www.frankies-ghana. quiches and pies. with rough-hewn paving, their cuisines, so you’ll playing vintage funk, soul and blues. 220054 633 3444, facebook.com/ com). Open 7am-11.30pm Behind Eye Emporium, Off terracotta tilework and find Indian dishes too B&R serves favourite classics, as Chaseelpaso). Open 11am-11.30pm Mon-Thur, Sun; 7am-midnight Fri, Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) warm, simple decor. Toptip! in Noble House’s Labone & well as signature burgers such as Mon-Thurs, Sun; 11-1am Fri-Sat. Sat. Main courses GH¢15-45. (0243 939 855). Open 8.30am- Air-conditioned Take your time telephone book-sized Smokin Joe (secret house BBQ Main courses GH¢20-35. 10pm daily. dining is also Service isn’t known for its menu. A new Cantonments marinade, cheese sauce, crispy Heritage Indian Restaurant available inside. speed in Accra. It’s best to branch has also smoked bacon and homemade Country Kitchen Ghanaian Indian Mamma Mia Italian Behind SSNIT go with plenty of time to opened in Kumasi. Expensive Critic’s pickles with rosemary salt fries), You would have thought, judging by The Ghanaians are fans of Indian Set around an agreeably rustic Trust Hospital (024 spare and without too Near Ebenezer NEW Bosphorus Turkish Seoul Burger (soy sauce glazed beef its clientele of government officials, food, and Heritage often gets pointed courtyard some five minutes’ walk 426 4155). Open much hunger! Avoid Presby Church, The newly-opened Bosphorus is a choice pattie, gochujang mayonnaise, asian the occasional tribal leader and even to as one of the best curry houses in noon-10.30pm midday too. Salem Road, Kukuhill restaurant serving traditional coleslaw and shichimi seasoned the Reverend Jesse Jackson (whose the capital. The atmosphere inside is Mamma Mia Tue-Sun. Main courses (0302 785 151, 0243 Turkish food along with a few nods Santoku. Fabulous tempura vegetables) and Thai picture in the restaurant hangs in elegant and quiet, with some GH¢30-60. 439035). Open noon- to international cuisines. Things Nobu-styled food and Chicken Burger (ginger, coriander & pride of place) that Country Kitchen fabulously detailed Indian carvings 3pm, 7-11.30pm daily. Main start early in the day with the 1 good vibes. See p45. chilli with homemade sweet chilli is an upmarket joint. The main on display. The food is equally Monsoon International courses from GH¢15. ‘Pasha’ breakfast, which, as any sauce and lime mayo). The bar appeal, however, is hearty home pleasing, being authentic and spicy. Three eateries in one, all of which visitor to Istanbul knows well, is an Bread & Wine. Top-end focuses on signature cocktails, cooking that remains true to Service is attentive, but relaxed. are likely to leave you happily NEW La Piazza & Pinocchio expansive affair with a variety of French cuisine and specialising in rums and there’s a Ghanaian classics. The atmosphere Off Salem Road, near Papaye (0243 replenished. Monsoon’s centrepiece Italian cheeses, olives, honey, sausage, fries, 2 delicatessen . See p42. broad range of beers, as well as is as relaxed as the staff are, but the 255 705, 0302 785 252). Open from is its bar, a reasonably plush spot One of the newest spots in Osu is La salad and more (GH¢35). The menu milkshakes and floats. food is freshly cooked – fufu, banku 6pm daily. Main courses GH¢9-20. that wouldn’t look out of place in Piazza and Pinocchio, a pleasant then runs through sandwiches, pitas Yasmina. The most 14th Lane, and Dadebu Road, Osu and jollof rice all come with a choice any city, and its main à la carte complex that encompasses an ice and kebabs and meat dishes. There flavourful Lebanese food (0544 347 538, www. of chicken, beef, mutton or fish, Island Spice Jamaican selection offers a good choice of cream parlour, an outdoor seating are pastas and other international 3 in the city. See p45. burgerandrelish.com, facebook.com/ usually ‘red fish’. The larger grilled Is there any better dish than a true seafood and meat options. On the area for pizzas and an inside dishes, but it’s the authentic Turkish burgerandrelish). Open noon-11pm tilapia comes with banku. Jamaican jerk chicken? Island Spice, outside terrace, meanwhile, there’s restaurant. The parlour has plenty cuisine you’ll enjoy the most. The Buka. This is the place for Tue-Wed; noon-2am Thur-Sat; 2nd Ringway, Roberto Road (0302 part of the same complex as Pippa’s access to two smaller eateries – a of different ice cream flavours – we restaurant itself has a large covered traditional African food. noon-10pm Sun. Main courses 229 107). Open 7.30am-9.30pm Health Centre, sells tangy jerk sushi parlour and a teppanyaki can vouch for the double chocolate patio area, as well as two floors of 4 See p40. GH¢35-70. daily. Main courses GH¢9-25. chicken and other Jamaican classics restaurant. – but it’s also a nice place to sit with indoor seating. Note that at the time such as curried goat and beef 41 Cantonments Road (Oxford a coffee and check your emails. The of going to press it didn’t serve Nicolino’s. Great pizza Chase El Paso Dynasty Restaurant Chinese patties, as well as a good selection of Street), above Osu Food Court (0302 outdoor courtyard is a lovely little alcohol. Shisha pipes are available al fresco at the Alliance Chase El Paso serves pretty much For almost 25 years, Dynasty has veggie food. Eat in (ping the bell for 782 307). Open 6pm-late Mon-Sat. space, with a full view of the for a post-meal smoke. 5 Francaise. See p48. what you’d expect from a Tex-Mex dominated Osu’s fancier eating service!) in the tiny courtyard, or opt Main courses (from á la carte menu) wood-fired oven that produces a No 127, sector 18, Labone. Call 0200 style restaurant outside of Mexico, scene. This upmarket and highly for take-away or delivery. GH¢16-35. range of topping-laden pizzas – 300 123/727 for details.

40 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 41 Captain Hook’s Restaurant Danquah Circle, is a handy stop-off Seafood WHAT’S ON THE MENU for families. For the children there’s a RECOMMENDED Located in Cantonments near the bouncy castle and expansive games Bread & Wine Goethe-Institut, Accra stalwart Navigating the Ghanaian food room alongside other activities that Captain Hook’s is a popular, will keep most ages entertained. upmarket seafood restaurant. The Parents, meanwhile, can hide in a Bread & Wine Bakery & Delicatessen decor is inevitably nautically The basics Gari foto A cassava and egg restaurant serving Ghanaian dishes, This bakery is a serious operation. There was already a queue at the themed, but tastefully done. Aduane Food dish mixed with other ingredients fried chicken and other items. counter when we last visited, and that was during the soft opening. 4 Kakramandu Street, Cantonments Akawadu Banana Groundnut soup Spicy stew There’s a juice bar and coffee shop. All the equipment and grain is imported from France (as is the (0302 762 228). Main courses Amadaa Fried plantain with meat or fish 27 Orphan Crescent, North Labone pastry chef), and all the bread and patisserie is freshly baked each GH¢60-80. Open 11.30am-2.30pm, Ampesi Plantain and yam Jollof rice Spicy rice with meat (0302 763525). Open call for details. day. The croissants are a highlight, obviously, but the cakes are 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Credit Banku Corndough or chicken Restaurants & Cafés fabulous too. The breads on offer include classic French baguettes, AmEx, MC, V. Bodie Plantain Kelewele Spicy fried plantain D-Café Café as well as brioche, walnut and raisin bread and whatever else takes Borodo/Panu Bread Kenkey Steamed fermented The DeliFrance chain is now called the chef’s fancy. You’ll also find quiches and pizzas. NEW Kaya Enam Meat cornflour balls D-Café and has branches across the Over in the deli, the city’s most impressive selection of cheeses Kaya is a fascinating proposition Gari Cassava dried or grated Klako Deep-fried plantain dough city in Marina Mall, Accra Mall and and cold cuts can be bought by the gram – or layered in one of the that includes a spa and detox, Momone Sun-dried fish Kokonte Cassava dish now Labone, on which outlet this aforementioned baguettes for a sandwich. Outside, meanwhile, cocktail bar, grill, restaurant and Nsuomnam Fish Kontomire Cocoyam leaves review is based. D-Café’s offering there’s a relaxing seating area in the gardens, overlooking the design gallery. It is set in a beautiful Ode Yam Kyinkyinga Beef with vegetable was actually quite rare in Accra colonial house and the pool – just the spot to eat your purchase or colonial building and a large, lush sauce when it opened a few years back: drink a perfectly-pulled espresso. tropical garden. There are two Breakfast & snacks Omo tuo Mashed rice balls with namely good coffee, pastries and 13th Lane, off Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), behind Venus, dining options, plus a terrace snack Boflot Doughnut stew or soup lunch-time sandwiches. The baked Osu ( 57 651 9799, facebook.com/pages/BreadWine). Open 9am bar (see p36). The Lobster & Ekwei bemi Boiled sweet corn Palava sauce Spinach or leaf goods have always been of a decent to 10.30pm daily. Champagne Grill (launched in kernels sauce quality and freshly made. Time has October) will be in a newly- Koko Corn or millet porridge with Red red Spicy bean stew also been spent on training the staff refurbished summer hut. Inside the milk or sugar Shito Hot pepper sauce, to make a good coffee. Panini or house, there will be a fine dining Nuhuu Cocoyam porridge sometimes with prawn or fish baguette sandwiches include salmon restaurant and will serve a delicate Rice water Rice pudding Suya Spicy kebab or bresaola, and the Labone branch menu based on organic delicacies, Tatale Pounded and fried also makes pizzas, pasta, salads, fresh seafood, depending on Dishes plantain wraps and crepes. There’s a nice seasonal and local produce Abenkwain Palm nut soup Waakye Rice and red beans, seating area outside and an availability. During the day, lunch Fufu Pounded yam, cassava or often with meat, fish and spicy air-conditioned bar inside. or afternoon tea is served and plantain sauce Next to Metro TV, North Labone draws heavily on an organic garden (0544 338 084). Open for vegetables, herbs and spices. 6.30am-8pm daily. There’s also a wellbeing centre P de Rothschild bottles, along with a There’s now a teppanyaki bar that can provide healthy and fairly reasonable selection of wines indoors. It also has a pleasant Labone Coffee Shop Café drink food options. at more affordable prices. Also outdoor patio and an indoor Stick around long enough and you 1-10 Link Road, Cantonments, near updated in the refurbishment are the restaurant. The food in the café area become a landmark in Ghana. Since US Embassay (0540 109 501). outdoor seating areas (with starts from 7am with breakfast, and opening in 1995, Labone Coffee Shop barbecue) and two new private it’s open until late serving salads, has been the point from which other Le Must French dining rooms. fajitas, all manner of chicken dishes Labone shops and restaurants base For 20 years, Le Must has been a 28 Orphan Crescent, (0302 785 and Lebanese platters. their directions. Little changes here force among Accra’s upmarket 731, www.lemust-france.com). Main Olooti Lane, off Josiah Tongogari – it’s a relaxed place, half indoors eateries, with diners including courses GH¢30-65. Open noon-3pm, Road, opp Labone Coffee Shop (0302 and half out (the terrace overlooks a Jacques Chirac, Will Smith and 6pm-11pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, 778 477, www.chasefastfoods.com). car park). It’s a common meeting Epicureans rejoice! Bread & Wine is open. Great French food, a wine Stevie Wonder. For a while it was MC, V. Open 9.30am-12.30am Mon-Thur, point for a quick beer and a snack cellar, a beautiful location, real croissants made by a French pastry losing out to some of the newer Sun; 7am-2.30am Fri, Sat. Lounge before moving to more upmarket chef – what’s not to like? This is a serious set-up. The bakery alone high-end restaurants, but its recent Mid-Range noon-11.30pm Mon-Thur, Sun; establishments. will no doubt be marked out as the best in Ghana – pop in for a real refurbishment should put it back Chase International noon-12.30pm Fri, Sat. Main Olooti Lane, off Josiah Tongogari Parisian baguette, a slice of cake and a good coffee. And by the firmly on the business/diplomatic Popular Labone destination Chase courses GH¢12-25. Road (0302 761 491). Open time this guide is out the deli will be open too, offering outdoor patio circuit. The food remains as good as recently changed its Japanese 9am-11pm Mon-Sat; seating among the greenery and flowers. Elsewhere in this quiet Osu it ever was, with its signature dish, restaurant into a sports bar and Churcheese International 9am-11pm Sun. setting, a fabulously appointed dining room sits inside a colonial the Lobster Thermidor, still a fixture. lounge with banquette seating, a This restaurant and play place, by building and shows real attention to detail – the tables and light It’s also the place to find your Baron large projector and a stack of TVs. the Morning Star School off the Le Tandem Restaurant French fittings are from an old French railway station bistro, a cooler keeps It’s always a good sign when the wines at the perfect temperature and the bar mixes great restaurant staff look upbeat and classic cocktails. Bread & Wine is even open for breakfast. Thought happy. Le Tandem, with its amiable you couldn’t get a good eggs benny in Ghana? Think again! service and slightly hidden-away Alongside the classic and salmon versions of Eggs Benedict, there’s East Cantonments location, seems to a full English, various cereals and superb buttermilk pancakes. be a popular choice for politicians, The all-day menu (served between 9am-5pm) has salads and diplomats and similarly high-profile sandwiches, as well as steak frites, fish and chips and a very good diners. The restaurant, with its club sandwich. But it’s the à la carte menu where it excels: entreés warm red interiors, sits at the upper include stuffed aubergine with smoked salmon (GH¢78) and scallops end of the scale in terms of its with hazenuts, mashed carrots with orange and cumin (GH¢125), French-influenced menu. Imported while seafood options range from grouper spiced with tarragon and options include beef with marrow baby onions (GH¢90) to golden-crusted cassava fillet with coconut and sautéed potatoes, confit of duck butter (GH¢95). The meaty mains offer delights such as magret de and veal escalope. canard with curry plantain gnocchi (GH¢95) and French filet with 6 Mankralo Street, East peppercorns and potato gratin (GH¢215). There are vegetarian Cantonments (0302 762 959). Main options too. And as you’d expect from having a well-regarded French courses GH¢20-40. Open noon-2pm, pastry chef in the kitchen (and bakery, see above), the ever-changing 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. dessert menu is amazing. Service is impeccable. It’s not cheap, but Bread & Wine is easily among the best eateries in Ghana. Oh, and ask Maquis Tante Marie African to see the chilled wine cellar – it’s one impressive room (there are There are three branches of Maquis plans for cheese and wine tastings there in the future). Tante Marie. There’s one in Accra 13th Lane, off Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), behind Venus, Mall and another fast-food-style Osu ( 57 651 9799, facebook.com/pages/BreadWine). Open 9am place in Marina Mall, although the to 10.30pm daily. Main courses GH¢65-180. Bosphorus original Labone branch is, by some distance, the most atmospheric. All

42 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 43 the seating is open-sided and the D-Café array of pastas and fresh seafood. It Santoku Restaurant & Bar tasteful bamboo furniture and bright also offers homemade ice cream and Dzorwulu yellow tablecloths give the place an freshly baked bread and rolls. exotic vibe. The menu is definitively Farrar Avenue, and Nsawam Road Choco’Pain Café African, with authentic dishes (0302 232 988). Open 10am-10pm Choco’Pain is a lovely little café with predominantly from Ghana and Côte Mon-Sat. Main courses GH¢20-35. pastries, sandwiches and sundaes. d’Ivoire. These include tilapia and All its cakes are freshly baked on the banku, nyama choma (grilled, spiced Pataase International premises every day – no wonder the meat, usually mutton) and fishyassa Set in a multilevel open courtyard, past few years have seen people (fish grilled in a tangy lemon the Paloma Hotel’s restaurant is a travelling fair distances to pick up marinade). pleasant place for an early evening their breakfast goods. It serves 5th Norla Link near Metro TV meal once the sun has gone down, crêpes and waffles, alongside more Restaurants & Cafés (0302 778 914, www. although that said, a thatched roof substantial lunchtime paninis. maquistantemarie.com). Open and palm trees offer shade during Osu Badu Street (020 9130 655, 11.30am-11pm daily. Main courses the day. The menu includes facebook.com/pages/CHOCOPAIN/). GH¢25-40. Other location Accra Ghanaian dishes such as jollof rice Open 6am-9pm Mon-Sat; 7am-7pm Mall (0224 322 5181). and red red alongside Lebanese Sun. Other location Melcom Plus cuisine, kebabs and chicken and Complex, 2nd Palace Link Road, off Melting Moments Café chips, with large pizza to share. Dadeban Road, North Industrial A pleasant café in Labone, Melting Paloma Hotel, 40 Ring Road (0302 Area (020 913 0655). Moments has excellent pastries, 228 700, www.palomahotel.com). bread and coffee. Although it’s an Open 6.30am-10.30pm daily. Main

Restaurants & Cafés established place for a long brunch, courses GH¢8-20. Airport there’s a good selection of light jollof rice, although the speciality uninitiated, the water bowls and lunches and snacks throughout the here is waakye. Walk in and take a liquid are to wash your hands after NEW Tam-Tam African Residential day. More conventional menu items seat if there’s room, or order in the digging in with your fingers. This is another new place in the include chicken and chips and kiosk from one of the waitresses Ring Road, next to Bus Stop Afrikiko complex, following last Expensive jollof rice. There are also and see what arrives. The Restaurant and Bar (0302 220 930). year’s addition of Toros Tapas Bar. NEW Coco Lounge at sandwiches, wraps, paninis, restaurant has been at this location Main course GH¢10-30. Open It’s a wholeheartedly African Icon House fajitas and salads. for a quarter of a century and is 8am-9pm daily. experience, with a menu broken The Coco Lounge opens in Icon Number 78/5 1st Norla Street, well known across the city. down into different regional cuisines, House, a new three-storey building Labone (0302 770 834). Open Labone Junction (0244 365 868). Khana Khazana Indian including Nigerian and Senegalese with some of Ghana’s most high end Restaurant from 6.30pm to 9.45pm tenderloin and Atlantic lobster. Escapade Café/Bistro 7am-9pm Mon-Sat. Open from 7am daily. Main courses In keeping with Accra’s penchant for dishes and a good range of restaurants, retail spaces and the Monday to Wednesday; 6.30pm to There are also regular themed International GH¢3-10. hiding away great eateries and bars, Ghanaian classics. Whisky Mist’s nightclub (see p38) all 10.45pm Thurs to Sat. Main courses nights, such as the Saturday Texas. All the food on the menu at this new NEW Shakes-N-Flavours Khana Khazana is literally sat 98 Independence Avenue (0244 613 under one roof and launching in GH¢25-100. Credit MC, V. Food can also be eaten around the café and bistro is prepared by the This new little smoothie and behind a petrol station. Given its 677). Open 11m-10pm daily. Main autumn 2014.The ground floor is the pleasant pool outside. It’s reasonably chef using fresh local ingredients. milkshake bar is a very welcome Adabraka, location, what you find is courses GH¢20-40. setting for The Coco Lounge, a NEW Urban Grill at Icon House priced for a hotel restaurant, with On Wednesdays and Thursdays place to be on a hot day. Ice-cool air surprisingly charming. A thatched café-style environment and cocktail Urban Grill will open in Icon House, burgers and pasta around GH¢30. there’s a mid-week special menu con, delicious drinks and wifi all Ridge & dining area overlooked by trees Thai Island Thai lounge-bar, open for breakfast, a new three-storey building with Golden Tulip Hotel, Liberation Road, offered alongside the à la carte help. The fresh ingredients shine shades tables clad in green-and- This cosy restaurant is at the far end throughout the day and into the restaurants, cafe lounge, and club Airport (0302 213 161, www. choice. Delivery also available. through and there are some nice Asylum white tablecloths, while in the of the Afrikiko Complex, offering a night for relaxed dining, coffee and (see p38) and some retail. It’s the goldentulipaccra.com). Open Roman Ridge Shopping Arcade combinations – we can vouch for the adjacent open-fronted kitchen hut garden bar and restaurant with cakes, cocktails, wine and draught flagship restaurant at Icon House 6.30am-10pm daily. Main courses (0244 262 146). Open 7-11.30am, Banberry, a banana, nutmeg, Mid-Range the Indian owners sizzle up an outdoor seating. Inside, however, it’s beers. The double-volume space and from the team that brought you GH¢21-36. noon-3pm, 6-10pm. pineapple and strawberry blend. Afrikiko Ghanaian & pizza abundance of South and North another world. Lit only by lights includes dramatic features such as a Santoku, so promises to have unique There are also a few snacks such as This is a hard place to define. It Indian cuisine. within bamboo dividers, this long bar and hanging art displays dishes and impeccable service. NEW ci gusta Holiday Inn Accra Airport burgers, sandwiches and, of course, shares premises with the Thai Behind the ENGEN filling station, intimate restaurant is calm, cool and (all by award winning architects Urban Grill has renowned New York The ci gusta franchise that The Holiday Inn’s location, right by chicken and rice. Island, Café dez Amis and Toros Kojo Thompson Road (0275834282, quiet. Duck is the most expensive Graven Images), and the ground chef Andrew DiCataldo who specialises in frozen yogurt, ice the airport, makes it a key contender Josiah Tongogari Road, Labone Tapas Bar, but is nonetheless www.khanakhazanaghana. item on the menu, but there’s a wide floor area also offers inspirational designed the menu and he has fused cream, smoothies, coffee, soup and for a quick lunch or a business (0302 797 541, facebook.com/ mostly based in its own pleasant getafricaonline.com). Open range of other meats, and tofu. The shopping at La Maison, an interior on trend Nuevo Latino cuisine with pizza, has opened in Accra. It’s a meeting – you’re more or less ShakesnFlavors). Open 10am-10pm garden (and despite being next to a 9am-10pm Mon-Sun. Main courses food is of high quality and lifestyle boutique (see p54). African flavours. The wine list has lovely little spot, air conditioned and guaranteed decent service. There are Mon-Sat; 1-10pm Sun. busy road, it does seem pretty GH¢6-12. justifiably popular. The Coco Lounge, Icon House, been devised by Brazilian Master of relaxed inside. There’s also an three eating options at the hotel: La tranquil). There’s an outdoor bar Afrikiko Leisure Complex, Liberation Stanbic Heights, Independence, Wine Dirceau Vianna Jr. outdoor seating area. Cabana Pool Bar & Restaurant, the Zanzibar International that also serves barbecued Café Dez Amis Café Road (0244 613 677). Open North Liberation Link, Airport City Urban Grill, Icon House, Stanbic Patrice Lumumba Road, Koala Safari Lounge Bar and the Wiase Located in the residential chicken, although most Everything at Café Dez Amis is noon-10pm Mon-Sat. Main courses (www.yoloxperiences.com). Heights, Independence, North Shpping Centre, Airport Residential Restaurant. The pool bar is a decent area of Labone, people come for the prepared from high-quality GH¢22-45. Liberation Link, Airport City (www. (054 010 1333, www.cigusta.com). spot with a menu of snacks (think Zanzibar is a small Top Tip! wood-fired pizzas. ingredients. Reasonable prices and a Santoku Restaurant & Bar yoloxperiences.com). Open 11am-8pm. pizza and chicken wings) but it’s the restaurant that Credit cards On weekend central location make it a popular Toros Tapas Bar Spanish Japanese fish specials that are the best bet specialises in dishes Although many places evenings there’s choice with the embassies, and now The tapas revolution has finally hit Launched in 2012, Santoku is still NEW Yasmina D-Café Café – on Friday nights it gets busy. The from the region advertise they take credit frequent live the president has moved into Accra, and with customary Latin leading the way for fine dining in Lebanese Top TIP! The D-Café is the new Safari Bar, as well as guaranteeing a after which it takes cards, it’s also wise to music, but there Flagstaff House soon business style. This is a lovely if unsubtle Ghana, with a blend of well-executed See picture review, Handy eating name for the recently sandwich in five minutes, also offers its name (although check the machine is are often tunes should rocket. The service is casual space (it’s all red and black with and inventive dishes, excellent p41. In some traditional rebadged enticing dishes such as grilled there’s also an working. It’s usually blasting out at and friendly. It’s a good place for a pictures of bulls on the wall) that service and well-designed Marina Mall, restaurants the dish is DeliFrance calamari and Lobster Newburg. The incongruous mix of better to go with any time. brunch in the breeze, a long lunch lends itself to a jovial atmosphere. surroundings by interior architect Airport Bypass eaten with the hands. A franchise. There are Wiase Restaurant, meanwhile, puts India, French and Thai cash. Liberation Road (0302 with friends, a sunset supper or a There’s a wide range of dishes Hubert de Givenchy. The team from Road, Airport City bowl and soap will be branches across on an impressive buffet every dishes). It’s a good 229 997). Open work meeting with colleagues. There costing between GH¢8-12, plus larger Nobu London helped open Santoku (www.facebook.com/ provided with the Accra, including in breakfast, lunch and dinner time, but location for a relaxing meal in 11am-9pm Mon-Thur, Sun; is often live music. raciones from GH¢14, up to GH¢32 and executive chef Rafael Serrano Yasminarestaurant). meal. the Marina Mall. Each it’s the Sunday lunch spread that pleasant surroundings. There’s a 11am-midnight Fri, Sat. Main 98 Independence Avenue (0302 782 for Iberian pork. Pile them up and (Coya London and Nobu), head-chef Open 11am-11pm daily. is slightly different. holds the most appeal, treating leafy outdoor area. courses GH¢8-20. 937, [email protected], away you go. The menu is classic Angel Perez (Nobu London), all Main courses GH¢40-70. This is a lovely little place diners to a wide range of well- Dade Street (0244 890 990). Open Facebook page). Open 6.30am-10pm tapas: croquetas, meatballs, chorizo recently joined. The menu offers a for a coffee, with some cooked traditional dishes. 11am-3pm, 5pm-11.30pm daily. Asanka Restaurant Ghanaian Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. in red wine, patatas bravas, octopus contemporary Japanese sharing mid-range excellent pastries, although crunchy Plot 19 & 20 Airport City (0302 740 Main courses GH¢25-40. This small restaurant has an salad, calamares, prawns in chili and concept, with signature dishes Branche International baguettes and bulging paninis are 930, www.holidayinn.com). Main upmarket local feel to it. Under low Orangery Crêpes and Salad garlic. There’s also paella, including including Black Cod den Miso plus Branche, at the Golden Tulip hotel, the staples at this very European of courses GH¢30-50. Budget bamboo ceilings, and with African Bar International an authentic version (with chicken). extensive sushi and sashimi is the kind of chic, understated hotel cafés. Baguette fillings include the Katawodieso Ghanaian motifs painted on the walls, the Situated on Farrar Avenue, one of It also hosts occasional live selections. It also serves superb restaurant (or bar, lounge, call it likes of bresaola, parmesan and Il Cavaliere Pazzo Italian More of a street stall than a place has a relaxed family the oldest and most charming parts performances of flamenco and cocktails. There’s a private dining what you will) that wouldn’t feel out olive oil. There are also salads and Set in one of the most prestigious restaurant, Katawodieso is atmosphere, and while the small of Accra, the Orangery offers Spanish music. room that seats 18. of place in any global five-star pizzas. These cafés provide little spots in the city, overlooking the semi-legendary in Accra. It serves menu is 100 per cent Ghanaian it’s excellent fresh salads and freshly Afrikiko Leisure Complex, Liberation Ground Floor, Azure, Villagio Vista, property. There’s a full choice of air-con-fresh pockets of calm across Polo Club’s field, Il Cavaliere Pazzo excellent traditional Ghanaian food also one of the most authentic in made soups including asparagus, Road (020 094667, 024 288 0163, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange (0544 Ghanaian dishes, as well as a large the city. Next door to this branch is rises to the occasion. It’s one of the – and the queues at lunchtime attest Accra. The banku and tilapia are pumpkin and mushroom. It’s well www.torotapas.com). Open 311 511, www.santoku-restaurant. international buffet, and from 6pm the D-Café Deli (see p53). most impressive buildings in its success. Within a courtyard are particularly good here, but almost all known for a wide variety of sweet noon-11pm daily. Main courses com). Bar open 5pm-1am daily; the à la carte selection includes the Volta Street (302 770 233). Open Accra, making effective use of bubbling pots of banku, fufu and dishes are a decent bet. For the and savoury crêpes and an excellent GH¢16-32. Lounge open 5pm-midnight; likes of French onion soup, beef 7am-8pm Mon-Sun. wood both on the interior and

44 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 45 ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE Two cities, Holiday Inn, Accra two great hotels The Ultra Modern Best Western Plus Atlantic Hotel has opened in Takoradi to great reviews, while the Holiday Inn in Accra continues to be one of the best foodie destinations Best Western Plus Atlantic Hotel There are six conference and event suites, for all sizes of conference or banqueting. They are highly customizable, and fully equipped with the latest technological oliday Inn Accra is one of the very equipment. There is also a wide range of best accommodation options business services. HGhana has to offer the discerning visitor. Here’s six reasons why the Holiday It is, however, the food that is one of the Inn is a great hotel: main draws. Head Chef Leslie Quarmyne has added his trademark flavours to the 1. The location. Ocean View restaurant and the Canoe This is unbeatable – it sits within minutes Bar and Restaurant located by the three of the airport, a swiftly developing area swimming pools. He has come from the that is, whisper it, the centre of both highly-acclaimed Holiday Inn in Accra. business and pleasure in Accra. All of the dishes in from the wide-ranging buffet and a la carte menu are packed 2. The rooms. These are superb – a sizable cut with flavour, whether it is the traditional above Accra’s usual offering. They’re African flavours of Okro Soup or the clean, spacious and fitted with all the international perfection of the steak. And technological advances you’d expect from the specials board is where the chef really This is especially true of the Sunday lunch wait until you get to dessert! a five-star hotel – there’s a room for your has fun. Picking the fish hooked from the offering, where you’ll find a huge array bodyguard if you take the presidential Atlantic each morning, depending on what of Ghanaian and West African dishes. If Then it’s time to relax in the bar with a suite, you know, just in case. looks good. On Friday nights, the Pool Bar you want to try some traditional dishes cold beer, or perhaps by the pool with an is buzzing – come early to get a seat. – and you should – this is the place to do expertly made cocktail. 3. The service. it. May we suggest the taste bud-popping Good service, as regular visitors will know, 5. The Safari Lounge Bar. the Spicy Kelewele and the Red Red. The Best Western Plus Atlantic Hotel is is hard to come by in Accra, but at the Take speedy service, combine it with the newest and best equipped hotel in the Holiday Inn, you can expect it to match soccer on the TV, live but unobtrusive Western Region. he Gulf of Guinea is a vast you appear again through the reception American standards, with an added dose music from the grand piano of an evening impressive sight. It is a gulf of area and bar. Before you is Ghana’s best of African charm and a big smile. The staff and a top-notch food selection, and you riches, full of delectable fish and full pool area. This multi-level complex has here are quick, friendly and discerning. get a busy bar and the perfect place to T That draft beer will arrive quickly, and hold a meeting. What of the menu? Well, of oil, especially off the coast of Takoradi, incredibly inviting pools, beautiful flower in the western region of Ghana. The town, gardens, its own bar, restaurant and grill, your meal will be there in a shot – they there’s Grilled Mini Calamari, Oak Smoked which jointly with its ‘twin’ Sekondi’, has and simply flawless views across the also promise a sandwich in five minutes Salmon, or Tiger Prawns in garlic, olive oil, become the third biggest city in Ghana. pristine Takoradi Golf Club, the white in the Safari Bar if you need something lemon juice and caper butter. It’s an exciting place to be right now. And beaches and then the Atlantic. quick. But chances are you’ll want to now, on the coast, overlooking the Gulf, is linger over the food. 6. Wiase Restaurant. an astonishing five-star residence; the Best Beyond the pool are luxury chalets Everyone loves a buffet, but there’s Western Plus Atlantic Hotel. and family bungalows – a true escape. 4. La Cabana Pool Bar. nothing quite like this at your usual In the main hotel, five-star rooms – or La Cabana Pool Bar & Restaurant is by the Holiday Inn. 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46 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 47 Restaurants & Cafés Restaurant Ghanaian GH¢25-40. By-Pass Road. Maincourses Mall,Airport Opposite Marina you thenovelty. dopayfor cheapest– at around GH¢35amainit’s notthe stew, nutstew but andthelike, palm tilapia, garden egg Ghanaian: grilled red-eye to Heathrow. Themenuis beingonthe wouldn’t confuseitfor remarkably –you spacious certainly airline and feels using real seats take-off. It’s tastefully done been andget readyClimb thesteps for and acompleteoverhaul inside. branding) ClubBeer (ingreen paint given of now new been abrand lick MarinaMall.It’sderelict opposite DC-10 aeroplane thatlongstood project: it’srestaurant setinsidea There’s nomissingthisremarkable N Main courses GH¢20-45. 7.30pm-11.30pmSat. Mon-Fri; noon-2.30 and7.30pm-11.30pm Woolworths (0302772408).Open 215 Liberation Road, opp onion soupaugratin. to awonderfully andsticky thick from acrispycuisine, Nicoisesalad the mainstay French isclassic –but with harissaandmintyoghurt asgrouper –dishessuch measure Africanflavours good for North Itoffersdecade. asmatteringof thana more diners for discerning dishes have cateringtoAccra’s been La Chaumiere’s sophisticatedFrench La ChaumiereFrench&African 7.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. www.cuppacappuccino.com). Open ResidentialAirport (0302953989, PartriceLumumba, Street, Off Volta6 3rd Ringway, Close off a healthyapproach totheirlunch. thosewhoprefera favoured for spot menu.Thesaladsmake it breakfast salads,someburgers anda lots of dishes, also containsriceandchicken themenu version. from these, Apart baconandavocado cheese, chicken, popular, thecalorific especially Itssandwiches are brunches. This caféserves and lightlunches Café Josie’s CuppaCappuccino Mon-Sat. Maincourses GH¢50-80. Sun. Lounge open3.30-7pm 7.30-11.30 Mon-Sat; page). Open12.30-3.30pm, (0302823131,FacebookAirport Accra PoloClub, Liberation Road, andricotta. spinach andraviolirisottos, gnocchi with unswervingly Italian,withgenuine understated. Itsmenuis exterior. It’s alsorefreshingly 48 staff,courteous it’s but thehead professional too, withefficient and the matter. Thesetupis –help tastycrust mention asuper oven atNicolino’sburning –notto recently.its game Thewood- from hasupped MammaMia,which probably, competition despite stiff The bestpizzaintown? Quite Nicolino’s Italian EW EW Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 OutAccrafor visitors Time La TanteDC-10 East Legon Main courses GH¢10-30. 762 791).Openfrom 6pmdaily. (0302762792,0302 Development opp Centre for Democratic Street, House No3,NorteiAbadio thefreshest ingredients. for The affable markets owner scours canbedifficulttolocate. Restaurant Michelangelo’sand Dzorwulu, Residential neighbourhood Airport home-like environment the between Situated inaconverted personal Osteria MichelangeloItalian GH¢30-50. noon-10.30pm Sun.Maincourses Open 7am-10.30pmMon-Fri; Opeibia House(0244629656). ResidentialAirport Area behind Francaise, Liberation Alliance Link, dishes too. pasta There’s rangeof anexpanded favourites. ribsareand sticky our fresh lobster food–thesuper grilled andthemenu, is the restaurant, wood. Arecent additionto pieces of rustic (GH¢32) arrive onartfully Toscana sausage withspicy asthe (see p62).Pizzassuch theAllianceFrancaise of grounds inthepleasant spot open-sided better location–it’s inabreezy, in Rome. Nicolino’s couldn’thave a Douglas Santi chef Michelin-starred previous wasundertwo posting eminence–his the placereal whobrings Dettori Humberto chef particularly well done. wellparticularly done. Thepizzasherebeaches. are also fromdishes pretty straight the much fresh fishandshellfish selection of withastrong forte, is aparticular inthecity.best restaurants Seafood the asit’sfind –unfortunate, oneof The Venue placeto isn’ttheeasiest The VenueInternational Sat;10am-1amSun. Fri, 10am-3am 10am- 1amMon-Thu; ancsquare.com, Facebook page). Open 14 Jungle Road (054708921,www. asandwich. enjoy or pizza, pasta it’s name, cheesy atastefulplaceto Square Anddespitethe complex. intheA&C courtyard pleasant This isaqualitycafé/barin Luscious Temptation Mid-Range Spin Break Spintex Road Accra Mall& and Sun.Maincourses GH¢15-35. noon-11pmSat 5pm-11pm Mon-Fri; [email protected]). Open 3323425, 0302505111, bridge, housenumber3(024 Adjiringanor Road, leftafterfirst ai rnhadlcstevb f thevibeof andlacks Marie branch This isthesecond MaquisTante Maquis TanteMarie African 000, www.yoloxperiences.com). Coca ColaRoundabout (0540888 Yard Bird, 21Spintex Road, near andingredients. quality service imagine itwillalsohave thesame developers asSantokusowe’d isfrom thesame restaurant branches. This two the first of played onthejuke box. Thiswillbe theirfavouriteDJ apptohear track theSecret text or Memories Wall of booth tohave placedonthe pictures theYard Bird photo and make useof table football can enjoy of games milkshakes. Inafuntwist,guests lemonade toalcoholicMoonshine from ranging fresh cocktails plushouse Creole black-eyed peas, crispyand friedokra cornbread, rice, asspicy bysidessuch accompanied Bird’s very own spiceshake, friedandblendedwithYardchicken, August 2014).Themenuwillfeature in (justopened concept restaurant within afunkyenvironment inanew diner foodwithGhanaianspice Yard Bird mixesAmerican-style N GH¢25-42. Credit V. Sat.Maincourses 10am-2am Fri, 10am-midnight Sun-Thur; www.rhapsodys.co.za). Open Road (0244337825, Shops 66-68,Accra Mall,Spintex platters andthelike. snack salads,burgers, steaks, range of withamenuofferingdining area a bar.international There’s aseparate amodern become thehallmarks of has thestylised thathave decor Rhapsody’s chain, African/Lebanese anestablished South of As part Rhapsody’s International Expensiv Mid-Range EW EW Yard BirdAmerican Main courses GH¢20-52. co.za). Open 7.30am-10.30pmdaily. (0302 772520,www.legacyhotels. No 1LaBypass, Labadi Beach Hotel barbythepool. and aniceopen There’s abuffet anddinner atlunch dining venues are stillreliably good. smooth service. for reputation The Accra’s witha nicestproperties, The Labadi Hotelisoneof Beach International Labadi BeachHotel daily. Maincourses GH¢20-40. gbhghana.net). Open12.30pm-late Labadi Beach (0245353610,www. stew). (bean much-lovedthe simplebut red red inthehotel–try the bestplacetoeat Ghanaian flavours.buffet Its easily is tosamplesomedistinctivespot tables with beachside isawinning this attractive restaurant thatched Royal Hotel’s expansive grounds, LaPalm of Situated attheback Open 7am-10pmdaily. 2226, www.facebook.com/spinbreak). next toCompuGhana(054922 Spintex Road, before ManetJunction, there too. andaddabar area seating outdoor There are the planstoextend andpizza. andpasta barbecued meat tacos andquesadillas,aswell as staples there peppers, are jalapeño AlongsidetheStateside the vibe. addto kitchen andtheopen the door white décor, by motorbike theclassic juicy, hotdogs. juicy Thered and milkshakestasty burgers, and thick an Americandiner-style big feel: Road aimingfor iswholeheartedly This new jointalongtheSpintex N (0224 3225181). 1,Labone Link nearDDBMedia 5thNorla GH¢25-40. Otherlocation 11.30am-11pm daily. Maincourses Accra Mall(02243225181).Open Côte d’Ivoire. predominantly from Ghanaand – andmostly delicious–dishes The menuisAfrican,withauthentic prices are slightly expensive. more the the samefood,althoughsomeof the Labone outlet.Happily itserves Royal BeachHotelAfrican Ghanaian VillageatLaPalm Beach GH¢8-16. 7am-10.30pm Sun.Maincourses Sat; 7am-midnightFri, Mon-Thur; 933 784).Open7am-11pm ontocentrallooking courtyard (0302 Tetteh Quarshie andSpintex Road, cartoon-style. ears mild tosteam-coming-out-of-your- from saucesranging and peri-peri pepper andthere’sbite, aselectionof ricehasa chicken’s juicy, thejollof Barcelo’s isbroadly comparable: the there. Thefoodhere much at Think Nando’s andyou’re pretty Barcelo’s Fastfood Expensiv Budget EW EW pin Break American Spin Break

Shopping

Elsewhere, a very welcome addition is the new Trashy Bags boutique in Osu. It recycles material from the streets into wonderful bags and accessories. The initiative has become one of Ghana’s biggest success stories. High-end treats for the home can be found among the decidedly luxurious selection on show at Joe’s Perspective Art Boutique, found in both the Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel and Labadi Beach Hotel (see p76). Those who fancy a full-on, no-frills Ghanaian Shopping shopping experience, meanwhile, should delve into the heady and intense fascinating frenzy that is Makola Market. Credit cards aren’t widely accepted in Ghana, especially out of major hotels and supermarkets. Visa is the most commonly used. In the markets only cash is used and it’s best to have a few smaller denominations as change can be scarce. Shopping La Maison centres Accra Mall There’s a been a bit of a resurgence Queens of fashion in Accra Mall recently, with nearly all the units now open. Clothing The fashion scene in Ghana is expanding like never before. Get shopping! boutiques, global sports brands and high-end jewellery outlets populate the ground floor of Ghana’s largest uxury fashion has arrived in through to the clothing. at Kiki Clothing. Over in Osu, shopping centre. Glamorous Ghana. For the last decade, Her first break was through the meanwhile, the popular Christie African-inspired fashions fill the Llocal designers have been British Council’s Young Enterprise Brown label celebrated the racks of Kiki Clothing , and a branch slowly infiltrating the international scheme that allowed her to show opening of its first boutique last of African fabric specialists Woodin design scene. Time Out Accra has in London. After trips to South year, filled with statement and Vlisco has a range of beautiful long supported many of them: Africa and further afield, she is jewellery and bold African prints. prints. Also on the ground floor are breakthrough designers such as now about to embark on her And for an all-out deluxe retail familiar brands like Levis, Puma and Christie Brown, RenéeQ and biggest ever show in Italy. Duaba experience, the shopping centre Swatch. Italian outlet Adolofo jewellery-maker Elizabeth Serwa can now count among the at the Mövenpick Ambassador Dominguez is new this year. A small Dankoro, whose beautiful items most important design brands Hotel (see p75) is stacked with food court includes fried chicken at Tebazile are sold to A-list coming out of Ghana, but Nelly is designer names and exclusive eatery Barcelo’s and upmarket bar celebrities in the US. cautious. “It’s a bourgeoning boutiques. Colourful designs can and restaurant Rhapsody’s (see p48), Also gaining serious attention movement and a growing fan also be found online at Afrodesiac and a central play area allows kids to is Nelly Hagan Aboagye. She was base for Ghanaian fashion, but Worldwide (http:// let off steam with a bouncy castle. preparing to show her collection there’s still a long way to go. afrodesiacworldwide.com). There’s also a new frozen yogurt (under the name Duaba Serwa) There are so many good store called Nominom. Upstairs is on the catwalks at AltaRoma, Italy designers in Nigeria for example.” Traditional souvenirs the territory of Silverbird which biggest fashion show, when we Another flash, and another outfit Shoppers in Accra can also stock runs a well-stocked book and music caught up with her. Although an to be photographed and we leave up on affordable, well-made store, and it’s also where you’ll find art school graduate and trained Nelly to prepare for one of the souvenirs such as the socially Ghana’s only multiplex cinema, nurse, Nelly has always been most important stages of all. responsible offerings from Global showing blockbusters, Nollywood drawn to fashion. “I started off Mamas, many of whose products and Ghanaian films. with jewellery, and then moved to Designer shopping are made by women-led Tettah Quashie and Spintex Road clothing” Nelly told Time Out If you’re interested in purchasing cooperatives around Ghana. (0302 823 040, www.accramall.com). Accra. “Jewellery is still an the latest Ghanaian styles Items include bold batik clothing Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; influence.” Nelly talks about the yourself, try browsing the rails at for all ages and colourful jewellery noon-6pm Sun. inspiration from her grandmother, one of Accra’s increasing number made from recycled beads. For and the importance of jewellery in of designer boutiques. In shiny larger artisan pieces there’s Wild A&C Square traditional cultures, and taking Accra Mall, you’ll find glitzy shoes Gecko Handicrafts, which sells Set in Accra’s prestigious East Legon that work and making it modern. and accessories in Jil Boutique, the likes of ceramics, textiles residential community, A&C Square Nelly is also clear that this follows as well as fun and flirty designs and furniture. offers a mix of shopping, dining and

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 49 Shopping 50 and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accrafor visitors Time Accra’s bestnew p41), oneof themallisYasmina’s (see of part (seep9).Alsoforming restaurant recently convertedhas been toa aDC-10planethat sights inAccra, bizarre themore overlooks oneof kebabs, andKFC. Alarge balcony sellsburgers and Marinas, which foodoutletsincluding as fast D-Café,aswell of welcome branch taking upthetoplevel. There’s a shops,withafoodcourt of floors three Marina Mallismadeupof Marina Mall yoloxperiences.com). Liberation City(www. Link,Airport IndependenceandNorth of Icon House, StanbicHeights, corner planned. Maison (seep54),andmore La of withabranch retail space up theexcellentSantoku.There’s a ( (seep45)andnightclub restaurants a relaxed lounge, caféandcocktail andwillhouseretail space, concept’ lifestyledescribed asa‘luxury floors. It’s three and willspan been inautumn2014 Icon Housewillopen NEW noon-18.30pm Sun. com). Open10am-8pmMon-Sat; (0302 515055,www.ancsquare. 232,JungleBlock Rd,EastLegon andveg stall. fruit coffeepleasant shopsandagood also hasachildren’s play area, has aswimmingThesquare pool. Totalclub, p69),which Fitness(see services. There’s health amodern andother banking, clinics health –plusaccessto entertainment see p38).It’s thatset from theteam 5 2 1 4 3 choice Critic’s Brown Christie Icon House

in Accra.Seep54. design andinteriorsshop La Maison.Thebest Nice storytoo. get yoursouvenirs sorted. Global Mamas.Whereto bags. ethical story,verycool Trashy Bags.Flawless best designers.Seep52. clothing fromoneofthe Christie Brown.Beautiful clothing. inspired materialsand Vlisco. StunningAfrican- See p54. See p53. See p53.

8am-9pm Mon-Sat; 9am-9pm Sun. 8am-9pm Mon-Sat;9am-9pmSun. Open marinamallghana.com). Inn(www.near Holiday BypassRoad,Airport City, Airport the kids. than aracket of more make the videogames play although area, There’s achildren’s stores. fashion and women’s men’s as plentyof aswell Nature, Pure All of is abranch 3695). Alsointhemall Compu-Ghana (054916 called pharmacy and store technology goods anda foreign inAccra, thebestfor oneof supermarket, isgiven floor ground over toalarge the boutiqueViva.fashion Mostof FaçonnableFrench franchise and Benetton,the include the complex restaurants. Elsewhere, bignamesin range of international goods anda international range of thankstoits with expats popular Koala isalarge supermarket, Koala ShoppingCentre 11am-7pm Sun. 9am-8pm Sat; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 740 000,www.game.co.za). Open Quarshie andSpintex Road (021 C11,AccraPlot Mall,Tetteh large quantities. theperishables are soldin of much bythefact something helped It’s mostthings, for pretty cheap equipmentandchildren’sgym toys. plus householdappliances,home TVs, from winestoflatscreen else, sellingjustaboutstore everything a very comprehensive department to Target. There’s it’s but noclothing Americans have thisplace compared Game DepartmentStore Supermarkets shoprite.co.za). Open9am-9pmdaily. opp Tigo (244779577,www. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), car park. going. There’s alsoanunderground for reason remains theprincipal goods, international fullof Shoprite, towards andacasino, but theocean) adecentview out outfor checking (worth cafésonthetopfloor of a few otheroutlets. There’s acouple opticians, alarge electronic and store ashoe shop, anupmarketinclude Less sowere which theotherstores, wasbustling. Shoprite supermarket Out Accra went topress, the whenTime was stillfillingupspace untilnow.thoroughfare, Althoughit Osu’s Street, on Oxford main It’s there’s surprising amall notbeen Oxford StreetMall 3.30pm Sat. 8.30am- Open 8am-5pmMon-Fri; 221 784,www.melcomgroup.com). Road, Area NorthIndustrial (0302 Dadeban 2nd Palace LinkRoad, off review, picture See p52. Melcom PlusComplex

major supermarkets stock major supermarketsstock candy bars? Most of the candy bars?Mostofthe Craving your Marmite or Craving yourMarmiteor International goods although usually at a although usuallyata international goods, international goods,

premium price. premium price. Top tip! 10am-9pm Sun. Open 8.30am-9pmMon-Sat, www.maxmartghana.com). Hotel(302783750, Tulip 37 Liberation Road, oppositeGolden 0302 518881). EastLegon (A&CMall, at Maxmart frames.picture There’s alsoabranch bedding, glassware, candlesand On thesecondisasmallselectionof phones, TVsandalittlecoffee shop. there’s jewellery, watches, perfume, brands. Onthefirstchocolate floor well-known withslabsstacked of aisles, alongsidestandsgenerously thedownstairs food sit tothesideof cheeses and filled withcoldmeats (0302 679890).Credit MC,V. Car Park, Central Accra HighStreet, Other location nearCity 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat;11am-8pm. Residential (0249138568).Open Woolworths Building,Airport Plaza,60LiberationHorizon Road, milk andotherfoodstuffs. andhard-to-find soyateas andrice foods, goodincludes muesli,frozen foods andwines,which international coming, however, istheselectionof shoes. for The mainattraction areasonablyor pricedsuitand course, the golf outfitfor and shirt upalast-minuteslacks place topick section) andhomewares. It’s agood agood (including children’sclothes Woolworth’s focusesonquality theSouthAfrican-owned store, Marks &Spencer. Like theBritish Woolworth’s isGhana’s answer to Woolworth’s Spintex Road (021765372, Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie and and householdgoods. wines counter, alarge selectionof South Africa.There’s alsoadeli from meats imported including – any UKsupermarket major foods–similarto a wideselectionof Mall.Inbothshops you’llStreet find as from anew, large, outletinOxford Mall,aswell intheAccra operates Africa’s largest foodretailer, Companies, The ShopriteGroup of Shoprite MC, V. Street Credit Mall:9am-9pmdaily). Mon-Sat; 11am-7pmSun(Oxford www.shoprite.co.za). Open9am-8pm Danquah Circle, Osu(0302765 VoltaResidential, Road. off There’s inAirport abranch electronicscookware, andlotsmore. foodstuffs, bakery, glassware, linens, Italsooffers outside. park you basic handy Osulocation–there’s acar bakery andalargebakery delicounter 665, www.koalashop.com.gh). supermarket. Agood supermarket. Open 7.30am-9pm Open 7.30am-9pm at this three-storey at thisthree-storey Mon-Sat; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; 9am-8pm goods –canbefound Sun. Credit MC,V. groceries to electrical toelectrical groceries from global – luxuries modern All mannerof Maxmart 37

Music-wise, ithasthecity’sMusic-wise, biggest theothershelving. of up much booksmake Bestsellers and business many self-publishedtitles. books relating toGhana,including there’s alsoareasonable selectionof – stores best musicandmagazine thecity’s Silverbird remains oneof Silverbird www.sytris.net). Oxford Street Mall (0302501931, pining for. EsquireClaire you’ve or quietly been Marie big-sellers –andthatcopy of books. You’ll find thelatest your-neighbour-proper-jealous how-to-get-filthy-rich-and-make- affection self-motivating for well asindulgingtheGhanaian novels, andteen as literature classic children’s fiction, popular books, collection, withbookcasesshelving finished –hadapretty sizable mallthatnevernearby quitegot –ina Mall.Thelaststore Street thistimeinthenewagain, Oxford this excellentbookshopisopening As we went topress, we that heard SyTris magazines Books and approx 6am-7pmdaily. Independence Avenue. Stallsopen Kojo Road Thompson and over spread store several blocks. department open-air – acolourful the flow andenjoywhatitis itfor it’sthe camera, besttojustslipinto lieintowering heaps.Forgetpeppers andrainbowsof plastic buckets snailsfill sea down dead-ends, channel alleys clothes-filled you Evangelical bandsplay onstairwells, baskets. ceilings andhead-perched hawked shelves, racks, from floors, your cedimightconceivably buy, shoesandanythingtextiles, else kitchenware, jewellery, sprawl of insistent, it’s aninitially bewildering the mostentertaining. Hot,noisyand commercial hub. It’s oneof certainly asAccra’sbe seen mostdynamic Makola Market whatmight enclose The loosely of definedborders Makola Market Open approx 6am-7pmdaily. Graphic Road andRingRoad West. Makola accessible. ismore (and itreally isanexperience), market theexperience purely for you’re a However, tosee keen if passengers. and dropping off up tro picking andregional buses hub,withtro transport an important imagine canbeboughthere. It’s also Everything you couldpossibly vendors. shops andstreet stalls, Market –asprawling of chaos it’scharacter like very Makola much In Accra. west outof leading MarketKaneshie isontheroad Kaneshie Market Markets Shopping Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accra for visitors 52 Time sale. jewellery piecesfor hand-finished notable of array tothe outré.There’straditional alsoa presented rangesfrom stock the custom-made –andhercarefully canbe garments appointment, you make aprior Nilson –if designed bySwedish owner Nanna areand doesitwell. Alltheclothes doespretty justthat, Dreams much withtheAfricantouch’, clothing Self-billed asselling‘modern Dreams byNana 10am-3pmSat. 9am-6pm Mon-Fri; www.christiebrownonline.com). Open 1st Lane, Osu(0244418477, boutiques bothinAfricaandabroad. in stocked runways andbeen oninternational has appeared in2008thelabel waslaunched brand Sincethe elegance. and cocktail statement jewellery, chic business trends: wearable think high-street Africanprintsinto incorporating in specialises The label itself premium andaccessories. clothing the stylish thingsinlife canbrowse venue where ladieswithaneye for isasophisticatedshopping store 2012.Thehigh-design in February itsfirst boutiqueinAccra of launch theofficial itonly celebrated while, a folkfor excitingfashion been theChristieBrown labelWhile has Christie Brown Sun. Credit V. 11am-6pm 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; Residential (0302764974).Open Woolworths Building,Airport Plaza,60LiberationHorizon Rd., women. for beachwear summer tops,dresses and menandlight and swimwear for emphasis isonT-shirts, shorts through Africa. The expanding fromoriginally Australia, isnow brand, surfwear The international Billabong Fashion Open 9.30am-6pmMon-Sat. 781 005,www.vidyabookstore.com). CoastEmbassay,Ivory Osu(0302 Oxford Street, next to 18th Lane, off attheMelcomPlusComplex. branch allages. There’s another kids of Ghana. You’ll alsofindbooksfor andsomegood magazines, titleson non-fiction andinternational travel books,novels, selection of interesting. There’s anexcellent inandfindsomething want topop you just if best bookshopinAccra Vidya’s isprobably Bookstore the Vidya’s Bookstore Credit V. 9am-9pm Mon-Sat;1am-9pmSun. www.silverbirdghana.com). Open Spintex Rd(050557444204, Accra Mall,Tettah Quashieand toplay them. machinery asdoesthe space, shelf amount of genres. DVDs make upanincreasing hiplifehighlife, andotherAfrican selectionof as well asagreat releases international of assortment

The collection in House of Damaris Damaris The collectioninHouse of House ofDamaris 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Open com/pages/Eleanors-Closet). www.eleanorscloset.com, facebook. Plaza Hotel,Osu(0206123680, 1st RingwayEstates, opp. Alexander little store. sunglasses, bagsandbelts. Asuperb as such as well asaccessories dresses today-to-dayelegant basics, awoman’sfor wardrobe, from options alivelystocks selectionof Theshop inEurope. expanded same way have H&MandZara willcontinueinthe that growth Eleanor’s Closetlabel, andit’s hoped the carries the clothing Most of that’s previously hard tofind. been elsewhere inAfrica)–something inGhana(andsoon quality clothing Closet istoprovide affordable behindEleanor’s The simpleidea Eleanor’s Closet Mall, TettehQuarshieandSpintexRoad(0302823043). lamaisonghana.com). Open9am-7pmMon-Sat.Otherlocation:Accra La Maison,Annexe,6thStreet,Osu(0302781074,www. GP56, 0302252984,024907636,[email protected]). Plus, Kaneshie(OtublohumStreet,NorthIndustrialArea,POBox packages toanydestination.ContactthetourcompanyatMelcom to thegroupisMelcomTravelandToursLtd,whichcanarrangetour Kumasi (Prempeh2ndStreet,Adum,322045578).Arecentaddition Meridian, oppositeVodafoneTemaCommunity1,0264922600)and Melcom haveaddedbranchesinTema(PostOfficeRoad,TrafficLight Children canbeentertainedonthemall’sbouncycastle. domestic goods.ThereisalsoaChoco’Painforcoffeeandpastries. dominated byaislesoffood,clothing,furniture,householdand beauty salonandasmallbranchofVidyabookshop.Therestis Distinct storesincludeSony,Gracefieldsportsstore,FirstChoice of concessionsandindividualstoresthatsomehowmeldintoone. the NorthIndustrialArea,wheremall’sthreefloorscontaindozens complexes, withsome28upandrunning.Thebiggestoftheseisin nation’s history–it’snowthecountry’slargestchainofretail Ghana’s independence.It’sexpandedandmorphedalongwiththe years inbusiness,althoughthecompany’srootsstretchbefore Happy BirthdayMelcom!In2014,thisAccrafavouritecelebrates25 11.30am-4.40pm Sat. Open 11.30am-6.30pmMon-Fri; Embassy(0244033664). American 3rd Street, Osu,oppositetheold Melcom Plus Choco’Pain in RECOMMENDED Melcom Plus Melcom Plus Accra Mall. ShopG57, Other location 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. 9781, www.jilboutique.com). Open Road (Oxford Street) Osu(0244436 Cantonments Lane, off 23/11th brooches. and matching asnecklaces such accessories stocks withstones. Italso many adorned individually designedlongdresses, offers of kaleidoscopicracks and sparkly accessories.Theshop stylish Italianshoes nice selectionof African-print dresses aswell asa colourful an abundance of this‘lifestyle11th lane, boutique’has Now innew, brighterpremises on Jil Boutique Sat. Credit MC,V. 8am-1pm 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; Palladium (0302664129).Open between GPOWato Roundabout and 551/3 Asafoatse NetteyRoad, print fabrics. and madefrom topqualityregional are brightly coloured – garments both menswear andwomenswear embroideries. superb sells Thestore with is traditionallyAfrican,but reneeq.com, www.facebook.com/reneeq.com, (www. orders internet but Accra, label now –isexclusively –for in she’ll putittogether. TheRenéeQ – T-shirts, canbecustom-made which herbespoke attention, inparticular caught our linequickly clothing to aboutiquebytheTrade Fair. Her hercar from of theback expanded edge Renée fashion, QBoatenghas cutting world tooneof corporate Having moved full-timefrom the Renée Q noon-7pm Sat. 10am-10pm Mon-Fri; Spintex Road (0244366205).Open Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie and you’dclothing expect. andsports trainers of usual array There’s uptheoriginal. pick alsothe the road, thisiswhere to the sideof salealloverfor mostly Accra, by you’ll thejerseys While see team. Stars – theBlack of Puma make theshirts Puma com). Open8am-8pmdaily. Ridge (0302974166,www.mkogh. Centre,Ecobank Development North 2nd Ridge Link,Tabon Street, near to befans. Wonder andDonKinghappen Stevie ahotreputation. gaining are hisclothes Songhai Empire, Sudan, Ghana,Maliandthe Taking from inspiration Ethiopia, own withanAfricaninfluence. store uphis toGhanaopen returned MawuliStreet, Kofi Okudzeto London’s Mayfair andBond of After working intheswanky shops MKO.GH 8771, [email protected]). 25 Abebrese Street, Osu(024437 designers. Accra’s most sought-after of quite rightly asone hasareputation footwear, and designs arangeof fabrics andmaterials. Healso inarangeof with subtleborderings muted colours in linenandsilks his known Accra, for Gucciof or The designerKwesi NtiisthePrada Kwesi Nti www.kikiclothing.com). Quarshie (0208174362, Accra Mall,ShopG39a,Tetteh come for. it’sbut herown designsthatyou beyond a simplelogo onthechest, T-shirts are good qualityandgo batik designs. TheKiki-branded children’s too, withcolourful clothes boutique hasagood selectionof available inMakola Market. The fabrics of the amazingarray from herinspiration of takes much styles. confident contemporary She Africandesignsinto traditional yet wearable designsthatsculpt stage withbold on theinternational herprowessTiti hasdemonstrated kaftans,bagsandshoes.traditional this boutiquesellsdresses, Run bythedelightfulTitiAdemola, Kiki Clothing choose your colour and ruffle and and andruffle yourchoose colour Ghana’s nationalfootball

ffabrics andclothing. of Mövenpick thatsellsaselectrange atthe hasalso opened store fabrics itstocks but too. Anew focused onsimply designedclothes, Mallismore inAccra The branch children –allcutfrom thecloth. men,women and for clothes you’ll alsofindawideselectionof fabrics space, thatdominatefloor it’sand seamstresses. While the by professional designers fashion ishighlyprints, thebrand regarded Dominated byboldAfricanwax fabrics. kaleidoscopic rangeof from choosing its shoppers andforeverpopular filledwith ishugely branch Street this Oxford Woodin four inAccra, stores One of Woodin Mon-Sat; 2-7pmSun. Inn.Open10am-7.30pm Holiday Bypass Road, City, Airport near Mall,Airport Marina location 10am-5pm Sat.Credit MC,V. Other 629). Open10am-7pmMon-Fri; 809 11thLane, Osu(0302776 inMarinaMall. also hasabranch also asmallmenswear section.Viva D&Gtocooover. There’slikes of shoesandbagsfrom the range of extensive hasan The topfloor designsbeingshowcased.couture haute thebroad selectionof of form continued success,primarily inthe theboutique’sgood for reason thantwo more decades.for There’s Accra label-conscious of urbanites tothe and accessories clothes supplyingViva high-end hasbeen Viva Boutique Mon-Sat; 1pm-7pmSun.Credit V. accramall.com). Open10am-8pm Quarshie (0302823106,www. Shop G38,Accra Mall,Tetteh shirts. casual polo retrocolourful ties,aswell asmore ascufflinksand such accessories suitsand good off-the-shelf Lewin isamen’s shopwith fashion TM guys, theLondon-basedbrand smart for clothes Selling smart TM Lewin Open 8am-7pmMon-Sat. pages/ROYAL-DENNIS-DESIGNS). (0244 226767,facebook.com/ Church,Opp Presbyterian Adabraka thespectrum. endof party towards themleaning the many of other innovative designs, are lotsof thereare attractive,but particularly fittogetherpatchwork, likewhich a Hisjackets, Ghanaian kente cloth. interesting designsare basedon designer’sThis fashion most Royal Dennis 10am-4pmSat. Mon-Fri; www.reneeq.com). Open9.30am-7pm Furniture (0302777926, Trade Fair Road, oppKpogas beads. andtraditional contemporary piecesand custom-made couture crystals, freshwater pearls, too– jewellery accessories worldwide. Theshopsellsher canbeshipped purchases ReneeQstyle) continuetoflow inand

Mall – are reminiscent of the the Mall –are reminiscent of Mövenpick andOsu Ambassador Mall, –foundatAccra mini-chain this The various of stores Fifth Avenue 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat.Credit V. Spintex Road (0248557817).Open Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie and Cavalli allprominent. Versace, andRoberto Moschino as withnamessuch influence, and there’s astrong Italiandesigner accoutrements accessories, andcigar fashion emphasis isonwatches, thewalls. and metalflameslick The dark-wood cabinets ringtheroom tempered iron, isof floor central moody an appealingly vibe–the From themomentyou in,there’s step world’s mostprestigious goods. the 2009, showcasing arangeof buyer, inSeptember Calienteopened Aimed squarely atthehigh-end Caliente hotmail.com, Facebook page). Osu (244504462,bagsbybernice@ Number 85,4thRingWay Estate, shirts. place mats,scarves, and skirts tablecloths, Her rangealsoincludes only Ghanaianhandmadefabrics. using are unique, and accessories herown shop.opened Allthebags thatsheeventuallypopularity wastheir own bagsin2002andsuch makingher began Ot-Ankra Bernice Bags byBernice&More 10am-2pm Sat. 5pm Mon-Fri; 803). Open10am- Adabraka (0302220 and CastleRoad, Road Thompson Novotel, Kojo Novotel Hotel. are showcased atthe designs traditional gold andsilver These lovely handcrafted Amanda’s Jewellery accessories Fashion Mon-Sat; noon-8.30Sun. vlisco.com). Open8.30am-8.30pm Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (www. outlet. flagship Mallisthe the two theAccra stores, comparatively mutedofferings. Of thanWoodin’scolourful tendtobelouderandmore which isreally allabout thefabrics,appeal the andbags,but sells clothing across theworld. Like Woodin, it waxfabric Dutch designs colourful its in 1846,andhassincespread VliscowasestablishedDutch-owned Vlisco 823 066),A&C AccraOther locations Mall(0302 9am-7pm Sat,Sun. com). Open8am-7pmMon-Fri; Barclaysby (www.woodinfashion. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), Mall. As well checking the places As wellcheckingtheplaces section for souvenirs, section forsouvenirs, listed intheshopping many galleries also many galleriesalso have a shop. have ashop. Top tip! souvenirs Crafts & (0302 919458,www.tebazile.com). Oxford Street, Osu 6th Street, off other rangesare refined. more her althoughsomeof colourful, isfunky,brand and chunky you allyou toknow. need TheTebi Cameron Diazare probably fans tells Mon-Sat. (302 770233.Open 9am-6pm 4th Volta Street, Residential Airport come here. yourself you totreat fresh meats.When need andsomeimported tapas yoghurts, preserves, fresh pastas, cold meats, among otherplaces. You’ll alsofind Italy France, andSwitzerland, from cheeses imported range of wine and...Nutella!Italsohasafull honey, coffee, jam,herbs,ground vegetables,fruit, spices,olive oil, products eggs, organic including avariety of This delicatessenstocks D-Deli 766). Callfor details. Broadcasting House(0242557 75 NorthRidge, oppositetheGhana isallfromchocolate Ghana. cosmetics. chocolate-based The there’s even awiderangeof offer, althoughit’s notalledible– chocolatiers. Ahuge selectionison tobefoundatthisdelightful stuff thedark, sweet There’s plentyof Chocolate Avenue Food anddrink by weight. pieces –everything ispriced therebut are somereally beautiful from aglossy, well-lit jewellery store, This littleshowroom cry isafar Africanmotifs. themsporting of silvercrafted andgold pieces,many still mansseveral tables ladenwith withherlatehusbandand business lady the a Lebanese whostarted roomthe back you’ll findGeorgette, jewellery, thatwouldIn beashame. silvergold handcrafted or piece of anyone upaunique wishingtopick gocould easily unnoticed.Andfor Jewelart Street, onOxford building Tucked away behinda white Hakim JewelleryJewelart MC, V. Open 10am-7pmMon-Sat.Credit: facebook.com/fifthavenueghana). Spintex Road (0303932131, Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie and Le Tanneur handbags. Tagpens, and watches You’llairports. findMontBlanc boutiquesin high-end watch Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 OutAccrafor visitors Time upwards. That Halle Berry and upwards. and ThatHalleBerry Oxford Street (0245001414). then upwards, and Open Mon-Fri 10am- Open Mon-Fri for a simple piece, and and asimplepiece, for 5pm; 10am-4pmSat. budgets – pay GH¢30 budgets –payGH¢30 with choice for all all for with choice Tebazile jewellery pieces, jewellery pieces, Elizabeth Dankoro beautiful statement statement beautiful in specialises

straight here. here. straight come home, you presents for need batik designs,tie-dye prints. or If usecolourful pull –mostgarments allages thatare really a children of it’s men,women and for the clothes However,and soapsmadefrom shea. items,evendecoration body butter home sacks, from oldflour –therecountry are totebagsmade the female co-operativesaround the goods tothecreativity of isatribute mostly bywomen. Therangeof fairly andmadeinGhana, traded details). Everything soldhere is womeninprogress.org more for WomenNGO www. (see inProgress bythe This wonderful isrun store Global Mamas 8am-5pm Mon-Sat;noon-5pmSun. www.artistsallianz.com). Open Labadi (0302771375, House, Accra-Tema Beach Road, Gallery, Omanye Artists Alliance inKumasi.Culture National Park andtheCentre for National theshopatKakum Castle, saleinsmalloutletsElmina for styles.traditional Itsitemsare also and inboth contemporary cloth, itemsandKentewooden kitchen jewellery, furniture, include bags, They sale. objectsfor wide rangeof hasa thisNGO price, them atafair then sell high-qualitycrafts create Gallery. Setuptohelplocalartisans Alliance Ghana iswithintheArtists AidtoArtisans of The mainbranch Aid toArtisansGhana Sat; somestallsopenSaturdays. 9am-3pm 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; Nkrumah Monument.Open 28th February Rd,nearKwame prices are negotiable. themarket. All of hassle attheback goods.leather You’ll encounterless antiquesand wood furnishings, drums, asmetal ornaments, such interestingholding more treasures hangar, market andintoanoutdoor The stallscontinuethrough themain andjewellery. clothing instruments, bags,musical carvings, textiles, of tourists. Thestallsare full crammed locationwith this isapopular andcrafts, arts A one-stop-shopfor National Culture) Arts CentreMarket(Centrefor MC, V. Open 9am-6pmMon-Sat.Credit [email protected]). Abebresem Street (0302778105, recycled beads. andsomepretty jewellery from some olderitems,afew textiles are onoffer,knick-knacks alongside fixed. AlltheusualGhanaian large building,thepricesare but this found inthevarious rooms of thesameitemscanbe Many of arelief. isabitof this Osustore Centre, theArts of After thechaos AACD African Market crafts Traditional

53 Shopping Shopping Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accra for visitors 54 Time homes, for high-quality furniture offers Absolute Furnishings Absolute Furnishings accessories and home Design 10am-5pm Tue-Sat. 508 500,www.wild-gecko.com). Open (0302 House, Okponglo Behind Gulf projects inGhana. products, many from humanitarian andotherdesign instruments handbags,musical furniture, objects, collectibles,homewares, brimming withhandmadeart It’s silver horn. and bull wrought of andjewellery textiles bespoke ceramics, finished wooden furniture, collectibles,beautifully Adinkra Ghanaian goods: emblematic characteristically production of the workshop employing for artisans a isforemost emporium art-shop workshop-cum- This multi-faceted Wild GeckoHandicrafts 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. www.trashybags.com). Open 6th Street, Osu(0544349857, Freitag products. therecycled bags reminiscent of large oldcanvas banners toproduce macs andbriefcases. Theyalsouse torain shoulder bagsandbackpacks everythingrange includes from –the tend tobeextremely colourful theproductspackaging, themselves food high-sugar Given of thenature theirefforts. litter-pickers for of around 60,aswell aspayingalegion of project employs afull-timestaff bagsandaccessories.The form together to beingstitched before The refuse iswashedandtreated have sachets collected. sincebeen than20million plastic –more Accra of onthestreets deposited wrappers endless plasticwaterandyoghurt recycling and reusing the of means The initiative wassetupin2008asa thatisTrashysuccess story Bags. welcome additiontotheremarkable isanextremely An Osustore NEW 9am-5pmSat. 9am-6pm Mon-Fri; www.suntradebeads.com). Open Asylum Down (0302235982, C522/3 Mango Tree Aveenue, beads. of jewellery increating out and groups alsogivesKati lessonstoindividuals andothermaterials. horn shell, bull coconut bronze, madeof earrings and bracelets necklaces, selection of SunTradeAccra, hasalarge regularly in exhibitions hasbead Torda Kati artist who Dagadu, Set upin1996byHungarian-born Sun Trade 9am-8pm Mon-Sat;1-8pmSun. www.globalmamas.org). Open Osu(0244530467, Supermarket, (Oxford Street), behindKoala CantonmentsRoad 14th Lane, off Trashy Bags

imported Italian furniture and and Italianfurniture imported aswell asarangeof accessories, and made hardwood furniture Ghanaian- holds awidevariety of andbedroom. kitchen It lounge, you around, IKEA-style, through Road.Spintex Theshowroom leads upthe premises justalittlefurther Trasacco hasmoved tohuge Mall,Casa inAccra After itssojourn Casa Trasacco com). Open10am-6pmMon-Sat. (0302 232988,artdeco275@yahoo. Farrar Avenue, andNsawamRoad with Africanaccessories. Scandinavian designandfusedthem mixed functionalityandsolidityof 15yearshigh standard they’ve –for toa Deco make customfurniture shop. Theworkers atArt furniture isthisremarkable crêperie Orangery as the complex neighbourhood Within thesameAdabraka Art Deco appointment onweekends. by 067). Open8am-5pmMon-Fri; hospital, AsylumDown (0244320 Accra YMCA building,by psychiatric service. upholstery and It alsoprovides acarpentry wrought iron, andcane. rattan wood, materials thatinclude in offices, hotelsandschools Independence, NorthLiberationLink,AirportCity). Accra Mall(0302823043)andIconHouse,StanbicHeights, lamaisonghana.com). Open9am-7pmMon-Sat.Otherlocations: La Maison,Annexe,6thStreet,Osu(0302781074,www. artists areinvolved. late 2014.Keepaneyeoutforexhibitionstoo,especiallyifGhanaian Accra Mall,aswellathirdLaMaisonopeninginsideIconHousein makes itaworthwhiledestination.There’sbranchofLaMaisonin combination, andthebuildingitself,oneofmostoriginalinAccra, jewellery andfragrances.It’saneclecticcollection,asuccessful from Damascus,andchinateasets.There’salsoaselectionof including architecturallydesignedtulipvases,hand-blownchandeliers More than40brandsareonofferatLaMaison,withhighlights themed ornaments(somebylocalartists),allwonderfultobrowse. leather chairs,eye-catchingartworkandsomefabulousAfrican- by NadaMoukarzel.You’llfindchunkysofas,gildedmirrors,reclaimed decorative itemscanbefoundinsidethisvastandairyspace,curated A designsavvyeditofhomeaccessories,furnishings,artand RECOMMENDED La Maison

elegant and creativeelegant piecesonshow the Hotel.ManyAmbassador of atthenew Mövenpicka branch Kukua hasrecently Ampah, opened setupby boutique, art This luxury Joe’s PerspectiveArtBoutique 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. www.hallinteriordesign.com). Open (0302 410151, after AbekaLapazandKata Hotel On Kwame Inkrumahmotorway, materials andfittingsintheir work. They usewell-known European bathrooms kitchens, andoffices. for fittings onupmarket design interior DesignoffersInterior bespoke Hall your home, inside lookof you’re the lookingtoupgrade If Hall InteriorDesign 7.30pm Sun. Sun. 7.30pm 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat;noon- www.casatrasacco.com). Open Quarshie Interchange (021823322, Behind AccraTetteh Mall(Shoprite), same complex. onthe space gallery-type an art Ghanaian flag. There are plansfor the of inthecolours fridge painted marvellous andarather furniture trinkets andwallhangingsto design-leditems,from all mannerof and Ariston.Otherobjectsinclude asStosa from such kitchens brands and Spintex Road (0302823043 Accralocation Mall,Tetteh Quarshie Open 9am-7pmMon-Sat.Other 1074, www.lamaisonghana.com). NEW NEW Sat; noon-6pmSun(0204311126). 10am-8pmWed;Fri; 8.30am-7pm Open 8.30am-9pmMon,Tue, Thur, Labadi Beach Hotel. Other location 321390). Open9am-7pmMon-Sun. Independence Avenue, Ridge (0204 Mövenpick AmbassadorHotel, souvenir. aclassy placefor A great metal.Beautiful. of colours natural the lefttogather partly polished, partly metal flowing sculptures, key rangecomprisesherelegant A WestAfrica. influencesof cultural therich herself, incorporating andadaptedbyKukuaare bespoke, 5.30pm Mon-Fri; 9am-3pmSat. 5.30pm Mon-Fri; comfortghana.com). Open8am- comfortghana.com, www.water 592, 0265650462,info@water 4 SafloLink,Abelenkpe(0302763 second large showroom. There’sand Hansgrohe. now a Duravit Starck-designed products for Schwab, KaldeweiandPhilippe Missel Schell, andstocks properties, residential designs andproducts for ItalsoprovidesVillagio complex. Mövenpick, AfricanRegent and the Labadi thenew including Beach, bathroom products tohotels WaterComfort hassuppliedhigh-end WaterComfort 1-6pm Sun. Open 9.30am-7pmMon-Sat; 220 782,www.orcatendances.com). 4 Graphic Road, Toku House(0302 kitchenware andtoys. decorations, furnishings, Thereoffice. are good qualitysoft country, boththehomeand for inthe thebestfurniture has someof that store Orca isadepartment-like Orca Annex review, picture See above. La Maison 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat. [email protected]). Open Korsah Road (0302784252, Roman Ridge Arcade, No9 SirArku up flowerscan pick initsshoptoo. italsooffersproperties, delivery. You in working onarrangements As inAccra. wellas arranger floral Jungle Flower isthemostinnovative Jungle Flower 9am-5pm daily. US embassy. (0540109501).Open Road,1-10 Link Cantonments. Near and patterns. textures highlighting organic all artifacts, handcrafted shoulders withlocally rub furnishings bespoke collection. Here, the underpins forms natural distinctive designaestheticbasedon lighting, or a home furnishings jewellery, or itisfurniture Whether showcases somewonderful design. and wellbeing Kaya centre, also bar As well asbeingarestaurant, Design GalleryatKaya e, 6thStreet, Osu(030278

). ). Shopping detox programme. detox programme. p7), there’s fresh juice apersonalised Alongside yoga byNana atBliss(see setinanoldcolonialhouse. spot, wellbeing. It’s atranquil certainly it isasenseof underlining allof (see p43)andabarp36),but design studio(seep54),arestaurant witha Kaya isamultiusespace 56 and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accrafor visitors Time Road,1-10 Link Cantonments. Near NEW Sat. 29pm-8pm Open 9am-7pmMon-Fri; 1611, www.allurespainthecity.com/). near Labone Junction (0302971 Ring Road East,Effiansaba House, massages, andmore. and topedicures and manicures are manifold:from skintherapies possibilities to leave. Itspampering vanity, you may neverof want and give devils intothegods – –or here the inconspicuousfront door onceyou but outside, enterthrough fromIt mightnotlooklike much the Allure SpaintheCity 1-8.30pm Sun. MallbranchMon-Sat; Marina open com). Open8.30am-7.30pm (0302 786487,www.allpurenature. almostoppositeCitizen Kofi)building 10th LaneRingwayEast,Osu(green Holiday near Inn). City, Road, Bypass Airport (Airport There’s atMarinaMall alsoabranch massage. andarms shoulders, back neck, can get a15-minutehead, For GH¢10customers as oilburners. aromatherapy aswell andmassage, tojasmine)andoilsfor lemongrass from salts (withscentsranging othersoaps,candles,bath a rangeof soap.and black Theshopalsostocks body butter products asshea such well-known in Ghana,including local Everything you’ll findhere ismade All PureNature beauty Health and Mon-Fri. 900). Open8.30am-5.30pm Arcade, Shopno. 203(0302763 House, Roman Ridge Shopping YaaOther location Asantewaa Kaya Spa&Detox anything else beauty-centric. Owner Owner anything elsebeauty-centric. powder, blushand lipgloss, lipstick, foundation, products, include which SOAesthetic thenatural stocks eyelash applicationandfacials. It consultation, eyebrow-shaping, salonofferingA beauty make-up SO Aesthetic 7am-5pm Sat. com). Open5.30am-9pmMon-Fri; (0302 224488,www.pippasfitness. 5th RingwayLink,Estate p69. friendly establishment. Alsosee and atthiswell-equipped train Ghana’s athletesalso Paralympic top-endfitness equipment. course, and,of trainers lessons, personal areservices danceandTaekwondo other Among itswiderangeof massages, amongothertreatments. and pedicures manicures, with spa centre hasabeauty Located inRingwaythis Estate, Pippa’s HealthCentre 764 154,www.marienoellespa.com). House F81/1,Kuku Hill,Osu(0302 and piercings. floor. Italsooffers tattoos the of take uphalf stations manicure wallandeight far stations flankthe ten fullspa-pedicure but chic, the decor services. Notonly is economical beauty fast, destination for inOsuisapremier spa salonand This full-service Marie Noelle’sSalonandSpa 8.30am-6pm. www.facebook.com/lajensalon). Open Osu(0302777837, Supermarket, (Oxford Street), behindKoala CantonmentsRoad 14th Lane, off and waxingare inprivate rooms. can have Massages theirnailsdone. professional barbers whilethegirls the boys canhave acutby glass tiles, byawall of Separated thenicest-lookinginAccra. of This upmarket salonisone unisex 9am-5pm daily US embassy. (0540109501). Open Lajen BeautyShop . Trashy Bags want to pay and start low want topayandstartlow markets. They want the markets. Theywantthe Have an idea what you Have anideawhatyou when bargaining in the when bargaininginthe sale much more than sale muchmorethan you do, so you’ll you do,soyou’ll Top tip! Haggling

win! Pharmacies 9am-3.30pmSat. Mon-Fri; (0302 519384).Open9am-6pm A&C equipment. as well asstate-of-the-art frames, Offering awideselectionof Care Centre Innes Eye&Vision 9am-1pm Sat. Open 9am-6pmMon-Fri, above Woolworths (0243393655). 39 CantonmentsRd(Oxford Street), be ordered here. lensesandsunglassesframes, canall eye-testing equipment.Designer Professional opticianswithmodern Eye EmporiumOptician Opticians 10am-2pm Sat. com). Open10am-6pmMon-Fri; (0243 201803,www.soaestheticgh. embassy next totheoldAmerican Court,809,11thLane, Osu, Viva atightship. runs and stylist Bruce-Adjetey Sacha An array of drums and percussion andpercussion drums of An array Kingy Drums Music 8pm Sun.Credit V. Open 9am-9pmMon-Sat;10am- 823 064,lifehealthcare.com.gh). Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (0302 medicines. international any callfor problems or of points thefirst probably beoneof andtidy,experienced soshould andcosmeticdentistry.services It’s travelinclude psychological health, a medicalanddentalcentre. Services There’s aswell here, as apharmacy Life HealthCare 10am-8pm Sun. 794). OpenMon-Sat8am-10pm; Star School, Labone (0302776 North Labone Road, nearMorning Bernswett Pharmacy and 37Station(0302776111). Liberation Road nearAkuafo Circle Hospital. Military islinked tothe pharmacy stocked aday, 24hours Open this well- 37 MilitaryHospital 9.30am-10pm Sat. 9.30am-10pm Sat. 8.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; Dzorwulu (0302778375).Open Open 24hours daily. Shopping Mall,EastLegon to the SID Theatre to theSIDTheatre Blohum Road, Blohum adjacent Adepa Pharmacy Bedita Pharmacy 7 PatriceLabumba Road, Airport 2pm-9pm Sun. Residential Area Mon-Sat; Mon-Sat; (0302 765486). Open 9am-9pm Open 9am-9pm

Facebook page). [email protected], (026 5502977,www.amazing-u.net, consultancy. communicationand eventetiquette, It’s also abranding, business NLP analysis, image consulting, organisers. colour include Services individuals,and event businesses for companyofferingand coaching help Amazing-U isanimage management Amazing-U services Visitors’ 9am-3pmSat. Mon-Fri mysonycentre.com). Open9am-7pm Oxford Street (0302 765094,www. Melcom PlusComplex. There’s atthe anotherbranch electrical goods Street. onOxford This smallSony outletoffers reliable Sony Centre 713338). 811270); Trade Fair (0206 771907); Spintex RanaPlaza(0302 326); OsuOxford Street (0302 Area Industrial (0302245 Northern air conditioningunits. microwaveswashing machines, and It’sbrand. somewhere tofindTVs, emphasisontheLG particularly electronic goods, witha manner of sellsall stores This large of chain Somovision 8am-6pm Mon-Sat. www.bang-olufsen.com). Open Circle, Osu(0302785757, F893/2 RingRoad East,Danquah- audio-visual brand. from theinternational expect all thetop-endequipmentyou would This Bang&Olufsenshowroom has Bang &Olufsen 1-7pm Sun. 823282) Open10am-7pmMon-Sat; Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (0302 and helpfulhere. are very friendly products. Thestaff andcomputing accessories of products. There’s alsoawiderange Apple poorly for service repair Ghana’s a only Apple alsoruns store Apple iShop goods Electronic Open 8am-9pmdaily. www.kingymensah.com). Oxford Street (0275081462, dropping intosayworth hello. other musicworkshops. It’s well aswellindividuals as andgroups, workshops for drumming popular The owner, Mensah,alsoruns xylophone maracas, bells. drum, or aKpanlogo onaDjembedrum, turn you cangetTake ithome. a sum if aroundback GH¢200–areasonable willsetyou drum Abespoke Street. fillthisshoponOxford instruments coaching andeventcoaching solutions.

Arts & Entertainment For live arts, sport and fun for the kids

Art & Film 60 Children 64 Music 66 Sport 68 embroidered symbols; ancient organisation’s most important Arts Centre strip-woven Kente cloths by the projects. It’s also developing a Akan and Ewe; African masks of debating forum and a public the type that inspired Picasso; and database of artists, organisations, intricately carved furniture. Also on galleries and patrons. show are full-sized coffins in the Off 2nd Circular Road, Art & Film shapes of crabs, running shoes and Cantonments (0302 776 502, eagles. Everything is for sale. There fcaghana.org). Open 8.30am-4.30pm are ambitious plans for a restaurant Mon-Fri; 11am-4pm Sat. that would take advantage of a advise on the provenance of each spectacular location overlooking the Goethe-Institut item. Come here for relaxed souvenir fishing vessels fishing out on the The cultural offering at the shopping – although don’t expect to Gulf of Guinea. Goethe-Institut just keeps getting find that exclusive painting. Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach better and better (see www.timeout. Abebresem Street, Osu (0302 778 Road, Labadi (0302 762 576, com/accra for events). The German 105). Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. www.artistsallianz.com). Open cultural centre has now been 9am-6pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. established in Ghana for more than Alliance Française d’Accra 50 years and offers an impressive The Accra-based arm of the French Arts Centre (Centre for array of musical events, art cultural centre offers a large range of National Culture) exhibitions, dance and film nights. artistic activities every week. It Just next door to the National Links between German art and that modern works of art. A key range If Ademola is around, she’s particularly excels in live music Museum is the Arts Centre. Hawkers of Ghana are given precedence, comprises her elegant metal flowing delightful company, chatting events, but there are also regular art attack from all sides as soon as you whether through sound installations, sculptures, partly polished, partly exuberantly about artists such as displays and talks from international arrive, but if you’re not exhausted mixed media pieces, performance left to gather the natural colours of Seth and Serge Clottey and Gabriel artists. The obvious focus is on by the scrum you can find carvings, art, photography or painting. metal. Beautiful. A great place Eklou, and happily offering her great French and Ghanaian artists (often baskets, drums, bags, beads, fabrics, There’s also a pleasant bar for a classy souvenir. knowledge of the Ghanaian art working together), which forms an sandals, sculptures, stools, rugs and in the grounds. Mövenpick Ambassador scene, past and present. Loom is artistic bridge between the two occasionally antiques. It’s a place to 30 Kakramadu Road, Top tip! Hotel, Independence regarded as one of Ghana’s cultures in terms of language, unearth some incredible finds and PMB 52, Online listings Avenue, Ridge (0204 premier galleries. education and artistic programming. gifts. The best bet is to head past the Cantonments (0302 For the latest art, 311 125). Open Samlotte House, 119 Kwame There’s always something hassle which you’ll inevitably 776 764, 8.30am-7pm Nkrumah Avenue, south of

cultural and film event and & Film Art interesting on; be sure to look at the encounter at the entrance and make www.goethe.de/ listings, be sure to look at Mon-Sat; noon-7pm Nkrumah Circle, Adabraka (0302 website before arriving in town. your way towards the back of the accra). Open www.timeout.com/accra Sun. Other location 224 746). Open 10am-5pm Liberation Link, Airport Residential complex, where it’s a bit more 1pm-5pm Mon- for up-to-date Labadi Beach Hotel Mon-Sat. Area behind Opeibia House (0302 relaxed. Haggling is expected. Thur; 10am-2pm Fri information. (0204 311 126). 773 134, www.afaccra.com). Open There’s also an art gallery, which library and information Open 10am-8pm Mon Kane Kwei Carpentry

Art & Film 10am-5pm Mon-Fri. sells prints and paintings at centre. Bar 5-9.30 to Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; Workshop reasonable prices. Mon-Fri; 3-9pm Sat. 2pm-6pm and Sun. This is the original workshop for the Aid to Artisans Ghana 28th February Road, near Kwame fantasy coffins that are now collected Aid to Artisans Ghana is a craft Nkrumah Monument, Accra Centre Joe’s Perspective Art Loom and exhibited as contemporary art Ablade Glover’s artwork shop selling souvenirs, chairs, bags, (0302 662 581). Open 8.30am-5pm Boutique Loom’s Frances Ademola has a all over the world. Caskets shaped as textiles, wooden gifts and jewellery. Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat-Sun. This luxury art boutique set up by popular gallery that exhibits birds, fish, aeroplanes, shoes, beer It has a handful of outposts around Kukua Ampah has recently opened a paintings and sculptures by a good bottles, cars and anything else that the country, including in Kakum Berj Art Gallery branch at the new Mövenpick selection of Ghana’s foremost stretches the imagination are National Park and Elmina Castle, Run by the painter Betty Acquah, Ambassador Hotel. Many of the artists, with a smattering of displayed as pieces of art, and Investing in Ghana but the most accessible and largest this gallery represents Larry Otoo elegant and creative pieces here are expressive Nigerian pieces. The sometimes sold as miniatures. Many store is located within the Artists and other well-established artists. It bespoke, adapted by Kukua herself, modest space has been here since examples are featured in the book Why now is the best time to buy Ghanaian art Alliance Gallery. The organisation also offers a good framing service. who incorporates the rich cultural 1969, and is bursting at the seams Going into Darkness by Thierry was set up to help local artisans 245/3 Ringway Link opp Video influences of West Africa into with the work of nearly 100 artists. Secretan. The thinking behind the create high-quality crafts and sell Mart, Ringway Estates (0302 764 frican art is a good which also offers a “consultation Kukua Ampah. If you dare take on them at a fair price. It’s a worthy 606). Open 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat. Artists Alliance Gallery investment. New World Map service”, is Tiga African Art – it’s the touts, meanwhile, you’ll also idea and combines well with the Aby El Anatsui, a Ghanaian a good place to buy paintings and, find a bargain at the Arts Centre. Artists Alliance Gallery, even if it is British Council artist recently appointed as the not so commonly, sculptures. If you head towards the back of tricky to know where one ends and This British cultural centre is not as first African Royal Academician, Loom Gallery owner Frances the centre, you’ll find the most the other starts. proactive as the Goethe-Institut or sold in 2012 for £541,250, a Ademola, doyenne of Accra’s art interesting stuff. Finally, you’re Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach Alliance Française d’Accra in record for contemporary African scene for decades, has been assured of seeing something Road, Labadi (0302 771 375, exhibiting arts, but it has some art. The works by Nigerian painters spotting emerging artists in Ghana wonderful at the Nubuke www.aidtoartisans.org). Open cultural events. Check the website are also fetching hundreds of for more than 40 years. She cites Foundation. It works towards an 8am-6pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. for details. There is also an office in thousands, while Ghana’s Ablade Gabriel Eklou, Gordon Amponsah, admirable cause and is one of the Kumasi (Bank Road, 051 37197). Glover, who had a recent solo Seth Clottey and his eldest son principal advocates of Ghanaian Artists Alliance Gallery Liberia Road (0302 610 090, www. retrospective at the October Serge Clottey as the artists to art. Don’t miss it. The hugely respected Ghanaian britishcouncil.org/africa-gh-contact- Gallery in London, has long gained watch out for. Samuel Agbenyegah artist Ablade Glover established this us.htm). Open 8am-4pm Mon-Fri. acclaim internationally. And of (also known as Samkobee) is also renowned arts venue, which has course, Ghana’s now famous a young and highly-regarded artist. Galleries become one of the most important Foundation for Contemporary “coffin art” has understandably “He came to me when he was 12 of its kind in Ghana. There are three Art (FCA) captured attention throughout the with two wonderful paintings,” AACD African Market expansive floors of art displayed in The Foundation for Contemporary world; works can be seen in the explains Ademola. “I said ‘who did If the Arts Centre seems a little too cool marble galleries. Some are by Art at the WEB du Bois Centre (a British Museum in London these?’ He said ‘me’. I didn’t hectic – and it certainly can do established artists, such as Owusu research centre for Pan-African Yet locally, the art scene is only believe him and told him to go and – this three-storey shop is full of Ankomah and George Hughes, history and culture, named after just beginning to get off the do another one. He came back much the same kind of goods, albeit whose paintings are reminiscent of African-American civil rights ground. This has been with four more.” with fixed prices. There are dozens Jean Michel Basquiat and Willem De activist William Edward Burghardt disappointing to some, although The biggest gallery in Ghana is of rooms, each representing a Kooning, while others are by new Du Bois) was set up by Joe others have seen it as an the Artists Alliance, founded by different medium: you’ll find and upcoming artists like Ebenezer Nkrumah, formerly of the National opportunity – quality is getting Ablade Glover. Everything on its woodwork, beads, Kente cloth, Borlabie. Market, rural and urban Museum, and Australian artist better all the time. If you’re looking walls is for sale. The Aid to clothing, painting, sculpture and a scenes are interspersed with political Virginia Ryan. It exhibits work by to purchase, aim for those works Artisans shop, also in the same handful of antiquities. There’s satires – and naturally, there are also up-and-coming artists in interesting that aren’t mere copycats. building, is a great place to pick definitely a fair amount of tat the shrouded figures and staccatoed ways, such as its Art in the Garden Commercial galleries in Accra are up crafts, as is Joe’s Perspective, (keyrings, flags, Ghana T-shirts), but crowd scenes of Glover himself. projects. Its growing library, now great places to pick up quality art which sells beautiful bespoke art it offers serious artworks too. There are collectors’ pieces too: with more than 800 books about at a decent price. One new gallery, commissioned and designed by Friendly (and numerous) staff will Asafo flags with appliquéd and visual arts, is one of the

60 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 61 Art & Film Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accra for visitors 62 Time Massimo.metal from theartist It’s made fromsculptures recycled are Particularly popular horn. silver andbull jewellery wrought of and textiles bespoke ceramics, finished wooden furniture, collectables,Adinkra beautifully emblematic the production of a workshop, employing for artisans and Elizabeth Vardon. It’s foremost herlife, lived inGhananearly allof Poem, woman whohas aDutch of isthejointbrainchild art-emporium workshop-cum- This multi-faceted Wild GeckoHandicrafts NEW Facebook Page). Teshie-Tema Road (0244114719, Alliancegallery.Artists atthe canalsobeseen coffin art good of More examples artefacts. London, alongwithotherGhanaian intheBritishMuseum examples good You’ll findacoupleof galleries. inEuropean appearances become well-known with artworks, but havebuilt in1957, first now Surprisingly, thecaskets were only itmightbeatuna. fisherman, you’re a tomato.in anonionor If you’re afarmer, you mightbeburied If thedeceased. of personality or coffins isthatthey reflect thelife 7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. 10am-5pmSat. 7pm Mon-Fri; tigaafricanart.com). Open10am- Labone (0302797158,www. professionally run. and sceneinAccra, to theart Awonderful addition art. exporting Lily shouldalsobeable toadvise in flagsand cloth. Kente sculpture, of pictures. There’s alsoagood range oilandacrylic pointillist creates andBettyAcquah,who Accra, who makes evocative of paintings scenes,SethClottey, street vibrant Otoo, whopaints asLarry such art, thebiggest namesinGhanaian of and consultancy. Itrepresents some thissmallnew Labone runs gallery LilyGoldsmiths-trained Sefa-Boakye at the Mövenpick Joe’s Perspective Art Boutique Tiga AfricanArt

10am-5.30pm Tue-Sat. 508 500,www.wild-gecko.com). Open (0302 House, Okponglo Behind Gulf toboot. shopping experience souvenir, apleasant andmakes for you aunique need unmissable if it really isaworld untoitself. It’s and Dzorwulu, dusty road inNorth along projects inGhana.It’s off and oftenfrom humanitarian the itemsare local, Africa, many of Wild from sources Gecko across ambitious design.Andalthough centre duetoPoem’s eye keen for available tendtobeslightly leftof design products. Theitems children’s books,bangles andother soaps,Ghanaian instruments, tables, handbags,musical objects, collectibles,homewares, brimming withhandmadeart Wild Wild Gecko Handicrafts [email protected]). Cantonments (0302777616, Kakramadu, Goethe-Institut, by animation filmsare shown. and features ANIWA, documentary inwhich television festival called biennial filmand NAFTI hostsitsown filmmakers. visits of totieinwiththe or festivalsseasonal take placeduring mostly Screenings and sound. cinematography writing, direction, art public oncomposition, thegeneral workshops for production. Italsohas infilmandtelevision courses Education Instituteandruns 1978 bythegovernment asaHigher Institute (NAFTI) wassetupin The NationalFilmandTelevision Institute National FilmandTelevision 5am-5pm Mon-Fri. 773 134,www.afaccra.com). Open Area behindOpeibiaHouse(0302 Liberation Residential Link,Airport television channels. children’sfilms, filmsand French of in French. Italsohasalibrary films thatitusestoscreens outpost Française hasanAccra-based network inFrance), theAlliance 130 countriesinadditiontoits the world (ithaspresence inover With networks dottedthroughout Alliance Françaised’Accra Film regular screenings of films by filmsby of regular screenings Accra’s centre has cultural German Goethe-Institut Many of the places listed Many oftheplaceslisted here offer the artist a fair here offertheartistafair price for their work, or price fortheirwork,or actively promote their actively promotetheir handiwork through handiwork through Fair souvenirs Top tip! the shop. the shop. Mon-Thur; 10am-2pm Fri library. 10am-2pmFri Mon-Thur; goethe.de/accra). Open1pm-5pm Cantonments (0302776764,www. 30 Kakramadu Road, PMB52, shows andfestivals. room hereuses thescreening for Film andTelevision Institute details. website for TheNational the became biginthe1970s).Check that inGermany Ghanaian diaspora highlifetraditional played bythe highlife burgher (afusionof rise of aboutHighlife?, adocumentary the and washeavily involved is inWho hosts workshops andfilm festivals, in themedseasons.TheInstitutalso onThursday nights They oftenrun directors. andinternational German 10am-9pm daily. silverbirdghana.com). Open Accra Mall(0302823271,www. listings andtimes. up-to-datecinema for com/accra www.timeout.(0507 242685).See inWeijacinema hasalsoopened films. A new Silverbird selection of great fulfilling its role well, witha movie it’s inGhana,but theatres 300 offering of capacity aseating Mall. Ithasfive thelargest theatres, large-scale offering attheAccra intown isthis cinema experience multiplex The mostluxurious Silverbird Cinema n ftheonly dedicated one of and thesmallestable totake

amazing tothinkthisis around 180.Films cinemagoers. It’s include screened well-heeled Accra Accra well-heeled Hollywood, mainly for mainly for Bollywood, production. It’s quality and high local filmsof Nollywood and often often Children

large safety-conscious play area makes a great place for all kids to expend energy. There are also activities such as bead-making. No 133 Noi Fetrika Street, Airport Residential (0302 765 616, www. kidzcottagegh.com). Open 9am- 5.30pm Tue-Fri; 8.30am-5.30pm Sat; 11am-8pm Sun.

Marvel’s Minigolf This is an impressive minigolf course that holds appeal for fun-loving adults as much as children (there’s a bar, after all). The 18-hole course has the usual challenges and tricks. You’ll also find a clubhouse, serving snacks. Forest Avenue, Abelenkpe traffic lights, Dzorwulu (0302 915 400, www.marvelsghana.com). Open 6.30am-10pm Mon-Thur; 10am-10pm Fri-Sun. Admission GH¢10. Shopping Chicco This international outlet is ideal not only for clothes and toys shopping (0-5 years) but as a retailer of hair, body and baby bath-time products, Children as well as furniture and car. Ground Floor, Marina Mall, Airport Roaming with the rugrats Bypass Road, Airport City, (0544 355 368, www.marinamallghana. Relax, there’s plenty to keep the little ones entertained com). Open 10am-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun and public holidays.

Ghanaian family is often a firm family favourite. The larger off the Danquah Circle, this Coco Angel big family. Having five or six hotels generally always provide a restaurant-cum-play place provides a This very brightly decorated store, Asiblings is no rarity and safe bet for fun days out by the handy stop-off for families. The resplendent in a vivid lime green and tending to the little ones becomes pool – especially for short-stay main attractions for children are a white colour scheme, stocks smart second nature, giving Accra a visitors; see p68. bouncy castle and games room. clothes such as blazers alongside child-friendly atmosphere that can If the heat gets too unbearable There’s also a restaurant. casualwear for 0-14 year olds. come as a pleasant surprise to – or indeed if parents fancy a bit 27 Orphan Crescent, North Labone Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, visiting parents. The city isn’t of retail therapy – all the city’s (0302 763525). Open call for details. Airport City (0264 603 995, www. without its obstacles, of course: shopping malls have some kind of marinamallghana.com). Open the traffic can be choking, play area. Good options include Kids Planet 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. pedestrians aren’t given right of the modern Marina Mall (see A lively, state-of-the-art venue with a way and, well, that’s a very big p50), which has the newest fancy entrance, arcade games and, Happy Minds Ghana ditch full of effluence below you. children’s shops and attractions. for more technophobic children, a Selling toys with an educational But you’ll find a love for good more traditional entertainment area. twist, which ranges from sewing and old-fashioned outdoor fun, and Creative kids will love the face- embroidery kits to puzzles. more and more kid-focused spots Activities painting, arts and craft classes and Behind the Netherlands Embassy, No are popping up in Accra. Baran dancing lessons (Zumba and 9 Nima Avenue, TV3 Road, Osu Play Garden, popularly known as Baran Play Garden HipHop), and other features include (0302 270 040). Open 8am-5.30pm ‘Play Garden’, probably offers the The high-energy outdoor facilities at a puppet show, karaoke, a bouncy Mon-Fri. most adventurous outdoor this popular play centre include two castle and basketball hoops. playground in the city – it’s bouncy castles, a trampoline, Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, Toy Mania somewhere kids can burn off bumper cars and a bungee Airport City, near Holiday Inn (054 Stocking international brands such loads of energy while parents trampoline. There’s also an 550 0000, www.marinamallghana. as Clementoni, Faro, Barbie, Hello relax under canopies with a cold on-premises restaurant serving com). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; Kitty, Playgo and MacMillan, Toy drink or two. pizzas, burgers and fries. 10am-7pm Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Mania has arts, crafts, electronic toys As well as the dedicated Plot N0 82, Osu Badu 2nd Street, and scooters for boys and girls. outdoor venues, La Palm Royal Dzorwulu (0202 631 631). Open Kidz Cottage Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road Beach Hotel (see p76) has an 9am-8pm daily. For children under 12 who love to be (0246 070 070, www.marinamall excellent play area, while Labadi pampered rotten, this is a good bet ghana.com). Open 9am-7pm Beach Hotel, where there’s always Churcheese – there’s a beauty parlour that goes Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; lots going on (see p76), remains a Sitting by the Morning Star School down well with little girls, while a 12.30-8pm Sun.

64 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 International Conference Venues RECOMMENDED Centre The centre, which has played host to +233 Jazz Bar & Grill Alliance Française massive international stars like Jay-Z +233 (named after the Ghanaian and Fat Joe, is also the venue for dialling code) is the best place to see bi-annual highlife festivals and large Music live music in Accra. It’s an concerts. intelligently designed club with live Castle Road, opposite State House, bands most days of the week – Osu. nearly all of a very high calibre, and Highlife at +233 music in their own right, so gospel many reaching ‘legendary status’, Labadi Beach performers are also very popular. such as highlife stars Gyedu-Blay Reggae DJs play the beach on And it’s hard to find a place Ambolley & the Sekondi Band Wednesday nights, near an open bar outside of Jamaica where there is (pictured left), who have a regular stocked with local and imported such high regard for reggae and Sunday night show from. Inside, beers. There are occasional live dancehall, as the Wednesday there are two floors. The band play bands too, as well as acrobats and reggae parties at Labadi Beach on a small stage downstairs, but can other entertainers. Groups come show. In terms of one-off also be seen from the U-shaped from around Accra as well as performances, touring bands tend upstairs. The clever bit is that there’s neighbouring countries, so the towards the Alliance Française or, ample seating outside too, looking standard’s very high and you’ll likely for bigger bands, the Accra onto a glass wall behind which the catch something that gets you Conference Centre. The woefully band play. And external speakers moving. It draws a mix of underused National Theatre will mean its almost as loud outside as international students, reggae lovers, occasionally have shows. in. Each section has its own bar with rastafarians and the less pious Highlife, it seems at times, is a attentive servers. The food – burgers, ‘rent-a-dreads’ looking to hook up continuation of the horn-blasts, hotdogs, chicken, chips, kebabs and with a foreigner, or at least sell some stallholder shouts and general pork chops – is mostly off the grill. Rasta-styled wares. It makes for a hum of the streets of Accra. The Order a handful of kebabs and a The Alliance Française masterfully promotes Francophone culture, worthwhile trip from town. You frenetic, polyrhythmic, slightly Star and you’ve got the makings of and on Wednesdays plays host to musicians from Ghana and across might also catch music on Sundays, discordant charms of Ghana’s one of Accra’s best nights out. The the globe, including Spain and, naturally, France. With a sizable when half the city seemingly trademark genre could have only music varies between highlife, blues, garden and two outdoor stages, it’s definitely one of the leading live descends on the place. emerged from this city. The origins jazz (although rarely hip hop) and venues in Accra. Seun Kuti, son of Afrobeat luminary Fela Kuti, has Beach Road. Admission GH¢3. of the music are in the big band anything else good. There’s only an played here, as have a selection of leading traditional and highlife sound, but it’s also melded with entrance charge (usually GH¢10) bands. Every year there’s a month-long festival of music, loosely National Theatre Caribbean Tropicana and deeply when the band merits it. It’s a hugely based around Francophone genres – invited musicians from Europe The unmistakable architecture of inspired by traditional Ghanaian popular venue, and deservedly so. often come over to play alongside Ghanaian artists. On Wednesday the National Theatre deserves to be music. Its modern legacy is even North Ridge (023 323 3233, nights throughout the year, meanwhile, there’s often highlife music. seen – it’s been described as more far-reaching: in 21st-century facebook.com/pages/233-jazz-bar- Its larger stage is used for bigger events, such as album launches by representing either a ship or, more Accra, hip hop, reggae, pop, and-grill). Open 5pm-2.33am local stars, or visits by French artists such as Under Kontrol abstractly, a seagull spreading its funeral tunes and traditional music Mon-Thur; 5pm-4am Fri; (pictured). The premises also has a good open bar and Nicolino’s wings. Chinese developers built the all mingle into one electrifying 2.33pm-4am Sat, Sun. pizza (see p48). theatre and its 1992 opening saw it cacophony. Eighty years since its Liberation Link, Airport Residential Area behind Opeibia House (0302 become the centrepiece for cultural heyday, highlife and its precursors Alliance Française 773 134, www.afaccra.com). life in Ghana. Today it’s home to the and off-shoots still provide the See picture review right. National Symphony Orchestra, the soundtrack to the city. National Theatre Players, the Musical youth The biggest shift in modern Big Milly’s Backyard Bywell Bar Southern end of Cantonments Road National Dance Company and three Music Ghanaian music, however, came Set on a lovely beach, Big Milly’s has On Thursday nights here, the Alpha (Oxford Street), Osu. youth groups. Its events calendar is A new generation of musicans are looking to their Ghanaian roots again with the emergence of hip hop live music – often reggae – on Friday Waves Band, led by Desmond Open 6pm-2am daily. getting better all the time, and

Music from the US. The country’s very and Saturday nights. The venue Ababio, plays highlife and reggae. major touring acts are slowly but own version, known as hiplife, was itself is an intimate hidey-hole to get Food and drink are available all Chez Afrique surely being included in the ix years since the first issue stars, such as those in our feature music most nights, and always of pioneered in particular by Reggie away from it all. Wanlov the Kubolor night and dancing goes on until This popular restaurant often has programme. There’s a main of Time Out Accra, and, what (see p20), are not only spreading a high standard. Indoor and Rockstone, the so-called can be seen here sporadically, morning – the crowd tends to be a live bands, including highlife auditorium, a dance hall, an Sa change there’s been in the their wings abroad but returning to outdoor seating mean it’s also a ‘Godfather of Hiplife,’ who began although you’re more likely to find a good mix of Ghanaian locals and musicians – the food’s good, but the exhibition hall, a Chinese garden music scene. Back then it their home city for gigs as well; good place to hang out with to rap in Twi, a local language. band performing Bob Marley covers. internationals, while the long bar is music’s better. Many sets start off and FolkSpace, an open-air theatre. sometimes seemed you’d be more something that previously wasn’t friends. Elsewhere, Chez Afrique Today, on the streets of Accra, On Fridays there’s a beach barbecue perfect for imbibing local beers and with a mixture of reggae, and other The box office inside the building likely to hear Ghana’s highlife and so common. There’s a bounce in is another popular option with from the bars and taxi stereos, and drumming from a cultural chatting. There’s a low-key energy (random) hits before returning with has a list of events. Its website is cutting-edge sounds in the clubs of the stride of Ghanaian musicians highlife fans. it’s hiplife that’s most likely to be group, and at any time there’s but the band, considered by many to a highlife set that gets everyone up also getting updated more regularly, London and New York than on the again. And that’s very good news. Surprisingly, perhaps, even La heard. Tic Tac, VIP Mensah and usually someone playing guitar. The be the new wave of highlife music, and dancing. The musicianship is but your best bet for listings is its streets of Accra. No longer. Across +233 remains the best place in Palm Royal Beach Hotel (see Batman, all of who mix hip hop food is excellent and the tiny nook of are a must-see. The venue also has usually excellent. Facebook page. Tours can be taken its bars and clubs, Accra has the city to see highlife. It’s a p76) often has highlife in its with highlife and, increasingly, a restaurant makes a pleasant place live music on Saturdays, and Off Lagos Avenue, East Legon (21 around the building for a small found its voice. Up and coming thoughtfully designed club with outdoor African Village reggae, have brought to sit and while away an afternoon. occasionally theatre on Fridays. It 911591). Open from 5pm daily. charge. Call 0243 758 876 or email restaurant during lunch Ghanaian music the full Kokrobite Beach, west of Accra can get a little rowdy later on the publicrelations@nationaltheatre. Traditional music at and dinner service, loop. UK acts such as (0287 288 889, www.bigmilly.com). weekend evenings. Goethe-Institut com.gh. the Goethe-Institut although in terms of Top tip! Dizzee Rascal, Sway Although the German cultural centre Liberia Road and Independence key venues, the Latest events and Lethal Bizzle, isn’t as well set up for live music as Avenue, Adabraka (0302 663 445, Alliance Française For all the latest music meanwhile, all of its French counterpart, the institute facebook.com/ is of more note for concerts, gigs and cultural Ghanaian descent, does hold music events, usually in NationalTheatreofGhana). its impressive events visit www.timeout. blend the musical the courtyard behind the building. regular roster of com/accra for full details legacy of their You might catch anything from Next Door musicians and of the line-ups and parents’ home with visiting musicians from Germany, There’s live music here on Fridays, highlife. On a similar timings. grime and UK hip the culmination of workshops held Saturdays and Sundays from note, the Goethe- hop. While they may by avant-garde artists or simply a 8.30pm, and you can catch some Institut is continuing to no longer be heard be celebration. There are also regular traditional song and dance expand its own live music under the shade of coconut film, theatre and dance events performances as well. The evenings programme – it seems every time palms, Ghana’s hiplife stars, like throughout the year. There’s a bar on sometimes see old-school highlife we roll up there’s some band the griots of the past, are telling the premises. musicians and singers coming playing. Cuzzy Bros (see p34) is their story. They are the poets of 30 Kakramadu Road, PMB 52, together for reunions. also becoming an important venue the 21st century Accra. Cantonments (0302 776 764, www. Beach Road, Teshie, opposite the with a jazz vibe. To hear the latest Ghanaian goethe.de/accra). Open 1pm-5pm Military Academy (0302 713 961, music, listen to the Spotify playlist Jazz at Something entirely different? Cuzzy Bros Mon-Thur; 10am-2pm Fri. Bar www.next-door.com). Open 10am Churches are major centres for at www.timeout.com/accra. 5-9.30 Mon-Fri; 3-9pm Sat. until late daily.

66 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 67 Boxing comprehensive range of membership Boxing in Accra is a serious packages depending on the level of business, and nowhere more so than access you want. Platinum includes in the quarter of Bukom – one of the access to the gym, pool, tennis poorest neighbourhoods in courts, sauna, and one massage a Jamestown. There are more than 20 month. One-off sessions are possible Sport boxing schools here. Joshua ‘The too. It’s a great place to spend the Hitter’ Clottey, Ike ‘Bazooka’ Quartey day relaxing. and Azumah ‘The Professor’ Nelson Independence Avenue, Ridge (302 (named because of his ability to 611 000, www.moevenpick-hotels. current hopes is Joshua Clottey, a ‘teach his opponents a lesson’) all felt com). Credit AmEx, MC, V. former IBF Welterweight the smack of a fist and the crunch Champion. The remarkable story of the deck right here. There is no Total Fitness Health Club of Ghanaian boxing is centred other area of the world with this This excellent gym has the latest around Bukom, a small shanty quantity of boxing schools, and no Life Fitness equipment. There are town in Jamestown. There are other single place that has produced personal trainers on hand if needed, more than 20 boxing schools in so many world champion boxers in but you can just go in and use the this area alone, more than the the last 75 years. You can try the equipment. There’s a nice 20m x 10m total found in the whole of many Greater Accra Boxing Association Pippa’s Health Centre pool out back with seating around it countries. Boxing is part of life in (0302 760 892) for details on bouts – plus a poolside bar to undo all Ghana. Any big bout involving a – they are usually fairly well your good work. It offers a wide Ghanaian boxer will dominate the publicised on billboards. several reasonable courses, although the walk-in rate is GH¢70 a class. range of classes including zumba, media for days, and a win by they are not always up to The on-site Mandy Fouracre Dance boot camp training, aqua aerobics someone like Clottey is treated, Polo international standards. Academy has a programme for and circuit training, among others. understandably, as a national Anyone interested in hobnobbing children between three and seven, 14 Jungle Road, A&C Square east victory. For a chance to catch a with the city’s elite can head to the Achimota Golf Club and jazz and ballet for ages seven to Legon (024 427 5463, facebook.com/ fight, either head to Bukom and prestigious Accra Polo Club It’s been 80 years since Achimota 18. There’s a variety of beauty Totalfitnessgh). Open 5.30am- ask around or, better still, ask a (Liberation Rd, Airport Residential Golf Club was first opened. Just 10 treatments are available, with a full 9.30pm Mon-Fri; 7am-7pm Sat; taxi driver. Area, 0302 772 775), located behind kilometres outside of Accra city range of pampering options. 10am-5pm Sun. Admission GH¢25 Basketball is also popular in the Woolworths building. Originally centre, this is a friendly club that is 5th Ringway Link, Ringway Estate one session. Accra. A common way into the founded back in 1902, the club is still happy to host visitors. The course is (0302 224 488, www.pippasfitness. sport has been for tall locals to going strong, attracting moneyed an 18-holer with a par of 72. com). Open 5.30am-9pm Mon-Fri; Pools be plucked off the streets by expats from around the world. The Achimota, Accra (0302 400 220, 7am-5pm Sat. For a small fee, usually around agents and taught to shoot polo season starts in September and www.achimotagolf.com). GH¢10-30, you can splash about in hoops, but it’s increasingly played runs until around Easter. Matches Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel one of the many hotel pools for a in the city’s schools and colleges. are held every Saturday and Sunday Celebrity Golf Club The Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel day. The best pools are listed below. from 3pm. It’s a good chance for Located in the city of Tema, this is a has the best sports facilities in the anyone new to the sport to learn popular golf club among the city right now. Its hugely African Regent Hotel Spectator about polo – local spectators are workers at local logistics inviting pool is a great 237/238 Airport West (0302 765 Football shirts talkative and will fill you in on the companies. There’s a way to cool down on on sale at a 180, www.african-regent-hotel.com). roadside vendor sports game’s rules and point system. The good restaurant too. Top tip! hot days (that’s to say Golden Tulip best bet is simply to turn up – Sakumono, Tema Splash time every day), with Liberation Road, Airport (0302 213 Football occasionally there’s a charge, (022 401176, 0303 Many of the hotels open comfy chairs and 161, www.goldentulipaccra.com). For visitors who want to watch a live especially for the big matches. 403 619). their pools for non- waiters on in-line La Palm Royal Beach match while in Accra, the best Several national teams visit Accra residents for a fee. The skates to whizz you By Labadi Beach (0302 771 Sporting chances chances are between August and every season. Tema Country price often includes other round a cold drink. 700,www.gbhghana.net). GH¢30 April, which is the official football Golf Club facilities such as a The pool itself is adults; GH¢15 children. Football, boxing and polo reign in Ghana. There’s plenty to keep you fit too season. Regular domestic games at This long-established children’s park. large, with a good Labadi Beach the Ohene Djan Stadium, to see Participation club (founded 1957) is shallow end for Labadi Beach (0302 772 501, Hearts of Oak for example, are one of the most children, and wide enough www.labadibeach.com). GH¢30 ccra is a colourful place. as ‘The Bison’, he’s the kind of country: Accra’s majestically generally safe for tourists. For sports professional clubs in Ghana. to do a few token lengths. It’s adults; GH¢15 children; under Stalls sell art and ripped-off player who typifies the country’s named Hearts of Oaks (whose spontaneous purchases, official It’s located on the way to Tema. in the middle of the city, but you’d fours free. ACDs, bright taxis streak sporting ethos: play strong, play supporters’ chant is surely one of tickets can be bought at the stadium Football Mile 20 on Accra-Aflao Road, opp barely realise the fact. Further round Lizzy Sports Complex Sport down the roads - and seemingly solid, play to win, play to the world’s quaintest: ‘Be quiet itself or through a friendly concierge Lizzy Sports Complex Free Zone, Tema. the manicured lawns you’ll find two Cotton Street, near A&C Mall, East every male wears a football entertain. But while Essien may and don’t be silly/We are the at your hotel. Violence is thankfully The eponymous Lizzy is Marcel floodlit tennis courts. The gym, Legon (0302 521 851, www. Sport jersey. Arsenal, Chelsea and be the most expensive Ghanaian famous Hearts of Oak’) and rare at games in recent times. Desailly’s mother. In 2011, the Gyms overlooking the pool on the second lizzysportcomplex.com). Manchester United are the most player of all time, there are Kumasi’s Asante Kotoko, aka the famous former pro opened up this If you feel the need to do a bit of floor of the hotel, is well equipped Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel sought after, but we’ve seen dozens of other names who have Porcupine Warriors. Since the Ohene Djan Stadium world-class sporting complex in his exercise in Accra (and if standing with all you’d expect, and friendly Independence Avenue, Ridge Sheffield Wednesday, Burnley, made it big in Europe after league’s inception in 1956, Up to FIFA standards, this venue native Accra. There’s one almost outside and sweating won’t do the personal trainers are on hand if you (302 611 000, www.moevenpick- even Scunthorpe United shirts. coming through the ranks of local Hearts of Oak have won 20 hosts national team games and is the full-sized pitch, plus three all-grass trick) then there are a couple of need a bit of advice or impetus. hotels.com). Usually, the badge on the shirt clubs such as Hearts of Oak and championships, Kotoko 24. Their home of one of Ghana’s most five-a-side pitches. Alongside is a excellent gyms listed below. There’s a spa and two Thai massage Novotel Accra doesn’t matter – the wearers are Asante Kotoko. nearest competitors have popular teams, Hearts of Oak. very inviting pool overlooked by a Upmarket hotels usually also have a treatment rooms with outstanding Barnes Road (0302 667 546, supporters of any football. And The fact that almost all managed just three. If you’re Concerts and other public events are sports bar and grill, a basketball gym of sorts, but the best bet is to masseurs, plus a sauna. It offers a www.novotel.com). then some. Ghanaian footballers of note ply looking to see a Hearts game in also held here. The stadium hosted court and a children’s pool. The pool visit the couple listed below. All have You don’t need to be in Ghana their trade overseas makes the Accra, they play at the the opening and closing games of can be used for GH¢15 a day (GH¢10 walk-in rates, but if booked by Hearts of Oak score at the long to appreciate that the Ghana Premier League something 40,000-seater Ohene Djan the 2008 Africa Cup of Nations. for children), which also entitles you sessions for a week or longer there Ohene Djan Stadium country has a special relationship of a curio. If you’re a sports fan, Stadium near Independence In front of Independence Square to use the floodlit football pitches in are discounts available. with the sport. Every bit of open though – or a sociology student Square. If you’re searching for the (0302 237 673, the evenings. There are football land in Accra is a football pitch in – you’ll find that the matches, and full, high-decibel match www.accraheartsofoak.com). training programmes for youngsters Pippa’s Health Centre waiting. It’s not uncommon to see their attendant fans, reward experience, snare a ticket for the between five and 16, as well as a Pippa’s is one of the best gyms in groups of young boys playing a first-hand experience. African Kotoko clash, which is the Baba Yara Sports Stadium hugely successful Corporate Football Accra, with a wide range of Life full-tilt game on the beach, even football has a reputation for being liveliest game of the year. With a capacity of 40,500, the Baba League. If Marcel is in town, he’ll Fitness equipment, air-con, satellite after the tide’s submerged more dynamic and direct, and the GPL Ghana’s second sport (some Yara stadium in Kumasi is Ghana’s often be around. TV and a modern music system. It than half of the pitch. The is no exception. The crowds, say it should be its first) is, of largest. It is named after one of the Near the A&C Shopping Mall, East has a wide variety of activities on Premiership, or EPL, gets huge complete with ball-jugglers, course, boxing. The most famous country’s best footballers, a former Legon (0302 521 851, www. offer, including body combat, audiences on Ghanaian TV and drumming troupes and fierce Ghanaian boxer of all time is star of the national team who played lizzysportscomplex.com). spinning, pilates, zumba and modern games are repeated endlessly tactical debaters, are usually just Azumah Nelson, who has been for Asante Kotoko (the stadium’s African dance. For the little ones until the next game is shown. as watchable. inaugurated in the Boxing Hall of home team). It’s up to pretty good Golf there’s a tumble-tots class. Michael Essien, currently at AC Despite there being 16 clubs Fame. Ike ‘Bazooka’ Quartey also standards (floodlights, well- One-on-one lessons can be booked Taekwondo is an important element, Milan, is the best known in the top flight, there are only fought greats such as De La Hoya maintained grass, scoreboard). for those looking to improve their and classes are held by one of Ghanaian football player. Known two dominant teams in the and Vargas, and among the Kumasi (www.asantekotokofc.org). swing during their trip. There are Africa’s best Taekwondo fighters –

68 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 69

Hotels Accra’s best beds: budget, boutique and blowout

Hotels 72 of African and international dishes. Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City Standard rooms are pretty basic – don’t expect too many frills when it comes to the bathrooms. There’s a business centre with internet terminals and paid-for wireless in Hotels the rooms. A regular events schedule keeps things lively, and the modest but pleasant pool area sees all ages having fun in the Prices and classification sunshine. The service is more Another important piece of news accomplished than most in Accra. is that, in a bid to halt the Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet declining Cedi against the US (wireless, shared terminal). Parking. Dollar, the government has forced Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. Room hotels to charge in Cedi only. In service. Spa. TV. this issue, therefore, all the prices 237/238 Airport West (0302 765 are in Ghanaian Cedis. The 180, www.african-regent-hotel.com). exchange rate is fluctuating Rates GH¢828 double. Rooms 109. considerably at the moment, Credit AmEx, MC, V. however, so expect these rates to change as well. Just use as a African Sun Amber Hotel guide instead. This is a very new addition to the The time of the rack rate is over, Accra hotel scene. At the time of with many international chain going to press, we hadn’t fully hotels now basing pricing on the investigated any of its 200 rooms. model used by the aeroplane It’s very close to the airport (next to industry. However, our listings the Holiday Inn). There’s a gym, a loosely follow these categories business centre, a restaurant and a albeit in Cedi: Expensive (over small bar. US$200); Mid-range (US$100- Plot 24 , Airport City Area (0302 $200); Budget (under US$100), 742 747, www.africansunhotels. each for a double room per night. com). The lowest price we’ve given in seriously inviting and the staff are Deluxe. There’s a wide food offering the range is for a basic double, Golden Tulip more alert than most. The hotel also from the pool-side bar (hugely North while higher prices refer to larger The Golden Tulip is one of the most has five meeting rooms and a popular on Friday evenings for the rooms and suites rather than popular hotels in Ghana, thanks to business centre, with wireless sunset), a bar in the lobby and the Dzorwulu expensive top-end rooms such as its sizable rooms, its conference throughout, and its accommodation Wiase Restaurant, which does a presidential suites. Bear in mind facilities and its location near the options range from suites and superb buffet, especially on Sunday Expensive that if you shop around, cheaper airport. The pitched-roof lobby is apartments to chalets and regular afternoons when locals flock to Fiesta Royale Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel rates can almost always be found among the most spacious in the city rooms. It’s worth checking online enjoy a vast Ghanaian spread. If The Fiesta Royale has smart rooms, on less popular days and at (there’s a life-size wooden giraffe for cheaper rates and longer term you want to try all the Ghanaian efficient service and a good bar and quieter times of year. The greeting arrivals), the pool area is discounts. food in one go, come here and stock restaurant, making it an ideal bet government has put a 15 per cent There’s a large casino (open up. The same hotel group has just for business travellers and families. tax on all accommodation and our Sun-Thur 1pm-4am; Fri, Sat opened the Atlantic Hotel in Its location, no more than 15 Going up? prices include this. Using credit 1pm-5am) immediately next door, Takoradi (see p82). minutes from the airport, is superb. cards shouldn’t be a problem in and it’s a pretty grand affair – one Bars (2). Business centre. Disabled The rooms are large – choose Hotels in Ghana continue to improve, becoming destinations in themselves the major international hotels, but of the two biggest in Accra, along access. Gym. Internet (wireless, free between standard, executive suite many of the smaller hotels won’t with the one at La Palm Royal shared terminal). Parking. Pool or chalet – and all are kitted out accept them - we’ve indicated Beach Hotel – with roulette, stud (outdoor). Restaurants (2). Room with DSTV, free wireless, ample hat makes a great hotel? All eyes at the moment are on Ghana, however, are out of the which ones here accept credit poker and blackjack set over three service. TV. wardrobe space and a safe. A large A comfy bed? A pillow the Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast city. Along with the Atlantic Hotel cards, but like everywhere in adjoining levels. Plot 19 & 20 Airport City (0302 740 breakfast buffet is also included. Wmenu? A gastronomic City, which despite some big in Takoradi, Planters’s Lodge (see Ghana, make sure they’re Bars (2). Business centre. Gym. 930, www.holidayinn.com). Rates The hotel pool is on the small side, restaurant? A high-tech gym? Well, delays is set to open in 2014. The p82) is also very good. And to the accepted when you arrive. Internet (wireless, free shared GH¢980 double; GH¢1064 suite. but a backdrop of Italian-style all of the above (ok, maybe not the building itself is inspired by a east are the superb destination terminal). Parking. Pool (outdoor). Rooms 168. Credit AmEx, MC, V. gardens makes it a picturesque and pillow menu) – but the list could go traditional compound house – the resorts Royal Senchi (see p84) Restaurants (2). Room service. TV. on. A concierge who knows your type commonly built by tribal and Aqua Safari (see p84) – both Airport Liberation Road, Airport (0302 213 name the second time you come chiefs across West Africa – with worth the trip out of town. Critic’s 161, www.goldentulipaccrahotel.com). in? And that you take the Tribune residences built around a central Residential Rates GH¢736 double. Rooms 238. Hotels in the morning? Getting factors like courtyard with shaded seating Location choice Credit AmEx, MC, V. this right is something that actually areas and a performance pavilion. This is a major consideration in Expensive few hotels possess. In Accra, until It certainly looks gorgeous on traffic-clogged Accra. Most of the African Regent Hotel Mövenpick. Good service, Holiday Inn Accra Airport Hotels recently, the level of service has paper, and has the chance to major chain hotels have It’s telling that the lobby at the great pool, a nice gym and This hotel is a cut above the been playing catch-up – even establish itself as a complete congregated around Airport African Regent has become a 1 spa . See p75. standard you might have come to checking in and out could take an luxury destination. Residential, which is close to frequented spot for informal expect from the Holiday Inn brand age. But we’re definitely seeing a Among existing properties, La many businesses and, of meetings. Its popularity is Holiday Inn. Handy elsewhere in the world, and the turn around. At places like the Villa Boutique should be course, the airport. partly down to the location, top buffet, cluster of expensive suits usually Mövenpick Ambassador, La Villa celebrated for creating a gorgeous Both the Novotel and hotel’s location – the 2 spacious rooms. See p73. found milling around in the bar area Boutique, Holiday Inn, Takoradi’s retreat among the bustle of Osu. the new Mövenpick Top tip! international airport is an accurate sign of the property’s Atlantic Hotel (see p82) and some Its rustic chic look, while not are in central Accra Cedi vs Dollar is just minutes Roots Hotel. Great mid- popularity with the business world. others, service standards are ground-breaking, is certainly a – again, good for By law, hotels in Ghana away by car – and range hotel in the heart of The lobby is a stylish, airy space full nearly at European levels. And it’s refreshing change from the ‘could business contacts. now have to charge in partly down to its 3 Osu. See p75. of floral displays and modern this investment in the people, not be anywhere’ style of many hotels. Elsewhere, La Cedis. Check the exchange laid-back, African wood sculptures, but from a just the pillow menu, which makes Roots Hotel Apartment in Osu, is Palm Royal Beach rate carefully before upmarket ambience. La Villa Boutique. Lovely leisure aspect it’s perhaps the for a good stay. Great hotels are also excellent. It’s a mid-range and Labadi Beach paying. Expect Public spaces are little space with rustic Med-style pool – an inviting sight on also inclusive destinations in hotel, a rarity in Accra, with a have seafront fluctuations. stylish and manage to 4 rooms & pool. See p75. a hot day – that’s the main draw themselves – they might have a small well-equipped kitchen in locations perhaps 10 successfully fuse West (despite the building site of new good lobby bar (with free WiFi each room, and plenty of space in minutes from central African motifs with Royal Senchi. Impressive hotels around it). The rooms are please), a pleasant pool or a set of most of the rooms. It’s a great Accra, or up to 40 minutes from modern touches. There are some place a couple of hours good, with all the amenities you’d east of the city. See p84. tennis courts, often all open to and increasingly popuar option. the airport when the traffic is quality dining options too, with the 5 expect – it makes sense to take the Holiday Inn Accra Airport non-residents. Some of the best hotels in particularly bad. Mukyia Restaurant offering a range Superior over the similarly priced

72 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 73 clean area for unwinding. All in all, also a gift shop for souvenirs. For 5 Mozambique Link (0302 225 155, host of on-site dining options, and a it would pass as a reliable and business visitors, the Kpehe www.coconutgrovehotels.com.gh). downtown location makes it a well-run hotel anywhere in the RECOMMENDED conference room has reasonable Rooms 36. Rates GH¢495 double. RECOMMENDED convenient base for accessing the world: the service is a cut above La Villa Boutique Hotel facilities, but you’ll need to contact Credit MC, V. Roots Hotel Apartment city’s restaurants, night spots and many of its competitors. Its the general manager first. business centres. One of the hotel’s Mansonia restaurant has a private Bar. Business centre. Internet (shared Highgate Hotel key markets will be business people, dining area for groups and parties, terminal). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). This is, in some ways, a great little and they can expect an excellent and the bar and restaurant are also Restaurant. Room service. TV. find. Hidden away among the quiet range of services: there will be a becoming very popular with 9 Kakramadu Link, East backstreets of Asylum Down, the fully equipped business centre, non-residents, thanks to a menu of Cantonments, next to Philip’s Clinic 33-room Highgate is a property indoor parking and a car and well-cooked Ghanaian, African and (0302 761 162, www.mahoganylodge. with the kind of down-at-home limousine service. In addition, there international specialties. Elsewhere, com). Rates GH¢557 double. Rooms character that many of its slicker, are seven meeting rooms with the the Ceiba terrace offers a range of 14. Credit AmEx, MC, V. larger competitors lack (although it latest audio-visual equipment, a snacks and food. could do with a bit of TLC in some number of outside meeting areas Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet rooms). The accommodation is and a conference centre measuring (wireless, free shared terminal). Adabraka, generally spacious (they differ, ask 1,750 sq m. Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. to see the rooms first), while the Bar. Business centre. Gym. Room service. Spa. TV. Ridge & wood-panelled bar serves as a Internet. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants. Motorway Extension, North perfect refuge after a day in the Room service. Spa. TV. Dzorwulu (0302 517 411, Asylum Down heat. If you’re after internet access (024 143 44711, kempinski.com/ www.fiestaroyalehotel.com). Rates there’s a cable hook-up in each accra). Rooms 269. GH¢692 double. Rooms 100. Credit Expensive room, although the complimentary AmEx, MC, V. Alisa Hotel North Ridge wireless is sporadic. Service is Novotel Accra Split into three differently modelled friendly but not particularly snappy This four-star family-friendly hotel Mid-range residences – the Pegasus, the or accomplished. A free shuttle bus might lack some of the pizzazz of Nogahil Hotel Landmark and the Heritage – Alisa service runs to and from the airport. the newer places – the outside could The three star Nogahil Hotel offers is effectively a trio of separate The restaurant is nothing special - do with a lick of paint – but the clean and modern lodgings around hotels. Rates don’t differ from head instead to nearby Asanka Novotel’s selection of restaurants 15 minutes drive from the airport. This gorgeous boutique hotel is a quiet and stylish escape close to building to building, however, and (see p44). This tower of self-catering apartments is a fantastic and convenient and facilities provides ample It’s an intimate arrangement – just the centre of Osu. It continues to expand – they’ve recently added the claim is that the facilities are Bar. Business centre. Internet base in central Accra, just a block from Oxford Street. The standard entertainment for holidaymakers of 10 double rooms and two suites – another eight rooms to the complex, including two apartments. identical throughout. As an (wireless, free shared terminal). apartments are good, although it’s definitely worth upgrading to a all ages. The walls are covered in but sits in easy reach of city Bedrooms have large beds and muted tones of chocolate and cream. accommodation choice it’s certainly Parking. Pool. Restaurant. TV. superior room if possible, as the difference is quite pronounced. All local art (as part of a project to attractions. The staff are friendly The hotel itself is an immediately relaxing place. A modest plant- an appealing enough option for 70 Mango Tree Avenue (0302 233 are air-conditioned, with well-equipped kitchenettes including fridge, encourage arts in Accra) and and accommodating, and service, fringed pool is overlooked by a high terrace perfect for parties and getting away from the urban grind, 315, www.highgatehotel.com). Rates cooker, microwave and utensils. The suites, unsurprisingly, have sunshades and loungers line the for the most part, is efficient. event – in fact, it’s a great place to spend a lazy Sunday (shhhh) - with a birdsong-quiet pool area, a from GH¢481 double. Rooms 33. more space and light than the rooms. Some of the suites are in fact small outdoor pool, while tennis Internet access is available in the and the whole place basks in a classy European feel. Style pervades tennis court and a number of Credit V (5 per cent charge). duplexes, with two double rooms and a separate seating area – courts and a fitness centre keep lobby, and satellite television in the every element, even the rate card comes in the form of a tiny brown different restaurants and wine perfect for families who require a bit more space and like to be able exercise fiends happily active. The rooms. An onsite restaurant offers a scroll tied with string, and while the prices may seem high, they’re lounges. However, the property’s Paloma Hotel to close the door on the sleeping kids. For those times when a hotel has several mealtime options, range of Chinese, international and often cheaper than the big hotels, Just as importantly, the place main marketing push is its The Paloma Hotel has benefited ready-prepared meal is called for, there’s a cosy 7th floor restaurant including an international menu and local Ghanaian dishes, and the hotel couldn’t be more inviting. There is the possibility of negotiating on conferencing facilities – there’s a lot from a recent update, although it’s with fantastic city views. A café by the entrance downstairs is also buffet, and its 190 air-conditioned frequently puts on live music to the price a bit, especially over stays of a few days. The overall of event space – so if you’re here still a simple, mid-priced two-star a convenient, if somewhat pricey, source of drinks and snacks. rooms range from standard and entertain its guests. Escape the heat appeal is topped off by an onsite Italian restaurant, Soprano, open during the week, there’s a good option with 65 air-conditioned rooms Those looking to stay for a while can negotiate a monthly rate. All superior rooms to larger suites with by plunging into the swimming 6am-11.30pm, and a new high-end eatery called Gusto (see p39). chance you’ll be sharing the hotel and five chalets in the central told, it’s a great addition to Accra’s accommodation portfolio and two bedrooms. The lobby’s Sangaw pool, or claim some shade at the It’s cosy, welcoming and has a menu brimming with classic pool-side with a large number of delegates. Asylum Down area. Complimentary puts some of the more expensive hotels to shame – its prices make Bar has some interesting historical pool bar area. Mediterranean favourites. Bars (3). Business centre. Gym. extras include breakfast, which can it one of the only mid-priced options in Accra full stop. Highly flags from Ghana’s colonial past. Bar. Internet (wireless, free shared Bar. Internet. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. Room service. TV. Internet (wireless, shared terminal). be taken in your room if preferred, recommended. However, once you’ve added in the terminal). Parking. Restaurant. Room 13th Lane, Osu (0302 730 3336; [email protected]; www. Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants and airport pick up/drop off. Sharing Bar. Gym. Internet. Restaurants. Room service. TV. GH¢56 second person supplement, service. TV. lavillaghana.com). Rates GH¢957 standard; GH¢1,120 suite. Rooms (3). Room service. Spa. TV. the hotel’s complex are two 15th Lane (0302 701 3276; [email protected]; www.roots-hotel. the hotel’s prices aren’t very Tetteh Quarshie motorway extension 30. Credit AmEx, MC, V. North Ridge (0302 214 244, restaurants, both of which offer the com). Call for rates. Rooms 37. Credit MC, V. competitive. (0800 7297 2900 UK, 1-888-790- www.alisahotels.com). Rates GH¢692. standard range of international Bars (2). Concierge. Business centre. 5264 US, http://nogahilhotel.com). Rooms 173. Credit AmEx, MC, V. cuisine, and a tour agency eager to Gym. Internet (free wireless, shared Rates GH¢361. Credit MC, V. East Legon police station (0302 520 Pool (1 outdoor). Restaurant. Room show visitors around the area. Also hype. Waiters on in-line skates glide com). Rates from GH¢1,069 double. terminal). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). 784, www.royalrichester.com). Rates service. TV. Mid-range on site, Champs Sports Bar (see p38) across the gleaming patio, Rooms 260. Credit AmEx, MC, V.. Restaurants (2). TV. call for details and prices. Credit 15 First Circular Road, East Coconut Grove Regency Hotel is back is with a good menu, while a supplying fresh snacks and icy Barnes Road (0302 667 546, East Legon AmEx, MC, V. Cantonments (0302 770 007, Part of the same group that owns conference centre seating 150 is drinks to holidaymakers stretched Kempinski Hotel Gold www.novotel.com). Rates from www.midindihotel.com). Rates the acclaimed Coconut Grove Beach available too. There is an internet out on loungers around the pool. An Coast City GH¢1,008 double, GH¢1,031 suite. Expensive GH¢692 double. Rooms 27. Credit Resort outside Elmina, this café nearby and guests can also tap onsite luxury shopping centre is Soon to be competing for top billing Rooms 190. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Royal Richester Cantonments AmEx, MC, V. decade-old city property isn’t quite into the wireless in the hotel. The filled with high-end goods, from with Ghana’s very finest hotels is the

Far from being a conventional hotel, as enticing as its coastal cousin but Paloma Hotel rewards frequent catwalk fashions at Fifth Avenue Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City. Hotels Royal Richester is a series of Expensive Mid-range still has considerable appeal. It offers visitors with substantial discounts, (see p53) to Afrocentric art at Joe’s The Kempinski group has a global Osu ‘Boston-style’ townhouses for long Midindi Hotel Mahogany Lodge just 36 rooms but has the feel of a sometimes up to 30 per cent – ask at Perspective (see p54). Elsewhere, reputation for doing things in style, term stays or short holidays. Each Sitting close to the US Embassy in The Mahogany Lodge is a small hotel far bigger than that, and an reception for details. There’s also a Sankofa restaurant pleases with an this will doubtless be no exception. Expensive Hotels of these townhouses has three East Cantonments, this relatively 14-room hotel in a quiet but central elevated pool terrace makes it a branch in the Industrial Area (0302 array of international flavours, and Scheduled to open in 2014, the La Villa Boutique Hotel bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living new and upmarket residence offers a location near the German Goethe- pleasant spot in which to unwind. 248 916). the one2one cocktail lounge property will mark the brand’s West See picture review p74. area, a kitchen, a dining room, a cool and calm experience. All rooms Institut. There’s a choice of standard Not all the red-brick exteriors are as Bar. Business centre. Internet expertly whips up any requsted African debut and has the potential Bar. Internet. Pool (outdoor). lounge and a laundry room. They have sizable beds, flat screen TVs, and executive rooms, as well as aesthetically pleasing as they might (wireless). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). tipple. There’s a great little deli by to be the city’s most dazzling hotel Restaurant. Room service. TV. also have backyards. The standard wireless internet access and good two- and three-bedroom apartments. be, it has to be said, but a location Restaurants (2). TV. the shopping galleries, and the yet, with a complex spread over 35 13th Lane, Osu (0302 730 3336; and superior versions only have bathrooms (the suites even have a The rooms are simple, and best close to the city’s business and Ring Road Central (0302 228 700, restaurant is becoming popular too. hectares and comprising numerous [email protected]; www. single beds, so couples will need the separate shower). It’s probably worth described as homely rather than embassy quarter gives it an obvious www.palomahotel.com). Rates It’s also worth saying that the buildings, including commercial and lavillaghana.com). Rates GH¢957 deluxe, executive or premium suites. splashing out on one of the very corporate, but not quite boutique – it pull and the rooms themselves are GH¢390 double. Rooms 65. Credit breakfast is one of the best in the residential towers organised along a standard; GH¢1,120 suite. Rooms There are also two apartments, as large suites if you need space. Some won’t win awards for design. decked out with traditional MC, V. city right now. For more details on ‘broad boulevard and esplanade’. 30. Credit AmEx, MC, V. well as a luxury penthouse. Services have balconies. There’s also a small Nevertheless, they’re comfortable Ghanaian designs. There’s a popular the (excellent) spa, tennis courts, The hotel itself will have 269 rooms, include a recently refurbished spa, a outdoor swimming pool, a restaurant and perfectly adequate. The Mango Sunday brunch from 10am to 4pm sauna, and fitness centre. Don’t all at least 50 sqm in size, including a Mid-range gym, a small shop and a ‘rent-a- and a basement conference room. Room Restaurant serves an every weekend. Wireless is available Central miss the massage here, whether pair of seriously snazzy presidential La Paradise Inn chef’ service for private dining, The bar is an excellent space, with a international menu as well as throughout the hotel and extensive you’re staying or not! suites. Guests can also enjoy an You’ll find a selection of apartments alongside a bar, lounge and large outdoor terrace, a few TVs Ghanaian cuisine, including some conference facilities span three Expensive Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet extensive spa with 10 treatment and a swimming pool at this friendly restaurant. showing sport and a comfortable interesting fusions such as chicken floors. There is a 50 per cent Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel (wireless, shared terminal). Parking. rooms, a hammam, yoga studios and establishment, within easy reach of Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet. seating area. Overall, it’s a good and mango tartlets. There’s also a discount on weekends. Backed by 16 acres of palm- Pool (outdoor). Restaurants. Room a fully kitted-out beauty salon. Other the hubbub of Osu. Self-catering Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. option if you need to be in this area. small bar. The most pleasant place Bar. Business centre. Internet studded grounds and a sweeping service. Spa. TV. hotel features include an organic options include one- and two- Room service. Spa. TV. Bar. Business centre. Internet to eat and drink in the hotel is along (wireless). Parking. Pool (outdoor). azure pool, Accra’s newest luxury Independence Avenue, Ridge (302 food bar, a cocktail bar, tennis courts bedroom apartments, all with living 5 Richester Lane, East Legon, opp (wireless, shared terminal). Parking. the arched Delia terrace. There is Restaurant. Room service. TV. bolthole is certainly living up to its 611 000, www.moevenpick-hotels. and a flashy outdoor pool. There’s a areas and kitchens, and there are

74 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 75 Hotels Credit MC,V. com). Callfor details. Rooms 37. roots-hotel.com; www.roots-hotel. 15th Lane(03027013276;info@ Room service. TV. Bar. Restaurants. Gym.Internet. review, picture See p75. Roots HotelApartment double. Rooms 9.Nocredit cards. laparadiseinn.com). RatesGH¢352 4th OstweStreet (302762085,www. Bar. Pool. Internet. travellers. are relevant business for facilities are onhand,andthere a restaurant without cookingfacilities. Abarand studioapartments also cheaper 76 and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accrafor visitors Time equipment; sauna and massage andtablevolleyball tennis court floodlittenniscourts, with thegym, than satisfied willbemore types children’s andfountain.Sporty pool swimming alongsideasmaller pool asizable features area outdoor with aprivate balcony, whilethe suites,allrenovated,luxury allcome The property’s pristine rooms and aneyerooms onpromotions). –keep these eye-watering of rates rack given especially fierce, the isbecoming (although competition quality accommodationinAccra for atoppick this haslongbeen accommodation docomeatacost, andspotless pool turquoise while thehotel’s tropical gardens, gold-coloured standinglamps. And and sofas darkceiling fans, leather colonial cool–thelobbyaloneisall thathasretained its high-end resort Labadi isawell-maintained Beach Labadi Beach Beach Expensiv There are several restaurants, andsauna. fitness centre and spa acasino, include hotel features taking upthisopportunity. Other children, andit’sfor well worth adultsandGH¢15 GH¢30 for to non-residents for are facilities open pool suited tokids. All well shallow pool there’s alsoa ( by themainpool right park enclosed andsafe pleasant Kids ThemePark isa Sunday. TheLaPalm alazy place tospend inGhana,anideal complexes thebestpool It alsostillhasoneof safes, wi-fi,airconandcomfybeds. TVs, well laidout,withflatscreen Standard rooms and are large, clean isthatit’sidea avillage complex. are basedinround –the ‘chalets’ good, however: all159,whenopen, rooms have alwayspretty been The base. had moved toa temporary area last visitedthemainreception processrefurbishment –whenwe mind, itisgoing through aneeded the new With front-runners. thisin by eclipsed hasbeen but in Accra, thebest This hotelwasonceoneof La PalmRoyalBeach MC, V. double. Rooms 164.Credit AmEx, labadibeach.com). RatesGH¢1,201 Labadi Beach (0302772501,www. Room service. Spa.TV. Parking.terminal). Pool. Restaurants. (wireless,Internet free shared Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Bar (2).Concierge. Business centre. from.to choose hastwo bars andarestaurant resort areservices alsoavailable. The ), and see p64),and Most of the hotels allow Most ofthehotelsallow around visitors to the pool for a visitors tothepoolfora often includes the use often includestheuse small(ish) charge of small(ish) chargeof of otherfacilities. Top tip! Open doors GH¢30 a day. It GH¢30 aday.It aiyacs iylf,bti you’re if but accesscitylife, easily thosewantingto locationfor ideal Royal Hoteldoesn’thave Beach the Tema, African town of harbour and the Accra Situated between African RoyalBeachHotel AmEx, MC,V. standard double. Rooms 159.Credit www.gbhghana.net). RatesGH¢1,053 By Labadi Beach (302215100, service. Spa.TV. outdoor). Restaurants (4).Room (wireless).Internet Parking. Pool (2 Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Bar (4).Concierge. Business centre. also betaken inthehotelbar. can it.Meals thefew places to see of highlife evenings onweekend –one added bonusthere’s oftenlive stew withplantain).Asan (bean asredGhanaian dishessuch red placetosample makes agreat 215100). Itoverlooks and thebeach, GhanaianVillage (0302 and thatched totheopen-sided those andhead and theContinental–we’d avoid the Royalincluding Dragon Chinese Internet (wireless,Internet free shared Bar. Concierge. Businesscentre. was excellent. when wetheservice visited,but therooms were alittletired of Mid-range fe odds frelaxing after agood doseof TV, Some andtelephone. fan air-conditioning, satellite takinginsea by thepool, balcony, have evenviews or hopping come withaprivate on ahire bike to rooms, which each rooms, each which thenearby explore La Palm Royal Beach looking for. The70 be justwhatyou’re bright hotelcould thenthis area, Credit AmEx,MC,V. Rates GH¢527double. Rooms 75. www.ramadaresortaccra.com). Accra-Tema road (0302717235, the Awi Koonaa Street, off Restaurant. Room service. Spa.TV. Parking.terminal). Pool (1outdoor). (wireless,Internet free shared Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Bar (2).Concierge. Businesscentre. centre. business conference rooms anda menu. Thehotelalsoincludes play andakids’mealtime area with adedicatedchildren’s a pool, children are catered specifically for are available, andgym parlour and views. Ahairsalon,massagebeach –somewithgreat garden chalets 45guestrooms and30 between accommodations are divided Thehotel’spackage. 75 apretty enticing Resort Ramada combine togive guestsatthe performers of from anarray entertainment weekend vibrant views, tropical gardens and Beach Ramada Resort Credit AmEx,MC,V. Rates GH¢361double. Rooms 70. www.africanroyalbeachhotel.com). (03027111118, 51 Beach Drive Restaurant. Room service. TV. Parking.terminal). Pool (outdoor). 30. Credit AmEx, MC,V. Rates GH¢400-569 double. Rooms 775 8685,www.afiavillage.com). Road, 2 Liberia ExtensionOsu(024 Parking. Restaurant. Bar. (shared Internet terminal). thebeach. course, and,of Jamestown it’s StarSquare, toBlack close although thecitycentre, way outof and carvings. isalittle Thecomplex wooden masks of and anassortment sellsfabrics,shop –which jewellery –actuallya and theAfiaGallery cuisine, Ghanaian andinternational offers which Bar andRestaurant, Tribes(nine rooms theocean), face Hotel’s theAfia Beach 29 rooms of ismadeup complex This beachside atreception. hand outscubagear to would need staff tothesea, closer AfiaAfrican Village were any If Afia AfricanVillage GH¢64-79 double. Rooms 11. magicbeachresort.com). Rates Ushertown (0244315416,www. HighStreet; Church, off Anglican Behind GhanaTelecom and spiritualretreats andyogatherapies, . holistic of join inaprogramme wherea massage you parlour can avegetarian and include restaurant shows.traditional Otheramenities and eveningused for parties in 2010,is A new opened bararea, and budgettravellers.backpackers to would but appeal fans 2007. The11basicrooms have only and given in refurbishment amajor in1997 Itwasopened Accra. central calmwithinminutesof oasis of offers resort This beachfront an Beach Resort Rising PhoenixMagic Budget

Trips Out of Town The best of Ghana

Trips Out of Town 78 Accra to Elmina Castle Cape Coast While the 165 kilometres (103 miles) Trips Out of Town of road linking Accra’s urban sprawl with historic Cape Coast may appear to hold little attraction – other than as an unsettlingly bumpy, and in Mr Bright’s Surf School woods are alive with birdsong and places rather busy, route between the there are more than 150 different two cities – travellers willing to species of flora and fauna. venture short distances from the main road will be rewarded with Tetteh Quarshie’s Cocoa Farm attractive townships, picturesque This was the first cocoa farm in This beaches, and a scattering of forts was the first cocoa farm in Ghana worthy of a day, or in some cases a and the birthplace of Ghana’s few days, of exploration. Just a mere burgeoning cocoa industry. The 25 kilometres (15 miles) west of original seedlings were brought from Accra, the palm-tree-strewn Fernando Po Island just off the coast Kokrobite Beach seems light-years of Equatorial Guinea by Tetteh away from the frantic capital. It’s Quarshie himself in 1879. Three home to backpacker haven Big original trees remain. There’s little to Milly’s Backyard, which, as well as see (don’t expect a visitor centre or providing accommodation, keeps the shop), but a guide will take you party spirit in full flow with a beach around the plantation for a few cedi bonfire and barbecue every Friday – get the price first. Contact the and live reggae on Saturday nights. caretaker at the Mampong Chief’s Popular day-trips in the area include Palace for entry. guided canoe trips through the Mampong, Akwapim, a couple of Densu River and wetlands, and visits includes fresh seafood such as non-members can visit between Pastel-hued fishing boats fringe the miles north of Aburi Omanye House to Solo Forest Monkey Sanctuary lobster and barracuda, as well as a Mon-Fri. The accommodation is in beaches, groups of schoolkids trip (0302 769 536). Admission GH¢4. ([email protected]), four wide selection of vegetarian options. suites and chalets. along in the sunshine and dinky kilometres from Kokrobite. Heading It’s also open for breakfast. There’s Gomoa-Fetteh, off the Main Accra shops and houses create a through- Where to stay west along the coastal road, you’ll good, basic accommodation here too. to Winneba road (021 773 070, the-ages architectural mishmash. Lansdown Ibru Heights find the turning to neighbouring Double huts with a fan cost US$20, www.whitesands.com.gh). Past the lagoons on the edge of ‘‘Hidden away’ doesn’t really do dwellings Fete and Senya Beraku and self-contained huts with air town, meanwhile, are some of the justice to the location here. This – set six kilometres apart – each conditioning are US$30. Single Getting there most enticing swathes of beach in smart new villa complex in the lush with their own attractions. For a slice rooms are US$13 a night (US$27 Many of the destinations along the the country. folds of the hills around Aburi isn’t of history and cliff-top views head to with bathroom and AC), dorm rooms coastal road – including Kokrobite, All of which makes it somewhere you’d stumble across Senya Beraku’s 18th century Fort of are US$13. Houses are available to Senya Beraku and Winneba – can be unsurprising that Cape Coast is such – it’s only accessible via a long and Good Hope. The quiet fishing rent for groups too. accessed via direct tro-tros a tourist draw. The centre is an winding road, and that’s just how the villages are a slice of unadulterated Kokrobite (024 999 330, from Accra’s Kaneshie appealing place in which to watch owners want it. Judging by the coastal Ghana. 0242 206 961, www. bus station on and wander – particularly down by Range Rovers lined up outside, it’s Also along this road is the bigmilly.com). Main Top tip! Winneba Road. If the crescent-shaped harbour – but Exploring Ghana pretty exclusive. It takes around an exclusive White Sands resort, a courses GH¢14-30. Getting around using private while there’s an intoxicating feel to hour to reach from Accra (although members-only property with The intercity buses are a transport, take the the pace of life here, it also has a Leave the city and see the best that Ghana has to offer road improvements mean this time gorgeous chalets, an excellent Tills No 1 Hotel comfortable way to travel, coastal road west sharply sobering history. You’ll most will reduce), but it’s worth the drive. beachside restaurant and an For quality seafood see Directory, and taxis for of Accra. For likely be aware of Cape Coast Castle You’ll find eight villas, each with infinity pool. to accompany the day may also be Kokrobite, the already (Barack and Michelle Obama hana is often called ‘Africa Takoradi, which has witnessed an Mountain bike hire is available at three bedrooms, a living area, jacuzzi The lively fishing harbour of Fetteh’s idyllic beach surprisingly reasonable turning is around 22 visited in 2009 to much fanfare) – it for beginners’, and for good influx of workers following the Aburi Bike & Hike Tours (024 420 and patio – they’re well-appointed Winneba, with its sizable beach and setting try the in a group. kilometres (14 miles) was here that some of the worst Greason. While no-one’s discovery of off-shore oil.. 9587), located just outside the and tastefully decorated. The price, European and Royal cemeteries, is a restaurant at Tills No 1 from the city. For Fete atrocities of the slave trade era were pretending that you’re not going botanical gardens. They can at $400 for two people, is reasonable worthwhile stop-off too. Elsewhere, Hotel. The jambalaya’s and Senya Beraku, the committed. The city was founded by to encounter the odd bit of hassle Getting around provide tours, bikes and self-guided too – it’s not expensive for the sake turn south at Akamu for another good and the king prawns and turn-off is roughly 40 the Portuguese in the 15th century, here and there, the country offers It’s relatively easy to get from A to routes around the area. of being expensive. The property pretty fishing harbour, Apam, where red snapper are landed nearby. kilometres (24 miles) from Accra; the and the solid white bulk of the castle markedly less logistical B – all the country’s main roads are also has a conference suite seating you can spend an extremely basic There’s a barbecue for groups and a road then forks, heading left for Fete acted first as a fortified base for headaches than some of its well served by public transport – Aburi Botanical Gardens around 24 (corporate groups being but undeniably novel night in wide range of Ghanaian dishes. and right to Senya Beraku. The overseeing the export of gold and regional counterparts. As a although countless hours in a This national park, with the Accra one of the main income streams Dutch-built Fort Leydsaamsheid Accommodation is in one of 16 six-kilometre road to Winneba lies a other goods before ‘market forces’ nation, it’s also pretty damn sweaty, cramped tro-tro might not plains to its south and forest to its here), and a gorgeous pool (Fort Patience). A further 30 two-star rooms with phone, TV and further 18 kilometres (11 miles) west initiated a move into human friendly, as you’ll be aware if be everyone’s idea of fun. Far better north, was established in 1890. The overlooking the valley. The open kilometres (19 miles) towards Cape air conditioning. You can hear the from the Fete/Senya Beraku turning. trafficking. you’ve spent a couple of days in terms of comfort, though slightly park runs a horticultural school and club house and restaurant above the Coast is Mankessim – worth a quick ocean from the rooms. There are Saltpond, Anomabu and Biriwa can A tour of the site today makes for soaking up the smiles. more pricey, are the buses that ply consists of ten lawns with more pool are lovely spots to watch the look for its particularly large discounts for long stays and all be found directly on the coastal a harrowing, but undeniably Trips Out of Town These two factors combined the routes between major centres. than 375 varying plant types, as clouds roll out in the morning, or posuban shrine. breakfast is included. road, with Saltpond roughly 50 salutary, visit. Thousands upon make Ghana a hugely inviting And to come to Ghana and restrict well as more than 100 acres of listen to the sounds of the bush in At Saltpond there’s an attractive Gomoa-Fetteh, off the Main Accra kilometres (31 miles) on from the thousands of West African men and place to travel around. It’s an yourself to Accra is to take just one natural forest with nature trails. It’s the evening. It’s all built on a hill, so beach and a striking shrine, as well to Winneba road (027 755 0480, Winneba turning, followed, less than women were imprisoned within the eminently manageable size for bite of the buffet – far better to tuck popular with bird and butterfly you’ll be working off the food from a as fine views from Fort Amsterdam, www.tillsbeachhotel.com). Double ten kilometres later, by Anomaba castle’s scratched dungeon walls – in exploration, being smaller than into the whole country. watchers, and it’s a great menu that includes lamb tagine, the first British fort to be built on the GH¢70-80. and Biriwa. truly horrific conditions – before the UK. The north, with its destination for picnics under the T-bone steak, paella and traditional Gold Coast and sitting a couple of passing the ‘Door of No Return’ and mud-sculpted buildings and heavy shade of 160-year-old kapok trees. Ghanaian food. There’s a spa and a kilometres from the town. White Sands Beach being shipped off to the Americas, Islamic influence, is completely Aburi Aburi Botanical Gardens, Aburi, tennis court too. Alternatively, stop off at Anomabu Resort & Spa Cape Coast the majority of them not surviving Trips Out of Town Trips different to coastal Ghana, while Akwiapim (024 877 2227). Open Aburi. Near Peduase Lodge, Kitase for Fort William, a sandstone church Those willing to splash some cash to reach their final destination. To the national parks that colour the Aburi is only an hour or two’s drive 8am-4pm Mon-Fri. Admission on St Johns Road Brekusu (026 960 and a collection of shrines. The for the millionaire treatment can Cape Coast might be the former establish a clearer understanding of countryside are high in potential from downtown Accra, but once GH¢3. 1541, www.lansdownaburi.com). nearby fishing village of Biriwa has stay at this deluxe private members’ capital city, but when held up the crushing reality of the period, for adventure. you head past the Tetteh Quarshie Villa $400 for two people. a stunning stretch of beach. club near Fetteh. Slide into the against Accra, it’s the very picture the 45-minute guided tour (included There’s a cluster of sights and Circle and Accra Mall, the city feels Ateba-Atwirebu Butterfly infinity pool, sample the top-notch of serenity. You’ll have to look in the ticket price) comes highly attractions west of Accra, among far away as you climb up into the Sanctuary Getting there Where to eat & stay cuisine and enjoy some of the best elsewhere for your endless traffic recommended. There’s also a them Cape Coast Castle, Kakum cooler and wetter hills. The biggest Just north of Kyebi is the home of Taxis or private cars are the best Big Milly’s Backyard service in Ghana. It’s exclusive jams. This isn’t to say it doesn’t feel museum on site. The Castle is now National Park, the almost attraction here is the Aburi Africa’s largest butterfly, the ‘Papillio ways to get to Aburi. Minibuses Those unwinding in Kokrobite can enough to require you to email lived in, but the atmosphere is more listed as a World Heritage Site, and overpoweringly colourful Elmina Botanical Gardens, although there Antimactus’, making the forest a (tro-tros) leave from Odawna station enjoy fresh and tasty meals at Big [email protected] before redolent of a coastal community gazing down today from its old and the twin city of Sekondi- are plenty of outdoor activities. must for any butterfly watchers. The near the Kwame Nkrumah Circle. Milly’s onsite restaurant. The menu even seeing prices. However, than a big, bad metropolis. ramparts at the late-afternoon

78 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2014/2015 79 Trips Out of Town 80 and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accrafor visitors Time US$25-55. Doubles www.mightyvictoryhotel.com). (04230135, E.30 A/3AboomClose accessandinternet. wheelchair a bar, gardens, aconference suite, isavailableservice too. There’s also anddinner–room lunch breakfast, TV andshower. serves Arestaurant are US$40anight.Allrooms have a while thosewithairconditioning US$25, goesdouble withfan for mid-range accommodation–a of thoseinsearch decent optionfor Hotelisa The MightyVictory Mighty VictoryHotel GH¢75-220. fromcom). Double GH¢75;chalets (042 91456,www.hansbotelghana. On road toKakum NationalPark GH¢6-18). courses andbar(main shop, restaurant family rooms. There’s alsoagift doubleand chalets, of mixture haven birdlife. You’ll for findawide offer, anditslocationmakes ita passable accommodationon of there’s but bar-restaurant), plenty its lake (andoccasionally its patrol thecrocodiles that for chiefly NationalPark. It’sKakum notable 10 minutesalongtheroad to liesaround This singularproperty Hans CottageBotel www.baobab-children-foundation.de). Commercial Street (0244723241, Coast. in Cape alsohasfivethe organisation rooms rooms here, cheap to thehandfulof Andinaddition own farm. organic many from its salads andfruits, tofu, bar withdishesof snack Ithas anadjoiningvegetariancloth. works andfine kente cosmetics, art and recycled goods, including eco-friendly, trade fair manner of all excellent littleshopstocking Children Foundation. There’s an theBaobab of arm fundraising the This littleplaceisthebasefor Baobab VegetarianRestaurant courses GH¢18-35. Next tocastle(0287290539).Main dishes.stir-fries andseafood coconutcurries, lengthy menuof views.diners good sea There’s a withseveral giving screens, areas bamboo andwidegreen platforms withdark-wood atmospheric spot It’sadjacent tothecastle. an Restaurant to toptheCastleBeach For it’s locationandambience, hard Castle BeachRestaurant (US$11). and Ghanaiancookery workshops inbatik-making(US$16) Global Mamas–alsooffers project fair-trade supports – which 530 467,US$16).Theorganisation (www.womeninprogress.org, 0244 workshops from Women inProgress anddancing half-day drumming theregular somewhere oneof totry itspast. by thehumancostof footballers, it’s hard nottobestirred and red-dust fishermen of hubbub Where tostay Where toeat On a lighter note, it’sOn alighternote, also otgeetr o hsscino this sectionof for term Portuguese have adopteditsnamefrom the African gold andisbelieved trade to inthe The town wasonceakey port handily laidoutbyMotherNature. key– industries –saltandfish Atlantic ontheother, Elminahadits one sideandthesealife-laden jaw-dropping tosee. fishmarket,particular, in is morning sounds andsmells–thefrenetic sights, little town offers awhirl of Thismasculine morning? a clear Ghana thanElmina’s on port fishing visionin Is there colourful amore Elmina Square area. Chapel Elmina, hopintoashared taxiinthe from getting back Coast. When ElminaandCape kilometres between Frequent enroute. bumps speed by umpteen slowed hours, two andthree between takes road from Thejourney Accra. should drive west alongthecoastal GH¢15. Thosewithprivate transport the RingRoad, costingaround from Accra’s mainSTCstationon Four Coast adaytoCape buses head US$60-80). Double (042 32570,www.sanaalodge.com). Health of Located neartheMinistry andconferenceparking facilities. secure fitnesscentre, centre, café,business shops, internet barandgrill, restaurant, pool, suites. There’s alsoaswimming cable TV. therooms are Four of with 29air-conditioned rooms and three-star, it’s option acomfortable Coast.Billedas hotel inCape This isprobably themostupmarket Sanaa Lodge Getting there With thesaltyBenya Lagoon on tro-tros drive thefew one of the quasi-military ‘companies’ ‘companies’ thequasi-military one of themdedicated to of shrines –each itsposuban Elmina isalsonoted for Netherlands EastIndiesArmy. the tofightfor Royalcentury inthe19th bytheDutch recruited than3,000Ghanaians on themore investigating.well worth Itfocuses remarkable Elmina-Java Museumis way. Elsewhere intown, the be able todislodge theminthesame noonewould toensure thefort built castle–they Portuguese-occupied successfully bombardedDutch the Hill. Itwasfrom thishilltopthatthe onStJago fort seventeenth-century you’llbuilding noticeisthe you canmake it. 5pm to6pm–adiverting sightif evening from each rehearsals around anddancing through drumming going alocalgroup castle sees adjacenttothe thecourtyard note, around upbeat GH¢10.Onamore atipof guides here willalsoaskfor interior. CoastCastle, Unlike Cape the dungeons andstairways of the canexplore photos, visitors you’re taking if plus alittleextra disquieting) placetotour. For GH¢8, (nottomentionhugelyfascinating a stillmakes but for structure, little resembles theoriginal had afew over facelifts theyears and Africa.It’s insub-Saharan building European it theoldestextant Itwasfoundedin1482,making Site. is registered asaWorld Heritage strong linkswiththeslave years and Coastequivalent, its Cape ithas Like key isElminaCastle. attraction it’s why. notalways tosee easy stakes, but Coastinthetourist Cape might play secondfiddletonearby GoldMines).Today it (The Coastof coast: DaCostadeelMinaOuro As elsewhere intheFante region, The otherskyline-dominating its From perspective, ahistorical

GH¢35-35 and there’s an emphasis on Smith. Thedishes range from andWill Williams, Jackson Jesse previous Serena diners include hasquiteaguestbook: Restaurant View the coast.TheOcean on high-end accommodationspots thetop widely considered oneof Elminaitself,is kilometres west of This hotel,foundjustthree Coconut GroveBeachResort GH¢165. Double www.coconutgrovehotelsghana.com). bridge (04291261, Elmina, by overlookingterrace thebridge. very good andcanbetaken ona accessand safes. Thefoodis internet conditioned rooms, showers, wireless harbour. Facilities air- include the and eightallhave views of great Coconut Grove Hotel. Rooms four, six owned asthe bythesamebusiness andisnow ahotel by theDutch, built was thefirst merchant house location.It withasuperb property The Bridge Houseisano-frills Bridge House to Elmina’s bridge. hugely important asthenamesuggests, isnext which, to behadattheBridge House, affordable, deliciousGhanaianfare town. Inthetown there’s centre, inElminatendtobefoundoutof eat thebestplacesto As ageneralrule, two andfive adults. there are between It costsGH¢20if andthefishmarket. takes inthefort and hours lasts about oneandahalf guided walkaround Elminathat www.ghanaecotours.com) offers a figures. life-size painted by concrete odditiessurrounded of generally takewhich theform young men– bybandsof formed Where toeat&stay Ghana Ecotours (208 8159369, (2088159369, Ghana Ecotours Stumble Inn

for lunch onthego!). lunch for –they’regrass-cutter around GH¢25 knowncane-rat, locally as freshly cooked savanna killedor and roadside vendors (selling plantations emerges aftermilesof Elmina,theTwin City west of hour inGhana.Situated an colourful themost circular market –oneof isaraucous which of centrepiece life inthecity, the hubof frantic milesinland,the brother acoupleof anditsnaughtybig restaurants, withhotelsand area beachside a areas: split intotwo separate known asthetriplets. Takoradi is City. Inreality, theyshouldbe are together known astheTwin Sekondi-Takoradi The two towns of Sekondi Takoradi- tro-tros andshared taxis. Coastbyfrequent connected toCape the mainTakoradi-Accra road. Itis Elmina islocatedtwo kilometres off GH¢345-400. com). Double 161 4812,www.elminabayresort. By CoconutGrove Beach Resort (054 it thebestbetaround Elmina. making andarestaurant, also apool accessisexcellent.There’sand beach DSTV, Wi-Fi, fridges andair-con, and brightstyle. Allhave views, sea guests, notable theircleanliness for There are 26rooms available for Resort. confused withElminaBeach Elmina Bay nottobe Resort, new town liesthesecluded out of minutes’drive farther A coupleof Elmina BayResort bed GH¢12. dorm roomsDouble GH¢55,chalet GH¢65, 2733, www.stumbleinnghana.com). Next toElminaBayResort (054146 budget option. aswell. Areasonablerestaurant There’s alovely littlebarand hasitscharms. although very basic, from sustainable materialsand, isbuilt the stars. Thewholeproperty showers,including are outsideunder mosquito nets).Ensuitebathrooms, (with rondavels dormitories or Accommodationisinlittle Resort. toElminaBayElmina, very close This isacutelittleplaceoutside Stumble Inn GH¢425,suiteGH¢525. Double coconutgrovehotelsghana.com). Elmina, Elmina(04291213,www. Street,Mbofra Bantuma- Akyinim WiFi facilities. conditioning, showers, TVand units andsuites. Allrooms have air There are several beach. family of as well asaccesstoadelightfulstrip a swimmingandtenniscourts, pool course, There’spond. an18-holegolf interestingmore note–acrocodile and–onaslightly Accra outside of Ghana’s largest conference facility Thehotelisalsohometo seafood. How togetthere Tadi, asthecityisgenerally

eidrn ra fgoods are of bewildering array coconut-tops anda vendors lopoff unloaded, machete-wielding yams are fullof Lorries noise. and colour frenzy of disorientating town isMarket a Circle, of heart couldn’t bestarker. At the very Takoradi commercial centre of andtheserene beachfront Road, 0312027085). (Beach Book through CaptainHook’s boatscanbehired. sport-fishing also from here thatcoastand anduncrowded. isclean It’s itself Thebeach strong undercurrent. as allalongthecoast,there’s a People doswimhere but, inthesea area. around thequietbeachfront mostlygood hotelsandrestaurants, isthatthere which are some of and otheroilworkers, theupside engineers businesspeople, here tendtobe visitors estimate). Most (445,205 – city populous most fourth being Ghana’s Takoradi, despiteit heritage in little cultural Town’, there’s but known as‘European station inwhatisstill andacolonialrailway fort Dutch are bigplans. there but just comingtofruition, oilworkers are only throughput of anendless Predictions of fully-fledged boomtown. timeasa for itself bracing inTakoradi industry service is isongoing andthe exploration thecoasthere. Large-scale be off lightoilare estimatedto of barrels billion Uptothree itsoiltrade. of communitybecause international the into theconsciousnessof called collectively, haslately entered Planter’s Planter’s Lodge The difference the between For Sekondi hasa sightseers, 2012 are the forts most set up are thefortsmostsetup for visitors. Often guides for visitors.Oftenguides Cape Coast and Elmina Cape CoastandElmina are available, but ask are available,butask before what the likely before whatthelikely Seeing theforts Top tip! tip willbe. 5am-late daily. [email protected]). Open Takoradi (0312032777/23808, 3 Longshore ChapelHill, Close, Saturdays. with karaokeonFridays and tolookout, throughout theweek option. Various events are held reasonable pricesmake itagreat foodand customer service, andtheotherdelioptions. The beef good are itsprimeSouthAfrican dishes–particularly international Ghanaianand selection of fixtures.a Onthemenuis sports international showing major screens andlocals. Ithaslargeboth expats Restaurant, renowned itsRestaurant, for Sea optionisNorth A cheaper North SeaRestaurant nautically-themed pub,withacentral else would itbecalled?)isapopular connected Hemingway’s Bar(what door, Next some seafood. the Captain Hook’s focuses on pizza, with theGerman-run Popular withexpats, Captain Hook’s fishandmeat. peppers, hawk vegetables, colourful chilli exclusively female salesforce analmost meanwhile, centre, intothe and colanders. Further sunglasses, driedfish,flipflops onhead-tops: past paraded Where toeat international bar popular with with barpopular international Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 OutAccrafor visitors Time bar propped up by regulars upbyregulars bar propped Sports Bar & Grill, an Bar&Grill,an Sports night after night. night afternight. Stellar Lodge isChamps Beach Road (03120 Located adjacent to Located adjacentto Bar &Restaurant 27085). Main 27085). Main Champs Sports courses GH¢30-60. Credit MC,V. Open 6pm-1am. our choice. A swimming beach is is Aswimming beach choice. our would be which Guinea, of the Gulf have views over and arocky beach Three comfortable. little dated,but facilities. Therooms are basicanda satellite TV, andcoffee andtea radio bar, andathatched pool withair-con, aroundcomprises chalets alarge option. Theaccommodation A moderatelypricedwaterside Africa BeachHotel 11pm daily. courses GH¢25-40.Open10am- northsea-restaurant.com). Main Road (03129131www.Axim 6-7pm every Friday. with half-pricedrinksbetween ontapandahappy hour beers dishes. Itoffers someimported riceandotherGhanaian jollof pizza. There’s with alsochicken as gratin, well as fish grouper lobsterprovençalone) include and (yes, eatery another German-owned Thedishesatthis seafood. Where tostay Elmina Bay Resort

81 Trips Out of Town of Out Trips Trips Out of Town 82 and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accrafor visitors Time GH¢1,049. GH¢681; suite com). Double (031 2022233,www.planterslodge. non-residents isGH¢40. for relaxing, hotels. Accesstothepool Ghana’s best,andmost is oneof vinegar. Alltold,this and raspberry oil withpistachio andbeef sauce, prawns inafusion peppered black good, assmoked withdishessuch and wireless. is Therestaurant and allrooms have TVs flatscreen suitesare modern, bungalow more thesix from themainhouse, have walk beds. Ashort four-poster suites, continuethistheme–some The rooms, theexecutive especially flyingofficers inthe1930s.lodge for life asaRoyalits past AirForce athrowback to antique furniture, house isfilledwithheavy dark lawns, thecolonial-stylegreen in Takoradi. Setamongacres of thefinest residences This isoneof Planter’s Lodge ezilebay.com). US$93. Double Ezile Bay(0243174860,http:// There’s too. abarandrestaurant andafamilyroom. dormitory andmosquitonets–aswellfans asa with equipped –each bungalows Takoradi. Ithas five basic Sekondi- west of beach stretch of little issetonabeautiful This resort Ezile Bay Contact for rates. www.atlantichoteltakoradi.com). (028 5268420, Beach Road Area, DTDTakoradi thehotel. sitsinfront of course Aprivate golf function space. and event plusasmaller suite, There’sterrace. avast conference from the Guinea intheBaybuilt of therigsbeing – you oneof cansee throughworkers thetown whopass themanywill catermainly for oil inTakoradi,Like much thehotel some flavourful Ghanaiancuisine. large buffet totry withthechance View &Baroffers Restaurant a lovely ThemainOcean afternoon. a and you have themakingsof CanoeBar platter from theoutdoor hot day. Combineitwithaseafood – aridiculously inviting sightona highlight, however, area isthepool paths.The among theleafy with single andfamilyrooms views. There are also12chalets, onewithocean –askfor appointed andwell- arebuilding modern Therooms inthemain experience. andoffersin Accra, asimilar shares owners withtheHoliday Inn impressive-looking It complex. May itwasalready 2014,but an rooms were whenwe visitedin open the200 of Takoradi. Abouthalf overlooking around theocean Hotel, ahuge whitemonolith There’s nomissingtheAtlantic NE for details. www.africabeachhotel.com). Contact Beach Road (0312025148, course. golf nearby, 18-hole kept asisapoorly W Atlantic Hotel

momentum. Fly Starbow (024 500 up picks asthe oilbusiness increase and thenumberwill certainly has regular direct flightstoAccra Takoradi it airbase, isthemilitary in Takoradi. (seep81) Restaurant Sea the North to stationandarrive next STC bus Buses leave from Accra themain takesservice hours. around four severalAccra timesaday. Thequick travelbuses Takoradi between and STC andVIP(www.vipbusgh.com) GH¢310 (inc. breakfast). www.stellarlodge.com). Double Takoradi (0312032777/26998, 3 Longshore ChapelHill, Close, swimming pool. anda agym room service, 24-hour reception, 24-hour service, access. There’s alsoalaundry safes wireless andsecure internet satelliteTV,plasma screens, aircon, have apartments) HD equipped the Lodge itself,plus22new fully the52ensuiterooms (30in of Each minutesfrom theairport. couple of isonly complex a and apartment Run bytheStellarGroup, thislodge Stellar Lodge&Apartments GH¢514-685. Double 20 22072,www.raybowhotel.com). Beach Road Residential Area (031 area. seating bar,open-sided andathatched TV. There’s toan next asmallpool rooms have wireless andsatellite free All and villaapartments. chalets accessories. There are alsolarger andcolonial-style furniture wicker The rooms are tiledandcool,with Nyarko, hangsaround thecomplex. Kobina inparticular best artists, Ghana’s from someof art Modern large Hotel. Raybow International optioninTadiAnother superb isthe Raybow InternationalHotel Getting there Although the only airport in in Although theonly airport

from Accra. antrakair.com) also hasdaily flights Air(0302782814,www.Antrak aircraft. It’s a35-minuteflight. 110 insmallEmbraer Airport Takoradi from Kotoka International 0000, www.flystarbow.com)to flies miles) of protected rainforest play protected rainforest miles) of Its 607square kilometres (234square kakumnationalpark.info, 8am-4pm). the coast(03321302265,www. of heat tothebustling alternative offersrainforest afresh green semi-deciduous verdant sliceof NationalPark’sCoast, Kakum anhour’s drive from Cape Half National Park Kakum with pricesonenquiry. Bookings are taken viathewebsite atKokrobite. inAccra second school a year thatMrBrightsisopening last successful sinceitsinception so provided. hasbeen Theschool children, with boards andequipment advanced are asare welcome, be inbetterhands. to Beginners can’t surfers and lifeguard, meaning coach He’s surf trained aformally hislife). Ghana (thesecondlove of in school uphisown surf and open ago, hedecidedtotake theplunge officeseveralthe RipCurl head years to surfing. Afterleaving atopjobat (aka MrBrights)hasdevoted hislife to 6pm).BritishnationalBrett Davies mrbrights.com). everyday Open: 6am (www. BusuaBeach Resort, Pouch Beach (Kangaroo School beyond Takoradi isMrBrights Surf The onevery good togo reason Takoradi Beyond Coast stop. to Jukwafrom anyheading Cape Coast. Jumponatro-tro Cape roughly 33 kilometres (20 miles) from are foundalongtheJukwaroad, National Park toKakum Signposts suites, private rooms anddorms. guesthouses, provides of anarray 12 kilometres –it from Kakum kilometres Coastand fromfour Cape Hans Cottage Botel(seep80),located itself.the park Anotheroptionis there’sarea, alsoaccommodationin Coastandthesurrounding Cape visitedinadaycan beeasily from thepark dishes. While international localand offers arangeof NationalPark’sKakum onsitecafé Alliance. Artists atthe thatalsohasabranch charity by theexcellentAidtoArtisans Conservation Trust andalsosellsart administered bytheGhanaHeritage café, andadecentgiftshop a fauna, and ontheflora information centre with visitors’ informative but There’swildlife willbeseen. asimple althoughit’sthe park, unlikely much vertiginous, views of spectacular, if offeringviewing platforms wooden walkway hasvarious floor,the forest the350-metre-long GH¢40). Elevated 40metres above (Ghanaian GH¢14,non-Ghanaian birdcalls, thecanopy walk try of toasoundtrack the greenery For at thosecontent withgazing campingtrip.on anorganised two unlessyou’re anight spending or anything thanamillipede more seeing there’sflora, chance of little intheforest’s deep wildlife buried theelusive However, of withmuch monkey. of and various species leopards giant hogs,flyingsquirrels, elephants, residents, forest including wild of home toanassortment Getting there Where toeatandstay Atlantic Hotel submerged 300years, marking for hasstoodhalf- Sword, which museum istheOkomfo Anokye item.Closeto the they hadthereal over tofooltheBritishintothinking fake golden stoolthatwashanded isthe episodes. Amongitsexhibits thisandother overviewhistorical of MuseumgivesII Jubilee agood recently as1874–andthePrempeh as totheground city wasburnt and early Asantetribesmen–the Britishcolonialists battles between lengthy wasthe sceneof itself theculture’sexplore roots. Kumasi thebestwaythe region isbyfar to country’s andavisitto population, the afifthof Ghana,or modern seven millionethnicAsantein remainsculture today. know about how relevant theAsante president, tellsyou allyou to need thanthe figure important more considered bymany localstobea only stilllives in Kumasi, is but Osei Tutu, thathenot andthefact is actually adirect descendantof first Asanteking leader. Thecurrent subsequently becametherealm’s OseiTutu, who the lapof descended from heaven andfell into It’s saidthatagolden stool kingdom –theAsantein1670s. banded intoasingle regional localtribeswas confederation of ever sincealoose heart beating haveand itssurrounds provided its andKumasiplace innationallife, occupiesaspecial Asante culture simple street-level dynamism. absorbing placetobe. It’s noiseandtrade. life, ahugely ongoing flow of Kumasi akindof makingcentral neighbourhoods, and streets surrounding sospillsoutintothe borders, butter. fish andfootballsshea hensandyams, anddrums, pans andunderwear,and shoes,beads almost everything imaginable: soap ineveryand curves direction, selling lanes andcovered alleyways spreads open of Amaze endlessly colourful. traders. and Itishot,raucous some10,000 work for a placeof thecityandprovides very centre of occupies around 12hectares inthe itskindinWest Africa.It largest of Market, oftendescribedasthe Kejetia gargantuan sprawl of differences thetwo cities. between simplybut tosay thatthere are huge course, That’s of Accra, nottodecry in many ways intoxicating. more energised,than thecapital,more and understatement. It’s crowded more Kumasi ashecticisan Ghana’s secondcity. To describe to five north andhead hours bus pumping enough–hoponanSTC isn’theart- Accra the whirl of assaulted atthesametime–andif like tohave allfive sensesforcefully you’ve ever wondered whatit’sIf Kumasi It’s estimatedthatthere are to close But thecityisabout than more far hashazy The market itself toKumasiCentral isthe Rd, 032 20 30 355) for a laid-back alaid-back Rd, 0322030355) for Hudson toThe Dish(6thSt,off head 11 Rd,Adum),or town (Permpeh of Food, alocalfavourite inthecentre are BiteFast dishedupattheQuick Chinesefood Substantial platefulsof from year toyear, thisistheplace. shows justhow Ghana’s evolving away from andthecoastthat Accra there’s thecountry. anywhere If of copious influencesfrom otherareas proud draws Asanteheritage, in makes itsomewhere allits that,for thanthat,also more but, itinerary awider of thecityaspart include travellers, to thismakes iteasy well connectedtoGhana’s For north. there eventually – andit’s similarly main roads inthesouthwindup hub–almostall transport a busy aboutmore Kente anditsproduction. latter beingagood placetolearn Mother –andAdanwomase, the a legendarily brave AsanteQueen Yaa Asantewaa, of as thebirthplace Ejisu– renowned Effiduase, include travellers cultural for potential there’sto spare, toinvestigate. much you have afew days communities. If and authenticKente-weaving galleries they sound)toAsanteart fetish as shrines(every bitascurious range from Obosomfie traditional from thecityitself. Attractions asday-trips toincorporate possible them sites tovisit,almostallof cultural largemeans numbers of banner inthe17thcentury. This brought together undertheAsante states andsettlementsinitially the the cityare stillhometomany of around landscapes green The fertile bycomparison. peace is ahaven of it surrounding the countryside pace, along atabreathless runs the cityitself different faces. While region hasvarious theKumasi course, the country, of king? get tocallinona all, how oftendoyou recommended. After ishighly experience welcome toattend,andthe fantasy. are Visitors general airof umbrellas, rainbowrobes anda elaborate dancing, ceremonial displays, rituals. drumming Expect its stillevidentfact insomeof a wasattimesenormous, its wealth regrettably, several slave routes –so goldmines more –and,rather theAsantecontrolledpomp, several lifestyle Inits atitsmosttraditional. itshowcases theAsante his people, royal homage from toaccept palace the of thegates kingopens current Held every sixthSunday, whenthe Kumasi tocoincidewiththeAdae. home though,timeyour tripto something totellthefolksback said tohave first appeared. where thegolden the spot stoolis Where toeat Kumasi’s locationmakes central it Towns andvillages withgood Like of allareas you really wanttoexperience If Mole National Park where Mole NationalParkwhere notably elephants – is in notably elephants–isin wildlife in Ghana – most wildlife inGhana–most The best place to see The bestplacetosee you can get up close you cangetupclose to the animals. to theanimals. Top tip! Wildlife US$55-65. Bosomtwe, 0322020 164). Double Abono, nearKuntanase, Lake rides andvillage tours. mountains. boat Activities include thenearby from thefootof stylish rooms overlooking thelake Built in2000,ithas20simpleand This isarelaxing lakeside stopover. Resort Hotel Lake BosomtweParadise GH¢551-848. Double www.goldentulipkumasicity.com). Rain Tree Street (0322083777, the airport. It’s about a20-minutedrive from children. onefor including pools, shop, acasinoandtwo lovely a tenniscourts, and restaurant, abar room. include Otherfacilities andliving withakitchenette each There are alsoseveral apartments, room cantake 450delegates. –themainmeeting function spaces themany whomake useof visitors, withconferencecity andpopular hotelinthe international-standard Hotel. It’s theonly truly 160-room GoldenTulipelegant Kumasi’s districtisthe business of Set intropical gardens inthecentre Golden TulipHotel GH¢40-60. Maincourses theviewbarandgrill). 668880, facebook.com/ Melcom Road, Ahowdjo (0244 Top Akuafo Floor Adamfo, 39 enjoy onarooftop terrace. menu–allto bands, DJsandacigar view.leafy There live are plansfor hardwood floors. And yes, there’sa Base ShellChairs anddark designed too–thinkEamesEiffel isbrilliantly particular. Thespace It’s menuthatwouldn’t amodern andgarlic. French withchilli beans and astriple-cooked chips such allserved alongsidesides steaks, of and rosemary? There’s alsoavariety mash,redcurrant butternut breast, slow-cooked fowl leg, guinea roasted bacon withspicedapple?Or croquettes, cabbage braised and belly,crispy pork &squeak bubble Mains are delectable. How about an inspired Anglo-French menu. alonetogoreason toKumasi, with The View Bar&Grillisalmost NE authenticdishes. selection of offers NationalCulture Centre for a TheKentishfare. atthe Kitchen atmosphere andreasonably priced Where tostay W Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 OutAccrafor visitors Time some great French whitesin some great placeinan outof seem The View has agood variety, with upmarket London excellent. The wine list excellent. Thewinelist gastropub. Inthe relish. are Cocktails lounge you’ll find and homemade and homemade small bitesincluding risotto croquettes and ginger and garlic ribs, chilli, spare pork dry-fried surrounding landscape make for make for landscape surrounding accommodation option. 22023) isthesmartest Hohoe itself,theTaste Lodge (0935 fields make a refreshing sight.In region’s hillsandfertile softgreen the thenorth, dusty aridityof the thecoastor of After theheat also where theWliFalls are situated. Lake Volta –it’s of east thearea for hub constitutes themaintransport Hohoe The relaxed town of East ofLakeVolta around 24hours. from Akosomboweek, toYeji in thelake twicea thelengthof runs can betaken ontheYapei that Queen across theVolta, whilelonger trips Akosombo, canbetaken ferries asbird-watching.such From from alsooffering Accra, activities hours Akosombo are acoupleof thelake andthetown of of The heel watersports. multitude of ascanoetripsanda activities such intheregion, with taking off travellers too. Adventure is tourism there budget are optionsfor destination,but become apopular (seep84)willnodoubt Resort new andimpressive Royal Senchi escapingthecity.visitors Thevery destinationfor weekend a popular history.natural Ghana’s of essential part it’s feat engineering alsonow an well asbeingaremarkable Africa,andas modern wonder of has onlysince1965.It’s existed a kilometres (3,275square miles)and electricity. Itcovers 8,502square with thecountry of supplying much water ontheplanet,Lake Volta, holds inthelargest body artificial of where thetown’s dampartly famous gateway totheVolta Region and thereserve. of insomeareas canalsobeseen time, the of ago bytherulers century were outoverpeople forced a wasabandonedwhich afterits Shaicommunity, theformer of in hillsaround Thevestiges thearea. Se Yo andObonuTem caves, located are reptiles. the Nearby of 13 species mammaland 31 different of species bird, of 175species home toatleast savannah thatmake are upthepark city. The52square kilometres of wildlifethe nearest reserve tothe is theShaiHillsResource Reserve, 31 miles(50kilometres) from Accra, Temaroute between andAkosombo, tohillranges. Onthe slowly turning thesavannah, outcrops jutoutof adventure about theland.Rocky become quieterandthere’s ahintof greener, thevillages land turns Tema, the of theindustrialzone pass and Accra outof Once you east head Highlands & Eastern Volta Region The smallervillages in the Lake Volta is endof The southern Farther alongisAkosombo, the

83 Trips Out of Town of Out Trips Trips Out of Town 84 and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accrafor visitors Time clawless otters, crocodiles andthe monkeys,colobus antelopes, lake. Little-visited, it’s home to the of woodland, aswell asparts kilometres (1,342square miles)of compromises 3,478square Lake Volta, of shores western NationalPark, onthe region. Digya around Lake Volta andtheVolta Ghana’s highestmountain. 2900ft (880m),it’s technically fauna ontheway and up. flora At to thetop. thelocal explain Rangers mountain andoffers guidedclimbs the small campsiteatthebaseof ghanawildlifesociety.org) a runs destination. superb makes MountAfadjato a capacity cycling trips,inwhich independent torent mountainbikespossible for hiking andcycling tours. It’s also the region andoffer various guided couple–know alotaboutGerman location. Thehospitable owners –a itsviewsrecommended and for [email protected]) comes Lodge (289547459,bernhard. stay by, close theWliWaterfall itself, make ithugely rewarding. down tothevillages andthepool views coupled withstupendous flowers andinsects, shimmer of exhausting. Fortunately, arainbow humidity canmake thehike andnarrow,way upissteep andthe asaresult. intimate andsolitary The more but strenuousmore toreach, is thewaterfall of part the upper alike.Incontrast, locals andtourists for spot developed intoapopular through andhas theforest, path following asmooth,criss-crossing by canbevisitedeasily the falls – Ghana’s of highest.Thelower part isitswaterfall Its mainattraction totheTogo next Hohoe, border. of village 17kilometres (11miles)east andcharming apeaceful Afegame, theregion isWli- highlights of the captivating day-trips, andoneof Aqua Aqua Safari Resort There are three national parks There nationalparks are three The GhanaWildlife Society(www. you’re somewhere lookingfor to If The wholeriver environment gives a Ghanabyboat. of areas beautiful themost oneof exploring hours alazycouple of option tospend allisthe too.arranged Bestof canbe excursions Game-fishing thepontoons. oneof or play around inonajet-ski waterto also alotof workshops –there’s and basket-weaving boat-building for totheislands tours owners offer guided forward-thinking water. The inthe clam-diving crab-fishing and island-dwelling folk bar you Ghana’s cansee and From restaurant anopen-sided from soupstream theocean. mile or theRiver Volta, a of to theestuary out lovely out.Itfaces opens resort afrankly once through thedoors best describedas‘unpromising’, WithAqua Safari. thedrive there We were taken rather aback by NE 543 635).Rooms GH¢100. Akosombo, onroad todam(0244 overlooking ariver andhills. andtheresort’srestaurant location theoutsidebarand mango trees, are attractions thegarden filledwith bathroom, thereal TV),but rooms are very basic(ensuite Theten Accra. Milly’s to thewest of asBig such nothing like resorts despitebeing enoughplace, pleasant GH¢100, it’s adecentboltholeand Withalternative. nightsfrom isagood budget basic resort accommodation intheregion, this (below) thebest isbyfar theRoyal While Resort Senchi Adi LakeResort here. extinct rhinoceros black –now means park’s Digya emblem,themanatee. Where tostay W Aqua SafariResort Accra have a hotel shuttle Accra haveahotelshuttle Otherwise they should be Otherwise theyshouldbe Some resorts outside of Some resortsoutsideof – checkwhenbooking. able to arrange able toarrange Top tip! Transport transport. transport. a small shop and a business centre. centre. a smallshopand business There’s andJacuzzi. pool alsoaspa, bars, oneoverlooking aninviting refreshingly You’ll keen. findtwo going is on,andtheservice menu –there’s somequalitycooking thatcanbepulledback with screens and behindthemare large baths, overlooked byanyone Above else. balconiesnot or onto smallterraces give which large face doors, patio the rooms are quirky too. Thebeds over river, theoftenmirror-flat and All84rooms andsuiteslook resort. River that’s the for thefocalpoint it’s but dominate thescene, theVolta Wood, concrete andpolished thatch driveunder two hours’ from Accra. This isadelightfully relaxing place NE rates. aquasafariresort.com). Contactfor Ada Foah (0540110190,www. frombreak Accra Highly arelaxing recommended for amongotheradditions. juice shack, barand abeach is adiningarea, people. upto60 and aconference for area you adipintheriver, don’tfancy kitchens. There’s if alsoasmallpool impressive and commonareas six large allhave chalets sizable and away. twostark toAccra hours contrast life; a relaxing andslowerof pace Still being built on a nearby island island onanearby Still beingbuilt The rooms are and well-appointed, W more international à la carte àlacarte international more you wantasoakwith a if The RoyalSenchi the evenings alongsidea view. room Each alsohas heavy buffet (GH¢60)in a shower andtheusual serves aGhanaian- amenities aswell as main restaurant main restaurant – get this–areliable lounge areas. The also have large Suites (smiley face). connection internet Saam Hotel(07124200). bought early. InTamale pre-trip, try inadvancechecked andtickets timesshouldbe although departure leave MoleMotel, for daily heading Ghana. OrangeMetro Massbuses calm andamenable town innorthern Mole NationalPark isTamale, a The mainhubfrom toreach which directly underthestars. themudhouses, be foundontopof accommodationcanalso season, dry basic overnight stays the and,during provide Somefamilies performances. anddance drum their traditional the communitywillalsoshowcase day inadvance (viathePark office), requested a and thevillage If chief. with weavers, localmedicinemen encounters walks –theseinclude offering canoetripsand village isafriendly ‘eco-village’ Mognori Two from themotelbybike, hours sustainability, and relation topoaching scientific study,particularly in placefor become animportant and oneconsequenceisthatit’s bymany asapositiveseen thing, Thisis infrastructure. tourist way of there’s office, park littleinthe very Mole Park. Despitethehoteland intothe deeper much 4x4tours or tendtobethemaindraw), elephants walks(onwhich localised game for point acts asthemeeting tothe motel officenext Thepark and severalspecies. antelope buffalo,including hippos warthogs, inthepark, mammal species swimming There are pool. 93 visitstothehotel’ssneaky topay elephants uncommon for dinner. it’s season, Inthedry not or lunch breakfast, of another part becomesjust monkey-watching it’swaterhole, somewhere where andlookingoutoverescarpment a an Situatedontheedgepark. of 756 4444),theonly hotelinsidethe the placetostay isMoleMotel(027 sanctuary. For purposes, practical Park isGhana’s biggest wildlife Mole (pronounced Mo-lay) National Park Mole National Rooms from $55double. mountainparadise-biakpa.com). Avatime (0244166226,www. Old Govt.Rest House, Biakpa, campsite. there’s but rooms ineach, alsoa two withseveral basicbungalows There areMount GemiRange. only Ghana’s the near highestpeaks, including. was worth Itsitsamong good heard thingsanddecidedit we’ve but this mountainresort, we haven’tUnfortunately yet visited Mountain ParadiseBiakpa Standard GH¢660,suitesGH¢1600. 409 170,www.theroyalsenchi.com). Senchi FerryRoad, Senchi (0303 from it’s Accra, anexcellentoption. getaways leisure conferences, for but comesfrom thetrade of Much Directory Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accra for visitors 86 Time Directory Antrak Air0307015300/1, 0307 African airlines www.virgin-atlantic.com Atlantic0302215200, Virgin www.turkishairlines.com Turkish 0302765880, Airlines, www.mea.com.lb 0302230867, Middle EastAirlines, www.lufthansa.com Lufthansa 0302243893, KLM 0302214747,www.klm.com www.emirates.com Emirates 0302213131, www.delta.com Delta AirLines0302213111, www.britishairways.com Airways0302214996/7, British Air France www.airfrance.com www.alitalia.com 0302775865, Alitalia International airlines plenty oftime. going throughsecurity,sogowith can behugeleavingthecountry be suretohaveitinorder.Queues Certificates beforeimmigration,so carefully checkingYellowFever departure. Theyhavestarted a visainyourhomecountrybefore stamp providingyouhavearranged will begivena60-dayvisitor’s take sometimeonthewayin.You you’ assertively.Immigrationcan If yougethassled,say‘nothank blatant touristslikeantstoapicnic. and taxidriversdescendingupon porters tryingtogetyourcustom can stillbeaheadache,withkeen renovations inrecentyears,butit AccraAirporthasundergone www.gacl.com.gh. visit call0302776171or information thecitycentre. For flight of issixmiles(10km)north The airport Kotoka InternationalAirport Georgia. Airport, andalsofromAtlanta, New York’sJFKInternational Delta fliesdirecttoAccrafrom most recentlyTurkish.IntheUSA, and LufthansafromFrankfurt, Alitalia, whichfliesfromRome, European departuresinclude Accra viaAmsterdam,andother KLM andAirFrancebothflyto flight fromLondonHeathrow. British Airwaysrunsadailydirect Accra isaseven-hourjourney. A directflightfromLondonto andleavingArriving around Getting By air

mean central Tema central mean Station. drivers shouldunderstand thatto ‘Accra’, your finger point up, or you shout If Circle. Nkrumah ground for pointed tothe finger as makingacircle withtheindex when flaggingdown atro tro , such Localsusehandsignals 37 Circle. Tema Circle and Station,Nkrumah able tohelp. any waitingwillbe other people itisnotonasign.But route if hollers outthedestinationand you are not usedtothem.Aguy are pretty tounderstand if tricky However,to theairport. theroutes Makola Market toOsu;andCircle Kokomlemle; 37Circle toOsu; Ave;Nkrumah Tudu stationto office via post to thecentral Circle toOsu viaRingRoad; Circle travellersUseful routes for are shared minivan withasetroute. get around istohoponatro tro , a onewayPerilous pedestrians, to for citycentre Accra isahecticone. buses. of fleet despiteamodern Facebook page, canonly manage a currently (0248323667)that service bus isV.I.P. Theonly competition to get around. totake them soitispossible centre, usually have stopswithinthecity Thesebuses those going east. Makola Market serves endof north station, whileTudu stationatthe from Circle Obetsebi-Lamptey leave west andnorth Buses heading regularly andare tourists. safe for run are comfortable, Corporation), (StateTransportation buses Intercity known buses, asSTC Public transport Dakar andAbuja. planned for Monrovia, Freetown, Tamale andLagos. routes New are fliestoflyafricaworld.com) Kumasi, World (0242438888,www. Airline carrier, new Africa Sunyani. The Kumasi, Tamale, Takoradi and www.antrakair.com) Accra, serves (0307 015300/1,0307025300, Tamale andTakoradi. Antrak Air flystarbow.com)links Accra, Kumasi, Starbow (0245000000,www. Domestic flights 676/7/8, www.flysaa.com Airways0302783 South African www.ethiopianairlines.com 664856/7/8, 0302 Ethiopian Airlines 025300, www.antrakair.com By tro By bus The maintro tro stopsare at

conferences occasions. andspecial ups, pick airport cars for eurostarlimos.com) provide luxury Residential, 0302736161,http:// Airport Street, (30 Senchi GlobalLimosine asEuroStar such with alower Companies back price. walk away, theywilloftencome you apricefirst. If toagree sure taxis,be Likeexpensive. normal air-conditioning, theyare but more with carriers) people nice cars (or them.Theyoften use working for Addo(0246480676). Joseph reliable driver we useregularly is belt.A aseat for Check transport. hazards modesof thanlegitimate likesome taxiswilllookmore health meters. It’s mentioningthat worth asdriversbeforehand, don’tuse constant beeping. – get anothertaxi.There are plenty or just befirm, but within Accra, journeys for shouldn’t happen on withGH¢20+rideswhich around it GH¢10-15.Somewilltry new Mostrideswillcost toAccra. people undoubtedly thebestbetfor Taxis are equally plentiful,andare Taxis www.europcar.com Ridge, 0302665544, 12th floor, Heritage Tower, West Europcar 0302 761752,www.avisghana.com 199 SoulaLoop, Labone, Accra Avis insurance. andinternational de passage’ Ghana requireinto a‘carnet vehicles is required. Drivers bringing driving licence international current a left-handdrive anda country around GH¢15-20anhour. Ghanais your stay. topay Expect length of will drive you theday around for or driverrecommend who atrusted hotels willalsobeable to hotels willhave anagent too. All agents around thecity. Allmajor and have anofficeintheairport, are hereregular suspects andmost want tobrave theroads. Allthe downtown.most areas grinds toahaltin traffic afternoon), and4-7pminthe morning 6amand8aminthe (between wins. hour Saying that, atrush andwhoever‘chicken’ hasthewits, function ononehugeof game Accra’s to roads Itseems are chaotic. Driving Most hotelswillhave taxidrivers theprice Most importantly, agree Cars canstillbehired, shouldyou as you will noticefrom the

http://travel.state.gov USA http://foreign affairs.gov.ie Republic ofIreland www.voyage.gc.ca Canada www.fco.gov.uk/travel UK www.safetravel.govt.nz New Zealand www.smartraveller.gov.au Australia advice forwould-betravellers. websites packedwithuseful foreign affairs.Mostofthemhave government’s departmentof and customs–contactyourhome security, healthissues,locallaws the latestnewsonsafetyand to aspecificcountry–including For up-to-dateinformationontravel following withoutpayingimport toGhanacanbring inthe Visitors Customs 16;smoking18. 18; sex Buying/drinking alcohol18;driving Age restrictions driver willuse. landmarks – these we have madeuseof identifying locations. Inthisguide unlikely) are theusualway of Relationships tolandmarks (some that addresses are difficulttodefine. have probably noticedinthisguide Addresses. Tricky Asyou one. will Addresses Resources pavements. of here. There’sis important alsoalack Lookingdown atyour feet the earth. todescendinthecentre of seem holesthat drainageandpot open are theimmediatehazards as such city towanderaround onfoot.There friendly isn’taparticularly Accra Walking latest officialadvice Where tofindthe TRAVEL ADVICE this iswhatyour taxi many leave alottobedesired. although thewireless network in hotels willhave acomputertouse, andusually fairly All cheap fast. andtheyare cafésinAccra internet in Africa.There isanabundance of Ghana isthebestconnectedcountry Internet Fri. 9am-3pm 9am-4.30pm Mon-Thur; ghana.nlembassy.org/). Open Interchange (0302214350,http:// 89 Liberation Adjei, Road, Ako The NetherlandsEmbassay 7am-1pm Fri. Open 7am-4pmMon-Thur; (0302 211000,www.accra.diplo.de). 6 Ridge Street, NorthRidge Consulate German Embassyand org). Open8.30am-noonMon-Thur. (0302 214550,www.ambafrance-gh. Liberation avenue 12th Road, off Consulate French Embassyand 7.30am-1pm Fri. Open 7.30am-4pmMon-Thur; 521, www.canadainternational.gc.ca). 42 IndependenceAvenue (0302211 Canadian HighCommission 7.30am-1pm Fri. 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Thur; ukinghana.fco.gov.uk/en). Open Avenue (0302221665,www. Osu Link,AbdulGamelNasser British HighCommission 8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri. ghana.embassy.gov.au). Open Cantonments (0302216400,www. 2, SecondRangoon Close, Australian HighCommission noon Fri. 7.30am- 7.30am-5pm Mon-Thur; usembassy.state.gov). Open Cantonments (0302741150,www. No 24,Fourth Circular Road, American Embassy consulates Embassies and will have madeagood friend. your tripyou price andbytheendof you your entire for stay. Negotiate a day, itislikely hewilloffer todrive you hire adriverHowever, the for if taxi. isbyprivateAccra charter theonly waymobile, toget around you are not disabled tourists.If for The cityisnotwell equipped Disabled and explosives. andammunition, animals, firearms intoGhanainclude imports theNationalMuseum.Banned or available from centre themaincraft Monuments Board; theseare from theMuseumsand certificate fromexempt dutiesmustobtaina andantiquesnot handicrafts Those wishingtoexport perfume. wineand250mlof spirits or tobacco, 375mlof duties: 0.5kgof

410 581 3836 410 5813836 410581 9994 or Visa cards callthesenumbers: payment. For stolencredit lostor cards for don’taccept restaurants Additionally, many hotelsand it’s not atNigerian levels yet. problem growing inGhana,although ascredit card isa fraud possible, Use your credit card aslittle listed below. asForex.signposted Acoupleare –often d’change at thebureau moneyis changing Other optionsfor afewamount you for days. need you go. Only change/withdraw the them. You canletthemknow before untilyoucard beingsuspended call toyour inbanksandlead alarms money outinGhanacansetoff will have lower fees.Taking service recommend becauseaffiliatedbanks Ghanaianbanksthey as towhich with your you homebankbefore go, machines. tocheck Itisagood idea from these will bedispensed ATMs. Usually only localcurrency Ghana Commercial Bankallhave Ecobank, SG-SSB, CALBankand Bank, Standard Bank, Chartered reasons. Barclays security bank for from anATM withina machine is always besttotake outmoney ATMs, it but hasplentyof Accra marketblack isn’tworthwhile. US$1 =GH¢3.41.Changingonthe GBP£1 =GH¢5.83and July 2014 of stability. great As of after aperiod isfluctuatingwildly rate exchange the adecade, first timeinhalf and1cedi.For10, 20,50pesewa the 5, 10,20and50.For coinsitis1,5, notesare 1,2, The denominationsfor 2007 andisequalto10,000oldcedi. latest cediwasintroduced onJuly 3 cedi isdivided into100pesewas. The and ismarked withaGH¢sign.One isthecedi The Ghanaiancurrency Money Lost/olen creditcards

information about Ghana. information about Ghana. resource forallsorts ofnewsand Ghana Webprovides aninvaluable www.ghanaweb.com Tourist Board. that areregisteredwiththeGhana useful foralistoftouroperators the GhanaTouristBoard.It’smost a glitzyintroductiontoGhanafrom The officialGhanaTourismSiteis www.touringghana.com community. A sitelinkingAccra’slargeexpat www.accraexpat.com and servicesinGhanaadvice. A comprehensiveguidetoretail www.noworriesghana.com Facebook pagetoo. an eyeon@TimeOutAccraandour information andinspiration.Keep the latestevents,updated Time OutAccra’sownwebsitehas www.timeout.com/accra thestairs. top of There are signsoutsideandatthe Barclay’s opposite a building Bank. you’ll findinahotel.Itisupstairs in likelywith rates tobebetterthan Trustworthy Street, officeonOxford 394 2197). opp Barclays (0244053705,024 Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), Qwick Bureaud’Change (0302 781706). Oxford Street, 3rd Osu Lane, Off Forbes ForexBureau Osu (0302772962). Opp. UNDPOffice, DanquahCircle, Chase BureauDeChange Discover 8019023100 ExpressAmerican 3363931111 MasterCard 6367227111 GHANA ONLINE Bureau d’Change Useful web links Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 OutAccrafor visitors Time is +233. code and 028.Theinternational with024, aswellbegin as020,027 These are thenumbers thatusually landline anduseamobile. Many may businesses nothave a followed byasix-digitnumber. however itisnow 0302.Itisthen The diallingcodeusedtobe021, materials.websites andbusiness theoldercodeson someof to see onMaychanged 1,2010.Butexpect The dialingcodesacross Ghana are.the rates withyour providercheck what youmobile users, before go, Tigo (www.tigo.com.gh). For (www.vodafone.com.gh) and (www.mtn.com.gh), Vodafone MTN companies, main telephone reliable cards are thosefrom the throughout cities. Themost hands on,soldinkiosksandstores Phone cards toget are your easy numerous phoneboothsaswell. affordable rates. Mostcitieshave centre where you cancallhomeat complicated; every hasacall block Making callsinGhanaisnot Telephones residential premises inGhana. commercial, industrialand for work, piping, heating,ventilation emergency maintenance, include company.and engineering Services A reputable -basedplumbing Accra www.correctplumbinggh.com). (027 8682232,0541447158, Correct Plumbing Services 531, www.tnt.com) 953 (0302 5 AgbaamoLink,Airport TNT fedex.com/gh). Asylum Down (0302257921,www. Mango Tree Headquarters, Street North FedEx 0302 213090,www.dhl.com.gh) (Ridge Crescent, behindKLM DHL 9am-2pm onSaturday. 8am-5pm Monday toFriday and Usher Town. are Officehours on theLutterodt intersection in Office islocatedontheHighStreet Post theCentral InAccra, airport. atthe from particularly Accra, sent getting toitsdestinationif of Your willhave post abetterchance Postal services Mall. Accra in d’change bureau A popular Mon-Sat; 10pm-7pmSun. accramall.com). Open9am-7.30pm Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (www. Yasole ForexBureau Kokomlemle (0302227409). Gold StarForexBureau Dialng codes

87 Directory Directory Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2014/2015 Out Accra for visitors 88 Time London N65HE(0208 3427500). Hill, Commission onHighgate theHigh consular sectionof having togo to the process of thetortuous of half bypassing ghanahighcommissionuk.com), book thevisaonline(www. can now enter Ghana.UKcitizens avisato Australia andCanadaneed from theUK,USA,Europe, Visitors Visas Mon-Fri. station.Open9am-5pm police Nsawam Road, Tesano, nearthe Ghana TouristBoard 9am-5pm Mon-Fri. Kokomlemle Junction. Open Ring Road Central, opposite Accra VisitorsCentre the bestbetishotelconcierge. Usually other generalinformation. get helpwithaccommodationand where you can Airport International accessible isadeskintheKotoka are Themost few between. andfar Tourist centres inGhana information Tourist information time (GMT-1). GMT, UKsummer during except The timeinGhanaisthesameas Time tips beforehand. themoneyandevenon organising insist where tipswould beexpected Coastforts around ElminaandCape drivers. It’s commontohave atour the bill.It’s totiptaxi notnecessary chargecent service isoftenaddedto atenper is common.Inrestaurants fivepercent between andten tip of and where there istable a service, bars. aschop Inrestaurants such establishmentsand smallereating It’s nottoocommontotipinbars Tipping (555 1234). code(416)+number code (1)+area 456). CallstotheUSA:00+country (1234)+number(123 initial zero codeminus code(44)+area country dialling. For totheUK:00+ example thehomenumber, omititwhen of there atthestart isazero number. If your codeandthenthe country To dial00followed callhome, by ones.popular Vodafone andMTNare themost many mobilephoneoutlets. thevery oneof vendors or street GH¢1from upfor can bepicked andSIMcards themostpopular of network. Vodafone andMTNisone frommobile isunlocked itshome the aSIMcard buy if Most visitors Calling home Mobile phones another £20 for a 72-hour service a72-hour another £20for visa.Add six-month multiple entry a visa,£70for three-month asingle2013 are entry £50for July Thecostsasof Immigration. of theDirector informed providing theyhave previously visas inGhanaattheairport Ghanaian consulatecanbeissued from countriesthatdonothave a processing available. service Those although there isarapid working days tobeprocessed, typically seven take atleast Ghana application. Visasfor invitation on to present aletterof need coming toGhanaonbusiness circumstances; visitors certain in upto12monthsare granted for months,althoughvisas three for www.ghanaembassy.org. here: States canget visainformation theUnited and Dublin.Residents of There are alsoofficesinGlasgow 221 Christman House 221 ChristmanHouse sell, letorinvest in property. companies helping peopletobuy, embassies, organisationsand family run.Theyworkwith experience inAccraandremains agency hasmorethan15years This successfulrealestate Domani Properties 2332, www.trasaccovalley.com). PO Box117,Accra(030701 educational facilities. shops, restaurantsand residential area,itwillinclude motorway. Aswellasa Legon, justofftheAccra-Tema garden citylocatedinEast based ontheprinciplesofa 600-acre luxurydevelopment behind TrassacoValley,a Trassaco arethedevelopers Trassaco 770061-3, www.elmdevt.com). Airport ResidentialArea(021 No. 8,Dr.AmilcarCabralRoad, are alreadybuilt. – both residentialdevelopments The PalladioandCharlotte’sPlace recently commercialandretail. estate, initiallyresidential,but This companyfocusesonreal ELM Developments www.dreamrealty.com.gh). (0302 815299, PO BoxAD330,Adabraka of apartmentsandahotel. complex, two17-storeybuildings It isalsobuildingtheRiviera house shops,ahotelandoffices. Accra nexttotheCityHall.Itwill the Octagonbeingbuiltincentral company isthebehind This realestatedevelopment Dream Realty Agents Developers Visitor visas for Ghanaare valid visasfor Visitor Spending abitmoreSpending time inAccra

LONG STAY Police 193 tocallanambulance Medical emergencies Fire All available 24hours Emergencies caused somecriticism. –amove refugees includes thathas bought from localbanks. Thisalso costs $120andatthemomentcanbe ghanaembassy.org) details. for It (www.website official immigration Identification Authority. the Check identity card issuedbytheNational nationalstohaveforeign anational resident that requires allpermanent around. turn a24-hour for and more cliftonghana.com). (020 2224677033, www. Street, AirportResidential, Accra Clifton HomesLtd,34Senchi Legon. month inCantonmentsandEast options startfrom$1,500per start from$100,000.Rental Cantonments orbyAccraMall, One-Bed Apartmentsin in-house constructionteam. to befresh,lightandbuiltbytheir in CentralAccra.Thehomestend hundreds ofcontemporaryhomes Ghana, havingcompleted largest residentialdevelopersin Clifton Homesisoneofthe Clifton Homes signatureproperties.com.gh). (0244 457185,www. P.O. Box16478,Airport,Accra relocation support. sourcing artworkandproviding interior design,creatingor value-added servicesincluding Properties alsooffersbespoke, of suitableproperties.Signature provide acarefullyselectedchoice established groupofbrokersto Accra. situated intheprimeareasof international standardsandare commercial propertiesthatmeet well-appointed residentialand dealing intherentalandsaleof boutique realestatecompany Signature Propertiesisa Signature Properties 630, [email protected]). 3090 (0302774228/0208504 North LaboneAvenue,POBox wide portfolioacrossAccra. Leading realestateagentswitha H Wagner www.domaniproperties.com). ( 020 2027467/0302768934, NOTE: There isanew law inplace 192 It partners with an It partnerswithan 191 www.otal.com) United Kingdom(0121 2365046, Street, 52 Charlotte Birmingham, OT Africa Line 5050). 4, Tema (022205153/024610 Evergreen Community Supermarket, Plaza,next to Suite 17,Crystal Solutions Maritime Business (022 218700). PO Box 8800,Community7 Road, Fishing HarbourArea, Obourwe Building,Torman Maersk Shipping PO Box 51,Tema (022218500). Commercial Warehouse Area, Bollore SDV Logistics Greater Accra 0302664612 0302777592 Police Airport 0302 662290 Opposite NIBHeadquarters Accra Central 0302761 250 Information line Junction (0302228112). Ako, Adjei On RingRoad eastof Headquarters Ghana PoliceService, Police stations Sun. Credit V. Open 9am-9pmMon-Sat;10am-8pm 823 064,lifehealthcare.com.gh). Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (0302 Dental Centre Life HealthCareMedicaland Residential Area (0302775341). 35 Aviation Road, Airport Nyaho Clinic (0302 227328). RingRoad, next toSedcoHouse Off North RidgeClinic 769 680). Ridge School, Roman Ridge (0302 17 Ridge Road, OppositeRoman Medlab (0302 257140). Sankara Overpass, Adabraka Ring Road Central, near Ernst Chemist (NkrumahCircle). House Carpet Labone Star), (behindMorning Bernswett Pharmacy 771 785). 7 Roman Road, Roman Ridge (0302 Beaver DentalClinic Cantonments (0302784772/3/4). Number 1,6thCircular Road, Akai HouseClinic and 37Station(0302776111). Liberation Road nearAkuafo Circle 37 MilitaryHospital Shopping.opticians, see ones thatare For usedbyexpats. and hospitals andmedicalclinics, Heresupermarkets. are friendly and are alsofoundwithin tocomeby are easy Pharmacies enquiries. specific embassy for dentist,contactyour or doctor For assistanceinfindingaprivate Health