Bundle Dyeing

Home , Alkanna tinctoria, Genista tinctoria, Isatis tinctoria, Juglans nigra, Reseda (plant), Rubia tinctorum

Dyes are organic chemicals which appear to be colored because they reflect some wavelengths of the visible spectrum. Dyes are generally water soluble, have an affinity to fibers, and diffuse through the interior of fibers (as opposed to pigments which require a binder to fix them to the surface). Natural dyes are derived from plants, fungi, lichens, insects, and mollusks, and were used universally until the invention of synthetic dyes in 1856.

Fibers suitable to natural dyeing are also derived from the natural world. They are classified as cellulose fibers from plants, and protein fibers from animals. Animal fibers generally take color more strongly, but each fiber has its own personality in the dye pot.

Scouring cleanses ﬁbers of any chemicals or dirt before dyeing. Once cleaned with a pH neutral, fragrance free detergent, the dye molecules are able to penetrate the complex structure of the ﬁber.

Mordants are metal ions which bind dye molecules to ﬁbers by forming large insoluble compounds. Mordants are not always necessary, but generally improve the richness of color and its lightfastness. Mordants can be applied before, during, or after dyeing. Post-mordanting after dyeing is usually done to alter the color of the dye.

Botanical Mordants Metallic Mordants tannic acid aluminum sulfate oxalic acid aluminum acetate protein ferrous sulfate

Mordant quantity is calculated as a percentage of the dry weight of fiber. Cellulose fibers: 15% or aluminum sulfate + 6% soda ash Protein fibers: 8% or aluminum sulfate + 7% cream of tartar

Dissolve the mordant and additive in hot water. Add the wetted ﬁbers and soak for 1-12 hours, gently stirring occasionally. Rinse thoroughly. At this point ﬁbers can be used immediately, or dried and stored.

Bundling Now have fun! Spread fresh leaves and petals, dried plants, or dye extract powder over your wet or dry fabric. Use these materials to create patterns, or fold your fabric into geometric shapes. The dyes will travel through the layers of fabric where it is cinched, tied, or clamped. Bundle around a heavy stick for added tannins, or a rusty object for iron.

Extraction & Dyeing Once bundled, the dyes can be extracted and set in a few different ways:

Burial Bury your tightly wrapped bundle in the garden for 4-6 weeks. The rainwater percolating through the fabric and microbial action breaking down the plant materials will create interesting, earthy patterns. Minerals present in the soil will act as mordants, helping the dye compounds bond to the fabric.

Sea Water Soak Bundle your fabric around a stone and leave it in a tidal pool for several days. The undulating tides and mineral salts they carry will extract and ﬁx the dye compounds.

Natalie A. Stopka, 2020 1 www.nataliestopka.com Simmer Toss your bundled fabric in a pot of simmering water with 1 tablespoon aluminum sulfate for half an hour. Dye colors will steep out of the plants to create watercolor-like patters, and the aluminum sulfate will ﬁx them to the fabric.

Steam Use pre-mordanted fabirc to wrap up your bundle, then steam it in a steamer basket over boiling water for one hour. The steam will break down the plant material, and give a crisp quality to the print.

Natural Dye Sources Yellow Flavonoid dyes include the colorants *suitable for cold water, burial, or solar extraction luteolin, quercetagetol, and quercitrin among others: Blue Indigoid dye/pigment: *Birch (Betula species) Leaf Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) Black-eyed Susan (Rubeckia species) Woad (Isatis tinctoria) *Buckthorn (Rhamnus frangula and R. cathartica) Berries and Bark Blue & Purple Anthocyanin dyes are not very Dyer's Broom (Genista tinctoria) Young shoots lightfast, but excitingly pH sensitive: and leaves Elder (Sambucus nigra) Berries *Dyer’s Camomile (Anthemis tinctoria) *Hollyhock (Alcea rosea var. nigra) petals Dyer’s Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria) Pansies & violets (Viola spp.) *Goldenrod (Solidago species) Golden Marguerite (anthemis tintoria) Red & Pink Anthraquinone dyes including the Marigold (tegetus spp.) colorants alizarin, purpurin, pseudopupurin, *Osage Orange (Maclura pomifera) laccaic acid, kermesic acid, and carminic acid: Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria) Cochineal (Coccus Cacti) Insect Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota) Dyer's Woodruff (Asperula tinctoria) Roots St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum) Kermes (Kermes vermilio) Insect Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) Lac (Kerria lacca) *Weld, Dyer’s Rocket (Reseda luteola) *Lady's Bedstraw (Gallium verum) Root Yarrow (Achillea) *Madder (Rubia tinctorum) Root Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia) Yellow Curcumin dyes: *Himalalayan rhubarb (Rheum emodi) *Turmeric (Curcuma longa) Rhizome

Pink Benzoquinone dyes: Yellow Berberine dyes: *Safﬂower (Carthamus tinctoria) petals *Indian Barberry (Berberis aristata) Root

Red & Purple Di-hydropyran dyes including Tannin dyes & botanical mordants haematoxylin and brazeilein: Clear Gallic Tannins: Brazilwood (sappanwood, Caesalpinia sappan) *Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) Leaves, bark Logwood (Haematoxylon campechianum) *Oak (Quercus Robur) Bark, leaves, & galls Quebracho Rojo (Schinopsis quebracho-colorado) Yellow Ellegic Tannins: Brown Naphthoquinone dyes: *Fustic (Chlorophora tinctoria) Heartwood *Dyer’s Alkanet (alkanna tinctoria) Root *Myrobalan (Terminalia chebula) *Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) Nut husk *Pomegranate (Punica granatum) Rind Henna (Lawsonia inermis) Ratanjot (Anchusa tinctoria) Red-Brown Catechic Tannins: *Cutch (Acacia catechu)

Natalie A. Stopka, 2020 2 www.nataliestopka.com Material Resources Dharma Trading Aurora Silk www.dharmatrading.com www.aurorasilk.com Kremer Pigments Botanical Colors www.kremerpigments.com botanicalcolors.com Maiwa www.maiwa.com