The Best of 2020 Surefire No-Stretch, Pour-In-The- Pan Pizza, Plus Many More! ★
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A ★ SPECIAL★ YEAR- END★ EDITION Vietnamese Caramel Chicken | Spaghetti with Parmesan Cream ◆ CHANGE THE WAY YOU COOK SPECIAL ISSUE ◆ The Best of 2020 Surefire no-stretch, pour-in-the- pan pizza, plus many more! ★ Crispy Pork Carnitas from Oaxaca | Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake ◆ Special Issue – Best of 2020 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Change the Way You Cook ◆ RECIPE INDEX Zucchini Salad with Lemon, Herbs and Ricotta In Puglia, we learned to transform zucchini into a salad rich with ricotta and lemon ������������ 6 Chicken Vindaloo In Mumbai, sweet chilies and vinegar pack bold, easy flavor into a one-pan meal �����������������7 Carnitas Shredded, sauced and crisped—the tender, juicy pork you need for your tacos ��������������������9 Tomato and Bread Salad with Herbs and Mozzarella Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza ....................Page 26 Pickled red onions and creamy mozzarella update the classic panzanella ������������������������� 10 Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake ......Page 36 Vietnamese Caramel Chicken In Ho Chi Minh City, cooks lacquer chicken with an easy savory-sweet sauce ������������������� 13 Patatas Bravas These potatoes are creamy, crunchy and doused with a smoky paprika sauce �������������������� 14 Tomato-Olive Focaccia A long rise and ample olive oil make the best focaccia �������������������������������������������������� 16 Shanghai-Style Scallion Noodles with Ground Pork Fried scallions—and their flavorful oil—season this simple noodle dish ��������������������������� 18 Palestinian Upside-Down Chicken and Rice (Maqlubeh) In Galilee, chicken, rice and vegetables are transformed into a one-pot feast ��������������������� 21 Pasta with Parmesan Cream From Bologna, a three-ingredient cheese sauce that’s brightened with lemon juice ������������� 22 Seared Pork Tenderloin with Smoked Paprika and Oregano In Extremadura, cooks know that with smoked paprika, timing is everything ������������������� 25 Shanghai-Style Scallion Noodles ...... Page 18 Chicken Paprikash ..........................Page 28 Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza with Tomatoes and Mozzarella Finally, a no-stretch, surefire homemade pizza, inspired by Puglian focaccia ��������������������� 27 Fast & Slow: Chicken Paprikash The Instant Pot lets you decide how quickly you cook this Hungarian classic ��������������������� 28 Orecchiette with Broccolini Breadcrumbs bring richness and texture to a simple pasta from Puglia, Italy ����������������������� 29 Sesame Noodles with Chicken and Scallions Finally, a savory noodle salad that won’t turn soggy! ���������������������������������������������������� 30 Smothered Chicken with Bourbon and Miso Bourbon and miso deliver long-simmered flavor fast to braised chicken ��������������������������� 31 Roasted Butternut Squash with Cumin Seeds, Feta and Pistachios Creamy, briny feta tossed with lime juice balances richly roasted squash �������������������������� 32 Vietnamese Chicken Curry In Ho Chi Minh City, lemon grass and star anise transform a simple Indian curry ������������� 33 Roasted Butternut Squash ...............Page 32 Roasted Carrots with Turmeric Honey Zucchini Salad with Lemon ................Page 6 Honey and a high-heat roast make for the sweetest, richest carrots ���������������������������������� 34 Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake A French baker’s whipped white chocolate ganache reimagines a stunning layer cake ��������� 36 Mexican Sweet Corn Cake (Panqué de Elote) In Mexico City, cornbread becomes a rich, tender cake made in the blender ���������������������� 39 Swedish “Sticky” Chocolate Cake A gooey center and short ingredient list make for a sensational—and sticky—cake ������������� 40 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ����������������������������������������������������������2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners� Fast� �������������������������������������������������� 4 Kitchen Counts: Getting in the (oven) zone �������������������������������������������������������������� 34 Sketchbook: Mortars and pestles from around the world �������������������������������������������� 41 Front Cover Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin Seared Pork Tenderloin ...................Page 25 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Sweet Corn Cake ............................Page 39 ■ Visit us at 177MilkStreet.com and follow us online. cpkmilkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue [ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball By Hand President and Founder Christopher Kimball recent caller on our steak. For me, these sensations Media Director and Co-Founder radio show, Melissa, connect me to my deepest past: Melissa Baldino helped a neighbor a farmhouse kitchen on a wet, Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch butcher a cow and was cold day when anadama bread Food Editor - Matthew Card A Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox given the bones as a thank you. has just been pulled out of the Managing Editor - Shaula Clark Now she wanted to know how to oven, offering a ripe whiff of Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke Digital Content Editor - Alison Spiegel cook stock with 150 pounds of molasses; the first steamy bite Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara bones. Curious, I asked how she of buttered, salted corn picked Senior Staff Writer - Albert Stumm Staff Writer - Cathryn Haight learned to cut up a 1,200-pound minutes before, and the warmth Contributing Food Editor - Bianca Borges animal. She said she looked it of late afternoon sun as I churn Science Editor - Guy Crosby up in “Country Wisdom & Know- peach ice cream on the steps. Magazine Design - Joe Dizney Production Manager - A.K. Summers How,” a compendium of rural Earlier culinary travelers Art Director, Photography - Brianna Coleman how-tos. She mentioned that she have mistaken cooking by hand Art Director, Digital - Devin Sullivan owned a Sawzall, as well as a table for lack of sophistication; a Graphic Designer - Sophia Valentini bandsaw. It became clear that quaintness that was about to be Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger Culinary Manager - Wes Martin Melissa is pretty handy around replaced by technology. Today, Senior Recipe Developers - Erika Bruce, Courtney Hill the farm. however, I am of the opposite point of view. Recipe Developer - Rebecca Richmond Assistant Recipe Developers - Calvin Cox, Rose Hattabaugh I grew up around people just like Melissa. It’s the mark of the richest cultures, not some- Contributing Recipe Developer - Lynn Clark Balers got out of whack and had to be fixed in thing to be shunted off as old-fashioned. Culinary Assistant - Elizabeth Mindreau the middle of haying. Venison was dressed When your hands are used to push buttons, Director of Education - Rosemary Gill out, cut up and pressure-canned for the win- not transform ingredients into dinner, then Cooking School Manager - April Dodd Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide ter. Jars of liniment and bag balm were com- we have descended into a world of postmod- Vice President of Marketing - David Mack mon supplies. Any sort of plumbing, carpentry ern dystopia. We have distanced ourselves Partnerships & Talent Development Director - Devonie Nicholas or electrical matter was done by oneself or a from what matters most. Food, love, family— Video Content Director - Adam Ducharme Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek neighbor. But you never lent out your hunting they all have to be experienced firsthand. Marketing Project Manager - Cate Yochum dogs or tools; they were private property. It’s touch that matters. Television and Video Co-Executive Producer - Carly Helmetag Associate Producer - Jackie Noack Traveling the world has reminded me that My favorite unheralded writer of the 20th Production Assistant - Sarah Clapp cooking is still done by hand; it is the last vestige century, Gordon MacQuarrie, writes about Digital Content Director - Evan Petto of our heritage of self-reliance. Harvesting and Harry, a true outdoorsman: “You can spot those Digital Content Coordinator - Janelle Cox Director of E-Commerce - Missy Sternlicht pressing your own olives in Italy or Galilee, roll- real country-raised boys every time when they Buyer, E-Commerce Merchandising - Jem Wilner ing scallion pancakes in Taipei, cooking over grab an ax… No false moves. No glancing E-Commerce Operations Manager - McKenzie Lewis E-Commerce Culinary Coordinator - Julia Rackow live coals in Oaxaca, grilling eggs in their shells blows.” After splitting a half cord of wood E-Commerce Customer Service Associate - Sara McManus in Vietnam, barbecuing whole lamb in Argen- (following a full day of duck hunting), Harry Executive Asst./Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis tina. Using one’s hands is, after all, what defines whittles a weather vane from an old shingle. Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers online us as human—the ability to make tools and use “I suppose that if I had mentioned building an classes as well as instruction at 177 Milk Street in Boston. For our them. Yes, animals often use rocks and sticks addition to the back porch he’d have started curriculum and schedule, go to 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool. to get what they want, to crush a clamshell or to right in.” Later, MacQuarrie gets to the heart Milk Street Sessions: Milk Street offers live cooking sessions and retrieve ants, and the intelligence of animals has of it: “He knows the value of working with his interviews with guest