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The Best of 2020 Surefire No-Stretch, Pour-In-The- Pan Pizza, Plus Many More! ★

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A ★ SPECIAL★ YEAR- END★ EDITION Vietnamese Caramel Chicken | Spaghetti with Parmesan Cream ◆ CHANGE THE WAY YOU COOK SPECIAL ISSUE ◆ The Best of 2020 Surefire no-stretch, pour-in-the- pan pizza, plus many more! ★ Crispy Pork Carnitas from Oaxaca | Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake ◆ Special Issue – Best of 2020 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Change the Way You Cook ◆ RECIPE INDEX Zucchini Salad with Lemon, Herbs and Ricotta In Puglia, we learned to transform zucchini into a salad rich with ricotta and lemon ������������ 6 Chicken Vindaloo In Mumbai, sweet chilies and vinegar pack bold, easy flavor into a one-pan meal �����������������7 Carnitas Shredded, sauced and crisped—the tender, juicy pork you need for your tacos ��������������������9 Tomato and Bread Salad with Herbs and Mozzarella Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza ....................Page 26 Pickled red onions and creamy mozzarella update the classic panzanella ������������������������� 10 Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake ......Page 36 Vietnamese Caramel Chicken In Ho Chi Minh City, cooks lacquer chicken with an easy savory-sweet sauce ������������������� 13 Patatas Bravas These potatoes are creamy, crunchy and doused with a smoky paprika sauce �������������������� 14 Tomato-Olive Focaccia A long rise and ample olive oil make the best focaccia �������������������������������������������������� 16 Shanghai-Style Scallion Noodles with Ground Pork Fried scallions—and their flavorful oil—season this simple noodle dish ��������������������������� 18 Palestinian Upside-Down Chicken and Rice (Maqlubeh) In Galilee, chicken, rice and vegetables are transformed into a one-pot feast ��������������������� 21 Pasta with Parmesan Cream From Bologna, a three-ingredient cheese sauce that’s brightened with lemon juice ������������� 22 Seared Pork Tenderloin with Smoked Paprika and Oregano In Extremadura, cooks know that with smoked paprika, timing is everything ������������������� 25 Shanghai-Style Scallion Noodles ...... Page 18 Chicken Paprikash ..........................Page 28 Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza with Tomatoes and Mozzarella Finally, a no-stretch, surefire homemade pizza, inspired by Puglian focaccia ��������������������� 27 Fast & Slow: Chicken Paprikash The Instant Pot lets you decide how quickly you cook this Hungarian classic ��������������������� 28 Orecchiette with Broccolini Breadcrumbs bring richness and texture to a simple pasta from Puglia, Italy ����������������������� 29 Sesame Noodles with Chicken and Scallions Finally, a savory noodle salad that won’t turn soggy! ���������������������������������������������������� 30 Smothered Chicken with Bourbon and Miso Bourbon and miso deliver long-simmered flavor fast to braised chicken ��������������������������� 31 Roasted Butternut Squash with Cumin Seeds, Feta and Pistachios Creamy, briny feta tossed with lime juice balances richly roasted squash �������������������������� 32 Vietnamese Chicken Curry In Ho Chi Minh City, lemon grass and star anise transform a simple Indian curry ������������� 33 Roasted Butternut Squash ...............Page 32 Roasted Carrots with Turmeric Honey Zucchini Salad with Lemon ................Page 6 Honey and a high-heat roast make for the sweetest, richest carrots ���������������������������������� 34 Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake A French baker’s whipped white chocolate ganache reimagines a stunning layer cake ��������� 36 Mexican Sweet Corn Cake (Panqué de Elote) In Mexico City, cornbread becomes a rich, tender cake made in the blender ���������������������� 39 Swedish “Sticky” Chocolate Cake A gooey center and short ingredient list make for a sensational—and sticky—cake ������������� 40 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ����������������������������������������������������������2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners� Fast� �������������������������������������������������� 4 Kitchen Counts: Getting in the (oven) zone �������������������������������������������������������������� 34 Sketchbook: Mortars and pestles from around the world �������������������������������������������� 41 Front Cover Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin Seared Pork Tenderloin ...................Page 25 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Sweet Corn Cake ............................Page 39 ■ Visit us at 177MilkStreet.com and follow us online. cpkmilkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue [ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball By Hand President and Founder Christopher Kimball recent caller on our steak. For me, these sensations Media Director and Co-Founder radio show, Melissa, connect me to my deepest past: Melissa Baldino helped a neighbor a farmhouse kitchen on a wet, Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch butcher a cow and was cold day when anadama bread Food Editor - Matthew Card A Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox given the bones as a thank you. has just been pulled out of the Managing Editor - Shaula Clark Now she wanted to know how to oven, offering a ripe whiff of Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke Digital Content Editor - Alison Spiegel cook stock with 150 pounds of molasses; the first steamy bite Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara bones. Curious, I asked how she of buttered, salted corn picked Senior Staff Writer - Albert Stumm Staff Writer - Cathryn Haight learned to cut up a 1,200-pound minutes before, and the warmth Contributing Food Editor - Bianca Borges animal. She said she looked it of late afternoon sun as I churn Science Editor - Guy Crosby up in “Country Wisdom & Know- peach ice cream on the steps. Magazine Design - Joe Dizney Production Manager - A.K. Summers How,” a compendium of rural Earlier culinary travelers Art Director, Photography - Brianna Coleman how-tos. She mentioned that she have mistaken cooking by hand Art Director, Digital - Devin Sullivan owned a Sawzall, as well as a table for lack of sophistication; a Graphic Designer - Sophia Valentini bandsaw. It became clear that quaintness that was about to be Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger Culinary Manager - Wes Martin Melissa is pretty handy around replaced by technology. Today, Senior Recipe Developers - Erika Bruce, Courtney Hill the farm. however, I am of the opposite point of view. Recipe Developer - Rebecca Richmond Assistant Recipe Developers - Calvin Cox, Rose Hattabaugh I grew up around people just like Melissa. It’s the mark of the richest cultures, not some- Contributing Recipe Developer - Lynn Clark Balers got out of whack and had to be fixed in thing to be shunted off as old-fashioned. Culinary Assistant - Elizabeth Mindreau the middle of haying. Venison was dressed When your hands are used to push buttons, Director of Education - Rosemary Gill out, cut up and pressure-canned for the win- not transform ingredients into dinner, then Cooking School Manager - April Dodd Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide ter. Jars of liniment and bag balm were com- we have descended into a world of postmod- Vice President of Marketing - David Mack mon supplies. Any sort of plumbing, carpentry ern dystopia. We have distanced ourselves Partnerships & Talent Development Director - Devonie Nicholas or electrical matter was done by oneself or a from what matters most. Food, love, family— Video Content Director - Adam Ducharme Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek neighbor. But you never lent out your hunting they all have to be experienced firsthand. Marketing Project Manager - Cate Yochum dogs or tools; they were private property. It’s touch that matters. Television and Video Co-Executive Producer - Carly Helmetag Associate Producer - Jackie Noack Traveling the world has reminded me that My favorite unheralded writer of the 20th Production Assistant - Sarah Clapp cooking is still done by hand; it is the last vestige century, Gordon MacQuarrie, writes about Digital Content Director - Evan Petto of our heritage of self-reliance. Harvesting and Harry, a true outdoorsman: “You can spot those Digital Content Coordinator - Janelle Cox Director of E-Commerce - Missy Sternlicht pressing your own olives in Italy or Galilee, roll- real country-raised boys every time when they Buyer, E-Commerce Merchandising - Jem Wilner ing scallion pancakes in Taipei, cooking over grab an ax… No false moves. No glancing E-Commerce Operations Manager - McKenzie Lewis E-Commerce Culinary Coordinator - Julia Rackow live coals in Oaxaca, grilling eggs in their shells blows.” After splitting a half cord of wood E-Commerce Customer Service Associate - Sara McManus in Vietnam, barbecuing whole lamb in Argen- (following a full day of duck hunting), Harry Executive Asst./Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis tina. Using one’s hands is, after all, what defines whittles a weather vane from an old shingle. Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers online us as human—the ability to make tools and use “I suppose that if I had mentioned building an classes as well as instruction at 177 Milk Street in Boston. For our them. 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