A ★ SPECIAL★ YEAR- END★ EDITION Vietnamese Caramel Chicken | Spaghetti with Parmesan Cream

◆ CHANGE THE WAY YOU COOK SPECIAL ISSUE ◆ The Best of 2020 Surefire no-stretch, pour-in-the- pan pizza, plus many more! ★

Crispy Pork Carnitas from Oaxaca | Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake ◆ Special Issue – Best of 2020 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Change the Way You Cook ◆ RECIPE INDEX

Zucchini Salad with Lemon, Herbs and Ricotta In Puglia, we learned to transform zucchini into a salad rich with ricotta and lemon ������������ 6 Chicken Vindaloo In Mumbai, sweet chilies and vinegar pack bold, easy flavor into a one-pan meal �����������������7 Carnitas Shredded, sauced and crisped—the tender, juicy pork you need for your tacos ��������������������9 Tomato and Bread Salad with Herbs and Mozzarella Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza...... Page 26 Pickled red onions and creamy mozzarella update the classic panzanella ������������������������� 10 Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake...... Page 36 Vietnamese Caramel Chicken In Ho Chi Minh City, cooks lacquer chicken with an easy savory-sweet sauce ������������������� 13 Patatas Bravas These potatoes are creamy, crunchy and doused with a smoky paprika sauce �������������������� 14 Tomato-Olive Focaccia A long rise and ample olive oil make the best focaccia �������������������������������������������������� 16 Shanghai-Style Scallion Noodles with Ground Pork Fried scallions—and their flavorful oil—season this simple noodle dish ��������������������������� 18 Palestinian Upside-Down Chicken and Rice (Maqlubeh) In Galilee, chicken, rice and vegetables are transformed into a one-pot feast ��������������������� 21 Pasta with Parmesan Cream From Bologna, a three-ingredient cheese sauce that’s brightened with lemon juice ������������� 22 Seared Pork Tenderloin with Smoked Paprika and Oregano In Extremadura, cooks know that with smoked paprika, timing is everything ������������������� 25 Shanghai-Style Scallion Noodles...... Page 18 Chicken Paprikash...... Page 28 Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza with Tomatoes and Mozzarella Finally, a no-stretch, surefire homemade pizza, inspired by Puglian focaccia ��������������������� 27 Fast & Slow: Chicken Paprikash The Instant Pot lets you decide how quickly you cook this Hungarian classic ��������������������� 28 Orecchiette with Broccolini Breadcrumbs bring richness and texture to a simple pasta from Puglia, Italy ����������������������� 29 Sesame Noodles with Chicken and Scallions Finally, a savory noodle salad that won’t turn soggy! ���������������������������������������������������� 30 Smothered Chicken with Bourbon and Miso Bourbon and miso deliver long-simmered flavor fast to braised chicken ��������������������������� 31 Roasted Butternut Squash with Cumin Seeds, Feta and Pistachios Creamy, briny feta tossed with lime juice balances richly roasted squash �������������������������� 32 Vietnamese Chicken Curry In Ho Chi Minh City, lemon grass and star anise transform a simple Indian curry ������������� 33 Roasted Butternut Squash...... Page 32 Roasted Carrots with Turmeric Honey Zucchini Salad with Lemon...... Page 6 Honey and a high-heat roast make for the sweetest, richest carrots ���������������������������������� 34 Chocolate-Hazelnut Cream Cake A French baker’s whipped white chocolate ganache reimagines a stunning layer cake ��������� 36 Mexican Sweet Corn Cake (Panqué de Elote) In Mexico City, cornbread becomes a rich, tender cake made in the blender ���������������������� 39 Swedish “Sticky” Chocolate Cake A gooey center and short ingredient list make for a sensational—and sticky—cake ������������� 40 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ����������������������������������������������������������2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners. Fast. �������������������������������������������������� 4 Kitchen Counts: Getting in the (oven) zone �������������������������������������������������������������� 34 Sketchbook: Mortars and pestles from around the world �������������������������������������������� 41

Front Cover Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin Seared Pork Tenderloin...... Page 25 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Sweet Corn Cake...... Page 39

■ Visit us at 177MilkStreet.com and follow us online. cpkmilkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet 177milkstreet Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball By Hand

President and Founder Christopher Kimball recent caller on our steak. For me, these sensations Media Director and Co-Founder radio show, Melissa, connect me to my deepest past: Melissa Baldino helped a neighbor a farmhouse kitchen on a wet, Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch butcher a cow and was cold day when anadama bread Food Editor - Matthew Card A Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox given the bones as a thank you. has just been pulled out of the Managing Editor - Shaula Clark Now she wanted to know how to oven, offering a ripe whiff of Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke Digital Content Editor - Alison Spiegel cook stock with 150 pounds of molasses; the first steamy bite Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara bones. Curious, I asked how she of buttered, salted corn picked Senior Staff Writer - Albert Stumm Staff Writer - Cathryn Haight learned to cut up a 1,200-pound minutes before, and the warmth Contributing Food Editor - Bianca Borges animal. She said she looked it of late afternoon sun as I churn Science Editor - Guy Crosby up in “Country Wisdom & Know-­ peach ice cream on the steps. Magazine Design - Joe Dizney Production Manager - A.K. Summers How,” a compendium of rural Earlier culinary travelers Art Director, Photography - Brianna Coleman how-tos. She mentioned that she have mistaken cooking by hand Art Director, Digital - Devin Sullivan owned a Sawzall, as well as a table for lack of sophistication; a Graphic Designer - Sophia Valentini bandsaw. It became clear that quaintness that was about to be Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger Culinary Manager - Wes Martin Melissa is pretty handy around replaced by technology. Today, Senior Recipe Developers - Erika Bruce, Courtney Hill the farm. however, I am of the opposite point of view. Recipe Developer - Rebecca Richmond Assistant Recipe Developers - Calvin Cox, Rose Hattabaugh I grew up around people just like Melissa. It’s the mark of the richest cultures, not some- Contributing Recipe Developer - Lynn Clark Balers got out of whack and had to be fixed in thing to be shunted off as old-fashioned. Culinary Assistant - Elizabeth Mindreau the middle of haying. Venison was dressed When your hands are used to push buttons, Director of Education - Rosemary Gill out, cut up and pressure-canned for the win- not transform ingredients into dinner, then Cooking School Manager - April Dodd Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide ter. Jars of liniment and bag balm were com- we have descended into a world of postmod- Vice President of Marketing - David Mack mon supplies. Any sort of plumbing, carpentry ern dystopia. We have distanced ourselves Partnerships & Talent Development Director - Devonie Nicholas or electrical matter was done by oneself or a from what matters most. Food, love, family— Video Content Director - Adam Ducharme Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek neighbor. But you never lent out your hunting they all have to be experienced firsthand. Marketing Project Manager - Cate Yochum dogs or tools; they were private property. It’s touch that matters. Television and Video Co-Executive Producer - Carly Helmetag Associate Producer - Jackie Noack Traveling the world has reminded me that My favorite unheralded writer of the 20th Production Assistant - Sarah Clapp cooking is still done by hand; it is the last vestige century, Gordon MacQuarrie, writes about Digital Content Director - Evan Petto of our heritage of self-reliance. Harvesting and Harry, a true outdoorsman: “You can spot those Digital Content Coordinator - Janelle Cox Director of E-Commerce - Missy Sternlicht pressing your own olives in Italy or Galilee, roll- real country-raised boys every time when they Buyer, E-Commerce Merchandising - Jem Wilner ing scallion pancakes in Taipei, cooking over grab an ax… No false moves. No glancing E-Commerce Operations Manager - McKenzie Lewis E-Commerce Culinary Coordinator - Julia Rackow live coals in Oaxaca, grilling eggs in their shells blows.” After splitting a half cord of wood E-Commerce Customer Service Associate - Sara McManus in Vietnam, barbecuing whole lamb in Argen- (following a full day of duck hunting), Harry Executive Asst./Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis tina. Using one’s hands is, after all, what defines whittles a weather vane from an old shingle. Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers online us as human—the ability to make tools and use “I suppose that if I had mentioned building an classes as well as instruction at 177 Milk Street in Boston. For our them. Yes, animals often use rocks and sticks addition to the back porch he’d have started curriculum and schedule, go to 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool. to get what they want, to crush a clamshell or to right in.” Later, MacQuarrie gets to the heart Milk Street Sessions: Milk Street offers live cooking sessions and retrieve ants, and the intelligence of animals has of it: “He knows the value of working with his interviews with guest chefs, cookbook authors and food experts. Check 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool for updates. been greatly underrated. But humans build own hands, of being eternally busy, except Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio is broadcast weekly on cathedrals, computers, harpsichords and rockets. when sleeping.” public radio stations nationwide. Our weekly podcast is available Cooking may be the last truly useful thing History teaches that civilization is not a on iTunes. For more, go to milkstreetradio.com. we do by hand; it’s all about how your hands straight line. Things often go backward and Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television airs weekly on public television stations nationwide. make you feel. The hands transmit powerful we leave behind what matters most. These things Job postings at Milk Street are available at 177milkstreet.com/jobs. may appear primitive, like being elbow-deep sensory input to the brain—the weight of a To receive free recipes from Milk Street sign up at 177milkstreet.com/ knife, the sensation of slicing through an in the guts of a large buck in deer season, but newsletter. onion. The brain transforms these inputs into our hands are there for a reason: to remind us You can write to us at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, 177 Milk emotions and connects them to memory. that we are human, that we are desperate for Street, Boston, MA 02109, or email us your cooking questions at [email protected]. Good cooks know the sizzle of sautéing, the contact with the physical world for reasons Printed in the U.S.A. aroma of a chocolate cake ready to come out of that transcend practicality. It is, I think, an

Illustration: John Dykes John Illustration: the oven, or the feel of a perfectly cooked inconvenient truth. ◆

1 The Best of Milk Street 2020

Meze Small Bites from Milk Street

they allow steam to rise up spread. We like it smeared Refreshing through the slats, yet the on toast, stirred into Limeade, Ho dumplings slide free easily. oatmeal, mixed with fresh It also was great for goat cheese for a spread, Chi Minh Style steaming delicate white folded into whipped cream nnumerable coffee shops fish. A similar disk—the and swirled into warm I dot Ho Chi Minh City, Laxhand Pressure Cooker squash soup. We also like and the beverage of choice Rack—is available on for most Vietnamese is the Amazon for about $10. potent local coffee—hot or cold—blended with sweetened condensed milk. No Open Fire But for something with a bit less octane, customers at Needed for Cheo Leo Café—the oldest These Creamy coffee shop in the city— order sûra dá chanh, a blend Chestnuts of lime juice and sweetened hese days, all manner This rich chestnut spread condensed milk mixed Tof seeds and nuts are has sweet and savory uses. with crushed ice. Stirred pureed into spreadable until it melts a bit, the butters, from cashews and to whisk a teaspoon of the drink is refreshing, tangy almonds to sunflower seeds puree and a splash of vinegar and not too sweet. To make, and pepitas. One of our into the pan juices of a in a highball glass combine favorite recent finds in this roasted chicken with fresh the juice of 1 lime, ¼ cup Vietnamese limeade is tangy, cooling and lightly sweet. category: chestnuts. The tarragon for a Provençal- sweetened condensed spread—called crème de style dinner. And of milk and ¼ cup seltzer by Gentlemen’s Hardware marrons and popular in course there’s no shame in water. Stir, then add will make your packing a A Slicker Way France for several centu- eating it straight from the crushed ice to fill the glass. little easier. Resembling an to Steam ries—is made by cooking spoon. Amazon sells a oversized Swiss Army chestnuts with sugar and variety of brands, including e love making tender, knife, the gizmo folds away vanilla, then pureeing the 500-gram jars of Clément plump steamed everything you need for W mixture into a thick, sweet Faugier Chestnut Spread For Mixology dumplings, but we hate muddling, stirring, straining, for about $13. how they tend to stick to on the Move zesting and more. It even the bamboo slats of our f you are prone to mixing includes a jigger, can and steamer basket. Prying cocktails on the road, the bottle openers, a corkscrew I them loose too often tears 10 in 1 Cocktail Multi-Tool and a channel knife for them, releasing all their when fancy garnishes are a flavorful fillings. Many must. Available for about cooks get around this by $21 on Amazon. lining their steamers with lettuce leaves. But during a recent visit to Hong Kong, we discovered another approach: perforated stainless steel disks that can be placed in the steamer. Lightly oiled (or No more torn dumplings,

Create cocktails on the go with this tool. misted with cooking spray), thanks to this steel disk. Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

2 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

“I like chicken a lot because chicken is generous — that is to say, it’s obedient. It will do whatever you tell it to do.” —Maya Angelou

A Boxier Box Grater A Tasty “Friend ow to improve the for Rice” Hbasic box grater? Make it boxier. British A Pantry housewares designer Joseph Joseph’s Prism is Sauce a rectangular grater that sits with Punch snugly on top of a plastic container for catching n Ho Chi Minh City, and containing the shreds home cooks keep jars of I of food. A comfortable chili-garlic sauce on hand Chili-garlic sauce adds silicone handle on top and for adding subtle heat and subtle heat and deep flavor. non-slip feet make it Japan’s furikake seasons rice—and much more. gentle garlic flavor to all comfortable and conve- manner of dishes. The 6 inches, dry outer layers nient to use. Available for ome 100 or so Shiso Furikake gets its flavor is more nuanced discarded, and roughly $20 at JosephJoseph.com. years ago, seasoned distinctive color and and less fiery-sharp than chopped), 2 small shallots ◆ S crushed sesame seeds anise flavor from dried purchased chili-garlic (roughly chopped) and were a solution to shiso leaves, as well as sauces. The sauce—which 1 teaspoon kosher salt. the problem of calcium crunchy-nutty notes we gladly spoon over rice Blend until finely minced, deficiency in the from white and black and noodle dishes, as well 30 to 60 seconds. Scrape Japanese diet. Fast sesame seeds. It has a as into sauces and over the mixture into a forward a century and salty, deep umami roast meats—will keep in 10-inch skillet. Set furikake has evolved flavor that is delicious a tightly sealed jar in the over medium-low into a delicious dry sprinkled on freshly refrigerator for up to two and cook, stirring condiment sprinkled sliced mango and weeks. To make, in a occasionally and liberally over all grilled fruit. It also is blender, combine 1 cup adjusting the heat manner of dishes, excellent dusted over neutral oil, 12 Fresno to maintain gentle particularly rice. seared scallops and chilies (stemmed, seeded bubbling, until the solids Previously known as tossed with grilled and roughly chopped), are completely broken gohan no tomo—or shrimp. We also like 6 medium garlic cloves down and paste-like, about “a friend for rice”—the the company’s Aji Nori (smashed and peeled), 30 minutes. Transfer to a mix began as a blend Furikake, which has a 2 stalks lemon grass small bowl or glass jar and A box grater that corrals of finely ground fish green hue from strips (trimmed to the lower 5 to cool completely. shreds—for less messy prep. bones, sesame seeds, of nori seaweed and a poppy seeds and sweet-briny flavor from seaweed—all high in a mix of sugar and Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street calcium. Today, the sea salt. It is great on is changing how we cook… fish bones are gone and rice, but also is terrific …by finding bold, simple recipes from around the world the focus is more on for topping steamed for home cooks everywhere. Find all our recipes, shop flavor, with numerous broccoli, roasted our favorite products and learn more about public television’s variations available. potatoes and buttered Milk Street Television, Milk Street Radio and our online Two of our favorites popcorn. Both are and in-person Milk Street Cooking School at: are made by Santaka available on Amazon for about $15. 177MILKSTREET.COM Spice in Japan. Ume ◆ Illustration: John Dykes; Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

3 The Best of Milk Street 2020 Tuesday Nights

Moroccan-Style Braised Chicken and Chickpeas eason 2 pounds boneless, skinless Schicken thighs with kosher salt, ground black pepper and 1 teaspoon ras el hanout. In a 12-inch skillet over medium- high, heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil until barely smoking. Add the chicken and cook until browned on the bottom; transfer to a plate. Add 4 medium garlic cloves (thinly sliced) and 2 teaspoons ras el hanout; cook over medium, stirring, until fragrant. Stir in ½ cup dry sherry and 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses; bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in ½ cup dried apricots (chopped) and a 15½-ounce can chickpeas (rinsed and drained). Nestle in the chicken, browned Pasta with Italian Sausage, sides up, and add any juices. Cover, reduce Cambodian-Style Rice to low and cook until a skewer inserted into Tomatoes and Eggplant the chicken meets no resistance. Transfer Noodle Salad with Shrimp, n a large pot over medium-high, combine the chicken to a serving dish. Cook the sauce Cucumber and Herbs 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, over medium-high until slightly thickened. I ring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, 1 small Off heat, stir in 1 tablespoon grated lemon 8 ounces rice vermicelli noodles and red onion (finely chopped) and1½ teaspoons zest, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and B cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain in kosher salt. Cover and cook, stirring only 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses. a colander, then rinse under cold running once or twice, until the tomatoes begin to Taste and season with salt and pepper. Pour water, tossing, until fully cooled. Drain burst, 5 to 7 minutes. Add 8 ounces hot or over the chicken and sprinkle with chopped again. Use kitchen shears to snip the noodles sweet Italian sausage (casings removed) fresh cilantro. ◆ and cook, uncovered and using a wooden in several places to cut them into shorter spoon to break up the meat and tomatoes, lengths. Transfer to a large bowl; set aside. until the sausage is no longer pink, 2 to In the colander, toss 1 English cucumber 3 minutes. Stir in 1 pound eggplant (peeled (halved lengthwise, seeded and thinly sliced and cut into ¾-inch cubes). Add 1 quart into half moons) and 1 medium shallot water and bring to a boil. Stir in 1 pound (halved and thinly sliced) with 1 teaspoon campanelle, gemelli or cavatappi kosher salt. Let drain in the sink for pasta, ¾ teaspoon grated nutmeg and about 5 minutes. In a small bowl, stir ½ teaspoon black pepper. Cover, reduce to together 1 cup roasted peanuts (finely medium and cook, stirring occasionally and chopped), 6 tablespoons lime juice, maintaining a vigorous simmer, until the 1 Fresno or Thai chili (stemmed, seeded pasta is al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Taste and and minced), 3 tablespoons fish sauce, season with salt and pepper, then stir in 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar and 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil (torn if 2 teaspoons ground black pepper. Add the large). Serve drizzled with additional oil and cucumber-shallot mixture, 1 pound cooked sprinkled with finely gratedParmesan or shrimp (roughly chopped) and 1½ cups pecorino Romano cheese. ◆ chopped fresh cilantro, mint and/or basil to the bowl with the noodles. Add the

All featured recipes make 4 servings dressing and toss well. ◆ Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

4 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

Dinner. Fast. Bold. Casual.

Stir-Fried Chili-Garlic Beef Korean Chicken Salad ut 1 pound beef sirloin tips or flat-iron (Dak Naengchae) steak with the grain into 2-inch pieces, C 8 ounces trimmed green beans then thinly slice each piece against the grain. ook in a In a medium bowl, stir the steak together Cmedium saucepan of boiling salted water with 1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce until bright green and crisp-tender, about and 1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns 3 minutes. Drain, then chill in a bowl of ice (ground). In a small bowl, stir together water for 1 minute. Drain, then pat dry, cut another 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 4 table- in half and set aside. In a blender, process spoons neutral oil, 3 tablespoons chili-­ ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon pine nuts to a coarse garlic sauce, 5 medium garlic cloves (finely paste, scraping the sides as needed, about grated), 4 teaspoons unseasoned rice 20 seconds. Add ¼ cup water, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil yellow mustard, 1 tablespoon gochujang, and 1 teaspoon white sugar. In a 12-inch 2 tablespoons lemon juice and ¾ teaspoon nonstick skillet over medium-high, heat kosher salt. Blend until smooth and pourable, about 30 seconds. In a medium bowl, toss 3 cups sliced or shredded cooked chicken Shrimp and Couscous with about ½ cup of the dressing, then taste and season with salt. In another medium with Tomatoes and bowl, toss together 3 cups shredded red Toasted Almonds cabbage, the green beans, 1 cup cherry tomatoes (halved), ½ English cucumber n a large pot over medium, heat 3 table­ (halved lengthwise and thinly sliced spoons extra-virgin olive oil until I crosswise), the remaining dressing and shimmering. Add ½ cup sliced almonds and ¾ teaspoon salt. Transfer the vegetables to cook, stirring, until golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small bowl; set aside. To a serving platter. Spoon the chicken over 3 tablespoons the oil remaining in the pot, add 1 medium the center and sprinkle with pine nuts 2 scallions yellow onion (chopped), 4 medium garlic and (thinly sliced). ◆ cloves (chopped), ¼ teaspoon cinnamon, 1 cup finely choppedfresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and stems, 1½ teaspoons kosher salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper. Cook over medium, stirring often, until the onion 1 tablespoon neutral oil until barely smoking. has softened. Stir in a 28-ounce can diced Add half the beef in an even layer and cook fire-­roasted tomatoes with juices and without stirring until well browned. Stir, 1½ cups water, then bring to a boil over scraping the pan, and cook until no pink medium-­high. Stir in ¾ cup couscous and remains; transfer to a plate. Using the fat 1½ pounds extra-large shrimp (peeled, left in the pan, repeat with the remaining tails removed and deveined). Return to a beef. In the empty skillet over medium, heat boil, then cover, remove from the heat and 1 tablespoon neutral oil until barely smoking. let stand until the couscous is tender and Add 1 medium red onion (halved and sliced) the shrimp are opaque throughout. Stir to and 1 large bell pepper (thinly sliced), then combine and fluff the couscous, then taste cook, stirring, until just softened. Stir in the and season with salt and pepper. Transfer soy sauce mixture and any beef juices. Cook, the couscous and shrimp to a serving dish. stirring, until the liquid has thickened. Remove Sprinkle with ¼ cup roughly chopped from the heat and stir in the beef; sprinkle parsley leaves and the almonds, then

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:with Christine Tobin chopped cilantro. ◆ drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil. ◆

5 The Best of Milk Street 2020

In Maria Grazia Di Lauro’s kitchen, a surprise ingredient transforms a simple zucchini salad

winding, rutted dirt road sesame and poppy seeds. This salad is A cuts through a dry landscape, acre A Story of Love and Zucchini our deconstructed version of that dish. upon acre of stark punctuated only We seed the zucchini so the soft cores by the dark green of grape vines and Story by J.M. Hirsch don’t release liquid that would dilute knotted, leafless olive trees. It makes the other flavors. Toasted sesame seeds the blaze of white that is Masseria and chopped pistachios add richness, Potenti that much more stunning, a along with a crisp, nutty texture to bold stroke that at once blinds and contrast the zucchini and ricotta. cools under the intense Puglian sun. Don’t marinate the zucchini for Here in the heel of the Italian boot, longer than 15 minutes or the slices masseria are fortified farms, high- will turn limp. —Courtney Hill walled compounds from another era. When Maria Grazia Di Lauro bought 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, plus the 14th-century Masseria Potenti 2 tablespoons lemon juice outside Manduria, it had been empty 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary for 100 years. Today, the bed-and- 1 teaspoon honey breakfast’s vibrantly whitewashed Kosher salt and ground black arched ceilings and sprawling, lush pepper courtyards give no sign of such neglect. 2 medium zucchini (about Di Lauro had invited me for a 8 ounces each) lesson in Puglian cooking, a hard- 2 tablespoons pistachios, finely scrabble variant of cucina povera built chopped from robust pastas, plentiful produce 1 teaspoon sesame seeds and ample olive oil. She has been cook- ½ cup whole-milk ricotta cheese ing since she was 5—“It is impossible 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, to study to be a good chef. You are plus more to serve born.”—but ignored her passion for a Lemon zest and juice brighten tender zucchini slices and creamy ricotta. ½ cup lightly packed fresh mint, career in law until she and her hus- roughly chopped band renovated the masseria. explosion of fresh, bright, herbal and crunchy, creamy, minty and fresh. ½ cup chives cut into 1-inch lengths Standing at a rustic wooden ban- citrus that I can’t stop eating. Back at Milk Street, we were smit- Flaky sea salt, to serve (optional) quet table in an alcove off the main For the second dish, she slices a ten with both of Di Lauro’s takes on courtyard, Di Lauro kneads dough zucchini lengthwise into thin strips, raw zucchini and decided to combine ■ In a large bowl, whisk together the for what will become a folded and wrapping them around a mixture of them into one simple salad. Thinly lemon juice, rosemary, honey, ¾ tea- stuffed focaccia while explaining that fresh ricotta, lemon zest, fresh rose- sliced raw zucchini tossed with herb- spoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. the masseria was supposed to be a mary, olive oil and salt, dipping one flecked lemon juice evoked the fresh- Halve the zucchini lengthwise, then family retreat. But friends and family end of each roll in sesame seeds, the ness of the first dish, while a topping use a spoon to scrape out and discard visited so often for the beauty—and other in poppy seeds. Topped with of ricotta with lemon zest, fresh mint the seeds. Slice the zucchini ⅛ to her cooking—it simply made sense to fresh mint, they are amazing—salty, and a scattering of seeds and nuts ¼ inch thick on the diagonal, then toss turn it into a business. brought in the second. with the lemon juice mixture. Let stand As she carefully folds the focaccia The result was as bright and won- for 15 minutes, tossing once or twice. dough plumply around a heap of derful as Masseria Potenti itself. And ■ Meanwhile, in an 8-inch skillet roasted zucchini, peppers, eggplant, as for that focaccia? With Di Lauro’s over medium, combine the pistachios raisins, onions and mozzarella, more words, you can imagine how good it and sesame seeds. Toast, stirring often, of her culinary philosophy spills out. was. “In the kitchen if you give love, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Set “If you have no fantasy, you have no the food you prepare gives love.” aside to cool. In a small bowl, stir good food.” It’s easy to fantasize as the together the ricotta, oil, lemon zest aromas of baking bread, melting cheese Zucchini Salad with Lemon, and ¼ teaspoon salt. To the zucchini, and savory herbs rise around us. Herbs and Ricotta ■ add the mint While we wait for the focaccia, and chives, then toss. Taste and sea- Di Lauro prepares two zucchini dishes, Start to finish: 35 minutes | Servings: 4 son with salt and pepper. Transfer almost as afterthoughts. The first is t masseria potenti in Puglia, to a serving platter and dollop the the simplest of salads. Raw zucchini A Italy, we tasted an unforgetta- ricotta mixture on top. Scatter on the shredded and tossed with fresh mint, ble starter featuring thin slices of fresh pistachio-sesame mixture, then driz- lemon juice, ample extra-virgin olive “If you have no fantasy, you have zucchini rolled around a lemony ricotta zle with additional oil and sprinkle oil, salt and pepper. That’s it. It’s an no good food.” Maria Grazia Di Lauro filling and dipped, cannoli-like, into with flaky sea salt (if using). ◆ Photos: Christopher Warde-Jones (bottom); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin

6 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

the spices and tames the pungency of the aromatics, yielding a sauce that Sweet and tastes full and round. Tangy Chicken —Courtney Hill ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons white Vindaloo vinegar, divided The subtle power of 12 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled sweet chili 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and transforms roughly chopped 2 tablespoons sweet paprika this Indian classic 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar 4 whole cloves or ⅛ teaspoon Story by J.M. Hirsch ground cloves 2½ teaspoons ground turmeric patchwork of dusty browns 2 teaspoons cumin seeds A and grays assembled from low- ½ to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper slung corrugated metal slums pock- ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon marked by fatigued half-built high-­ Kosher salt and ground black pepper rises, Mumbai can appear washed 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken out, drained of color. But if you close thighs, trimmed and halved your eyes and trust your nose, there 2 tablespoons grapeseed or are bold technicolor pops to be found, other neutral oil an aromatic chaos as delicious as it With mild heat and tangy-sweet flavor, chicken vindaloo is weeknight easy. Fresno or jalapeño chilies, stemmed is overwhelming. and sliced into thin rings, to serve Syrupy heaps of mangos warm- taught me chicken vindaloo. This pepper and sweet paprika. Less evoc- Fresh cilantro leaves, to serve ing under intense sun. Bracing fresh- classic dish with Portuguese origins ative than piston-pounded chili pow- ness from mounds of cilantro and deliciously blends tons of mild chil- der, perhaps. But almost as delicious. ■ In a blender, combine ¼ cup vinegar, mint. Wafts of sharp citrus from piles ies with brightly acidic vinegar to garlic, ginger, paprika, sugar, cloves, of lemons and limes. Kettles of milky create a sauce in which meat—tradi- Chicken Vindaloo turmeric, cumin, cayenne, cinnamon, teas simmering with floral cardamom. tionally pork, but increasingly any 1¼ teaspoons each salt and pepper, And my favorite: the gently tingling meat—first marinates, then cooks. Start to finish: 1 hour 20 minutes and 3 tablespoons water. Puree until sweet heat of Kashmiri chilies, north- The lesson is simple. In a blender, Servings: 4 smooth, scraping the blender as needed. ern India’s go-to brick-red seasoning she purees a host of spices—cumin, indaloo, an indian dish of Pour into a medium bowl, add the used liberally across the cuisine. turmeric, peppercorns, cinnamon and V Portuguese influence, typically chicken and toss to coat. Let stand at In one small village, that aroma cloves with garlic, a bit of sugar and is associated with the state of Goa on room temperature for 15 minutes. is paired with a rhythmic pounding more than a dozen dried chilies that India’s southwestern coast, but the ■ In a large Dutch oven over you feel in your chest. In a shed no had soaked in vinegar. The result is a curry is popular the world over. Vin- medium, heat the oil until shimmer- larger than a closet, a man stoops thick paste that is bright red and sweetly daloo, which often is made with lamb ing. Add the chicken and marinade before an ancient machine driving aromatic. After the chicken soaks in or chicken, is notable for tangy flavor in an even layer. Cook without stir- steel pistons over and again into the this, the entire batch—meat and mar- from vinegar, a generous dose of gar- ring until the marinade has browned ground, grinding those dried chilies inade—goes into the skillet to cook. lic and the gentle spice of dried chil- and the chicken releases easily from into powder, every thud threatening It’s that simple. It’s on the table in ies. The Kashmiri chilies used in India the pot, 5 to 9 minutes. Stir, then add to take off the man’s fingers. It’s mes- minutes. It’s addictive. The flavors are vibrantly colored with moderate ⅓ cup water and bring to a simmer. merizing and terrifying. are deep, tasting of mildly sweet chili heat; we found a mixture of sweet Cover, reduce to medium-low and Those chilies appeared on repeat, heat and warm paprika, balanced by paprika and cayenne to be a good cook, stirring occasionally, until a perfuming, dying and flavoring so sugar and tangy vinegar. The chicken substitute. If you order Kashmiri chili skewer inserted into the chicken meets much of what I ate during a weeklong is savory and tender, with cilantro powder online, substitute 4 teaspoons no resistance, 35 to 45 minutes. exploration of the city’s food. It was a keeping everything fresh and bal- for the paprika and cayenne. Serve ■ Stir in the remaining 2 table- valuable reminder that chilies don’t anced. A one-­skillet meal that packs with basmati rice. spoons vinegar, increase to medium need to add heat. The right chilies— an impossible amount of flavor. Don’t worry if the chicken sticks and cook, stirring often, until the or blends of chilies—can instead At Milk Street, Misquitta’s recipe to the pot immediately after it is sauce is thick enough that a spoon impart sweet, floral flavor backed by was easy to replicate but for one added. Allow it to cook undisturbed, drawn through leaves a trail, about a gentle warmth, a combination that thing: Kashmiri chilies aren’t com- and it eventually will release with 8 minutes. Taste and season with salt marries so well with so many foods. mon in the U.S. The powder is avail- ease. And don’t be afraid to allow the and pepper. Transfer to a serving My real lesson in this came from able online, but for ease we developed chicken and puree to brown as they dish and sprinkle with sliced chilies

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:Rumya Christine Tobin Misquitta, a home cook who our recipe using a blend of cayenne cook. This brings out the flavors in and cilantro. ◆

7 The Best of Milk Street 2020

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] In Oaxaca, carnitas are cooked like confit and finished with chunks of chicharrones and the bright flavors of pickled onions, avocado salsa and fresh cilantro

Story by Christopher Kimball and onion. The pork is served as a taco with chicharrones (pork rind was sitting across a picnic The Fires of Oaxaca cracklings), along with avocado table from Jesús Ochoa, sous salsa, pickled onions and cilantro. chef at Criollo restaurant in What was surprising, besides how IOaxaca, taking notes as fast I bright and pungent it tasted, was could, trying to parse out the secrets that the pork was not crispy—it of carnitas. Ochoa is young, open- was soft like any good confit. Instead, faced and soft-­spoken, dressed in a Ochoa let the chicharrones add dark Criollo shirt with a matching the crunch. apron, and perfectly at ease around food and fire. It was a sunny morn- ere at milk street, we ing, the restaurant slowly coming H needed some culinary transla- to life for lunch service, and we tion to make carnitas work in a were seated in a large walled-in gar- home kitchen. We kept the flavor den with chickens running amok profile (oregano, thyme, garlic and and an outdoor cooking area cov- onion), but the eight-hour confit ered with plastic tarps. had to be rethought. We opted to Dried leaves on the roof started braise pork butt in oil and water to smolder and were raked off casu- (1 cup each) in a moderate oven for ally, as if the occasional fire is part three hours. This gave us some of and parcel of outdoor cooking. The the benefits of confit in less than cook fire was started with 3-foot half the time. If we had chichar- lengths of dry kindling. After an rones, then crisping the pork would hour, they had a solid base of coals, not be necessary, but since this was and Ochoa placed a black metal not an option, we followed com- cooking grate over the top. By the mon carnitas procedure by crisping garden wall, another cook was chunks of pork in a nonstick skillet roasting peppers, garlic and onion for a few minutes to improve the on a large comal. She then moved texture. (You can flip the pork over on to blue corn tortillas, stacking after a few minutes and do both them for service. Oaxaca has a soft, sides if you like carnitas extra- easy pace to it: wood smoke, dried crispy.) We also offer a quick recipe leaves, chickens underfoot, soft win- for pickled onions, as it was served ter light—it’s rhythmic and lulling. in Oaxaca. And we agree that fresh Ochoa prepares carnitas much cilantro and an avocado salsa are like a confit. (Most meat dishes in the perfect accompaniments. A few Oaxaca call for precooking the meat sliced radishes, as they offered in in a pressure cooker or simmering Oaxaca, also make a nice addition. it in water.) He marinates it over- In Oaxaca, fire is still at the night using 35 grams of salt (about foundation of culinary tradition, 2 tablespoons) per 5 liters of water, whether to heat a comal and char plus garlic, onion and other sea- vegetables and chilies, or to place sonings. Then the pork is cooked a skillet directly on or over the in oil in a glazed earthenware pot coals. It’s a reminder that cooking at 225°F for eight hours along with At Oaxaca’s Criollo restaurant, sous chef Jesús Ochoa and other staffers in the 21st century may be easier, garlic, thyme, pepper, oregano, cumin are experts at cooking carnitas and other dishes over a wood fire. but it certainly isn’t any better. ◆ Kimball Christopher Photos:

8 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Carnitas

Start to finish: 4 hours (45 minutes Don’t trim the fat from the active) | Servings: 4 to 6 pork shoulder. The pork should uthentic mexican render its fat in the oven. And carnitas involves slow­- after cooking, don’t discard the A cooking pork in lard until fat you skim off the cooking fall-apart tender. In the U.S., liquid—you’ll need some of it to however, carnitas usually is made crisp the shredded pork in a hot by simmering pork in liquid, skillet. —Diane Unger then shredding the meat. The result is moist and tender, but 5 to 6 pounds boneless pork lacks intense porkiness as well as butt, not trimmed, cut into the crisping that makes carnitas 2-inch cubes so delicious. Our method melds 1 large yellow onion, halved the two techniques. We braise and thinly sliced cubes of pork shoulder in 1 cup 10 medium garlic cloves, each water and oil until the meat smashed and peeled is fork-tender. We then break the 2 tablespoons ground cumin pork into smaller pieces, moisten 2 tablespoons ground coriander it with the reduced juices, and fry 2 teaspoons dried oregano it. If you have a fat separator, it ½ teaspoon dried thyme makes quick work of removing 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes Our carnitas recipe yields pork that is both meltingly tender and crispy. the fat from the cooking liquid: Kosher salt and ground black pour the liquid into it after pepper fat as possible; reserve the fat. removing the pork from the pot, 1 cup grapeseed or other Bring the defatted cooking liquid Pickled Red Onions then return the defatted cook- neutral oil to a simmer over medium-­high ing liquid to the pot, but remem- and cook, stirring occasionally, Start to finish: 10 minutes, ber to reserve the fat. You can ■ Heat the oven to 325°F with a until reduced to about ⅓ cup, plus chilling Makes about 2 cups cook, shred and moisten the pork rack in the lower-middle position. about 5 minutes. Set aside. with the reduced cooking liquid In a large (at least 7-quart) Dutch ■ When the meat is cool enough 1 cup white vinegar up to three days in advance; fry oven, stir together the pork, onion, to handle, break the chunks into 2 teaspoons white sugar the pork just before serving so it’s garlic, cumin, coriander, oregano, ¾- to 1-inch pieces, discarding Kosher salt hot and crisp. If you like your thyme, pepper flakes and 2 tea- any large pieces of fat. Return the 2 medium red onions, halved carnitas extra-crisp, after brown- spoons salt. Stir in the oil and pork to the pot and stir until and thinly sliced ing the first side, use the spatula 1 cup water. Cover, transfer to evenly moistened with the reduced 1 jalapeño chili, stemmed, to flip the pork and cook until the the oven and cook for 3 hours. cooking liquid. halved lengthwise and second side is well browned and ■ Remove the pot from the oven. ■ In a nonstick 12-inch skillet seeded crisp. You can serve carnitas Stir the pork and return the pot, over medium-high, heat 1 tea- simply with rice and beans or uncovered, to the oven. Cook until spoon of the reserved fat until ■ In a medium bowl, combine the make tacos with warmed corn a skewer inserted into the meat barely smoking. Add the pork vinegar, sugar and 2 teaspoons salt, tortillas. Either way, pickled red meets no resistance, another in an even layer and cook with- then stir until the salt and sugar onions (recipe follows) are a 30 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, out stirring, pressing the meat dissolve. Stir in the onions and jala- must—their sharp acidity per- transfer the meat to a rimmed against the skillet with a spatula, peño. Cover and refrigerate for at fectly balances the richness of the baking sheet in an even layer to until the bottom begins to brown least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. ◆ pork. Also offer sliced radishes cool. Tilt the pot to pool the cook- and the pork is heated through, and salsa, such as our tomatillo-­ ing liquid to one side, then use a 3 to 5 minutes. Taste and season For Avocado Salsa recipe, go to avocado salsa (see link). wide spoon to skim off as much with salt and pepper. 177milkstreet.com/MJ20/carnitas Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

9 The Best of Milk Street 2020

butteriness of burrata cheese. Fresh basil and parsley, left as leaves rather Yes, creamy mozzarella than chopped, are tossed into the salad just before serving to add vibrant does belong in a bread color and summery fragrance as well as fresh herbal flavor. and tomato salad Don’t forget to salt the tomatoes as the first step. This ensures they are seasoned throughout, which is espe- The New cially important if they aren’t at the peak of ripeness. It also softens their Panzanella texture. Don’t use regular mozzarella cheese. It’s important to use fresh mozzarella, often sold packed in water. —Courtney Hill

1½ pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into 1-inch chunks Kosher salt and ground black pepper ½ small red onion, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar 8 ounces crusty white bread, sliced ½ inch thick and torn into bite-size pieces (about 8 cups) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, “Ruffage” author Abra Berens’ panzanella balances dairy richness with fresh, sweet tomatoes and tangy onions. plus more to serve 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese Story by Albert Stumm tossing in handfuls of wild herbs as if salted the tomatoes, which ensured 2 tablespoons heavy cream they were salad greens. they were thoroughly seasoned and 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest ssembling the perfect pan- Berens started with the tomatoes. would release juices to help dress the 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil Azanella—that classic salad of Her recipe calls for splashing them other ingredients. ½ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf rustic bread doused in olive oil and with vinegar to heighten their acid- We didn’t want to turn on the parsley the juices of sweet summer toma- ity, a key flavor in balancing the bread oven for a summer salad, so we toasted toes—is no effort in Italy, where pro- and rich olive oil. the bread in a skillet before adding it ■ In a large bowl, toss the tomatoes duce is practically a Platonic form. She also made sure the bread was to the tomatoes. The warm bread, with 1 teaspoon salt; set aside. In a Here in the U.S., not so lucky. well toasted, which both primes it for torn into irregular pieces, haphaz- small bowl, stir together the red onion, So at Milk Street, we knew that soaking up more of the oil and juices ardly soaked up the flavor of the vinegar and ¼ teaspoon salt; set aside. getting reliable results would mean and ensures it has crispness that con- released juices, leaving contrasting ■ In a 12-inch skillet over medium, rebuilding this iconic dish to find trasts with the other, more tender crunchy, chewy and soggy pieces. toss the bread with the oil and ½ tea- fresh ways to deliver the same ingredients. Berens compares it to With a drizzle of olive oil, copi- spoon salt. Cook, stirring occasion- vibrant flavors and satisfying tex- the bread in French onion soup, ous herbs and Berens’ mozzarella, ally, until crisp and light golden brown, tures. To do that, we started by which sports comforting soft bits our take on her panzanella is perfec- 4 to 8 minutes. Immediately transfer looking back at the salad’s origins balanced by crunchy-crispy edges. tion, even when our produce isn’t. to the bowl with the tomatoes and and how chef, farmer and “Ruffage” “Soggy bread is so good,” she says. toss. Let stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, using your hands, author Abra Berens used that infor- Then she took a nontraditional Tomato and Bread Salad with ■ mation to reinvent it. turn. She has a hack for turning Herbs and Mozzarella tear the mozzarella into bite-size First recorded in medieval Italian basic supermarket mozzarella into a chunks and add to a small bowl. Stir texts as pan lavato, or “washed bread,” burrata-­like cheese simply by tearing Start to finish: 40 minutes | Servings: 4 in the cream, lemon zest and ¼ tea- panzanella historically was made it into pieces and tossing it with his version of the classic Italian spoon each salt and pepper. from little more than day-old bread heavy cream and lemon zest. Adding T bread salad known as panzanella ■ Using a slotted spoon or tongs, that was soaked in water and this to her panzanella pushed the was inspired by a version from transfer the onion to the tomato-­ squeezed dry, then crumbled and salad entirely over the top. “Ruffage” author Abra Berens. We bread mixture, reserving the vine- mixed with olive oil and whatever For our version, we kept most of tear the bread into pieces to create gar. Add the parsley and basil, then vegetables were available. When toma- Berens’ ideas. One difference: Instead more texture. We also quick-pickle toss. Taste and season with salt, pep- toes entered Italian cuisine, they of adding vinegar to the tomatoes, we red onion in sherry vinegar to add per and some of the reserved vinegar, added a balancing sweet acidity. used it to quick-pickle red onions, sharp bites of acidity. Finally, we if needed. Transfer to a serving dish, Eventually, cooks further improved which added the same bright acidic soak pieces of fresh mozzarella in then top with the cheese and a gener- the dish by toasting the bread and pop, but also a light crunch. We also cream to add richness and mimic the ous drizzle of oil. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

10 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ]

Stretched across thousands of tall bamboo mats, sheets of rice noodles dry under intense sun in a northern Ho Chi Minh City suburb.

t a distance, the field before pulling it from its mat and at the outskirts of Ho tearing it into 3-foot squares. Chi Minh City resem- Lacquered, Sweet The squares pile by the hundreds, A bles a sea of solar pan- later to be fed by the men one at a els, staring by the thousands from and Savory: Vietnamese time into decades-old belt-driven a muddy-grassy grid into a blis- slicers that deliver fine, glassy- tering sun. Closer, and patterns white threads of noodles into the emerge. Row upon row of irides- Caramel Sauce hands of the women sitting and cent sheets taut over bamboo the art of bagging below. frames resting against rough- Peter Franklin teaches us After the war, the grandfather hewn supports, glowing as they melding sweet and savory had the chance to move to the U.S. reach skyward. Closer still, and But not all of his children quali- you see the imprint of basketwoven fied to join him, so instead he Story by J.M. Hirsch fibers through the still-tacky film, stayed on with the family busi- irregular and organic. ness. A business today at risk as In Vietnam, this is an endan- development encroaches on the gered art. Rice noodles dried by field where for generations they the sun, sliced by hand. Seven days have dried their noodles. a week for more than 60 years, Watching it all is mesmeriz- the Diêp family has risen at 3 a.m., ing. And I’m honored when they children, parents and grandpar- sweep the patio of stray strands of ents smearing a milky slurry of noodle and invite me to share ground white rice and water over their lunch. We sit cross-legged innumerable massive bamboo on the floor and with chopsticks screens, then carting them by pick from communal bowls of scooter to bake in a field that stir-fry with broccoli, carrots and smells of white glue and rice. beef; pickled cucumbers; tiny hard- By noon, wearing coats to cooked eggs with fish sauce and shield themselves from the sun, chili peppers; boiled chunks of they hoist the heavy mats into bitter melon; ample white rice. towering stacks and roll them Everything is delicious. But home. Under a covered patio, most notable is the persistent push- they rub each elastic sheet with oil Peter Franklin transforms sugar into a simple savory-sweet caramel. pull between Continued on page 12 Photos: Christopher Warde-Jones Christopher Photos:

11 The Best of Milk Street 2020

In Th Tr n Hóc Môn, a district in the northern suburbs of Ho Chi Minh City, the Diêp family gets up at 3 a.m. every day seven days a week to prepare rice noodles by hand. They begin by simmering a slurry of white rice and water over a wood fire, then spread it across 8-by-3-foot woven bamboo mats. The mats are hauled down the street to a field, where they dry in the sun for four hours. Back at their home, the family peels the tacky sheets of noodle from the mats, tears them into squares, then feeds them through slicers to create filaments of milky-white noodles to be bagged and sold. sweet and savory that defines each basics, which are both more and ¼ cup white sugar—favored for its ack at milk street, this dish, a careful balance of flavors less intuitive than I expected. clean flavor that enhances rather Bwas an easy recipe to adapt. We that teases in your mouth, leaving “Western cooking is what I call than competes with other ingredi- stuck by Franklin’s skillet method you never quite sure which it is. ‘salt management.’ Southeast Asian ents—and a splash of water. The and most of his ingredients. We’d Naturally sweet vegetables—often cooking is much more complex,” mixture quickly darkens to a rich, seen several cooks use coconut enhanced by a bit of sugar—in a says Franklin, who was adopted from not-quite-burnt caramel. Most cooks water instead of regular to make tug-of-war with the deep salty- Vietnam in the ’70s and grew up in don’t darken it enough, he says, the caramel, a subtle swap we liked, umami of fish sauce. The effect is the U.S., but returned after a career creating more of a simple sugar but that hardly is essential. We also simple and addictive. in business and culinary school water than the rich, barely bitter favored the addition of the ginger abroad. “You need to know how to caramel the recipe needs. and chilies, which further light- hat contrast turns out to balance the sweet and sour and To it, he adds savory-salty fish ened and brightened the sauce. Tbe a defining characteristic of salty and savory, and even bitter.” sauce—a flavoring played on loop In Vietnam, lemon grass is fresh, Vietnamese cuisine, one I’d encoun- He makes his point at the stove, in Vietnam—as well as lime juice tender and vibrant, which allowed ter repeatedly as I ate my way across where in a small skillet he heats and finely minced lemon grass. I Franklin to mince it and add it Ho Chi Minh City. In fact, it’s a taste a spoonful and the combina- directly to the sauce. In the U.S., flavor combination so revered, there’s tion explodes in my mouth. Sweet. it tends to be drier and tougher, an entire family of recipes that It’s obvious why this Sour. Bitter. Savory. Herbal. Citrus. though still flavorful. We found it bathe meat and fish in a sizzling Into this, he adds a hefty strip of best to bruise it, simmer it in the sweet-and-savory lacquer of cara- pork—thịt kho tộ— fatty pork belly, basting it thickly sauce, then discard it. This allowed mel. And I was smitten with how is iconic. The flavor before popping it under the broiler it to flavor the caramel without leav- easily those recipes pull such is sweet and rich, for just a few minutes. ing fibrous bits behind. deep, rich flavors from a handful of It’s obvious why this pork—thịt At Franklin’s suggestion, we simple ingredients. balanced by bitter kho tộ—is iconic. The flavor is sweet tested our sauce with multiple pro- For a lesson in caramel sauce caramel, brightened and rich, balanced by the bitter car- teins. Chicken thighs, pork tender- cooking, I turned to Peter Franklin, amel, brightened by lime juice and loin and salmon were our favorites. owner of Ănăn Saigon, a cutting-edge by the lime juice lemon grass. Best yet—its sauce is And all were sturdy enough to be restaurant where traditional Viet- and lemon grass. so versatile. Vietnamese cooks hap- cooked directly in the sauce in the namese cooking is respected, but pily prepare all manner of proteins skillet, making this a one-pan, also updated. In his sleek, open Vietnamese cooks in this sauce, sometimes heighten- weeknight-friendly meal that boasts kitchen hidden within the chaos of ing the flavor with fresh ginger and flavors far more complex than the the Tôn Thất Đạm street market, happily use the sauce chilies. Chicken, white fish, salmon, ingredients and effort suggest. Even

Franklin walks me through the on nearly everything. shrimp, all taste amazing. without sun-dried noodles. ◆ Warde-Jones Christopher Photos:

12 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] he classic Vietnamese cook, stirring occasionally, until technique of simmering the sauce reduces and clings to the T meat or fish in dark, bitter- chicken, 10 to 14 minutes. sweet caramel mixed with fish ■ Remove from the heat, then dis- sauce and a few aromatics yields card the lemon grass. Stir in the rich, wonderfully complex savory- lime juice. Transfer to a serving dish sweet flavors. And the technique and sprinkle with the scallions. could hardly be simpler. Instead of a traditional clay pot, we use a V ariations 12-inch skillet to make our version ◆ ◆ of gà kho, or caramel-simmered Vietnamese chicken, and we cook the chicken Caramel Pork Tenderloin until the sauce forms a glaze, as we were taught in Vietnam. Bruising ut two 1¼-pound pork tender- the lemon grass releases its flavor loins (trimmed of silver skin) and fragrance, but since the stalk C in half lengthwise, then crosswise is still whole, it is easy to remove into ½-inch-thick pieces. Follow and discard before serving. The the recipe to make the caramel and simplest way to bruise it is with the cook the chilies, lemon grass, blunt side of the blade of a chef’s ginger and pepper. Add the pork knife or the butt end of the handle. and cook, stirring often,until just Serve the chicken with steamed cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. jasmine rice. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the Don’t be shy when cooking pork to a medium bowl, then con- the caramel. Allow it to darken tinue to cook the caramel mixture, deeply—a smoky, bitter caramel is stirring occasionally, until thick- what gives this dish depth of fla- ened to the consistency of honey, vor. It should reach a mahogany about 2 minutes. Off heat, return hue and will smoke lightly when the pork to the skillet and stir to ready. —Bianca Borges coat. Discard the lemon grass, then stir in the lime juice. Trans- ¼ cup white sugar fer to a serving dish and sprinkle 4 tablespoons coconut water or Caramel chicken is richly savory-sweet with bright pops from ginger. with the scallions. water, divided 3 tablespoons fish sauce 2 Fresno or serrano chilies, Vietnamese Caramel Chicken Vietnamese stemmed and sliced into thin Caramel Salmon rings Start to finish: 40 minutes | Servings: 4 to 6 1 stalk lemon grass, trimmed to ut 2 pounds 1-inch-thick the lower 5 or 6 inches and ■ In a 12-inch skillet, combine the coconut water; the mixture will C skinless salmon fillets into bruised (see note) sugar and 2 tablespoons of the bubble vigorously and the caramel 1½-inch cubes. Follow the recipe 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh coconut water. Cook over medium-­ will harden in spots. Bring to a to make the caramel and cook the ginger high, occasionally swirling the pan simmer over medium and cook, chilies, lemon grass, ginger and 1 teaspoon ground black pepper to help the sugar dissolve and to stirring, until the hardened bits pepper. Add the salmon and cook, 2 pounds boneless, skinless encourage even browning, until have dissolved. Add the chilies, stirring often, until the salmon is chicken thighs, trimmed and the caramel is mahogany in color lemon grass, ginger and pepper, just opaque throughout, 5 to 6 min- cut into 1½-inch pieces and smokes lightly, 4 to 6 minutes. then cook, stirring, until fragrant, utes. Discard the lemon grass, then 1 tablespoon lime juice ■ Remove the pan from the heat about 30 seconds. Increase to stir in the lime juice. Transfer to 2 scallions, thinly sliced on the and add the fish sauce along medium-high and stir in the a serving dish and sprinkle with

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin diagonal with the remaining 2 tablespoons chicken. Bring to a simmer and the scallions. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

13 The Best of Milk Street 2020

For serving: We cracked the code for Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika creamier, crunchier ■ To make the potatoes, heat the roasted potatoes oven to 450°F with a rack in the mid- dle position. Pour ⅓ cup oil onto a rimmed baking sheet and tilt to Stop Settling coat; set aside. In a large microwave-­ safe bowl, combine the potatoes and for Dull ¼ cup water. Cover loosely and micro- wave on high until just shy of tender, Potatoes about 8 minutes, stirring once about halfway through. Story by Albert Stumm ■ Drain the potatoes, spread them on a kitchen towel and pat dry. Dry line snakes out the door at the bowl and return the potatoes to the A Senyor Vermut, where the crowd bowl. Sprinkle with the cornstarch clinks glasses of sweet vermouth, a Our patatas bravas are dressed with a bold paprika sauce and garlicky mayo. and 1½ teaspoons salt, then toss until Sunday afternoon tradition in Barce- evenly coated. Drizzle with the remain- lona. And here, that vermouth usu- minced shallot, sherry vinegar and interiors and ultracrisp exteriors ing 1 tablespoon oil and toss again. ally is washing down one of Spain’s vermouth. We stirred smoked paprika without the hassle of deep-frying. Distribute in an even layer on the top tapas, patatas bravas: deep-fried in only after cooking to preserve its Don’t use lower-starch pota- prepared baking sheet and roast until chunks of potato drizzled with spicy aroma, then also tossed the spice toes. For crispness, it’s important deeply browned and well crisped, paprika sauce and often slathered in with the cooked potatoes. For the ali- to use high-starch russet potatoes. about 40 minutes, flipping with a alioli (the Spanish version of aioli). oli, we got great results the easy way: Also, don’t cut the potatoes into small metal spatula once halfway through. The dish varies by region. In spiking purchased mayonnaise with pieces. Larger two-bite chunks can ■ While the potatoes roast, make Madrid, alioli is all but forbidden. garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. roast long enough to achieve deep the alioli and bravas sauce. To make In Barcelona, the sauce is common, Creamy inside, crunchy outside, browning without overcooking inside. the alioli, in a small bowl, mix the sometimes infused with saffron. our bravas turned out addictive. —Rebecca Richmond garlic and lemon juice, then let stand “Here in Catalonia, there are no rules,” Perfect with a vermouth on the side. for 5 minutes. Whisk in the mayon- says Edu González, who has reviewed For the potatoes: naise, oil and ¼ teaspoon salt, then over 1,000 variations of the dish on Patatas Bravas ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra- set aside until ready to serve. his website, BravasBCN. After 11 virgin oil ■ To make the bravas sauce, in an years, Senyor Vermut is his top pick. Start to finish: 1¾ hours 3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled 8-inch skillet over medium, heat These bravas, González explains, (40 minutes active) | Servings: 6 and cut into 1½- to 2-inch chunks 2 tablespoons of the oil until shim- skew classic but are better. The pota- atatas bravas is a popular 2 tablespoons cornstarch mering. Add the shallot and cook, toes are cut small, parboiled, then PSpanish tapa. To avoid frying, Kosher salt stirring, until just beginning to soften, fried until crispy with a creamy inte- we first parcook the potatoes in about 2 minutes. Whisk in the flour, rior. The homemade alioli is garlicky the microwave, then finish them in For the alioli: cayenne and ½ teaspoon salt, then but not overpowering. The slightly the oven. This method delivers creamy 2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated cook, whisking constantly, until the spicy bravas sauce features fleeting 2 tablespoons lemon juice or sherry flour is very lightly browned, 1 to sweetness—a splash of vermouth to vinegar 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the ver- balance the hot paprika. The formula ½ cup mayonnaise mouth and ¼ cup water, followed by sells 400 kilos of potatoes a week. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil the vinegar. Whisking constantly, At Milk Street, we loved the con- Kosher salt bring to a full simmer, then remove trasts between crispy-tender potatoes, from the heat. Whisk in the paprika hot paprika and cooling alioli, but we For the bravas sauce: and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Taste hoped to skip the frying. Instead, we 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and season with salt and pepper, started them in the microwave, which divided then transfer to a serving bowl; cover speeds cooking and gelatinizes the 1 medium shallot, minced and set aside at room temperature starches in the potatoes with higher 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour until ready to serve. heat, producing creamier interiors. ½ to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper ■ When the potatoes are done, use a We then toss the parcooked potatoes Kosher salt and ground black slotted spoon to transfer them to a with cornstarch, ensuring they bake pepper serving dish. Sprinkle with the up crisp in the oven. ¼ cup sweet vermouth paprika, a big pinch of salt and black We preferred a slightly thicker Edu González’s favorite patatas 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar pepper to taste, then toss. Serve paprika sauce, spiced with cayenne, bravas are from Senyor Vermut. 1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika with the alioli and bravas sauce. ◆ Photos: Albert Stumm (bottom); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin

14 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] Italy’s Best Tomato Focaccia

he focaccia emerge With each crunchy-chewy from the oven—a truck- bite I understand all the more sized stone behemoth why his focaccia recently was T that radiates with breath- named the best in all of Italy. Less taking intensity—so quickly, the clear was how he managed to bakers at Panificio Fiore exhaust make it so good. And so different. their shelves of cooling racks, forcing them to line the pans ucked amongst the arches along the white tiled floor as they T of Pontifical Basilica di San use a 14-foot peel to rapid-fire Nicola, Panificio Fiore occupies reload and bake the next batch. a former crypt that dates to at The century-old wood-fired least 1508. Its white stone walls oven can hold 48 focaccia at once, and columns are plastered with baking them in just over 10 min- pictures of the church’s name- utes. Even then, making hun- sake St. Nicholas. dreds a day, the workers can’t A long glass display case keep pace with the lunch line that offers a dozen varieties of focac- twists out the tiny shop and down cia, many with wedges already one of the many winding stone hacked out. Bianca (just olives); alleys of Bari, a thin strip of a city cipolle e pomodoro (onion and along the Adriatic Sea on the heel tomato); melanzane e pomodoro of the Italian boot. Over and (eggplant and tomato); patate, again, they hand the focaccia to pomodoro e carciofi (potato, Antonio Fiore, whose grandfa- tomato and artichoke); and pomo- ther opened the shop in 1940. doro, formaggio e rucola (tomato, Standing at the front counter, cheese and arugula) among them. customers blurting orders at him, But the most popular—and that Fiore tosses each foot-round which the bakers today labor focaccia onto a concave stainless at—is pomodoro e olive, or tomato steel slab—designed to allow and olives. excess olive oil to drip away— Focaccia is the street food of then uses a long serrated knife to Bari, a meal intended to be eaten cut wedges to order, wrapping immediately; it is fresh for only a them in parchment before hand- few hours. Fiore complains that ing over the still-warm hunks other bakers make more and dotted with crushed tomatoes At Panificio Fiore, the focaccia is tender on top and crispy on bottom. make them faster, but that’s not and glistening whole green olives. traditional—and you can taste In the midst of the rush, he hands me a their shortcuts. To show me the right way, he thick wedge, oil staining the paper and slick- Ample helpings of olive oil guides me into the kitchen, where waves of ing my fingers. It is shockingly crispy and heat and yeast wash over you. lightly crunchy on the bottom—almost and time are the key to a As Fiore rattles off the main ingredients— shattering—yet the top remains airy-chewy flour, yeast, water, salt and olive oil—nothing and tender, with bursts of brine and juicy perfectly tender-crispy strikes me as unusual, nothing that can sweet tomato. It is unlike any focaccia I’ve account for the delicious push-and-pull of eaten, all too often singularly and unappeal- focaccia tender-crispy that makes his focaccia so mem- ingly dense and doughy, lacking texture or orably good. Turns out, the difference isn’t in definition. Fiore’s is rich with contrasts, fried Story by J.M. Hirsch the what, but in the how. Particularly, how in parts, baked in others. long and how much. Continued on page 16 Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Christopher Photo:

15 The Best of Milk Street 2020

On one side of the room, dough rises in containers the size of trash cans. The bakers— all of them family—hoist the buckets of dough, [ MILK STREET A t H ome] dumping it in large, almost oozing piles onto metal tables for portioning. The dough is tender and flabby and barely can be handled. That’s the Tomato-Olive Focaccia first clue—the ratio of water to dry ingredients clearly is higher than normal. A typical focaccia dough uses water equal to about 56 percent of the weight of flour used. Fiore’s recipe clocks in at more than 90 percent water to flour. That difference is critical because wet doughs produce weaker gluten, the protein that gives most baked goods their structure. Weak gluten tears easily, especially when all that excess moisture in the dough turns to steam in the oven. The combination creates an airy, open and more tender crumb. An equally important difference turns out to be timing. While a typical focaccia might rise for one to two hours, Fiore’s rises for four hours, during which the dough rises, falls, then rises again, a process that leaves it looking and feeling blown out. This produces more gas than a shorter rise. Though some of that gas depletes over time—resulting in less dramatic oven spring when the focaccia first hits the hot oven—the remaining gas, combined with Briny green olives and crushed cherry tomatoes add pops of flavor to tender-crispy focaccia. the steam and gluten structure, creates more and larger air pockets in the dough. Start to finish: 7¼ hours (40 minutes active), use a baking dish made of glass or ceramic; The source of the crisp bottom—not merely plus cooling | Servings: 12 neither will produce a crisp, browned exterior, browned, as with a pizza, but almost crack- his recipe recreates the light, open- and glass is not safe to use in a 500°F oven. ling—becomes clear as the dough is portioned crumbed focaccia we ate in Bari, Italy. To —Diane Unger into dark metal pans. Olive oil so copious it T achieve that texture, the dough must be wet— sloshes up the side of the dough goes into the so wet, in fact, it verges on a thick, yet pour- 500 grams (3⅔ cups) bread flour pan first, effectively frying the bottom of the able batter. Resist the temptation to add more 5 teaspoons instant yeast focaccia as the top bakes. flour than is called for. Shaping such a sticky, 1 teaspoon white sugar high-hydration dough by hand is impossible. 2 cups water, cool room temperature ack at milk street, adapting the recipe Instead, the dough is gently poured and 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided mostly was a matter of logistics. In the heat B scraped into the oiled baking pan; gravity set- 3½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided of Fiore’s kitchen, four hours is plenty for rising. tles it into an even layer. To slice the baked 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved But in significantly cooler home kitchens, we focaccia for serving, use a serrated knife and a 1 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted and needed to let the dough go for about six hours to sawing motion to cut through the crust and halved (see note) get similar results. And without the benefit of a crumb without compressing it. If you like, 1 teaspoon dried oregano wood-fired oven that can crank upward of 600°F, serve with extra-virgin olive oil for dipping. If ¾ teaspoon ground black pepper we needed to bake our focaccia a bit longer. you have trouble finding Castelvetrano olives, We also needed a substitute for the toma- substitute any large, meaty green olive. ■ In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix toes. Lightly crushed cherry tomatoes offered Don’t disturb the dough during its rise. the flour, yeast and sugar on medium until the best flavor in place of the almost iridescent And when transferring the dough to the bak- combined, about 30 seconds. With the mixer Sicilian tomatoes Fiore used. Halving them, ing pan, handle it gently. The goal is to retain on low, drizzle in the water, then increase to then lightly mashing them removed some of the as much gas in the dough as possible so the medium and mix until the ingredients form a juices that otherwise pooled unappealingly on focaccia bakes up with an airy texture. Don’t very wet, smooth dough, about 5 minutes. Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin the surface of the focaccia. The result? Italy’s best focaccia a little closer to home. ◆

16 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

Turn off the mixer, cover the bowl and let stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, coat the bot- tom and sides of a large bowl with 2 table- spoons of the oil; set aside. ■ Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the salt over the dough, then knead on medium until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes; the dough will be wet enough to cling to the sides of the bowl. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the dough into the oiled bowl. Dip your fingers into the oil pooled at the sides of the bowl and dab the sur- 1. In a stand mixer, mix the flour, 2. After about 5 minutes mixing 3. Loosely cover the bowl 4. Knead on medium until smooth face of the dough until completely coated with yeast and sugar on medium until on medium, the mixture will with plastic wrap, then let and elastic, about 5 minutes; the oil. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let combined. Drizzle in the water. form a very wet, smooth dough. stand for 10 minutes. dough should cling to the sides. stand at room temperature for 5½ to 6 hours; during this time, the dough will double in vol- ume, deflate, then rise again (but will not double in volume again). ■ After the dough has risen for about 4½ hours, heat the oven to 500°F with a baking steel or stone on the middle rack. Mist a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan with cooking spray, then pour 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil in the center of the pan; set aside. ■ When the dough is ready, gently pour it into 5. Scrape the dough into a bowl 6. Cover the bowl with plastic 7. During this time, the dough 8. Gently pour the dough into the prepared pan, scraping the sides of the bowl with 2 tablespoons oil, dabbing wrap, then let rise at room will double in volume, deflate, the prepared pan, scraping the with a silicone spatula to loosen; try to retain the surface of it to coat well. temperature for 5½ to 6 hours. then rise again (but not double). bowl with a silicone spatula. as much air in the dough as possible. The dough will eventually settle into an even layer in the pan; do not spread the dough with the spatula, as this will cause it to deflate. Set aside. ■ In a medium bowl, use a potato masher to lightly crush the tomatoes. Scatter the olives evenly over the dough, then do the same with the tomatoes, leaving the juice and seeds in the bowl. If the dough has not fully filled the cor- ners of the pan, use your hands to lightly press 9. Scatter olives evenly over the 10. Let the focaccia stand, the toppings to push the dough into the cor- dough, then do the same with uncovered, at room ners. Let stand uncovered at room temperature the tomatoes (without juices). temperature for 20 minutes. for 20 minutes. ■ Drizzle the dough with the remaining 4 tablespoons oil, making sure each tomato is coated. Sprinkle evenly with the oregano, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt and the pepper. Place the pan on the baking steel or stone and bake until golden brown and the sides of the focaccia have pulled away from the pan, 20 to 22 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, lift the focaccia from the pan and slide it 11. Drizzle the dough with 12. Sprinkle with dried oregano, onto the rack. Cool for at least 30 minutes 4 tablespoons olive oil, making kosher salt and black pepper. Copious oil in the baking pan ensures the bottom

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:before Christine Tobin serving. ◆ sure that each tomato is coated. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes. bakes up crispy while the top is still tender.

17 The Best of Milk Street 2020

bold flavor is wrested from a small handful of ingredients. Cutting the scallions into thin strips before cooking requires a little knifework but allows them to crisp evenly and quickly. And once fried, they integrate nicely with the noodles rather than fall to the bottom of the bowl. Ground pork makes our version hearty enough to serve as a main dish. Dried Asian wheat noodles about the size of thin spaghetti work well in this recipe; noninstant dried ramen is a good choice, as are thin lo mein noodles (don’t use wide, flat lo mein). A sprinkle of thinly sliced fresh chilies, though not traditional, balances the richness of the dish and adds a welcome kick of heat. Don’t forget to add only about half the scal- lion greens to the skillet. The rest are used fresh at the end. Also, don’t stir the scallions or pork too frequently; this slows down the browning and crisping process. —Julia Rackow

2 bunches scallions 10 ounces dried Asian wheat noodles (see note) ⅓ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil Just a handful of ingredients is required to create this deeply savory and satisfying noodle dish. 8 ounces ground pork ⅓ cup soy sauce Shanghai’s best noodle dish also is its simplest 3 tablespoons white sugar Kosher salt 1 or 2 Fresno or jalapeño chilies, stemmed and Scallion Noodles with Ground Pork sliced into thin rounds (optional)

Story by Shaula Clark We did find that cutting the scallions into thin, ■ In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. evenly sized strips helped them crisp quickly and While the water heats, cut the scallions into 2- to hanghai’s most popular street food— uniformly. Some recipes insist that the scallions 3-inch lengths, then slice lengthwise into thin Scong you ban mian—is a boldly savory tangle be cooked low and slow; others call for high-temp strips, reserving the whites and greens separately. of chewy noodles and crisp-fried scallions. But the frying. We got the best—and most consistent— To the boiling water, add the noodles, then cook bulk of its flavor comes from the least obvious results with medium heat, giving the scallions a bit until tender (refer to package instructions for cook- ingredient: the oil. The dish, which translates as more time to brown. We also reserved some of the ing times). Drain in a colander and rinse under noodles tossed in scallion oil, is a master class in scallion greens for sprinkling over the finished dish cold water until cool to the touch; set aside. extracting deep, rich flavors from just a handful of to add fresh flavor that mirrored the infused oil. ■ In a large skillet over medium, heat the oil simple ingredients and equally simple cooking. Though we wanted to preserve the dish’s sim- until shimmering. Add the scallion whites and cook, Scallions are fried crisp in copious oil until plicity, we did like the meatiness of a little ground stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 5 to the latter is infused with the aroma and taste of pork (Dunlop’s recipe uses shrimp) browned in 7 minutes. Add about half of the scallion greens the green onions. Sometimes shrimp or ground the scallion oil. And a finishing sprinkle of and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned pork are added, too, but classic versions skip the chopped fresh chilies balanced the dish with pops and beginning to crisp, another 5 to 8 minutes. protein. Either way, noodles are cooked, then of heat to cut through the richness. Finally, freshly Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl doused with the oil, along with the crispy-smoky pulled Asian wheat noodles aren’t common in and set aside. bits of scallion. American kitchens, but we found that dried Asian ■ Add the pork to the oil remaining in the pan and The oil is so flavorful, in fact, that Fuchsia wheat noodles, noninstant dried ramen and even cook over medium, stirring to break the meat into Dunlop—the Chinese food expert whose recipe thin lo mein noodles worked just as well. small pieces, until the meat is well browned and inspired our own—makes it in large quantities crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce and and stores it in the refrigerator to combine with Shanghai-Style Scallion Noodles sugar, then bring to a simmer, scraping up any bits frozen noodles for easy, 10-minute meals. with Ground Pork stuck to the pan. At Milk Street, we loved how a simple tech- ■ Reduce to low and add the noodles and fried scal- nique transformed oil from neutral to flavor-­ Start to finish: 35 minutes | Servings: 4 lions. Cook, tossing to combine, until the noodles packed. Though many recipes use more, we found he shanghainese dish called cong you are heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from ⅓ cup of oil was plenty to fry the scallions and T ban mian combines wheat noodles with fried the heat, then taste and season with salt. Toss in the dress the noodles, adding loads of flavor without scallions, the flavorful oil that results from frying remaining scallion greens. Divide among individ- weighing down the dish. them and salty, savory soy sauce. A lot of deep, ual bowls and top with fresh chilies (if using). ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

18 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ]

Galilee, in northern Israel, is a stony land punctuated by crops—corn, mangos, grapes—with small, ancient towns hugging the slopes of hills. Everyone Is Welcome at the Palestinian Table

Story by Christopher Kimball simple since extended family, friends and neighbors In Galilee, tend to drift into view just before serving. he drive from Tel Aviv to Galilee ingredients The dish starts with simmering the meat is only 90 minutes heading north- —rice, (lamb or chicken) in water, which also pro- east, but it is a bit like traveling from chicken and vegetables— duces stock. The meat then is sautéed with T Barcelona to Basque country; they onions and spices before a layer of rice is are a world apart. Tel Aviv is young, interna- added, then fried eggplant, then a final layer of tional, bursting with moonlit nightlife and transform into a feast spiced rice and the broth. The spice mix can be electric scooters, meze and espresso, volley- a classic baharat, but Kassis points out that ball by the sea, and a freewheeling modernity every family has their own recipe. Most spice drawn from a rich hunger for life instilled by blends in Arabic cooking start with allspice, geography. The West Bank divides Israel both cinnamon, black pepper and nutmeg. physically and politically. Our van pulled up across the street from As we head toward lunch with Reem Kas- Kassis’ parents’ house, and much like a family sis, author of “The Palestinian Table,” the land reunion, the house emptied onto the sidewalk. is flat and stony, punctuated by crops of corn, We were greeted by her parents (Habib and mangos and grapes. The light is thin and Minerva), her in-laws and her two daughters bright, the sightlines long and clear. Small, (Yasmeen and Hala). Soon, we were escorted ancient towns hug the slopes of hills, inside to seats at a very long table; in Galilee, sketched in black and white, bleached by hospitality is paramount. The table already was sun and time. We are traveling to Karmiel, a dressed with an abundance of dishes, includ- ’60s settlement with immaculate tree-lined ing a salad of arugula, mint, tomatoes and lab- suburban streets, where Kassis’ extended fam- neh balls, musakhan (spiced chicken wrapped ily wait to serve us a feast, dishes that would in a flaky pastry dough), sfeeha (rounds of yeast tell the story of the Palestinian table. dough filled with spiced lamb), bitter greens Maqlubeh is the recipe I most wanted to with caramelized onions, and stuffed vegeta- learn. It is a spiced rice and meat casserole bles served casserole-style with lamb cutlets. with fried vegetables, nuts, eggplant and/or cauliflower that is cooked in a large pot, then he last act was to unmold the flipped upside down onto a thin metal platter T maqlubeh, no mean feat since the pot is for serving. In fact, the term means “upside hot and heavy. Using kitchen towels, Kassis down” in Arabic. As I was about to learn, the placed the platter on top of the pot, then, with platter is an essential piece of cookware in The rice dish maqlubeh is cooked in a large a sure hand, flipped them over and lifted the Galilee. Nothing is prepared in small quantities pot, then flipped upside down for serving. pot off. She then jiggled the Continued on page 20 Photos : Christopher Kimball

19 The Best of Milk Street 2020

platter so the mound of rice scratched from an unforgiv- started to crack open, revealing ing landscape that has endured the meat and vegetables hid- Reem Kassis’ from the dawn of history. den inside. Lighter than I would All-Purpose have imagined, the spices, rice, ack at milk street, meat and eggplant make this Nine-Spice Blend Bwe had our work cut out a classic feast dish, the mix of eem Kassis says every for us to streamline this dish. ingredients varied in both tex- R household has its own spice We wanted a smaller recipe ture and flavor, and one that blend. To make her family’s recipe, using chicken, not lamb, and provides excellent leftovers. Kassis calls for 6 tablespoons less pre-­cooking; we also hoped I soon discovered that allspice, 6 cinnamon sticks we could avoid frying the maqlubeh is a good ambassa- (broken in half), 3 tablespoons eggplant. We started by soak- dor for the Palestinian table. If coriander seed, 1 tablespoon ing the rice while we sautéed you ask a resident of Tel Aviv black peppercorns, 10 whole bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, about where to eat, they might cloves, ½ whole nutmeg (crushed), then set them aside. We then mention their great Thai food. 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, put a round of kitchen parch- An Arab resident of Galilee is ½ teaspoon cumin seeds and ment on the bottom of the pot more likely to offer tradition. 2 blades mace. Toast all ingredients to make the finished dish eas- That may be because Tel Aviv in a skillet until aromatic, stirring ier to unmold. We added oil imports many of its ingredi- frequently. Cool, then use a spice and almonds, then a cup of ents, whereas Palestinian food grinder to grind to a powder. the rice. The remaining rice in Galilee still is intimately Makes about 1 cup. Keeps for three was mixed with spices, garlic connected with the land. months in an airtight container. If and cauliflower florets. Most Olive oil is pressed using a you don’t have blades of mace, stir of this was layered into the pot, machine that consists of two Reem Kassis with Yasmeen and Hala. in ground mace after grinding. ◆ followed by a layer of chicken, giant stone crushing wheels then slices of eggplant (raw, set in an ancient red container not fried) and a final thin layer that looks like a washed-up dinghy. Grains are a rocky desert punctuated by the rich greens of of the seasoned rice followed by broth. processed with a Rube Goldberg grinder/ irrigated farmland, Palestinian food is enduring We cooked the mixture on the stovetop for sorter. And taboon bread is baked in a rotating and hearty, yet more than able to deliver a culi- about 40 minutes, then let it rest for 15 minutes circular oven that has metal bumps on the sur- nary surprise without warning. A fragrant rose off the heat before unmolding. For the less face to mimic the hot stones traditionally used. petal jam; maftool, a form of fregola that starts adventurous, the dish can be served directly And then, as we descend from the hills with a grain of bulgur inside; ka’ak asfar, a from the pot without flipping to invert it onto a toward sunset, toward our hotel, the Sea of Gal- sweet turmeric-colored bread with ground platter. Now we had a family-, not feast-sized, ilee appears as a biblical still life, without sound nigella and sesame seeds; or a simple pairing of version of maqlubeh, one that could be assem- or movement, the Golan Heights ebbing into the bitter greens and grains. It is a cuisine of abun- bled quickly while maintaining the original fla- night across the water. Much like the landscape, dance in a land where ingredients are hard-won, vors and traditions of Galilee. ◆

The Khalaf family uses Taboon bread is served with an olive oil- ­ Leah Samman makes small, Bassam Qadri operates a mill next to a two large stone wheels to za’atar paste. Its bumpy texture is a throwback light shawarma rolls using bakery, where grains are processed via an

press olives. to when it was baked with hot stones. see-through dough. elaborate grinder/sorter system. Kimball Christopher Photos:

20 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Palestinian Upside-Down Chicken and Rice (Maqlubeh)

Start to finish: 2 hours (30 minutes active), plus resting | Servings: 8 maqlubeh translates from the Arabic as “upside down,” which describes how this traditional multilayered rice dish is served. Though our stream­lined recipe still requires a small invest- ment in ingredients and prep, the work mostly is front-loaded and produces a one-pot dish impressive enough for a special occasion. For proper cooking, it’s important to use a pot 9½ to 11 inches in diameter and 4 to 6 inches deep. After searing and removing the chicken, we line the bottom of the pot with a parch- ment round to guarantee that the rice, which forms a crisp, browned bottom layer, does not stick when the pot is inverted for serving. If you prefer, you can serve directly from the Our version of maqlubeh, a traditional one-pot rice dish, features a crisp, browned crust. pot, but we still recommend lining the bottom of the pot with parchment. ■ In a large bowl, combine the rice and and pepper. Reserve ½ cup of this mixture, Don’t forget to soak and rinse the rice. This 2 tablespoons salt. Add water to cover by then distribute the remainder in an even helps the grains cook up light and separate. 1 inch, then set aside. Have ready a lidded pot layer in the pot. —Courtney Hill that measures 9½ to 11 inches in diameter ■ Place the chicken in the pot, slightly nest- and 4 to 6 inches deep. Cut 2 rounds of kitchen ling the pieces into the rice-cauliflower layer; 2 cups basmati rice parchment the same diameter as the pot. discard any accumulated juices. Shingle the Kosher salt and ground black pepper ■ Season the chicken all over with salt and eggplant slices over the chicken in an even 1½ pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken pepper. Set the pot over medium and heat layer. Sprinkle with the reserved ½ cup rice. thighs, trimmed 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add ■ Pour the broth into the pot (it will not fully 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, the chicken skin side down and cook until cover the eggplant), then bring to a boil over divided browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a medium-high. Lay the second parchment ⅓ cup slivered almonds plate and set aside. Remove the pot from the round against the surface of the pot’s con- 8 ounces cauliflower florets (1-inch pieces) heat. Place 1 parchment round on the bottom, tents, then cover with the lid. Cook for 5 min- 8 medium garlic cloves, chopped then turn to coat it with fat. utes, reduce to low and continue to cook, 4 tablespoons (½ stick) salted butter, ■ Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil to undisturbed, for 35 minutes. melted the parchment-lined pot, then sprinkle evenly ■ Remove the pot from the heat, uncover and 4 teaspoons ground cumin with the almonds. Drain the rice in a fine- let stand for 15 minutes. Remove the parch- 1 tablespoon ground allspice mesh strainer, then rinse under cool running ment, then invert a serving platter onto the 2 teaspoons ground turmeric water and drain again. Scatter 1 cup of the pot. Holding the platter against the pot, care- 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg rice in a thin, even layer over the almonds. In fully invert the two together; leave the pot 8 ounces eggplant (½ medium), sliced into a medium bowl, mix the remaining rice with overturned on the platter and let rest for about ¼-inch-thick rounds the cauliflower, garlic, butter, cumin, allspice, 10 minutes. Slowly lift off the pot and, if needed, 1 quart low-sodium chicken broth turmeric, nutmeg and 1¾ teaspoons each salt remove and discard the parchment. ◆ Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

21 The Best of Milk Street 2020

Underneath this showy exterior is the love of simplicity that underlies Pasta with Parmesan Cream all Italian cooking. Yes, there are restaurants such as Massimiliano Start to finish: 25 minutes Poggi outside Bologna that remind Servings: 4 to 6 one of the heady days of nouvelle cui- he key to this simple, ultra- sine. But for the most part, the T rich pasta is using good-quality cooks in Bologna stick to basics: fet- true Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano-­ tuccine alla Bolognese, tortellini in Reggiano). We simmer a piece of brodo, passatelli, cotoletta, cre- Parmesan rind in the cream for added spelle, ragùs, and the simplest of pas- flavor and umami; some supermar- tas, such as tagliatelle with butter kets and cheese shops sell just rinds, and prosciutto. or you can simply cut the rind off Any good traveler is always on your chunk of Parmesan. the lookout for that one dish, the Don’t use domestic Parmesan game-changer, and the Emilia- or even true Parmesan that’s pre- Romagna region makes the perfect grated. Neither will yield the correct hunting ground. In my case, it was a flavor and consistency. Parmesan cream sauce I had with —Diane Unger gramigna pasta at Trattoria Bertozzi in Bologna. It is so ridiculously sim- 2½ cups heavy cream ple—cream, grated Parmesan and 2-inch Parmesan rind, plus 6 ounces lemon juice—that it barely qualifies Parmesan cheese, finely grated as a recipe, yet it solves the problem of (3 cups) Alfredo, carbonara, cacio e pepe and 2 bay leaves other creamy pasta sauces that easily 2 tablespoons lemon juice end up gluey, stringy or congealed. Kosher salt and ground black Back at Milk Street, we made only pepper two small changes: We added Parme- 1 pound linguine fini or spaghetti san rind to the cream along with two bay leaves to boost flavor. Once the ■ In a medium saucepan over cream had reduced at a low simmer, medium, combine the cream, Parme- about 10 minutes, we whisked in the san rind and bay. Bring to a simmer lemon juice—which helped thicken and cook, stirring occasionally and the cream—and then the cheese until adjusting the heat as needed, until the Parmesan melted into a fluid, slightly thickened and reduced to creamy sauce. Nothing could be sim- 2 cups, 10 to 15 minutes. pler, which for any Italian cook is the ■ Remove the pan from the heat, highest compliment. then remove and discard the cheese rind and bay. Whisk in the lemon juice; the mixture will thicken Parmesan, cream and lemon juice combine to make a rich pasta sauce. For Thick and Creamy slightly. Whisk in the cheese a hand- Sauces, Just Add Acid ful at a time, then continue to whisk Tired of trying to perfect a creamy pasta sauce? ream-based sauces such until completely smooth. Taste and Cas the one in our pasta season with pepper, then set aside In Bologna, Italy, we uncovered a simple solution with Parmesan can be uncovered. thickened naturally as they ■ In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water cook simply by adding lemon to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons salt and Pasta with Parmesan Cream juice. That’s because the the pasta, then cook, stirring occa- proteins in dairy react to sionally, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup Story by Christopher Kimball acidity by clumping together, of the cooking water, then drain. which gives the sauce a rich Return the pasta to the pot. ologna is a mystery. Origi- medieval clothing well, with stun- viscosity. The same chemical ■ Pour the sauce over the pasta and Bnally Etruscan, then Roman, ning marble-faced arcades, leaning reaction is responsible for the toss until well coated, stirring in now home to the oldest university towers, cobblestone streets, foun- thickness of sour cream, additional pasta water as needed to in the world, it is a destination that, tains and narrow alleys filled with which is acidified as a result of thin. Taste and season with salt and up until 10 years ago, was mostly vegetable stands, fish markets and the culturing process. pepper. Serve sprinkled with addi- overlooked by travelers. It wears its salumi vendors. tional black pepper. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

22 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] The Delicate Art of Pimentón In a quiet Spanish valley, we learn the secret to cooking with smoked paprika

The valley of La Vera is home to Spain’s most iconic spice, pimentón de la Vera. Here, it is grown, harvested, smoked and ground into powder.

Story by Albert Stumm for pimentón de la Vera, or smoked paprika, for I have a lot to learn about how to make the 50 years. “If there’s no smoke coming out the most of its powerfully aromatic flavor. smoke rises from smolder- top, the peppers are going to spoil.” He places ing oak up through the slats his palm on the lower wall to judge the tempera- arcia tosses the peppers with a blunt of a wooden loft overhead, ture of the room before throwing on another Gpitchfork—a daily chore—and says he and seeping into a mound of log. Any hotter than about 120°F and the pep- his wife take turns to wake in the middle of S lipstick-­red peppers piled 3 feet pers start to cook. Too cool and they rot. I the night and check the fire. The jaranda peppers deep. Beams of sunlight stream would soon learn that the peppers are just as he had already dried sit off to the side in 20-kilo through holes in the terra ­cotta temperamental after they’ve been ground to a sacks. They smell fruitier than I expect, with roof, a deliberately ramshackle setup that fine, pungent powder. cherry aromas that make evident why this blend keeps rain out but lets moisture escape. The Here in La Vera, a verdant, sparsely popu- is called sweet rather than mild or plain. skinny, tapered fruit will dry over a constant lated valley between Madrid and Portugal, this The peppers are one of four types awaiting fire for eight to 15 days, depending on the revered spice enriches nearly every traditional to be sent to a factory, where they’ll be combined weather, before it is turned into Spain’s most recipe—stews, vegetables, eggs, grilled meats. at varying quantities to make dulce (sweet), emblematic spice. But the real lesson comes from a mantra I hear agridulce (bittersweet) or picante (spicy) paprika. “The building has to breathe,” says Paco over and over, that paprika cooked is paprika lost, Whatever the level of heat, the result is com- Garcia Barra, a farmer who has grown peppers a seemingly contradictory warning. Clearly, pletely unlike wan American Continued on page 24 Photos: Nacho Hernandez Nacho Photos:

23 The Best of Milk Street 2020

The pimentón shines when it is treated with care, chef Ana Lopez explains. It burns easily, soit’s best used as a finishing sprinkle, mixed with oil for a dressing or added to hot ingredients. In soups and stews, it’s always added to the pot with liquid. And it is at its most assertive when used raw. supermarket paprika, which is used mostly for used as a finishing sprinkle, mixed with oil for a side. Another flip and it’s ready. After a few sec- color because it lacks any appreciable flavor. dressing or added to hot ingredients. In soups onds of contact with the plancha, the oil adheres Actually, the Spanish might bristle if you and stews, it’s always added to the pot with liquid, to the meat, yet the spice is heated briefly enough refer to pimentón as paprika, a Hungarian prod- lending depth as it blends increasingly into the to retain its smoky, fruity aroma. uct made of different varieties of peppers dried background the longer a pot simmers. It’s at its most I find Lopez’s lesson repeated many times with heaters and fans rather than wood. Besides deliciously assertive when cooked not at all. over the next several days. Sprinkled on top of the smoke, it also lacks pimentón’s vibrant red fried eggs. Dusted over sautéed green beans and color. And though records are hazy, pimentón mixed with garlic, oil and the beans’ cooking predates paprika by at least 100 years: The water to form a flavorful broth. Emulsified with capsicum annuum peppers Columbus brought oil over fried strips of lamb. Uncooked in each back in 1493 were first cultivated in the Old case, the spice’s bright fruitiness is preserved. Its World by monks in La Vera. smoky depth enriches simple ingredients. The monks were lucky. The imposing Sierra “It’s inside our DNA,” says Toño Pérez, chef de Gredos mountain range blocks cold northern of Atrio in Cáceres, where pimentón shows up winds and funnels moisture east from the dusted over an empanada and infused, barely Atlantic, creating a microclimate that provides detectable, into the sauce for slow-cooked pork three times the rain as only 20 miles north. neck. “Because you use it so naturally, you’re not That’s better for farming, but it also explains conscious that you’re even using it.” why the peppers must be dried over a fire rather than in the sun as in other parts of Spain. ack at milk street, we’ve always known The upshot is the smoke. Pimentón de la B that ground spices can burn easily and turn Vera has a way of announcing its presence in a bitter, but we wondered why pimentón de la Vera dish before the plate hits the table. Which is seemed to have even more to lose. Turns out, it’s what happens at Alcor del Roble, a former dry- because these peppers have more natural sugars ing room converted into a guesthouse and than most of the ground seeds, leaves, roots or restaurant in Collado de la Vera. bark that become other spices, which causes the Chef Ana Lopez sends out a collection of pimentón to burn even more quickly. Taking what plates that could be case studies on how to high- we learned, we focused on Lopez’s pork tender- light pimentón’s flavor. Migas, a scramble of bread- loin, which we loved for its subtle sweetness and crumbs, potatoes, bell peppers and bits of ham, smoky depth—not to mention its simplicity. come dusted with pimentón picante, a flourish Farmer Paco Garcia Barra slices up sausage We stayed faithful but for a few adjustments. so smoky one could be fooled into thinking it spiced with pimentón made from his peppers. At first, in an effort to avoid cooking the pork in was American barbecue. Morcilla de calabaza is batches, we tried both the broiler and the oven. a mash of squash, pork fat, onion and pimentón Splitting the difference is her pork tender- But our tests came out bland or dry. So we stayed that’s usually shoved into sausage casing but loin a la plancha, cooked on a flattop griddle. A on the stovetop but employed a simplified but- here is spread on toast. Patatas revolconas are thin layer of piquant sauce clings to tender meat, terflying technique and flattened the tenderloin boiled potatoes stirred with bell pepper, garlic redolent of smoke, subtly sweet and brightened to an even ¼-inch thickness by pounding it. This and pimentón-infused oil. by citrusy oregano. It is simple, savory and ensured even cooking in the skillet that was fast The spice makes these simple ingredients utterly delicious. enough that the first batch stayed warm. feel substantial, even meaty—and that was, his- Lopez makes a few lengthwise cuts to To the paprika-oregano oil, we added a half torically, the idea. When black pepper and other roughly butterfly the loin for faster cooking, teaspoon of white sugar to reinforce the fruiti- imported spices were the domain of nobility, then seasons it with only salt. It’s cooked on the ness in the spice, and a citrusy sprinkle of fresh pimentón was the bold stroke of flavor that com- plancha over medium for only four minutes per oregano balanced the sweet. The paprika high- moners could afford. side. The trick is brushing the meat with an oil lighted the natural sweetness of the pork with a The pimentón shines when it is treated with infused with pimentón dulce before flipping and smokiness that was preserved thanks to the tricks care, Lopez explains. It burns easily, so it’s best cooking it only long enough to brush the other we picked up in La Vera. Lesson gladly learned. ◆ Hernandez Nacho Photo:

24 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Seared Pork Tenderloin with Smoked Paprika and Oregano

3 tablespoons Halve each tenderloin crosswise, extra-virgin then halve each piece lengthwise, olive oil stopping about ¼ inch short of 1 tablespoon cutting all the way through; open smoked paprika the meat like a book. Using a meat (see note) pounder or mallet, pound the 1 teaspoon dried pork to an even ¼-inch thickness, oregano then season each piece all over ½ teaspoon white with ½ teaspoon salt. sugar ■ In a 12-inch skillet over medium-­ Two 1¼-pound high, heat 1 tablespoon of the grape- pork tenderloins, seed oil until shimmering. Place trimmed of 2 pieces of pork in the pan and cook silver skin undisturbed until golden brown, Kosher salt 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook until 2 tablespoons the second sides are browned, 1 to grapeseed or 2 minutes. Lightly brush some other neutral oil, paprika oil onto each piece, then divided flip the pork and brush the second 1 tablespoon fresh sides. Transfer to a platter. oregano, ■ Repeat with the remaining Skillet-seared pork coated in pimentón-laced olive oil offers plenty of bold, smoky flavor. chopped 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil and pork. Brush the remaining paprika Start to finish: 35 minutes | Servings: 4 And when pounding, work from ■ In a small bowl, stir together the oil onto the pork, then let rest for n the extremadura region the center of the piece outward to olive oil, smoked paprika, dried 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the I of Spain that is home to the edges. —Courtney Hill oregano and sugar; set aside. fresh oregano. ◆ pimentón de la Vera, or Spanish smoked paprika, we were taught that exposure to high heat blunts Butterflying a Tenderloin Like most restaurants in Spain, the Alcor del Roble restaurant in the spice’s unique earthiness, the Extremadura region cooks pork tenderloin “a la plancha,” or on a flat­top griddle, before it is brushed with oil smokiness and fruitiness. This infused with smoked paprika. To ensure fast and even cooking, the loin usually is butterflied. recipe illustrates how to best pre- serve pimentón’s unique flavors when searing is involved: The paprika is mixed with olive oil and then brushed onto butterflied and pounded pork tenderloin only after the meat has been browned in a hot skillet. Spanish smoked paprika is available in different degrees of spiciness. For this dish, if you have the choice, opt for sweet (dulce) or bittersweet (agridulce). 1. To butterfly pork 2. Next, halve each piece 3. Open the meat like a 4. Using a meat pounder Don’t use a heavy hand when tenderloins, start by first lengthwise, stopping about book, pulling the sides or mallet, pound each pounding the pork, which can result cutting each tenderloin in ¼ inch short of cutting all of the tenderloin away tenderloin to an even

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:in Christine Tobin tears and uneven thickness. half crosswise. the way through. from the center cut. ¼-inch thickness. Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

25 The Best of Milk Street 2020

Finally, a recipe for homemade pizza that doesn’t require the skills of a Neapolitan pizzaiolo

Story by Christopher Kimball

y journey started at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples. A visit to da Michele, first opened in 1870, is M an act of pilgrimage, even appearing in “Eat, Pray, Love.” That meant a raggedy line extending well down the sidewalk. After 45 min- utes, our family nabbed a small table near the mouth of the wood-fired oven. I watched as the dough was spun-stretched into an impossibly thin round, draped onto a wooden peel, topped in seconds with tomato sauce and mozzarella di bufala, then slid into the back of the oven near a large mound of glowing coals. The pizza was constantly rotated and checked, and in 70 seconds the finished pie was pulled from the oven, sliced and served. Foolishly, I thought that this demonstration was a form of divine guidance—someday I too would become a master pizzaiolo. Nope. Years fol- With 89 percent hydration and four hours of rising time, this pour-in-the-pan pizza is a relative of focaccia. lowed of tough, too thin, tasteless and totally for- gettable homemade pizzas. The one bright spot was my grilled pizza, which, for whatever reason, was notable. But the oven was still a no-fly zone for Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza tomato pies. Then last year, Milk Street’s editorial director, rise and texture, and I lost the crispy top crust I A few words of advice. First, I have found that J.M. Hirsch, traveled to Bari, Italy (directly across was looking for. This reminded me of the tomato it is essential to make sure that a pizza dough is from Naples on the Adriatic), to Panificio Fiore. pies from da Michele—the fresh mozzarella di fully rested and at 75°F before cooking. If the Their focaccia was a revelation, and so was the rec- bufala turned out a crust that was soggy in the dough rises in a cool kitchen, the results will not ipe. The hydration level (the weight of the water middle; everyone there eats pizza with a fork and be as good. Second, never stretch the dough from divided by the weight of the flour) was over 90 per- knife! So, borrowing yet another trick from the the sides and do not overstretch. It is better to have cent, and the rising time was four hours, during focaccia playbook, I tried cherry or Campari a smaller, airier, chewier pizza than one with flat, which the dough rose, collapsed and rose again. It tomatoes, sliced in half or quarters, lightly tough edges. (If the dough does not reach the sides was not lost on me that the charm of this recipe, in crushed with a potato masher. Then I strained out of the pan, just relax—like the dough!) Finally, addition to the outstanding crust and texture, was the juices; the resulting bits were dry, not wet. For it is helpful to coat a silicone spatula with cook- that the dough was simply poured into the pan— cheese, a supermarket shredded whole-milk moz- ing spray before trying to remove the dough no da Michele expertise required. zarella is ideal—the fresh stuff tastes better but from the mixer. The dough is so wet that it will Converting this recipe to a weeknight pizza, will ruin the crust. Oregano and salt round it off. stick to everything. however, was another matter. The first issue was the amount of dough for the pan. When I split the recipe between two 12-inch round pizza pans, The Ups and Downs and Ups of Pizza Dough I got thick focaccia, not pizza: 20 percent less o develop properly, dough worked better. I also slightly reduced the Tour high-hydration hydration level from 95 percent to 89 percent for dough needs to rise for better chew and a bit less airiness but left the rising four hours on a warm time at four hours plus. countertop. During that But the real problem was the toppings. Any time, it will rise, fall, liquid (tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella) ruined the and rise again. The dough rises… …and falls… …and rises again. Photos: Christopher Kimball (bottom steps); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin

26 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

Though this pizza breaks all the rules, you get an amazing result: a crispy top and bottom and an airy, slightly chewy center.

spot). After rising, the dough is poured out onto a in the lowest position. If using Campari tomatoes, greased 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet (also cut them into quarters; if using cherry tomatoes, known as a half sheet pan) to rest for 20 minutes cut them in half. Place the tomatoes in a large bowl before being nudged with oiled fingers to the edges and mash gently with a potato masher. Transfer to of the pan. Instead of making a single large pizza, a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl and set aside you could make two 12-inch pies using low-lipped, to drain until ready to use. disk-shaped pizza pans, like the ones used in ■ After the dough has rested, oil your hands, 1. Pour the dough onto 2. Using well-oiled the prepared baking fingers, push the dough American-style pizzerias; see the directions below. and, working from the center, gently push it into Don’t forget to mist the baking sheet sheet and let rest for from the center toward with an even layer to the edges and into the corners of 20 minutes. the corners—be gentle. cooking spray. The olive oil alone isn’t enough to the baking sheet; be careful not to press out all of prevent sticking; a coating of cooking spray is the air. It’s fine if the dough does not completely important to ensure the pizza releases easily. Don’t fill the pan, but it should come close. use fresh mozzarella; it contains too much moisture ■ Drizzle the tomatoes with the remaining 1 table- and will make the surface of the pizza soggy. Like- spoon oil, then toss. Scatter over the dough, leav- wise, be sure to drain the juices from the tomatoes. ing a narrow border. Let rest for another 30 minutes. —Diane Unger and Christopher Kimball Scatter the cheese over the dough, then sprinkle with the oregano, pepper and kosher or flaky salt 400 grams (2¾ cups plus 2½ tablespoons) (if using). Bake until the surface of the pizza is bread flour golden brown and the bottom is crisped and well 2 teaspoons white sugar browned, 18 to 20 minutes. Slide the pizza from Two ¼-ounce packets instant yeast (4½ teaspoons) the pan onto a wire rack and cool for a few min- 1½ cups water, 100°F to 110°F utes before slicing. Kosher salt and ground black pepper How to Make Two 12-Inch Round Pizzas 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus ◆ 3. Top the dough evenly 4. Add any additional with tomatoes, leaving toppings to the pizza, more for oiling your hands follow the recipe to make and rise the a narrow border, then let then sprinkle the cheese 1 pound Campari or cherry tomatoes dough. When the dough is ready, generously mist rest for 30 minutes. evenly over the top. 6 ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, two 12-inch round pizza pans with cooking spray, shredded (3 cups) then pour 1 tablespoon oil onto the center of each. 1 teaspoon dried oregano Scrape half the dough onto the center of each pan. Though this pizza-making process breaks all Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling (optional) Continue with the recipe, allowing the dough to the rules (tons of water, tons of yeast, ridiculous rest for 20 minutes before pushing it to the edges of rising time, and no stretching skills required), you ■ In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix the the pans and adding toppings. Bake one at a time, get an amazing result: a crispy top and bottom, the flour, sugar and yeast on medium until combined, reducing the baking time to 12 to 15 minutes. latter reminiscent of a Chicago deep-dish pizza, about 30 seconds. With the mixer running, add To Top It Off and an airy, slightly chewy center. It may not look the water and mix on medium until a sticky dough ◆ like an artisanal pizza—the top crust is shiny forms, about 5 minutes; scrape the bowl and because pour-in-the-pan pizza dough is rather than charred matte—but it is exceptional dough hook once during mixing. Turn off the extremely wet, it’s important to use toppings that nonetheless, a stress-free solution to homemade mixer and let rest 10 minutes. Add 4 teaspoons are dry, or the pie will bake up with a soggy surface. pizza, even if you are a better pizzaiolo than I am! kosher salt and mix on medium for another 5 min- The following are some of our favorite toppings; we utes. The dough will be shiny, wet and elastic. suggest using no more than two in addition to the Coat a large bowl Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza ■ with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Mist tomatoes and mozzarella. Scatter the ingredient(s) with Tomatoes and Mozzarella a silicone spatula with cooking spray and use it to onto the tomato-topped dough just before adding scrape the dough into the bowl. Flip the dough with the cheese. If you are using high-sodium toppings, Start to finish: 6 hours the spatula to oil all sides. Cover tightly with plas- such as olives or capers, you may wish to skip the (35 minutes active) | Servings: 4 to 6 tic wrap and let rise in a warm spot for 4 to 5 hours. salt that’s sprinkled on before baking. he crust for this pizza borrows from the ■ When the dough is ready, generously mist a TMilk Street recipe for a light, open-crumbed 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with cooking ■ Sliced pepperoni or salami focaccia—our recreation of the focaccia we spray, then pour 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil ■ Black or green olives, pitted and halved encountered in Bari, Italy. The pizza dough is onto the center of the baking sheet. Gently scrape ■ Roasted red peppers, patted dry and cut into strips unusual in a couple ways: It uses so much water the dough onto the center of the sheet and let rest, ■ Marinated artichoke hearts, patted dry and cut that it verges on a batter, and it rises for at least uncovered, for 20 minutes. into chunks

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:four Christine Tobin hours (be sure to place the bowl in a warm ■ Meanwhile, heat the oven to 500°F with a rack ■ Capers, drained and patted dry ◆

27 The Best of Milk Street 2020

[ FAST& SLOW I nstant P ot C ooking at Your O wn S peed ] Chicken Paprikash

—Active time: 25 minutes | Servings: 4— 2 tablespoons salted butter 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on 1 large yellow onion, finely chicken thighs, skin removed chopped and discarded Kosher salt and ground black 1 cup sour cream pepper 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons sweet paprika 4 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, 1 tablespoon tomato paste divided

START On a 6-quart Instant Pot, select More/High Sauté. Add the butter and let melt. Add the onion, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden brown, about 6 minutes. Add the paprika and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in ½ cup water, scraping up the browned bits. Nestle in the chicken in an even layer, slightly overlapping the pieces if needed.

FAST SLOW Start to finish: 55 minutes Start to finish: 3½ to 4½ hours Press Cancel, lock the lid in Press Cancel, lock the lid in place and move the pressure place and move the pressure valve to Sealing. Select valve to Venting. Select Slow Pressure Cook or Manual; Cook and set the temperature make sure the pressure level to More/Low. Set the cooking is set to High. Set the time for 3 to 4 hours; the ressure-cooked in the instant pot, this Hungarian cooking time for 10 minutes. chicken is done when a skewer classic can be on the table in an hour, and with fewer than When pressure cooking is inserted into the largest thigh 10 ingredients. To streamline the process even more, prep the dill complete, allow the pressure meets no resistance. Press P while the chicken cooks, as it’s not used until the end of cooking to reduce naturally for Cancel, then carefully open to finish the sauce and as a garnish. Paprika is a key ingredient in this 10 minutes, then release the the pot. dish, so make sure yours is fresh and fragrant; paprika that has gone remaining steam by moving stale and lost its flavor and color will result in a bland, lackluster stew. the pressure valve to Venting. Buttered egg noodles are the perfect accompaniment. Press Cancel, then carefully Don’t use low-fat sour cream. It lacks richness and body and will open the pot. make a lean, watery chicken paprikash. FINISH Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a dish and tent with foil. In a small bowl, whisk together the sour cream and for Fast & Slow, milk street uses the cornstarch. Stir the mixture into the pot, then select More/High Sauté Instant Pot’s marriage of sauté pan, pressure cooker and cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce begins to simmer and slow cooker to control the pace of cooking, and is lightly thickened. Press Cancel to turn off the pot, then taste while keeping flavors fresh and bright. We also and season with salt and pepper. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the dill. tested our recipes in several other popular Using potholders, carefully remove the insert from the housing and multicookers and found they worked just as well. pour the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons dill. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

28 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

Story by J.M. Hirsch orecchiette and broccolini. A finish- ing sprinkle of toasted seasoned itting at a wobbling wooden breadcrumbs adds a crisp texture. Stable on the cobblestone street just Don’t use fine dried breadcrumbs outside her home, arms solid from instead of panko breadcrumbs. Their 54 years of kneading pasta, Nunzia sandy, powdery texture doesn’t offer da Scalo effortlessly works a pile of the light, delicate crispness of panko. semolina flour and a bit of water into —Calvin Cox a bowling ball-size mound of pale, skin-soft dough. It’s a scene on repeat 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, at tables stationed streetside outside divided kitchens across Bari. 8 medium garlic cloves, 4 minced, Da Scalo rolls hunks of the dough 4 thinly sliced into thin ropes, and cuts each into 8 oil-packed anchovy fillets, minced ½-inch chunks. Then—with a quick ¾ cup panko breadcrumbs flip of a small knife—one at a time 1½ pounds broccolini, trimmed and she drags each chunk across the table, cut crosswise into ¼-inch pieces transforming it into the tiny cup-like ½ to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes orecchiette pasta for which Puglia Kosher salt and ground black pepper (the heel of the Italian boot) is known. Breadcrumbs, broccolini and anchovies create a pasta with layers of flavor. 12 ounces orecchiette pasta They will dry on a screen in the sun for an hour before being bagged and ■ In a large Dutch oven over medium-­ sold to passersby and local chefs who Orecchiette Pasta with Crunchy high, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil whir past on scooters. until shimmering. Add the minced In the north of Italy, pasta is a Broccolini Sauce garlic and half the anchovies, then flour-and-egg affair. In the south, cook, stirring, until fragrant, about where poverty shaped the cuisine, Rich, savory and dairy-free: Puglia’s classic pasta dish 45 seconds. Add the panko and cook, eggs were a luxury. Semolina flour stirring, until golden brown, about and water, and nothing else. The It seems too simple to be so good. anchovies and punchy chili flakes 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set result is tender and meaty. And when But the starchy, chewy pasta bal- shine brighter. The breadcrumbs add aside; wipe out the pot. shaped as orecchiette—literally, little ances the bittersweet broccoli rabe. texture, a pleasant crunch that soaks ■ In the same pot over medium-high, ears—it is exceptionally good at cup- The anchovies melt, bathing the up the flavorful sauce. heat 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil ping bits of chunky sauce. other ingredients without dominat- Back at Milk Street, we opted for until shimmering. Add the broccolini, One such sauce is what brought me ing. Rather than add real heat, the broccolini over harder-to-find broccoli pepper flakes, sliced garlic, 1½ tea- to da Scalo’s home—orecchiette con chili flakes brighten and lighten. rabe. And we first toasted the bread- spoons salt and ½ teaspoon black pep- cime di rapa, or pasta with bitter As da Scalo leads me into her crumbs with olive oil and half the per. Cook, stirring occasionally, until greens. A heap of orecchiette studded kitchen, where 25-kilogram sacks of anchovies to ensure the breadcrumbs the broccolini is crisp-­tender and the with bits of broccoli rabe, all assem- semolina lean in a corner, I have one would be just as flavorful as the rest garlic is golden brown, 6 to 7 minutes. bled in a skillet and married with concern. I’d learned a version of this of the dish. The result was both Add ½ cup water and continue to savory anchovies and pops of chili. dish years ago outside Pisa, where savory and rich. No cheese needed. cook, stirring, until most of the mois- the finished dish is doused with ture has evaporated and the broccolini grated Parmesan. In Puglia, cheese Orecchiette with Broccolini is fully tender, about 2 minutes. Trans- also was a luxury. They prefer the fer to a medium bowl and set aside. poor man’s alternative: breadcrumbs. I Start to finish: 40 minutes | Servings: 4 ■ In the same pot over medium-high, wonder whether this dish will be recchiette with broccoli rabe boil 5 cups water. Add 2 teaspoons nearly as good. O(orecchiette con cime di rapa) is a salt and the pasta, then cook, stirring Da Scalo’s method is simple. As signature pasta dish from the Puglia occasionally, until the pasta is al the pasta cooks, the broccoli rabe is region of southern Italy. The bit- dente. Stir in the broccolini mixture, blanched and anchovies are sautéed in terness of rabe is challenging for the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and copious olive oil, melting into a savory some palates, so we use sweeter, the remaining anchovies. Continue sauce. When ready, the orecchiette milder broccolini. However, if you like to cook over medium-high, stirring and greens are added, cooked for a the assertiveness of rabe, it can easily constantly, until the liquid has thick- moment, then finished with a flour- be used in place of the broccolini, ened enough to cling lightly to the ish of chili flakes and breadcrumbs. though rabe will cook a little more pasta and broccolini, about 1 minute. When I take a bite, I expect it to quickly. We boil the pasta in a mini- Remove from the heat, then taste be flat without the cheese. Quite the mal amount of water; the starchy and season with salt and pepper. In Bari, pasta is made streetside opposite. Uncluttered by the heft of liquid that remains becomes the Transfer to a serving bowl and sprin-

Photos: Christopher Warde-Jones (bottom);with Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin just semolina flour and water. dairy, the bitter broccoli rabe, savory base for the sauce that marries the kle with the breadcrumbs. ◆

29 The Best of Milk Street 2020

for ramen, you also may want to look for containers of pretoasted ses- ame seeds—they allow you to skip the step of toasting and cooling the seeds. If you like, toss shredded car- rots or cucumber matchsticks into the noodles. Don’t forget to rinse the noodles after draining them. This washes off excess starch that can cause sticki- ness. It also halts cooking so the noo- For the best pasta salads, turn dles don’t overcook. —Calvin Cox

your noodles into ramen 6 tablespoons sesame seeds ¼ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil Stop Making 3 tablespoons soy sauce, plus more as needed Soggy Pasta Salad 3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons mirin With a savory dressing that comes together quickly in the blender, these sesame noodles are both easy and refreshing. 1½ tablespoons roughly chopped fresh ginger Story by Shaula Clark noodle. We took Orkin’s lead and 10 ounces non-instant dried ramen opted for ramen. Instant ramen had Sesame Noodles with Chicken noodles (see note) old pasta salads may be a the wrong texture, but non-­instant and Scallions 1½ cups shredded cooked chicken Csummer staple, but too often they dried ramen, sometimes known as 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced also are a seasonal letdown. Rotini or chuka soba, was perfect and can be Start to finish: 30 minutes | Servings: 4 Chili oil, to serve (optional) farfalle invariably dissolve into bland, found in well-stocked grocery stores. or this recipe, we use non-­ clammy mush as the starchy pasta We also found you can convert Finstant dried ramen (that is, not ■ In an 8-inch skillet over medium, sucks up moisture from the dressing. Italian pasta into ramen. Adding the kind sold 10 packages for $1). toast the sesame seeds, stirring often, Turns out, we’re simply using the baking soda to boiling water creates Ramen noodles get their golden hue until fragrant and lightly browned, 3 to wrong noodles. an alkaline solution that transforms from an alkali—not from egg—mixed 4 minutes. Measure 1 tablespoon into Across Asia, noodle salads are spaghetti into firm, chewy, ramen- into the dough. In addition to alter- a small bowl and set aside for garnish; light, refreshing and never mushy. like noodles. True ramen was bet- ing the color, the alkali makes the add the remaining seeds to a blender Take hiyashi chuka, a cold ramen ter, but the “ramenized” pasta was a noodles chewier, bouncier and more and let cool for a few minutes. dish that’s a summertime staple in close second choice. resilient. These textural qualities mean ■ To the blender, add the grapeseed Japan. Unlike Italian pasta, the noo- With our noodles sorted, we that ramen is well suited to noodle oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, dles stay chewy and bouncy because focused on the dressing and took salads such as this one. Dried ramen mirin, ginger and 2 tablespoons water. they’re made with kansui, a blend of inspiration from the sweet-savory- sometimes is formed into squiggly­- Blend until smooth, about 20 sec- alkaline salts. In addition to adding vinegary profile of those used in many noodled bricks (similar to instant onds, scraping the blender jar as an eggy flavor and yellow hue, kansui Asian salads. We tossed toasted ses- ramen) and sometimes spaghetti-­ needed; set aside. fortifies and strengthens the gluten ame seeds, sesame oil, soy sauce, vin- straight strands. Noodles called chuka ■ In a large pot, bring 2 quarts water in the noodles. This stronger gluten egar, mirin and ginger into the blender, soba or chukamen will work, too. If to a boil. Add the ramen and cook, network wraps around the starches then poured it over boiled noodles. Not Italian pasta is the only type of noodle stirring occasionally, until tender (refer in the noodles, forming a water-­ only was the result wonderfully flavor- available, see How to “Ramenize” to the package for timing, but begin ­resistant barrier that allows ramen to ful, the noodles never turned mushy. Italian Pasta. While you’re shopping checking a few minutes earlier). Drain hold up just as well to cold dressings the noodles in a colander. Rinse under as it does in hot soups. cold running water, tossing well, “The alkali gives ramen that How to “Ramenize” Italian Pasta until fully cooled, then drain again. spring and slurp that you just don’t By boiling Italian pasta in water alkalized with baking ■ Add the noodles to a large bowl. Add get from regular pasta,” says ramen soda, it’s possible to mimic the firm, chewy texture of the chicken, half of the scallions and authority Ivan Orkin, who serves ramen noodles. In a large pot, bring 2 quarts the sesame dressing. Toss until evenly hiyashi chuka at his New York City water to a boil. Add 4 teaspoons baking soda coated. Taste and season with addi- restaurant Ivan Ramen. and 10 ounces thin spaghetti. Cook, stirring tional soy sauce and vinegar, if needed. Setting out to create a refreshing occasionally, until tender. Drain the noodles in Serve sprinkled with the remaining cold noodle dish of our own, we knew a colander, then rinse under cold running water, scallions and toasted sesame seeds. we needed to start with the right tossing well, until fully cooled, then drain again. ◆ Offer chili oil at the table, if desired. ◆ Illustration: A.K. Summers; Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

30 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

The sauce will be a little sweeter and milder, but still delicious. —Julia Rackow

2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon dark miso, such as red or barley miso (see headnote) ½ cup orange juice 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken leg quarters (about 3 pounds total), patted dry Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil 2 medium yellow onions, chopped 12 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced 4 large garlic cloves, smashed and peeled ⅓ cup bourbon The classic Southern smothered chicken gets an umami-packed remake with bold hits of bourbon and miso. ■ In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce and miso until smooth. Edward Lee’s Smothered Chicken Whisk in the orange juice and set aside. Season the chicken on both In this easy braised chicken, the bourbon and miso do the work for you sides with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat Story by Shaula Clark Bourbon, miso and naturally fer- from the outset, the chicken needs the oil until shimmering. Add the mented soy sauces get their complex- only about a half hour of simmering chicken skin down and cook undis- dward lee knows there is a ity and intense depth of flavor in to cook the meat and let the flavors turbed until well browned. Flip and Etime to work hard building fla- part from long aging. Lee’s recipe for meld. The result: a rich, velvety cook until the second sides are also vor, and there’s a time to step back smothered chicken—from his cook- umami-­packed chicken that offers well browned. Transfer to a large and let the flavors work hard for you. book, “Smoke and Pickles”—takes the savory flavors of a long braise in plate, then pour off and discard all And when it comes to his recipe for a advantage of that to create an umami-­ a fraction of the time. but 2 tablespoons fat from the pot. savory-rich braised chicken inspired loaded braise that tastes like a long, ■ Return the pot to medium-high. by the classic smothered pork chops, slow simmer, but actually cooks in Smothered Chicken with Add the onions, mushrooms and gar- it’s very much the latter. less than an hour. Bourbon and Miso lic, then cook, stirring occasionally, Smothering typically refers to Not surprisingly, the success of until beginning to brown. Add the braising meats in gravy, a process the recipe relies on balancing those Start to finish: 50 minutes bourbon and cook, scraping up the that produces tender meat and a rich flavors. And the bourbon plays a key (25 minutes active) | Servings: 4 browned bits, until most of the liquid sauce to ladle over it. It can be a role in that. “Bourbon is a wonderful his is our adaptation of a has evaporated, about 30 seconds. lengthy process, but Lee—who draws ingredient to add when you want a T recipe from “Smoke and Pickles” Pour in the miso mixture and 2 cups on his Korean-American heritage for smoky, aged sweetness with a bit of by Edward Lee. It’s a fantastic East water, then bring to a simmer. Return a novel take on Southern cuisine— leathery caramel flavor,” Lee says. Asian-­inflected spin on an all-Amer- the chicken skin up to the pot and cuts that corner by building his Bourbon has a natural sweetness ican favorite: smothered pork chops. pour in the accumulated juices. braise from ingredients that come thanks to being distilled from at A combination of umami-rich ingre- Cover, reduce to medium-low and to the kitchen already loaded with least 51 percent corn. In addition, dients, woodsy bourbon and sweet- cook, adjusting the heat as needed to savory flavor. Chief among them: the barrel-aging process adds subtle tangy orange juice produces a silky, maintain a gentle simmer, until the bourbon whiskey, dark miso, soy vanilla notes. That combination, along deeply flavored mushroom sauce for thickest parts of the legs reach 175°F, sauce and shiitake mushrooms. with a small amount of orange juice, smothering tender bone-in chicken 20 to 25 minutes. “Most of good cooking is to iden- is key to balancing the saltiness of legs. And to serve on the side? Steamed ■ Using tongs, transfer the chicken tify great ingredients and pair them the miso and soy sauce without add- rice or light, fluffy biscuits—the choice to a serving dish. Bring the sauce to a together,” Lee says. “To me, the miso ing cloying sugary flavors. is yours. boil over high and cook, uncovered and bourbon producers did most of As for the miso, Lee favors Don’t worry if you have the and stirring occasionally, until the the work for you. They spent years cre- darker, stronger misos (such as red) wrong variety of miso. We prefer sauce has thickened to a gravy con- ating a rich, complex product. All you over lighter varieties, as their more dark miso, such as red (aka) or barley sistency, 7 to 9 minutes. Taste and have to do is find a way to combine robust flavors deepen as they cook. (mugi) miso, but white (shiro) miso season with salt and pepper, then

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:them, Christine Tobin and you get to reap the benefits.” By using such bold ingredients is easier to find and more versatile. spoon over the chicken. ◆

31 The Best of Milk Street 2020

Story by Albert Stumm cheese an unctuousness that helps tie everything together. hough meike peters is Ger- Don’t use precrumbled feta, as T man, her blog and cookbook just it lacks flavor and does not combine as often reflect summers spent in well with the cream. Also, don’t use Malta with her American partner’s milk or half-and-half in place of the family. Like Sicily, the Mediterra- cream; their lower fat content will nean island is heavily influenced by cause them to curdle when mixed Arabic ingredients, so we naturally with the lime juice. Finally, don’t make assumed it inspired her to pair roasted the feta-cream mixture until the squash with pistachios, cumin and squash has been transferred to the feta in “365: A Year of Everyday serving platter. If left to stand for too Cooking and Baking.” long, the feta absorbs the moisture We were quite wrong. The idea and the mixture loses its creaminess. actually originated in her aunt’s Ber- —Courtney Hill lin kitchen, where Peters found zuc- chini and bell pepper roasting over a ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil slab of feta one summer. “It tasted 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, lightly very fresh, and not too heavy, so I crushed started to play with that basic rec- 1½ teaspoons packed light brown ipe,” says Peters, whose blog Eat in sugar My Kitchen has become known for 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or its fresh combinations of familiar ¾ teaspoon sweet paprika mixed ingredients. “And now I have versions with ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, for throughout the whole year.” divided For this autumnal variation, she Kosher salt and ground black pepper Vibrant flavors—smoky cumin, briny feta, rich pistachios—accent the squash. coats slices of butternut squash 2-pound butternut squash, peeled, with olive oil and ground cumin, halved lengthwise, seeded and cut whose earthy flavor along with briny crosswise into 1-inch-thick pieces feta balance the squash’s sweetness. The Art of Butternut Squash 4 ounces (1 cup) feta cheese, crumbled Crunchy pistachios lend a textural With feta cheese, cumin and pistachios, (see headnote) contrast to the tender flesh (a combi- Meike 3 tablespoons heavy cream nation she actually picked up from a ¼ teaspoon grated lime zest, plus Sabrina Ghayour recipe, not Malta). Peters elevates an everyday roasted squash ½ teaspoon lime juice This mishmash of influences gave us 3 tablespoons raw or roasted the vivid flavors we were looking for lightly crushed seeds for pops of fla- pistachios, chopped in a winter squash dish, but we had vor as well as additional texture, and Roasted Butternut Squash Heat the oven to 400°F trouble with the feta. It came out rub- we added 1½ teaspoons of light with Cumin Seeds, ■ with a rack bery when roasted as a thick slice, brown sugar to amplify the natural Feta and Pistachios in the lower-middle position. In a large possibly due to the lower ratio of fat sweetness of the squash. bowl, whisk together the oil, cumin, in the feta often available in the U.S. Roasting the squash in a 400°F Start to finish: 50 minutes sugar, ¾ teaspoon Aleppo pepper, Then we remembered a lesson oven stopped short of the deeper car- (20 minutes active) | Servings: 4 1½ teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon from American chef Abra Berens, who amelization we normally want from his flavor-packed winter black pepper. Add the squash and helped us create a burrata-like cheese roasted vegetables. But that was our T squash side dish is an adaptation toss. Distribute in an even layer on a by mixing mozzarella with heavy plan. For this recipe, we wanted to of a recipe from “365: A Year of Every- rimmed baking sheet, then pour any cream. We wondered whether that let the other flavors shine through day Cooking and Baking” by Meike oil remaining in the bowl over the could help us save supermarket feta. without needing to compete with Peters. The earthy sweetness of roasted squash. Roast until golden brown and So we crumbled our feta cheese deeply roasted squash. Meanwhile, butternut is a backdrop for vibrant a skewer inserted into the largest piece and mixed it with 3 tablespoons heavy the creamy feta and crunchy pista- accents: smoky, savory cumin; briny meets no resistance, 35 to 40 minutes. cream, lime juice and zest, and a bit chios tied the dish together. feta; and crunchy pistachios. We like ■ Using a wide metal spatula, trans- of Aleppo pepper for a complemen- “It could be a side, but I often the flavor pop of lightly crushed fer the squash to a serving platter. In tary fruity spice. The mixture mim- have it as a main with some good cumin seeds; a mortar and pestle are a small bowl, fold together the feta, icked the richness of higher-­quality bread,” Peters says of her original a low-tech way to crush the seeds, or cream, lime zest and juice and the feta, and the additional tang of lime version. “It’s a bold combination that’s you can pulse them a few times in an remaining ¼ teaspoon Aleppo pep- lent a cool acidity to contrast the so satisfying, if you have just this electric spice grinder. Mixing the per; the mixture will resemble cot- warm squash. on your plate, you’re happy.” We feta with a few tablespoons of heavy tage cheese. Spoon the feta mixture With the cheese problem solved, couldn’t agree more, no matter where cream is an unusual technique, but over the squash and sprinkle with we switched from ground cumin to it comes from. the cream lends the dryish, crumbly the pistachios. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

32 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

Story by J.M. Hirsch thighs. Breast meat will overcook and lack flavor. —Calvin Cox ietnam is a country of culi- Vnary appropriation. Almost to a ¼ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil point of pride. Admittedly, there were 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed long periods when the people didn’t and peeled have much say in the matter, wave 3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and upon wave of conquerors—Chinese, roughly chopped Mongol, French, Japanese, some 1 medium yellow onion, roughly Portuguese missionaries for good chopped measure—forcing indelible thumb- 3 stalks lemon grass, trimmed to the prints on the country’s cooking. lower 5 or 6 inches, dry outer But chef Peter Franklin—owner layers discarded, thinly sliced of Ănăn Saigon, a Ho Chi Minh City 2 tablespoons coriander seeds restaurant where traditional cooking 2 teaspoons ground turmeric is respected, but also updated—con- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon siders it almost a good thing, an Kosher salt and ground black pepper example of the feisty, adaptable spirit 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken of the Vietnamese. thighs, trimmed and cut crosswise “We take what we want, then we into 1- to 1½-inch pieces kick them out,” he says during an after- 5 star anise pods noon cooking session in which some Vietnamese chicken curry evolved from centuries of trade and marriage. 2 medium carrots, peeled, halved of those thumbprints are particularly and sliced ¼ inch thick evident. “You got some cooking tech- 2 tablespoons fish sauce nique? We’ll take it and then kick your An Indian Curry with ¼ cup lime juice [butt] out. But we stay true to our- Chopped fresh cilantro, to serve selves. I’m not a believer in authentic- Vietnamese Sensibilities ity. We try to respect the cuisine and ■ In a blender, combine the oil, gar- culture, but also move it forward.” Lemon grass and star anise lic, ginger, onion, lemon grass, cori- Movement, in fact, played a key both brighten ander, turmeric, cinnamon, ½ cup role in the development of one of the water and 1 teaspoon each salt and dishes he demonstrates that day— and tame a classic chicken curry pepper. Blend until completely Vietnamese chicken curry, a vibrant, smooth, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping the almost creamy take on the Indian Eventually, the whole thing goes aroma. Many versions of cà ri gà, or jar as needed. Transfer the puree to a classic. Rich with turmeric, but bright- in the pot, along with lemon grass, chicken curry, call for store-bought medium bowl, add the chicken and ened with citrusy lemon grass, a true carrots, water and more fish sauce. A curry powder, but we prefer to mix our stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for child of the trade between India and finish of lime juice, and the dish— own. Serve with steamed jasmine rice. at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. Vietnam dating back centuries. bright, deeply savory and rich—is on Don’t underblend the spice mix- ■ In a 12-inch skillet, combine the As the story goes, over time the table in 35 minutes. All of which ture. Make sure it’s perfectly smooth, chicken and all of the marinade, the Indian men stayed on in Vietnam, made it easy to adapt back at Milk without any fibrous bits from the star anise and carrots. Bring to a marrying Vietnamese women. Try- Street. Our only change was to use lemon grass and ginger. Also, don’t simmer over medium-high and cook, ing to give their husbands a taste of individual spices rather than harder- use chicken breasts in place of stirring occasionally, until the mari- home, the women adapted Indian to-find Vietnamese curry powder. nade begins to brown, 6 to 7 minutes. curries to match Vietnamese sensi- Truly, a curry worth marrying for. Stir in ⅓ cup water and the fish sauce. bilities. More turmeric, ample star Return to a simmer, then cover, anise, less heat and—of course— Vietnamese Chicken Curry reduce to medium-low and cook, plenty of the country’s staple salty stirring occasionally and adjusting seasoning, fish sauce. Start to finish: 35 minutes, plus the heat as needed to maintain a Franklin’s recipe is simple, less marinating | Servings: 4 simmer, until the carrots are crisp-­ structured than traditional Indian cur- urry arrived in Vietnam in tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover and ries, which focus on layering flavors C the 19th century, when both continue to cook, stirring, until the by controlling when ingredients are Indochina and the port of Pondi- sauce thickens enough to cling to the added. Vietnamese cooks tack more cherry, India, were under French rule. chicken, about another 5 minutes. all-in. Chicken is marinated in a blend Lemon grass, fish sauce and star ■ Remove from the heat and stir in of curry powder (in Vietnam an aro- anise were introduced to the dish to the lime juice. Remove and discard the matic mix of turmeric, annatto, chili adapt the flavors to local palates. As a star anise, then taste and season with powder, coriander, cinnamon and result, Vietnamese curry has a uniquely Peter Franklin tastes a world of salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving

Photos: Christopher Warde-Jones (bottom);anise), Connie Miller of CB Creatives (top); Styling: Christine Tobin garlic, ginger and fish sauce. bright, yet deeply savory taste and influences in Vietnamese cooking. dish and sprinkle with cilantro. ◆

33 The Best of Milk Street 2020

[ KITCHEN COUNTS ] Temperature Check ome people are more successful at kitchen improv than others. But cooking S well without recipes isn’t so much about innate talent as it is understanding key equipment. And mastering the oven is at the top of the list. Winging it in the kitchen is easier once you familiarize yourself with oven temperature zones. When you understand the five basic temperature ranges—and the foods that Roasted until richly caramelized, these carrots get an earthy-sweet boost from turmeric-infused honey. cook best in them—it’s easier to simply toss a chicken in to roast, bake up a quick bread, crank out some roasted carrots or whip up turmeric and another common Indian seasoning, a pizza for dinner. Roasted Carrots with whole cumin seeds. And while cumin was our And since not all of this is intuitive—for favorite, we found coriander also was delicious. example, a low oven is best for delicate Turmeric Honey To keep all that richness in check, we finished custards, but also for braised meats, while the dish with a sprinkle of lime zest and juice, an extra-hot oven is best for charring For better carrots, crank up the heat adding bright acidity that balances the sweetness. broccoli as well as quickly cooking tender fish fillets—we’ve broken down the most Story by J.M. Hirsch Roasted Carrots with common oven recipes into the temperature Turmeric Honey n unusual jar of honey and a ripping-hot ranges where they do best. ◆ A sheet pan were the keys to remaking what too Start to finish: 35 minutes | Servings: 4 OVEN TEMPERATURE ZONES often can be a forgettable side dish—roasted carrots. ry to use carrots that are similarly sized so First, the honey. We’ve seen our fair share of T they cook at the same rate. However, if the top infused varieties, everything from ginger and saf- halves of some are very thick, simply cut those sec- LOW (275°-325°F) Baked custards; dried fron to lavender and matcha green tea. Most tions in half lengthwise. We liked these carrots beans; tough, long- haven’t impressed, the secondary flavor either the with cumin seeds, but an equal amount of whole LOW cooking roasts; stews faintest of whispers or so loud it overshadows the coriander seeds can be substituted. 275°-325°F and other braises clean, floral notes of the honey itself. —Courtney Hill But during a recent trip to Mumbai, India, we MODERATE (325°-350°F) discovered turmeric-infused honey. Turmeric is 3 pounds medium carrots, peeled and halved Most baked goods (cakes, used liberally in Indian cooking, adding wonder- on the diagonal cookies, muffins, quick fully rich, earthy flavors to vegetables and meats. Grapeseed or other neutral oil MODERATE 325°-350°F breads, etc.) We loved drizzling the honey over roasted cauli- Kosher salt and ground black pepper flower, the turmeric’s tannic notes complementing ¼ cup honey the sweetly caramelized vegetable while the honey 1 teaspoon cumin seeds MEDIUM-HIGH (375°-400°F) Blind-baked pastry, pork left the florets with a satisfying glaze. ½ teaspoon ground turmeric loin, well-marbled beef We suspected the combination also might work Grated zest and juice of 1 lime MEDIUM HIGH 375°-400°F roasts, whole chickens with naturally sweet carrots. But we knew that pulling the deepest flavors from this simple com- ■ Heat the oven to 500°F with a heavy rimmed bination meant searing the carrots deeply without baking sheet on the middle rack. While the pan HOT (425°-450°F) either burning them or drying them out. heats, in a large bowl, drizzle the carrots with oil, Biscuits and scones, A very hot oven—500°F, in fact—worked well. then season with salt and pepper; toss well. chicken parts, potatoes HIGH Carefully transfer 425°-450°F for roasting, puff pastry But we found we got even richer caramelization if ■ the carrots to the hot baking we first heated the baking sheet in the oven before sheet, then roast until browned in spots and just adding the carrots. It is an effortless way to get tender, about 20 minutes. EXTRA-HOT (475°-500°F) vastly better results, but it does require a baking ■ Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, simmer the Fish fillets, high-moisture yeasted doughs (pizza, sheet heavy enough to stand up to the heat. honey, cumin and turmeric, stirring. Remove EXTRA It also was essential to add the honey only after from the heat and cover to keep warm. When the HOT flatbreads, etc.), most 475°-500°F vegetables for roasting the carrots roasted; the high heat would burn the carrots are done, transfer them to a serving dish, sugar. This gave us an opportunity to warm the then drizzle with the honey and sprinkle with the

honey on the stovetop, better infusing it with the lime zest and juice. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

34 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

Dominique Ansel Changed the Way We Fill and Frost Cakes

Finally! A four-layer cake with a fuss-free filling

Story by Albert Stumm

he classic American layer cake can be a baking mine- field, and much of the chal- T lenge begins and ends with the fillings. It might be a frosting that is tooth-achingly sweet, obliterating the more delicate flavor of the cake. Or it might be a buttercream that’s heavy and dense. Or a sloppy whipped cream that doesn’t properly set. So we revisited this centerpiece dessert with the help of French pastry chef Dominique Ansel, whose latest book, “Everyone Can Bake,” reads like the instructions to a pastry Erector set. Ansel introduced us to a fresh way of thinking about fillings and frost- ings—and it has changed the way we make cakes. Ansel’s book offers a mix-and- match take for making baking This showstopping layer cake—frosted with two kinds of ganache—is easier to make than you might think. approachable. His book is divided into basic building blocks: 13 base recipes, 10 fillings, 11 finishes and seven Dominique Ansel’s ganache stands apart thanks to the techniques, all inviting personalized shuffling to create custom desserts. addition of gelatin. “If you use gelatin in the right proportions in the right way, It’s a formula that works even in his you get beautiful textures, but people are not taught that,” he says. professional kitchen. “We don’t reinvent recipes every day,” says Ansel, who set off a global éclairs—a whipped ganache. Not only can be thin enough to glaze a cake, or Ansel starts by building flavor craze when he created the Cronut at was his whipped white chocolate can be chilled until it sets up enough early in the process, flavoring the hot his New York bakery. “We use the ganache delicious, it also solved the to be shaped for truffle centers or cream with mascarpone and honey. same one and adjust the ingredients, problems of standard fillings by call- whipped cake fillings. He then adds gelatin before blending it then mix and match to create differ- ing on an ingredient that surprised But Ansel’s ganache also stands all with white chocolate. The ganache ent textures. This is what I do in my and impressed us. apart thanks to the addition of gela- is refrigerated overnight, setting up kitchen, so I wanted to bring this to A basic ganache is made by pour- tin. “It’s all about the texture,” he into a thick, gelatinous mixture that home cook level.” ing hot cream over chocolate, then says. “If you use gelatin in the right then is transformed by being whipped For our cake, we were immedi- whisking the melted combination proportions in the right way, you in a stand mixer just before assem- ately drawn to the filling recipe Ansel into a smooth sauce that, depending get beautiful textures, but people are bling the cake. The mixture goes from

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:uses Christine Tobin in many of his cakes and on how much cream it contains, not taught that.” thick and dense Continued on page 36

35 The Best of Milk Street 2020 to having the light, velvety texture of a mousse. The whipped ganache tastes like a fluffy buttercream without the heft Chocolate-Hazelnut and greasiness of butter, instead lifted by the slight tang of silky mas- Cream Cake carpone. And the gelatin gives the filling sufficient structure that it is set. If whipped too soon, it won’t ■ To make the ganache, put the white sturdy enough to stand on its own attain the proper light, fluffy chocolate in a medium bowl; set aside. as a dramatic, creamy middle layer. volume. When spreading the In a small bowl, stir together the gela- With the problem of the filling whipped ganache on the top layer tin and 2 tablespoons water; set aside. solved, we turned our attention to of cake, the less you manipulate it, In a medium saucepan over medium, the cake itself. We mostly stuck with the better. Overworking may cause combine the cream, mascarpone and Ansel’s recipe for his “go-to chocolate the ganache to become grainy and honey. Cook, stirring often, until the cake,” which relies on ½ cup of cocoa lose its velvety smoothness. Finally, mascarpone is fully melted and the powder for its rich chocolate flavor. But don’t allow the cake to stand for mixture begins to bubble at the edges, we opted for buttermilk instead of reg- more than about 30 minutes before 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, ular milk, which not only enhanced the Start to finish: 1¾ hours, serving; if it loses too much of its add the gelatin mixture and whisk chocolate flavor, it also made the cake plus cooling and chilling | Servings: 12 chill, the filling softens and the lay- until completely dissolved. Immedi- sturdier for handling and stacking. his impressive and sumptu- ers may begin to slide apart. ately pour the cream mixture over the Once the 9-inch cake was sliced Tous special-occasion dessert, white chocolate, then let stand for into two layers, we brushed it with an composed of two “go-to” recipes For the whipped ganache: about 1 minute. espresso syrup, which complemented from Dominique Ansel’s book 170 grams (6 ounces) white ■ Whisk the chocolate mixture until the cocoa flavor with a slight, balancing “Everyone Can Bake,” is easier to chocolate, finely chopped completely smooth. Press plastic wrap bitterness. It also sealed the exposed, make than you might think. We did 1 packet (7 grams) unflavored directly against the surface and cool unfrosted edges of the cake to prevent modify both his chocolate cake and gelatin to room temperature, then refriger- the fine crumb from drying out. the mascarpone whipped ganache, 2 cups heavy cream ate until well chilled and fully set, at To bump the flavor, we combined and we also added a coffee syrup for 8-ounce container mascarpone least 4 hours or up to 24 hours. half the ganache with Nutella, though moistening the cake before assem- cheese ■ To make the cake, heat the oven to any chocolate-hazelnut spread works. bly. We fold a chocolate-hazelnut 2 tablespoons honey 350°F with a rack in the middle posi- The Nutella-flavored cream went spread (such as Nutella) into half of tion. Mist the bottom and sides of a between the two soaked chocolate the whipped ganache to sandwich For the cake: 9-by-2-inch round cake pan with layers, with the rest of the ganache between the cake layers; the remain- 40 grams (½ cup) unsweetened cooking spray, line the bottom with a spread across the top. A garnish of ing whipped ganache is spread on Dutch-processed cocoa powder round of kitchen parchment, then chopped hazelnuts provided varying top, creating a unique striped effect. (see headnote), plus more for mist the parchment. Using a paper texture and reinforced the nutty fla- The cake itself has the deepest, rich- the pan towel, evenly spread the oil. Dust the vor in the Nutella layer. ◆ est flavor and color when made with 216 grams (1⅔ cups) all-purpose pan evenly with cocoa and knock out a good-quality dark Dutch-processed flour any excess. cocoa powder—we had the best 321 grams (1½ cups) white sugar ■ In a large bowl, whisk together the results with Valrhona. Part of the ½ teaspoon baking powder cocoa, flour, sugar, baking powder, beauty of this dessert is that the cake ½ teaspoon baking soda baking soda and salt. In a medium and filling can be made ahead; even ½ teaspoon kosher salt bowl, whisk the eggs, buttermilk, oil after assembly, the dessert will hold 2 large eggs and vanilla until homogeneous. Add nicely for up to 24 hours. We recom- 1 cup buttermilk, preferably low-fat the liquid ingredients to the dry mend making the ganache base and ⅔ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil ingredients, and, using a large sili- the cake a day in advance and refrig- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract cone spatula, fold until the batter is erating them separately. The follow- completely smooth. ing day, whip the ganache, assemble For the soaking syrup: ■ Pour the batter into the prepared the dessert and refrigerate for at least 71 grams (⅓ cup) white sugar pan, then rap the pan 4 or 5 times two hours or for up to an entire day. 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder against the counter to release any For neat slices, cut the cake with a large air bubbles. Bake until a tooth- serrated knife that’s been warmed in For assembly: pick inserted at the center of the cake hot water and wiped dry. To store 95 grams (⅓ cup) chocolate- comes out clean, about 45 minutes. leftovers, press plastic wrap directly hazelnut spread, such as Nutella Cool in the pan on a wire rack for against the cakes’ cut sides and 35 grams (¼ cup) toasted skinned about 20 minutes. Run a paring knife refrigerate for up to two days. hazelnuts, half roughly chopped, around the edge of the cake to loosen, Chef Dominique Ansel introduced Don’t whip the ganache before half very finely chopped, then invert it onto the rack and lift us to a fresh approach to layer cakes. the mixture is completely cold and reserved separately off the pan. Remove and discard the Photos: Brent Herrig (Dominique Ansel); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (cake); Styling: Christine Tobin

36 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

Change the Way You Cook Make Better Ganache with Gelatin he key to unbelievably velvety T ganache? Just add gelatin. After letting the gelatin-infused mixture 1. Using a pastry brush, 2. Using a serrated knife and a 3. Slice the cake horizontally 4. Transfer the other layer 5. Brush the surface of both thicken, whip it in a stand mixer— brush the sides of the cake gentle sawing motion, slice off into two even layers. to a cake platter; this will cake layers with the remaining the whipping transforms it into a evenly with about one-fourth the domed surface of the cake, Carefully lift off the top layer become the bottom layer of syrup. The layers should be frosting that’s light and fluffy, yet of the syrup. creating a level top. and set aside. the cake. well moistened but not soggy. sturdy enough for a filling.

layers. Carefully lift off the top layer and set aside; transfer the bottom layer to a cake platter. Brush the sur- face of both cake layers with all of the remaining syrup, dividing it evenly; the layers should be well moistened but not soggy. ■ Transfer the chilled ganache to the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the 6. Transfer the chilled 7. Using the whisk attachment, 8. Add half of the ganache to whisk attachment, whip on high until ganache mixture to the bowl whip on high until light and the bowl containing the lightened and fluffy, about 5 minutes, of a stand mixer fitted with fluffy, 5 minutes, scraping chocolate-hazelnut spread, scraping the bowl once. Meanwhile, a whisk attachment. the bowl once. and fold until homogeneous. put the chocolate-hazelnut spread in a large bowl and stir to smooth and soften. Scoop half (about 440 grams/ 3 cups) of the whipped ganache into the bowl containing the chocolate-­ hazelnut spread and, using a silicone spatula, gently fold until homoge- neous. Scoop the chocolate-hazelnut ganache onto the center of the bottom cake layer, then use an offset icing spatula to spread it in an even layer, all the way to the edges of the cake. ■ Using a wide metal spatula, 9. Scoop the chocolate-hazel- 10. Using a wide metal 11. Re-whip the remaining 12. Scatter the finely chopped hazelnuts over the top, followed lift the nut ganache onto the center of spatula, lift the top cake ganache until smooth, then by the roughly chopped hazelnuts. Refrigerate uncovered for at top cake layer and gently center it on the bottom cake layer, then layer and gently center it on scoop it onto the top layer of least 2 hours or for up to 24 hours. Before serving, let the cake the chocolate-hazelnut ganache layer; use an offset icing spatula to the chocolate-hazelnut the cake and spread it into an stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes. For neat slices, do not press on the cake. Using the spread it into an even layer all ganache layer; do not press even layer or, if desired, create cut the cake with a serrated knife that has been warmed in hot whisk attachment, re-whip the remain- the way to the edges. on the cake. swirls in the surface. water and wiped dry. ing ganache on high until smooth, about 30 seconds. Scoop it onto the center of the top layer of the cake and parchment, then carefully re-invert bowl, stir together the sugar and ¼ cup surface. Using a pastry brush, brush spread it in an even layer or, if desired, the cake and let cool completely. water. Microwave on high for 30 sec- the sides of the cake evenly with create swirls in the surface. Scatter Wrap the cake in plastic wrap and set onds, then stir until the sugar is fully 1½ tablespoons of the syrup. Using the finely chopped nuts over the top, on a large, flat plate. Refrigerate for at melted and the syrup is clear. Add the a serrated knife and a gentle saw- followed by the roughly chopped nuts. least 4 hours or up to 24 hours. instant espresso and whisk until dis- ing motion, carefully slice off and Refrigerate uncovered for at least ■ When ready to assemble, make the solved. Cool to room temperature. remove the domed surface of the 2 hours or for up to 24 hours. Before soaking syrup. In a 1-cup liquid mea- ■ Unwrap the chilled cake and set cake, creating a level top. Now slice serving, let the cake stand at room

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:suring Christine Tobin cup or small microwave-safe it on a cutting board or other flat the cake horizontally into 2 even temperature for 20 to 30 minutes. ◆

37 The Best of Milk Street 2020

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] At La Cocina de Mi Mamá, a restaurant at the Coyoacán Market in Mexico City, they serve panqué de elote, a slightly sweet corn cake that makes one rethink cornbread

We visited Adriana Luna at her Coyoacán Market restaurant for fajitas Veracruz style, but also discovered a local specialty, panqué de elote.

t was predawn at the Mer- dense. After a half dozen varia- cado de Coyoacán. Pastel store- Mexican Sweet Corn Cake tions—we even tried frozen corn fronts. Light streaming out of (the results were gummy) and Ithe market aisles in ribbons Story by Christopher Kimball cornmeal instead of fresh corn— onto the dark sidewalk. And qui- we still were stumped. The texture et—a refreshing, almost unnerv- As Luna prepped and we set expect and a suggestion of sweet- was elusive. ing experience for Mexico City. We up for the shoot, she served large ness without being sweet. I fin- Finally, after another half dozen had come to make fajitas—puntas coffees and slices of corn cake— ished two pieces and could have cakes, we ended up with some- de la Veracruzana—with Adriana panqué de elote—dusted with pow- easily tucked into a third. thing pretty close to the original by Luna, who runs La Cocina de Mi dered sugar with a sprig of rosemary Luna introduced me to her way of adding cornmeal, corn- Mamá at the back of the market. upstanding. It didn’t look like baker, who revealed two key facts: starch and yogurt, but keeping the She has a broad 100-watt smile. cornbread. It was fluffier, lighter and The only sugar came in the form grated fresh corn and the sweet- The restaurant is modern and more cake-like, if the cake were of sweetened condensed milk and ened condensed milk. We also well equipped in contrast to the more devil’s food than layer cake. the batter was made entirely in a substituted oil for butter, which many market restaurants that are The first bite was a game- blender. The ingredient list was produces moister cakes (think car- more higgledy-piggledy with pro- changer. It was only slightly sweet, short: grated corn, milk, sweet- rot cake). The first part of the recipe pane burners and makeshift work- moist and nothing like cornbread, ened condensed milk, eggs, flour, was made in a blender, but then spaces. Behind the restaurant, which which is denser and cornier. On the butter and baking powder. No we folded the dry ingredients into has wooden tables and a lunch second and third bites, it was the bowl needed. the liquid ingredients in a bowl for counter, was an impressive bar with texture that really took hold— Back at Milk Street, we ran into best texture. dozens of beer varieties and full ser- softer and more velvety than cake. problems. Turns out Mexican corn At home, I have made this rec- vice, a great place to end the day. But Bite after bite, I couldn’t quite size is starchier and less sweet than ipe many times. The last piece it was still morning before the mar- up the flavor, which was more American varieties, which meant always is eaten within 24 hours— ket was open: chilly with just a hint whisper than declaration. A hint we were not getting the texture we the ultimate test for this simple of the hustle and bustle to come. of corn flavor, but less than you wanted. It was too sweet and too homemade cake. ◆ Kimball Christopher Photos:

38 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET S pecial I ssue

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Mexican Sweet Corn Cake (Panqué de Elote)

Start to finish: 1¼ hours in the U.S. If you have more than 3 medium ears fresh corn, (25 minutes active), plus cooling 250 grams (1½ cups) corn after preferably yellow, husked Servings: 8 to 10 cutting the kernels from the ears, 36 grams (¼ cup) fine yellow The first bite was a his simple baked treat it’s best to save the extra for cornmeal game-changer. It was T is a common offering in Mex- another use rather than use it in 14-ounce can sweetened ico City. Called panqué de elote, this recipe; the additional mois- condensed milk only slightly sweet, pan de elote or pastel de elote, its ture may make the cake too wet. 57 grams (¼ cup) plain whole- moist and nothing texture lands somewhere between Yellow corn yields a cake with a milk yogurt cake and cornbread while hinting warm golden hue, but white corn 165 grams (1¼ cups plus 2 table- ­ like cornbread. at custard. At La Cocina de Mi also works. spoons) all-purpose flour Mamá, we had it for breakfast, as Don’t use frozen corn—it 2 tablespoons cornstarch it’s commonly served, but fin- results in a dense, gummy texture. 2 teaspoons baking powder cooking spray. Using a chef’s knife, ished with a dusting of powdered Made with fresh corn, the cake’s ½ teaspoon kosher salt cut the kernels from the ears of sugar, it also makes a casual, crumb is much lighter and softer. 2 large eggs, plus 2 large egg yolks corn. Measure 250 grams (1½ cups) homey dessert. Cornmeal is not a After adding the flour mixture to ½ cup grapeseed or other kernels and add to a blender; if typical ingredient in panqué de the corn puree, don’t whisk vig- neutral oil you have extra corn, reserve it for elote; we add a small amount to orously. Gentle mixing, just until Powdered sugar, to serve another use. To the blender, add account for the fact that the fresh no pockets of flour remain, will the cornmeal, condensed milk and Mexican corn used for making minimize gluten development ■ Heat the oven to 350°F with a yogurt, then puree until smooth, this type of cake is starchier and so the cake bakes up tender. rack in the middle position. Mist 15 to 20 seconds, scraping down drier than the fresh corn available —Calvin Cox a 9-inch round cake pan with the blender as needed. Let stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking pow- der and salt. ■ To the blender, add the whole eggs and yolks, and the oil; blend on low until smooth, 5 to 10 sec- onds. Pour the puree into a large bowl. Add the flour mixture and whisk just until evenly moistened and no lumps of flour remain. Transfer to the prepared cake pan and bake until golden and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. ■ Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Run a paring knife around the pan to loosen the cake, then invert directly onto the rack and lift off the pan. Re-invert the cake onto a serving platter and cool com- pletely, about 1 hour. Serve dusted Made in a blender, this corn cake batter uses sweetened condensed milk and no other form of sugar. with powdered sugar. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

39 The Best of Milk Street 2020

This Swedish chocolate cake is so rich, it’s practically a brownie Sticky-Rich Chocolate Cake

Story by Shaula Clark

hen it comes to chocolate desserts, often Wthe fudgier, the better. But achieving that perfect texture can be surprisingly tricky. So for a lesson in baking up perfectly gooey chocolate cakes, we looked to Sweden, where a sta­ ple of afternoon fika—or coffee break—is kladd­ kaka, or “sticky cake.” The brownie-like treat balances crisp edges with a soft interior just shy of molten. Equally appealing is its simplicity, calling for just a handful of ingredients that need little more than a good stir before going into the oven The only trick? Mastering how long to bake it. Underbake it, and the cake will be runny; over­ bake it, and it will be unpleasantly dry. So we set out to create a version of kladdkaka that bakes up flawlessly gooey every time. We started by adjusting the ratio of ingredi­ Deeply chocolatey, this simple cake is inspired by kladdkaka—a brownie-like treat popular in Sweden. ents in the batter. Reducing the amount of flour and cocoa powder while adding more eggs and 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) salted butter, cut into butter went a long way to ensuring we got the fin­ Swedish “Sticky” Chocolate Cake 12 pieces ished texture we wanted. Next, we tweaked our 40 grams (½ cup) unsweetened cocoa powder, baking strategy: While recipes for kladdkaka Start to finish: 45 minutes (20 minutes active), plus more to serve often call for cranking up the oven and baking the plus cooling | Servings: 10 to 12 249 grams (1¼ cups) packed dark brown sugar cake for just a few minutes, we found that the his gooey-centered chocolate cake, a 4 large eggs opposite approach—cooking the cake at a rela­ T popular sweet in Sweden, is called kladdkaka, ½ teaspoon kosher salt tively low 325°F for a full 30 minutes—gave us bet­ which translates as “sticky cake.” With only seven 98 grams (¾ cup) all-purpose flour ter control over the texture. ingredients and an easy dump-and-stir mixing 75 grams (½ cup) chocolate chips After that, it was simply a matter of fine-tuning method, it’s easy to love. For our version, we ■ Heat the oven to 325°F with a rack in the middle the flavors. Browning the butter gave the recipe brown the butter to add a subtle nuttiness, and we position. Mist a 9-inch springform pan with cook­ depth, while replacing white sugar with brown use brown sugar for its molasses notes. The cake ing spray and line the bottom with a round of added complex, caramel notes without increasing can be served warm or at room temperature. Top kitchen parchment. the already-svelte ingredient list. slices with whipped cream, ice cream or gelato. ■ In a medium saucepan over medium-­high, With that, we’d found the formula for a simple Don’t whisk the eggs into the cocoa-sugar cook the butter, stirring, until the milk solids at chocolate cake that’s easy, elegant and—most mixture while the mixture is still hot or the eggs may the bottom of the pan are browned and the butter importantly—reliably gooey. begin to cook on contact. —Rose Hattabaugh has a nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Whisk in the cocoa and sugar until smooth; transfer the mix­ powdered sugar until uniform and frothy, ture to a medium bowl and let cool until barely Flavored Whipped Creams then whip until soft peaks form.ALTERNA - warm to the touch. lain whipped cream is fine, but a TIVE SUGARS also are an option: Mix 1 cup ■ One at a time, whisk the eggs into the cocoa- Pcake this rich begs for a topping spiked heavy cream and 1 tablespoon light brown sugar mixture, followed by the salt. Whisk in the with bright, balancing flavors. And making sugar until smooth, then whip until soft peaks flour, add the chocolate chips and stir until evenly those tweaks to your typical whipped topping form. Or better yet, something BOOZY: Mix distributed. Spread the batter evenly in the pre­ is easy. Try a TANGY DAIRY variation by 1 cup heavy cream, 1½ tablespoons powdered pared pan. Bake until the edges of the cake spring mixing 1 cup heavy cream, ¼ cup Greek sugar and 1 teaspoon kirsch or orange back when lightly pressed, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool yogurt or sour cream and 1½ tablespoons liqueur until uniform, then whip as usual. in the pan for 30 minutes, then remove the pan

sides. Serve dusted with cocoa powder. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

40 Illustration: Kendyll Hillegas tall sides to capture ingredients that are meant to be tobe meant are that ingredients tocapture sides tall has one clay The purposes. different serving each clay, or with granite either of made are mortars Thai Kruk balls). (fish tsumire to make fish grinding or nuts pulverizing seeds, sesame grinding while grooves the damage doesn’t which tree, ash prickly the from wood asoft of made is traditionally surikogi, a called pestle, The grinding. efficient more for ingredients grip that grooves fine with cut is which interior, the of sides sloping gently the on not but outside the on glazed is tool Japanese this of bowl ceramic The Suribachi hard bowl and a small, club-like tool for grinding or mashing food and medicine dates medicine and food mashing or grinding for tool club-like asmall, and bowl hard Consider the mortar and pestle the food processor of the ancient world. The use of a of use The world. ancient the of processor food the pestle mortar and the Consider mashed at the bottom. Cooks “pok pok” (the sound sound (the pok” “pok Cooks bottom. at the mashed uniform texture they produce. Designs vary by culture, determined both by available vary by Designs culture, determined produce. they texture uniform prefer a mortar and pestle for the greater control they give the cook and the less less the and cook the give they greater control the for pestle amortar and prefer of pounding has become the verb) garlic, chilies, chilies, garlic, verb) the become has pounding of sugar and more to create a paste, then add then apaste, tocreate more and sugar to at least 35,000 B.C. Though a processor is faster, people around the world still still world the faster, around is people aprocessor to Though at B.C. 35,000 least strands of green papaya to bruise them so they they so them tobruise papaya green of strands soften and absorb the dressing. The rough rough The dressing. the absorb and soften materials and the ingredients they are used with. Here is asampling. is Here with. used are they ingredients the materials and sides of a granite mortar, which is is which mortar, agranite of sides Mortars and Pestles and Mortars shaped more like a bowl, are are abowl, like more shaped into curry paste. paste. curry into spices grinding for better leaving the paste to soak overnight. overnight. tosoak paste the leaving and chilies and oil garlic, mashing then bits, loose away toknock rice grinding by seasoned is surface porous The mole. importantly, most and, chocolate hot for cacao guacamole, sauces, into vegetables other and tomatoes chilies, togrind used is material, same the of stone arough tejolote, Its rock. volcanic from carved bowl athree-footed is pot, sauce for words Aztec the from derived aname molcajete, Mexican The Molcajete seasoned before use. before seasoned tobe need tools rough These foods. coarse up break help to at intervals added is Salt consistency. a chunky to pestle the of end flat the under ingredients grinding for ideal is surface granite rough Its meal. every with served sauce chili the sambal, making for essential considered are pestle horn-shaped its and mortar Indonesian shallow This Cobek create more surface area for grinding ingredients. grinding for area surface more create pestle comes with thicker ball- or bat-like ends that that ends bat-like or ball- thicker with comes pestle wooden The grains. starchy or cassava from fufu good for dehulling tough grains like millet, or to make tomake or millet, like grains tough dehulling for good chili and garlic. The larger, reaching thigh high, is is high, thigh reaching larger, The garlic. and chili and condiments such as rof, a combination of parsley, parsley, of acombination rof, as such condiments and to smash fresh ingredients into sauces, stuffings stuffings sauces, into ingredients fresh to smash wedding gift for a new bride. A smaller one is used used is one Asmaller bride. anew for gift wedding names other many na’ and odo long pestle long In West Africa, the goblet-shaped mortar and and mortar goblet-shaped the Africa, West In Mortier etpilon —which also goes by wawru undugal, undugal, wawru by goes also ­—which —still is a traditional atraditional is ­—still ◆ Special Issue – Best of 2020 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Change the Way You Cook ◆ Photo: Name TK

◆ Up at 3 a.m. each day, the Diêp family crafts rice noodles by hand.— Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam ◆