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Makeup ISBN 978-961-93888-6-0 2019/2020« Sofinancirata Republika Slovenija in Evropska Unija Iz Ev- Routines During COVID-19 (Self-) Isolation 1

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Makeup ISBN 978-961-93888-6-0 2019/2020« Sofinancirata Republika Slovenija in Evropska Unija Iz Ev- Routines During COVID-19 (Self-) Isolation 1 Roževina zgodovine: Kozmetika v družbi in času Zbornik prispevkov raziskovalnega in mednarodnega razstavnega projekta Corneous Stories: Cosmetics in Society and Time Volume of contributions from a research and international exhibition project Uredili / Edited by Katja Kobolt in / and Petja Grafenauer Mesto žensk - Društvo za promocijo žensk v kulturi / City of Women – Association for the Promotion of Women in Culture Univerza v Ljubljani, Akademija za likovno umetnost in oblikovanje / University of Ljubljana The Academy of Fine Arts and Design 2020 in Ljubljana / v Ljubljani Naslov publikacije / Title of the publication: Letnica izida in leto natisa / Year: 2020 Roževina zgodovine: Kozmetika v družbi in času Zbornik prispevkov raziskovalnega in mednarodnega razstavnega pro- Število natisnjenih izvodov / Print run: 220 jekta Maloprodajna cena publikacije / Retail price: 15 € Corenous Stories: Cosmetics in Society and Time Volume of contributions from a research and international exhibition Umetniško vodstvo / Artistic direction: Katja Kobolt v sodelovanju s / in Kazalo project collaboration with N*A*I*L*S hacks*facts*fictions, Teja Reba, Uwe Reissig, Urban Šrimpf, Katja Bradač in / and Petja Grafenauer CIP - Kataložni zapis o publikaciji Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica, Ljubljana Produkcija in koordinacija / Production and Coordination: Eva Prodan 5 Katja Kobolt in / and Petja Grafenauer: Uvodnik / Editorial 7(100)-055.2(083.82) Svetovanje oblikovanja razstave / Exhibition design advisor: 8 Mareike Bernien: Toxic Polish 7.091(497.4Ljubljana)"2020" Lenka Đorojević 16 Mednarodni skupinski projekt in razstava Roževina ROŽEVINA zgodovine : kozmetika v družbi in času : zbornik prispevkov Koordinacija študentskega meddisciplinarnega raziskovalnega projekta Zgodovine / International Group Project and Exhibition raziskovalnega in mednarodnega razstavnega projekta = Corenous stories (Projektno delo z negospodarskim in neprofitnim sektorjem Študentski Corenous Stories : cosmetics in society and time : volume of contributions from a research inovativni projekti za družbeno korist 2019/2020) / Coordination of the and international exhibition project / [uredili, edited by Petja Grafenau- student research project: Daša Tepina er in, and Katja Kobolt ; prevodi Rebeka Hvala ... et al.]. - Izvirna izd. = Diskurzivni salon izvirnih Original version. - Ljubljana : Mesto žensk - društvo za promocijo žensk Podpora: Ministrstvo za kulturo, Ministrstvo za izobraževanje, znanost znanstvenih člankov / Discursive v kulturi = City of Women - Association for the Promotion of Women in in šport – Javni štipendijski, razvojni, invalidski in preživninski sklad (Štu- Parlour of peer reviewed articles Culture, 2020 dentski raziskovalni projekt ŠIPK – »Projektno delo z negospodarskim in neprofitnim sektorjem – Študentski inovativni projekti za družbeno korist 34 Petja Grafenauer: The Abscence of the Other: Makeup ISBN 978-961-93888-6-0 2019/2020« sofinancirata Republika Slovenija in Evropska unija iz Ev- Routines During COVID-19 (self-) Isolation 1. Vzp. stv. nasl. 2. Grafenauer, Petja ropskega socialnega sklada), Ministrstvo za javno upravo, Mestna občina 43 COBISS.SI-ID 28783363 Ljubljana, Goethe-Institut Ljubljana Svetlana Slapšak: The Colors of War: Makeup / Supported by: Creative Europe, Ministry of Culture, Ministry of Edu- 48 Brigita Miloš: Hairy Stories Naziv ali ime nosilca avtorskih pravic / Name of the copyrights holders: cation, Science and Sport (“Project Work with the Non-Economic and 55 Katja Kobolt: Cosmetics, Cars and the ‘‘Diesel exhaust Mesto žensk - Društvo za promocijo žensk v kulturi / City of Women – Non-Profit Sector – Students Innovative Projects for the Benefit of Society Association for the Promotion of Women in Culture 2019/2020” is co-financed by the Republic of Slovenia and the European curtain’’ Union from the European Social Fund), Ministry of Public Administration, Univerza v Ljubljani, Akademija za likovno umetnost in oblikovanje / Uni- City of Ljubljana, Goethe-Institut Ljubljana Vizualni salon / Visual Parlour versity of Ljubljana The Academy of Fine Arts and Design in / and Organizacija / Organization: Mesto žensk, v okviru evropskega projekta 69 Lea Culetto: Gloves / Rokavice Mereike Bernien, Lea Culetto, Jerneja Erhatič, Lenka Đorojević, Petja BePart, ki ga sofinancira program Evropske unije Ustvarjalna Evropa. / City 74 Lenka Đorojević: EXIT Grafenauer, Rebeka Hvala, Jaka Juhant, Johanna Käthe Michel, Katja of Women in the framework of European project BePart, supported by 78 Kobolt, Petra Lapajne, Brigita Miloš, Ana Obid, Zdenka Pandžić, Neja Creative Europe Programme Johanna Käthe Michel: Poem Blond Rakušček, Svetlana Slapšak, Lucija Šerak, Iza Štrumbelj Oblak in / and umetice razstave / artists of the exhibition Partnerji / Partners: Mesto žensk - Društvo za promocijo žensk v kulturi Izsledki raziskovalnega projekta / / City of Women - Association for the Promotion of Women in Culture , Izvirna izdaja / Original version Goethe-Institut Ljubljana, District Berlin, Galerija Škuc / Škuc Gallery, Aka- Research project results demija za likovno umetnost in oblikovanje Univerze v Ljubljani / University 82 Jerneja Erhatič: Zgodovina ličenja in toksičnost ličil Število strani / page number 128 of Ljubljana The Academy of Fine Arts and Design 87 Neja Rakušček: Ženska lepota v novodobništvu Urednici / Editors: Petja Grafenauer in / and Katja Kobolt 91 Lucija Šerak: Naravna kozmetika 96 Ana Obid: Parfum v socialistični Sloveniji Pomoč pri urejanju uvodnika / Editorial assistance introduction: Tea Hvala 102 Petra Lapajne: O domači kozmetiki Lektoriranje in prevodi slovenskih besedil / Proofreading of Slovenian 108 Rebeka Hvala: Tri pripovedi o trendih naravnega ličenja texts: Rebeka Hvala, Neja Rakušček, Lucija Šerak; Sonja Benčina (uvodnik / editorial) Vizualni salon / Visual Parlour Lektoriranje in prevodi angleških besedil / Proofreading of English texts: 116 Iza Štrumbelj Oblak: Industrija obupa Sonja Benčina (besedila diskurzivnega salona / texts of the discursive 122 Zdenka Pandžić: 2020 Venus parlour), Zdenka Pandžić (povzetki / abstracts) 126 Jaka Juhant: I Will Make Myself so Strong and Beautiful Tehnični urednici / Technical editing: Jerneja Erhatič, Ana Obid Oblikovanje / Layout: Jaka Juhant Svetovalka oblikovanja / Layout advisor: Vesna Bukovec Avtorica podobe na naslovnici / Author of the cover image: Zdenka Pandžić Priprava slikovnega gradiva za tisk / Image processing: Iza Štrumbelj Oblak Koordinacija / Coordination of the publication: Petra Lapajne Recenzenta / Reviewers: dr. Martin Pogačar, prof. dr. Janko Žmitek Izdajatelj / Publisher: Mesto žensk - Društvo za promocijo žensk v kulturi / City of Women – Association for the Promotion of Women in Culture, Kersnikova 4, SI-1000 Ljubljana. *Uvodnik Kaj uvidimo, ko Editorial družbo in zgodovino pogledamo skozi kozmetiko in lepotno delo? What do we realize when we look at society and history through cosmetics and beauty work? Transdisciplinarni projekt Roževina zgodovine obsega ra- The Corneous Stories transdisciplinary project encompass- ziskovalni projekt, zbornik, mednarodno skupinsko razs- es a student research project, a publication, an interna- tavo in program kulturno-umetnostne vzgoje. Umetnice,* tional group exhibition, and an art education programme. študentke, raziskovalke in umetnostne pedagoginje smo v In Corneous Stories, artists, students, researchers, and art Roževini zgodovine s skupnimi močmi razpirale nov po- pedagogues have joined forces to open a new perspective gled na zgodovino in družbo z vidika kozmetike in lepot- on history and society through the prism of cosmetics and nega dela. beauty labour. Kozmetika, ki je v tej publikaciji razumljena široko, Perceived as a wide concept in this publication, cosme kot družbena dejavnost predvsem v polju dekorativnih tics is seen as a mainly women’s everyday practice, as well izdelkov, velja za pretežno žensko vsakdanjo prakso ka- as the practice of some non-binary genders, especially in kor tudi prakso nekaterih nebinarnih spolov, uveljavlja the field of decorative products, although it is also gaining pa se tudi pri moškem delu populacije, ki se identificira popularity with cisgendered¹ male population. Largely de- s cisspolom¹. Kot takšna je predvsem v rokah množičnih fined by mass media and the cosmetic industry, cosmetics medijev in kozmetično-storitvene industrije. Zato sta and beauty labour are usually understood as “trivial” and kozmetika in lepotno delo velikokrat razumljena kot ne- unimportant and rarely feature as a subject of research kaj „trivialnega” in nepomembnega ter sta tako redko although they include multiple industries and carry wide predmet raziskovanja, četudi vključujeta številne gospo- social meanings. Everyday cosmetic practices are, how- darske panoge in nosita širše družbene pomene. Vsakdan- ever, not only closely intertwined with material practice, Prosto dostopna elektronska verzija zbornika / je kozmetične prakse pa niso le tesno prepletene z mater- economy, gender expression (especially women’s appear- Open access to the e-version of the volume ialno prakso, ekonomijo in spolnim izrazom (predvsem ance), and aesthetic-formal articulation, but also with the http://www.cityofwomen.org/zbornik_ videzom žensk) ter estetsko-formalno artikulacijo, ampak regimes of labour, with the paradigms that predominate- rozevinazgodovine.pdf 1 Cisspolnost, pojem prevzet iz angleškega govornega področja, označuje identifikacijo družbenega spola s spolom, dodeljenim ob rojstvu. Cisgender
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