Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ☐ Winter 2013 ☐ Volume XXVIII, No. 1 CENTENNIAL CELEBRATINGSaving GLACIER’S the HUNDREDTHReds, again... (Photo courtesy of Bret Bouda)

The public rallies to prevent retirement of Glacier’s historic bus fleet – probably the oldest in the world

Also In this issue: • The Bear Attacks of 1967 • Hiking Gunsight Pass • Tales of the Boat Dock • The Buying and Selling of Glacier Park • The Pending Long-Term Concession Contract • The GPL Reunion • In Memorium • Youth and Maturity in Glacier The Inside Trail ◆ Winter 2005 ◆ 1 Editorial: The Importance of Public Involvement

The generally groups and public meetings, and resources in the park. In the pres- does well-considered and admirable eventually issued a moderate plan ent case, however, it made a major work in managing Glacier National that enjoyed almost universal sup- decision without public input – and Park. On rare occasions, however, port. almost everyone now recognizes that the decision was wrong. We com- it makes a major misjudgment, and A similar episode just has trans- mend Acting Superintendent Kym the public has to call for a change of pired. (See “Saving the Reds,” p. Hall and her colleagues for promptly course. 3) Prompt public objection and a and graciously changing course. A notable instance occurred in 1996. change of course by the Park Service At that time, the Park Service re- has resolved the situation. But it The lesson of 1996, repeated here, leased a draft General Management shows the importance of active con- is for the Park Service to solicit Plan for Glacier. It proposed remov- sultation between park managers and public comment. Consulting the ing longstanding visitor facilities, users of the park. experience, the perspective, and the common sense of park users is a safe- such as Avalanche Campground and The Park Service generally holds guard against such very rare manage- Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. public comment periods before it rial misjudgments. The Hungry Horse Newsran an makes significant decisions affecting editorial attacking the draft plan, which bluntly stated that “the public The lesson of 1996, repeated here, is for the Park shouldn’t stand for it.” And the Service to solicit public comment. Consulting public didn’t. The Glacier Park Foundation and hundreds of citi- the experience, the perspective, and the common zens spoke out about the issue. A sense of park users is a safeguard against such survey showed that more than 90% very rare managerial misjudgments. of the public opposed the plan. The Park Service withdrew it, held focus

Glacier Park Foundation Officers: P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President Minneapolis, MN 55415 Carol Dahle, Vice President www.glacierparkfoundation.org Mac Willemssen, Secretary [email protected] Tessie Bundick, Historian Jim Lees, Treasurer Board of Directors: The Inside Trail takes its name Laura Chihara, Webmaster Tessie Bundick Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor from the famous old trail Laura Chihara which connected Glacier Janet Eisner Cornish Park Lodge with the vanished Carol Repulski Dahle The Glacier Park Foundation was Joyce Daugaard formed by Glacier Park employees chalets at , Ray Djuff and visitors who have a deep love for Cut Bank, and St. Mary. The this special place. The Foundation is John Hagen commited both to the importance name thus emphasizes the Paul Hoff of wilderness preservation and to publication’s focus on the Ron Kolb the importance of places like Glacier Mark Hufstetler as classrooms where people can lore and history of Glacier Jeff Kuhn experience wilderness in intense National Park. We invite meaningful ways, learning not only a Linda Young Kuhn submission of historical, love for the land, but also a respect Rolf Larson that nurtures the skills necessary to scientific, or anecdotal ar- Leroy Lott preserve that land. The Foundation ticles, commentary, poetry, Greg Notess has a special interest in Glacier Park’s John Sauer history, traditions and visitor facilities. or artwork for publication in Rick Taylor future issues. Mac Willemssen

2 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail SAVING THE REDS, Again. . . By John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970- contract, to run for 16 years. (See A grassroots effort quickly was orga- 80) “Concession Contract Pending,” p. nized to preserve the historic fleet. 4.) A complex prospectus of terms Ray Djuff, a journalist and author of Glacier National Park’s storied red and expectations was posted online numerous books on Glacier’s history, bus fleet almost certainly is the oldest in December. (See www.concessions. was one of the first to read the pro- operational fleet of buses in the world. nps.gov/prospectuses.htm.) spectus and recognize the threat to the The 33 vehicles, with their striking fleet. Djuff contacted fellow direc- grills and canvas tops and running Under the terms of the prospectus, tors of the Glacier Park Foundation, boards, were built by the White more than half of the historic fleet as well as Bruce Austin, an expert in Motor Company between 1936 and was likely to be retired. The prospec- historic buses who took part in the 1939. For some sixty summers (with tus stated as follows (at pp. 21, 24 1999 inspection. a brief hiatus during World War (emphasis added)): Two) the sturdy buses chugged over The Foundation’s Board of Directors “At the current use level … the Red Glacier’s mountain roads with their sent a letter to the Park Service. The Bus fleet will begin to fail at some “gearjammer” drivers at the wheel. letter (which also was sent to mem- point during the term of the draft bers of Congress and to the media) In 1999, the buses had to be taken contract. … The Concessioner will stated in part: off the road because their chassis rehabilitate a minimum of 15 buses were wearing out. The National over the first twelve years of the Draft “The unanimous view of our Board of Park Service and the concessioner, Contract term. The Concessioner will Directors (and, we think, of virtually Glacier Park, Inc. (GPI), proposed replace the remaining 18 non-rehabil- all of our members and of the general retiring the fleet and building new itated Red Buses with alternative fuel public) is that this action is unaccept- buses. Public opinion, however, very vehicles … able, barring the most compelling strongly favored finding a way to reasons. The red bus fleet is a unique “The concessioner will undertake and renovate the historic fleet. (See “Are historic resource, probably the oldest complete the rehabilitation/replace- They History?” in the Fall 1999 Inside operational fleet in the world. Re- ment of the Red Bus fleet as follows: Trail, online at www.glacierparkfoun- placing half the buses when all could dation.org.) “Rehabilitate a minimum of 15 Red be renovated at almost the same cost is Buses over the first twelve years of the inappropriate on its face. The Glacier Park Foundation rallied Draft Contract term costing not less support for the buses and helped or- “We’re astonished that this decision than $4,110,000, per the following ganize a systematic inspection which was made with no input whatsoever schedule: showed that they could be preserved. from the public. The Park Service • A minimum of five by the end of (See “A Look Beneath the Hood” in properly establishes public comment 2020 the Fall 1999 issue.) The Ford Motor periods for all sorts of minor infra- • A minimum of six more by the Company then generously invested structure-related and environmental end of 2023 $6.5 million in renovating the fleet. decisions. But here, on a major deci- • The remainder (if any) by the end The historic bodies were remounted sion affecting a priceless historic and of 2025 on new chassis, with new power cultural resource, the public was not trains, braking systems, and other “Replace the remaining 18 Red Buses consulted at all!” equipment. with alternative fuel vehicles, costing “We ask that the Park Service not less than $4,025,000, per the fol- The buses returned to service in 2002, promptly release all data supporting lowing schedule: with the expectation that they would its decision, and that public meetings • A minimum of two in 2025 operate for decades to come. In De- be held to discuss the issue before the • A minimum of four per year, until cember 2012, however, a new crisis as pending contract is signed. We ask the Concessioner has rehabilitated to the buses’ future suddenly arose. that the Park Service address the fol- or replaced the entire Red Bus lowing points: The National Park Service solicited fleet by the beginning of the 2029 bids for a new long-term concession season.” (Continued on page 17) The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 3 New Glacier Concession Contract Pending By Mac Willemssen (Swiftcurrent those locations, retail stores, trans- percentage). The new concessionaire 1967; Many Glacier 1968-70) portation, public showers at Rising will also be required to provide an Sun and Swiftcurrent, the public annual maintenance fee of 2.35% The National Park Service (“NPS”) laundry at Swiftcurrent and ATM of gross revenues to be used for the is now accepting bid proposals for and vending machines at the various maintenance and improvement of the award of a new concession Con- locations. facilities within the Park. tract to provide lodging, food, retail and other visitor services at Glacier The concessionaire can be authorized The main component of the al- National Park. The new Contract to provide lodging at the Stewart most $33,000,000.00 initial in- will begin January 1, 2014, and con- Motel at Lake McDonald, provide vestment will be payment to GPI tinue until December 31, 2029. The historic hotel tours, implement of $22,000,000.00, which is the current concession contract, held visitor entertainment programs and amount of the Possessory Interest by Glacier Park, Inc. (“GPI”) since children’s educational programs, negotiated between GPI and the 1981, will expire on December 31, provide a “Step-On” guide service NPS for the value of GPI’s holdings 2013. GPI has been operating since and private vehicle shuttle service in Glacier National Park. December 31, 2005, on a series of throughout the Park. The Stewart The lodging operation provides the annual continuations. Motel is a privately-owned motel largest source of revenue for the concessionaire. The Contract will The new Contract will begin January 1, 2014, require the operation of 498 rooms and continue until December 31, 2029. across five locations and room types vary from luxury suites to standard For the years 2008 and 2009, GPI with 30 rooms located on land lodge rooms to rustic cabins. had gross annual concession rev- owned by GPI within the boundary Food and beverage contributes to enue in excess of $16,000,000.00. of Glacier National Park. Historical- the second largest portion of the In 2010, gross revenue exceeded ly, it has been operated as part of the revenue. In addition to the exist- $18,000,000.00. Lake McDonald Lodge, but it is not ing dining rooms and food sales included in the basic bid proposal. The timing of the bid proposal is locations, the NPS is requiring the very tight: Any questions concern- Prospective concessionaires submit- new concessionaire to upgrade and ing the proposed concession contract ting proposals for the concession expand what it refers to as “quick had to be received by the NPS in contract face a significant estimated service” food venues at Many Glacier writing no later than January 15, initial investment. The NPS has cal- Hotel and Two Medicine. 2013; all bids must be received by culated that a successful bidder may The new Contract anticipates a the NPS on or before April 16, expend almost $33,000,000.00 in significant investment to upgrade 2013. up-front costs. In addition, another rooms at each location. Many $1,057,000.00 will be required to The NPS issued a multi-paged Glacier Hotel must have “upscale “cure” what is referred to as “deferred Prospectus describing the bidding level upgrades” to 30 balcony and 30 maintenance” in 2015 and 2016. requirements and business opportu- other lake view rooms with what are The NPS is requiring a minimum of nity for prospective concessionaires referred to as “higher-quality person- one percent (1%) of gross revenues in Glacier National Park. The draft al property and refreshed finishes”. as the franchise fee. The NPS is Contract is a part of the package. The lobby and other public areas prohibiting any creative approach to must also be upgraded. The re- Required visitor services under the the franchise fee, stating that it must maining rooms at Many Glacier will new Contract include lodging at be in terms of an absolute percent receive new “mid-scale level personal the various hotels and motels in the on all revenues (instead of perhaps a property and refreshed finishes”. Park, food and beverage service at graduated or progressive/regressive (Continued on page 18)

4 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail THE BEAR ATTACKS OF 1967 Remembering Michele Koons and Julie Helgeson

By Chris Nunnally (West Glacier to go to Glacier to visit the sites and pay In the most heartbreaking of the two Merchantile, 2012) my own respects. And judging by the attacks, Julie spent more than two hours emails I received from online readers, I lying alone in the dark, severely injured th On August 13 , 1967 two young wom- wasn’t the only one who felt that way. and wondering if the bear was going en were killed by grizzly bears in Glacier to come back for her. Standing outside On Sunday August 12th, I arrived at National Park on the same night, spark- the chalet 45 years later, I envision that , the highest drive-to point ing a tidal wave of controversy and bear- place on a moonless night and I can only in Glacier National Park, on a clear and fueled paranoia (what some biologists imagine the terror she must have felt. call “bearanoia”) that lingers to this day. crisp sunny morning and started along Julie Helgeson and Michele Koons were the Highline Trail, a seven and a half mile Stepping inside the front door of the both 19 years old, beautiful, kind, and trek to Granite Park Chalet where Julie chalet, I’m struck by the fact that this is with the whole world waiting in front Helgeson lost her life. It was my first where Julie actually lost her life. When of them. I never knew Julie and Michele time in Glacier and I was stunned by the she was finally found and brought back, and never could have, yet I’ve long felt spectacular beauty of the scenery and the Julie was laid out on a dining table and some kind of strange connection to wide diversity of wildlife that could be examined by a surgeon who had hiked them, as if I actually did know them. seen foraging unafraid right alongside the into Granite Park the evening before. trail. As I walked, I thought about the He declared the situation grave. Too I’ve been studying bears independently enormity of what this trip would mean much time had passed and too much for years, writing about them online and to me and reflected back on the events of blood had been lost. Her veins were col- in articles, devoted to educating people that long ago night. lapsing and her lungs punctured from about their true nature, that they’re not where the bear had apparently picked Julie and her partner Roy Ducat were the slavering monsters of horror stories. her up in its mouth and carried her. That writing gave me the opportunity sleeping under the stars in a makeshift to work with captive grizzlies in Alaska, campground when the attack occurred Shortly after 4 A.M., she drew her last allowing me to work up close with these shortly after midnight on August 13th. breath and died. Sitting outside the cha- giants and share my insights with others, Roy was injured and Julie was dragged let 45 years later, I’m overwhelmed with while broadening my own education screaming into the night. Bleeding, Roy a sudden deep sense of peace. I lay a in the process. And throughout it all, ran back to the chalet for help. Acting small white flower upon a rock and say the “night of the grizzlies” has remained on the limited amount of bear knowl- a silent prayer for this girl I never knew with me, Julie and Michele frequently edge that was available at that time, and yet know so well. seasonal ranger Joan Devereaux – who haunting my thoughts; not as statistics “Rest in peace, Julie,” I whisper. in a bear incident but as two real people had led a group of hikers into the chalet with a genuine hold over me. earlier that day – felt that it was too Starting my way down the Loop Trail, I risky venturing into the darkness to find th look back and catch one last glimpse of August 2012 would be the 45 an- the girl. It wasn’t until a helicopter ar- Granite Park Chalet before it disappears niversary of the attacks and, while I’m rived (carrying armed backup) to airlift behind the trees. not sure what I expected to come of it, I Roy to a hospital, that a search party couldn’t shake the feeling that I needed was formed. The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 5 (Continued from previous page) Only a matter of minutes after Julie’s the attack was not predatory, unlike the es I encountered along the trail. Occa- death, another attack occurred nine incident at Trout Lake. sionally I snapped a large stick, sending miles away on the shores of Trout Lake. small animals scattering for cover. When armed rangers went to the lake to Michele Koons was camping with find Michele’s body, the bear confronted Cresting Howe Ridge, I dropped into friends when a bear entered their site. them aggressively and was killed. The thicker forest virtually untouched by This same bear was well-known in the stomach of the severely malnourished the fire and made my way to the shore area. It had been harassing hikers and animal was cut open, revealing a ball of of Trout Lake and the famous logjam. campers, was very malnourished, and blonde hair. It was agreed that the bear Although the campsite is long gone, it behaved almost as if mentally ill. The was starving and may have been driven was very near this spot that Michele lost bear had entered Michele’s campsite to the brink of madness by its hunger. her life. I’m only able to guess where the earlier that night and when it returned, site was actually located, but that feels everyone scattered for the trees. In the aftermath of the attacks, the Park irrelevant compared to just being there. Service established more stringent guide- Everyone, that is, except Michele. I sit on the shore, gazing out over the lines for managing bears, focused on turquoise waters, Heaven’s Peak looming Stuck in her sleeping bag, she couldn’t keeping people and wildlife separated and high above. The few other hikers that I get the zipper down. She only called ensuring bears did not have access to hu- had seen ahead of me have disappeared, out twice. “He’s got the zipper in his man food and garbage. As of this writing, probably moving further up the trail to mouth,” her friends heard her say. Then, there has not been a fatal bear attack in Arrow Lake, and I’m left alone in this after a silence, “He’s got my arm off! Oh Glacier National Park in nearly 15 years! peaceful place. There are no man-made my God, I’m dead!” She never made That, at least, brings some meaning to memorials for Julie and Michele at the another sound. Her death was more the loss of such bright, young lives. locations of their deaths and I don’t mercifully swift than Julie’s, the attack Julie Helgeson’s father described her think there need to be; the beauty of clearly predatory. as a “beautiful, bubbling girl”, all blue the country and the silence that hangs The question that arose from this eyes and brown hair, full of energy and over it like a blanket is the best memo- tragedy, and that is still debated in some life, who loved hiking and the outdoors. rial anyone could have and ensures that circles today, is what caused this to hap- The short two months she spent in their lives will not be forgotten. I pay pen? What caused two separate bears to Glacier Park, the last two months of my respects in a similar fashion here: a kill in two separate attacks on the same her life, were also no doubt two of the flower on a rock, a brief prayer, and a night? The answer is just pure bad luck. best months of her life. Her parents had soft “Rest in peace, Michele.” traveled from Minnesota to The attack on Julie and Roy seemed to Like Granite Park Chalet, I’m sad to to spend two days in the mountains fit the pattern of defensive behavior. The leave Trout Lake but I know I’ll return with her and unknowingly said their bear suspected of being the killer was a here one day. That night I’m sore and last goodbye six days before she died. female with cubs who was also sporting tired from two arduous trips in as many Michele Koons was equally well-loved a deep and painful injury on one foot. days, but the sense of peace it’s left me and highly regarded by everyone she Walking with this wound no doubt kept with is so deep and tangible that I can’t met. Voted “Most Likely to Succeed” at the bear in a decidedly temperamental stop smiling. There is a very strong her high school in San Diego, her death mood. It would seem that Roy and Julie spirit in those places and it’s ready to has left a void in the lives of those who simply found themselves in the wrong touch anyone who goes in search of it. knew her…and has deeply touched the place at the wrong time when this bear lives of many who never did. But I still think of Julie and Michele. approached their sleeping bag, no doubt I wonder what they would think if on her way to feed at the garbage dump Making my way over Howe Ridge to they could see all that has happened in behind the chalet, which was being Trout Lake on Monday August 13th, the wake of that terrible night; how a used to draw bears to nightly “feeding I was hyper alert as the merciless sun species was saved from extinction, how shows” for the guests. Certainly the kids pounded down. Most of the Lake Mc- new management practices have made posed no threat to the ursine family, but Donald side of the ridge was burnt off in Glacier Park a much safer place to camp the unstable sow was likely startled by the 2003 Roberts Fire and offered little and recreate, how their memories live their movements and blindly attacked. cover from the blazing heat. This was on through the lives and efforts of those The fact that no human remains were also prime grizzly and mountain lion who feel the same unearthly connection. found in the stomach and that Julie was habitat. I clapped my hands and called I wonder, if they could see, would they abandoned and left alone indicate that out every few minutes, particularly near feel their deaths were worth it? I don’t the many blind corners and berry patch- know. But I do hope they would at least 6 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail understand that they did not die in vain. IN THE LAKE! Famous Dunkings and Other Tales of the Many Glacier Boat Dock

Employees incessantly were tossed in the water to celebrate their birthdays or accomplishments, to punish transgressions, or simply out of youthful high spirits.

Photo by Paul Meierding (Many Glacier, 1970-1976)

By John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970- log to the dock and wired it to the ungainly technique could cause 80) bottom of one of the rowboats on canoes to swamp. One summer, a the night before the race. team of rangers imprudently put their Near the back doors of Many Glacier heaviest man in the bow, and when Hotel, the motor launch Chief Two Next morning, Ray and the boast- he dug his hands into the water the Guns docks between its frequent trips ful employee took their seats in the craft went down like a submarine. across . The vener- boats, the gun sounded, and Ray sped able dock, with its little ticket house, off across the lake, taking alternate The liveliest memories of the dock is prominent in Many Glacier lore. strokes on the oars with his hand. for Many Glacier employees, how- The boastful employee took terriffic ever, mostly involve the ceremonial Here old Ray Kinley, who worked at strokes, but his boat sat dead in the dunkings which frequently took Many from 1922 to 1977, engaged water. Ray used to say, when tell- place there. Employees incessantly in a famous rowboat race. One sum- ing this story: “Paul Bunyan couldn’t were tossed in the water to celebrate mer, a young employee bragged that have rowed that boat! And that was their birthdays, to celebrate accom- he had been a sculling champion at the end of the fellow’s bragging.” plishments, to punish transgres- a prominent Eastern school. Ray sions, or simply out of youthful high promptly challenged him to a race. The dock was the site of other races spirits. Occasionally edicts would during the Many Glacier Olympics The braggart had no fear of losing to be issued against the practice, but it celebrated in various years. A fre- Ray, because Ray had lost one hand always would be revived the follow- quent event was the “Can-U Paddle,” in an accident. However, he failed to ing season. in which teams of four competed anticipate Ray’s ingenuity and guile. in paddling canoes around the boat In 1972, the dining room crew Ray and his friends combed the lake- dock using only their bare hands. decided to throw a very large waiter, shore and found an enormous, stone- The weight of the paddlers and the Fred DiGiovanni, into the lake on heavy sunken log. They dragged the The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 7 (Continued from previous page) his birthday. Fred was unwilling, As I sank into the blue-green depths, pet walked in, the colonel cordially but offered only passive resistance to I heard a THWHOOSH! close greeted him and asked if he’d like the plan. He was carried down to overhead. A tremendous shock wave a birthday dip in the lake. To the the dock horizontally by a half dozen went through the water, as if a depth amazement of the employees, Mr. husky waiters, groaning and stagger- charge had gone off. I knew that Tippet gave his consent. ing under the load. The rest of the Chip had been pushed in behind The colonel had masterfully planned dining room staff (which had just me, for no one else could produce the event in a way that preserved finished serving lunch) came along such a splash. (One bellman later managerial authority and decorum. in their uniforms -- starched white confided to me, “As we were drag- The staff escorted Mr. Tippet onto waiter jackets and black bow ties, ging you out on the dock, a little the portico, where a brass band salut- and candy-striped waitress dresses. voice in my ear said, ‘Chip, too!’”) ed him (a British citizen) by playing In those days, the boat dock includ- Later that summer came the most “God Save the Queen.” A jammer ed a gangway fixed to the bottom of memorable of the boat dock episodes. bus, festooned with decorations, was the lake, and a free-floating section Ian Tippet, the illustrious manager of waiting to carry him to the dock. in deeper water. The parade of wait- Many Glacier, was tossed into the lake The employees paraded alongside. ers and waitresses went out onto this on his birthday. This was an auda- At the dock, Mr. Tippet removed section and carried Fred to the edge cious business, which no one would his wallet, coat, tie, and glasses, and of the dock. Then the section sud- have dreamed of undertaking, had it then manfully proceeded down the denly tilted beneath their weight like not been for Colonel Booth. gangway. The bellmen took his a dump truck, and the whole crowd Colonel Booth and his wife ran the hands and feet and ceremoniously went sliding into the water with a Many Glacier gift shop that sum- tossed him in. Then they jumped in, wild yell of surprise! mer of 1976. He was an impressive too (lederhosen and all) like a line In 1976, I was tossed into the lake to figure, a former Air Force officer, tall of paratroopers. Everybody then celebrate receiving my law degree. I and authoritative, always dressed in donned dry clothes, and birthday had skipped commencement to work a coat and tie. He took it into his cake was served in the lobby. at Many, and so the diploma came in head that Mr. Tippet should go in Mr. Tippet’s good nature in taking the mail. My roommate Chip Smith the lake on his birthday, just like the birthday dip was characteristic (a 300 lb. lineman for the University everybody else. of almost everyone involved in such of Nebraska) saw the package. Chip At the colonel’s direction, the entire events. The celebratory dunkings promptly instigated a gang of our hotel staff gathered in the lobby at 3 reflected the camaraderie and the fellow bellmen to tackle me, drag me PM on July 27. The air was electric youthful high spirits which prevailed to the dock, and toss me in. with apprehension. When Mr. Tip- at the hotel.

Gearjammers compel their transport agent to ‘walk the plank’ on the Many Glacier boat dock in the late 1970s.

8 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail Occasionally edicts would be issued against the practice, only to be revived the following season.

(Photos courtesy of Paul Meierding)

The celebratory dunkings reflected the camaraderie and the youthful high spirits which prevailed at the hotel.

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 9 One Trail, Two Hikes

Leroy Lott and Carol (That Blond) partake of the treasures of Glacier’s backcountry trails in 1950.

By Leroy Lott (Gearjammer 1949-50) Our summer day started out with a Carol and I had met at Lake Mc- town) to meet and share time typical Glacier Park azure blue sky. Donald Lodge after the middle with members of my family. of the 1949 season. Some of the Carol, a Lake McDonald waitress, Let’s return to our 1950 hike. We gearjammers had girlfriends at most and I were passengers on one of the took pictures at Deadwood Falls hotels (“a girl in every port”). But red buses travelling over Logan Pass with an Argus C-3 camera. We wore once I had met and dated this attrac- and on down Going-to-the-Sun jackets to offset the cool early morn- tive, statuesque blond at McDee, I Highway to the Gunsight Pass trail. ing Glacier temperature. Our first sought trips over Logan to the west The trailhead is near the west end of picture was of Carol with a scarf cov- side at every opportunity. (Some Lake St. Mary. ering her blond hair holding open drivers were favorites of the Trans- our Trail Guide with wild strawber- Our 21-mile hike took us across portation Agents and were the first ries we had picked. Reynolds Creek to Deadwood Falls to get their requested destination. and along the St. Mary River. We Unfortunately, I was not one of Carol also took a photo of me in my enjoyed panoramic views from them, but neither was I crosswise 1943 State Finalist football jacket. Gunsight Pass (6946’), including with the agents so I did get to Lake The next picture was of Carol facing two silvered mirrors, Gunsight Lake McDonald my fair share of time and the camera with Deadwood Falls cas- and Lake Ellen Wilson. Then we was I grateful!) cading into a pool of smooth carved went on to Sperry Chalets and Lake arcs in the colorful red and green This courtship was the idyllic “boy McDonald. argillite. meets girl” in a magic setting for the Every step we took revealed more of remainder of 1949. Before head- The camera we used produced un- God’s magnificent glacial sculptur- ing home to our respective states of usually brilliant Kodachrome color ing. Had I been picked up at the Minnesota and Texas, we agreed the slides. These slides remain virtually University of Texas campus and seriousness of our romance dictated the same as on the day that they were placed where we stopped for our first we return to Glacier the summer of processed by Kodak. (The Gearjam- photo, I wouldn’t have believed such 1950. I would have my BBA and mer website for the 2002 Reunion incomparable beauty existed. Wild she would become a senior after our Celebration of the Return of the Reds and rugged grandeur was everywhere second summer together. contained these and most of my we looked. Fortunately, I had driven 1949 and 1950 Glacier slides.) the red buses the year before (1949) During Easter week of my senior and had fallen in love with every- year Carol flew to Austin for our As we ascended to higher elevations, thing beautiful about Glacier. special time on the campus of the we removed our jackets and Carol, University of Texas, and then on wearing her yellow bathing suit top, over to Lufkin (my birthplace and her shirt to absorb the tanning 10 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail sun. (Continued from previous page)

Periodically we would turn around and good bye at the international bound- mount importance to me that Carol not compare the vistas behind with those ary, we proceeded to Banff where we have a binding tie that would interfere unparalleled views ahead. We reached a spent bathing suit time in the sun at with her social life her senior year. In spectacular spot to view Gunsight Lake their swimming pool with an expansive any event, my assets consisted of about from high above just in time to encoun- view of their famous golf course. Our $300. Most or all of this would be ter one of the brief afternoon mountain next stop was the incomparable Chateau spent for transportation to San Angelo thunderstorms. To avoid being struck Lake Louise where many idyllic honey- and room rent. by lightning and getting soaked, we moons are enjoyed. Within 30 or so days after starting my found a projecting ledge beside the Driving up the Columbian Ice Fields management training job in San Angelo, trail under which we sought . It Parkway, we arrived at the gigantic I got a devastating “Dear John” letter. was enjoyable and memorable to see Athabasca Glacier. There all of us the lightning strikes and experience the FAST FORWARD to early retirement encountered our first snowmobile, in awesome thunder echoing throughout in 1982, fifty-two years later. My wife which we traversed numerous crevasses the valley. Billie and I had just purchased a 32’ on the centuries-old ice. The large Holiday Rambler Alumalite RV. After a This storm and our “tourist-like” enjoy- vehicle was equipped with snow skis “shakedown cruise” to Waco, we left our ment of God’s magnificent creation, on the front and tracks on the rear that hometown of Denton, Texas for Glacier including mountain goats, delayed our were perfect for traction on the slick, Park. arrival at Sperry Chalets. We still had uneven, surface. 6.4 downhill miles to hike before reach- Within a few days of our arrival, we We proceeded on north on the Parkway ing Lake McDonald Lodge, and the sun relocated to Johnson’s Campground to view numerous glaciers and gorgeous was about to set. The last four to five at St. Mary. It overlooks magnificent Canadian mountains, one named after miles of this descent is heavily timbered Lake St. Mary with a backdrop of Little our President Eisenhower. We reached and would be pitch black. We knew it Chief, Red Eagle, Matotopah and my our destination at Jasper National Park. was impossible to reach Lake McDonald favorite of all mountains, Citadel. Bil- The Columbian Ice Fields Parkway Lodge until long after dark, so we bor- lie, being an excellent artist, captured rivals our Going-to-the-Sun Road in rowed a flashlight at Sperry. this view in water colors. We spent the mind-blowing mountain scenery, but better part of 10 weeks playing Scrabble We discovered just how ink black it without Glacier’s valleys. and discovering areas of Glacier we had can be at night under the heavy forest Our journey reversed directions to Min- not viewed with our daughter and three canopy. We heard sounds and lots of neapolis, Minnesota, home of Carol’s fa- sons on an earlier trip. them. Most were of “other animals” ther and mother. There I was treated as roaming in the same darkness in search Every late afternoon our entertain- if I were already a member of the family. of food (or foolish hikers). If we let ment was devoted to new RV arrivals in them, our imaginations would conjure I had a job, which was most difficult Johnson’s large campground. The most up all kinds of scary scenarios. to get in 1950, waiting for me in San interesting part was when the husband Angelo, Texas. A monumental deci- and wife would coordinate their efforts After long, long hiking through the sion confronted me. Obviously, I didn’t at positioning their trailer or motor dark, we welcomed the sound of an want us to be separated for nine months home. Perhaps ‘coordinating’ didn’t occasional vehicle traversing the Mc- while Carol finished her senior school reflect the real world of the tone of their Donald Valley section of the Sun Road. year. To avoid the separation, I inter- voices, words and gestures. We had It seemed like an hour later when the viewed with the Minneapolis/St. Paul to stay inside our RV or our laughter parked red buses (including my number IBM office for a sales position. Unfor- would have exacerbated their diatribes. 105) came into view. What a welcome tunately there were no openings. sight for two tired and weary but happy On one occasion, a wrecker pulled an hikers. While together in downtown Minne- RV trailer into our campground and apolis, we stopped to view engagement parked it. The vehicle obviously had Nearing the end of our second summer, rings in a jewelry store window. As encountered mechanical difficulties. wanting to prolong our romance, we tempting as this was, I couldn’t saddle We noted the Ohio license plate. joined Ed and Barb in Ed’s car on a Ca- Carol with an engagement with her se- nadian expedition. After telling Johnny In 1946, I had served in the Navy nior year about to start. It was of para- Connaroe and other Lake McDee hikers Bureau of Supplies and Accounts in

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 11 (Continued from previous page) downtown Cleveland. There were no bandana for her face and head. She was grandchildren) on June 20, 2012. I met Navy quarters in Cleveland, so I was liv- totally exhausted when we reached the Billie in our Sunday school singles class ing on per diem in a bedroom I rented compound cirque where Sperry Chalets at the Austin Avenue Methodist Church in a private home. Then Moms and is located. in Waco. She was an accomplished Pops Greenwood, a couple whom I met pianist and excellent oil painting artist Our plan was to spend two nights at the in church, generously offered me a free when we married, and became an out- Chalets and take the short trip to Sperry room, free delicious home cooking, and standing water color artist later on. transportation to my Navy job. Glacier the first morning. Glacier plans have a way of being altered. I climbed Billie also proved to be a great mother. I The forlorn couple in Johnson’s camp- the ladder to the glacier the next morn- once had occasion to send my marriage ground gave me the opportunity to “pay ing and Billie rested on the antique evaluations to a friend. She replied that forward” the Greenwoods’ hospitality. spring bed. It was questionable whether any wife would be thrilled to have such They were stranded for at least three she would be ready to tackle the north- praise written about her by her husband. days, awaiting repairs to their vehicle. ern portion of our hike the following After 10 years with IBM, I became a We told them how wonderfully I had morning to meet with our driver and car. been treated by an Ohio couple and of- consultant with Bank Building Corpo- fered them transportation and jammer- Fortunately, Billie drew on her reserves ration of America. There were two of guide service for a thorough tour of Gla- and we started our brief climb to us covering Texas and Oklahoma. Both cier. After the stranded couple returned Lincoln Pass before descending to Lake of us were pilots, so we used planes to to their home, we received one of the Ellen Wilson. The weather was fine cover this vast territory. Our home was most gracious expressions of apprecia- for this segment, but as we climbed to by the local airport. Gunsight Pass it turned cold, then even tion that could be put into words. When I arrived home from a business colder with blowing snow. By the time flight, I would do a change of throttle Later that summer, we took the Gun- we reached the shelter at the pass the setting to let the family know it was sight Trail. Having traversed it in 1950 snow, mixed with rain and sleet, was be- me. They would drive two cars to the from north to south, I concluded that ing blown parallel with the ground. Billie and I should reverse the route and end of the airstrip where the windsock depart from Lake McDonald Lodge. There were several hikers that shared this told them I should touch down. They We got the manager of the Johnson small stone with us and a moun- would then park the cars to the side Campground to drive us over the pass tain goat envied the fact that we arrived of the strip with lights crossing at the to the Lodge early on the morning of before he did. Finally the weather point where I should land. There were August 12, 1982, Billie’s birthday! This improved to just rain. This we could no landing lights for the runway, so all I date gained more significance when tolerate, and as we became warm, then had was the light on the nose gear when she later told the story of this infamous hot, we welcomed an afternoon drizzle. I made these landings as late as 11:00 at night. This system enabled me to be hike. Family, friends and all others Progress slowed down considerably, but nd back with the family almost every night. were told I tried to kill her on her 52 we were driven by the fact we had set a birthday. Fortunately, for me, we didn’t time to be picked up on Going-To-The- Was tackling the Gunsight Trail in the carry a camera. Sun Road. We were late arriving but we opposite direction meant to serve a The arduous ascent is 3432 feet to were elated to get in our car and head to purpose? The entire family has seen Sperry Chalets. The trail starts up from our RV for R & R (Rest and Recovery). pictures of the 1950 hike plus others of Carol. All of the children refer to her as the get-go. It was cool early in the day Billie and I celebrated 59 mostly fantas- THAT BLOND! in the shade of the heavily-timbered tic years (with 4 children, 2 daughters- switchbacks -- red cedars, hemlocks, in-law, 5 grandchildren and 5 great larches, and further on Douglas-firs, spruces and lodgepole pines. However, when we climbed above the timber line it had warmed up considerably. The entire family has seen pictures of the 1950 hike plus others of Carol. All of the The trek was strenuous, exceedingly so for Billie. Every trickle of water we en- children refer to her as THAT BLOND! countered oozing from the sedimentary rocks was a time for refueling her red

12 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail GLACIER MEMORIALS. . .commemorate a special life By Jane Ratzlaff (Executive Director buckets and planting materials and to the birds and even smiled when a of Outreach and Philanthropy for the drive to the planting site where I chipmunk raced up a tree. I thought Glacier National Park Conservancy) am greeted by the family. We dig, to myself that bringing a chair wasn’t we cry, we celebrate, we take lots of such a bad idea because it could A call comes in on a weekend to my pictures, we reflect on his life and make many of our young hikers, voicemail. My father, my mother, we know that he is now watching who sometimes fail to even see the my child has passed away and we over us. We picture him flying to his sites, slow down to see what is hap- want to learn more about your favorite peaks and finding peace in pening. We made it and it is hard to memorial programs. I return the call the place that he found so special. I describe the emotion at the bridge to find trembling voices and forced don’t know how he came to be there, on this day. It will never be just an- back tears. I listen to the story; fight I only know how much he enjoyed other bridge to cross but a place that back my own tears and work to find Glacier and the special memories brings me back to a wedding pro- something that will commemorate that he gave to his family. The bond posal and a father. Someone I never this special life. knew but will hug when I reach heaven. Later, that same woman I listen to the story; fight back my own who shared so much of herself with tears and work to find something that will me that day joined her husband in commemorate this special life. that spot. Her son read the most beautiful poem as he planted a tree Our memorial trees, trails and that was created with his family that for his Mother to join her husband. benches seem to be favorites, al- day will last forever. To this day, I The words still run through my head though occasionally someone wants drive by the entrance station and say as I hike that first section of the trail. to create a memorial endowment. hi to Ryan. Today we have a memorial endow- So I explain the programs and we ment for this special couple. Another day I drive to Cabin 6 establish that gifts will come in from where I am greeted by a different I now have many trails and spots family and friends and then we will family. As we drive to the plant- like this one in memory of infants, decide where the funding goes; but ing site, I listen to stories about the brothers, mothers and fathers. that is just the beginning of my sto- husband and father and the memo- When I look at the beauty of these ry. Since we cannot put up signs, we ries of Glacier that were made over trails, watch for animals and marvel have created a way to take the family the years. Today we are going up at the flowers, I see far more than to the spot and take pictures, sit and the Loop Trail to the bridge with an anyone else sees on these trails. I see reflect on the life of their loved one extra piece of equipment -- a folding a shadow of protection, of love and and later create a certificate for the chair. We assure Mom that with this of joy. I imagine these folks making family. The deep meaning of these chair, we can make it to the bridge it to the peaks I long to climb, the trips has captured my heart and I together. It was the best trip I have valleys I haven’t seen yet and join- selfishly take each trip myself. One ever taken to the Loop Trail bridge. ing the eagles in flight way above day it will be me joining these guard- That day I noticed how stunning the trees. When I sit on a bench, I ians of Glacier. Heaven’s Peak looked, stared at the smile and feel like I am sitting with This particular day it is a memorial starkness of the burnt trees, listened a friend. tree grove for a young man. I get up early and go to the native plant Since we cannot put up signs, we have created nursery.This nursery is amazing and a treat for any visitor! Plants and a way to take the family to the spot and take trees are grown here that are native pictures, sit and reflect on the life of their loved to the different areas of the park. I one and later create a certificate for the family. carefully gather the trees, shovels,

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 13 REAL ESTATE FOR SALE – The Buying and Selling of Glacier Park By Tessie Bundick (Many Glacier . . . Yellow Wolf, Little Bear Chief and Congress, the boundary lines were never left. . . ) many more. to be surveyed by two engineers, one selected by the Secretary of the Inte- An agreement was entered into on The land in question was said, by rior and one by the Blackfeet. September 26, 1895, with the people the government, to be of no use to of the Blackfoot nation in Montana this Indian nation, as there could The U.S. commission reached the and the United States government. be no agricultural activities where Montana reservation on August 30, This treaty concerned land that now there were jagged peaks and the 1895 and called for a council of constitutes the eastern half of what raising of herds impossible. In fact, Blackfeet on Monday, September 2. is now Glacier National Park, then most of the Blackfoot reservation Several meetings took place after this owned by the Blackfeet. (which bordered this region) was initial one as negotiations ensued. The commission was careful to make certain that the natives understood The government wished to purchase this vast everything that was said and em- mountainous area (about 800,000 acres) for ployed interpreters for both sides. several reasons, the most prominent one being As the talks went on, Little Dog the exploitation of the perceived mineral and rightly pointed out that the Indians did not ask the government to buy oil wealth thought to be within these borders. their land, so they were all very inter- ested in what the officials had to pro- The government wished to purchase also deemed bad for planting. The pose. It was Little Dog who named this vast mountainous area (about natives had been advised to raise the asking price of $3,000,000. 800,000 acres) for several reasons, the most prominent one being the exploitation of the perceived mineral Prospectors and miners poured into the ceded and oil wealth thought to be within strip. Much strenuous effort was made because the these borders. Indeed, as soon as a working conditions were harsh in this unforgiving deal was reached, miners and pros- pectors flooded the wilderness. wild land. Gold, silver, copper and oil were much sought after and a small amount was found. But The negotiations were headed on the one side by George Bird Grinnell, after 1902, all claims had been abandoned. William C. Pollock and Walter M. Clements, appointed by the Secre- horned animals for their daily living. Grinnell stated that the government tary of the Interior. Grinnell had offer of $1,000,000 should be ac- The government was willing to allow been a good friend to the Indians. cepted, “Otherwise”, he said, “if you the Indians their hunting, fishing In the past, he had tried to protect stick to your propositions, we will and timber rights even after the ced- their rights and help them improve have to return to the East and you ed strip was handed over. If roads, their conditions. He was also a very will have gained nothing.” railroads, telegraph and telephone early promoter of the wonders of this lines were to be required through any The government wanted the moun- most beautiful part of the United part of the property, however, the tains and forests to exploit them States. The Blackfeet especially buying party retained the rights to for monetary gain. The Blackfeet asked for his participation. build them, after compensating the looked at the subject differently. The other side consisted of respected original owners for the right of way. They had been placed upon the men of the Blackfoot tribe, includ- reservation that bordered this desired As soon as the treaty was agreed ing Little Dog, White Calf, Little region. They had been pushed into upon, and received the approval of Plume, Three Suns, Tearing Lodge,

14 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail a confined space, where once they be used to sustain their families and worth of this vast real estate purchase were free to roam at will. As Chief educate their children. was not to be found in minerals and White Calf claimed, concerning one gushers. The great value of this fab- Negotiations continued until Sep- of the most prominent peaks to be ulous place was in its serene beauty. tember 26, when an agreement was sold, “Chief Mountain is my head. In 1910, these amazing acres, along reached. The amount of $1,500,000 Now my head is cut off. The moun- with an area west of the continental was offered and the Blackfeet finally tains have been my last refuge. We divide was made into a national park accepted this. have been driven here and now we by Congress, finally recognizing this are settled.” As expected, prospectors and miners vast wonderland for the paradise that poured into the ceded strip. Much we enjoy so much today. The Blackfeet knew about the sup- strenuous effort was made because posed mineral wealth thought to be We have the Blackfoot nation to the working conditions were harsh hidden in this rugged wilderness. thank for so fiercely protecting this in this unforgiving wild land. Gold, They also realized that the miners magical place and keeping it pristine silver, copper and oil were much would overrun the land whether they long after other parts of the nation sought after and a small amount was sold it or not. Their asking price had been severely exploited and found. But after 1902, all claims was $3,000,000. The money would ruined. had been abandoned. The real As Little Dog, so eloquently said during the negotiations, “ Those The real worth of this vast real estate purchase mountains will never disappear. We was not to be found in minerals and gushers. will see them as long as we live, our The great value of this fabulous place was in its children will see them all their lives, and when we are all dead they will serene beauty. still be there.”

Glacier Park Lodge Alumni Centennial Reunion Update Registration Forms to be The Group Code for the alumni To help in your planning, there will E-Mailed Soon! reunion is: 1186QT. Be sure to give be early (5:00 p.m.) and late (7:00 this code number when reserving p.m.) dinner seatings on Wednes- Complete information and registra- your room in order to get the special day and Thursday (July 17 and 18) tion forms will be e-mailed (and group rate. at Glacier Park Lodge in the Moc- some mailed) in mid-March to 642 casin Room. Evening programs are Red Bus Tours are being offered on Glacier Park “alums” for the GPL scheduled to begin at 9:00 p.m. in a first-come, first-served basis for the Employee Centennial Reunion to be the Lobby. held July 16-19, 2013. coming Glacier Park season. If you are interested in a Red Bus Tour dur- For additional information about the A few rooms are still available at Gla- ing the Glacier Park Lodge Employ- GPL Employee Centennial Reunion cier Park Lodge for this event. To ee Centennial Reunion, we suggest contact John Dobbertin, Jr. by e- reserve yours, contact Glacier Park, making your reservations now. mail at: [email protected] Inc. through Amber Green (Sat- urday through Wednesday at 406- For information on Glacier Park Red The planning committee for this 892-6729, or by e-mail at agreen@ Bus Tours, go to glacierparkinc.com. event held its third annual meeting on January 25 in Orlando, Florida. glacierparkinc.com) or through To make your reservations call 406- Committee members attending were Justin (Thursday and Friday at 406- 892-2525 or go to info@glacier- Joe and Carol Blair, Jack Barry, and 892-6722). parkinc.com John and Barbara Dobbertin.

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 15 Youth and Maturity in Glacier by Dan Manka (Many Glacier 1975) footloose, and employed with our fel- young, foolish, and immature. We low college students in Glacier. have to wake up and accept responsibil- I love Glacier National Park. I love ity. Some of us did that while we were . As our theme We were young then. We were in Glacier. For others that maturity song indicates, Many Glacier will invincible. It was us against the came when we had our own children always be a part of me. I love to read mountain, or us against the weather. and knew we had to keep them safe one issue after another of The Inside Quite often we were victorious. We and we had to take care of ourselves so Trail. I will never “get over” working reached the pass, the top of the ridge, that we would “always be there for our at Many Glacier Hotel in 1975 and or the summit. We won, and for now kids.” Some of us came to grips with visiting there numerous times, but the mountain was conquered, and for the fact that we are not invincible while I always come to the same conclu- now that was enough -- that was all our life passed before our eyes when sions for all of us in our elite group of that mattered. We have spent decades we were hanging onto that tree on the former employees. That is why I write reliving those experiences and tell- edge of the mountain or twenty years today, not to take away from anyone’s ing fascinated individuals about our later when we stood at the casket of a pleasure and fond memories of living accomplishments in those never-to-be- friend or a loved one. Alas, some of us and working in Glacier, but to help to forgotten mountains. may have gray hair now and still lack bring us as a group to see our lives in We were foolish. We thought we that sense of reality that someday we proper perspective. could do the impossible. Some of will not be here any longer -- someday Glacier is a fairyland - a dreamland. It us thought we could do remarkable we will no longer be here for our kids is a marvelous and beautiful dream things and never have to suffer for or our grandkids. that we all shared, and some con- it. We burned the candle at both My late mother-in-law traveled to tinue to share through return visits, ends. (Reporting for duty as a cook Zermatt, Switzerland, and stood in reunions, and through this wonderful at 5:30 a.m. came hard after a long awe looking up at the Matterhorn, but magazine. (A big thanks to all who hike the day before.) One story after she was very moved by her visit to the contribute and publish this magazine another in The Inside Trail tells of our little cemetery in that beautiful Swiss for all of us to enjoy!) fellow employees sliding down Mt. village where all the mountain climb- Wilbur in the dark; hanging onto a We, the former employees of Glacier ers are buried. All those graves of all tree on Mount Allen with feet dan- National Park, are a special club of those people who lost their lives trying gling over the abyss below; riding on people who have experienced some- to climb that mountain. It’s a com- the Going-to-the-Sun Road while thing that no one else can really pulsion that pushes people to the edge hanging onto the roof of a car too fully experience. We are the envy and sometimes over the edge. small to hold everyone; or dropping of hundreds of thousands of others in the dark from a ledge on Grinnell I love to visit the Alps and our own who learn of our privilege and experi- Point without knowing how far one beautiful “Matterhorns” in the Swift- ences as former employees of the park would fall. current Valley, but let us enjoy the facilities. But our group from bygone lofty heights and at the same time decades is growing ever smaller. One But all of us someday must come to keep our feet firmly on the solid can go to reunions and get re-ac- grips with the fact that the mountains ground of prudence and responsibility quainted. One can reminisce for days will win in the end -- and the moun- to ourselves, our loved ones, and our at a time, but we can never bring back tains WILL win in the end. Mount God. Let us acknowledge that though those from our ranks who are gone Gould, Mount Wilbur, and the Garden we at times acted with our foolish, forever. Likewise, we can never really Wall all will “outlive” us. We are not youthful zeal, we are now mature bring back those days of being young, invincible. We cannot always remain enough to take on our down-to-earth and also our heavenly necessities for [L]et us enjoy the lofty heights and at the same now and for the future. Let us not time keep our feet firmly on the solid ground of simply frolic in the beauty of the prudence and responsibility to ourselves, our mountains, but let us realize that one day we will stand before the One Who loved ones, and our God. made those mountains.

16 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail Saving the Reds (Continued from page 3) “(1) On what basis do you project Post and many other newspapers. wheelchair-accessible buses, one for that the buses will fail over the next Meanwhile, a network of former each side of the Park. 16 years? Has there been a systematic gearjammers vigorously advocated for The prospectus now states that “to the inspection of structural components the buses. Foundation director Leroy greatest extent possible, the Conces- in the buses? Have the Ford engineers Lott contacted more than 200 fellow sionaire must ensure a fleet of thirty- who renovated the buses in 2000- drivers, using a list from the great three Red Buses.” To ensure this, 2002 been consulted? gearjammer reunion held in 2010. a trust fund will be established for “(2) On what basis do you project the The drivers, supported by other citi- ongoing renovation of the fleet. figures of $4.11 million to rehabili- zens, sent a flood of e-mail to Con- The concessioner will be required to tate 15 buses and of $4.025 million gress, to the Park Service, and to the deposit 2.5% of its net gross revenues to replace the 18 others? Given that press, urging preservation of the fleet. into this fund (called the Red Bus the figures per bus are comparable, Glacier’s Acting Superintendent, Kym Rehabilitation Reserve) every month. why should historic buses be replaced Hall (who had taken office at the first At current revenue levels, these de- rather than refitted? of the year, with the bidding already posits should amount to more than “(3) On what basis did you decide on in progress) responded decisively to $400,000 per year. the 15:18 ratio of renovated buses and the protest. On January 30, the Park At five-year intervals, the concessioner replacements? Again, since the price Service issued a press release stating its must have a third party contractor per bus is comparable, why should so intention “to retain the operation of assess the buses’ condition. It then many new buses be substituted for the entire fleet of red buses.” must submit a rehabilitation plan historic buses? Hall stated: “We love the red buses for the Park Service’s approval. In “(4) Has Ford, which paid the cost of the renovation a decade ago, been The Glacier Park Foundation commends Hall, her consulted as to whether it would sup- staff, and the Park Service for this very prompt and port ongoing renovation of the fleet? positive response to the public’s concerns. “(5) What policies exist to extend the life of the red buses? E.g., are the and our intent has been to retain addition (independently of the trust buses restricted to runs within the this iconic symbol of the park … We fund), it must carry out ordinary park, with other vehicles required for appreciate the advocacy for the red maintenance and repair of the red runs to Whitefish, Kalispell and other buses by the Glacier Park Foundation buses from its own funds. destinations outside Glacier? and others, and their dedication to The Glacier Park Foundation com- preserving the fleet of 33 iconic and “(6) What does the Park Service plan mends Hall, her staff, and the Park historic buses.” to do with 18 retired historic buses? Service for this very prompt and Why would anyone pay to restore Hall and her staff then met with positive response to the public’s them in the future, when all the new staff for the Montana Congressional concerns. The proposed new conces- buses would make them superfluous? delegation (Senators Max Baucus and sion contract incorporates strong and Will they be warehoused? Will they John Tester, and Rep. Steve Daines), detailed terms for the preservation of be sold? all of whom supported preservation the historic fleet. of the fleet. After several weeks of “(7) Have you studied the potential The Glacier National Park Conser- work, the Park Service released a effect of removing most of the his- vancy (formerly the Glacier National revised prospectus on February 25. toric buses from service on Montana Park Fund) has established an en- tourism? The revised prospectus changed the dowment to assist in renovating the plan for bus transportation in Gla- historic buses. Questions concerning Montana newspapers ran front-page cier. The concept of adding 18 new this endowment can be addressed articles about the red bus crisis. The buses was abandoned. Instead, the to Jane Ratzlaff at jane@gnpconser- story was picked up by the Associated concessioner must add just two new vancy.org. Press, and soon ran in The Washington The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 17 New Glacier Concession Contract (Continued from page 4) At Lake McDonald Lodge the con- for the replacement of the remain- rehabilitation projects which will in- cessionaire must complete “upscale ing eighteen Red Buses. The NPS crease the amount of the LSI during level upgrades” to twelve large cabin has changed its bid specifications the term of the new Contract. Only rooms and fifteen lodge rooms. In and now requires the new conces- LSI-eligible fixture replacements addition, public spaces must be re- sionaire to attempt to maintain the may be added and those will also be freshed or upgraded. The remaining entire fleet of thirty-three Red Buses. depreciated on the forty-year sched- rooms at Lake McDonald Lodge will In addition, the NPS now requires ule. Excepting any new fixtures, this means the $22,000,000.00 paid by The Prospectus and draft Contract also address the new concessionaire to GPI for the purchase of GPI’s possessory inter- the issue of the historic Red Buses. est will be reduced to approximately $13,200,000.00 at the end of the receive new “mid-scale level personal a Red Bus Rehabilitation Reserve sixteen-year Contract period. This property and refreshed finishes”. which will be funded by using 2.5 will avoid the need (such as was done percent of the new concessionaire’s with the current concession contract) The Village Inn at Apgar must have annual gross receipts.In addition to for the NPS and the concessionaire to all thirty-six rooms receiving new the required up-grades and main- negotiate the amount of the conces- “basic-level personal property and tenance of the lodging facilities, sionaire’s possessory interest. refreshed finishes.” the NPS (if it can obtain funding) All proposals submitted in response At Rising Sun Motor Inn and may continue the rehabilitation and to the request for bids may be Cabins, all seventy-two rooms will stabilization of Many Glacier Hotel. disclosed by the NPS as authorized receive new “basic-level personal The prospective concessionaires must by the Freedom of Information property and refreshed finishes”. be aware of the fact the NPS may, Act. All proposals will be evaluated during the term of the new Con- At Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and on principal selection factors and tract, continue the massive reha- Cabins, sixty-two rooms will receive secondary selection factors. Interest- bilitation project for the lobby and new “basic-level personal property ingly, consideration of revenue to south half of the Hotel. This would and refreshed finishes” and thirty- the NPS in this determination and be a project similar to what has been two cabins will receive new “rustic- scoring is subordinate to the objec- completed for the dining room and level personal property and refreshed tives of protecting, conserving and the northern portion of the main finishes”. preserving Glacier National Park and building. Accordingly, there could providing necessary and appropri- Interestingly, the NPS refrained from be a time when close to one-half of ate visitor services to the public at defining what these quoted descrip- Many Glacier Hotel’s 214 rooms reasonable rates. tions actually mean. It will be up might be affected by this project. to the prospective bidders to give a There are five principal selection The new concessionaire will receive a narrative concerning what they will factors: (1) the responsiveness of Leasehold Surrender Interest (“LSI”) do to meet the NPS’ requirements. the proposal to the objectives of for its possessory interest in the facili- protecting, conserving and preserv- The Prospectus and draft Contract ties property which is the subject of ing Glacier National Park; (2) the also address the issue of the historic the Contract. The LSI will depreci- responsiveness of the proposal to the Red Buses. As discussed elsewhere ate on a straight-line basis on a forty- objectives of providing necessary and in this issue, the NPS originally year schedule, so that during the appropriate visitor services at reason- required the maintenance and reha- sixteen-year term of the Contract, able rates; (3) the experience and bilitation of a minimum of fifteen the concessionaire’s initial LSI will be related background of the bidder; (4) of the Red Buses. Controversially, reduced by approximately 40%. the financial capability of the bidder the NPS also proposed allowing the The NPS does not intend to approve to carry out its proposal; and (5) the new concessionaire to provide a plan construction projects or any major amount of the proposed minimum franchise fee. 18 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail Principal selection factors 1-4 are The NPS will select the best narra- Among all the details of the draft scored on a zero to five point basis; tive explanation of how the bidder Contract are a couple of somewhat principal selection factor 5 is scored will best achieve the purposes set humorous provisions. As might be on a zero to four point basis. forth in the selection factors. In expected with a Federal contract, addition to the NPS’ determination the concessionaire must be non- Secondary selection factors are: (1) of the best responsive bid, the new discriminatory and exhibit complete the quality of the bidder’s proposal concession contract will be submit- impartiality as to rates and services to conduct its operations in a man- ted to Congress for sixty days before for the public. With that said, the ner that furthers the protection, con- it may be officially awarded to the draft Contract specifically provides servation and preservation of Glacier successful concessionaire. that “the concessionaire will pro- National Park through environ- vide Federal employees conducting mental management programs and There are no preferred bidders in this official business reduced rates for activities, including energy conserva- process. With that said, GPI may lodging, essential transportation and tion, waste reduction and recycling; have a distinct advantage because of other specified services….” and (2) the bidder’s plans related to its facilities in East Glacier. The suc- the historic Red Bus fleet. cessful bidder must establish out-of- The other provision is the require- park facilities for laundry, additional ment that the concessionaire must The secondary selection factors are employee housing and the mainte- provide “appropriate employee recre- scored on a zero to three point basis. nance and storage of the Red Buses. ational activities”. While this require- The NPS will select the responsive These factors are already in existence ment explains the rec rooms at the bid with the highest cumulative for GPI. Any other bidders will various locations, what happened to point score as the best proposal. If need to build these facilities at addi- the quaint idea of considering Glacier two or more responsive proposals tie tional cost or negotiate with GPI for National Park itself as the major “rec- with the highest point score, then the use of the existing facilities. reational activity” for the employees? the NPS must break the tie. CENTENNIAL CELEBRATING GLACIER’S HUNDREDTH

Controversially, the NPS proposed allowing the

concessionaire to provide a plan for replacement 1970-1976) Glacier, Meierding (Many Paul Photo by of the remaining eighteen Red Buses by the end of the Contract term.

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ 19 CENTENNIAL CELEBRATING GLACIER’S HUNDREDTH

(Photo courtesy of Bret Bouda)

This unique symbol of tourism in Glacier will be preserved, thanks to citizens’ initiative and a timely change in course by the National Park Service.

JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacier- parkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415. An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulat- ing to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100. The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent per- mitted by law. (Panorama by Christine Baker)

20 ☐ Spring 2013 ☐ The Inside Trail