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Goa & Mumbai 8

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd &

North Goa p121

Panaji & Central Goa p82

Mumbai South Goa (Bombay) p162 p44

Goa

Paul Harding, Kevin Raub, Iain Stewart PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to MUMBAI & Goa & Mumbai ...... 4 (BOMBAY)...... 44 CENTRAL GOA . . . . 82 Goa & Mumbai Map. . . . . 6 Sights...... 47 Panaji...... 84 Goa & Mumbai’s Top 14. . .. 8 Activities...... 55 Around Panaji...... 96 Need to Know...... 16 Courses...... 55 Dona Paula ...... 96 First Time Goa ...... 18 Tours...... 55 Chorao Island...... 98 What’s New...... 20 Sleeping...... 56 Divar Island...... 98 If You Like ...... 21 Eating...... 62 Old Goa ...... 99 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 69 Goa Velha...... 106 Itineraries ...... 27 Entertainment ...... 72 Ponda Region...... 107 Beach Planner...... 31 Shopping...... 73 Region...... 111 Activities...... 34 Information...... 76 Beyond Goa...... 114 Travel with Children. . . . 39 Getting There & Away. . . . 78 ...... 114 Getting Around...... 80 Anegundi...... 120 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 41 TUKARAM.KARVE/SHUTTERSTOCK © TOWERINGGOALS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ATTENDING THE ARTS FESTIVAL P47, MUMBAI PIKOSO.KZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

STALL, ANJUNA FLEA MARKET P140 Contents

UNDERSTAND

NORTH GOA ...... 121 Mandrem...... 155 Goa Today ...... 198 Along the Mandovi. . . . . 123 Arambol (Harmal). . . . . 157 History...... 200 Reis Magos & Inland & The Goan Way of Life. . . 206 Beach ...... 123 Bicholim...... 160 Delicious . . . . . 210 Candolim & Markets & Shopping . . . . 213 Fort Aguada...... 123 SOUTH GOA . . . . . 162 Arts & Architecture. . . . 215 Calangute & Baga . . . . . 129 ...... 163 Anjuna...... 136 Around Margao...... 168 Wildlife & the Environment...... 218 Assagao...... 142 Chandor...... 170 Mapusa ...... 144 Loutolim...... 170 Vagator & Chapora . . . . 145 ...... 171 Siolim...... 151 North of Colva ...... 172 SURVIVAL Morjim...... 151 Betalbatim, Asvem ...... 153 Majorda & Utorda. . . . . 173 GUIDE Cansaulim, Arossim & Velsao. . . . . 174 Scams...... 222 Bogmalo ...... 175 Women & Solo Travellers . . . . . 224 Colva to the . . . 175 Directory A–Z...... 226 ...... 176 Transport...... 232 & . . . . 178 Health...... 237 Cabo da Rama ...... 179 Cola & Khancola...... 180 Language...... 244 Agonda...... 181 Index...... 250 Chaudi...... 183 Map Legend...... 255 Palolem ...... 184 Patnem...... 190 Rajbag ...... 192 Galgibag & Talpona. . . . 192 Polem...... 194 SPECIAL Beyond Goa...... 195 FEATURES Gorkana...... 195 Beach Planner ...... 31 Activities...... 34 Markets & Shopping...... 213 Scams ...... 222 Women & MUMBAI P44 Solo Travellers ...... 224 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 27

Itineraries

Arambol É

•# É É Vagator•# Anjuna •#

•#

Baga

É

É •# É É •# Panaji Old Goa É

A R A B I A N

S E A É

É

Cola Beach •# Agonda •#

Palolem É •# •#Patnem •# Talpona

2 WEEKS Goa’s Greatest Hits

If you have a two-week holiday in Goa you’ll probably spend it at one or two beach loca- tions, but if you want to explore the best of the whole state, consider this path. Start in the capital, Panaji, preferably staying in the Fontainhas area, cruising on the and spending a morning exploring the churches of Old Goa and the region’s spice farms. Next head up to the beaches of North Goa: depending on your taste you could base yourself at busy Baga, backpacker-friendly Anjuna or Vagator, or further north at the mellow -friendly beach strip between Asvem and Arambol. Wherever you stay, most beaches are close enough to easily explore by motorbike or taxi. Spend a week here checking out the party scene (Anjuna, Vagator and Morjim), markets (Saturday night bazaars near Baga, Wednesday market at Anjuna, Friday market at Baga), water sports (surfing at Asvem), yoga (everywhere) or just chilling at beach shacks and backstreet cafes. Next, head to the deep south of Goa, taking the highway all the way to beautiful Palolem. From here you can explore the surrounding beaches of Patnem, Agonda, Cola and Talpona. This is a place for lazing on the beach and staying in Goa’s best beach huts. 28

Querim (Keri) •# •# Arambol beach

É

•# Mandrem É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

er É v Ri Asvem •# a or p a Morjim•# h C

É Chapora •# É A R A B I A N •# •# Assagao Vagator É S E A

•# Anjuna É It

i nerar •# Baga

É É

i es •# Calangute

•# Candolim

É É É r

É Betim ve

É i É •# ovi R f# Mand •#Reis Fort Aguada •# •# Panaji Magos

2 WEEKS Northern Beaches

The northern beaches encompass a little of everything that’s great about Goa – fine beaches, forts, rivers, lively resorts, yoga and nightlife. Start by taking the shortcut across the Mandovi River by vehicle ferry from Panaji to Betim and pay a visit to the refurbished fort at Reis Magos before taking in the views from hilltop Fort Aguada. The beaches of Candolim, Calangute and Baga make up Goa’s busiest resort strip so there’s always plenty to do here, from water sports to night- clubs and beach shacks to fine dining. Don’t miss a visit to the hilltop Museum of Goa and (in season) one of the Saturday night markets in Baga or Arpora. Head north of the Baga River to Anjuna, where the hippie trance days all began. It’s a good place to join a yoga class, party at one of the beachfront clubs or browse the Wednesday flea market. Head inland to the country lanes and Portuguese villas of vil- lagey Assagao, where you’ll find a number of excellent restaurants. If it’s Friday, head into Mapusa for the fabulous local market. Back near the beach, Vagator and Chapora are easy-going coastal villages with a relaxed party vibe: climb Chapora Fort for great sunset views or dine at one of the clifftop restaurants. Vagator’s Hilltop music club is still the place for a Sunday session. Across the is Russian-flavoured Morjim, with a growing number of EDM clubs and fancy resorts. Further north are mellow Asvem and Mandrem, with upmarket hut villages, a lovely clean beach, good yoga retreats and watersports such as standup paddleboarding, kitesurfing and surfing. Then it’s on to Arambol, a popular backpacker and family beach with a Bob Marley vibe, a surf club, paragliding from the northern headland and budget accommodation along the cliffs. Although Arambol is the last proper beach resort in the north, you can continue further to the peaceful Querim (Keri) beach and cross by vehicle ferry over the to Terekhol (Tiracol) Fort, a former Portuguese stronghold that’s now a heritage hotel and restaurant. 29 IMAGESOFINDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es IMAGESOFINDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Church of St Francis of Assisi (p103), Old Goa Bottom: Beach, Calangute (p129)

30 ogmalo É É •#

•# Utorda Aldona Coruem Fort Maorda •# •# •# •# Mayem Lake Shri

Torda É •# É Naroa Mahadeva •# •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Colva •# Margao •# Divar Island Temple •# É enaulim •# •# Old Goa •# Panai É arca •# É A R A B I A N Ponda É S E A •# Cavelossim •# •# •#Loutolim Molem É

Margao •# É Chandor

É É •# Dudhsagar

It •#

É Falls Cabo da •# Cola each Rivona i nerar Rama •# uddhist A R A B I A N É Caves •# S E A •# Agonda É Netravali •# Protected •#

i es Area Palolem Patnem Usgalimal •# Rock Carvings É •# •# Galgibag •# Palolem•# •# •# É Patnem Tanshikar Spice Farm •# aterfalls Polem

2 5 WEEKS Southern Sun DAYS Inland Adventures

South Goa is as much about lazing on the Take a few days to explore inland Goa off beaches as the north, but there are some the beaten track. interesting inland adventures here and From Panaji, start out early to Colem much less of a party vibe. for . On the way back Start in busy Margao, where you can stop at Tambdi Surla for Shri Mahadeva browse the market and grab a bite to eat Temple or visit one of the spice farms at Longhuino’s. The beach at Colva is just around Molem or Ponda. Another excel- 6km west of Margao and stretches up and lent self-drive day trip from Panaji is to down the coast. If you’re into scuba diving, take a picturesque circuit from Old Goa, head north to Bogmalo, via pretty Ma- to serene Divar Island (via a ferry), catch jorda and Utorda beaches, or make your another ferry to Naroa, where you can way south to Benaulim (visit Goa Chitra take in Mayem Lake, Corjuem Fort and museum here) through five-star territory Aldona. Return to Panaji via Torda, visit- at and Cavelossim to the lovely ing the Houses of Goa Museum. spit of land at Mobor where the coast Head south to Margao, from where you meets the Sal River. can explore the villages of Chandor, with Follow the through bucolic one of Goa’s grandest Portuguese man- Betul to lovely Agonda, calling in at Cabo sions, Loutolim and the ancient Rivona da Rama and secluded Cola Beach. The Buddhist caves and prehistoric Usgali- final coastal stretch leads to Goa’s lit- mal rock carvings. tle paradise beach at , great for Palolem Return to Margao and then continue on swimming, yoga, cooking courses and to Palolem or Patnem, from where you beach huts. is a little more peace- Patnem can head inland through forest and farm- ful. Intrepid travellers should hire a bike land to the Netravali Protected Area to and explore further south to Galgibag discover the mysterious bubble lake, the and Talpona, or all the way to Polem Tanshikar Spice Farm and jungle treks beach. to remote waterfalls. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 249

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

and Bagpacker Travels, Pankil Shaw, Jas Charanjiva, WRITERS’ THANKS Khaki Tours, Priyanka Jacob, Roxanne Bamboat, Sanil Paul Harding Kapse, Sudakshina Banerjee, Ashok Tours & Travels, Sakshi Chari, Sheetal Waradkar, Chirag Rupani, Zaid Thanks must go to the many friends I reconnected Purkars and Amrut and Aditya Dhanwatay. with in Goa and the new people I met on this trip. Big thanks to Jack, Ajit and family in Panaji; Ravi in Vagator; John, Jack and Kate in Palolem; and Joanna and Xavi in Patnem. Thanks also to friends in Kochi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS and Alleppey, Philip, Maryann, Johnson, Shibu and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Niaz, and to Joe at Lonely Planet for entrusting BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the me with Goa. Biggest thanks goes to my travelling Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and companions, Hannah and Layla. Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Kevin Raub Cover photograph: Lamp and rangoli (elaborate chalk, rice-paste or coloured-powder design) for the Thanks to Joe Bindloss and all my fellow partners Diwali festival, Puneet Vikram Singh/Getty Images© in crime at Lonely Planet. On the road, Anil Whadwa

Abigail Blasi, Trent Holden Assisting Editors Sarah THIS BOOK and Iain. This guidebook was Bailey, Judith Bamber, Katie This 8th edition of Lonely Plan- produced by the following: Connolly, Melanie Dankel, et’s Goa & Mumbai guidebook Destination Editor Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, was curated by Paul Harding, Joe Bindloss Victoria Harrison, Jodie Martire, Lauren O’Connell, and researched and written by Senior Product Editor Saralinda Turner Paul, Daniel McCrohan, Kevin Kate Chapman Raub and Iain Stewart. The Cover Researcher Senior Cartographer Mumbai chapter was curated Naomi Parker Valentina Kremenchutskaya by Anirban Mahapatra; Joe Thanks to Patric Colquhoun, Product Editor Kate Mathews Bindloss curated parts of the Diana Furtado, Antonio Levy, Survival Guide. The previous Book Designer Ania Bartoszek Amanda Williamson edition was written by Paul, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 250

Index

A B boat cruises 181, 234 sights 125-6 accessible travel 226 Baga 129-36, 130 Bogmalo 175 shopping 129 accommodation 19, 20, accommodation 132-4 Mobor 179 Cansaulim 174-5 226-7, see also individual activities 131 Mumbai 80, 234 car travel 235 locations drinking 135 Panaji 88-9 Carnival 23, 89, 25 costs 57, 227 food 134-5 boat travel 20, 234 carpets 214 hostels 20 nightlife 135 Bogmalo 175 casinos 94 activities 23-6, see also shopping 135-6 Bollywood 75, 217 caste system 209 individual activities sights 129-31 Bombay, see Mumbai cathedrals, see churches & Agonda 181-3, 182 tours 132 books 198 cathedrals air travel 232 Bardez 160-1 animals 219 Cavelossim 178-9 altitude sickness 242 bargaining 19 birdwatching 219 caves amusement parks Basilica de Bom Jesus 9, cooking 212 Elephanta Island 15, Esselworld 74 101-2, 9 health 239 54, 15 Anegundi 120, 116 bathrooms 231 snakes 219 77 animals 218-19 beaches 31-3 bookshops 213 Khandepar 107 Anjuna 136-42, 138 Agonda Beach 181 bouldering 117-18 Rivona Buddhist Caves 169 Anjuna Market 13, 140, Butterfly Beach 184 breakfast 211 , cell phones 16, 230-1 2 13 facilities 20 breweries 20, 70 antiques 214 cemeteries 97, 99 Girgaum Chowpatty 51 Buddhist temples Central Goa 42, 82-120, Arambol 157-60, 158 Beach 51 Global Vipassana Pagoda 83 accommodation 82 architecture 12, 21, 216, Mandrem Beach 155 51 see also forts food 82 Miramar 85 budget 17, 225 colonial 97, 102 highlights 83, Nerul Beach 123 bus travel 225, 232-3, 234 mansions 127 Chandor 170 Ozran Beach 145-7 Mumbai 78 museums 160 Chapora 145-51, 146 Palolem 11, 11 business hours 17, 229 temples 112 accommodation 147-8 Patnem Beach 190-1 area codes 17 courses 147 Querim Beach 161 Arossim 174-5 C drinking 150 Turtle Beach 192-3 Cabo da Rama 179-80 art galleries, see museums food 148-50 Vagator Beach 147 Calangute 129-36, 130, 29 & galleries nightlife 150 Benaulim 176-8, 177 accommodation 132-4 arts 215-17 sights 145-7 Betalbatim 173-4 activities 131 Assagao 142-4 shopping 150 Bicholim 160-1 drinking 135 Asvem 153-5 Chaudi 183 bicycle travel 234 food 134-5 ATMs 229 children, travel with 39-40 birds 219 nightlife 135 autorickshaws 235-6 beaches 31, 32 birdwatching shopping 135-6 ayurveda 35 Mumbai 74 Cabo da Rama 179 sights 129-31 Asvem 154 Chorao Island 98 Gokarna 196 Dr Salim Ali Bird tours 132 Sanctuary 98 Christianity 209 Mandrem 155 Camões, Luís Vaz de 104 field guides 219 Church of Our Lady of the Candolim 123-9, 124 Immaculate guides 36 accommodation 126-7 Conception 9, 84, 8-9 Margao 163 activities 126 churches & cathedrals Mumbai 55 drinking 128-9 Basilica de Bom Jesus 9, Map Pages 000 black pepper 210, 15, see food 127-8 101-2, 9 Photo Pages 000 also spice farms nightlife 128-9 Chapel of St Anthony 104 251 Chapel of St Catherine craft beer 20, 70 environment 218-20 ghats 104 credit cards 229 environmental issues 143, Mahalaxmi Dhobi Chapel of scams 222 154, 178, 199, 220 Ghat 51 St Sebastian 85 cruises, see boat cruises etiquette 19 Virupaksha Temple 115 Church & Convent of currency 16 events, see festivals & Goa Gil 215 St Cajetan 102-3 customs regulations 227 events Goa Miles 20, 236

Church & Convent of exchange rates 17 Goa Velha 106-7 INDEX St Monica 103-4 cycling 234 Gokarna 195-6 Church of Nossa Senhora de Penha de F

-D  C Franca 160 dabba-wallahs 69 fado 215 H H  Church of Nossa dance 215 Faria, Abbé 85-7 haggling 214 Senhora, Mae de Deus dangers, see safety Feast of St Francis Xavier Hampi 114-20, 115, 116 129-31 26 death 207 Harmal, see Arambol Church of Our Lady of Fernandes, Remo 216 deforestation 220 health 237-43 Compassion 99 ferry travel 20, 234 Dhangars 113 carbon monoxide Church of Our Lady of festivals & events 14, Miracles 144 Slum 56 poisoning 242 23-6, 14 Church of Our Lady of diarrhoea 239-40 envrionental hazards carnaval 25, 89, 25 241-3 the Immaculate disabilities, travellers Conception 9, 84, 8-9 with 226 Holi 14 food 241 Church of Our Lady of Divar Island 98-9 Kala Ghoda Arts Festival heat 241-2 47, the Mount 105 diving 36 2 insurance 237 films 198, 217 Church of Our Lady of Baga 131 medicines 238 Bollywood films 75, 217 the Rosary 104 Bogmalo 175 water 240 fisheries 178 Church of St Andrew 106 Calangute 131 healthcare 239 Church of St Anne 106-7 Candolim 126 food 210-12, 22 Hindi 244-6 Church of St Francis of safety 241 beach shacks 33 Hindu temples Assisi 103, 29 dogs 184 blogs 212 Achyutaraya Temple 115 Church of St Lawrence dolphin-spotting 35 contamination 222 Elephanta Island 54 107, 125 Benaulim 176 dabba-wallahs 69 Hazarama Temple 117 Church of St Thomas etiquette 211 Iskcon Temple 51 160 Bogmalo 175 health 241 Temple 115 Church of the Holy Candolim 126 Parsi cafes 63 Spirit 163 Colva 171 Lakshimi Narasmiha 115 Portuguese Mount Church 163 Mobor 179 Mahabaleshwara Temple influences 97 195 Our Lady of Mercy Panaji 88-9 price ranges 228 Mahaganapati Temple Church 171 Dona Paula 96-8 scams 222 195 Rachol Seminary & drinking & nightlife 14, Mahalaxmi Temple 88 Church 169 22, see also individual street food 66, 212 Reis Magos Church 123 locations vegan 212 Maruti Temple 88, 144 Ruins of the Church of beach parties 31, 32 vegetarian 212 Shri Chandreshwar Temple 168-9 St Augustine 105 trance parties 149 football 209 Shri Damodar Temple Sé Cathedral 100-1 drinks 212 Fort Aguada 125, 124, 22 169 St Teresa’s Church 51 beer 70 forts 193 Shri Laxmi Narasimha Cabo Raj Bhavan 96-7 St Thomas’ Cathedral 50 contamination 222 Temple 109-10 Chapora Fort 147 climate 16, 23-6, 16 craft beer 20, 70 Shri Mahadeva Temple climbing 117-18 scams 222 Corjuem Fort 160-1 112-13 clothing 18, 224 water 240 Fort Aguada 125 , Shri Mahalaxmi clubbing 14, 149 driving, see car travel 124, 22 Temple 110 Cola 180-1 drugs 222, 228 Reis Magos Fort 123 Shri Mahalsa Temple Colva 171-2, 172 Dudhsagar Falls 11, 111- Terekhol Fort 161 108-9 conservation 143, 154, 178 12, 10 Shri Manguesh Temple 109 consulates 227-8 G Shri Naguesh Temple 110 cookbooks 212 Galgibag 192-4 E Shri Ramnath Temple cooking classes 37 galleries, see museums & eco travel 143 110 Assagao 142 galleries electricity 227 Shri Saptakoteshwara Palolem 185 Elephanta Island 15, 54, 15 Ganesh Chaturthi 25, 25 Temple 161 Siolim 151 embassies 227-8 gay travellers 73, 229 Shri Shantadurga Temple Vagator 147 emergencies 17 gems 223 109 courses 37 Ghandi, Mahatma 46 252 Hindu temples continued Mandrem 12, 155-7, 152, 12 internet access 76-7 N Virupaksha Temple 114 Mapusa 144-5 itineraries 46 national parks, see also Vittala Temple 115 Margao 163-8 LGBTIQ+ travellers 73 parks & gardens, 208 Margao area 168-71, 166 medical services 77 wildlife sanctuaries history 21, 200-5 markets 21-2, 213-14 metro 81 Molem National Park 113 Holi festival 14 Anjuna 13, 140, 2, 13 money 77 Sanjay Gandhi National

INDEX INDEX Park 77 holidays 230 Arpora 135 nightlife 69-72 Nerul Beach 123 hypnotism 85-7 Baga 135, 136 Parsi cafes 63 Netravali Bubble Lake 194 Calangute 132 postal services 77

H- newspapers 230  Mapusa 144 safe travel 76

& P I nightlife, see drinking  marriage 207 shopping 73-6 insurance 228 nightlife Mayem Lake 161 sights 47-54 diving north Goa 42, 121-61, 122 measures 230 street food 66 health 237 accommodation 121 medical services 239 taxis 81 internet access 228 food 121 meditation classes 35 tourist information 77 internet resources 17 highlights 122 Anjuna 137 tours 55-6 food 212 weather 121 train travel 79, 81 health 239 Island 51, 54 travel agencies 78 women travellers 225 Mandrem 156 travel to/from 78-80 Islam 208-9 mining 220 O mobile phones 16, 230-1 travel within 80-1 Ola 81 itineraries 27-30, 27, Old Goa 9, 99-106, 100, 9 28, 30 Mobor 178-9 walking tours 59, 59 Molem 111-14 museums & galleries architecture 102 money 16, 17, 229 Archaeological Museum events 105 K scams 222 103 festivals 105 Kala Ghoda Arts Festival monkeys 218, 15 Archaeological Museum sights 100-105 47, 2 (Hampi) 117 Morjim 151-3, 152 opening hours 17, 229 Kamala Nehru Park 40, 40 Chhatrapati Shivaji mosques Khancola 180-1 Maharaj Vastu 50 Khandepar 107 Sangrahalaya 49 P Safa Shahouri Masjid Khotachiwadi 51 DAG 50 painting 217 110-11 Palolem 11, 184-90, Railway 11, 233, 10 Dr Bhau Daji Lad motorcycle taxis 236 Mumbai City 186-7, 11 Konkani 246-7 motorcycle travel 13, Museum 50 Panaji 9, 84-96, 86, 8, 19 235, 13 Gitanjali Gallery 85 accommodation 89-91 L Mumbai 44-81, 45, 48, Goa Chitra 176 activities 88-9 lakes 161 52-3, 60-1, 64, 2-3, 12 Goa Science Centre & climate 82 languages 16, 244-8 accommodation 44, Planetarium 87-8 drinking 93 56-62 leatherwork 214 Goa State Museum & entertainment 94 activities 55 Secretariat legal matters 228-9 events 89 airports 78, 80 Building 84 LGBT+ travellers 73, 229 festivals 89 Hampi Heritage libraries 84-5, 163 autorickshaws 81 Gallery 116 food 91-3 literature 215-16, see also boat trips 80 Houses of Goa information 95 books Bollywood tours 75 Museum 160 nightlife 93 local life 206-9 breweries 70 50 shopping 94-5 Loutolim 170-1 bus travel 78-9, 81 Kidzania 74 sights 84-5, 87-8 car-sharing services 81 Kristu Kala Mandir Art tours 89 children, travel with 74 Gallery 105 travel to/from 95-6 M climate 44 Madgaon, see Margao Mario Gallery 85 travel within 96 costs 57 magazines 230 Museum of Christian Panjim, see Panaji courses 55 Majorda 173-4 Art 103 papier-mâché 214 dabba-wallahs 69 malaria 239 Museum of Goa 129 parks & gardens, see also Dharavi Slum 56 mando 215 National Gallery of national parks, wildlife drinking 69-72 Mandovi River area 123 Modern Art 50 sanctuaries entertainment 72 Naval Aviation Azad Maidan 88 festivals 47 Museum 175 Campal Gardens 88 food 44, 62-9 San Thome Museum & Map Pages 000 highlights 45 176 Botanical Gardens 169 Photo Pages 000 history 46 music 215 63 253 parties 14, 149, 14 water 240 telephone services 16, International Animal Patnem 190-2 women travellers 224-5 230-1 Rescue 142 photography 223 scams 222-3 television 230 Mango Tree Goa 144 Piedade 98-9 sexual harassment 224 textiles 214 Mumbai 55 Pilar Seminary 106 Shah, Adil 105 theatre 217 vrindavan 208 Pinto Revolt 85 Shantadurga 23 time zones 16, 231

tipping 19 INDEX planning Shigmotsav 24 W toilets 231 calendar of events 23-6 shopping 21-2, 213-14, see walking tours 59, 59 also markets tourism industry 143, 198 clothes 18 water, drinking 240

-Sinquerim Beach 123-9, tourist information 231  P Goa basics 16-17 water sports 31-2, 36 tours 36-7  Y 124 internet resources 17 weather 16, 23-6 accommodation 126-7 bus 20 packing 18, 238 websites 17 activities 126 wildlife watching 36 repeat visitors 20 food blogs 212 drinking 128-9 train travel 11, 233-4, 236 travel seasons 16 health 239 food 127-8 trance music 215 plantations, see spice women travellers 225 farms nightlife 128-9 trance parties 149 weights 230 plants 220 sights 125-6 transport wi-fi 228 Polem 194 shopping 129 safety 225 wildlife 218-20 Siolim 151 scams 223 Ponda 107-11, 108 wildlife sanctuaries 15, 220, slums 56 population 199 solo travellers 225 15, see also Portuguese influences 97 snakes 219 women travellers 225 birdwatching, post 229 snow sports 131 travel to Goa 232-4 dolphin-spotting, public holidays 230 soccer 209 travel within Goa 17, 234-6 national parks, wildlife solo travellers 225 turtles 143, 151, 154, 192 watching South Goa 42, 162-96, Bhagwan Mahavir Q 164-5 Wildlife Sanctuary 113 Querim 161 accommodation 162 U Uber 81 Bondla Wildlife food 162 Utorda 173-4, Sanctuary 111 highlights 164 37 R Butterfly Conservatory radio 230 weather 162 of Goa 111 Rajbag 192 souvenirs 214 V Cotigao Wildlife Reis Magos 123 spas 21 vacations 230 Sanctuary 184 religion 199, 208-9 spice farms 15, 110, 113 vaccinations 237-8 Dr Salim Ali Bird reptiles 219 spices 210, 15 Vagator 145-51, 146 Sanctuary 98 rice 210-11 sport 209 accommodation 147-8 wildlife watching 15, 33, 36 ride-sharing apps St Francis 204 courses 147 seasons 220 Goa Miles 20, 236 stadiums 163 drinking 150 tours 163 Ola 81 street food 66, 212 food 148-50 women in Goa 208 safety 225 surfing 36, 152-3, 157, nightlife 150 women travellers 224-5 Uber 81 181, 195 sights 145-7 health 243 rock art 169 health 241 shopping 150 susegad 97, 207 vegan travellers 212 Y swimming 31-2 vegetarian travellers 212 yoga 34-5, 137 S synagogues 50 Velsao 174-5 safety 230 Anjuna 137, 139 Virupapur Gaddi 119 drugs 222 Arambol 157 visas 16, 231 Mumbai 76 T beaches 33 volunteering 37-8 ride-sharing apps 225 Taj Mahal Palace 47-8 Gokarna 195 Animal Rescue Centre road 235 Talpona 192-4 Mandrem 155-6 185 scams 222-3 Tanshikar Spice Farm 194 Mumbai 55 El Shaddai 142 solo travellers 225 taxes 231 Palolem 184-5 Goa Animal Welfare taxis 236, see also Patnem 191 swimming 32 Trust 184 ride-sharing apps taxis 225 Goa Foundation 143 transport 225 safety 225 254 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paul Harding Goa As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia. He’s on twitter @phtravel and at paulharding.contently.com.

Kevin Raub Mumbai Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, until he ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing. He has written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal, since. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers, and continues pounding the world’s pavements with one goal in mind: membership in the Travelers’ Century Club before the age of 50. His country count currently stands at 93. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @RaubOnTheRoad.

Iain Stewart Beyond Goa Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned over 60 books for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain has contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mexico, Indonesia, Central America, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali & Lombok and Southeast Asia. He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer and Daily Telegraph and tweets at @iaintravel. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Iain lives in Brighton (UK) within firing range of the city’s wonder- ful south-facing horizon.

Contributing Writer Daniel McCrohan wrote the Scams and Women & Solo Travellers chapters.

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