fllie M®��1f�l]�r;r;m Published by Seattle, Washington..., 'December15, 1953 THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC. ITS OBJECT To explore and study the mountains, forests, and water cours­ es of the Northwest; to gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; to preserve by encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise, the natural beauty of North­ west America; to make expeditions into these regions in ful­ fillment of the above purposes ; to encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of out-door life. THE MOUNTAINEER LIBRARY The Club's library is one of the largest mountaineering col­ lections in the country. Books, periodicals, and pamphlets from many parts of the world are assembled for the interested reader. Mountaineering and skiing make up the largest part of the col­ lection, but travel, photography, nature study, and other allied subjects are well represented. After the period 1915 to 1926 in which The Mountaineers received books from the Bureau of Associate Mountaineering Clubs of North America, the Board of Trustees has continuously appropriated money for the main­ tenance and expansion of the library. The map collection is a valued source of information not only for planning trips and climbs, but for studying problems in other areas. NOTICE TO AUTHORS AND COMMUNICATORS Manuscripts offered for publication should be accurately typed on one side only of good, white, bond paper 81f2xll inches in size. Drawings or photographs that are intended for use as illustrations should be kept separate from the manuscript, not inserted in it, but should be transmitted at the same time. A title, caption, and credit line should be provided with each photo­ graph. All manuscripts should be sent to the Editor, c/o The Mountaineers, Inc., P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington. Membership in The Mountaineers is not a prerequisite for publication in "The Mountaineer" but preference will be given papers communicated by members of the Club. Reprints will be furnished at cost to an author provided order is received when corrected proof is returned. Communications regarding subscriptions, orders, changes of address, and interest in membership should be sent to the Secre­ tary, The Mountaineers, Inc., P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington. PACIFIC PRINTING COMPANY OF SEATTLE, INC. SEATTLE The- MOUNTAINEER VOLUME FORTY-SIX Number 13 December 15, 1953 Organized 1906 lncorpora ted 191 3 PETER M. McLELLAN, Editor ASSISTANT EDITORS Janet Caldwell Morda C. Slauson CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Norma Judd, Tacoma Adelsa Doph, Everett EDITORIAL BOARD Harold Babcock Helen Froberg A. E. Harrison Donald Doyle -una Morse CARTOGRAPHY CLIMBING ADVISOR Harold Babcock Frank Doleshy Donald Doyle PUBLICATION ASSISTANTS H. V. Abel Elenor Buswell Evelyn McCullough Isabel Rostykus Pamela Atherton Mrs. Irving Gavett Lee Snider Loretta Slater Armene Bostanian Betty Gripper John Van Patten Blanche West Viola Hummell Jeal) Ripley Subscription Price $2.00 a Year Published monthly, January to November, inclusive, and semi-monthly during December by THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC., P.O. Box 122, Seattle 11, Washington Clubrooms at 523 Pike Street Entered as Second Class Matter, April 18, 1922, at Post Office at Seattle, Washington, under the Act of March 3, 1879 COPYRIGHT, 1953, BY THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC. l'hoto by Frank Maranville MOUNT BUCKNER AND CASCADE PASS PEAKS M. Muzzy enjoying view of Buckner and its hanging glacier from summit of Mount Goode. Sahale, Boston, Forbidden, and Eldorado Peaks are in the background. Part of the extensive Boston Glacier shows on the right below Eldorado. 2 December 15 CoNTENTS 1953 "K-2 WILL BE CLIMBED"---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5 By Pete Schoening PHOTOGRAMMETRIC GLACIER MEASUREMENTS on the VOLCANIC PEAKS OF WASHINGTON ______________________________________ . 7 By Walther Hofmann THE INDIANS OF THE NORTHWEST______________________________________________________ 17 By Erna Gunther TRIAL BY WEATHER-1953 ASCENTS OF MOUNT ROBSON____________ 21 By Don Claunch THE ENVIRONS OF SILVER STAR__________________________________________________________ 25 By Fred Beckey MOUNT LOGAN-COOK EXPEDITION, 1953 ____________________________________________ 29 By Franz Mohling REFLECTION AT A BEA VER POND ________________________________________________________ 35 By Olaus J. Murie. SOUTH OF CASCADE PAss ______________________________________________________________ ·------·- 39 By Erick Karlsson MOUNTAINEER ACTIVITIES______________________________________________________________________ 42 CLIMBING NOTES----------------------------------------····------------····---···-····------·-····-······ 67 REPORTS Mountain Rescue Council._______________________________________________________________________ 69 Mountaineering Accidents........ ·-·-····-·--·---····-······-·-·-····-·-········-·····-··-·-··· 69 Climbing --·-·····-··-···········--··--··········--·············-·-····-···········-···------------ ···--··- 72 Rescent Ascents of Mount Rainier·-·····-·--····--···-------·-····--····················· 74 New Equipment ..... -------------·-···-·--···--··-·····-·--·-----·--···--·-··-·····-·-······-·········· 75 REVIEWS, ABSTRACTS and BIBLIOGRAPHY _______________________________ ........ 76 ADMINISTRATION ---·-····-·--··-········-······-·-··-···-··--·---------------------····-··-·--·········· 80 Officers, Trustees and Committee Cha)rmen.·------------------··········-········· 81 Treasurers' Reports__ ··-·········-·--···--····--·-- ······-·······--------------·········-·· .......... 82 MEMBERSHIP ROSTER_ ______···············-----------·-·····--------···--··-···----···-··· -······-· 85 3 Photo b-v Pete Schoe-11iiil{ THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE OF K-2 This ridge is the approximate route to the summit, above and out of the photograph. The party reached the upper plateau which is at the very upper left hand side of the photo. 4 THE MOUNTAINEER DECEMBER 15, 1953 Volume XLVI Number 13 ((K-2 WILL BE CLIMBED"* By PETE SCHOENING N AUGUST 1 of 1953 our entire reach the upper limits. Experience and party of eight, which included evaluation of these problems will even­ O Dee Molenaar, Bob Craig, and tually teach the means of obtaining the myself, reached Camp VIII at approxi­ summit. The major essentials that have mately 25,500 feet on K-:2, Along with been discovered thus far can be briefly the essential climbing equipment, we summarized. SUPPLY. had over 10 days food and gasoline. 1. As on any extended climb, With the possible exception of two mem­ the supply line must be adequate and bers, all were in fine physical condition the camps sufficiently stocked to al­ and mental spirits. This situation is leviate the danger of being trapped quite unique considering the extreme al­ by storms. Supply line techniques titude and the fatiguing route over must be worked out to fit the particu­ which we had been relaying loads. Given lar mountain. a break in the weather, we were confi­ ACCLIMATIZATION. dent that the summit could be reached. 2. A physiological Then the Monsoon hit K-2 with full force change takes place in the body which and almost unbelievable intensity. The accustoms it to the higher elevations wind and blowing snow raged on and and the lower partial pressure of oxy­ after 10 days at this highest camp, dur­ gen. Most high altitude climbers know ing which time one member became ill, when they have become acclimatized we started down. This seemed to be the to one altitude and when they can go only hope for survival. Thus, another higher. In order to speed this process, expedition had failed to reach K-2's we eliminated the use of native port­ 28,250 foot summit. ers high on the mountain and thus However, there is little doubt but that became acclimatized effectively dur­ someday K-2 will be climbed, and prob­ ing relaying loads between camps. DETERIORATION. ably climbed without the use of oxygen. 3. Dr. Charles Houston, Members of previous expeditions have our leader, believes that high altitude expressed this same opinion. There will deterioration is largely due . to the always be approximately the same severe conditionus under which the climbing problems presented to all ex­ climber must live. Thus, lack of sleep, peditions that are fortunate enough to poor and insufficient food, and the *This short article was designed to set forth some specific problems encountered in climbing K-2. A cold are the major contributing fac­ complete account will be published in the American tors in high altitude deterioration. Alpine Journal.-Ed. In many ways our expedition substan- s The Mountaineer Photo by Pete Schoe11i11g TRANGO TOWERS Seen from about 14,000 feet on the Baltoro Glacier these towers approach 20,000 feet. A few of the more than 150 Balti porters hired to carry supplies into base camp are shown a_t work. tiatedt his theory. Comfort is of great years. Had the attempt for the sum­ importance and much more so than in mit been planned for early in July, low altitude mountaineering. Other the threat of the Monsoon would not high altitude climbers believe that have existed. above approximately 21,000 feet the TAINEERING RULES. 6. Mou Most im­ human body can not function properly portant are the common sense rules and will slowly deteriorate, the rate of deterioration depending upon the of mountaineering: never travel be­ height above the equilibrium eleva­ yond one's ability and knowledge; never travel in bad weather; keep the tion.A strategy requirement in climbing party organized and together ; and high peaks is to balance the