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Inside: List WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ The appearance of Madonna caused a furor, but Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show offered reason to celebrate, as he dazzled. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Still knitting together its megamerger with May Department Stores, THE DOW AND TAO OF APPAREL 1 Federated Department Stores Inc. is now looking to weave a better Web. As Markets Fluctuate, Women Dare to be Bullish On Wardrobe Portfolio EYE: Making the rounds at Sundance, and talking with the likes of Eliza- 4 beth Reaser, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Chiwetel Ejiofor and Gretchen Mol. Everyone knows the importance of investing It may also be somewhat about a sense of DENIM: Fall and winter styles inspired by a blend of rock and pop was a wisely for a strong financial future and smart women effortless wear and easy elegance, asserts Lynn Cohen, 11 prominent theme at the Bread & Butter trade show in Barcelona. carry that practice over to their wardrobes. In flush proprietor of Runway, a boutique with locations in times, it’s easy to justify the indulgence, but when Manhattan’s Flatiron and Soho Districts. “Women Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 leading indicators begin pointing want to get dressed once and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. south, the case becomes a little look really pulled together for [email protected], using the individual’s name. more difficult. Many women will the entire sphere of events in a WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- argue the merits of investing in their given day from work to RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 18. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- wardrobes either as a result of, or in meetings to dinner out,” she ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- spite of, market performance. tells. “They want to be taken ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Borrowing a page from the Dress for seriously and having the right Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and Success tome, many believe that look is critical to that.” Cohen C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior great apparel is literally a personal may clearly be on to something. Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance investment, an investment in career Nearly six out of ten female Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. and in the way the world perceives respondents said that they prefer 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable them. to wear one comfortable outfit Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, There may be some good news for all the different activities in a ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four ahead for these bullish shoppers. day, versus changing clothes to weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. With analysts predicting an overall fit a range of different events, Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other surge for the Dow Jones Industrial according to the Monitor. U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. “A stronger stock market is First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Average, women may likely be able One garment getting women and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions always a driver of consumption to indulge their urge to splurge on through their varied activities is and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To for more luxury goods. Women subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make fashion and in particular, luxury denim and the penchant for our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would will be trading up to higher and interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise apparel, with a little less guilt. premium denim shows no signs us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. The majority of women are higher brands to differentiate and of abating. “Ninety percent of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- positive about the economy. diversify themselves” the jeans we are selling at the ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, According to theCotton Incorporated — Milton Pedraza, moment are above the $250 OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Lifestyle Monitor™, 64.9% of Luxury Institute mark,” Cohen continues. “With female respondents stated that embellishment and slight details, they were “somewhat” to “very optimistic” about women are basically wearing denim works of art.” their own financial situations. This is encouraging A pair of premium jeans is a true investment piece, In Brief news for the upscale apparel market, which will analyzes Paige Adams, owner and designer of Paige likely enjoy some robust interest from female Denim. “As consumers become more savvy and ● JONES’ EXECUTIVE MOVE: Howard Zwilling has been pro- consumers looking to spread the proverbial wealth. educated about premium denim, they realize that they moted to group chief executive offi cer for Jones moderate “It’s almost a rite of passage that once you come get what they are paying for. They recognize the sportswear at Jones Apparel Group. Zwilling had been presi- dent of the moderate sportswear group, responsible for the into a little more money, you will be upgrading your difference in the fabric, fit, construction, and length of Erika and Pappagallo brands. His new responsibilities in- wardrobe,” considers Linda DeFranco, a senior wear over time. They see how they fit and feel on the clude the moderate sportswear brands Norton McNaughton, trend forecaster with Cotton Incorporated. “It seems body and how it’s worth the price.” Nine & Co., Joneswear, Bandolino, Evan-Picone and Rena only natural.” “Denim has become the new black pant; we wear Rowan. Jones is conducting a search to fi ll Zwilling’s previous Many women build their wardrobes in much the jeans everywhere,” contends Fister from post. He continues to report to Lynne Cote, ceo for wholesale same fashion that they build their portfolios, ShopBop.com. “Investing in a great pair is well sportswear, suits and dresses. worth the money since we diversifying a good mix of LIFESTYLE MONITOR: ● TANDY APPOINTMENT: Tandy Brands Accessories has blue chip stocks with classic wear denim all of the time.” Women’s Personal Financial Outlook: appointed Jane Batts as president of its women’s division. investments, says Milton Another item to get a great Batts, who was most recently president of the Dallas office Pedraza, chief executive Somewhat optimistic 40.1% deal of both wear and of talent agency Strategic Transitions Inc., began her new officer of Luxury Institute, Very optimistic 24.8% attention is a fabulous coat, role this week. She will report to J.S.B. Jenkins, president an independent and objec- Neither optimistic/pessimistic 21.5% observes Kim Johnson, and chief executive officer of Tandy Brands. “This is part tive research organization Somewhat pessimistic 6.7% owner of Johnson. The of a strategic move to drive business in women’s accesso- Very pessimistic 2.3% ries,” said Jenkins of the appointment. “Batts has a lot of that focuses solely on the top retailer, who sells her designs experience developing brands. We hope with her on board ten percent of America’s wealthy. “There’s certainly via the web and through a store located on Manhattan’s to build up what he have today and look to new opportu- no question that women will be looking to buy Lower East Side, observes that her customers are willing nities.” Tandy Brands designs, manufactures and markets luxury goods this year,” he anticipates. “A stronger to shell out the bigger bucks for their outerwear. “Classic men’s, children’s and women’s accessories under various stock market is always a driver of consumption for and simple coats last a few years and feel like a brand names and private labels, and holds the licenses for more luxury goods. Women will be trading up to permanent piece of your wardrobe. In fact, regardless of Levi’s, Levi Strauss Signature and Docker accessories. Key products for the 80-year-old brand, which incorporated in higher and higher brands to differentiate and the economy, a good coat makes for a good style 1990, include belts, wallets, handbags, socks, scarves and diversify their wardrobes.” investment.” cold-weather and hair accessories. The company reported “This season, I anticipate people moving toward Such introspective justification of prices is yet another net sales of $221 million in 2005. purchasing more aspirational items; they are more indicator of the emerging and evolving savviness of willing, able and wanting to purchase items that are today’s consumer. And women are becoming ● TORRID HEAD LEAVES: Patricia Van Cleave, president of known for exceptional fit, quality and style, versus increasingly savvy as they learn to trust themselves and the Torrid division of Hot Topic Inc., resigned from the com- pany to pursue other interests. Betsy McLaughlin, president purchasing a cheaper version that does not wear or fit their personal style, says Cohen from Runway. “Any and chief executive offi cer of Hot Topic, will serve as the in- as well,” observes Alle Fister, stylist and spokesperson time that you make a purchase that expresses or terim leader for Torrid. The company’s December 2005 comp- for ShopBop.com, a chic web destination. highlights your individuality, you are making a great store sales were down 6.2 percent, and the company revised The experts point to several hot commodities in investment.” its fourth-quarter earnings guidance down to 21 to 24 cents apparel this year, ranging from premium denim to coats This story is one in a series of articles based on findings per diluted share from 30 to 38 cents per share. Hot Topic operates 121 Torrid stores, which focuses on young, plus-size to luxury knitwear to suits to lingerie. “It’s about that from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ women. feeling of showing off, whether it’s something obvious tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, that everyone can see, like a great overcoat or a well-cut each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the ● KURZ RESIGNATION: Seven For All Mankind confirmed jean right down to something that only you know about, American consumer and her attitudes and behavior Tuesday that Andreas Kurz resigned as chief executive offi cer. like a truly sumptuous undergarment,” DeFranco the regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, Kurz’s departure was fi rst reported in WWD on Monday. He was forecaster maintains. “It’s about how these items make fiber selection and many other timely, brought on as ceo in March after Bear Stearns Merchant Banking you feel that makes them luxurious and indulgent.” relevant subjects. acquired a 50 percent stake in the premium denim company. Kurz has assumed a new role as an adviser on business development in the Asian and Pacifi c regions, the company said. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 3 WWD.COM Farah Saluted at FIT Fund-Raiser NEW YORK — Roger Farah has a lot of friends and fans in high places. On Tuesday, the Fashion Institute of Technology honored Polo Ralph Lauren’s president and chief operating offi cer at a gala to benefi t the institution’s Educational Development Fund, and the 700-plus turnout of top industry executives was a tes- tament to how well respected Farah has become in his three successful decades in fashion and retail. “He is a class act and I have the most respect and admiration for him,” Ralph Lauren said. “We are both friends and business partners. If the U.S. was looking for another president and Roger were available, I’d pick him.” So would many others that night, it seemed, judging by the turnout. “It’s the Who’s Who of American retail and wholesale,” said Neiman Marcus’ Burt Tansky, scanning the crowd at Cipriani 42nd Street, which that night had enough Ralph Lauren dresses on hand for a line opening. Guests included Paul Charron, who had just announced he will retire from Liz Claiborne at the end of the year, Warnaco’s Joseph Gromek, Bergdorf Goodman’s Jim Gold and Linda Fargo, Saks Fifth Avenue’s Ron Frasch and Andrew Jennings, Barneys New York’s Howard Socol, Lord & Taylor’s Jane Elfers, J.C. Penney’s Myron E. “Mike” Ullman, as well as Marvin Traub and Jay Baker. In addition, almost every Polo senior executive came out to salute their president. Farah is a big supporter of developing new talent, and the gala raised $1.2 million for FIT, of which $500,000 will go directly to its scholarship endowment fund. Past honorees included Vera Wang, Phillips-Van Heusen Corp.’s Mark Weber and gossip columnist Liz Smith. Farah started his career at Saks and subsequently worked in top positions at Rich’s Roger Farah and Ralph Lauren Department store in Atlanta, Federated Merchandising Services, Macy’s and Venator STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY Corp., the former Woolworth’s. He joined Polo in 2001, and has helped transform it into one of the world’s fastest-growing luxury brands, tripling its European business, estab- lishing a global infrastructure and laying the foundation for global expansion. “He always says to us that hard work pays off, and if you want something done, you have to work for it. It won’t just happen to you,” Farah’s daughter, Alexis, said. Tansky, who was the gala’s chairman, worked with Farah at Saks in the late Seventies and early Eighties and presented him with the award. “Although he reported to me, it’s hard to say who learned more from whom, he from me or me from him,” Tansky said. “A Wharton graduate, he grew up in the family linge- rie business. Summers were spent at the cutting tables and in the shipping department, learning how to avoid markdown money.” Ralph Lauren leapt to his feet and led a standing ovation for Farah. “Ralph has been generous with his friendship and has created a culture that has en- abled me to grow and learn and continue my education,” Farah said. “Thank you, Ralph.” Farah also elicited a few chuckles from the crowd. “Burt and I were talking yesterday and couldn’t believe 29 years have gone by, or that we both had hair when we started,” he quipped. “I guess that is the sacrifi ce you make for too many overbought seasons.” — Marc Karimzadeh David Lauren Jerry Lauren and Buffy Birrittella

Burt Tansky, Roger Farah, Joyce Brown and Edwin Goodman Ricky Lauren Joseph Gromek and Gail Pisano Ron and Georgia Frasch Calvin Klein to Close Paris Store Armani, Gap and Bono NEW YORK — Bono is turning to several fashion giants in By Miles Socha Jeans in France, with the fi rst opening at 142 his mission to fi ght AIDS in Africa. Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris next month Giorgio Armani, Gap and Converse are joining the PARIS — Calvin Klein Inc. is saying au revoir to and another in Cannes in March. In addition, pop icon in a new initiative to raise money for the cause. Paris’ hottest designer shopping strip just as the ck Calvin Klein stores are slated to open this Together with American Express, they are launching a new likes of Chloé, Jimmy Choo, Bottega Veneta and spring in Lille, France, and the Italian cities of brand called Red, which is expected to be announced at Chrome Hearts are saying bonjour. Montecatini, Arezzo and Bergamo. the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland, today. Klein said Wednesday its company-owned Klein fi rst opened a Paris fl agship at 45 Avenue Gap and Armani representatives were unable at press boutique at 53 Avenue Montaigne would go dark Montaigne in 1997, with the designer himself de- time to discuss their involvement, though an Armani on Saturday. A spokesman declined to elaborate claring it a dream come true to be at “the histori- spokesman confi rmed early on Wednesday that the de- on the reasons for the closure, and Tom Murry, cal center of fashion.” That unit, under a licensing signer was in Davos. The news leaked late Wednesday CKI’s president and chief operating offi cer, was agreement with retailer Alain Adjadj, closed in night, when Ft.com reported the brands participating in not available for comment. 2000 and was replaced by a company-owned store the deal. According to the site, Red is a fi ve-year initiative According to sources, the Paris store recently in 2002. that will feature merchandise from each of the involved began to attract a loyal clientele for its men’s Klein was the only American designer parties, including an AmexCo Red credit card, Converse wear, but not enough to justify the continued op- nameplate on a strip dominated by the likes sneakers, Gap vintage-style T-shirts and Emporio Armani eration of the 5,800-square-foot emporium. of Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, sunglasses. Bobby Shriver also is working for the cause In a release, Klein said the licensee of its col- Ferragamo, Escada, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander with Bono. lection and bridge lines, Fingen SpA, would now and Valentino. The fashion crowd — Stella McCartney, Tamara Mellon, expand its retail presence in French department Still, the company said it plans to build the Mario Testino, Claudia Schiffer and others — will be stores. profi le of its Collection and CK brands in France among the fi rst to view the AmexCo Red credit card come Calvin Klein, a division of Phillips-Van Heusen by soon appointing a “high-profi le” public rela- Friday night. All have been invited to a party hosted by Corp., also said Wednesday that Fingen would tions person in Paris. Previously, Klein had an Vanity Fair’s Elizabeth Saltzman in London to introduce open freestanding boutiques for Calvin Klein in-house team. the card. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 WWD.COM Dry Sherry Maggie Gyllenhaal PARK CITY, Utah — Maggie Gyllenhaal is a virtual Sundance fi xture, having attended the fi lm festival a multitude of times, including one stint on the jury. So it’s hardly a surprise to see her here again, curled up on a white Ultrasuede sofa in one of several multimedia lounges along Main Street. In the dramatic competition entry, “Sherrybaby,” directed by Laurie Collyer, Gyllenhaal plays Sherry, a drug addict recently freed from a three-year jail sentence who returns home to try to raise her fi ve-year-old daughter. It’s her meatiest role since “Secretary.” The Elizabeth Reaser fi lm’s emotional honesty, along with some and Gretchen Mol cringe-inducing moments, may be typical of many Sundance entries, but it’s not the sort that the actress comes across very often. “I read so many scripts and so few of them actually deal with the way that real human beings behave,’’ she said, her GIRL TALK voice hoarse from interviews. “After 10 PARK CITY, Utah — Newcomer Elizabeth Reaser (“The pages, I knew this was it.” Family Stone”) stars as a lesbian Manhattanite who gets Though she’s at the point in her career tangled up in a bisexual love triangle with a former couple, where top fi lmmakers have begun to come played by Gretchen Mol and Justin Kirk, in the frothy but calling, Gyllenhaal hasn’t abandoned her likable fi lm “Puccini for Beginners.” Shot over 18 days in independent roots. “It’s a gamble to get September in the kind of picturesque West Village haunts involved in a teeny-tiny fi lm with a fi rst- and cozy apartments that make both non-New Yorkers time feature director and no distributor,’’ and natives wonder what they’re missing, the fi lm delivers she said. “But if you love a fi lm, this is the belly laughs as well as poignant moments. Reaser and Mol best way to be at the festival. It’s exciting.” sat down at Sundance to chat about playing lovers and the Dressed in a beloved high-necked cardigan she bought fi ve years ago in Paris (the yarn is starting perks of acting in independent fi lms. to show wear in the arms) and a pair of superdark denims, Gyllenhaal seemed happy and mellow. — M.M. “This fi lm was tough to disconnect myself from,’’ she said. “When I fi nished, I was a mess. It took me a long time to get over it.” It also took her a long time to get over the battery of bad hairstyles she sported. “I dyed it blonde, WWD: What made you want to do this movie? cut it and got extensions. There was a lot of hair stuff going on,’’ she recalled. “I’m not sure why my Elizabeth Reaser: The script was so sexy and different and character did it, but when I was younger, whenever I got anxious, I would dye or cut my hair.” smart, I just wanted to be Allegra so badly it was killing Now in the midst of shooting Oliver Stone’s untitled 9/11 project, she’s back to her natural, me. When I got it, I was screaming and calling everyone, shoulder-length brown locks, which couldn’t please her more. “It’s good to feel like myself again.” like I usually do. Gretchen Mol: The script had me laughing out loud. I — Marcy Medina haven’t done that much comedy, so I was excited in that prospect to play Grace.

WWD: Do you live in New York? SALT LAKE CITY — From Shakespeare to Mel Brooks, men-in-drag roles have always E.R.: I do. been attention-grabbers. The talented British actor Chiwetel Ejiofor, who stars in the G.M.: I just moved back to L.A. But I still have an Miramax comedy “Kinky Boots,” last Friday night’s Salt Lake City Gala fi lm, takes the apartment there. role a step further with his sensitive and well-crafted portrayal of Lola, a cross-dressing E.R.: [to G.M.] You’re still legit. cabaret star who becomes the new inspiration for a fl oundering shoe factory. “I didn’t want it to be too clichéd or caricature-like,” says the 6-foot-tall, soft-spoken WWD: Blockbusters versus indies? actor from his perch on a banquette in an empty restaurant here. “Not the sort of drag G.M.: I still want to get a great role in a big-budget movie, queen you never meet in real life, but only come across on television. Those roles have but the best roles I’ve done come from smaller-budget been done.” movies. Certainly Ejiofor, 31, is not one to repeat himself, either. Cinephiles will recall him E.R.: Small fi lmmakers are putting their heart and soul from his breakout role in Stephen Frear’s “Dirty and money into projects, so I feel such a responsibility, and Pretty Things,” and since his acting debut in Steven so proud, to be in these kinds of fi lms. Spielberg’s “Amistad,” he’s also worked with directors Spike Lee, Woody Allen, John Singleton and Joss WWD: How did you get along on the set? Whedon. Given his stellar résumé, “Kinky Boots” marks E.R.: She’s one of the most beautiful women I’ve ever seen the fi rst time Ejiofor has acted with a full-body wax, a in my life. She’s just sparkly and luminescent and talented wig, fake nails and 100 pairs of stilettos at his disposal. so it was really easy to act with her. Not to mention buckets of cosmetics, for what makeup G.M.: Enough. Stop! artist Trefor Proud defi nes as fi ve looks: “man drag, normal drag, a stage look, a beautiful look and a killer WWD: Now it’s your turn to embarrass her. drag look.” Singing onscreen is also a fi rst for the actor, G.M.:Elizabeth was this character. It was like a second who collaborated with fi lmmakers to choose Lola’s skin. The words just came off the page. diverse performance numbers. “I knew right away we had to have ‘Whatever WWD: What about the love scenes? Lola Wants’ and I’m extremely fond of ‘Yes Sir, I Can E.R.: Not weird at all. Boogie,’ ” he says. But switching gears is something the G.M.: I think we had pretty good chemistry. actor does well, having wrapped his latest fi lm, “The Children of Men,” directed by Alfonso Cuarón and co- WWD: What’s next? starring Clive Owen and Julianne Moore, just 10 days G.M.: I’m fi lming “Train Wreck” in March and I have “The ago. Next, he plans to take some time off in New York, Notorious Bettie Page” coming out in April. Chiwetel Ejiofor where, he says, “I’ll be well-prepared for the cold.” E.R.: I just did an Ed Burns fi lm called “Purple Violets” Gender Bender Gender — M.M. and a show for TNT called “Saved.” ALL PHOTOS BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE ALL PHOTOS BY

that everything from jeans to trendy gadgets have had their Park City this year. Along with Liz Phair, Dave Matthews and feuds. A representative for Seven For All Mankind was Good Charlotte, festival-goers rubbed shoulders with the SUNDANCE SCOOPS escorted out of Levi’s temporary store when she stopped by Beastie Boys, U2’s The Edge and Neil Young (all starring in to greet a friend, and fl acks for BlackBerry and Motorola documentaries here), Tommy Lee (Heather Locklear fl ew out The Charlie Kaufman-penned, Michel Gondry-directed “The performed spin control after a shoving match involving a to see her ex work as a DJ at the Benderspink party), Camp Science of Sleep” was snapped up by Warner Independent Motorola rep in the reception area of BlackBerry’s gifting Freddy, Metal Skool and Metallica. Even actress-singers Pictures on Monday for $6 million, while Miramax acquired suite. That scene was hardly necessary when there are ample Minnie Driver and Schuyler Fisk (Sissy Spacek’s daughter) the creepy Robin Williams thriller “The Night Listener” for $3 celebs touting all of the products. Meanwhile, Los Angeles performed at VIP lounges here. Driver, who has played at million on Tuesday. Other A-list-affi liated fi lms creating buzz denim designer Paige Gellar made sure she was covered. Sundance for three years, proved in her eight-song, 45-minute include the Brad Pitt-produced, Nicole Kidman-narrated Sudan She did double duty customizing jeans for celebs at Self set of folksy pop songs that she has singing chops and style. documentary, “God Grew Tired of Us,” the Robert Downey Jr. magazine’s swag suite and making personal appearances at She paired her black studded Levi’s hoodie and wide-leg vehicle, “A Guide to Recognizing Your Saints,” and the Tilda Park City’s answer to Fred Segal, the Main Street boutique capris with purple boots sporting built-in legwarmers, of which Swinton-Amber Tamblyn drama, “Stephanie Daley.” Chloe Lane, where she sold 400 pairs of jeans — at full price. she bragged, “These are $12 from downtown Los Angeles. I Competition is fi erce for more than fi lms here. It seems It seems there are just as many musicians as actors in went there with my girlfriend. It was the best fashion tip.” WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 5 WWD.COM

brownstone, which, naturally, is outfi tted signed. Branson earlier showed support with BDDW pieces. In the photos, the for Moss by hiring her to star in television MEMO PAD formerly clean-shaven Mitchell was commercials for Virgin’s cell phone service, sporting a slightly more rugged look. despite allegations last fall of cocaine abuse THE PRODIGAL PUBLISHER: Condé Nast isn’t “Chuck [Townsend] was here this that had caused other advertisers to drop exactly easy to leave. morning and told the Details staff I took her from their campaigns. After only a few months working in a walkabout,” Mitchell said. “There were Don’t place that Amazon.com preorder the outside world, running the furniture about four weeks where it was really fun to just yet, though. A spokesman for Storm, company BDDW, Chris Mitchell is returning wear jeans every day, grow a beard, drink Moss’ modeling agency, said on Tuesday to Condé Nast, and to his old job as vice bad coffee and work in SoHo. The beard that Moss had “no intention at all” of president and publisher of Details magazine. was the fi rst thing to go.” — Sara James publishing a book. That would seem to “Few people in this business get to take be more in character for the model, who a sabbatical,” Mitchell said Wednesday. MEMORY MOSS: Is Kate Moss writing a rarely makes her opinions public or gives “When I left, I told everyone here I would memoir? For a seemingly simple question, interviews. (A recent Vanity Fair cover give [the BDDW job] three months, but I it’s generating a fair bit of confusion. story on Moss was written without her knew within two weeks.” Reports in the British press earlier this participation and featured year-old photos.) At the three-month mark, Mitchell week claimed Virgin Books had reached a Moss is expected to give at least one reached out to Condé Nast chief executive deal to pay Moss 1 million pounds, or $1.8 interview, however — to the police. As offi cer Charles Townsend to tell him he million, for her autobiography. A Virgin reported, she is due to return to London missed the company and the magazine spokeswoman told WWD Wednesday the in the next few weeks to be questioned business. Townsend advised him to sit supermodel had “verbally agreed” with by the Metropolitan Police about her tight, and said something would open up Virgin chairman Richard Branson on the alleged drug use. One suspects she’d sooner or later. Within 24 hours of that project, but that a contract had yet to be prefer talking to the press. — Nina Jones

Chris Mitchell

Paul Jowdy

conversation, Leslie Picard, the publisher of Bon Appétit, resigned to take a job in corporate sales at Time Inc. Paul Jowdy, who was named publisher of Details shortly after Mitchell’s departure, was handed the vice president and publisher job at Bon Appétit, opening up Mitchell’s old desk. (Condé Nast Publications also owns WWD.) “I was hoping I would be able to return to publishing,” said Mitchell. “I was even more hoping to return to Condé Nast. But I never dreamed I’d be back at Details. To me, it’s the best possible homecoming, to come back to my staff.” Mitchell will attend the company’s publisher’s retreat in Miami next week and will start back at Details upon his return. Two weeks ago, he and his wife, Pilar Guzman, the editor in chief of Condé Nast’s new parenting magazine, Cookie, were featured on the front page of the House & Home section in The New York Times. They were photographed with their son, Henry, in their Brooklyn 6 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 Razzle-Dazzle Jean Paul Gaultier: “Madame. Ritche [sic].” A white card bearing the scripted name sat on a gold settee at Jean Paul Gaultier’s headquarters on Wednesday, the site of the designer’s gorgeous couture show. Not surprisingly, it ignited a paparazzi fi restorm well before Madonna arrived. Once she showed, the mayhem neared low-level violence while encapsulating the current paradox of haute couture: Its participants — both the houses and those who make up the audience — are increasingly confused and ambivalent as to what modern couture should be. Despite some fabulous fashion moments this week, in its current state the couture season relegated to a scant three days is something of a snooze, prompting some observers to go all nostalgic for the frenzied atmosphere of a few years ago when Donatella roped in the celebrities to party till dawn and John Galliano showed his Dior against Broadway-worthy stage sets. Back then, of course, the complaints were about the whoring out of the hallowed couture to the mutual lusts for marketing and movie-star dazzle. But when things turned quiet — snap! — the boredom struck instantly. The surprise lure of Madonna, whose upcoming tour costumes Gaultier is designing, exploded the season’s excitement quotient a million fold. As the audience and photographers got wind of it all, the anticipation bubbled over — hints of 2000! Unless you were seated near the center of the storm. As the possessed pack closed in on the places reserved for Madonna, an unnamed guest and Joachim Cortez, those sitting nearby feared for their safety. One cameraman told a seated guest that he would “do my best” not to draw blood with his equipment; a gentler sort, wielding a mike for Italian television, asked the woman for which magazine she and a colleague work. “If you say your names, I’ll send you fl owers,” he offered. “I know this is bad.” However one felt about the Madonna madness, the other show, the one on the runway, offered only reason for celebration. It was a dazzler in which Gaultier presented deft renderings of his chic signatures. Here were the tailoring, the grace, the embellishment, the mixes, the ethnic infl uences (Greece led the way this season), the encompassing Parisian aura, all delivered with near- perfect restraint. Gaultier fl aunted his bravado with a suit in reed-thin skirt versions and a pinstriped classic with manageably wide pants. When he sought counterpoint, it was with a double-breasted black jacket over an exuberant organza shirtdress. Evening presented an intriguing duality as Gaultier either embellished lavishly with intricate fl ouncing and embroideries or manipulated a single fabric for textural interest by pleating, twisting or draping. Whatever one’s pleasure, the dresses were of a dream. Gaultier’s fi nale was followed by that of Madame Ritchie. She exited down the grand marble staircase surrounded on three sides by her security and in front by the fl eet-footed paparazzi walking backwards, her pale skin and glistening blonde hair radiant in the sea of black. The scene played like a cut from a fi lm satire on celebrity culture. But then, at moments like this, cinema has nothing on cinéma verité. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 7 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops MAD FOR MADGE: Oh, the power of paper. Madonna’s arrival at Jean Paul Gaultier’s show Wednesday unleashed pandemonium, the paparazzi surging ’Em dangerously. But once in her seat, the queen of pop raised Catherine Deneuve and her program folder to Joachim Cortez cover her face — and a round of laughs diffused some of the tension. Once her burly bodyguards cleared the runway, Madonna jumped from her seat to greet French photographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino. As it turns out, the queen of pop is quite the polyglot, fi nding time to exchange a few words in Spanish with her front-row neighbor, fl amenco dancer Joachim Cortez. Gaultier also is designing costumes for Cortez and his 17 musicians for his new show, dubbed “My Loneliness.” It will be previewed March 1 at Gaultier’s atelier, followed by public performances at Le Grand Rex. “The costumes are inspired from Eastern European gypsies during the Thirties and Forties,” Cortez said. Meanwhile, “Amélie” director Jean-Pierre Jeunet said he had just fi nished writing a screenplay for the best-selling novel “Life of Pi.” “I loved the book,” he said. “I hope we’ll start fi lming sometime later this year.” Across the room, Catherine Deneuve commented on her recent whirlwind tour in Los Angeles, where she was promoting her role as the newest beauty icon for MAC cosmetics. “I didn’t even have a second to think,” said the French screen legend. “It was a mass of parties. I love L.A., but there were just a few too many parties for my taste.”

SECOND THOUGHTS?: John Galliano, responsible for a Dior couture show and a John Galliano men’s wear show this week in Paris, may be taking on yet another major design task. Sources said he’s plotting a second women’s ready-to-wear line for his signature house with Italy’s IT Holding, maker of such brands as Gianfranco Ferré, Just Cavalli and Exte. Details could not be learned, but the fi rst collection could be ready as soon as summer.

ROXY ROLLERS: Bryan Ferry gave the couture crowd a thrill Tuesday night as the featured performer at Chloé’s rollicking party at the Hotel de la Monnaie to celebrate its second Paris boutique. “I was born in the Eighties and his music’s from the Eighties and I love it,” gushed model Sasha Pivovarova, who boogied alongside designer Alber Elbaz and pop star Jarvis Cocker. “This is one of my favorites,” chirped model- turned-photographer Astrid Munoz, who kicked up her heels to “Don’t Stop the Dance.” Munoz just fi nished her fi rst self-portrait for French Vogue. Daphne Guinness, an old pal of the singer’s, raved about his stylish look. “He’s always had the coolest album covers,” she pronounced. Later, over postshow drinks, Ferry revealed he’s working on a new Roxy Music album to be released this year. “I’ve always been into clothes,” he added. “Maybe it comes from the fact that I worked in a tailor’s shop as a boy.”

Madonna at the Gaultier show. Below: The paparazzi frenzy surrounding her. PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY Clockswise from top left: Bryan Ferry performs; Lou Doillon; Chloé’s Yvan Mispelaere and Julie Gayet, and Sidney and Ralph Toledano. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DELPHINE ACHARD AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006

It’sGivenchy Givenchy OnlyGivenchy Nat

Givenchy

Givenchy: Another pretentious set up didn’t detract too much from Riccardo Tisci’s clothes, because, while his mise-en-scène — a cello player, models vamping in the middle of a crowded museum, faux lace makeup — was annoying enough, Tisci continues to fl aunt the kind of talent that keeps everyone coming back for more. His arch glamour was on display in every gallery and included both real-world possibilities and otherworldly fl ights of fancy. And, with its smart tailoring and strong shot of femininity, it all looked very Givenchy. A sleek black coat was shown over a stark white blouse with fl uted sleeves in stacked lace, in a nod to the house’s rich archives, while drama dresses included a long black gown bustling with lashes of ostrich and others cut in glistening ruby red. Of course, Tisci’s muse, model Maria Carla, landed the best dress of all, an impossibly voluminous white sculpted gown in silk satin named, appropriately enough, “Alba Maxima.”

Elie Saab: The aesthetics of Elie Saab’s world are crystal clear: Minimalism isn’t an option, ornamentation is de rigueur, and if a girl wants to be sexy she better be ready to fl aunt the goods. His couture offering for spring was built on those principles, with a fl urry of gowns that are sure to fi nd red-carpet takers. After all, the Beirut-based Saab cited Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot among his inspirations. That meant plenty of straight-ahead pizzazz: slinky bustier dresses embroidered with rhinestones or sequins, high-slit glamour- girl gowns and fl oaty Empire-waist organza confections. What about day? That’s really not Saab’s cup of tea — in fact, he didn’t even try, unless you call his fetching Charleston-style dress in silver and gold the kind of stuff a woman wears to lunch. Saab has a talent for decoration for sure, and a love for all that glitters, best exemplifi ed by a few draped gold or silver lamé creations that were among the show’s most brilliant. This season he also showed a touch more variety in his silhouettes, bringing

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND J.L. COULOMBEL GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY his style a small step forward. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 9 WWD.COM

There’s plenty to be said for following one’s own particular Keeping It Real inclinations, and that was the case with certain designers during the Franck Adeline spring shows. The results ranged Sorbier Andre from smartly tailored looks worthy of a storied house to evening dazzlers that will doubtless light up red carpets everywhere. atural Elie Saab

Dominique Maurizio Sirop Galante

PARIS — Couture’s ranks may be thinning, but a handful of smaller, independent designers con- tinue to ply their trade in the midst of the city’s haute giants. Client couture is their focus, meaning they strive to make real clothes for real clients. Dominique Sirop is an example, and this sea- son he offered the columnar dresses that are his specialty in a bustier variation. He juxta- posed satin and chiffon in twisted folds for ball- room confections in yellow, pink or chartreuse. Elie Saab Ruffl es spilled down the front of a brown silk bustier dress, while a colorful hand-painted number came with a mound of gathered chiffon perched on the shoulder. For day, Sirop’s slinky skirts, paired with stiff tailored jackets, pointed to his leanings for an older, no-nonsense style of couture. Franck Sorbier also tries to put the client fi rst. This season, he decorated his stage at the Lido like a rain forest. Vegetal and tropical ref- erences abounded in his quirky work, with a “fl ower” taffeta gown blooming with petals at the bust, and tops of cascading organza “petals.” His sculpted bustier evening gowns came in ex- plosions of bright colors. Sorbier was best when he kept it simple, as with curvaceous evening gowns in lace. While couture delights in precision of form, Adeline Andre went in a different direction with a multitude of fl uid, loose-fi tting dresses and suits in somber colors. Small incisions on the sides of jackets and dresses accentuated waists, while ribbons cinched balloon hems of dresses. Andre kept evening spare and simple in yellow chiffon or pleated beige silk. Meanwhile, Italian Maurizio Galante returned to the Paris couture scene after taking a break last July. He presented a graceful and feminine collection awash with intricate craftsmanship. Among the highlights were a series of white jack- ets with delicate fl oral embroidery in a multitude of colors, lavish patchwork lace dresses and oth- ers plumed with white feathers. Galante topped off the collection with a futuristic dress decorat- ed with three-dimensional mirrors. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, WWD.COM

no exception. Convened to fete her collaboration with photographer Bettina Rheims on her spring catalogue, guests included a smattering of her inner circle, from Betty Catroux to various members of the old Yves Saint Laurent gang — though Mr. Saint Laurent stayed Fashion Scoops home. Even her relationship with Rheims is close. “We’ve known each other for 30 years,” said Rheims. “It’s great working with people you know and trust.” CRYSTAL BALL: “I’m mad about A crystal crystals, they have a great energy. Jewelry by SOMETHING OLD: Martin Margiela is technically not a couturier. But he’s butting in on Paris’ I have bowls of them as decoration Philippe look by high fashion schedule with a presentation of his so-called artisanal collection of handmade all around the house,” said Eva Ferrandi. Shaun pieces. On display at the Belgian designer’s headquarters here are pieces born of Margiela’s Cavalli, wife of designer Roberto Leane. penchant for recycling throw-outs, from a dress stitched of sequined garments from the Cavalli. She was among those Eighties to blouses made of fake fl owers and a top pieced together from strands of vintage in the front row Wednesday costume jewelry. Other offerings include necklaces from garbage found on beaches, a vest when Swarovski invaded of fl attened bottle caps and a waistcoat of laminated playing cards. couture week with its “Runway Rocks” show featuring sparkly CLEMENTS RIBEIRO REGROUPS: Clements Ribeiro has passed on showing a fall ready-to- looks commissioned from 28 wear collection as the company continues to restructure. But Suzanne Clements and Inacio international accessory and ready- Ribeiro, who put their business into voluntary liquidation after a manufacturing crisis last to-wear designers. Participants summer, plan to present shoe and bag collections for the fall season. “It would have meant included Azzaro’s Vanessa Seward, too much juggling,” said Ribeiro, regarding a fall collection. “We’re showing our bags and Vivienne Becker, Antonio Berardi shoes, we’re still doing Cacharel and we’re in advanced talks with a potential investor.” As and Jean Paul Gaultier. Crowd- reported, Pier Srl, based near Venice, terminated its licensing deal with Clements Ribeiro dazzlers included Gaultier’s in August after one season. In September, the couple showed an abbreviated rtw collection crystal-embroidered fl oor-length and sold it to a small group of long-standing customers. Ribeiro said he expects to sign a dress, inspired by constellations, deal with a new partner over the next few months and resume business as usual. and Shaun Leane’s thorny creation that had a model entwined in silver branches, a red crystal orchid popping from her mouth. FILM BUFFS: Members of the Italian fi lm industry had an unlikely star surprise at an event at Salvatore Ferragamo’s Fifth Avenue fl agship last week: Woody Allen and Soon Yi Previn. DRIVE, HE SAID: How much do the French respect fashion? At least enough to give a pass on a The couple made a brief appearance at the Wednesday night fete honoring Salvatore potentially dangerous traffi c violation. When an editor en route to the Chanel show got stuck in Ferragamo’s fete for the Medusa Films’ 10th anniversary. After the cocktail hour, the crowd traffi c, her driver got out of the car to warn the stalled drivers behind him. He then backed out — which included Isabella Rossellini, Italian actor Stefano Accorsi (sans fi ancée, model into the wrong side of the two-way street and drove all the way down in reverse, ignoring dirty Laetitia Casta) and various industry members — headed over to MoMA for a screening of the looks along the way. When he fi nally turned the corner, a policeman on a motorcycle pulled 1998 fi lm “La Cena,” followed by dinner. “Ferragamo doesn’t believe in product placement, up, ready to write a ticket. “I’m sorry, offi cer,” the driver explained, “but I have an American but movies are still ingrained in the brand and have been since the beginning,” said Clarice journalist here who must get to the Chanel defi le.” “All right,” the cop responded. “Next time, Pecori Giraldi, worldwide communication director for Ferragamo.” Events like these are how mind the code.” we support the fi lm industry.”

BY THE DOZEN: SCHUMACHER MOVES: Most Italians associate the name Schumacher with a Formula One Balenciaga is on driver named Michael. Whimsical German brand Schumacher is out to change that, opening a commercial a Milan showroom next month, just before the women’s shows kick off. Mannheim-based roll — and its Schumacher is no stranger to the Milan shows — until now, it has presented its collections spring advertising at the Four Seasons — but the label is ready to move into its own space, on Via Senato, campaign is no right around the corner from the Via Della Spiga shopping strip. Schumacher will unveil its exception. The ads, fall/winter collection at its Düsseldorf showroom during trade show CPD, running Feb. 5-7. slated to break in March magazines, FAMILY AFFAIRS: It takes a lot more than cold, rainy nights to keep London’s party set still in are packed with January. So it’s no surprise the winter season was back in swing last week with the launch merchandise and of Fiat’s Grande Punto on Brick Lane, and the unveiling of the All Star Lanes upscale — for the very fi rst bowling alley, a decidedly posh take on a blue-collar icon. Guests at the Fiat party, including time — handbags. Francesca Versace, Matthew Williamson, Rocco Forte, Andy Wong, Piers Adam and Tamara Designer Nicolas Beckwith, mingled with Fiat managers in dark suits and de rigueur suntans. But while Ghesquière booked An image from the guests downed Prosecco wine and nibbled on spoonfuls of risotto Milanese, the big question 16 models for Balenciaga campaign. was: “Where’s Lapo?” Although the London tabloids had hotly anticipated the triumphant photographer David return of Lapo Elkann, wayward grandson of the late Gianni Agnelli, he never showed. “I Sims, who captured a good portion of the knockout collection. don’t think he ever planned on coming and submitting himself to the British press. Would you?” said one fashion industry source. Elkann recently has been treated for drug abuse BIG TIME: Onetime Richemont executive Mounir Moufarrige is getting back into the watch after an overdose left him in a coma last fall. He is in charge of Fiat’s brand promotion, and business. WWD has learned he is now president and a shareholder in U-Boat, an Italian has been working on rejuvenating the company’s image. maker of oversized timepieces designed by Italo Fontana. “I’ve been looking for something in Across town in Bloomsbury, Lady Annabel Goldsmith and her family were celebrating the the watch business that’s different,” Moufarrige said, showing off a chunky style also worn opening of All Star with such American food as burgers and crab cakes, fancy cocktails by the likes of David Beckham. He plans to introduce the brand to the jewelry trade at the such as pomegranate martinis and ultraplush interiors. “It’s an experiment, and we’re Basel watch fair in March. Meanwhile, Moufarrige still has his fi ngers in many other fashion offering the whole package: bowling and food and drinks that don’t come in a plastic cup,” pies, including Worth, Goyard and the up-and-coming Beirut couturier Zuhair Murad. said All Star’s founder, Mark von Westenholz, whose investors include brothers Zac and Ben Goldsmith. The evening belonged, however, to Momma Goldsmith, who couldn’t stop herself KIMONO CAPERS: It was easy to spot Kenzo Takada in the small crowd that gathered Tuesday from jumping up and down every time she knocked over the pins. night in Paris at Baccarat’s Crystal Room for a light seafood dinner prepared by the Japanese designer’s private chef. The formerly retired Takada, who has staged a comeback DISHING DIRT: Cynthia Rowley can be quite tongue-in-cheek, a point she is proving again over the last year or so, was the only one in a kimono. “I love dressing like this,” offered with her newest collection of dinnerware for specialty dish boutique Fishs Eddy. The Dirty Takada, who convened the party to fete his new crystal creations for the house of Baccarat, Dishes line of white plates, bowls, cups and saucers feature risqué watercolor motifs of including crystal candlesticks, vases engraved with Asian scenes and a sitting Buddha women lounging around suggestively, wearing little clothing except for tiny panties and statue. “All of the creations are inspired by Japan or Asia,” added Takada, who recently fl oral crowns. This is Rowley’s second dinnerware collection for Fishs Eddy, though her fi rst, launched a home decoration line of his own. called Fashion Plates, was arguably tamer. “I wanted to make dishes that are sexy, pretty and even more delicious than your dinner,” Rowley quipped about her new line. Priced from IN THE FAMILY: Chez Loulou de la Falaise, there’s always a whiff of family, or at least close $16 for a side plate to $22 for a dinner plate or serving bowl, the collection is expected to friendship, in the air. The cocktail party she hosted Tuesday in her Left Bank shop was hit Fishs Eddy and Cynthia Rowley boutiques by next month.

JeanJean PaulPaul Gaultier Christian Chanel Chanel Christian Gaultier Lacroix Lacroix Mane Christian Lacroix Attractions Think pretty — and we’re not just talking clothes. This season, it starts at the top with a beautifully embellished hairdo. At Chanel, Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier more than a smattering of charming bows, silk fl owers and glittering combs were nestled into eccentrically undone hair. Prettily mussed updos were wound round with glittering bands, and epic ribbon-tied braids reached Christian Rapunzel lengths. Talk about Lacroix

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY crowning glories. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 11 WWD.COM Denim Report A New Beat at Bread & Butter Barcelona

By Emilie Marsh features denim shirts and skirts made from Levi’s Levi’s vintage 501 jeans. BARCELONA — It’s time for denim to face the music — rock ’n’ roll, specifi cally, Engineered Exhibitors said Spanish and Italian buyers pro- with perhaps a pinch of pop. jeans. pelled business. Fall and winter styles inspired by a blend of these two music forms were a prom- At Levi’s Europe, the new fall introduction is its inent theme among exhibitors at the Bread & Butter trade show here last week, Engineered line of high-end denim for women and where new niche brands took a backseat to fresh offerings from reinvigorated men with sharp cuts and an unwashed fi nish. The denim giants. Guitar-based music replaced the thumping dance club beat that typi- company also unveiled a prototype jean that will ac- cally booms from the show’s speakers. commodate an iPod music player. The show was awash with skinny fi ts, from ultratight styles that evoked bands “Today, customers want individuality. They are tired from the Seventies and Eighties to variations with looser seats or cropped ankles. of the cookie-cutter approach and they are looking for Loose fi ts with slightly slimmer legs, clean washes, dark denim and higher-waist the handcrafted feel,” said Kenny Wilson, Levi’s senior lines will be the saving grace for those with shapes that don’t accommodate the vice president of European commercial operations. sprayed-on denim look. Wilson showed off the line’s hammered buttons “The message here is rock ’n’ roll,” said Sophie Dumont, a women’s buyer at and uneven stitching. Comfort is also key when it Citadium, the Paris retailer owned by retail and luxury giant PPR. comes to new directions in denim, Wilson said. For the second Spanish edition of Bread & Butter, which ended its three-day “Young professionals are working and traveling in run here Jan. 21, exhibitors and buyers said denim would remain a staple for next denim. They want more ergonomic forms,” he said, winter despite the dearth of new names. Visitors reported sales on the rise and said demonstrating the three-dimensional property of the they were increasing budgets by as much as 20 percent. Bread & Butter organizers Engineered line. “You can’t lay it fl at on the fl oor.” said 48,800 buyers visited, up 8.4 percent from At Denim Bird’s, the women’s line by Sweden’s the July session. Nudie jeans, even the tightest jeans have a stretch “Trends in fashion change, but everyone A look from factor to make them more wearable, said Palle will always have jeans in their closets,” said G-Star’s Sternberg, co-founder of the label, which plans to Citadium’s Dumont. Elwood 10 open its fi rst store in Amsterdam in July. Yet buyers agreed that niche premium brands line. Unwashed jeans were a direction at many booths, were much less of a presence. including at Italy’s Replay. A tag reading “worn not “Niche brands have had their heyday,” said washed” was added to Replay’s labels for next winter. Jack Jay, director of Los Angeles buying agency “Denim is getting cleaner and blues are less I.B.S. Corp., who noted he would increase his washed for a time-aged look that appeals budget by about 8 percent. to customers for its authentic approach to Jay predicted dark denim tones and stripes denim,” said Marco Bortoletti, managing would be popular next winter. Among brands director of Replay. offering those looks were London’s Firetrap, Bortoletti expects its new array of black which will launch a pinstripe denim collection denim, ranging from 139 euros to 159 euros, next winter. or $170 to $195, as well as cropped denim Denim giants overshadowed the new niche looks, to be next winter’s highlights. names at the show. G-Star, for example, unveiled Ecology-conscious denim was an un- its Elwood 10 jeans. The collection features raw derlining theme at the show. “Focus on denim, three-dimensional form and pockets the environment is more of a niche trend, sporting the number 96 in honor of the brand’s but it will gain importance in the next launch date. The collection will be available in fi ve years,” said Levi’s Wilson. Brands stores in July. like France’s Misericordia and the At Basel, Switzerland-based Edwin, a new Netherlands’ Kuyichi positioned them- premium denim line dubbed Roxury is a mé- selves among the pioneers of organic lange of luxury high-end denim with a touch of denim labels. rock. The line retails for between 109 euros and Meanwhile, Turkish denim brands 159 euros, or $133 to $195 at current exchange. were a growing category. “The major denim brands are all coming out “With the massive production forces with premium denim lines, many based on dark tones and raw denim that are well working behind us, it facilitates our re- fi nished,” said Miky Glupczynski, owner of Up & Wear, a high-end denim boutique lationship to the final product,” said in Brussels. Serdar Mazmanoglu, president of Mavi Glupczynski, who increased his budget by almost 20 percent, said he noticed a Jeans in Europe. plethora of brands offering embroidered pieces, studs and vintage denim. He said Mavi’s Mazmanoglu expects a style called the Vintage China, a Los Angeles denim brand that features novelty styles designed superslim Lindy, a low-rise, superslim number that in China with vintage denim, was an eye-catcher at the show. Glupczynski even Lindy jeans. retails for 80 to 100 euros, or $98 to $122, launched his own vintage denim brand at Bread & Butter, dubbed R:Cycle, which to be a hot pick next season.

A look from Elite by Blue Cult. Blue Cult Takes on Elite Status By Khanh T.L. Tran Brander said she plans to incorporate Elite’s tweeds in her shop in Santa Monica, Calif., where she carries all Ancami’s brands. LOS ANGELES — As new competitors crowd the premium “They are also doing a skinny cord pant and some tailored denim market, Blue Cult is sharpening its strategy by limiting blazers that are going to be important for us,” Brander said. distribution and introducing sportswear in a high-end offshoot While Athias acts as creative director on Elite, the designer behind brand, Elite by Blue Cult. the line is Susan Woo, a 17-year apparel industry veteran who began The line was unveiled at WWDMAGIC in August as an ex- her career as an assistant at Levi Strauss & Co. She then worked at tension of Blue Cult, featuring a basic lineup consisting of two Mark Ecko Collection before consulting with contemporary denim rises and two leg openings. For the Fashion Coterie show in lines such as Chip & Pepper. A fan of Levi’s and Wrangler jeans from New York and Project Las Vegas, both in February, Elite plans the Forties and Fifties, she hoped to spare women from having vintage to show 32 styles, including tweed trousers and riding jackets pants heavily altered to fi t their bodies. accented with leather buttons. The line will also be on hand for “I took the authenticity of those jeans and put a modern twist the Designers & Agents show in Los Angeles in March. to it,” Woo said. “We see it as a complete collection,” said Caroline Athias, co-found- Athias said that since Elite’s distribution will be limited to er of Blue Cult, which is owned by Bernon, Calif.-based Ancami. “The fewer than 150 specialty shops and better department stores in product is completely different from the existing Blue Cult.” the U.S. and other select international shops, fi rst-year whole- Elite will offer skirts, gauchos, culottes and blazers in addi- sale sales are expected to reach $5 million, representing less tion to fi ve-pocket jeans. The European and Japanese denim than 1 percent of Ancami’s total business. Wholesale prices are will be complemented by corduroy, stretch sateen and tweed. $95 for gauchos and culottes, $100 and higher for fi ve-pocket Athias said Elite might introduce knits in the second year. jeans and $175 for blazers. Ancami already produces knit tops through Blue Cult Knits Elite shipped to Colette in Paris this month and also is sold and three other denim brands, in addition to Blue Cult and at Fred Segal Fun, Madison, Intuition and Scout. Elite. But Elite represents the company’s attempt to produce Joey Grana, co-owner of Scout in Los Angeles, said he added sportswear with different fabrics, understated styling and bet- Elite to his denim stock of Hysteric Glamour, Grey Ant and ter tailoring under one label. It is also a strategy to distinguish Habitual for the past holiday season because the new brand had itself in the saturated denim category. a fl attering fi t for all body types. Grana said he plans to order Jackie Brander, owner of Fred Segal Fun, who began carry- Elite again for summer and fall after selling plenty of pairs of ing Elite last year, approves of the move. the cigarette pant that retails for $228 each. “I think it’s a wise decision that Elite has included different fab- “Susan has a really good aesthetic and her designs are pretty rics and designs in their fall collection,” Brander said in an e-mail. relevant in terms of an L.A. customer,” Grana said. BLUE CULT PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; LEVI’S BY MATTI HILLIG SARDELLA; MATTI LEVI’S BY DONATO PHOTO BY CULT BLUE 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 WWD.COM The Beat Saja Comes Into Focus

By Lauren DeCarlo extravagant ostrich leather couches. Saja’s “It’s clean and modern, but has NEW YORK — Saja is ready for its Victorian the warmth of the neighborhood,” closeup. baby doll she said. The Los Angeles-based contempo- dress. Saja, which means “lion” in rary collection has been quietly grow- Korean, a nod to Lee’s native land, ing into a $2.5 million business during retails in about 150 boutiques in the the past six years and now designer U.S., Indonesia, Japan and Hong and owner Yoo Lee is opening her fi rst Kong. For now, Lee is content with shop in NoLIta here. her boutique business. Welcome to My House in Florence. Lee has shifted the focus of the col- “We want to get into department lection to fl irty dresses made primarily stores, but as a smaller company, in silk chiffon that now make up about we have to be careful about charge- 60 percent of the collection. Once Lee backs,” she said. “Boutiques are the realized she was dressing a growing backbone of our business.” Streetwear Is number of bridesmaids who sought to After the stints at DKNY and wear her dresses post-wedding day, BCBG, Lee knew that if she stayed in she realized her designs fi lled a need Los Angeles she needed to design her for an underserved market. own collection. She couldn’t see her- “Our dresses are not so traditional self working for any of the casual con- In the House and are at a great price point,” Lee temporary brands based there and said. “Dresses were really big a few since her husband worked in the fi lm FLORENCE — Trade show organizer Pitti recruited years ago, then denim got so big. I industry, a move to New York wasn’t skateboarders, spray painters and break-dancers think women want to go back to some- an option. She started designing and to inaugurate the fi rst edition of its streetwear and thing more ladylike.” shipping merchandise out of her liv- denim fair, Welcome to My House. Saja is inspired mostly by the glam- ing room. She attended a designer Dozens of women’s and men’s collections seeking to our, sophistication and femininity of the casting call for Henri Bendel, where broaden their European distribution, including Ecko Twenties and Thirties. Detailing such one of her pieces was picked up. Unltd., Enyce, Tokidoki and Ezekiel, along with a few as French seams, silk linings and hand- “That was how we had our start,” emerging European players, displayed embroidered beading are important to Lee, who got she said. “They picked up a hand- denim, graphic-printed hoodies and funky boardshort her start working as an assistant to Farah beaded sequin top that took our s. Stazione Leopolda hosted Welcome to My House, Ebrahimi, design director of BCBG, sewer seven hours to sew.” which ran concurrently with the men’s event Pitti whom she later followed to DKNY. Soon after, she met Annette Immagine Uomo and ended its four-day run Jan. 14. Saja dresses wholesale for $100 to Breindel, founder of the Annett B. “I’ve never seen pure streetwear like this,” said $180. Mixed into the 60-piece collec- showroom here, where the careers of Umberto Alessandrini, an Italian distributor for tion are tops, wholesaling between Anna Sui and Rebecca Taylor were Los Angeles-based label Tokidoki, which just inked $80 and $160; skirts, $74 to $150, and launched. a production and distribution deal with Italian fi rm sweaters, $50 to $70. “Annette is one of the rarest peo- Fornari in a bid to expand internationally. Next month, Saja will open its fi rst ple I’ve ever met,” Lee said. “She Thirty-nine brands were at the fair, although not freestanding boutique on Elizabeth was very harsh and very critical, but all of these labels presented full-fl edged collections. Street in NoLIta. The 650-square-foot I learned it was better to hear criti- Some stands featured little more than a smattering space will house the entire collection. cisms than to have been patted on of products and promotional items like stickers. “Our clothes are vintage-driven the back. With her, you grow thick Livio Travasoni, sales and marketing director for and I wanted to have that feel in the skin and grow very humble.” Slam Jam, an Italian distributor for brands such as store,” Lee said. Lee eventually plans to have a Carhartt, Stussy, Paul Frank and Zoo York, thought To that effect, the store will blend show during New York Fashion Week. Welcome to My House could become viable if it tradition and modernity. White lacquer “Hopefully next year,” she added. “I’ll stays “underground” and doesn’t grow too big and fl oors are set off by pink wallpaper and GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY only do it when I’m good and ready.” too commercial. “This show serves a purpose. People need to un- derstand what streetwear is and that there’s a busi- ness behind it,” he said, noting that the Italian mar- Roslyn ket for street apparel and accessories is especially Plus Sizes With Style dress in fertile for growth, worth an estimated 500 million rayon and euros, or about $600 million. NEW YORK — Monif Clarke has been a what didn’t. Empire waists were fl at- Lycra. At Tokidoki’s stand, the brand’s signature size 18 ever since she can remember. tering, and so were A-line dresses and Japanese anime-style characters adorned a variety “I probably came out of the skirts in rich velvet fabrics. Fabrics of items, including shrunken Ts, a wide selection of womb as a size 18,” said Clarke, not- without stretch didn’t work. Fabrics vinyl toys, charms and jewelry and LeSportsac bags. ing that her quest for contemporary like silk and rayon jersey were forgiv- “A clothing retailer might traditionally just plus sizes has never been easy. “The ing. Darting on pants was crucial. take up the shirts and jeans, but we are pushing midmarket, plus-size level is just not “I want our plus-size girls to be the other items,” said Ivan Arnold, who created there. You can fi nd expensive plus- the ones everyone is looking at,” Tokidoki with his wife and Hard Candy Cosmetics size clothing and cheap clothing Clarke said. “I don’t want them to co-founder, Pooneh Mohajer. you’d want to throw away after one think they’re dowdy.” Brands like Ezekiel and Insight offered plenty of season, but nothing in the middle.” Clarke, the daughter of immi- other girly looks with a surfer infl uence. Ezekiel’s stand Clarke sought to fi x the problem grants from Barbados, isn’t shying featured a series of mix-and-match pieces like tight, by creating Monif C. Plus Sizes, a away from color, a characteristic bottom-baring shorts, fl oral skirts, track jackets and contemporary collection ranging that she said sets her apart from tops featuring eyelet lace trim. Australia-based Insight in size from 14 to 28. most plus-size designers. is hoping that its unusual color palette will convince Frustrated with the contempo- “I want to dispel the rule that beach babes to buy pistachio green cropped jeans, a rary category, two years ago Clarke plus-size women should wear black violet knit poncho or a melon-hued sweatshirt. started visiting trade shows like and dark colors,” she said. “I want Marc Ecko is trying to win over street-smart girls the Fashion Coterie in New York. to play with colors and textures.” and young women with his Ecko Red line, featuring She asked vendor after vendor if Key colors for the spring 2006 T-shirts bearing old school hip-hop imagery, baggy they offered plus sizes, but the re- collection include blue, orange, cargo pants, Eighties-style bomber jackets and sponse was always the same. lilac and mauve. pullovers in cotton piqué. The brand opened a free- “They looked at me like I had The wholesale price range o f the standing concept store in Milan late last year and it horns coming out of my head,” she Monif C. Plus Sizes collection is be- counts some 250 sales points throughout Italy. said. “Their collections stopped at a tween $53 for tops and $145 for dress- Serena Salvucci, Ecko Unltd.’s Italian market size 10. I couldn’t understand why peo- es. Skirts wholesale for $68 to $85. The fond of the brand, and streetwear in general, be- ple weren’t going beyond those sizes. I line is carried by 45 specialty stores, week from customers saying, ‘I’m cause “it’s a basic sort of uniform. It shows that you think designers want to create a line such as Vive La Femme in Chicago, so happy you’re here,’ ” said Clarke, are a part of a group.” without a lot of fuss, and to get a great Flaunt in Nashville and Bella Fuchsia adding that she hopes to expand For some prospective buyers, that repetitive sameness fi t in a great fabric, it’s not as simple in Cheshire, Conn. The collection is into different categories, including was precisely the problem at Welcome to My House. as upsizing a size 8 to a size 20.” also available online at monifc.com. lingerie and footwear. “I wear a size “I wanted to fi nd more of a new language here. Clarke, who has a bachelor’s de- Clarke expects the wholesale 11 shoe. I would love to do sexy foot- It seems like the same graphics are repeated,” said gree in math and computer science volume for 2006 to reach $250,000. wear for the underserved market.” Salvatore Melita, 29, who is looking to open a store in from Rutgers University, began taking “Our Web site has gained surpris- “People in this industry are Sicily with his business partner, Luigi Orofi no. “They continuing education classes at the ingly strong customers overseas,” recognizing that the contemporary aren’t risking with their projects. They are just going Fashion Institute of Technology and she said. “We’ve shipped directly plus-size market is here,” she con- with the safe approach to be commercial.” got to work on her fi rst collection for to customers in Australia, London, tinued. “The customer is here and The second edition of the fair will be held con- fall 2005. She immediately began to see Germany and Hawaii. is willing to spend the money.” currently with the next Pitti, June 21-24. what worked on a plus-size fi gure and “I get about 50 to 60 e-mails a — L.D. — Amanda Kaiser SHOW PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI SHOW PHOTO BY WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 13 WWD.COM Active Lifestyle Pumping Up Women’s at Super Show

By Georgia Lee If manufacturers keep fusing fashion and function, and the economy is on an up- ward swing, the industry should post similar gains for 2006, Cove said. The biggest ORLANDO, Fla. — Vendors at the 21st and fi nal edition of the Super Show highlighted challenge will be the fi ght for market share, which lends itself to further consolida- women’s sports and fi tness apparel as a star category in a sporting goods industry that tion. faces challenges of consolidation and intense competition. “All eyes are on the Reebok-Adidas merger and how that will play out,” Cove said, Women continue to be prime targets for athletic fi rms, along with Baby Boomers and adding that the big merger trend may have slowed, but smaller companies are highly the growing number of overweight Americans. The fusion of performance and fashion, valued, and open to activity, especially in the private equity market. led by companies such as Under Armour, has boosted sports and fi tness apparel sales, Hot markets include Baby Boomers, as evidenced by the rise in home fi tness which reached $44.6 billion at products and health club mem- retail last year, according to the Moving Under Armour has helped boost berships. There is also growth Sporting Goods Manufacturer Comfort had interest in athletic apparel. potential for product and mar- Association. strong sales keting for large-size customers. The challenge, said show par- Retail sales of licensed products this year. ticipants, lies in merchandising continue to grow, up 26 percent and marketing to women despite from 2001 to 2005, to $13 billion. the male-dominated mind-set Women fans are a prime tar- among big sporting goods retail- get for the National Basketball ers. The Super Show, sponsored Association’s nba4her collection, by the Washington-based SGMA, which launched team jerseys ended its three-day run here and new accessories, includ- Wednesday at the Orange County ing more novelty fashion jew- Convention Center. elry such as toe rings to attract With fewer than 450 exhibi- younger consumers. Available tors and a total attendance of in team colors and in pink and around 20,000 at this edition, the white, jerseys feature piping and show has declined considerably glitter print, with side panels for since its heyday 10 years ago, a contoured feminine fi t. when the event, held in Atlanta, Product, sales and marketing regularly drew around 100,000 has to be specifi c to women, said people, including top athletes Sal LaRocca, NBA senior vice for personal appearances. After president, global merchandising this fi nal edition, starting next group. year, the show will split into “You can’t just make men’s twice-yearly events, held in Las product smaller and sell it the Vegas and on the East Coast in same as men’s because women undetermined locations, to coin- buy differently,” LaRocca said. cide with buying seasons. “We’re developing shop concepts “During the huge growth pe- and point-of-sale materials, and riod for the sporting goods in- we’re trying to educate retailers, dustry during the Nineties, the who are used to doing business Super Show, with its huge ex- Reebok’s acquisition is being watched in a male-dominated industry.” hibits, made sense,” said SGMA closely in the industry. Here, Reebok- Moving Comfort, a division of president Tom Cove. “It was sponsored player Nicole Vaidisova. Russell Athletic, reported a sales great while it lasted. But now, in increase of 25 percent this year, a mature industry, companies are looking for more return on their investment.” based on an expanded product line that included more fashion details such as prints, Cove said smaller shows would target new retail channels, such as independent along with performance features such as moisture resistance. specialty stores, team sports, international buyers and categories beyond the big-box To broaden distribution beyond sporting goods chains, Moving Comfort is targeting more sporting goods retailers that were key to the Super Show. catalogues such as Title Nine and L.L. Bean, along with independent specialty retailers. At a state-of-the-industry speech Monday, Cove said wholesale sales of sports ap- Specialty retailer Gina Newbold-Crosby, owner of the Sporting Edge, a Kearney, parel and equipment were up 6.8 percent to $55.7 billion in 2005. Neb., sporting goods and apparel store, bought licensed product for women from Most encouraging is “the Under Armour Effect,” said Cove, referring to the success College Concepts and others at the show. of the popular line of men’s and women’s performancewear. “Under Armour is driving “I’m not happy that the Super Show is going away,” she noted. “I don’t like the idea people in stores, where they are paying full price.” of making it into two shows. There are too many shows already.” Op Opens New N.Y. Showroom SIDELINES Y-3 AT THE OLYMPICS: Yohji NEW YORK — Op threw an opening party at its Yamamoto is getting into the new showroom here earlier this month, a 6,000- Olympic spirit. Under a deal with square-foot space in the same building as its parent, the British Olympic Association, Warnaco Group. the designer will outfi t all U.K. Among those mingling in the crowd was Gary athletes in the opening ceremony Hunt, Op’s president of apparel, who will oversee the in customized looks from his Y-3 design and sales of Op swimwear and sportswear in line produced in collaboration with the U.S. His is a new position at the company. Adidas. The male athletes will wear “We are transitioning from a licensing knit hooded sweat shorts, wool model to an in-house model and reposi- coats and baggy trousers, while tioning the brand a little higher,” said women’s attire includes cashmere Hunt, who has held executive positions cardigans, long coats and cigarette at Driven Concepts, Pacifi c Sunwear, pants. Both will wear matching Y-3 is outfi tting Pepe Jeans and Globe International. cashmere and wool accessories. British Olympians. “We are becoming a lifestyle brand in the better market. It’s an exciting time ADIDAS’ NEW EXEC: Industry veteran Rich Kerpsack has for the company.” been named vice president of national sales at Adidas Among other executives on hand America, a new position. Kerpsack has spent the last were Op president Dick Baker; Stanley Gary Hunt, Op’s new 15 years at Wilson Sporting Goods where he was most Silverstein, Warnaco’s executive vice president of apparel. recently vice president of U.S. sales and marketing for president of corporate development; the golf and racquet sport division. He reports to Ross Frank Tworecke, president of sportswear at Hopcus, senior vice president of sales at Adidas America. Warnaco, and Sun Choe, Op’s vice president of merchandising and design. SHAREHOLDERS APPROVE DEAL: In a special meeting The showroom has wood decor, bright colors and Wednesday, Reebok International shareholders approved beachy touches, such as coral reefs and strategically the company’s takeover bid by Adidas-Salomon AG for placed surfboards to convey Op’s brand image. It houses $59 a share. The vote was the last hurdle for the $3.8 a range of Op’s products, including swimwear and ap- billion transaction, which is expected to be closed on parel, and there are separate rooms for women’s and Tuesday. Reebok said in a statement that more than 98 men’s products. The company makes apparel and swim- percent of the votes were cast in favor of the deal. In a wear in-house, but some categories, such as accessories related development, Adidas on Wednesday said it had and children’s products, are produced under license. closed a $1 billion private placement transaction that The women’s area in the new Op showroom.

— Melanie Kletter KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY will be used to help fi nance the Reebok acquisition. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 WWD.COM Next Step: Claiborne’s Succession Challenge

By Julee Greenberg and Evan Clark packaged-goods industry,” said Black. “Liz is a different company today than it was when Paul joined.” NEW YORK — Paul Charron will be a tough act to follow and his successor needs to Charron has empowered his executives to make their own decisions, said Black, have the industry acumen to continue to steer Liz Claiborne Inc. on an aggressive noting his successor will have to continue that management model. Often a change in expansion path. leadership at a company piques the interest of suitors, but Black said she was unsure A day after Charron said he would retire as chairman and chief executive offi cer if anyone would make such a move. of the $4.6 billion apparel conglomerate at the end of the year, analysts and industry “I think it’s possible and I think it’s an interesting thought from the perspective of executives on Wednesday praised his vision and leadership skills, and said his depar- what the department store industry has done and it would give them a taste of their ture leaves Claiborne somewhat vulnerable. own medicine,” she added. Some said that with the promotion of Trudy Sullivan to president of the com- Vendors have been challenged lately by ever-growing department store chains ris- pany, Claiborne could be preparing her to take the helm. Charron said that while ing out of a series of mergers, such as Federated Department Stores’ buyout of long- the company will not rule anyone out, there will be various people considered time rival May Department Stores. for the job. Consultant Emanuel Weintraub said he believes that when Claiborne looks for a “Trudy is an extremely talented executive and we look forward to an even greater successor to Charron, it needs to fi nd someone with clear knowledge of the apparel contribution from her as president,” Charron said in an interview Wednesday. industry, as well as talents beyond. “With respect to the ceo position and consistent with good corporate governance “Paul will be a very hard act to follow,” Weintraub said. “He is very focused and practices, the board will be looking at qualifi ed internal and external candidates has a clear vision on multiple levels. I think that the successor will have to have a with proven leadership skills from both inside and outside the company. Beyond that, vision of Liz in the global consumer marketplace, since that is where the growth in we’re not going to speculate,” Charron said. apparel is.” Analysts wondered if Charron’s departure would make a merger or takeover of Weintraub said Claiborne has major growth opportunity overseas and Charron’s Claiborne more attractive. replacement should be capable of taking them there. However, there should be few short-term effects on the company, given that As far as a recommendation for a replacement, Weintraub said he sees Roger Charron plans to stay on board for the rest of the year, said J.P. Morgan Chase analyst Farah, chief operating offi cer at Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., as a good possibility. Robert Samuels. “With his experience, Roger would be a very good pick,” he said. “I think he can “I expect them to continue with their diversifi cation strategy and to continue with understand that the mother lode is in the U.S., but the growth area is there interna- this push into specialty retail that they’ve been really doing a good job with over the tionally.” past few years,” Samuels said. Catherine Sadler, president of the Catherine Sadler Group of brand consultants, Claiborne has expanded its specialty retail footprint in recent years, with new said she agrees that Farah would be an “exciting candidate” to take the reins at stores under several brands, including Sigrid Olsen and Mexx. It also continues its Claiborne, but also believes Charron will be hard to replace. talks with J. Jill about a possible acquisition of that retailer. Charron’s departure will “The thing about Paul Charron is that he is an extraordinary individual,” Sadler be eased by what Samuels described as a “pretty talented bench” of executives. said. “He has that perfect mix of being a great business manager with a true under- “The promotion of Trudy Sullivan to president obviously puts her in position to be standing of the need for marketing and the essence of branding. Those are going to be one who will be seriously considered for the top spot,” he said. “I do think that they’ll hard skills to replace.” fi rst look internally.” Denise Seegal, president and ceo at VF Sportswear, had the opportunity to work A replacement from the consumer products sector is also a possibility, given with Charron at Claiborne for four years when she joined as president in 1996. Charron’s background as a Procter & Gamble executive. But Charron gained apparel “Paul Charron is a dynamic leader who had the vision to transform Liz Claiborne industry experience at VF Corp. before joining Claiborne. Inc. into a diversifi ed portfolio of brands that addressed consumer needs across many Whoever ultimately steps up to take Charron’s place will have “gargantuan shoes” channels of distribution,” she said. to fi ll, said analyst Jennifer Black, president of Jennifer Black & Associates. “He developed the strategy, surrounded himself with very talented executives and “They need somebody who knows all aspects of the business, and I guess I then through consistent, strong execution, delivered value to his shareholders year would fi nd it unlikely that they would pick another person, for example, from the after year.”

“Ult imate Sh oe Sale” Iman N.Y. & Co.’s New Face – Fox News 2005 LAST CALL! NEW YORK — Continuing its effort to show off famous faces wearing the season’s hottest looks, New York & Co. has named model Iman as its spring 2006 face. SHOE-INN The women’s specialty retailer with more than 500 stores nationwide chose “Des- WAREHOUSE perate Housewives” star Eva Longoria for its holiday cam- 10,000 PAIR OF OUR paign. After the success of CURRENT FOOTWEAR! ISEISE DAILY DAILY ! that campaign, the company SALE NEWNEW MERCHAND MER CHAND selected Iman to represent the spring collection. The print Marc Jacobs • Stuart Weitzman • Robert Clergerie • Pollini • Via Spiga ads will hit the March issues Donald J. Pliner • Beverly Feldman • DKNY • Ralph Lauren • Zalo • Pajar of Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan, Anne Klein • Cynthia Rowley • Lacoste • Michael Kors • Miss Sixty •J Lo Glamour, Oprah, People, BCBG • Burberry • André Assous • Acquatilla • Kate Spade • Moschino Redbook, Self and Shop Etc. Marc • Uggs • Fieramosca • Delman • Bogner • Bernardo • Frye “It’s really funny what hap- Sigerson Morrison • Steve Madden • Charles David • Puma • Converse pens when a customer relates Geox • Boccaccini • Emu • Kors • New Balance • Kenzo • Petra to Eva when they see her face in the stores,” said Robert Luzzi, Lily Pulitzer • Luchese • Sperry • Charlie 1 Horse • Technica vice president of creative and marketing for New York & Co. New Balance • Emilio Pucci • Calvin Klein • Castener • Hush Puppies “We had women come in, see the photographs and literally pur- Minnetonka • Guess • D&G • PLUS weatherproof boots & our chase exactly what she is wearing, right down to the accesso- European Designers! ries. They see the complete package right in front of them, they like what they see, and it’s easy for them to buy the look as they ALL SHOES $19 - $49 see it.” Luzzi said he decided to hire Iman after seeing her at an in- ALL BOOTIES & BOOTS $39 - $99 dustry event. He knew that while Iman was a beautiful woman, she was also a bit older than New York & Co.’s target customer, which now ranges from 25 to 45. Iman is 50 years old. MON JAN 30 – THURS FEB 2 “I came back to the offi ce and asked all the young girls here what they thought of Iman,” Luzzi explained. “And I got 4 DAYS responses like ‘she’s a beauty icon’ and ‘she’s ageless.’ That’s GOTHAM HALL ONLY! when I realized that age isn’t really an issue, it’s not about age, 1356 BROADWAY it’s about aspiration.” Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, who also shot CORNER OF BROADWAY & 36TH STREET Longoria for the $1 billion retailer, Iman’s makeup was done NEW 9AM - 7PM by Sam Fine, hair by Oscar James and styling by Freddie Leiba. The company declined to reveal the ad budget. Luzzi said he LOCATION! AMEX • VISA • MC (No Checks!) hopes the Iman ads, which feature her in a white pinstriped FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL: 877 - SHOE-INN pantsuit, will generate the same buzz as Longoria’s did. He is already searching for the next famous face for the fall ads. LIVINGSTON (MARCH 2006) “It’s all about fi nding the right person at the right time,” he EAST HAMPTON • EDGEWATER • ENGLEWOOD • PALM BEACH said. “I’m not going to have a celebrity for the sake of having a SCARSDALE • WESTPORT • WESTWOOD • WESTHAMPTON BEACH celebrity in the ads. It has to be right.” — J.G. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 200615 WWD.COM IFF Net Plunges 63% in Quarter

By Meredith Derby the responsible thing to do is to continue products and strong economic conditions, the that we are going to be able to continue the to press for price increases, and it is our company said. momentum in 2006.” NEW YORK — International Flavors & job to be able to effectively explain to our In full-year 2005, the company had net However, Goldstein, who will retire his Fragrances Inc. posted fourth-quarter earn- customers the basis for the need. And so earnings, including a tax benefi t, of $193.1 roles during the fi rm’s May shareholders’ ings that dropped by nearly two-thirds, hurt far I am pleased to say that we have found million, or $2.04, compared with $196.1 meeting after six years at IFF, acknowl- by charges related to the company’s recent- levels of receptivity.” million, or $2.05, a year ago. Net sales were edged the company needs to improve its ly announced elimination of 300 positions. By region, fragrance and flavor sales $1.99 billion, down 2 percent. fi nancial performance. “We must do more,” IFF reported on Wednesday that fourth- declined in North Despite the quar- he said in the statement, citing the compa- quarter net earnings were down 63 percent America and ter’s lower-than- ny’s restructuring efforts announced this to $15.2 million, or 16 cents a diluted share. Europe, and in- expected results, month that are expected to “reduce costs The results included an after-tax charge creased in Asia BEAUTY BEAT Goldstein remained and improve IFF’s overall profi tability.” of 17 cents related to IFF’s elimination of Pacific. Fragrance optimistic. He said Reorganization-related charges are 300 jobs — 6 percent of its total workforce sales were driven by results in Greater in a statement that in the full year, local cur- expected to total $25 million to $30 mil- — in the company’s European and North China, Indonesia and Vietnam, and offset rency sales to the fi rm’s fi ve largest custom- lion. Annual savings are seen at $16 mil- American regions. Comparatively, IFF had by weak sales in Japan and Australia. In ers rose over 5 percent on top of 7 percent lion to $18 million. net earnings of $40.9 million, or 43 cents, in Latin America, fl avor sales were strongest growth in 2004. He also noted on the confer- IFF guided earnings-per-share for fi s- last year’s fourth quarter. in Mexico and Brazil. And in India, solid fra- ence call, “We had truly an outstanding year cal 2006 to $2.23 to $2.31, which is within Excluding restructuring and other charg- grance and fl avor sales were driven by new in fi ne fragrance in 2005, and we are hopeful range of analysts’ $2.28 estimate. es, the company earned $31.1 mil- lion, or 33 cents, in the most recent fourth quarter, which missed ana- lysts’ estimates of 43 cents. On that basis, IFF earned $43.6 million, or 46 cents, last year. Total fourth-quarter sales were down 1.4 percent at $461.7 mil- lion. By division, fi ne fragrance sales rose 12 percent in reported dollars and were up 16 percent in local currencies, while total fra- grances, which include fi ne fra- grance, chemical fragrance and chemicals, were down 2 percent on a reported basis and up 1 per- cent in local currencies. Flavor sales fell 1 percent in reported dollars, but rose 1 per- cent in local currencies. IFF said fl avor sales, particularly in North America and Europe, were nega- A NEW SHOW tively affected by lower selling prices for naturals, mainly vanilla. FOR A NEW SEASON Richard A. Goldstein, chair- SUMMER/FALL PREVIEW man and chief executive offi cer of FEBRUARY 4–7, 2006 IFF, based here, said on a confer- ence call with analysts, “We con- tinue to believe that we are going RUNNING CONCURRENTLY WITH to have some measure of success THE CHICAGO MEN’S WEAR COLLECTIVE,™ with respect to our customers accepting and recognizing raw FEBRUARY 5–7, 2006 material increases. We believe THE MERCHANDISE MART, Renfrew Named CHICAGO Best & Co. CEO NEW YORK — Gregg Renfrew has been named to the new post of president and chief executive offi cer of Best & Co., a children’s wear operation. NOW, STYLEMAX WILL RUN FOUR TIMES A In this role, Renfrew will be YEAR–BRINGING YOU WHAT’S HOT, partnering with Susie Hilfi ger, WHAT’S HAPPENING AND WHAT’S NEW founder and chairman of the IN THE MARKETPLACE. company. Hilfi ger now will focus her attention on design for the Best & Co. label and overall FOUR SHOWS. FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO creative direction for the stores REGISTER TO ATTEND STYLEMAX, VISIT OUR and other business channels. WEB SITE OR CALL 800.677.6278. Renfrew will be responsible for all day-to-day operations of the PHOTOGRAPH SKREBNESKI ONE FASHION FOR DISCOUNTED HOTEL AND AIRLINE privately held fi rm, including RATES, LOG ON TO OUR WEB SITE OR retail, e-commerce, marketing, DESTINATION. CALL MART TRAVEL SERVICES AT operations and new business. 800.528.8700. Most recently, Renfrew owned and operated her own retail consulting group, Love It LLC, CHOOSE STYLEMAX working with media and fashion THIS FEBRUARY. WWW.MERCHANDISEMART.COM companies. Before that, she was founder and ceo of The Wedding List, a multichannel wedding gift and registry company that was sold to Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia in 2001. Best & Co., reestablished by Hilfi ger in 1997, produces a cloth- ing collection under the Best & Co. label designed by Hilfiger, and operates two retail stores, in- cluding a fl agship in Greenwich, Conn., and a boutique in Berg- dorf Goodman. The company also operates a Web site. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006 WWD.COM

As cities around the world prepare for their respective fashion weeks, New York- based Luxury Institute decided to examine wealthy consumers’ experiences with TheWWDList fashion brands. In its Luxury Customer Experience Index — billed as the fi rst study of its kind — the company asked its respondents which fashion designer brands they purchased in the past 18 months, among a series of other questions. “Part of the trick for a luxury brand is to grow stores and product lines — but not break the brand’s image with that growth,” said Milton Pedraza, its chief executive offi cer. The fi rm surveyed more than 1,000 female consumers, who averaged 45 years old, with an average annual household income of $681,000. The company Ladies of Fashion also provided WWD with actual insight and comments from the luxury consumers. Top fashion brands most often purchased by wealthy female consumers. — Cecily Hall and Emily Kaiser

POLO RALPH LAUREN Percentage of women who say they purchased an item from this designer over the past 18 months: 40.8 “People know this brand,” said Milton Pedraza of the Luxury Institute. “They’ve done a great job of expanding themselves and reaching out to more consumers.” The Ricky bag, seen to the left in a spring ad campaign shot, is an example of the company’s strategy to expand its luxury accessories collection this year. For the three months ended Oct. 1, Polo Ralph Lauren reported total revenues of $1.03 billion, up 15 percent from $895.6 million 1 compared with the same period the year prior. The company attributed strong results to a turnaround in men’s wear sales, a strengthening in the women’s business in the Black Label and Collection lines, along with stellar performance from Ralph Lauren Media’s Web site, polo.com.

COACH Percentage: 38.9 “This is an upscale brand that is so good with customer experience,” Pedraza said. “They’re constantly in dialogue with their customers, and the products are upscale, yet affordable.” The New York-based company reported on Tuesday that revenues in the three months ended Dec. 31 jumped 22.2 percent to $650.3 million from $531.8 million last year. In November, Coach unveiled its Rodeo Drive fl agship: Modern and light-fi lled, the 3,365- 2 square-foot door refl ects Coach’s new direction, which is being applied to all of its 248 doors in North America. The Rodeo door is the company’s fourth in the Los Angeles area. The $1.7 billion accessories fi rm also unveiled the redesign of its New York fl agship in November. The store, at 10,000 square feet, is the company’s largest — all the better to promote the Coach lifestyle. “The brand never goes out of style,” said one respondent to the survey. CALVIN KLEIN Percentage: 30.3 In November, Phillips-Van Heusen, Calvin Klein’s parent company, posted third-quarter results that beat Wall Street’s consensus estimate. Mark Weber, chief executive offi cer, said the Calvin Klein licensing business continues to be a key driver in the growth of the company. “The reality of this brand is that, though it might be more mainstream than others, wealthy consumers know this and will continue to buy the products,” Pedraza said. 3 For spring, the brand has chosen to turn up the heat once again with some sizzling black-and-white underwear ads. Model Natalia Vodianova, who has been the face of Calvin Klein since spring 2003, is featured alongside Swedish hunk Freddie Ljungberg, who has been the exclusive model for Calvin Klein Underwear since fall 2003 and is a midfi elder for the Arsenal FC soccer club in the English Premier League. BURBERRY Percentage: 17.3 “Burberry has expanded its classic colors and shapes, while maintaining a luxurious brand persona,” Pedraza said. In January, Burberry Group plc announced retail sales increased 21 percent to $201.2 million, from $177.3 million, in the third quarter ended Dec. 31. During the period, retail sales accounted for 68 percent of total revenue. WWD reported that Burberry ceo Rose Marie Bravo, who will step down in July, said that “core 4 outerwear,” “reinvigorated classics” and a strong start to the spring season were key to driving the business in the period. Top sellers were shorter trenchcoats, quilted jacket styles and duffl e coats in shades of baby pink and blue. The Haymarket handbag also helped propel sales. One respondent described the brand as “timeless and durable,” while another pointed out that “the products, quality and service are consistently high.” LOUIS VUITTON Percentage: 12 The popularity of this brand continues to soar: AOL reported in December that Louis Vuitton maintained its number-one rank as the name drawing the most inquiries last year. Also for 2005, revenues for LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s fi scal year rose 11.4 percent to a record $17.32 billion. The fourth quarter revealed “exceptionally strong” sales of Louis Vuitton leather goods, Tag Heuer watches and fi ne champagnes. “We are fairly optimistic for 2006; 5 our markets are showing no signs of slowing down,” fi nance director Jean-Jacques Guiony said during a conference call in December. Louis Vuitton’s spring advertising campaign features supermodel Gisele Bündchen (seen to the left). Photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott at a private home in Ibiza, the images are colorful and graphic. Designer Marc Jacobs had wanted a “glossy, summery” feel to the images after a fall season of dark and sober clothes. CHANEL Percentage: 11.8 When Coco Chanel herself said, “Luxury is something you can do without, but don’t,” she had perfectly described her customer. That customer has stretched from the Ladies Who Lunch to the young and trendy who share an addiction for luxury goods and whatever Karl Lagerfeld has planned for the next season. The brand also carries a devoted following: One consumer surveyed commented, “I have been pleased with this brand for years.” 6 The designer’s current advertising campaign has tapped young starlet Selma Blair as the new face of Chanel Vision (seen in the advertisement to the left). The elegant and sophisticated customer also can still connect with Nicole Kidman, who appeared in the recently relaunched commercial for Chanel No.5 perfume, the most expensive minute-for-minute fi lm in history at the cost of 18 million pounds, or $32.1 million at current exchange. PRADA Percentage: 11.7 While many designers are returning to minimalism, Miuccia Prada never left. This exclusive brand has appealed to women with a more intellectual and mature style ever since it entered the luxury market in 1979. The Italian luxury goods fi rm is projecting its profi ts will grow by an average of 23.5 percent a year over the next fi ve years, while its sales will increase by an average of 3.2 percent annually, reaching $1.83 billion by 2010, 7 according to a document Prada issued to bankers last summer and released to WWD in October. The growth will come from increased focus on the core brands of Prada and Miu Miu, as well as labels such as Azzedine Alaïa and Car Shoe. The $40 million fl agship in SoHo has been closed this week because of a fi ve-alarm fi re on Saturday night in its building. GUCCI Percentage: 10.6 The dark and erotic era of Tom Ford has ended at Gucci with the appointment of new creative director Frida Giannini. The overtly steamy and sexy look that defi ned the Gucci girl has been replaced with the fresh arrival of colorful prints and Seventies-style dresses. WWD reported in December 8 that this optimistic nostalgia defi nes the new advertising campaign for spring 2006. Art director Doug Lloyd said, “We worked to refl ect the new direction that Frida has set with her clothing and accessories. It is younger, fresher, while still the confi dent sexy Gucci girl you know.”

ARMANI Percentage: 8.8 Giorgio Armani, the everlasting favorite of celebrities such as Michelle Pfeiffer and Jodie Foster, portrays his timeless designs and brand name with his 2006 advertising campaign. WWD reported this month that the exclusive designer will be concentrating on advertising in fewer, more mainstream magazines. The company, which has experienced incredible success in the men’s fragrance market, plans to introduce Code for 9 Women perfume this year for the “sophisticated, straightforward woman.” It will be backed by a $5 million ad campaign that will break in the April issues of 20 magazines.

FERRAGAMO Percentage: 7.4 Salvatore Ferragamo, known as the “shoemaker of the stars,” recently was awarded his own star on Rodeo Drive. One woman surveyed said the brand had “great designs and lasting quality.” The company’s latest ad campaign, shot in black and white, depicts the luxurious lifestyle of the target consumer. Dana Gers, vice president of marketing, said, “The look and feel is distinctive, accessories have been highlighted in color for a clean, contemporary look. It’s still 10 Ferragamo essence, but the creative is different from what we’ve done in the past.” WWD reported on Wednesday that Salvatore Ferragamo Group posted a 12 percent jump in 2005 sales and forecast double-digit growth for 2006, citing strong momentum in the U.S. and Asia. Sales rose 12 percent to $718.8 million at average exchange rates — those results exclude the 2004 and 2005 sales at Emanuel Ungaro, which Ferragamo sold last year.

SOURCE: LUXURY CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE INDICES: PURCHASE INCIDENCE, FROM LUXURY INSTITUTE LLC WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 200617 WWD.COM A Splash of Femininity at ASR Show By Khanh T.L. Tran chored by somber navy and gray. Ezekiel showed a “We haven’t bought red in a couple of years,” said SAN DIEGO — The boardsports industry has evolved summer outfi t with Pamela Bennett, women’s buyer for Hansen Surfboards into a multibillion-dollar global market, but the 25-year- a fall bag at ASR. in Encinitas, Calif. old Action Sports Retailer show that ended here Sunday For summer, makers also introduced swimwear at showed the sector still has growing pains. ASR. While industry leaders Billabong, Roxy and O’Neill Body Glove showed women’s bikinis and one-piece emphasized summer collections during the three-day suits made of a proprietary nylon-spandex fabric that is event at the San Diego Convention Center, Gallaz and specially treated to repel water and dry faster. Shipping Nikita Clothing, which also launched outerwear for in April, swimwear featuring the so-called Vapor mate- snowboarders, showed primarily fall. Gallaz didn’t have rial wholesales from $32.50 to $45, or 10 percent more summer but it did have spring for retailers to place re- than Body Glove’s swimsuits produced of conventional orders. nylon and spandex. Covering summer as well as fall, however, were Even for vendors, straddling the summer and fall col- Volcom, Rip Curl, Body Glove, Hurley International, lections was tricky. January represented the end of sum- Ezekiel, Split Juniors and Op. mer orders but a hasty start for fall business. The mish-mash of seasons frustrated a contingency “It’s a little early for people,” said Deanna Jackson, of buyers for Pacifi c Sunwear of California Inc.’s junior Roxy’s senior vice president of sales. Roxy said it had department, who said the Anaheim, Calif.-based youth previewed its fall line at New York’s market this month retailer already fi nished placing orders for summer and will show it again in Las Vegas at WWDMAGIC, clothing but came to ASR to check out fall products. which starts Feb. 21. Yet other retailers were interested in summer. Headquartered in Australia and with U.S. offi ces in Hannah Mattos, manager of Booboo’s Boardshop in Irvine, Calif., Billabong opts to work closer to season Hanford, Calif., said she came for capris, long shorts and took orders at ASR for summer, with deliveries and denim. Located 200 miles north of Los Angeles, starting Feb. 15. Mandy Robinson, design director for Booboo’s can sell warm-weather items through late Billabong’s junior business said sales representatives October because of the Indian summer, Mattos said. will hit the road next month to show its fall collection. Nicole Meyers, a buyer for Ron Jon Surf Shop in In fact, many vendors echo Jenny De La Pena, wom- Cocoa Beach, Fla., buying mainly for summer, focused en’s apparel sales manager for Oakley in Foothill Ranch, on dresses and microshorts with 1- to 2-inch inseams. Calif., who see ASR’s January event as an opportunity to Compared with last year, “skirts have run their course market the brand and meet buyers. “We don’t do a whole and people are looking for something new,” she said. lot of writing orders here,” she said. No matter which season was the focus, it was clear Manufacturers showing fall presented men’s wear-in- junior brands exhibiting at ASR are increasingly in- spired oversized vests and plaid trousers, black denim, fl uenced by fashion trends outside the boardsports stripes and layering lightweight knits. Irvine-based Split market, with Marc Jacobs’ signature style cited most designed its fall collection around the boot, which can often. Among the directional trends are dark-washed be paired with its shorts, dresses and trousers. skinny jeans, baby-doll dresses and georgette and crepe As always, denim is a staple. “Denim is such Victorian silhouettes. a huge part of the junior market,” said Christie Fish, Many companies believe their strong sales are Body Glove’s national sales manager. Op introduced based on offering more on-point fashion trends. “Now, denim, including wide-leg pants with a 9.5-inch rise it’s about the dress or it’s about the short,” said Dana and lambchop pockets, in its premium label called Op Dartez, vice president of design at Roxy, the $400 mil- Classic. Now owned by Warnaco Group, Op wants to im- lion sister brand for board sports giant Quiksilver Inc., prove its offerings and reputation for fall. “Op has al- in Huntington Beach, Calif. streetwear elements helps reach a wider audience. ways had a stigma of being a spring-summer resource,” “The young customer hasn’t had a dress wardrobe Sand-n-Steel forecast that Surf Diva apparel sales will said Michelle Neils, sales representative for the Irvine- ever in her life,” said Holly Sharp, creative director of reach $3.5 million at wholesale in the fi rst year. based surf brand. Costa Mesa, Calif.-based Lucy Love, where dresses ac- Other companies are eyeing growth in the women’s ASR wasn’t the only show in town this weekend. count for as much as 40 percent of the line. business. About a mile away at the San Diego Concourse, The demand for girlish styling in a guy’s world ben- Reef founder Fernando Aguerre reiterated that his Agenda ran Jan. 20-21. The three-year-old maverick efi ted Frenzii, a four-year-old jersey dress line exhibit- company aims to launch a women’s apparel line in 2008, trade expo bills itself as an alternative to the more es- ing at ASR for the fi rst time. if not sooner. tablished vendors at ASR, although companies such as For sure, customers of the action sports market don’t And Rip Curl hired Rosella Giuliani, an executive Adidas are among some 125 exhibiting brands showing want to wear Ts, boardshorts and bikinis all the time. from Banana Republic’s Japan unit, in December for at Agenda. “We don’t live at the beach all day,” said Coco Tihanyi, the newly created position of president of its women’s Retailer Pam Leelayuwapan found a seersucker an owner of the Surf Diva women’s surfi ng camp in La brand, which makes up 40 percent of Rip Curl’s sales. jacket with three-quarter-length sleeves from Nick & Jolla, Calif., who expanded into apparel this spring Starting on Wednesday, Giuliani will manage a business Mo for her two-month-old online store called The Bus through a license with New York’s Sand-n-Steel Apparel that is projected to grow 20 percent in the fi scal year Stop Shop, based in Santa Monica, Calif. Group LLC. A fan of street brands like Triple Five Soul, ending July 31, and to double in the following year. “I’m trying to stay with new and emerging lines,” Tihanyi said infusing Surf Diva’s clothing line with Another key trend emerging is a bloody-red tint an- Leelayuwapan said.

Volcom’s Hurley Volcom’s fall line was International’s fall line was inspired by booth at ASR. inspired by Marc Jacobs’ Marc Jacobs’ designs. designs.

Roxy designer Dana Dartez styles two looks from the surf brand’s summer collection. PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY 18 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26, 2006

DESIGNER Production Asst Tech Design Prod Asst Leading Missy Career Sportswear Fast-Growing Missy/Contemporary Company located in New York City is Knit-House Seeks: Issue initial size specs,measure seeking individual with 2-3 years garments,issue fit comments/ highly organized and detailed oriented experience. Applicant must have individual. Duties incl: heavy order updates, communicate with knowledge of domestic and foreign entry, shipping, follow up, communi- DESIGNER overseas office. Illustrator, Excel fabric market, proficient at illustrator, cation w/ factories. Min 2 yrs exp. Sales Account International Luxury Handbag communicate with overseas factories Great Co. atmosphere! Great benefits! & Word a must. E-mail: and develop spec sheets. Competitive Executive and Accessories Brand with [email protected] salary and benefits. Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 100 stores seeks New York Fax resumes to: 212 768 3588 Established luxury handbag attention: Joseph Production Coordinator based Head Designer with focus Mid-town apparel Co. seeks Production company seeks experi- on contemporary market. CHILDREN’S DESIGNER - MEN’S Coordinator. Must have strong follow enced, positive, pro-active Should be able to spot fashion UPSCALE RESORT up & communication skills, be detail sales executive to join team. COMPUTER [email protected] oriented, & organized. Previous expe- trends. Please send confidential rience working with overseas manu- Must have current exp. with 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. ARTIST resume to Doug Cohen: Design facturers (China) is an advantage. high end specialty stores High ceilings - Excellent Condition Major Childrenswear Company seeks a Responsibilities include all phases of Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 Fast paced, reputable better private and be willing to travel as INTERNATIONALRECRUITERS talented & experienced Girls Artist to label co looking to expand design team. garment production from initial order Search www.manhattanrealty.com work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must to final delivery and daily communication well as handle showroom @EARTHLINK.NET be able to draw flats, create prints, For Space in Garment Center Designer with overseas vendors. Fabric & trim sales and attend trade plaids, appliques and embroideries. to design & merchandise products for knowledge essential. Strong computer shows. Excellent communi- Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Min 2 years experience in Girls appa- refined & casual sportswear, dress & and technical skills are a plus. Must be 212-880-0414 Accounting Assistant rel. Need to see a strong portfolio that better woven category. Have keen eye self-motivated and a team player. Pls cation and computer skills includes boards. Good working condi- for identifying & interpreting trends. email resume to: [email protected] required. Salary $40K and Midtown contemporary apparel whole- tions plus benefits. Private Label design exp a plus. Showrooms & Lofts saler seeks experienced individual to Email resumes to: benefits. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS work directly with controller. Posting [email protected] Fabric Production Coordinator Great ’New’ Office Space Avail to G/L, complete A/P and A/R function, Prv. Label Sweater/cut-n-sew Company Fax resume & cover letter ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Sourcing/Development charge back analysis. Excellent com- to source fabric globally. Work closely seeks detailed indiv. to handle all phases to: (212) 921-2955 puter skills required, knowledge of Central Park West w/ account executives & product team. of product dev. Ability to measure/ spec Peachtree a plus. Salary commensurate Must have strong woven fabric bkgrnd garments, coord. sampling and bulk with experience. Email resume only: 1. Design Associate & knowledge of testing standards. prod. w/overseas factories. Ability to [email protected] Seeking creative indiv. for contemp. create excel spreadsheets, solve retailer sportswear co. Must be organized + Asst Tech Designer compliance issues and liaise with sales and Sr. Sales Execs - DCC to work w/ designers to issue first design a must. Excellent written and oral Admin Since 1967 multi-tasker. Illustrator is a must. A successful moderate Women’s Great opportunity w/ established brand. sample package. Also work with communication skills. Send resume w/ Sal W-I-N-S-T-O-N patternmakers, participate in fittings, req. to: [email protected] Fashion Apparel Co. has immediate 2. Salesperson communicate fit corrections, specs and APPAREL STAFFING Experienced salesperson to expand construction to clients & oversea facto- openings for motivated, energetic, DESIGN * SALES * MERCH dept. + specialty store base, oversee ries. Garment construction knowledge Production Coordinator and well organized Sr. Salespeople ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION road force and handle established a must. P roficient in Excel. Sweater Co. seeks organized, detail ori- who are willing to travel, and have (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 account base. 3-5 years experience. Email resume to: [email protected] ented individual to handle development/ Salary + commission. production. Sweater background helpful, strong followings & great contacts. Fax resume 212.840.5047 DESIGN but not a must. Fax resume: 917-591-7969 •WOVEN DIVISION Amazing Opportunities Head Graphic Designer Production Patternmaker Missy, Petite, Junior, and Plus - Couture bridal/evening wear house Est’d Junior/ Contemporary denim Co. Fast growing est’d Midtown Manhattan rapidly expanding. Seeking experienced Fast paced womenswear manufacturer addition to the existing team Jr. Denim Wholesale Co. seeks: seeks an edgy senior level graphic de- seeks patternmaker with min 5 yrs seamstress, cutter, and patternmaker signer. Min. 3-5 yrs. in JUNIORS. Denim • Production Assistant with at least 5 years of experience. experience in bias dresses. Prefer •GIRLS/TWEENS DIVISION & packaging knowledge required. Must background in better to designer • Shipping Clerk - (For US only) Please send resume to be MAC proficient. Pls. email resume to: Seeking a well exp’d., motivated [email protected] market. Must be able to communicate no edi required [email protected] with factories overseas. individual capable of spearheading • Sales Assistant Fax resume to 212-302-3318. a new business. All positions require minimum 2 yrs exp. Design We offer a great work environment. PROF. WARDROBE Please E-mail resumes to: opportunities for growth with excellent Design Production Assistant [email protected] salary & benefits. Please email resume to: Work w/ designer assisting in all aspects CONSULTANT / STYLIST [email protected] Associate Designer of the biz. Seeking energetic, English SEEKS EXPERIENCED Well est’d Junior/Missy Sweater Co. speaking person to assist in processing PATTERNMAKER / DESIGNER seeks a Designer with at least 3 years orders, ordering trims, preparing packages for custom garments. Must be experi- CHILDREN’S WEAR A/R Bookeeper 45K sweater experience to help w/all phases of for domestic & import production, enced with all fabrications and have Exp. chargebacks, credit and collection design. Responsibilities include setting specing garments, light sketching. Must own workroom located uptown or in Sales Executive Raskin Executive Search up detailed design packs, communicating be detail oriented, organized & able to fashion district, with salon for private Prestigious European Children’s Fax 732-536-4770 Email [email protected] with factories overseas and interpreting follow up. Salary open - based on exp. fittings. Call (800) 434-7898. fashion trends for volume accounts. Fax resume to Alan at: 212-575-0068 Wear Company is looking Ideal candidate will be detailed oriented, SALES ASSIST $35K for enthusiastic and motivated Assistant Designer to a team player, proficient in CAD and DSNR - BOYS 4/20 HI $ Bet Sprtswr, Comm & Excel Skills Sales Executive, with excellent Merchandiser willing to travel overseas. We offer a Growing Kidsw’r Co seeks experienced [email protected] 212-947-3400 sales and follow-up skills. PATTERN/SAMPLES great work environment w/opportunities denim-driven creative individual for Ladies manufacturer is seeking a highly for growth, excellent salary & benefits. generic and branded product. SALES ASSISTANT Computer literate & experience Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast motivated individual that is Proficient Please email or fax resume to: work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Intimate apparel company seeks sales a must. GREAT BENEFITS! in Illustrator/photoshop and excel, has E: [email protected] A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. asst . Resp will include sales analysis, strong communication skills, and an Fax: 212-221-7017 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 order distributions, order tracking, item Email resume at: ability to multi task. Must be detail ori- set up & support . Must possess excellent [email protected] ented and a team player, experience is EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT DESIGN DIRECTOR/to $120K+ Excel skills & Retail Link knowledge not necessary. Fast paced apparel co needs organized is preferred. Fax: 212-683-4038 Please fax resume: 212-869-8633. Contemporary Designer Jean Collection person to assist President. Communi- Great oppty. to bring your creative cation and computer skills a must. 2-3 Sample Maker $40-50K. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, talents & direction to this status years experience. Send resume: Jon Current exp in making bra samples. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE PRODUCTIONS ASST. ACCESSORIES contemp. designer jean collection of 212-398-4040 or [email protected] Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 Junior denim co. seeks energetic, denim,knits & wovens. Ability to work Jaral Fashion Agency motivated & organized account exec All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. DESIGNER interpret a license. Req: prev. expr. as w/specialty & chain store following for Call Sherry 212-719-0622. FASHION OPPORTUNITIES des. dir. for a premium/status denim Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - Samplemaker $700-750 Wk NY showroom, Domestic travel req’d, MAGASCHONI APPAREL GROUP line, ability to keep team on calendar, great work environment & benefits. Private label co. seeks candidates to Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. BETTER RUNWAY DESIGNER hands on design ability, knowledge of Call (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127(agcy) Fax resume: V.P. Sales- 212-279-5929 assist in all phases of design & Illustrator, work w/creator of label etc. Call Kwan 212-947-3400 correspondance w/ our HK office on a E-mail resume: [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, daily basis, must be well organized, a (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)212-481-1941 Graphic Artist TECHNICAL DESIGNER PRODUCTIONS multi-tasker, & a team player, must have Major Apparel Manufacturer is seek- Min 5 yrs exp in Contemp/designer Full service shop to the trade. 1 yr exp & knowl. of Illustrator & Photoshop. ing a Graphic Artist with min 3-5 years Mkt. web PDM, specing, pat corr, & Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Please email resumes to: Designer Associate relevant experience for their newborn grading knwldg A MUST. Need self CATALOG SALES [email protected] Contempo Missy Women’s wear Co. /infant layette licensed and branded motivator for fast paced dept w/strng Growing private label sportswear & or Fax to 509-757-7814 seeks a designer associate with 3 yrs product. Package design experience a Communic skills w/o.s. ftys. E-mail res loungewear importer seeks seasoned experience, proficient in Illustrator & plus. Ideal candidate should be very to: [email protected] or fax to: sales professional. Must be currently Photoshop. Handle process of design creative, organized, detail oriented as 212-302-3482 attn:JY. selling to major national catalogs. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Asst. to VP of Children’s wear and ability to create some embroidery well as a team player. Great company SALARY REQ MUST BE INCL Please fax resume: (212) 764-2629 High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- VP of Sales seeks Asst. Must be & print artworks. Email resume to: & full benefits! Must be computer or E-mail: [email protected] sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 computer literate with 5 years [email protected] literate. Please e-mail resume to: TECHNICAL experience in the garment center. [email protected] or fax, attn: ILLUSTRATOR 1st Patternmaker DESIGNER/CONTEMPORARY Ray (212) 842-4040. EOE. Girl’s Co. seeks children’s 1st Pattern- Fast past sportswear company seeks HIGHWAY JEANS Status Designer Jeans/$75-100K individual with 2-3 years experience to Exciting opportunities for: maker, asst. to designer, English For designer contemporary jean collec- GRAPHIC DESIGNER ...... to $75k Selling to Uncle Sam? speaking & fluent in Spanish. Senior level daywear /sleepwear exp work in busy design dept. Must know SALES PRO - Must have strong If you have factories in the U.S. and tion. Must have contemp. premium jean Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator and CAD. contacts with major dept. & chain Please fax resumes to: (516) 897-4851 collection expr., ability to understand and Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 want to sell to the government, I can [email protected] Must have knowledge of garment con- stores. Excel salary+comm+benefits show you how. Please E-mail: interpret a license, strong Illust/Photoshop. struction and details. Must be detail PRODUCTION/SALES ASST - [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected] oriented, organized and able to work Exp a must Chinese Speaking a plus. (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)212-481-1941 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER SOUTHEAST LOCATION in a team oriented environment. Fax resume to: 212-938-0079 CAD Assistant [email protected] Fax resume to: (212) 302-1980 Attn: R. Lembersky Adult and Youth apparel company seeks a highly motivated individual to DESIGNER DENIM Junior denim co. seeks organized, ORDER PROCESSING Shanghai/Hong Kong assist the Design and Merchandising KIDS - STRONG COMPUTER department in CAD work. No design detail oriented indiv to create trendy Mfr. exp’d in better / designer evening denim concepts 6x per year from start [email protected] wear. Samples and productions of experience req’d but MUST be highly skilled in Illustrator & Adobe to finish for fast paced import design any styles. Two thumbs up services. office. Adobe Illustrator skills & travel Call Mr. Ping at (212) 980-3515 Photoshop. Please Fax to: 212-921-5340 PATTERNMAKER overseas req’d, great work environ- Ladies Social Occasion Dresses looking ment & benefits. Fax resume to: for only experienced individuals for an V.P. Design- 212-279-5929 extremely busy co. Fax resume: 212-302-9325 Designer - Fashion Jewelry Leading Branded & Private Label Production Assistant Fashion Jewelry Company offers a Apparel mfr seeks a Production Asst. wonderful opportunity to an individual Computer skills, organized, knowledge seeking a solid career path. Must have of spec, tech pack, quality, communi- a minimum of 3 years experience in cation skills, bilingual a plus. Respon- this field, good computer skills and sibilities incl: follow up with customer complete product knowledge in this & factory. Travelling, purchase. 2 yrs area. Must be willing to commit to a exp. E-mail: [email protected] certain amount of travel. Salary is commensurate with experience. Production Assistant Please fax resume to 212-573-9455 Fast paced designer womenswear Attn: Kristen / Michele manufacturer seeks production assistant. Candidate will issue cutting tickets, communicate and follow up w/domestic DESIGNER cutting rooms and factories to ensure Fast paced NYC Dress Company seeks timely deliveries. Must be multi tasked. an experienced designer. Fax resume to: Bilingual Cantonese or Mandarin required. 516-829-7881 Please fax resume to 212-868-8885. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 26,200619 WWD.COM Four Starlets to Appear Federated to Spend $130M on Web In Candie’s Spring Ads Continued from page one NEW YORK — Candie’s has enlisted four Terry Lundgren, chairman, president and chief executive of- Terry Lundgren young starlets for its spring TV and print ad- fi cer, in a statement. vertising campaign. Federated’s initiative follows an announcement last week Singer-actress Hilary Duff, four- from J.C. Penney that its Web site had reached the $1 billion time Grammy nominee Ciara, Michelle annual sales mark. Other retailers, such as Neiman Marcus, Trachtenberg of “Buffy the Vampire Nordstrom, Wal-Mart and Target, have tweaked their sites over Slayer” and Samaire Armstrong, known the past year to improve the shopping experience. At the same for her roles on Fox’s “The O.C.” and time, consumers are becoming more comfortable shopping on- HBO’s hit series “Entourage.” line. The multimedia campaign will hit As a result, this past holiday, online sales soared. According March issues of fashion, entertainment to research fi rm comScore Networks Inc., nontravel online and lifestyle magazines such as In Style, retail sales leapt 25 percent to $19.6 billion in last year’s Cosmopolitan, Teen People, Teen Vogue November-December period compared with the same period and Us Weekly. Duff’s song “SuperGirl,” in the prior year. Sales include pure Internet retailers as well off her current album, “Most Wanted,” is as multichannel companies such as J.C. Penney, Wal-Mart and the soundtrack to the TV commercial. others. “Since the last campaign starred Hilary, Janet Hoffman, a partner in Accenture Ltd.’s retail practice, we thought, ‘Wouldn’t it be great to show all said online sales would become more important for retailers the new products using Hilary’s friends?’” as they realize that consumers enjoy buying online. Having an said Dari Marder, creative director for the online presence is also important because the online environ- brand. “Plus, all the girls are in that 18- to ment brings opportunities for retailers to successfully cross- 22-year-old range, which is the perfect de- sell merchandise. mographic of a Candie’s girl.” For example, a retailer like Macy’s could lure customers Candie’s product categories are avail- shopping for apparel to merchandise promotions in its home able nationwide exclusively at Kohl’s de- goods division. Overall, the alternate selling channel “gives [re- partment stores. This spring, Kohl’s will tailers] a direction of where else your customer may be having launch Candie’s home collection, swim- an experience with you, where else you have an opportunity to wear and sunglasses. continue to drive sales. I think that is an important indicator,” The campaign was created by the in-house Hoffman said. marketing team at Iconix Brand Fashion Lundgren said customers have said that they “appreciate Group and photographed by Moshe Brakha. the convenience of shopping online as well as in our stores. This cross-channel integration is a vital component of our ability to maximize the potential of the nationwide Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s brands.” Federated said it expected direct-to-consumer sales to grow to more than $750 million by 2008 from about $450 mil- lion in 2005. The direct-to-consumer businesses include macys. com, bloomingdales.com, Bloomingdale’s by Mail, macyswed- dingchannel.com and bloomingdalesweddingchannel.com. The fi rst of Federated’s planned improvements is sched- uled to be in place by spring 2007. The investments are part of Federated’s capital plan for spending $1.6 billion in 2006 and double-digit sales growth rates and improved profi tability.” between $1.1 billion and $1.2 billion in 2007. The ceo emphasized that Federated recognized the need to The investments will include upgrading and enhancing invest to better serve additional customers who want to shop content and order management software systems that support online, particularly as the company expands the presence of Internet-based selling functions, including improved service its Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s nameplates nationwide. “We are levels, facilitation of additional personalization of gift pack- very serious about capitalizing on this opportunity,” he said. ages and enhancement of detailed information on order status Federated today is expected to release key planning as- and delivery schedules. The retailer will construct a 595,000- sumptions for 2006 in a morning conference call. square-foot distribution center designed specifi cally to handle Bear, Stearns is projecting earnings per share for 2006 to direct-to-consumer orders. Ground-breaking for the new facil- be $4.90, or $4.67 excluding the Lord & Taylor operation that ity in Portland, Tenn., is expected in February 2006, with com- Federated already has said it was selling plus the additional pletion in spring 20007. Currently, orders are being fulfi lled by stores that Federated plans to sell. Total sales for 2006 are es- several centers that primarily supply the company’s stores. timated at $28.7 billion, which includes Lord & Taylor, but not Lundgren said the retailer’s “online businesses have per- the $2.2 billion in sales from the 78 stores that will be sold. A spring ad. formed very well over the past several years, with consistent — With contributions from Meredith Derby

SALESPERSON MISSY-CONTEMPORARY SALES EXECUTIVE If you’re tired of the Garment Center and would like a change, NY / Westchester Leading denim house is seeking a Missy Contemporary based Promotional Products / Advertising Specialties Co. seeks polished, experi- Denim & Sportswear Sales Exec. Min 5 years experience plus enced, and aggressive individual who experience with dept stores. Excellent salary, benefits and has the confidence to close deals with work environment. Fax or email resumes to AJ - Major Fortune 500 Companies. There is AMMA 212 944 6743 / [email protected]. money to be made in this exciting field. Please contact by Fax or E-mail: Leading upscale fitness Apparel Get Money Girl Designer Merchandiser 914-637-9200 / [email protected] Co. w/explosive growth seeks Sales Reps Exp’d, trendy, contemporary sports- Premium crossover jr sportswear wear. Jr, denim, woven, knits. Senior Sales Executive highly qualified Sales Reps collection. Considerable celebrity buzz Shop Europe. Call 718-526-2950 SALES EXECUTIVE Fast growing accessory company seeks for the following territories: surrounds Fall ’06 launch. Only the a children’s sales executive with min of • Southwest • Midwest self assured with established account PRESTIGIOUS EUROPEAN Successful, trendy handbag co. seeks 5 years experience, infant/toddler exp A relationships need apply. self-motivated salesperson with chain/ + but not necessary. Please call Susan • Mid-Atlantic All territories open. E-mail resume to: DESIGNER SHOWROOM dept/specialty store knowledge. Min. Chapman at 212-878-2035 or email to: [email protected] Sales Director & Account Executive of 3-5 years exp. in handbag or related [email protected] E: [email protected] Seeking candidates w/3 years minimum accessory sportswear market. Attrac- Fax: 212-967-1204 experience for European & Contemporary tive package with excellent benefits! collection. Highly developed fashion sense Fax resume to VP: (212) 244-5897 & well est’d. relationships with major Coolwear Jeans stores req’d. Must be extremely organ- Young/contemp, Jeans line is looking ized and possess excellent computer & for reps. with followings in all terr. JONDEN communication skills. Please Fax all Sales Executive Wtd. Fax to Helene Paul 212-382-3488 resumes to: 212-307-7481 LINDA LEAL High-end design co. seeks a pro-active An exciting contemporary updated Sales Executive & extremely motivated Sales Executive Exp’d. Sales Reps Wanted missy novelty knit line is looking for with est’d Department and Specialty GOOD COMMISSION GUARANTEED aggressive sales reps with established Established Mod-Bet knit+woven co. stores relationships. Excellent salary! Large China factories are looking for accounts in all major markets. seeks motivated indiv. to expand knit MAJOR GROWTH OPPORTUNITY! Sales Reps who have good connection Please fax inquiries to sales dept: biz as well as crate new opportunities Email: [email protected] with big chain stores in the States. Fax 212.730.1742 or E-mail: in denim, jr. & contemp. collections. resume to Carrie at: 212-268-9404 [email protected] Salary plus commish, great oppty! Email resume to: [email protected]