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Feel the Pleat The Inside: Favorite Luxury Brands Pg. 16 HONORING FARAH/3 ARMANI, GAP AND BONO/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • January 26, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Feel the Pleat PARIS — Madonna turned up at his show, throwing the paparazzi into a frenzy, but there was plenty to look at in Jean Paul Gaultier’s dazzling spring couture collection, which threw all of his signatures into high relief. Tailoring, ethnic influence and embellishments — all were beautifully present and accounted for. There were particularly terrific dresses, such as this intricately pleated number. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 9. Federated’s Web Push: Retailer Plans to Invest $130M to Boost Sites By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Still knitting together its acquisition of May Department Stores, Federated Department Stores Inc. is now looking to weave a better Web site for its shoppers. The retailer said Wednesday that it is earmarking $130 million for a two-year project to improve and enhance its direct- to-consumer business. “Online sales represent the fastest-growing part of our business and an outstanding opportunity for continued progress as we serve millions of new customers nationwide through our acquisition of May Co.,” said See Federated, Page19 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ The appearance of Madonna caused a furor, but Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show offered reason to celebrate, as he dazzled. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Still knitting together its megamerger with May Department Stores, THE DOW AND TAO OF APPAREL 1 Federated Department Stores Inc. is now looking to weave a better Web. As Markets Fluctuate, Women Dare to be Bullish On Wardrobe Portfolio EYE: Making the rounds at Sundance, and talking with the likes of Eliza- 4 beth Reaser, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Chiwetel Ejiofor and Gretchen Mol. Everyone knows the importance of investing It may also be somewhat about a sense of DENIM: Fall and winter styles inspired by a blend of rock and pop was a wisely for a strong financial future and smart women effortless wear and easy elegance, asserts Lynn Cohen, 11 prominent theme at the Bread & Butter trade show in Barcelona. carry that practice over to their wardrobes. In flush proprietor of Runway, a boutique with locations in times, it’s easy to justify the indulgence, but when Manhattan’s Flatiron and Soho Districts. “Women Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................18-19 leading indicators begin pointing want to get dressed once and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. south, the case becomes a little look really pulled together for [email protected], using the individual’s name. more difficult. Many women will the entire sphere of events in a WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- argue the merits of investing in their given day from work to RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 18. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- wardrobes either as a result of, or in meetings to dinner out,” she ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- spite of, market performance. tells. “They want to be taken ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Borrowing a page from the Dress for seriously and having the right Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and Success tome, many believe that look is critical to that.” Cohen C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior great apparel is literally a personal may clearly be on to something. Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance investment, an investment in career Nearly six out of ten female Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. and in the way the world perceives respondents said that they prefer 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable them. to wear one comfortable outfit Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, There may be some good news for all the different activities in a ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four ahead for these bullish shoppers. day, versus changing clothes to weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. With analysts predicting an overall fit a range of different events, Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other surge for the Dow Jones Industrial according to the Monitor. U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. “A stronger stock market is First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Average, women may likely be able One garment getting women and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions always a driver of consumption to indulge their urge to splurge on through their varied activities is and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To for more luxury goods. Women subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make fashion and in particular, luxury denim and the penchant for our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would will be trading up to higher and interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise apparel, with a little less guilt. premium denim shows no signs us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. The majority of women are higher brands to differentiate and of abating. “Ninety percent of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- positive about the economy. diversify themselves” the jeans we are selling at the ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, According to theCotton Incorporated — Milton Pedraza, moment are above the $250 OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Lifestyle Monitor™, 64.9% of Luxury Institute mark,” Cohen continues. “With female respondents stated that embellishment and slight details, they were “somewhat” to “very optimistic” about women are basically wearing denim works of art.” their own financial situations. This is encouraging A pair of premium jeans is a true investment piece, In Brief news for the upscale apparel market, which will analyzes Paige Adams, owner and designer of Paige likely enjoy some robust interest from female Denim. “As consumers become more savvy and ● JONES’ EXECUTIVE MOVE: Howard Zwilling has been pro- consumers looking to spread the proverbial wealth. educated about premium denim, they realize that they moted to group chief executive offi cer for Jones moderate “It’s almost a rite of passage that once you come get what they are paying for. They recognize the sportswear at Jones Apparel Group. Zwilling had been presi- dent of the moderate sportswear group, responsible for the into a little more money, you will be upgrading your difference in the fabric, fit, construction, and length of Erika and Pappagallo brands. His new responsibilities in- wardrobe,” considers Linda DeFranco, a senior wear over time. They see how they fit and feel on the clude the moderate sportswear brands Norton McNaughton, trend forecaster with Cotton Incorporated. “It seems body and how it’s worth the price.” Nine & Co., Joneswear, Bandolino, Evan-Picone and Rena only natural.” “Denim has become the new black pant; we wear Rowan. Jones is conducting a search to fi ll Zwilling’s previous Many women build their wardrobes in much the jeans everywhere,” contends Fister from post. He continues to report to Lynne Cote, ceo for wholesale same fashion that they build their portfolios, ShopBop.com. “Investing in a great pair is well sportswear, suits and dresses. worth the money since we diversifying a good mix of LIFESTYLE MONITOR: ● TANDY APPOINTMENT: Tandy Brands Accessories has blue chip stocks with classic wear denim all of the time.” Women’s Personal Financial Outlook: appointed Jane Batts as president of its women’s division. investments, says Milton Another item to get a great Batts, who was most recently president of the Dallas office Pedraza, chief executive Somewhat optimistic 40.1% deal of both wear and of talent agency Strategic Transitions Inc., began her new officer of Luxury Institute, Very optimistic 24.8% attention is a fabulous coat, role this week.
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