Journal of Fashion Business Vol.22, No.3 Analysis of Korean and Foreign Special Effects — ISSN 1229-3350(Print) Make-up in Representative Films by Period ISSN 2288-1867(Online) — J. fash. bus. Vol. 22, † No. 3:57-66, July. 2018 Jeewon Jung · Eun-Sil Kim https://doi.org/ 10.12940/jfb.2018.22.3.57 Dept. of Beauty Design & Science, Gwangju University, Korea
Corresponding author — Eun-Sil Kim Tel : +82-62-670-2719 Fax : +82-62-670-2719 E-mail: [email protected]
Keywords Abstract special effects make-up, The purpose of this study is to gather basic data in the special effects make-up character make-up, field and to provide a source of inspiration for creative make-up design by prosthetics, animatronics, examining how special effects make-up is developed according to representative digital make-up films. Two approaches are used in this study: a literature review and an empirical case analysis. In Korea, color TV was introduced in the 1980s, with the demand for a realistic image. Since the 2000s, 3D printing technology has been introduced to special effects make-up. Special effects make-up was first - This Study was conducted by introduced in Hollywood films in the 1890s, and by the 1900s, artificial teeth research funds from Gwangju and eyebrows were added and presented using general make-up techniques. University in 2018 Since then, 3D and 4D technologies and animation performance capture - This work is a part of a doctoral methods have been introduced and distributed due to the rapid development dissertation. of computer technology.
Ⅰ. Introduction other centers, and it is responsible for the development of laws and institutions for job creation and the addition The Ministry of Health and Welfare has launched the of tasks required by other sites. The government has 'Beauty Industry Competitiveness Enhancement Committee' selected the cultural industries such as film, animation, and promoted the development of the beauty industry in broadcasting and video industries as strategic industries 2010, as the K-beauty craze has been promoted globally. along with the development of the beauty industry and It consists of a committee composed of academia, beauty selected it as a representative core country-based industries, KOTRA, Korea Tourism Organization, and industry that determines national competitiveness. As a 58 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.22, No.3 result, the Korean Wave, which began with the drama, character make-up, prosthetics, and animetronics were expands to movies, musicals, K-pop, and is worth a lot reflected. of money from expanding into Europe, North and South America. Ⅱ. Theoretical Background This study is to identify the history of special effects make-up by analyzing the domestic and foreign 1. The Concept of Special Effects Make-up representative films reflecting the 'special effects make-up', which is a high value-added industry, as a Make-up is a creative act for the audience to field of make-up along with K-beauty hot air, I would understand the personality fact as the most apparent like to suggest a direction. means of communicating actor’s characters(Kang, 1999), There are number of previous studies about special Special Effects make-up Means a discipline that utilizes effects make-up. Kim(2006) studied the special effects special materials, techniques, and effects to express more make-up of Korean films. Yun(2011) studied on the lively and realistic characters that are difficult to express Hollywood movies in the United States. Kim(2011) in general(Lee, 2012). In recent years, it has been studied hot form and silicon technique among special pursuing a more realistic and perfect character creation effects make-up techniques. Lee(2012), Jang(2004) have by applying expert knowledge and skills in various fields studied characters with special effects make-up applied such as art, chemistry, and medicine to the special effects to them. Kwon(2014) studied special effects make-up for make-up field(Kwon, 2014). Computer Graphic has their works of art. As such, most studies on special played a major role in infinitely developing the cinematic effects make-up design including special effects make-up imagination by reproducing the social and cultural artists, special effects make-up products, and characters meaning of the person who wants to express beyond the are being conducted, and no studies on the evolution of visual image(Yun, 2011). special effects make-up techniques in movies are However, until now, the definitions and distinctions of required. Street make-up, Character make-up, Special effects The purpose of this study is to become a basic data make-up, SFX make-up and FX make-up are confused of special make-up field and to be a source of in the field of make-up. The purpose of this study is to inspiration of creative make-up design by examining the distinguish general and special effects make-up from the representative films which are best revealed by special viewpoint of the technique of film and science based on effects make-up techniques. previous research and domestic and foreign books. In The methods of the study are composed of two part, other words, the street make-up can be called the one of literature review and the other one of empirical make-up using basic make-up tools. The special effects case analysis. For literature review, precedent researches, make-up is a special material that expresses the body articles, domestic and foreign books and news involved through constant deformation and distortion. It is to be in this field and for empirical case analysis, the data defined as a concept that includes the digital make-up collection from this study was analyzed by selecting a of the Computer Graphic and Animatronics in which work in which special effects make-up techniques were mechanical devices are used, and as in Table 1. clearly shown in domestic(late 1980s) and overseas(late Generally, street make-up is used for dramas, 1890s) films from the time of the appearance of special broadcasts, and movies. It is used for foundation, effects make-up to the present. The selection of the film Foundation, Highlighter, and so on to make-up for the was conducted by three doctors who majored in cases where artificial lighting in the studio, Shadow, and make-up, and based on the concept of special effects so on. The street make-up can be divided into stage make-up as defined in this study, the general make-up, make-up and video make-up depending on the location Jeewon Jung · Eun-Sil Kim / Analysis of Korean and Foreign Special Effects Make-up in Representative Films by Period 59
Table 1. Special Effects Make-up Terms Classification Sourced from Previous Research
Classification of terms in Research A subject of study Composition classification the standards of this (years) study
Street A Study of Street make-up Street make-up make-up Artists make-up and Character’s Jang, M Character Special make-up Character make-up (2004) Special make-up Effects in the effects Animatronics Animatronics Twentieth Century’s make-up Films Digital make-up Digital make-up
A Study on Special Street make-up Street make-up effect make-up Kim, Y Street Design Process (2007) make-up Character Development of SF Character make-up make-up Movies
Prosthetics Prosthetics Street Street A Study on the Animatronics Animatronics Special SFX make-up make-up Current Status of Hwang, S effects Special make-up of (2009) Dummy make-up - Character Korean Movies Making make-up Digital make-up Digital make-up Prosthetics Special Prosthetics Prosthetics effects Physical Animatronics make-up techniques Animatronics Animatronics A Study on Digital Collaborative makeup Digital Relationship of Digital make-up Kim, Y make-up Special make-up Digital (2009) Hybrid effects for techniques Development of make-up Digital make-up make-up Science design Digital Design make-up Digital make-up techniques design
Character Prosthetics Prosthetics A Study on the make-up Development Yoo, T Process of Special (2011) makeup in Korean Animatronics Animatronics Special Film effects Digital Digital make-up make-up make-up
Street make-up Street make-up A Study on Street Character Design Lee, H make-up Character Street make-up for Special effects (2012) make-up make-up Special effects make-up Special effects make-up 60 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.22, No.3
Figure 1. Old Age Make-up Figure 2. Prosthetics Figure 3. (Michael Spatola, 2014, p.33) (Todd Debreceni, 2013, p.43) Prosthetics that Restore Some of the Damaged Body Using Silicone (Todd Debreceni, 2013, p.15) of use, and the most important aspect of stage make-up with special effects make-up, is a compound of is that the audience sees the screen through medium animation and electronics. It is the effect of technique to media(camera, film, and other mechanical devices), rather make more natural animation using electronic devices. It than the audience(Jin, 2011). is a state-of-the-art method that can express various In this study, character make-up among special effects mechanical movements by attaching a mechanical device make-up is intended to clarify the verbal ambiguity of to a model made through the process of prosthetic character make-up in terms of character make-up and process(Lee, 1999). make-up techniques as the dictionary definition. Finally, digital make-up is usually a computer Character make-up will be limited to the terms in terms technology that uses the hardware and software of a of make-up techniques that create or express characters computer to input various components such as the shape by distorting or transforming parts of the body without and color of an object into the computer to produce a going through the process of life casting. In other words, third image(Jang, 2004). It mainly uses 2D or 3D character make-up refers to Wax, Liquid Late, 3D(Third programs such as Page maker, Illustrator, Photoshop, Degree) and Skin Gel, as in Figure 1. Maya, Quex X-press, Corel Draw, The limited use of Prosthetics make a big difference in appearance, such design and architectural design has expanded the range as monsters, historical figures, demons, and aliens. To of art and industrial fields such as advertising, video, represent a completely different person, the model is computer art, industrial design, and film, and efficiency constructed using plaster cast of all or part of the actor's and technology are evolving(Hwang, 2009). Special body, and then, depending on the purpose, a filler is effects make-up has become more sophisticated with the injected as in Figure 2. Recently, not only movies and development of digital make-up techniques, and as the TV sets, but also the body, bones, and surface parts of field is gradually expanded, special effects make-up the body, including the face due to cancer or accident, artists are also able to apply practical skills including are restored to silicon or gelatin as in Figure 3. It is a animetronics and computer graphics. However, the use of field that is more likely to develop in the future as its digital make-up in all shooting situations is limited, utilization is also increasing in the medical field such as requiring proper convergence and complementation recovering visual satisfaction and confidence(Todd, 2013). between traditional and special effects make-up Animatronics, which combines mechanical technology according to the environment and conditions. Jeewon Jung · Eun-Sil Kim / Analysis of Korean and Foreign Special Effects Make-up in Representative Films by Period 61
2. Current Status of Domestic and Foreign Special to increase by about 1,000(annual average 1.2%) over Effects Make-up the next 10 years from about 8,000 in 2015 to 2025(Korea Employment Information Service, 2017). In Recently, the Korean film industry has grown particular, the development of various cultural arts remarkably, and it has distinguished itself with awards industries and the diversification of the media are for best picture and best actor at international film expected to have a somewhat positive effect on the festivals, as well as a boom in film exports. In employment of the modeling companies working in particular, since 2009, the number of big blockbusters broadcasting, drama and theater. Expansion of HD-TV targeting the global market such as "Snow Train(2013)" and digital broadcasting is expected. More sophisticated and "Mr. Go(2013)" has increased and the average work on make-up and make-up is required and is number of commercial movie releases has increased. expected to have a positive impact on the employment Combined with box office sales, added market and of make-up artists and fashion retailers. In addition, overseas sales rose steadily to 117.3 billion(KRW) in special effects make-up is used for broadcasting, 2016, the biggest increase in a decade, up 82.1% from a advertisement and promotional films, so that the field of year earlier. Not only was the movie "Train to activity can be expanded, especially in the field of 3D Busan(2016)" exported abroad, but it was also a result printing using computer, etc. of increased sales from the service export sector and locations abroad(Korean Film Council, 2017). According III. An Analysis of Special Effects Make-up Movies to a survey conducted by the Korean Film Council in by Period 2015, in 2013, there were 2,951 people in 19 job positions, 339 related companies, It was estimated at 268 1. Korean Cases billion(KRW). Among them, the sales of the special effects group are as follows computer graphic field total Special effects make-up is used in almost all films in the 69.4 billion(KRW, average sales about 2.4 billion), special film industry, and since it is a very important factor to effects total 3.6 billion(KRW, average sales about 400 increase the realism and level of immersion, the million won). Special effects and special effects make-up development of the movie is progressing rapidly in sales accounted for 5~6% of CG sales, respectively. This Korea(Kim, 2006). seems to be only 3% of total technology sales, which is The first time such special effects make-up was small in size compared to its importance, but this is introduced in Korea was when color TV was introduced mainly due to the fact that it is not a special effects in late 1980s, making the street make-up of the basic make-up and special effects that are being used stage more realistic(Jin, 2001). This change is well shown separately. In other words, in order to minimize the in the KBS drama "Home of Legend" which aired from sense of realism and create a highly finished work, the 1977 to 1989, and the early special effects make-up uses movie industry should be able to show all parts in a latex prostheses in the ears and nose rather than mixture of computer graphics and special effects completely changing the appearance of an actor(Kim, make-up. Therefore, computer graphics have become a 2016)(Lee, 2012). Since then, many movies using special very important area for companies in charge of special effects make-up have been released, including "Dracura effects make-up to play an important role in applying in the the coffin(1982)", and "Ureme(1986)" using advanced special effects make-up technologies. prostheses in the teeth(Lee, 2012). According to the publication of the Korea Employment From the early 1990s, the audience's level began to Information Service, 'make-up artist and dressmaker', the rise with foreign films, and as more sophisticated and number of make-up artists and dressmakers is expected special effects make-up and effects were required, foreign 62 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.22, No.3 special effects make-up techniques were introduced in 2. Overseas Cases earnest(Hwang, 2009). "Gumiho(1994)" and "Jagumo(1999)" which are representative scenes of the The development of Hollywood movies is so historic that heart, are used to create various types of materials, from it is accompanied by a change of special effects machines to foam and silicon. In particular, "ShirI" which make-up. In 1895, the French film "The Broken Wall" was released in 1998, has helped to increase the size of used photographic techniques to make the walls look like the entire movie market by producing a formula called they were built by themselves, and in the same year, "10 million viewers" by continuously attracting 6 million And in the United States, she directed a cutting-edge viewers. scene in the drama "The Execution of Mary Stuart"(Kim, Since 2000, it has started to make its own 2016). In the UK, a portrait photographer, Smith development based on the special effects make-up Simon(GA Simth), made his own direct-to-camera film technologies imported from overseas. In order to express from 1896, creating a special film called "The Corsican the atmosphere of wound by mainly prosthetics Brothers(1897)". technique, it made the shape of wounds with wax and In 1908, he made use of highlights and shadows, or fixed it with latex. To make it look like a human's skin, added artificial teeth and eyebrows in the film "Dr. Jekyll silicone, syrup, and blood are used. The airbrush is used and Mr. Hyde", and later in the film "The Hunchback of to color nails and blood vessels. Organs made of porcine Notre Dame(1923)", the implant was made with cotton organs and artificial internal organs and special needles and colloid. are used for legs, arms and chest To the fine hairs of In the 1930s, when movies with specific genres were the hair(Lee, 2012). In "With the Korean flag(2003)" it actively produced, the films "Frankenstein(1931)" and was possible to overcome the technological limitations of "Dracula 1931)" were light and resilient, the use of foam animatronics introduced in the 1990s, such as expressing latex techniques used in the manufacture of imitations the body crawling on the ground with the waist cut off. such as wound or partial implants, cut-off hair, arms, 'Fat make-up' in "Beauty is in pain(2006)" is appreciated and legs(Lee, 2012). It was not until the early 1930s that as enabling more realistic character expression. Britain introduced special effects make-up by famous Since 2010, the convergence of special effects and film maker and producer Alexander Corda. He was able special effects make-up, which are represented by to produce a movie of the same level as Hollywood by computer graphics, has become more popular, enabling introducing Hollywood technology and working with people to express their characters beyond imagination in engineers, especially Ned Neard, a Hollywood special various genres. The scenes of fighting with tens of effects make-up artist who had a profound influence on thousands of soldiers in "Moss(2010)" and "International the British special effects make-up(B. Jhon, 1976). Market(2014)" and "Myeongnyang(2014)" were effectively After World War I, the movie industry began to move expressed in special and digital make-up. In particular, slowly in the 1940s and began to focus on improving the zombie movie "Busan Line (2016)", which produced color, starting with "Gone with the Wind(1939)". It made 90 billion units of sales and attracted 10 million viewers, a difference. is one of the films showing the development of the Since 1950, SF movies that deal with monsters, robots, domestic special effects make-up. As the movie space travel, aliens, future society, and time travel have progresses, And expressed Korean zombies to a high attracted the attention of the public, and massive degree of perfection. blockbuster masterpieces have begun to be produced with Table 2 shows the changes in the domestic special huge production costs(Lee, 2014). In addition, a effects make-up and representative works of the period. stop-motion technique was used to continuously project images taken while changing one frame at a time to Jeewon Jung · Eun-Sil Kim / Analysis of Korean and Foreign Special Effects Make-up in Representative Films by Period 63
Table 2. History of Special Effects Make-up in Korean Representative Films
Years Changes in Domestic Special Effects Make-up Representative Films
Dracura in the the ·With the spread of color TV, the generalization of the basic street make-up coffin(1982), has become more realistic 1980 Ureme(1986), · Using the implant on the ears and nose rather than the overall appearance Home of Legend ·The beginning of Korean special effects make-up (1977-1989)
· Using of various materials with the introduction of overseas special effects Nine-tailed fox make-up (1994), 1990 · Introduction of animatronics Shirl(1998), · Fusion of computer graphics and special effects make-up Zagumo(1999)
With the Korean · Application of foreign special effects make-up and independent flag(2003), development A man of kings 2000 · Using various materials to express wounds or skin (2005), · Advanced technology, such as using the intestines of animals and doing Beauty is in pain manual work on each hair (2006)
Moss(2010), International market · Widespread of special effect and fusion of special effects make-up (2014), 2010 · Expressing characters in a variety of genres Myeongnyang(2014) · Effective representation with special effects make-up and digital make-up Train to Busan (2016)
naturally express the motion of a character such as the ceremony of the year to win a special award in the movie "Godzilla(1954)". category of achievements. In "2001: A Space In the 1960s, known as the Golden Age of SF, the Travesty(1968)" won the Academy Award in 1968 for his introduction of computer graphics and animatronics special visual effects and groundbreaking imagination. It resulted in a great deal of impression with various is considered to be one of the best films in the world expressions and materials. In particular, William Turtle, cinema market since it was produced before human who won the 1964 Academy Awards, was recorded in landing on the moon and it showed scientific 1964 by "Dr. Lao's seven faces" film as an expression of factuality(Sim, 2011). Later on, Dick Smith, a special a snake scene that convincingly expresses and talks about effects make-up artist, introduced a variety of materials the image of the mystery of the Orient(McLean, 2016). in various genres of films, including the film "The In addition, "The Planet of the Apes(1968)" was invested Godfather(1972)" and "Amadeus(1984)"(Lee, 2012). heavily in the apex cost of 15% of the total production Especially, in the movie "The Exorcist(1973)", the cost and recognized the value of the special make-up technique of rotating the neck of the girl by 180 degrees technology using foam latex. The Academy Awards or swelling of the neck, and the system of ejecting the 64 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.22, No.3 toe by twisting the facial muscles led to the development national and international representative films reflecting of special effects make-up(Hwang, 2009). Fat make-up, the special effects make-up, analyzes the changes of the which first appeared in the 1983 movie "The Man With special effects make-up by the age, and becomes the Two Brains" is an expression of what it was like when basic data of the special effects make-up field and tries it became obese, while retaining the characteristics of an to find the way to make the special effects make-up. actor. Pat make-up developed in various forms(Sim, As a result, in Korea, color TV started to spread in 2011). In addition, the development of animatronics has the 1980s, and it started to develop with a realistic made a big turning point in the special effects make-up, make-up. In the 1990s, a variety of materials were used contributing to the expansion of the creative scope due to the introduction of overseas special effects beyond the limit of the characters that the actors can make-up technology such as digital make-up and postpone. "Terminator Love Theme(1984)" and animatronics were introduced. In the 2000s and "Aliens(1986)" are typical examples of how animatronics thereafter, independent technologies of domestic special technology can be expressed naturally without effects make-up technicians, including the introduction of compromise with real life(Lee, 2012). In the 1990s, when 3D printing techniques to special effects make-up, have the development of special effects began using computer been developed, and the scope of special effects make-up graphics, it was a step forward through the movie's has been gradually expanded with the release of various sequel, "Terminator 2(1991)" and "Jurassic Park(1993)". films. Since 2000, computer graphics technology has become In the case of overseas, the special effects make-up more advanced with the advancement of science and was first introduced in Hollywood movies in the 1890s, computer technology. Especially, "Avatar(2009)" has been and at that time, it was based on special effects a huge hit with worldwide sales of about $2 billion(The techniques such as cutting hair using photography and Numbers, 2017). James Cameron, a former special effects editing techniques. By the 1900s, And began to make director, has put 3D technology and tiny camera artificial teeth and eyebrow apparel. In the 1920s, the equipment on the actor's head to capture not only his characters were represented by the use of cotton and facial muscles but also his eyelashes(J. Sim, 2011). So colloid, and the prosthetics technique using foam latex far, the market for special effects make-up has grown at was introduced in the 1930s and the special manager an unimaginable rate, and with new technology and was introduced in earnest in England. In the 1950s and convergence in various fields, it has been shown in 1960s, the so-called golden age of science fiction, digital almost every film to enhance and promote the quality of dressmaking and animatronics appeared, and it was a the film. meaningful time for the Academy Awards ceremony to Table 3 shows the changes in the foreign special introduce the field of dressmaking. In the 1970s, Dick effects make-up and representative works of the period. Smith, a special effects make-up artist, improved his technique in order to attach a partial attachment to the IV. Conclusion fragments according to the flow of the facial muscles and to play a more natural expression. In the 1980s and "Special effects make-up" means the process of 1990s, Fat make-up was popular, and the development visualizing characters in movies or dramas to match the of Animatronics and computer graphics was significant. images required by the play. The scope of special effects Since then, 3D and 4D technologies and animation make-up is now being expanded by the development of performance capture methods have been introduced and science and technology, while its importance is being distributed due to rapid development of science and highlighted. computer. This study focuses on this point and selects the As a result of these researches, it has been found that Jeewon Jung · Eun-Sil Kim / Analysis of Korean and Foreign Special Effects Make-up in Representative Films by Period 65
Table. 3. History of Special Effects Make-up in Foreign Representative Films
Years Changes in Foreign Special Effects Make-up Representative Films
· Introduced special effects using photo technology for the first time The Broken Wall(1895), · Editing technology produces a scene where hair is cut off The Execution of Mary 1890 · Applied a patent for a special effects make-up technique called Stuart(1895), double exposure Korsican Brothers(1897)
1900 Dr. Jekyll and Hyde(1908) · Using highlights and shadows Frankenstein · make-up with artificial teeth and eyebrows 1910 (1910), Ware Wolf(1913) The Hunchback of Notre 1920 · Wearing implant with cotton and colloid Dame(1923), Phantom of the Opera(1925)
Frankenstein (1931), 1930 Dracula(1931), · Actively producing films based on specific genres The ghost goes west(1935), · Evolution of Foam Latex Techniques Gone with the Wind(1939) · Introduced special effects make-up to UK in earnest Thief in Baghdad(1940), 1940 A wonderful life(1946), A bishop's wife(1947) 1950 Godzilla(1953) · The Golden Age of SF · Utilizing stop motion shooting technique Dr. Lao's seven faces(1964), 1960 · Introduction of computer graphics and animatronics The Planet of the Apes(1968), · Introduced Academy Award Ceremony 2001: A Space Travesty(1968)
The Godfather(1972), 1970 · Improving Dick Smith's dress code The Exorcist (1973)
Electronic brain human(1983), · Started fat make-up Amadeus(1984), 1980 · The development of animatronics Terminator(1984), Alien 2(1986)
Terminator 2(1991), Jurassic Park(1993), 1990 · Breakthroughs in animatronics and computer graphics Man in black(1997), Titanic(1997)
AI(2001), 2000 Avatar(2009), Star track(2009) · Rapid advances in science and computer development enhance computer graphic technology Ironman(2010), · Introduction of 3D technology and emotion performance capture Pirates of the Caribbean(2011), Avengers(2012), 2010 method Mad max(2015), The Fast and The Furious 8(2017) 66 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.22, No.3 the special technique is advanced due to the development Kim, Y. (2009). A Study on Collaborative Relationship of science and technology, and it is important to emit of Special Effects for Development Makeup Science. the professional manpower that can be practically used (Unpublished master's thesis). Chung-ang University, in industry. To do this, it is likely that make-up majors Seoul, Korea. should first develop an education course to get more Korea Employment Information Service. (2017). 2017 specialized make-up education. career prospects(security, beauty and personal services), Seoul Korea, 32-34. References Korean Film Council. (2015). Special Effects and Special Effects make-up, Seoul Korea, 1. McLean, A. L.(2016). Costume, make-up and hair. New Korean Film Council. (2017). Report on the Korean Film Jersey: Rutgers University Press, 8. Industry in 2016, Seoul Korea, 1-2. Michael S. (2014). Character makeup, Los Angeles: Kown, D. (2014). A Study on production of special Cinema Makeup School, 33. effect make-up utilizing objects (Unpublished master's Hwang, S. (2009). A study on the current status of thesis). Hannam University, Daejeon, Korea. special make-up of Korean movies: Focusing on the Lee, H. (2012). A study on character design for special special make-up of
Received (May 25, 2018) Revised (June 11, 2018) Accepted (July 4, 2018)