HOUSTON & EAST TEXAS © membership,’ these days they’ll likely justlooktheotherway. Nowthat’stheTexasmembership,’ thesedaysthey’lllikely spirit. that sellsbooze onlyto‘members;’whiletheymightcharge youafew bucksfora‘temporary up. Consideritanostalgic throwback,then,ifyoufindyourselfin aneastTexas ‘private club’ was –atleasttheoretically –prohibited. Tothedismayofsome,thesecountiesare againdrying cal, eastTexas wasonceknownforits‘dry’counties,meaning thesaleofalcoholtopublic hurricane ortwo. This isoneedgyplace. plenty ofstellar restaurants, culture intothemix,andsendinatorrid andentertainment swelling region uptwiceasmuchlandChicago,cranktheheat,throw thattakes andbohemian.Picturebusinesslike more thantwomillionresidents spread over anever- reeks ofbothmoneyandpoverty, andthiscityturnsonadime:bourgeois andbackwards, up, andyou’ve goteastTexas. meanit. Whenyouhear‘Y’allcomebacknow,’peopleactually world’s largest cypress forest, red-hot Houston andalittleCajun seasoningtospicethings of Texas itthatway. Nowthrowinsomepineywoods,the isabitofanenigmaanditlikes trifecta ofthethree, perhaps?The easternmost notchonthenation’sBibleBelt?This part It’s nottheSouthwest,it’sTex-Mex andit’snotreally theDeepSouth,either. Aholy Houston & East Texas 188
L Outside Houston,you’llseeawholelotofchurchesamongthepinetrees. Heavilyevangeli- And thenthere’s H-town.More forAustin, countrythanDallas,tooconservative Houston feel afree like (wo)man inHuntsville (p 217 ) Surrounded bymaximum-security prisons,it’seasyto BestPlacetoSavor YourFreedom labyrinthine Caddo Lak Glide amongthemysterious cypress trees onthe BestPlacetoGet Lost Creek Café (p 209 ) down rightquickwiththefrozen mimosaatOnion On ascorcherofHoustonafternoon, wecooled BestDrink toChillOut at theBigThicket NationalPreserve (p 219 ) Wander theshadytrailsthroughfragrantpineywoods BestPlacetoDitchtheSunscreen hotels, butthelocalsare friendlyasall get out Tiny Jefferson (p 221 ) BestPlacetoGet Spooked (p Menil Collection 199 ) atHouston’s Form someopinionsonpostmodernart BestFree Art HIGHLIGHTS o n e l y
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L e (p t d ### ) Huntsville Houston Jefferson Big Thicket National Preserve Lake Caddo HOUSTON & EAST TEXAS 189 87 98 miles, 1¾ hours 145 miles, 2¾ hours 164 miles, 3 hours 161 miles, 3 hours 242 miles, 4 hours 200 miles, 3¾ hours 58 miles, 1½ hours Visitors and even residents find Houston and even residents Visitors Until the 1930s, Houston was a sleepy Until the 1930s, Houston was a sleepy The beauty of Houston lies in its dual per- Houston lies in its dual The beauty of miles, 1¾ hours
Houston to College Station Houston to Dallas Houston to Nacogdoches Houston to Sam Houston National For- est Houston to Tyler DRIVING DISTANCES to Nacogdoches Preserve Big Thicket Dallas to Jefferson Houston to Austin dous growth has been largely unfettered by unfettered been has dous growth largely The other planning restrictions. zoning and strip malls, of hodgepodge A surreal result? HISTORY they have been extremely important. Rather, been extremely they have the two words critical to the city’s spectacular ‘air’ and ‘conditioning.’ growth are plugged grumpily 100,000. Office workers away at their desks in sweatshop conditions; Houstonians fled during summer months, cooler coastalthe city in search breezes. of on became available When air-conditioning weekend, this city pays off to those this city pays off weekend, who stop eclectic and meander through its laid-back, central neighborhoods. and downright pretty pickup-truck-and-boots sonality: laid-back high-cultured town meets high-powered, out in your ropolis. During the day, chill met in museums take shopping, and flip-flops, a palm-shaded and hit happy hour under in culinary or oper- By night, revel patio. foodie scene and atic bliss – the burgeoning nationally the Houston Grand Opera are renowned. Houston’s The most important two words in – although not ‘oil’ and ‘cattle’ history are diverse residential areas and ‘downtown’ areas areas and ‘downtown’ areas residential diverse de- Yet to the traditional center. in addition lights curiosity with a map, a little abound: advice, locals to give friendly of and plenty is as Houston’s cultural scene you’ll find that as its oil industry. rich However,to be a confusing sprawl. most of lie in the 6 miles bet- interest of the areas ween the Galleria mall and downtown. While sights could be seenHouston’s major in a regional center with a population under with a population under center regional ? The proud underrated HOUSTON •• History
Sure, Houston’s got issues, but could this Sure,
If you’re driving, your trip will be much driving, your trip will be much If you’re
Climate Getting There & Around combined with a Wild West mentality toward city planning means that Houston’s stupen- itan and a big hot mess to metropolis to some spirit business-first An entrepreneurial others. maligned for its air pollution, sprawl and maligned for its air pollution, sprawl and Enron-sized scandals, Houston is a cosmopol- their Jimmy Choos) and said say, ‘Heck yes.’ their Jimmy Choos) and said say, ‘Heck Celebrated flair, for its arts and international locals would stop their cowboy boots (or locals would stop their cowboy boots (or celebrated – even in Texas. celebrated city be just a tad bit number three), but it’s hardly one of the most but it’s hardly one of number three), boy on the block. Big, brash, hazy Houston US (and city in the may be the fourth-largest in at it to edge rooting for Houstonians are In a state known for its outsized personality, In a state known for its outsized personality, bad Houston is the biggest ego and geography, HOUSTON pop 2.26 million the US highways yet, the bucolic or, better (FM) roads. to Market Farm more scenic and enjoyable if you get off the scenic and enjoyable if you get more onto the secondary roads – either interstate and slow. rily serves Amtrak cities along the interstates. service can be described in two words: limited Houston is the most convenient major air- major Houston is the most convenient Dallas Lufkin, while port for locales south of best serves places north. Bus service prima- smaller towns are generally easy to reach. easy to reach. generally smaller towns are The proverb ‘the car is king in Texas’ applies king in Texas’ ‘the car is The proverb it means that all roads in these Luckily, here. and even parts do lead to Houston, the here (34°C); a few hours north, in Nacogdoches, north, in Nacogdoches, hours (34°C); a few it’s just as sweltering. that notorious hotbox – Houston – is 94°F – Houston – is that notorious hotbox more like it, but you needto say like it as you run, more all, After air-conditioning. into screaming, right, That’s if you plan do. that’s what locals or two during than a block on walking more for those be prepared the summer months, July high in crazy!’ looks. The average ‘Hey, the nearer you get to the Gulf, the more in- to the Gulf, the more get you the nearer that’s – yeah, tense ‘Scorching’ the humidity. this part of Texas in the summer, but you but you in the summer, Texas this part of does Neither ‘humid,’ and the picture. get The word ‘hot’ doesn’tThe word ‘hot’ begin to describe really lonelyplanet.com