Culinary Education in the Magazine "Hocho-Ambai" —Enlightenment for Both Men and Women by Cooks—
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日 本 調 理 科 学 会 誌Vol.40,No.5,337～346(2007)〔Note〕 Culinary Education in the Magazine "Hocho-Ambai" —Enlightenment for Both Men and Women by Cooks— Miki Imai The purpose of this study is to examine "Hocho-Ambai," a culinary magazine in the mid-Meiji era, and clarify how culinary education was treated in that age. For the analysis, articles printed in all 37 volumes of "Hocho-Ambai" (1886 to 1891) and judged to describe the cooking and education of professional cooks in the mid-Meiji era were examined from the viewpoint of gender. The results obtained are described below. Our analysis clarified that a culinary education was provided in "Ho- cho-Ambai" as (1) a culinary education for male cooks, and (2) a culinary education for females to develop into good wives and wise mothers as well as (3) a culinary vocational education for both genders. The third finding is a new discovery. In that age, a culinary vocational education for women who ran self-supporting restaurants was clearly recognized, and the courses of cooking schools proposed by the Society of Food Research included a voca- tional education for both genders. Key word: culinary magazine, art of cooking, culinary education for men and women "Society of Art of Cooking Research ,"1 organized by pro- 1. Introduction fessional practitioners of Japanese cooking under the After the second half of the 1800 s, a concept of at- leadership of Mr. Jihei Ishii, the heir of the cooking inheri- tempting to explain cooking, which had until then been tance of Shijo School, and was linked to the activities of passed down as a skill, using scientific theories came into that society. The author has already published two re- being in Japan. However, attempt to organize the concept ports. In the first report, the author analyzed the cooking of cooking and teach it using a common theoretical sys- theories provided in "Hocho-Ambai," finding that the con- tem began at the earliest in the mid-Meiji era. Although tents of these articles can be divided into five categories. articles about food and nutrition in general and its scien- Unlike other cooking books and magazines published be- tific relationship with cooking appeared randomly in jour- fore it, an attitude of providing people with new informa- nals and books in the early days of the Meiji era, there tion and knowledge about the composition of food and were few articles explaining cooking techniques on the cooking while respecting traditional ways of cooking in basis of a specific theory until the mid-Meiji era (Sugita, Japan was expressed by "Hocho-Ambai" (Sugita, Imai, Imai, and Yamashita, 1997). and Yamashita, 1998). Among others, the point that pro- Enlightenment activities for women began to be active- fessional cooks assumed that their intended readers were ly implemented after about 1885, and many culture maga- women is worthy of attention. In the second report, the zines for women were launched (Food Laboratory, author described features of matters desired by readers Showa Women's University, 1971, 83). Some of these cul- in the eating style of the Meiji era through a comparison ture magazines printed articles concerning food and nu- and analysis of articles contained in two culinary maga- trition as part of a discussion of household management zines published in the Meiji era, namely "Hocho-Ambai" (Food Laboratory, Showa Women's University, 1971, 83- and "Gekkan Kuidoraku." (Gekkan means monthly, 84) . Kuidoraku means gourmet). Here, some changes were Under these circumstances, "Hocho-Ambai" ("Hocho- observed in the role of the housewife and the introduc- Ambai" is Japanese. "Hocho" has several meanings in Jap- tion of modern science into cooking (Imai, 2002). anese. In this case it means "cooking." "Ambai" means Among studies discussing women's enlightenment and "adjusting seasoning to taste") was launched in 1886 as a education in the Meiji era, many discuss the role of culinary magazine. This magazine was published by the housewives from the viewpoint of developing as a good wife and wise mother (Koyama, 1999 ; Koyama, 1991, Fu- * Showa Women's University kaya, 1981 ; Iwahori, 1995) and are accepted as the con- inquiry Showa Women's University ventional opinion. In the past reports by the author, how- 1-7 Taishitou, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, 154-8533 TEL 03 (3411) 5762 FAX 03 (3411) 5209 ever, how the culinary education for housewives in (337) 41 Cookery Sci. Jpn. Vol. 40 No. 5 (2007) "Hocho -Ambai" dealt with this point was not fully exam - Following a suspension of approximately a year and two ined. months, Vol. 37 was published in February 1891. The From the investigations conducted thereafter, it be- publication of Vol. 38 onward has not been confirmed at came clear that articles concerning cooking in "Hocho- present. The magazine was launched in Tokyo, with Vols. Ambai" can be divided into articles that dealt with cook- 1 through 31 edited by Taneju Fujimatsu and published ing from the viewpoint of developing as a good wife and by Bunjiro Fujii2. Thereafter, the publisher changed to Ji- wise mother focused on housewives and articles that are hei Ishii for Vol. 32 onward. From the list of bookstores dealt with cooking from the viewpoint of professional ed- given at the end of each volume of the magazine, it ap- ucation focused on women who engage in the profession pears that there were intended readers not only in To- of cooking. Currently, as far as the author knows, there kyo, but all over the country, including Yokohama, Na- are no studies focused on women who engage in the pro- goya, Osaka, Kanazawa, Nagasaki, Kyoto, and Hakodate. fession of cooking among other studies concerning the It can be inferred from the contents of the articles that culinary education for women in the Meiji era. middle-class housewives and professional cooks were tar- Furthermore, although articles addressed to male geted as the intended readers. cooks have also been dealt with in "Hocho-Ambai" in ad- "Hocho -Ambai" was published in connection with the dition to articles addressed to women, culinary education activities of the Society of Art of Cooking Research , for these professional cooks has not yet been fully exam- founded by Fujimatsu and Ishii, and printed the results of ined. It is necessary to carefully examine articles con- evaluations of dishes prepared during each session of the cerning cooking that focused on male cooks in "Hocho- research society along with various points for cooking Ambai" and clarify the contents of the culinary education dishes, arrangement of tableware, waiting on guests, and for male cooks. etc. Based on these premises, it can be considered that "Ho- In the preface of the inaugural issue of "Hocho-Ambai ," cho-Ambai" provides a culinary education for both men the purpose of publishing the magazine was stated , with and women, so I would like to carefully examine the arti- meals positioned as the most important matter affecting cles in "Hocho-Ambai" concerning cooking in this report our life. It was asserted that lecturing on methods of from the viewpoint of gender, which differs from the cooking has value (Vol. 1, 1)3. In the "General Descrip- viewpoint adopted in previous reports, and clarify the tion," the importance of cooking instruction during the contents of the culinary education provided for both men school education for women is pointed out (Vol. 1, 3)4. and women in "Hocho-Ambai." Various types of cooking ranging from daily dishes at The purpose of this study is to set the record straight home to banquet dishes, Japanese traditional dishes, and about three types of culinary education provided by "Ho- Western and Chinese dishes are then introduced. In addi- cho-Ambai," a culinary magazine published in the mid- tion, a food analysis table is provided (Vol. 1, 4)5• Meiji era, upon closer examination of the magazine : (1) As described above, they express their aims of respect- education for men to become cooks, (2) culinary educa- ing theories (gakuri) while observing traditions of Japa- tion for women based on the common opinion that educa- nese cooking, educating women on the eating life rather tion makes a good wife and a wise mother, and (3) culi- than the clothing life, and deepening research on non- nary education as a vocational education for women who Japanese cooking by introducing a wide range of new are professional cooks. techniques. (When articles from "Hocho-Ambai" are quoted in the 2. Method of study and data following text, only the volume number and page will be ( 1 ) Viewpoint for analysis shown.) Selected articles about cooking and education conduct- In this report, "housewife" refers to a woman who un- ed by professional cooks in the mid-Meiji era from the 37 dertakes household management and manages a home . volumes of "Hocho-Ambai" (1886 to 1891) and scruti- 3. Results and discussion nized such articles from the viewpoint of gender. (2) Significance of "Hocho-Ambai" as data ( 1 ) Purpose and content of culinary education Volumes 1 through 36 of "Hocho-Ambai" were pub- The author and others have already clarified the six lished monthly from December 1886 to December 1889. objectives and contents of culinary education in "Hocho- 42 (338) F,ciiirAtion in the Magazine "Hocho-Ambai" —Enlightenment for Both Men and Women by Cooks— Ambai." Because they are closely related to this study, 3) Articles explaining the characteristics, features, and these six items are described below (Sugita, Imai, uses of various food materials viewed from the stand- Yamashita, 1998, 308)6. These six items are not only the point of cooking (60) objectives of this magazine, but also the objectives of The second category includes articles concerning culi- modern cooking in general.