Dubai's Street Style a New Way to Live

Home , Lagos Fashion Week, Museum of the Orient

LONDON’SSKATEBOARDING: YOUNG ANJAZZ OUTLET STARS DUBAI’S A NEW WAY STREET TO LIVE STYLE REDEFININGFOR PASSION THE IN SOUNDTOKYO AUGUSTJULY 20182018 UAE architecture:How the city smarter, became greener, a canvas more for art inclusive EXPLOREWHERE TO SHEUNG GET DRESSED WAN’S LADDERIN LAGOS, STREETS NIGERIA

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armanibeauty.com 05/06/2018 14:59 THE NEW SENSUALITY

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MANAGING PARTNER & EDITORIAL GROUP EDITOR DIRECTOR OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER IAN FAIRSERVICE GINA JOHNSON [email protected]

GROUP EDITOR SENIOR ART EDITOR ART DIRECTOR DIRECTOR MARK EVANS GEORGINA LAVERS OLGA PETROFF CLARKWIN CRUZ [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

DIGITAL EDITORIAL EDITORIAL ANIMATOR ASSISTANT ASSISTANT SURAJIT DUTTA LONDRESA FLORES AARTI SAUNDALKAR [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS Iain Akerman, Christopher Beanland, Emma Coiler, Ben East, Sarah Freeman, Stefan Hottinger-Behmer, Nobuo Iseki, Dom Joly, David Monteith Hodge, Joe Mortimer, Gareth Rees, Tom Saater, Sean Williams. Cover: Abir Mnasria and Zaina Khayyat of The Attic Design Studio

GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION CHIEF COMMERCIAL GROUP SALES PRODUCTION MANAGER OFFICER MANAGER SUNIL KUMAR R MURALI KRISHNAN ANTHONY MILNE MICHAEL UNDERDOWN [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION SENIOR SALES SENIOR SALES MANAGER MANAGER MANAGER BINU PURANDARAN MURALI NARAYANAN JAMIE O’LOANE [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES EDITOR DEPUTY EDITOR MANNA TALIB CATHERINE FREEMAN

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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Glass is greener AUGUST 2018 As Kermit says, it’s not easy being green – but a new crop of architects and projects within the UAE is proving eco-consciousness is the way forward for the nation

13 55 73 Global Dubai Emirates

Experience 14 My UAE: A multicultural hub 56 Latest news 74 Stay: London to Cape Town 16 Sheikh Zayed, the man 66 Inside Emirates: Redesigning an Travel essentials: Sunglasses 24 What is 5G, and how will it affect our aircraft 76 Dom Joly: Travel like Tintin 26 lives? 68 Destination: Prague 78 Dispatch: Coding with Berlin’s Taste: The wellness restaurants UAE Smart Gate 80 refugees 29 of Dubai 70 Route maps 82 Lunch with: Matteo Trentin 32 The fleet 88 Neighbourhood: Alcântara 36 Celebrity directions: Ronaldinho’s Get dressed in Lagos 42 guide to Rio 90 Tokyo’s instinctive skaters 48

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Raja Ampat Islands, West Papua

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An impressive panorama of a tranquil sanctuary

We should explore, because the universe we live in is a wondrous place, with endless surprises to behold. Some exposed and some hidden, and you can glance at these treasures in Raja Ampat. A pristine archipelago blessed with panoramic views above and below the horizon. Witness a stunning paradise free from view-blocking skyscrapers, concrete jungles and crowded traﬃc. A whole new level of sensory indulgence is waiting to be experienced. The tantalizing dishes, ethereal landscapes and exquisite cultures makes Indonesia a perfect destination full of limitless discoveries. Travel and rejoice beyond the boundaries and enjoy the charm of our magniﬁcent land.

Scan our QR code to explore inﬁnite amazement from Indonesia.

www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel Indonesia.Travel indtravel 11

EDITOR’S NOTE Georgina Lavers, Editor

FAR FROM NOTHING

August is meant to be a time for what the Italians call la dolce far niente – the act of doing nothing. Not that you’d know it from this issue. Athletes are omnipresent: you can read Ronaldinho’s guide to Rio, how pro rider Matteo Trentin returned to glory after both breaking his back and crashing into a bear (nobody said cycling was easy), as well as see some beautiful images of Tokyo’s skateboarders from local photographer Nobuo Iseki. This dynamism is not only present in sporting pursuits. Berlin resident Sean Williams sends a dispatch from the multikulti capital, where refugees are equipped with programming languages such as Python at the ReDI School of Digital Integration, an education centre tooling new arrivals with the skills they needed to survive in Ger- many’s new “Silicon Allee”. With an estimated 55,000 open tech jobs on the market currently in the country, it seems a natural fit for both nation and its new arrivals. Last but not least is our cover feature, which details the nascent rise of eco- architecture in the UAE. The accompanying cover art has been created by Abir Mnasria and Zaina Khayyat, a local design duo who forage in the desert for local flora and fauna FOLLOW US to use for sculpture and illustration. Their dreamscape of a green UAE is both inspirational, and whimsical. facebook.com/ openskiesmag Enjoy the issue. twitter.com/ openskiesmag

instagram.com/ openskiesmag

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Global

EXPERIENCE ° STAY ° DISPATCH ° ESSENTIALS ° NEIGHBOURHOOD ° LUNCH WITH

A different side to Lisbon The Alcântara neighbourhood in the Portuguese capital may not be the most picturesque, but vintage trams, Asian art and Angolan nightclubs ensure an ecelectic visit. p.36

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The Plan

EVENTS TO AIM FOR THIS MONTH

INNER AND OUTER SPACE, UNTIL AUGUST 31

Kenny Scharf One of the first artists to bring street culture into contemporary art as part of the famed East Village scene in early 1980s New York, Kenny Scharf’s new exhibition at Leila Heller Gallery in Dubai features everything from imagined creatures to discarded television sets

INTERVIEW: BEN EAST

Many of the works in this exhibition It’s interesting that you’re exhibiting a think plastic waste is one of the biggest are created by letting paint drip. What painting called Petroleumonsters in the problems we face. It’s interesting, every interested you about that process? United Arab Emirates. discarded plastic object has a story; who Because it uses gravity, the way paint I did ask the gallery if it was ok that a played with these toys, who was watching runs echoes the natural world – and of lot of my work is concerned about the the shows on that old television. That’s course it’s a very 1960s aesthetic too. I fear of petroleum ruining the earth. kinda cool. like to flirt with all the different art move- Which I firmly believe. But that was fine There was a high profile exhibition at ments of the 20th century, including with them and for me it has been a re- MoMA in New York this year about the animation and cartoons, pop art, abstract ally good experience to exhibit in the East Village Art Scene from 1978-83 of expressionism, surrealism. I’m kind of UAE – I’ve been blown away by Dubai. which you were a key part. How did that mixing them up – I call it sloppy style. As for the environmental content of my make you feel? It’s not just an abstract idea, is it? You paintings, I don’t insist the viewer thinks The show at MoMA was called Club 57, want these colourful paintings to say about these things, I offer them beauty, which was back then a venue for music, something about the way we treat our colour, fun and good energy. If that’s film and art exhibitions in the basement world. all they want to look at that’s fine. But of a church. I kept reminding people Yeah, I’m putting content into abstract if they choose to look closer, there’s a that we were still in the basement, con- expressionism, which is usually an ab- depth to the work. temporary art hasn’t let us upstairs yet. solute no-no! Whenever you’re not sup- Looking closer, one can see that some- But that’s cool. I’m 60 years old and very posed to do something, it always seems times your “canvas” is old television proud of my past and the mentality of like a lot more fun to me. I’m looking for sets or plastic toys. what became our own school of art. But the physical beauty of paint and painting I’ve been making art of out of plastic gar- I’m not nostalgic, I feel urgency about and the joy of it, yet I’m very concerned bage since the 1980s and people said I was what I’m doing right now. for our world. a freak for using that material. But I just Dubai, UAE. leilahellergallery.com

Kenny Scharf’s new exhibition is on until the end of August in Alserkal Avenue, Dubai

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AUGUST 18-SEPTEMBER 2 ASIAN GAMES Only the Olympics is a bigger multisport event; this two week festival of Asian athleticism has certainly gone from strength to strength since the first Games in 1951 and now features an incredible 462 events in 40 disciplines (including, intriguingly, e-sports). Jakarta and Palembang co-host in Indonesia, under the apt motto “Energy Of Asia”. Jakarta & Palembang, Indonesia. asiangames2018.id PHOTO: EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE SOCIETY EDINBURGH FESTIVAL PHOTO:

AUGUST 3-27 AUGUST 19-24 AUGUST 26-30

FRINGE HAJJ VM WORLD The incredible amount of cutting- The famous pilgrimage to Mecca, VM World is yet another tech con- edge new theatre and comedy at the most holy city in Islam, must be ference, but as it brings together all the month-long cultural jamboree performed by all Muslims who are the big players in the digital market- that is the Edinburgh Festival Fringe physically and financially capable, at place – up to 20,000 of them – it’s reaches record levels this year, with least once. Its spiritual significance effectively one of the best places to 3,548 shows. It’s not just what you is underlined by the holy rituals, which see, appreciate and learn how digital see but where you see it: venues include walking anti-clockwise seven technology is driving innovation – include a “pianodrome” comprising times around the Kaaba, journeying and changing the entire way we view 55 recycled pianos and a comedy between the Safa and Marwah hills, the world. Consider it the go-to show club hosted in a chicken coop. and holding a vigil on Mount Arafat. for IT infrastructure. Edinburgh, Scotland. edfringe.com Mecca, Saudi Arabia. Las Vegas, US. vmworld.com

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SOUTH AFRICA 30.5595° S, 22.9375° E PRICE: FROM $678 PER NIGHT

The archetype of art hotels, Ellerman House FROM THE (ART) CONCIERGE in Cape Town is home to South Africa’s most Zeitz Museum extensive private art collection Located in the V&A Waterfront’s historic Grain Silo, the Zeitz Mu- seum of Contemporary Art Af- rica (MOCAA) is the continent’s largest art museum. Spanning A night at the museum over nine floors, it showcases a renowned collection of cutting- edge artworks and installations WORDS: S. HOTTINGER BEHMER from across Africa.

Eclectica Thought-provoking contemporary African art fills the carefully curated spaces of this art and design gallery located in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Bo-Kaap. Experimen- tal works and project-based exhibitions will excite art afi- cionados all year round.

Art Route Tailor-made art tours to the city’s fine art establishments, curated by Ellerman’s very own art expert Talita Swarts. Expect exclusive access to the best galleries, artist stu- dios and show spaces in and around Cape Town.

For 25 years Ellerman House has held the ery, where periodically changing displays top spot as Cape Town’s most exclusive act as a mirror to the country’s political boutique hotel. Situated in the prestigious and social state of affairs. Few hotels are suburb of Bantry Bay, a mere 10 minutes able to offer dedicated art walks through BANTRY BAY from the hustle and bustle of central Cape their premises, but to view the more than Just outside of the lively suburb Town, this Cape Edwardian mansion with 1,000 works at Ellerman House, a guided of Sea Point, perched on the its immaculate terraced lawns is the desti- tour is a necessity. It comes courtesy of the rocks overlooking the Atlantic nation of choice for those in search of se- hotel’s very own art historian Talita Swarts, Ocean is one of South Africa’s clusion and privacy. But its main jewel in who shares her expertise with guests to swankiest bays on the Atlantic Seaboard. The modish beaches the crown, is that it is home to South Afri- contextualise a collection that spans over of Clifton and Saunders Rocks ca’s most notable private art collection. two centuries and is spread across the are just a short stroll away, and An in-house gallery of modern African property’s common areas, 11 rooms, two restaurants and quaint bou- works by young artists pushing bounda- suites and two private villas. tiques are dotted throughout the ries is a major draw of this eclectic sleep- Ellerman.co.za neighbourhood.

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Artworks span the traditional (Thomas Bowler), to the contemporary Emirates operates three non- (Lionel Smith and stop daily services to Cape Town William Kentridge) with the Boeing 777-300ER.

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LONDON 51.5074° N, 0.1278° W PRICE: FROM $220 PER NIGHT

The Pilgrm is a characterful and THE NEIGHBOURHOOD cleverly conceived boutique hotel just Paddington’s cultural stock a few steps from London Paddington is finally rising Paddington is one of London’s best-known neighbourhoods, home to Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s Making London Paddington – the station where the Brown family discovers Paddington Bear Paddington cool in Michael Bond’s well-loved books – and St Mary’s Hospi- tal, where Alexander Fleming WORDS: GARETH REES discovered penicillin. But it has never been cool. Thanks to an ongoing multi-million pound regeneration, that is starting to change. It boasts Floating Pocket Park, London’s first floating park; Kerb Paddington, a fortnightly street food market; and Pergola Paddington, a two-floor summer hotspot boasting pop-up restaurant and bars and a rooftop garden.

The Pilgrm’s primary selling point is un- thanks to lovingly restored original features doubtedly its proximity to one of London’s such as the lobby’s timber staircase and major transport hubs: just a one-minute reclaimed parquet flooring. With large sash walk from Paddington, you can arrive by windows and cast-iron radiators, the rooms overground without facing a potentially are the epitome of understated style. The hellish schlep across London. There is, of lounge offers breakfast, lunch and dinner course, a lot more to recommend this 73- menus created by talented head chef Sara room boutique property. The team behind Lewis (formerly of Bruno Loubet’s Grain The Pilgrm describe it as a “considered re- Store), and an impressive cocktail menu.

interpretation of a traditional hotel”. What If you want a midnight snack, there are LONDON that means is that it has been designed with communal pantries on every floor. the needs of its target clientele in mind The Café – a quiet spot to enjoy an es- – the sort of entrepreneurial, stylish and presso and thumb through the carefully well-travelled individuals who frequent The curated selection of independent titles in Frontline Club and Monocle’s Kioskafé, just the well-stocked magazine rack – takes the Emirates offers 10 daily round the corner on Norfolk Place. place of a traditional reception, with guests flights between Dubai and Taking the place of several Victorian encouraged to check in and check out on- three different London air- buildings on Norfolk Square, The Pilgrm line. It’s a bold and refreshing touch that ports: Stansted, Gatwick has retained its period character and charm, contributes to a seamless guest experience. and Heathrow.

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DESIGNED AND HANDCRAFTED IN FRANCE BOUTIQUE 354 RUE SAINT-HONORÉ PARIS +33 1 40 13 64 04 CORNER PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN / CÉLINE MARKET CARLTON HOTEL CANNES 20 / GLOBAL / WHERE TO STAY

SHANGHAI 31.2304° N, 121.4737° E PRICE: FROM $450 PER NIGHT

The Middle House, downtown Shanghai’s new OLD SHANGHAI Modern Shanghai fades away kid on the block, conceals a world of artistic amid the low-rise structures of wonders behind its dark façade the city’s traditional neighbourhoods, where community life plays out against the backdrop of shikumen-style buildings. Wandering along passageways For the media criss-crossed with bicycles and birdcages, you’ll get a glimpse of real life in Shanghai. Al- darlings of Shanghai though many neighbourhoods are being flattened to make way for modern developments, WORDS: JOE MORTIMER a handful are being awarded protected status.

FROM THE CONCIERGE See The Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre charts a visual history of 20th century Chinese propaganda through 6,000 original posters.

Do Take a cycling tour of the near- by French Concession and look out for Art Deco architecture as you pedal down quiet roads lined by plane trees.

Eat Head chef Tony Ye runs a tight ship at Sui Tang Li, where As the newest member of Swire Hotels’ The Playful touches abound: a thick tasselled Shanghainese, Sichuan and House Collective, The Middle House had cord called ‘Mr. Goodnight’ hangs next to the Cantonese cuisines are fused in beautiful small plates. instant cachet when it opened in Shanghai bed (give it a gentle tug and all the lights go earlier this year. An outpost of Café Gray out) and in the residential tower, an abacus Deluxe, the oh so stylish restaurant at The Up- made from tiny porcelain dim sum hints at the per House in Hong Kong, gave further cause importance of both food and math in China. for pause among Shanghai’s inner circle. The 3,760-piece Venetian chandelier that Italian architect and designer Pierro Lis- hangs above the lobby is one of 680 artworks soni has created a moody homage to Chinese on display; and artistry is fundamental at culture, with bamboo-effect walls laid in viv- Chinese restaurant Sui Tang Li, where cock- id emerald-coloured tiles, black staircases tails are served in antique vessels. up-lit by hidden lights and 111 guestrooms Like its sister hotels in Hong Kong, SHANGHAI imbued with a decidedly masculine ambi- Beijing and Chengdu, The Middle House is an ance. Dark polished marble bathrooms with instant classic, whose sleek proposition has deep, free-standing tubs look out towards the already earned the affection of Shanghai’s traditional shikumen houses of Shanghai’s scenesters. Though different to its siblings, Emirates operates two Jing’an district, while details like vintage it’s clearly one of the family; a suave young non-stop daily A380 ser- speakers create a sophisticated residential upstart that creatives will clamour to mingle vices between Dubai and quality in the understated ‘Studio 70’ room. in when visiting the city. Shanghai.

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MARVEL IN THE MYSTERIES OF

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Pristine, picturesque and perfect. Surrounded by turquoise waters, the island of Mauritius offers an idyllic getaway with lush green mountains, white sandy beaches and luxurious resorts.

Mauritius, an award winning tourist destination, will enthrall you with over a Follow us: hundred land and sea based leisure activities. A paradise to rejuvenate your mind, body and soul and also making you feel one with nature.

Mauritius is a blend of the past and present, welcoming every visitor for a www.tourism-mauritius.mu memorable breathtaking experience. 22 / MY DUBAI / WHERE TO STAY

DUBAI 25.2048° N, 55.2708° E PRICE: FROM $299 PER NIGHT

The Address Downtown has reopened FROM THE CONCIERGE after two years. What’s new for the Eat mall-centric property? At Em Sherif, the menu-less Leb- anese restaurant where waiters warn you to prepare yourself for the onslaught of dishes. Or the Katana Robata and Sushi Bar, Rebuilding an LA/Japan transplant.

See an institution The fountain display, obviously – and look out for the clever light displays on periodically at the WORDS: GEORGINA LAVERS Burj Khalifa.

Do Take a cycle ride around Burj Park, or La Mer seafront is just a 20-minute cab ride away.

Starting again is no mean feat, especially in Dining options are extensive, from the Dubai, oft-quoted as unquenchable in its Californian snacks in the lobby at Zeta, thirst for the new. For The Address Down- robatayaki-style cuisine at Katana, or the town, a stone’s throw (literally) from Dubai popular steakhouse chain STK. Mall and an institution for the majority of The in-house restaurant on the 6th tourists passing through the emirate, re- floor, simply called The Restaurant, is de- building was an admirable achievement. signed in the style of a French salon. Prices The process took two years, with the fin- are reasonable, and standouts include the DUBAI ished result a luxe, pared-back offering that ribeye and aubergine starter, flavoured with is primed for its second life. labneh and sumac. The biggest draw to the hotel is undoubt- The much-loved Calabar is gone, but in edly its location, something that it makes its place are a variety of other lounges, from the most of. A 20-second walkway leads into a cigar bar open til 2am, to the re-vamped the mall, while the majority of suites offer Neos, a self-described “ultra-luxury” lounge the classic view of the Dubai Fountain. on the 63rd floor. Five interlinking infinity Meyer Davis and SSH were in charge of pools circle the ground floor, with the high- the new-look interiors, and their refinement light being deck chairs that seem to float For more on Dubai’s world is felt throughout. Rooms are luxurious with- atop the water. It may be quiet now, but The class hotels check out the out being excessive, with appreciated touches Address’ success is virtually guaranteed by Dubai Hotels podcast on such as Dyson hairdryers. its proximity to tourist hotspots. ice channel 1905.

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When a building is iconic, it forever becomes representative of the soul of the city. One Africa place is 21 floors of naturally lit artistic expression in one of the most premium locations in Nairobi. A home for the business of the future.

For enquiries contact: Anthony Havelock [email protected] +254 727 099 364 24 / GLOBAL / TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

The sunglasses A voice-controlled, Bluetooth- connected offering from California

WORDS: SEAN WILLIAMS

Think your rose-tinted Ray-Bans are a modern phenomenon? Con- sider Nero, the 1st-century Roman emperor, who according to historian Pliny the Elder wore glasses with emerald lenses to watch blood- soaked gladiatorial combat with a green-tinted backdrop. Sunglasses, however, have stayed strong ever since, whether in the form of John Lennon’s ethereal round frames, Dirty Harry’s tough- guy Wayfarers, or Audrey Heburn’s cat-eye Oliver Goldsmith’s. The Viper can play Each pair is lightweight You can give it voice Seeing in stark sunlight isn’t music, take phone calls (50g) and sweat commands: “Play enough for today’s connected and connect to A.I and weather resistant music”, “Is it raining?” world. What you need is a pair of sunglasses that reflects your cutting-edge tech taste, in addition to cus on noise around you – meaning sirable in the style department (yes harmful UV rays. you won’t accidentally get knocked you, Google Glass), the Viper is a Enter the Zungle Viper, a model down by that tuk-tuk/taxi/tram pleasingly chunky and classic de- far less Miami Vice than its name rolling up behind you. sign. Embrace them; for no one can suggests. Each pair has powerful And while other tech/glass hear you stream. inbuilt speakers and a 5.0 Blue- mashups have been less than de- From $120, zungleinc.com tooth wireless connection: perfect for those struggling to wear both glasses and headphones on holiday. With the Viper, sound conducts through your cheekbones into your

ears. This may sound creepy, but it (1) (2) (3) means your eardrums are free to fo-

BRIGHT SPOTS Three places where you’ll definitely need sunglasses

1. MATHURA, INDIA 2. LAS VEGAS, US 3. REYKJAVIK, ICELAND This ancient city near Delhi, thought to be Sin City’s famed neon lights have enjoyed Iceland’s piebald capital is the northern- Vishnu’s birthplace, is arguably the best a recent upgrade – cementing the destina- most in the world: during the summer place to witness the Holi festival, when tion as one of very few places it’s accept- solstice in June, the sun doesn’t set until revellers celebrate spring’s arrival by coat- able to wear sunglasses at night. If all the a few minutes past midnight – and rises ing each other in brightly-coloured paint. neon on Vegas’ strip was laid end-to-end, again three hours later. Which means that Festivities start in mid-January at the it would be 15,000 miles long: enough to wearing sunglasses might not just be cool, time of Makar Sankranti. get to Tokyo, its neon cousin, three times. but a vital way to get some sleep.

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K 26 / GLOBAL / COLUMN

BELGIUM

50.8503° N, 4.3517° E

Travels with Tintin Why this Belgian cartoon character has inspired some of Dom Joly’s The reason I travel can be reduced to one My favourite Tintin moment how- most epic travel name: Tintin. Most of you must know the ever, was when I made a documentary adventures to date adventures of the young Belgian reporter, on him for Channel 4. To get into the the creation of Hergé – a genius and one spirit of things, I dyed my hair ginger for your list when you are asked to name and donned similar-looking clothing to five famous Belgians. As a boy I had a map the boy reporter. Frankly, I looked like on my bedroom wall and I put a pin in Tintin after a mid-life crisis. Of course, every place that Tintin visited, swearing Tintin was always accompanied by his that I would do the same. dog, Snowy, a white wire fox terrier. I have finally done it. My last trip was We were filming in Brussels and my pro- to the Congo where, in true Tintin style, I duction team found someone who would was trying to find out more about a sup- rent us such a dog. We were about two posed monster that lived in a remote and hours into filming when the rain started. perfectly circular lake in the north of the After about 10 minutes, something very country. The monster was known as the strange happened – our Snowy started to Mkele M’bembe (“the blocker of rivers”) change colour. and although I’m sad to report that I did It soon became apparent that the not find him, I was tied to a tree by an an- owners, in an attempt to make some quick gry group of villagers who threatened to money, had unbeknownst to us, dyed the finish off my travelling once and for all. It poor dog white for our filming purposes. didn’t matter though, as with Tintin, it’s The Belgian rain was rapidly reverting the adventure that is the story and I man- him to his original colour. We were down aged to escape to tell the tale. a little alley in the centre of Brussels and, It was like when I went to the Hima- as we wondered what to do a police car layas looking for the Yeti. I felt almost at drove past. It slowed down as it reached home in Kathmandu as it was so similar the entrance to the alley and the police- to what I’d seen in Tintin in Tibet (even man looked down. Who knows what he though he was in Nepal). I trekked up to thought as he spotted an out of shape Tin- Everest Base Camp, actually found some tin, crouched beside a bedraggled Snowy Yeti footprints and felt very pleased with dripping white dye onto the alley floor? I myself. I decided against an actual ascent think it was too much for him as he gave Emirates offers twice daily Boe- of the mountain – even adventurers have the scene a second glance, shook his head ing 777 service between Dubai their limits, and besides, Tintin didn’t do and drove on. There are some things too and Brussels. it, so why should I? surreal for even a Belgian policeman.

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GLOBAL / DISPATCH / 29

A student Around 1.5 million refugees have arrived in Germany showcases her project at the since Angela Merkel opened the country’s borders in ReDI school. The programme 2015. With many heading to Berlin, one school in the struggled to recruit females multikulti capital is teaching newcomers how to make initially it in one of the world’s up-and-coming tech hubs

WORDS:SEAN WILLIAMS A new, more inclusive “Silicon Allee”

At the height of Europe’s migrant crisis, Anne Kjaer Riechert headed to a refugee camp outside Berlin and happened upon Mohammed, a young computer engineer grad from Baghdad University. He was stuck, laptop-less, worrying his skills would decay irreparably. Angela Merkel had thrown open Germany’s borders to those fleeing war and destitution in Syria, Iraq, Afghani- stan and other troubled states, and Ger- mans had responded similarly: flooding camps with clothing, teddy bears and other household items. It was an act of misplaced kindness. “It was out of the goodness of their hearts,” says Riechert, smiling warmly. “But it’s not a long-term solution.” Riechert, a Dane whose own family fled fascism in the thirties, saw an

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(2)

(1)

1, 3. Students participate in a three-month programme taught by volunteers, all professionals in the digital industry 2. Graduates of the programme. There are an estimated 55,000 open tech jobs in Germany 4, 5. The school has been acknowledged by figures including Mark Zuckerberg and Angela Merkel

opportunity. Germany has been suf- social entrepreneurship scene, and has 1989. ReDI’s own building, a sprawling, fering from a chronic talent shortfall: connected dozens of refugees with start- magnolia-bricked office block in Berlin’s 42,000 tech posts went unfilled in 2016. ups and multinationals across Germany. central Mitte district, was built during Surely there were far more Mohammeds, Berlin was the perfect place to found an even darker period of the city’s his- Riechert thought, that could contribute ReDI, Riechert says: “The city has a sto- tory, in 1934. That is just a year after to the economy of their new home. ry of social change, and how it can come Riechert’s own family fled persecution That year Riechert and co-founder literally overnight with the Berlin Wall in northern Germany. They were pacifist Fadi Zaim founded the ReDI School of being built, and also falling down. It’s owners of a printing press, and angered Digital Integration, an education centre a multinational city, and still relatively the ascendent Nazi regime. After sever- tooling new arrivals with the skills they cheap and affordable… if it was in Lon- al stints in prison, they headed for the needed to survive in Germany’s tech in- don, it would be a different story.” Danish border. dustry. Open places at the centre filled In the past decade, Berlin has lever- “Thankfully I’m here today because quickly, helped by international press aged cultural appeal into tech success. they were welcomed in Denmark and generated by names like Mark Zuck- Now known colloquially as “Silicon given the opportunity to work there,” erberg, who stopped by in the school’s Allee”, it is home to a host of big firms says Riechert. “That has inspired me.” early days. “Dealing with the refugee including Delivery Hero, Zalando and Not all of ReDI’s students are refu- crisis is a huge challenge, and it is inspir- N26. Berlin also leads the world in digi- gees, but most have witnessed the de- ing to see people creating opportunities tal integration projects, providing half of struction of war. Syrian Hussam Soufi, through technology,” he said. all such programmes in the world. 25, grew up in Abu Dhabi and arrived in Two years later, with over 500 grad- Just outside ReDI’s window is a Germany last winter. But he had no mon- uates and a flourishing women’s pro- memorial to the Berlin Wall, which ey. The only room he could find was so gramme, ReDI is a stalwart of the capital’s cleaved the city in two between 1961 and small that his arms hit both walls when

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comes so personal,” she says. “It’s like a big family.” One of them is Rita, a 32-year-old Syrian telecommunications expert who left Damascus in search of gender equal- ity. “One of the advantages here, is that with your personality and skills you can go a long way,” she says. “In Syria it’s not (3) so fair, and it wasn’t so easy to get where I did. Here, if you have the potential, you can make it.” When Rita first arrived in Germa- ny she worked a litany of low-paid and semi-legal jobs, from dishwasher to bot- (4) tle collector. Having completed ReDI’s cybersecurity course, she now has a paid internship at Cisco, one of the world’s biggest tech companies. “I travelled because, as a woman, [Syr- ia] is not a place you want to be,” she says. “I deserve much better, and now I have it. Coming here to Germany made me shake my ideas and my horizons. I want to learn a lot of things: ReDI has provided this.” This February ReDI opened a centre in Munich, Germany’s third-largest city. It could have spread its message more quickly, says Riechert, but she and her team want to “nail it before we scale it,” she says. “We’re in the business of hope. (5) And when you’re building hope and ex- pectation with the students who come here, it’s really important that they come he changed shirts. First he sold blood, country. Firms help fund the school, and and get a high-quality experience.” then sperm – then, finally, he underwent receive skilled graduates in return. Next up is a kids’ programme. “Ref- the painful procedure to sell his bone The school is also keen to onboard ugee children have a huge opportunity marrow. “It felt like your nails scratching female students, and last April road- if they’re able to go through this mas- the window,” he says. “I thought, this is tested a women’s programme that is now sive change early in their lives,” says the lowest point of my life.” in full swing. Edlira Kasaj is ReDI’s dig- Riechert. “They are becoming poly- Soufi joined ReDI on a friend’s ad- ital women programme director, whose glots… I want to build them up so they vice. He’d studied IT in Syria but had passion for the school is fervent. have a strong sense of confidence, and never heard of (programming language) “I wanted to do something for wom- that they can use that to overcome the Python, or the Internet of Things (IoT) – en in tech, because I’m a woman in tech challenges they do have. They have the the connectivity of devices via the Web. and I feel like I’ve been the only woman opportunity to become future leaders.” “I didn’t know what AI stood for,” he says. in the room for years,” she says, refer- The migrant crisis is here to stay. “I had no idea.” Soufi studied ReDI’s IoT encing an industry that, despite protes- So is ReDI. Riechert is bullish about the course. He’s now in its second stage, and tations of modernity, suffers a yawning school’s future. It has been a huge trip has job offers from big tech firms. He gender gap. Bringing women into ReDI for her, personally. But to see the human now has an apartment in which he can hasn’t been easy, says Kasaj, comment- potential, and see it flourish on a daily change clothes comfortably. “I wouldn’t ing that cultural expectations often basis, she says: “That gives me so much.” be able to do all this without ReDI,” he mean that women are quieter, less con- says. “I will always owe them.” fident and less technically versed than ReDI is not simply doing refugees their male counterparts. Emirates serves four destinations in a favour: there are now 55,000 open That has not deterred Kasaj, and 80 Germany – Frankfurt, Munich, Hamburg tech jobs on the market currently in the women now study on her course. “It be- and Düsseldorf.

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Matteo Trentin

Carb-loading with the pro cyclist that came back from a broken back

WORDS: BEN EAST

Through clouds of dust, bikes can just tin suffered a compression fracture of do have more confidence in yourself of about be made out, strewn across an his spine, he is contemplating starting course, and you see the team giving 100 unpaved road where bodies lie prone the gruelling Vuelta de Espana later this per cent to you, which motivates you to on the cold ground of Northern France. month with his team Mitchelton-Scott. do a little bit more. But at the end of the Crashes are a part of professional road All 3,271km and 21 days of it, from Mala- race only one guy can win, and it’s not cycling, particularly at the famous Par- ga to Madrid. It would be quite an under- always you. We are all at a high level. So is-Roubaix one-day race, where riders taking so soon after any serious injury, it’s a kind of relief when you win, actual- must navigate multiple sections cov- but a broken back? It feels almost aston- ly. You put yourself under a lot of mental ered in rough terrain and cobblestones. ishing. Not for Trentin. “I couldn’t even pressure, you concentrate so much in the Most of the time, they get up and carry bend forwards to start with, but it’s fine final 20km that a bee can fly past and you on, dirtied, bloodied. Not for nothing is now,” he says matter of factly, in between follow exactly where it goes. Honestly.” the race dubbed ‘The Hell of the North’. choosing his favourite dishes for both of We stop to marvel at Trentin’s fa- But the Italian sprinter Matteo Trentin us. “I needed to sit on the sofa a bit, and vourite dish, typical of the Trentino doesn’t get up. He can’t get up, in fact, respect the recovery plan, so that when I region, with soft egg, local spinach, because he has broken his back. started training it was the right time.” cheese, truffles and creamed potatoes “I knew it straight away, I felt the Perhaps there’s also a small part of given a modern twist by the spectacu- crack in my body,” he says now, staring Trentin that feels he has a reputation to lar Michelin-starred cooking of Stefano at the beautiful Italian Dolomites where maintain. After all, at last year’s Vuelta Ghetta. Trentin has earned it – he’s al- he’s from and often trains, and which de Espana this powerfully fast cyclist ready ridden 100km around the moun- form a stunning backdrop for L Chimpl, won a hugely impressive four stages, tains this morning – but it’s rich, and I his favourite restaurant in Vigo di Fassa. joining an elite club of riders such as wonder how dining like this matches up “I was riding and suddenly, boom! The Chris Froome, Mark Cavendish and Ed- with training for a three-week bike race. bike slipped away from me. I couldn’t do die Merckx to win stages at all three of He passes on the bread, at least. anything, I couldn’t get out of the way. the famous Grand Tours; La Vuelta, the “Well, a rider like me doesn’t have to For the seconds I was on the ground I was Giro D’Italia and the Tour De France. The follow a diet to be super skinny because not only worried my career was over, but moment he hit the front on the very last I’m not a climber,” he explains. “But I still that my life would change completely. stage in Madrid last year he was in that need to be careful; too much of anything “But then I saw I could move my legs prized zone so many athletes dream of is never good. It’s about balance and so it would probably be ok,” he brightens. reaching: complete confidence in his adapting yourself; in a three week Grand “You know… this happens in cycling.” own ability. Almost invincible. “No, no- Tour you lose weight for the first two Incredibly, just four months after Tren- body’s invincible,” he counters. “You weeks because of the aerobic effort and

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then in the last week you actually gain at the highest level. That was when the Tour” loved how he had to be at 100 per it because the body goes into protection hard work and the hard miles on the cent every day to contend for victory. mode and you start to store water.” road really started. And in the chaos of a sprint finish, During the races, all the cooking is “But the level of dedication didn’t with competing riders reaching speeds of by the team chefs, which makes for some surprise me,” he says. “I always say if nearly 80km/h, touching wheels and even amusing cultural and culinary differenc- you are a professional cyclist, you love elbowing each other out of the way, you es. As a part of the Belgian team Quick to cycle. If you don’t have that passion certainly have to be at your best to win. Step Floors for over six years, he came to you would never be able to ride six, sev- “If you watch it on television it looks realise that Belgians are crazy not only for en hours, in the rain or in the heat. For crazy, and you think that riders must peanut butter but Sirop de Liege. example, at the Italian championships surely crash into each other,” he explains. “I had no idea what it was, some kind this year it was incredibly hot. I got a lit- “But when you are inside the race it’s of marmalade made from apples, pears tle heat stroke but several riders passed like everything is like slow motion. For and dates, I think,” he laughs. “But it was the finish line and collapsed. When us sprinters it’s like The Matrix. The last on every table for every meal. And now something like that happens you have kilometre might take only 90 seconds but I’m with Mitchelton-Scott, an Australi- to have the passion to jump on the bike in my head it’s five minutes, and maybe an team, they eat tons of coconut butter. again the next day.” that’s the same for any fast sport, there’s a Everywhere – in pasta, on bread, in rice. I Quick Step Floors was the perfect slowness of thought you need.” actually like the taste but not all the time!” home for Trentin as he was learning As for an instinct, for being in the right Trentin’s move from Quick Step his trade. It’s one of cycling’s many nu- place at the right time, Trentin muses: Floors to Mitchelton-Scott at the end ances that there are professional teams of last season was his first change of who don’t specialise in riders who win team since turning professional in 2010. Grand Tours outright – there are no Chris Quick Step had spotted him as a young Froome rivals in the Belgian team. But hopeful and seen him win a lot of races: they do consistently win individual stages “When you see you can win, it becomes and one day races - more so than anyone Trentin currently races addictive,” he says – and eventually else - and Trentin, who by his own ad- with Mitchelton-Scott, an gave him a test to see if he could cut it mission “will never contend for a Grand Australian pro team

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Porcini risotto from Michelin-starred chef, Stefano Ghetta

“I don’t think so, its more impulse. Instinct suggests you’re not thinking specifically about what you’re doing, but when you’re sprinting for the line, everything is calculated. Put it like this, the focus is wide, but detailed. You see someone moving and you move somewhere else.” Still, it must be difficult to stick to your team’s plan when the likes of multiple winner Mark Cavendish or world champion Peter Sagan are also making their moves at speed. “You have to have confidence in your Then he crashed into a bear in California. team to get you in the right place, and if some- Trentin rolls his eyes. thing goes wrong with that, you then have to “I was coming down a hill at 50km/h, and understand who the best person is to follow. this little bear was eating near a garden,” he This is all happening in a matter of seconds. laughs. “Some dogs started chasing him, L Chimpl But you know at the start of the race who is and he ran away the moment I was coming. I pedalling well, just by looking at them. clipped his bottom with a pedal and went fly- BILL Over a remarkable risotto with figs, mush- ing over my handlebars. 2 Uovo soffice di Tamion, spinaci, cuore de rooms and blue cheese, Trentin tells me of the “The bear was alright, but I wasn’t. My Fassa, patata e tartufo time he beat Peter Sagan, cycling’s bone fide helmet was destroyed. But I was pretty wor- (soft egg, spinach, rock’n’roll star, in a photo finish at the Tour ried because you don’t want to be hanging cheese, truffles and de France in 2014. It meant a great deal to the around when there’s a bear loose. If he started creamed potatoes) €17 Italian; he calls Sagan a “one in a million cham- to howl in pain you can be sure that the mum- 2 Risotto porcini, pion, an icon for the sport.” In his house is a my grizzly will be along soon. They can run fichi e Golden Gel €18 framed picture of that photo finish, which Sa- at 50km/hr themselves; you’d have to pedal gan signed. It says a lot about the camaraderie pretty hard to get away!” TOTAL: €70 in the sport and the respect they have for one You’d be pretty confident Trentin could another. Trentin says he often goes out training do it, of course, but on this occasion he called with the likes of Philippe Gilbert and Filippo his girlfriend – former professional Alpine Pozzato; opponents in the race but friends off it. skier Claudia Morandini – and asked her to And perhaps, like Sagan, Trentin will be pick him up. Not before he’d posted about his able to count himself as one of cycling’s seri- experience on Instagram… and swiftly be- al winners in the years to come. He is 29 this come, as he puts it “the joke of the region.” month; relatively young in the sport, which It’s this kind of story that makes Trentin made the crash in the Paris-Roubaix race ear- so likeable. His home town has a Matteo Tren- lier this year so frustrating. After winning in tin fanclub which follows him to races and the nearly every race he entered towards the end owner of L Chimpl, Katia, shows me her col- of 2017: “when I started I just couldn’t stop” lection of signed posters in the office, telling – the move to Mitchelton-Scott coincided Matteo he’d better win again at La Vuelta so with a definite sense Trentin was not only she can put another one up. Emirates serves four approaching his sporting prime, but would be “I’d love that,” he smiles. “Between ‘I can destinations in Italy – leading his new team’s charge for one-day vic- do it’ and ‘I will do it’ is a pretty big gap, but I’d Rome, Milan, Venice tories and sprint wins at stage races. love to be back in the winning mood.” and Bologna.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD ALCÂNTARA, LISBON 38.7126° N, 9.1816° W

It may not have the postcard allure of Lisbon’s other bairros, but few districts can match Alcântara’s diversity Alcântara, Lisbon

WORDS AND IMAGES: SARAH FREEMAN

OS_082018.P36-41_Neighbour_Lisbon.indd 36 7/24/18 7:00 PM Pestana Palace Hotel is known for its coffered ceilings, romantic frescoes and ornate ironwork

Sandwiched between Cais do Sodré and Belém in Lisbon’s southwestern corner, this former outlying suburb of farms and palaces is now a bonafide bairro (neighbourhood) of the city. Granted, it is not as picturesque as Alfama or Mouraria, but Alcântara’s charm lies in its diversity. You can find everything from vintage trams and Asian art, to Fado Music Houses and artisan bak- eries here, as well as the Portuguese capital’s archetypal terracotta rooftops and blush pink buildings. Old and new converge on streets like Rua 1º de Maio, where azulejo-clad buildings (the city’s famous ceramic tiles) juxtapose with murals by resident sprayers Vhils and Bordalo II. Whether you’re exploring north of the railway track, in Alcântara-Terra, or Alcântara-Mar (the riverside zone), chances are you’ll be in the shadow of have been reimagined as upscale res- START Golden Gate-lookalike, 25 de Abril. Fit- taurants like Doca Peixe and superclub tingly, the bairro’s name derives from Lux, co-owned by John Malkovich. For PESTANA PALACE HOTEL the Arabic word al-qantara, meaning some cultural diversity and an alterna- bridge. Lisbon’s quaint 19th-century yel- tive night out, leave the marina behind The King of Spain, Madonna and Mick low trams that trundle along Alcântara’s for Avenida da Índia and Rua Cascais in Jagger have all fallen for the old-world Rua Cascais, together with its burgeon- Alcântara-Terra. The city’s 13,000 Ango- charms of this restored palace, built by ing startup community, also recall the lan population has spawned a cluster of a cocoa and coffee baron. Nestled in the Golden City. The spirit of “New Lisbon” nightclubs at this intersection, includ- sprawling grounds of a century-old es- is encapsulated in social spaces such as ing Luanda and Mwangolé, where you tate, the hotel and National Monument is LX Factory, the Village Underground can experience kuduro, an up-tempo a 19th century vision of coffered ceilings, and the district’s crop of creative labs. Angolan style of music. romantic frescoes and ornate ironwork. LX Factory, built on the site of a vast You can breakfast like a king in its ornate fabric plant and printing press, also conservatory (with a live pianist for com- serves as a portal to Alcântara’s indus- pany), or dine on chocolate-covered foie trial past. Metal stampers, tanneries, gras in Valle Flôr, its ballroom restaurant. chemical and porcelain factories flour- Guests transition from old to new in the ished here until deindustrialisation 177 modern-wing guestrooms, accessed brought the area to its knees in the mid via two glass bridges that snake through 1980s. A decade later the working-class its subtropical gardens. For the ultimate bairro underwent a facelift and the old palatial stay, splurge US$1,500 on one of port of Santo Amaro Docks (Lisbon’s the four royal suites housed in Pestana’s second largest marina), catalysed Alcân- original building. tara-Mar’s regeneration. Known locally R. Jau 54, 1300-312 Lisboa, +351 21 361 as ‘Docas’, its waterfront warehouses 1 5600. pestanapalacelisbon.com

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VILLAGE UNDERGROUND

A hotspot for Lisbon’s new wave of start- ups and popular brunch destination, Village Underground isn’t just another clichéd cluster of up-cycled shipping 2 containers. Home to 35 or so co-work- A FIVE-MINUTE TAXI ing spaces for creatives, the open-air complex boasts a recording studio, CARRIS MUSEUM skate ramp and warehouse exhibition space. Hop on board its repurposed dou- Admire horse drawn carriages, vintage ble-decker bus (without even leaving buses and the city’s iconic yellow tim- its municipal tram yard base) for a DIY ber-lined streetcars at this eccentric ‘Buzz brunch’ of oven baked eggs served museum located in the Carris tram de- up in an iron skillet, and a bottomless pot at Santo Amaro. supply of Portuguese pastries. Rua Primeiro de Maio 101, 1300-472 Lis- R. 1º de Maio 103, 1300-472 Lisboa, +351 boa, +351 21 361 3087. museu.carris.pt 21 583 2469. vulisboa.com

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A SEVEN-MINUTE WALK

LX FACTORY

A post-industrial stage set with a Brook- lyn-esque vibe sums up this achingly hip gastro-shopping hub on the grounds of one of Lisbon’s most prosperous textile factories. The machinery and threads are long gone, replaced by artist studi- os, home grown boutiques, street art by Lisbon native Bordalo II, and a slew of trendy eateries. You can ethically shop for Portuguese cork accessories at Rutz, get a trim at old-timey salon The Bar- ber Factory, or savour a few ales under the arches of 25 de Abril Bridge at Café na Fábrica. Call in at labyrinthian Ler Devagar, a retired printing press turned DID YOU KNOW temple to literature that has beautiful Throughout the summer months you can floor-to-ceiling bookshelves. sit back and enjoy live Fado performances R. Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300-501 on trams 18, 25 and 28 4 Lisboa, +351 21 314 3399. lxfactory.com

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DID YOU KNOW A FIVE-MINUTE TAXI As well as couriering nobility from the Tagus River to the Necessidades Palace, Quimera Brewpub’s storied carriage QUIMERA BREWPUB tunnel was allegedly the last King of Portugal’s escape route in 1910 5 You’d be hard pushed to find a beer hall in the city more atmospheric than this converted 18th-century carriage tunnel, originally built for the Royal Chivalry. Chef and artisanal brewer, Adam Heller, is one half of the Amer- ican-Brazilian duo behind the city’s second brewpub, Quimera. They offer a full line up of brews from tank to tap, including small-batch experimental beers that Heller yields with wild yeast grains in the basement. Their de- li-style pairing menu of New York-style sandwiches, and cold cuts with select beers is no-nonsense but delicious. Try the Pastrami made with cured beef braised in Stout beer, served on sour- dough from artisanal neighbourhood bakery, Gelba. Rua Prior do Crato 6, 1350-261 Lisboa, +351 916 926 746. quimerabrewpub.com

A TWELVE-MINUTE TAXI Alfama, and Belem’s age of discoveries, aboard a stylish 46-foot sailing vessel. LISBON SIGHT SAILING You can choose to party or just sightsee, with the Moorish Castle of São Jorge, 6 There are few better ways to romanti- the serpentine-like MAAT (Museum of cize Lisbon’s rich maritime heritage, Art, Architecture and Technology) and than from the water. Setting sail from lemon-hued Praça do Comércio just a Alcântara’s Santo Amaro Docks, this few of the tour’s highlights. three-hour-long trip along the Tagus Doca de Santo Amaro, 1350-353 Lisboa, river takes in Lisbon’s oldest district, +351 21 605 1078. lisbonsightsailing.com

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VIEWPOINT OF ALVITO

It’s no secret that Lisbon is well en- dowed with miradouros (viewpoints), but few are as crowdless as this one. Make a pilgrimage here at sundown, for an unobstructed panorama of Tagus river, the 25 de Abril Bridge and the city’s Rio-inspired, Cristo Rei statue. Just past the intersection of Estrada Alvito and Estrada Estrangeira, Lisboa

A FIVE-MINUTE WALK

MUSEUM OF THE ORIENT

7 Portugal’s historic ties with the Far East are brought to life under the cav- ernous roof of this dried cod warehouse turned haven for Asian art. Thankful- ly, all traces of bacalhau (a Portuguese staple) were extinguished in the heritage building’s €30 million conversion in 2008. Rare artifacts, from Samurai armor and Namban art, to ritual masks and Indian puppet theatres, are show- cased in its vast “Portuguese Presence ALCÂNTARA in Asia” and “Gods of Asia” permanent collections. Like the idea of digesting art to an operatic soundtrack? Check out the second floor’s exuberant “Chi- nese Opera” exhibit, which runs till mid September. Emirates offers twice daily service Av. Brasília 352, 1350-279 Lisboa, +351 21 between Dubai and Lisbon with the 358 5200. museudooriente.pt Boeing 777-300ER.

OS_082018.P36-41_Neighbour_Lisbon.indd 41 7/24/18 7:01 PM A WORDS: SEAN WILLIAMS D IMAGES: TOM SAATER; EDWIN OKOLO I R E

A B O U N D S

Lagos is becoming a fashion powerhouse – and not just on the catwalk. Changing trends have transformed Africa’s largest city, with young Nigerians being drawn away from traditional tailors or Western fashions and toward a glut of homegrown, high-end stores.

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Lagos doesn’t do understatement. From Located on Lagos’ upmarket Victo- Folawiyo wanted Alara to change graffitied danfo buses that ferry millions ria Island, Alara (which means “won- Lagosians’ attitudes to fashion. Years up and down its spleen-shaped centre drous performer” in Yoruba, the city’s before, most locals preferred to visit daily, to myriad brightly-painted bars dominant language) looks alien from its giant, open-air markets, or, if they were and cafes, it is pandemonium in tech- drab, mid-century surroundings. wealthy, to hire tailors of traditional nicolour: somewhere that, unlike New The red-painted, multi-floored con- styles, such as Aso Ebi, which com- York, truly never sleeps. cept store, launched by entrepreneur bines piebald head-wraps with peplum With 21 million inhabitants, it should Reni Folawiyo in 2015, is an attraction dresses, or Adire, meaning ‘tie and dye’, come as no surprise that Lagos is a cult- in its own right. Visitors are flanked by whereby patterns are created using ural powerhouse. From Afrobeats to Nol- row upon row of enthralling fashion stitching, or by using chicken feathers lywood, both movie and music industries and furniture, most of which is local, to paint cassava paste onto fabric. have taken their place on a world stage. while an adjoining restaurant serves Edwin Okolo, a fashion designer and But in the past decade or so, it is some of the most creative and well-ex- writer who lives in Lagos, believes Alara fashion that has come to the fore. ecuted dishes anywhere in the region. has shifted sartorial attitudes in the city. But the foundations for its success, he claims, were laid many years previous. For decades Lagos was an arts epi- centre. Music, from the Afrobeats of Fela Kuti to experimental electro-funk by William Onyeabor thrilled crowds worldwide. When democracy returned, Nigeria’s movie industry boomed: by the mid-2000s Nollywood, centred in Lagos, was the second most prolific on earth behind India’s Bollywood. Most of Nollywood’s biggest stars lived in Lagos. In 2006 celebrity blog Bella Naija, riffing off a patriotic name for the country, was launched. People began taking notice of stars’ style. De- signers wanted to dress them. “(We were) about six or seven years into our democracy,” says Okolo. “So the upper-middle class had arrived. They had spending power, malls were coming into the country… people started to gravitate towards the brands.” For the vast majority of Lagosians it was still Western brands like Prada and Moschino that carried the greatest cultural capital. In 2007, that began to change. That year the Arise (shorthand for “Africa Rises”) Fashion Week arrived in Lagos. It welcomed world-renowned designers and models to Nigeria including Grace Bol and Ozwald Boateng. “It really gave Nigeria a taste of fashion weeks,” says Okolo. This year Arise returned to the city after a six-year hiatus. It has been joined Trendy Lagosians once visited tra- Amaka Osakwe at New by Lagos Fashion Week, founded in 2011, ditional tailors or sought out high-end York Fashion Week, 2018. which is now Nigeria’s premier fashion Western fashions. Now, they are start- International attention has event. Social media platforms like In- helped boost local appetite ing to look to a new generation of hip, stagram democratised and accelerated for homegrown brands local designers who are shifting the the scene, bringing yet more outside goalposts of style. It’s a mark of Nige- awareness. This year supermodel Naomi ria’s recent economic progress – and it’s Campbell visited, championing the coun- changing the face of Lagos forever. try’s designers and calling for the publi-

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cation of a Vogue Africa. “It was so much Nigeria, with a population of 186 more than a supermodel appearance. It million and by far Africa’s largest GDP, signified international recognition for is unmistakably the continent’s fash- Lagos, arguably Africa’s fashion capital, ion capital. Elle South Africa’s fashion and also for the wider African fashion in- editor is Nigerian Dimeji Alara, and so dustry,” said Mazzi Odu, founder of style dominant is the country’s scene that site Magnus Oculus. many Africans now complain the in- Among Nigeria’s most exciting de- dustry is being “Nigerianised”. signers is Amaka Osakwe, who found- Creating a truly Nigerian scene ed the brand Maki Oh in 2010. In 2013 is something that drives WAFFLES- then-US First Lady Michelle Obama NCREAM, a skate shop and fashion wore one of Osakwe’s chiffon blouses brand located above a nondescript row during a state tour of South Africa. It of shops on Victoria Island. Its walls are announced Maki Oh on the world stage. Osakwe has joined a number of young Nigerian designers exploring the space between traditional and modern tailoring techniques, including Kenneth LAGOS’ TOP Ize, Lisa Folawiyo and Deola Sagoe. The FASHION HAUNTS result is often bright, and lurid, and un- A piece by Edwin Okolo. The designer Alara mistakably Nigerian. “To me, it’s not and writer believes the arrival of an upper- This giant, red-and-black about modern contrasting with the tra- middle class in the ‘00s paved the way for box-shaped concept store ditional,” Osakwe said recently. “They go contemporary fashion in the country is the premier stockist of top-line Nigerian designers. hand in hand. It’s about making sure the Home to clothing, acces- traditions in my culture don’t die.” sories, jewellery and home Design success on the international furnishing, its eponymous stage, however, does not mean an au- Five years ago, when Yegwa Ukpo restaurant and bar serves tomatic change in the buying habits of founded Stranger, a fashion boutique incredible African fusion Nigerians. Many still favour high-end and coffee shop in Lagos’ upmarket dishes – and cocktails. clothing from Europe and the US, with Lekki neighbourhood, he favoured rare 12a Akin Olugbade Street, other middle-class Nigerians preferring foreign brands like Yohji Yamamoto Victoria Island, Lagos +234 909 685 2076. to call a local tailor versed in the coun- and Comme des Garcons. As the store alaralagos.com try’s traditional styles. matured, and Nigerians studying at “Seventy per cent of Nigerians fashion houses abroad began to grad- prefer to visit Aso Ebi tailors to make uate and come home, he changed tack. Stranger Lagos made-to-fit outfits for them, than pay “Bluntly, the expertise for training A sleekly designed store some ridiculous amount to foreign and critical thinking… here is not so ro- and café home to Nigerian brands,” says Badaru-Atoyebi Modupe, bust, so it’s good when people trained and international menswear, accessories and local editor of website The Aso Ebi Junkie. in England, Germany, America, Japan, artwork. Cool collection, and While Lagos’ heightened interest whatever, are now coming back here and the filter coffee is fantastic. in fashion has fuelled an increase in trying to figure out what we can do with 3 Hakeem Dickson Street, the number of traditional tailors, ex- locally available materials,” he says. Lekki Phase 1, Lagos perts worry the market is being flood- You’d barely recognise Stranger +234 1 295 7665. ed by low-end work, creating a dearth among Lekki’s large, barely-finished strangerlagos.com of skilled practitioners. Modupe wants homes. Inside it’s a Tardis of top-line more tailors to travel west and follow clothing, leather goods and artwork. Grey Velvet the trend of Nigeria’s famous designers. Once grungy, it is now decked out like A chain of retailers all in Uju Lilian Ikegbune, of Lagos-based a Parisian boutique. “There is a real Lagos and Abuja, that offers co-sewing space 360 Creative Hub, ad- fusion between Western styles and local a wide range of Nigerian mits that the lack of skilled tailors is styles,” says Ukpo. designers alongside an “issue plaguing the fashion indus- The global fashion industry is now international brands. Great try.” Her space, which incubates young worth over $2.4trn. Africa’s own portion for exploring some of the brands and teaches tailoring skills, is try- of that is reckoned to be around $31bn, country’s most exciting young fashion names. ing to change that at grassroots level. 360 just 1.3 per cent of that total. But with Two locations in Lagos: runs “training aimed at improving and designers flourishing, and local e-com- Centro Lekki Mall and Ikeja orientating tailors toward adhering to merce sites like Fashpa, Jumia and City Mall excellent work, commitment to job com- Konga beginning to thrive, this figure is +234 808 058 6477. pletion and delivering on time,” she adds. expected to rise considerably. greyvelvetstores.com

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Right: Yegwa Ukpo, founder of Stranger, prefers local designers to have trained abroad Bottom right: The Lagos fashion scene includes creatives from a variety of fields

lined with black and white photos and multicoloured skateboards that give away its status as the ground zero of Nigeria’s first skate crew. The brand, which designs shirts, hats, pins and boards, began a decade back, when a few friends ran a skate tour from Leeds to London. But they began getting more interest in Nigeria, so they came home. Despite Lagos’ size it is still difficult to find good spots to skate, says Bai Joiner, a model and skater with the team. But a culture is brewing. “When you’re in a country like this that doesn’t really have much of a community, you just have these little dots of skateboarding happening,” Joiner says. “But what we’ve done is started connecting those dots.” Now WAFFLESNCREAM is pushing for Lagos’ first proper skate park. “Look; we exist and this has positive effects on people,” Joiner adds. “We are forming these communities of people who are not just into skateboarding but more than likely into other creative fields.” Ukpo sees fashion as a way for Lagos to compound a cultural dominance it has been building relentlessly since 1999. Decades before, you came to Lagos “as your entry point to Africa: black culture, black excellence,” he says. “Then we had a military government so that changed. But now Nigerian athletes, musicians, writers being out there, there’s interest in what is happening in this country that’s producing all this culture. “We’re definitely getting there as a source of creative energy.”

Emirates offers twice daily service to Lagos with the Boeing 777-300ER.

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Right: A designer works in the studio at skate shop WAFFLES- NCREAM

Bottom right: Customers of WAFFLES- NCREAM. Locals are slowly coming around to high-end homegrown brands, say designers

OS_082018.P42-47_LagosFashion_no-tiling.indd 47 7/26/18 10:54 AM How skateboarders

Tokyo

OS_082018.P48-52_Tokyo Skateboarding.indd 48 7/24/18 7:03 PM their

made mark

WORDS: RONAN O’CONNELL PHOTOS: NOBUO ISEKI

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Their pavements are busier, their surfaces are rougher, and their guards are stricter. nowhere near the ’64 menu, but two This is how, against all odds, Tokyo’s years from now, the sport that Tokyo’s skaters have created their own explosive security guards so desperately try and expel from the streets will be making scene, set under a Olympic backdrop its Olympic debut in the city. There is a quid pro pro apect to its inclusion. While the Olympics wants to capitalise apan is a country that places a high on the immense popularity the sport value on quiet and order. People queue has gained outside of any structured with the patience of monks, don’t speak setting – skateboarding will be looking J on their phones on public transport, to leverage the mega-event to boost its and diligently carry their rubbish until own reputation. From its infancy back a bin is found. Yet here we are, in Tokyo, immersed in in the ‘70s the sport has grappled with bedlam. Bodies are flying in every direction, moving negative stereotypes, becoming associ- to a cacophonous soundtrack of sugoi! (awesome), as ated – rightly or wrongly – with rebel- well as fair bit of banging, crashing and yelling. In lion and vandalism. The influence of this moment, the strict rules of Japanese society have These stereotypes have made it American culture, evaporated. It is Saturday afternoon and Komazawa hard for skateboarding to be accepted which began to Skate Park is heaving. in a city as neat and organised as To- take root amid the The 1964 Olympics are the reason this skate park kyo, says local skater Shodai Baba. To- Japanese youth in the ‘90s, influenced local exists, but the upcoming Tokyo Games in 2020 help kyo residents are so accustomed to the fashion and music as explain why it is so packed today. Skateboarding was city’s peaceful, orderly environment much as skating that they are perturbed by the cha- otic nature of skateboarding. “In the parks is ok but if you want to skate on the street, which is easy to do in other countries, it causes a lot of problems,” he says behind the counter at Stormy, Tokyo’s oldest skate shop.

Above: Shodai Baba Right: From Komazawa Park to Murasaki – with its giant 14-foot vert ramp – a spate of skate parks opened over the last few years have allowed skaters to hone their skills off the streets

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Opened in 1977, Stormy has long been a magnet for Tokyo skaters. In the early days, it quickly accrued a near-ec- clesiastical following, as the only space for the city’s tiny community. Now, Tokyo is considered one of the world’s leading skating cities, known primarily for its instinctive, talented youth. Skaters as young as 30 fondly rem- inisce about travelling all over the city as a teenager, searching for new skating spots. There were a few deterrents: a lack of dedicated parks in Tokyo meant boarders had to use streetscapes as their apparatus. Security were especially strict, with skaters constantly on the lookout for guards as they navigated the city by kerb, bench, wall, or stairs. Instead of becoming phased by these

Far from the easy cruising roads of Los Angeles, Tokyo’s street skaters have had to adapt to rougher, more uneven surfaces

obstacles, the young skaters adapted. Travelling at night when the streets were quieter and guards asleep allowed them to hone their tricks, with rough surfaces making them sure-footed and hardy at increasingly young ages. A serious scene started to develop in the city. Photos and videos of elite Japanese skaters started to get expo- sure in the Western media, and professional skaters from the US and Europe began visiting the city to film their own exploits. The 2020 Olympics may just be the event that finally makes Tokyo a true global skateboarding capital. That would be just fine with Shodai. As op- posed to other cities across the world where local skaters are infamously ter- ritorial, Tokyo’s skate scene can’t wait to grow. “We want more of everything – more skaters, more parks, more shops. “Tokyo is ready. We want to be like a skating heaven.”

Tokyo’s reputation as a skate destination grew quickly from the mid- noughties; locals say by then it was no longer unusual to see Western skaters cruising through the streets

OS_082018.P48-52_Tokyo Skateboarding.indd 52 7/24/18 7:03 PM Smile all the stay.

Welcome to the new LUX* Grand Gaube, a totally reimagined retro-chic tropical retreat in Mauritius. What’s Next?

MAURITIUS • RÉUNION • MALDIVES • CHINA • TURKEY • VIETNAM • U.A.E • ITALY

LUX_Emirates_Issue Aug18_Eng.indd 1 7/18/18 9:44 AM Tourism 2018_OS FP.pdf 1 7/23/18 11:55 AM Dubai

MY UAE ° ECO-ARCHITECTURE ° SHEIKH ZAYED ° EXPO 2020 DUBAI ° EATING WELL

Understanding hardship From the age of eight, Sheikh Zayed lived with his maternal grandfather among the Bani Yas tribe of Al Ain. Through it all, he never forgot the trials that were part and parcel of a desert Bedouin lifestyle p.66

OS_082018.P55_DubaiOpener.indd 55 7/24/18 7:04 PM

The UAE is undoubtedly one of the most multicultural countries in the world. From attitudes toward migration to population breakdown, here’s how it measures up on a global scale

India (27.49%) 2.62 million

Pakistan (12.69%) 1.21 million EXPAT Bangladesh (7.4%) 0.7 million BREAKDOWN Philippines (5.56%) 0.53 million OF THE UAE Iran Total expat population in 2018: (4.76%) 8.45 million 0.454 million

Egypt (4.23%) 0.404 million

Nepal (3.17%) 0.303 million Sri Lanka (3.17%) 0.303 million

China (2.11%) 0.202 million Other countries (17.94%) 1.71 million

OS_082018.P56-57_MyUAE.indd 56 7/24/18 7:04 PM

POPULATION: 9.54M UAE

3.09M DUBAI

Over Say at least 9 in 10 half of their UAE residents circle of agree that it 37% friends are is important from different for people 200 nationalities Nationalities from different live in the UAE nationalities to interact

Annual population growth rate in 2016 (According to the UN, one 2.47% of the steepest in the world) UAE RESIDENTS Population timeline BORN The UAE has the OUTSIDE THE

SECOND 9.54 million

6.89 million COUNTRY

LARGEST 3.15 million number of migrants 2000 50,000 50,000 worldwide as a proportion of the 40,000 2.45M total population 2017 (only outnumbered by the Vatican) 1901 1950s 2000 2008 2018 8.31M 1st 4th 8th 9th UAE world ranking UAE world ranking UAE world UAE world for attitudes toward for flexibility & ranking for social ranking for

SOURCES: THE UN INTERNATIONAL MIGRATION REPORT 2017; WORLD COMPETITIVENESS YEARBOOK 2017; THE NATIONAL; FEDERAL COMPETITIVENESS AND STATISTICS AUTHORITY (FCSA) AUTHORITY AND STATISTICS FEDERAL COMPETITIVENESS THE NATIONAL; YEARBOOK 2017; 2017; WORLD COMPETITIVENESS REPORT MIGRATION THE UN INTERNATIONAL SOURCES: globalisation adaptability responsibility social cohesion

OS_082018.P56-57_MyUAE.indd 57 7/24/18 7:04 PM OS_082018.P58-65_GreenArchitecture.indd 58 7/24/18 7:05 PM THE MIDDLE EAST’S How green could the UAE really be? With a renewed desire for ecological sustainability and the credentials to back it up, a new breed of architects are slowly turning over a new leaf in the country RADICAL GREEN DESIGNS

WORDS: GEORGINA LAVERS

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a subsidiary of state-owned Mubadala spacecraft, and a new kind of evapora- Development Company. Created in order tor for water desalination. to both diversify beyond oil and become In the city itself is a range of corpo- This is the stuff a leader in renewable and clean tech, rates – Siemens Middle East is based Wan is the head of city design manage- there, as is General Electric and Mitsu- of sci-fi. Terracotta walls punched with ment for the sustainable real estate sec- bishi – and it also acts as the head- tiny square windows curve sinuously tion of the firm. He is demonstrating how quarters of the International Re- around paths, and a hedgehog-shaped the effects of radiant heat can be coun- newable Energy Agency (IRENA), a building curls up against the heat. There teracted not using any complex techno- 158-member community whose mis- are giant wind towers, open plazas that logy, but a few simple measures that sion is to “support countries in their funnel into miniscule walkways, and have existed in the UAE since it was a transition to a sustainable energy fu- seemingly random gusts of wind that can cluster of tribal communities: the use of ture.” Buildings are backed up by lo- blow an unprepared visitor off course. shade, of wind, and of sunlight. cal and international accreditations.

Building work started on Masdar City in 2008. Currently, it occupies 200,000 square feet of land in Abu Dhabi

Amidst this surreal landscape, Since 2006, the renewable ener- Siemens Middle East is certified with Chris Wan crouches on the floor, beam- gy company has separated into three LEED, the most widely used green ing. “You feel this?” he gestures, patting business units including Masdar Clean building rating system in the world: the stone animatedly. “It’s 40 degrees Energy, Masdar City, and Masdar Cap- in its first year of operation, the office outside. But this is not burning.” ital, and topped off by Khalifa Univer- celebrated saving 63 per cent and 52 This is Masdar City, an urban dream- sity of Science and Technology, whose per cent of energy and water con- scape in Abu Dhabi brought (partly) current active projects include devel- sumption respectively, compared to to life over the last 12 years by Masdar, oping solar cells that can be used on a standard Abu Dhabi office building.

OS_082018.P58-65_GreenArchitecture.indd 60 7/24/18 7:05 PM EMIRATES_Eng.pdf 1 18/07/2018 10:36

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Global gathering of pension funds, sovereign wealth funds, private investors, policy makers and private equity firms

Accelerated capital investment with co-financing and co-guarantee opportunities 62

L-R: A reading pavilion conceived by SvenM; minimal intervention at Al Ghurair University; a wind tower in Masdar City, inspired by the traditional Arabic barjeel

The project still has a way to go – “LEED and Estidama are very important from. This is passive design,” he says. of a proposed 3.7 million feet, only but not the be-all and end-all,” says Wan, Wan describes how the courtyard – so 200,000 is built on and occupied – but referencing the international and local important in the culturally private back- it is just one example of the prolifera- accreditations for green buildings. ground of the emirates – also acts as a tion of eco-architecture that has taken Working with Foster and Partners, cooling system. The optimum angle for place in the region over the last decade. the original master planners to study how the sun hitting the top edge of a building? the previous residents of Abu Dhabi lived 35 degrees. Too high a building and – with no air conditioning, no automatic too small a courtyard mean the heat is blinds – helped them develop the passive trapped – too low a building and too wide design that became the crux of the city. of a courtyard, there is no shade. To consider “We don’t want huge massive win- “If you look at us on Google maps, we dows that let in loads of heat. We don’t don’t follow the same grid as our neigh- the UAE’s attitude to architecture, one want a window, or a doorway, to face bours. It seems to be, in fact, very arbi- first must go back in time. Elie Mrad is the sun. Buildings must be close to- trary,” says Wan. “But we are oriented like the head of architecture for Arcadia Mid- gether to create shade, and you must this to capture the wind coming from the dle East, which is currently work on de- understand where the wind is coming northwest, and going to the southeast.” veloping the first phase of the mammoth Aljada project in Sharjah. Estimated to spread over 24 million square feet, the team employed Zaha Hadid Architects to design the central hub, a typical Hadidian mod- ernist creation of water droplet-shaped buildings. The most interesting aspect of the project is its adherence to sikka, the pathways used by communities in the Middle East to create shaded pas- sage, and to help funnel windflow. “Al Khan is the oldest part of Shar- jah and these are the oldest villas,” says Mrad, pulling out an aerial recreation of the ancient villages that used to pepper the emirate’s coasts. “They aren’t there any more, but what we’ve done is repli- cate this typeology, and to use it in a contemporary way in our own development.” Similarly at Masdar, ancient Arabic techniques are used to significant effect.

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CMY

K 64

Zaha Hadid Architects designed the Aljada project in Sharjah, a sprawling complex estimated to cover 24 million square feet.

The waves of migration into the mountains to desert. The question then country, from Egyptian to Lebanese, becomes, how do you create opportuni- Russians to Azerbaijanis, created an ar- ties beyond off-roading in 4x4s?” chitectural diversity where every type Bagherian describes the efforts of of project was considered, every kind of several projects – still in planning phas- national style imprinted. Aesthetically it es – to become conservation zones rather was somewhat of a mishmash; ecologi- than just hotels. “Education is the biggest cally, unconsidered. A changed yet cohe- part of eco-tourism, and it goes beyond sive mindset will be an important part of reusing towels in the bathroom. How is developing a coherent eco-minded typo- the food produced? Can it be made by logy in the country, agree architects. local farmers? Is furniture locally made, are paintings by local artists? Are there activities that represent the culture of the region, such as falconry displays?” Sustainable City is one effort with- Baharash Bagherian in Dubai to create a truly eco-minded, utopian suburb. Walking around the is the founder of Baharash Architecture. community, the feeling is of a Middle Involved in the second phase of Sustain- Eastern eco-utopia. able City, as well as plans for eco-resorts Its biodomes are filled with herbs across the UAE, he states that the typical that residents can take away (with a thrill-seeking adventures visitors to the voucher system: even loyalty is assumed country indulge in, can impact people’s in the City), donkeys graze quietly in the perception of the country. shade, and healthy-looking residents jog “People think eco-tourism can only past with pushchairs and Apple watches. exist in places like Costa Rica, but there Atop each of the houses’ roofs is a so- is so much variance in the topography lar panel, and inside UV reflective paint of the UAE, from its wadis to oceans, and insulation cut down on air condi-

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adds Mueller. “Someone who has a project that they are looking into building should have this core aspiration first of all: to be aware that they are going to create a carbon footprint here, but that there are measures to reduce the harm. They should be curious about how they can achieve that.” This can be possible. Mueller speaks positively about a project undertaken for Al Ghurair University. Seeing the chance to transform the space using mi- cro-measures, SvenM sought to occupy as little space and noise as possible in a building continually used by students. “Our designs are all a mix of meas- urements or interventions,” says Muel- ler. “There are a few elements that we Extreme temperatures and an arid add, a few that we remove and a lot that landscape make eco-efficient measures is modified. There is a large curtain wall tricky. There are no dense jungle cano- glass façade at the lobby entrance which pies to provide shading, blustery sand gives a beautiful natural light into the reduces the effectiveness of solar panels, whole building that we want to sustain. and any water feature comes at a cost: We just added large louver structures forget what designers may creatively de- [angled shutters] in front, to protect the scribe as water features with reuse. Says curtain wall from the sun’s direct im- Wan: “How can water be reused in the pact, but to maintain all the light.” summer? The spray just evaporates.” Passive design had its birth in Mies van der Rohe’s Villa Tugendhat in Brno in 1930. It goes beyond modern labels of An aerial view of Sustainable “eco” and “green”, or any formal accred- City, where residents can live partly off the land itations. It is both ancient and modern, For state-of-the-art but its application is vital for the conti- nued eco efforts of the UAE. It will be living within an extreme environment, the architects of the region who will air conditioning is undebatable says drive this change. As Peter Davey of The Sven Mueller, founder of Dubai-based Architectural Review has said: “The en- architectural firm SvenM. “There is no vironment must remain with those who other way to achieve that. It comes back continue to weave everything together: to, how do we protect buildings from an essential way of thinking if we are to these extreme conditions to save ener- survive as a species.” tioning costs. In the outer circles there gy, and how can we produce additional Back at Masdar City, one worker are running tracks, a ring road for vehi- energy to counteract that?” pauses at the plaza, where the venturi cles, even an equestrian centre. The de- There can also be a presumption effect funnels the wind briskly through velopment company, Diamond Developer, that an oil-rich UAE should not need the space. “I don’t even park my car has a plan that extends beyond mere com- to concern itself with building sustain- here in the winter,” she says conspir- fortable living. The team has been engag- ably, adds Yousef Baselaib, Executive atorially, glancing from side to side. ing with academic partners such as Herr- Director of Masdar’s Sustainable Real “It’s way too cold.” iot-Watt and the American Universities of Estate division. Beirut and Cairo, as well as green councils “When we started designing the and initiatives, with the collective goal of project in 2006, that was a big chal- reducing the country’s carbon footprint – lenge, as this concept of sustainable ar- in 2010, ranked the highest in the world. chitecture was not yet addressed in the There are two major challenges to- region,” he says. “We are rich in hydro- wards the advance of eco-architecture carbons now, but we are not looking for within the UAE, architects tend to agree: today – we are looking into the future.” the client-side knowledge gap and the “Most importantly, the client has to physical conditions. feel the wish to be more eco-friendly,”

OS_082018.P58-65_GreenArchitecture_notiling.indd 65 7/26/18 10:56 AM OS_082018.P66-67_SheikhZayed.indd 66 7/24/18 7:06 PM THE YEAR OF ZAYED / 67

Prior to the Federation, Sheikh How a combined Bedouin and royal Zayed travelled upbringing carved a deep-rooted between the emirates in his respect for the hardships of his people attempt to attain his dream of unity. Here, he is accompanied by Zayed, the man Sheikh Ahmed bin Rashid Al Mualla, the then Ruler of Umm Al Quwain, during a visit to the emirate in 1969

WORDS: ZAYED: LIFE OF A GREAT LEADER / BOOKSARABIA.COM

Sheikh Zayed was the youngest of four sons to know the many good qualities that had born to Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed. His grand- defined Zayed the Great, including fairness, father, Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (known generosity and honesty. This laid the founda- as Zayed the Great), had ruled Abu Dhabi tion of the man he would become, well-loved for 54 years, bringing a period of great sta- and respected by his people. bility to the emirate through the respect in Life for most people in Abu Dhabi in which he was held by all the tribes. He died those days was relatively hard. On the coast, in 1909, and over the next two decades, four the men would earn a living from pearl men would serve as ruler – of which Sheikh diving and fishing. Pearling was the main- Sultan was one. stay of the economy, and the pearl diving The Al Nahyan family belongs to the boats would stay out at sea for three or four tribe of Bani Yas, which is considered the months. There was no guarantee of success mother tribe for most of the Arabs that set- – not every crew found pearls, which meant tled in what is known today as the United a very difficult winter lay ahead. Inland, Arab Emirates. The young Sheikh Zayed was hunting was the main activity. As a boy, the raised initially in his father’s home and then young Sheikh was an expert hunter and a at the royal palace at Qasr Al Hosn. He was skilled marksman, although he later gave up only seven years old when he began to sit in hunting in the interests of wildlife conser- his father’s majlis, listening to the conversa- vation. A strong and athletic young man, he tions around him and asking questions. In was an accomplished horseman and loved those turbulent times, Sheikh Sultan was to write poetry about life, love and patriot- concerned for the safety of his family and ism. The Bedouin taught him the art of fal- sent Zayed and two of his brothers to Al Ain conry, which became a lifelong passion. with their mother in 1926. His father’s pres- Sheikh Zayed was very much one of the cience was not without foundation; he was tribe, enduring the hardships that were part assassinated shortly afterwards. and parcel of a desert Bedouin lifestyle. He From the age of eight Sheikh Zayed lived became acutely aware of how they lived and with his maternal grandfather, from the Al loved being among them, and in later life Qubaisat section of the Bani Yas tribe, among he never lost his instinct to stay close to his the Bedouin tribespeople of Al Ain – a sig- people. He came to understand these inde- A total of 10 Emirates air- nificant change from his early years in Abu pendent-minded tribespeople – their abili- craft carry a special ‘Year Dhabi. He would sit in his grandfather’s ma- ty to cooperate in the interests of survival, of Zayed’ livery for 2018. jlis, where he learned first-hand the day-to- their values, their code of honour and their These ‘Year of Zayed’ aircraft have circled the day issues facing the local Bedouin. He also willingness to accept leadership based on globe to over 90 cities on met people there who had known and fought respect. He knew that they could be led, but more than 1,800 flights. alongside his paternal grandfather, and came could never be pushed.

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cial customer to access 5G services in the Middle East, Africa and South Asia (MEASA) region. How will 5G Those 5G services are currently being demonstrated at Expo’s ‘smart site’, thanks to affect your future? its partnership with UAE tele- com provider Etisalat, but will More than just fast downloads, 5G ultimately provide the most networks could revolutionise human advanced digital experiences to millions of visitors and hun- interaction with technology dreds of participants. Those experiences could include supporting smart tickets, tech-enabled volunteers, smart Fifth generation mobile net- which require a constant, guar- food ordering, dynamic crowd works are set to change the way anteed connection. For consum- management, dynamic informa- we interact with and consume ers, 5G will mean the ability to tion on pavilions, and 4K securi- technology, opening up a whole download a movie in seconds, ty cameras (which is more chal- new world of possibilities. while virtual and augmented lenging on a 4G network). About 20 times faster than reality, networked vehicles, in- Early access to 5G servic- 4G, 5G has virtually no latency dustrial automation, and the In- es means Expo 2020 and its A 5G robot mirrors (which means minimal delay or ternet of Things (IoT) will all be partners can test a variety of an operator’s lag), ultra-low energy require- taken to the next level. movements next-generation products and ments, and is set to become a All of the above will be a key doing Japanese services, giving an edge in their fundamental component of au- focus for Expo 2020, which has calligraphy, during respective fields. tonomous self-driving vehicles, become the first major commer- the Mobile World “Becoming the first major Congress 5G commercial customer in the MEASA region is an important milestone for the UAE and Dubai, and supports Expo 2020’s goal to be one of the most connected places on Earth, both physically and virtually,” said Mohammed Alhashmi, Senior Vice President, Innovation and Future Technolo- gy at Expo 2020 Dubai. This significant achievement brings to life Expo 2020’s theme of ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’ more than two years before its gates open in October 2020.

For more, check out the Expo 2020 podcast on ice channel 1901.

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JUMEIRAH MEDICAL CENTRE OPEN NOW ON JUMEIRAH BEACH ROAD

NEW MEDICAL CENTRE IN DUBAI MARINA OPENING SOON

KCH.AE 70 / MY DUBAI / TASTE

WELLNESS RESTAURANTS AROUND THE CITY

Call it the natural conclusion of watching Cowspiracy, or just the city’s embrace of the good life, but the wellness trend is en vogue in Dubai Chinese healing Starting off in life as a centre the lamb rack with pistachio specialising in Chinese and and harissa crust, whilst those homeopathic treatment, the looking to embrace the plant- Dubai Herbal & Treatment based lifestyle should experi- Centre, just off Oud Metha ment with either the delicious Road, has been in Dubai for caprese, with a mozzarella 15 years. They have now in- made out of cashews and co- troduced food into the mix, conut yoghurt, or the signa- with an upstairs restaurant ture salad, served in a garden that focuses on ‘good’ eating. bucket. Downstairs, a variety With gluten free, vegan and of unique treatments are on vegetarian menus on offer, offer, including three types of Menus at the holistic clinic range from there’s something for every- cupping, facial acupuncture, vegetarian and vegan to gluten free one. Those with fairly stand- and ear point treatment. ard eating habits should go for Oud Metha Rd, Dubai.

3 PLACES TO GET HEALTHY Eda Gungor IN DUBAI transformed a villa in Jumeirah to create a From workouts to haven in the city wellness workshops

THE HUNDRED WELLNESS CENTRE Head to Jumeirah 1 for Pilates classes, physiotherapy, home- opathy, body composition ana- lysis, and wellness workshops. There’s a juice bar, too.

URTH BY NABZ Chi vibes at Life’n One A hip and tiny hideaway in JLT Plant-based café Life’n One has quickly be- that bring character to Life’n One. I first spot- that specialises in vegetarian, come a fixture in Dubai, where regulars ted the railroad sleepers in my home country vegan and raw options. Opt swoon over rooftop yoga and a café hidden – I immediately felt the ‘chi’ energy that it for bestselling Buddha Burger, in the garden of a converted villa. Owner Eda holds. I knew I had to have that exact vibe in made from quinoa and oats. Gungor explains why a unique space like this the centre and cafe. is so vital in the city. “As per the initial vision for Life’n One’s F45 TRAINING “I have always been drawn to nature and layout – the idea for a garden was imperative; With positive group training, the elements, where order and straight lines as the centrepiece. All the furniture in the charismatic instructors and cease to exist. This led me to strongly ensure ‘secret garden’ creates an inclusive, warm and dynamic workouts, F45 has be- that Life’n One would really encompass or- friendly setting, and its placement came from come more of a lifestyle than ganic material and objects when feasible. the team’s inner instinct – no interior design, just a gym. There are three stu- When wood is sourced in its more raw no landscape... just pure intuition.” dios dotted around the city. form, there are many beautiful imperfections Jumeirah Beach Road, Jumeirah 1, Dubai.

OS_082018.P70_Taste.indd 70 7/24/18 7:07 PM ABU DHABI SUMMER SEASON 2018 IS HERE! Get ready for awesome shopping deals, hotel and F&B offers including special summer offers by Zomato, the opening of a brand new world attraction, entertainment and fun for the whole family across Abu Dhabi City and Al Ain

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NEWS ° INSIDE EMIRATES ° DESTINATION ° UAE SMART GATE ° ROUTE MAP ° FLEET

New loyalties Emirates Skywards has officially become the loyalty programme of both Emirates airline and flydubai. p.74

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3D VR tech on emirates.com

First-time customers of Emirates who want to as Google Cardboard, compatible with all devices. The 3D seat learn more about the fleet can now do so in 3D, The 3D seat models have been created in model is a by using new web virtual reality (VR) technology partnership with Renacen, who were awarded the visualisation engine of the introduced on its digital platform. Emirates Crystal Cabin for this particular project. interiors of the has become the first airline to introduce the Customers accessing emirates.com on a A380 and the technology, which offers a 3D, 360-degree view desktop or mobile device, or the Emirates app, will Boeing 777 of the interior of the Emirates A380 and the also be able to explore their seats before checking Emirates Boeing 777. It will give customers a in online with the 3D seat map. The tool allows chance to explore their seats, the spacious cabin customers to navigate from one seat to another, and the Emirates onboard product. and even allows would-be customers to book their The high-quality 3D-generated graphics offer preferred seats from within the 3D environment. an outstanding render that is close to reality, The immersive experience is now available and views of the cabins also feature a virtual for the three class Emirates A380 but will soon reality element for a more immersive experience. include renderings of Emirates’ entire fleet, Customers can enjoy hands-free cabin navigation including all configurations of the A380 and and seat selection by using any VR headset such Boeing 777 aircraft.

AN EXCLUSIVE PASS TO DUBAI PARKS AND RESORTS Emirates has partnered with Dubai Parks and Resorts to offer its customers special privileges to Dubai’s theme parks. Emirates customers can enjoy a special bundle offer with added value at Dubai Parks and Resorts, the largest integrated theme park destination in the region, when they purchase a two-day entry pass. The pass gives them access to the Hollywood-inspired Motiongate Dubai, Bollywood Parks Dubai, Legoland Dubai and Legoland Water Park. “Our aim is to offer all our guests an amazing experience and we have joined forces with Emirates to now create an unmatched travel and entertainment option for Dubai residents and visitors,” said Mohamed Almulla, the CEO and Managing Director of DXB Entertainments, PJSC, owner of Dubai Parks and Resorts. “This partnership perfectly ties in with our aim to reach a wider global audience.” Customers with an existing Emirates booking can simply go to the ‘manage your booking’ tab on emirates.com to book the two-day entry to Dubai Parks and Resorts. A pass to visit any of the four parks over two days is AED495 for adults and AED435 for children.

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MORE CHOICE WHEN YOU TRAVEL SUMMER JUST GOT Emirates has enhanced its service to for connectivity on Emirates’ global COOLER WITH A FREE Luanda and Moscow, increasing the network, especially to destinations in ICE CREAM SERVICE connection between Dubai and the Asia, the US and Europe. FROM EMIRATES Angolan capital to five flights per week, Emirates already flies twice daily to and introducing a third daily service Domodedovo and daily to St Petersburg between Moscow’s Domodedovo but demand for travel has grown Airport (DME). significantly over recent years, leading to the airline’s launch of a third flight to Moscow. Emirates has been serving the Russian market since July 2003. The flights to Luanda will be operated by a Boeing 777-300ER with eight seats in First Class, 42 in The increased capacity to Luanda Business Class and 310 in Economy Emirates is serving began on 1 July, with customers able Class. The new flights will also offer up complimentary ice cream to look forward to the commencement to 23 tonnes of cargo per flight. to all of its customers at of a daily service this coming winter. The new service to Domodedovo Dubai International Airport The third service to Domodedovo is to will be operated by an Emirates Boeing throughout the summer. Ice cream cups are being given commence on 25 October. 777-300ER in a three class cabin out at the Terminal 3 departure The additional flights will give configuration, with eight private suites in and transit areas until 31 passengers more travel choices First Class, 42 lie flat seats in Business August for customers travelling and address the growing demand Class and 310 seats in Economy. from or through Dubai. The ice cream, branded Emperor, is made in-house by Emirates Flight Catering and the airline expects to serve millions of cups over the Emirates Skywards three-month period. now to incorporate The cool treats – available in chocolate, vanilla, date flydubai and Arabic coffee, mango Emirates Skywards has officially sorbet and lemon sorbet become the loyalty programme of both flavours – are served during Emirates airline and flydubai. The peak departure times every alignment of the loyalty programme day: between 12am and 3am; 12:30pm and 2:30pm; now allows Emirates Skywards and 6pm and 9pm. members to also earn Skywards Miles to book flydubai flights*, as well Emirates continually invests in Miles and Tier Miles when travelling as to pay for optional extras like an providing an unmatched travel on flydubai. The alignment of the extra legroom seat or a pre-ordered experience and this simple loyalty programme for both airlines meal. When travelling on flydubai, but cool initiative is a builds on Emirates’ and flydubai’s Emirates Skywards Silver, Gold and reflection of its commitment close partnership, which includes Platinum members will also receive to delighting customers. code-sharing on an extended global additional benefits regardless of their The airline’s popular Emperor ice cream is currently also route network and several initiatives class of travel including extra baggage served in premium classes including commercial, network allowance and priority check-in at on select flights to Europe planning, and airport operations. flydubai’s Business Class counters. and the UK, and in the seven Members can also spend a *All flights operated and marketed by flydubai Emirates lounges at Dubai combination of cash and Skywards (with FZ flight number). International Airport.

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Redesigning an aircraft How Emirates Engineering reconfigures its Boeing aircraft

Emirates Engineering operates modern and extensive technical facilities in Dubai to maintain its fleet of over 260 aircraft. Recently, it successfully completed the reconfiguration of the first two Boeing 777-200LR aircraft in its fleet. The conversion of the aircraft from three to two cabin classes was executed fully in-house at the Emirates Engineering hangars in Dubai

Type March 2018 Boeing 777-200LR First reconfigured Emirates Boeing 777-200LR aircraft takes to the skies

22mths Mid-2019 Additional features $150 million Time taken for Timeframe by which New wider Business Class Amount invested Emirates Engineering Emirates will complete seats (in 2-2-2 format) by Emirates to to plan and execute reconfiguration on the New social area reconfigure the the reconfiguration of eight remaining Boeing in Business Class Boeing 777- the first Boeing 777- 777-200LR aircraft Fully refreshed 200LR aircraft 200LR aircraft in its fleet Economy class in its fleet

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Emirates Engineering facilities in Dubai

7 heavy maintenance A380 capable hangars

4 light maintenance A380 capable hangars

Spread over 136 acres

THE PROCESS 1. Design and workflow Finalising the design was core to the reconfiguration process and the layout of the cabin 2,700 Key suppliers that was finally chosen was one of eight proposed 30 Number of parts and Included Boeing, Jamco, blueprints. The engineering team also had to Number of spares managed by the Panasonic, Rockwell secure approvals from regulatory authorities suppliers including the GCAA and the FAA in order to modify team at any one time Collins, Zodiac, and ATG the aircraft from its original design.

2. Grounding the aircraft The next step in the process was to ground the aircraft for cabin reconfiguration. During this time the original interiors of the aircraft cabin were completely stripped and rebuilt. The reconfiguration not only involved the installation of new seats but also a number of other changes including new 55 days 35 days wiring for the lighting systems, raising the ceiling Amount of ground time to Time taken to complete height in the business class cabin, and modifying reconfigure the first aircraft reconfiguration of second aircraft the aircraft galleys to incorporate the new social space in business class.

3. Safety testing A battery of tests had to be conducted on the aircraft at various stages to ensure 16,000+ its safe operations. The four major types that had to be conducted included: Man hours invested by Emirates Engineering prototype testing where the design was validated for regulatory compliance; team in the design and implementation of functional testing of cabin components; electro-magnetic interference (EMI) and this aircraft reconfiguration project air-flow testing inside the cabin, and a five hour test flight with the simulation of various flight scenarios and in-flight fire and smoke testing.

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Prague An architectural delight

One of the world’s most beautiful cities, Prague has grace and charm in spades; enough to bewitch even the most cynical of travellers. Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque-era buildings vie for a visitor’s attention, while history seeps from the city’s ancient stonework. There are also enough impressive dining options to keep the most dis- cerning of restaurant goers entertained. The city is awash with historical churches, castles and art, but also known for its forward-thinking fashion and design. From the Gothic altarpieces of the Convent of St Agnes, to the art nouveau of Alphonse Mucha and the sculptures of David Černý that pepper Prague’s public spaces, this is a city for the culture buff. Such beauty occasionally comes at a cost for residents and travellers alike. The 14th century Charles Bridge, once the only means of crossing the River Vltava, is frequently jammed solid with visitors. With stunning views of Prague Castle and the Old Town, such a state of affairs is un- derstandable, but even large crowds can’t dampen the spectacle. A compact city of 1.2 million, this “city of a hundred spires” is a year-round treat – although prepare to hunker down in one of the capital’s many cellar bars if you opt to travel in winter.

On July 1 Emirates launched a new second daily flight between Dubai and Prague, after steadily growing passenger numbers on the route during the eight years since launch of operations in July 2010. The new flight is operated by a Boeing 777-300ER and com- plements the existing schedule operated by an Emirates A380.

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ESE K D EG K EEE n the heart of the citys Just north of The shining star in Old Town is this mod- Masarykovo Nádraží restaurateur ani ern tae on a traditional train station, a Botte- uris culinary empire, ech eatery. Expect ga ina was founded with unrialled iews homemade dishes by Riccardo ucue of Prague astle. Pro- such as goulash, and prides itself on iding mouthwatering dumplings and roast talian authenticity. interpretations of duc with braised red ering fresh pastas, Bohemian classics, it cabbage and apples breads, salamis, embraces the richness all made with fresh cheeses and desserts, of dishes such as eal ingredients and spices prepare to dele into ﬁ llet with saffron pota- sourced from regional dishes such as carrot toes, sweetbread and suppliers. ts cheap, risotto with mustard prigourdine sauce. bustling and cheerful. and robiola cheese. belleuerestaurant.c loal-dlouha.ambi.c lina.lacolleione.c

GSE GDE E E ithin easy waling ocated ust below GE distance of Prague the walls of Prague lso situated in al astle and harles astle is this plush trana is the 2-room Bridge, youd neer boutiue hotel with 1 ria otel Prague, guess that behind the elaborately decorated with its music-themed hotels outer walls lies a rooms. Once owned by aesthetic, priate ﬁ ve-star gem. Situated a absburg emperor cinema, ﬁ ne dining and in a series of buildings and abandoned during flamboyant interior. that once formed part the ommunist era, the entrally located in a of the 13th-century olden ell is hidden uiet side street away t Thomas hurch up a narrow cobbled from the main hustle and onastery, this is side street in al and bustle of the Old accommodation at its trana and offers Town, it has its own most inspired. amaing city iews. rooftop restaurant. augustinehotel.com goldenwell.c ariahotel.net

D GE SE trip to Prague without Dominating the D EE isiting the fairy-tale syline of the citys n architectural istas of the Old Town esser Town is this marel, the hurch of would be unthinable. ancient symbol of Our ady Before Tn Theres the Old Town the ech tate. Built was built between the uare, the Prague in the th century, it 1th and 1th centu- astronomical cloc consists of a series ries and is a othic and more historic of palaces and eccle- masterpiece. One of buildings than you can siastical buildings of the most important shae a stic at. ts arious architectural religious buildings in also home to many styles. EO Prague, it includes of the citys best bars orld eritage site, it altar paintings by arel and restaurants and has undergone signif- rta and also houses funy streets such as icant repairs and is a the tomb of astrono- Karoliny Světlé. remarable spectacle. mer Tycho Brahe.

OS_082018.P78-79_Emirates Destination_notiling.indd 79 7/26/18 11:00 AM 80 / EMIRATES / UAE SMART GUIDE

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES Be smart! Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport

Citizens of the countries listed on in and out of the airport within the right and UAE residents can seconds. speed through Dubai Interna- Just look out for signs that tional by using UAE Smart Gate. will direct you to the many UAE If you hold a machine-read- Smart Gates found on either side able passport, an E-Gate card or of the Immigration Hall at Dubai Emirates ID card you can check International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to 1 be scanned.

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into 2 the card slot.

Go through the open gate, stand on the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set 3 of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim.

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register for Smart Gate access, just spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer and that’s it. Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed. *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re • Machine-readable passports travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport from the above countries control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and • E-Gate cards Departures, across all three terminals at DXB. • Emirates ID cards

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K 82 EMIRATES ROUTE MAP

GLOBAL ROUTES Suspended

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ith codeshare partners in countries ( airlines and an air rail codeshare arranement ith rances G ir) Emirates has even more fliht options

effectively epandin its netor partners for full details on our travel by over destinations isit

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MIDDLE EAST

AFRICA Suspended outes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to outes shown are

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ASIA ACIFIC

EUROE CENTRAL ASIA

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AMERICAS

EMIRATES SYCARGO

outes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to outes shown are

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K 88 EMIRATES FLEET

Emirates Fleet ur fleet of aircraft includes passenger aircraft and SkyCargo aircraft

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he Emirates Eecutive rivate et taes our Up to passeners ane m m m eceptional service to the hihest level to fly you personally around the orld ly up to uests in the utmost comfort of our customised aircraft ith the fleibility of private et travel urther information at

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F IN FLEET he most environmentally-friendly freihter operated today ith the loest fuel burn of any comparably-sized caro aircraft lon ith its ide main-dec caro door hich can accommodate oversized consinments it is also ane m m m capable of carryin up to tonnes of caro non-stop on -hour sector lenths ircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press at the time of going to numbers accurate ircraft

OS_082018.P88-89_Emirates Fleet.indd 89 7/24/18 7:13 PM RONALDINHO’S GUIDE TO RIO

Each month, the great and the good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, Ronaldinho takes us on a whistlestop tour of Rio

WORDS: EMMA COILER

If you arrive in Rio in the day go straight to the neighbourhoods that have fun nightlife that beach, and if you arrive in the evening go out should be explored, if you have the time. for a nice dinner, have a few cold drinks, and get The best way to recover from your night ready to party like only Rio knows how. out the next day is to go and relax with To really eat like a Brazilian you need to some amazing views of the city at the top of order feijoada, our national dish and one of my Sugarloaf Mountain. favourite foods. Also churrasco, with a good There is a reason why people come from South American red wine. all over the world for Rio Carnival. It is one of Copacabana can get crowded. You can go the most spectacular things you can see on the to Ipanema, which is also very beautiful, but planet. I have been lucky enough to be involved it can still get busy in peak season. If you want in it, and if you can go to Rio with your family to play beach football or volleyball then you during Carnival, you won’t regret it. should head down to Leblon. Rio is maybe the most passionate city in the Brazilians love to party. If you go out for a world when it comes to football. My perfect day night in Rio, expect it to be a lot of fun. We don’t in Rio, if we’re talking about dreams – then it allow you to sit down in the corner – it’s a Rio would be to win the World Cup with Brazil and rule that you have to dance the whole night. then go and celebrate by partying at Carnival. Copacabana and Lapa are always fun and Ok, they are not in the same months, but you always busy, but we also have some great little did ask for my perfect day in Rio, and that’s it.

RIO 22.9068° S, 43.1729° W

EAT Feijoada or churrasco PARTY Copacabana and Lapa PARTY SOME MORE Rio Carnival SUNBATHE Ipanema and Leblon VIEWPOINT Sugarloaf Mountain WATCH Football... anywhere RIO

Since 2012 Emirates offers a daily Boeing 777 service between Dubai and Rio de Janeiro.

OS_082018.P90_LastPage.indd 90 7/24/18 7:13 PM Opening in winter 2018

Luxurious living coupled with exotic extraordinary experiences will unravel in the pristine island of Aarah, at Raa atoll.

Have a sneak peak in to our oﬀerings at www.heritancehotels.com/aarah

T: +96 03 323 323 | E : [email protected] THE NEW COLLECTOR EDITION VELVET FATALE