international

4 number 4/2014 • july • www.pastaria.it “In our passage from the cultivation of grain to the construction OMNIALINE 500 of the pasta production plant, THE MULTIPRODUCT LINE we found in Storci an organization that has always listened to our questions and requests, responding punctually, with skill and courtesy”

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storci s.p.a. / via lemignano, 6 / 43044 collecchio / parma / italy / ph. +39 0521 543611 / fax +39 0521 543621 / [email protected] / www.storci.com A UNIQUE SYNTHESIS OF EXPERIENCE, RELIABILITY AND RESERCH

storci s.p.a. via lemignano, 6 / 43044 collecchio / parma / italy ph. +39 0521 543611 / fax +39 0521 543621 [email protected] / www.storci.com 4 | pastaria international 4/2014

international

The first digital professional magazine on the pasta sector and supply chain activities. Completely free.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF COPYRIGHT © Lorenzo Pini Kinski Editori S.r.l. Being as we firmly believe that the sharing of PUBLISHER information, ideas and knowledge can help make Kinski Editori S.r.l. the world a better place, circulation of this magazine registered office: Via Possioncella 1/1 • 42016 Guastalla is not only allowed but is actually encouraged and operational headquarters: Via Bernardelli 16 • 43123 Parma [Italia] incentivized. You can pass the magazine on to T. +39 0521 1564934 | F. +39 0521 1564935 your friends and acquaintances, print it, distribute [email protected] | ROC no. 23238 it, include a download link for it on your website, share it on your social networks and so on, as long AUTHORIZATION as distribution is always without charge and no No 1210 (05/09/2007) Tribunal of Reggio Emilia amendments are made to the original. SV200....HACCP Pasteurization unit for treatment of pre-packaged products. Guarantees rapid and precise heat treatment, thanks to crossover hyper-ventilation that certifies, following HACCP regulations, all process parameters.

ESSICA srl Via E. Mattei 15 - 35020 Maserà di Padova - Italy Tel. ++ 39 049 8860007 - Fax ++39 049 8869105 www.essica.it - e-mail:[email protected] 6 | pastaria international 4/2014

acknowledgements

Pastaria, Pastaria International, in both digital and paper formats together with www.pastaria.it are tools designed to provide professional information and updates concerning pasta and any related activities for professionals operating in the sector. They are freely distributed without charge thanks to the collaboration and patronage received from national trade associations and the interest and support of companies operating on an international level to supply ingredients, semi-processed products, machines and systems for manufacturing fresh/dry pasta, gnocchi and ready meals. supported by:

sponsored by:

MACCHINE PER PASTA FRESCA CAPITANI durum wheat semolina. the great masters of pasta choose mininni.

Industria Molitoria Mininni SRL - Via Graviscella C.S. 1448 - 70022 Altamura - Ba - Italy Tel. +39 080 3103625 - Fax +39 080 3103590 - [email protected] - www. molinomininni.com 8 | pastaria international 4/2014 main contents

10 16 21 26

Pasta in Morocco Date of minimum Third European Potato gnocchi: durability: should it Fresh Pasta evolution, types and be eliminated from and Gnocchi european market, for dried pasta labels? Conference a this traditional italian success specialty

42 62 67 74

Fresh pasta: aspects of Horse meat: a Interesting aspects Foodtechmaster: quality, technology and European scandal of Eu legislation on Pavan school of health, hygiene and safety of that offers new risk pesticides residues, food technologies - Italian products in the context for the Italian market contaminants, food 2014 editions of the European market labelling 79 88 96 103

Fourth AIDEPI annual Grand Pasta Primo Piatto, the APPAFRE, sets meeting school you don’t its sights on Expo expect 2015

10 | pastaria international 4/2014

pasta in morocco

by Euromonitor International

Excellent prospects for pasta in Morocco. Pasta is expected to post a CAGR of 3% in constant value over the next five years. Changes in lifestyle and smaller family sizes are expected to lead to pasta becoming increasingly popular with younger customers who seek convenience

Pasta in Morocco is set to continue to grow in 2014, increasing by 2% in retail volume and 7% in retail value terms. Pasta prices range from Dh 9.95 to Dh 21.00 per 500 g packs with local brands, such as Dari and Tria, being the most affordable. Customers, especially those buying from supermarkets and hypermarkets, generally look for low-cost packaged pasta. 11 | pastaria international 4/2014

Pasta in Morocco. Historic Retail Value RSP-US$ (current prices - fixed 2013 exchange rates)

source: Euromonitor International

Pasta is a growing category in the country due to its low prices and multiple uses in the Moroccan diet. Moroccans are still traditional in their eating habits, preferring the traditional vegetable and meat/fish dishes (Tagines), however due to changing lifestyle habits and urbanisation, they are increasingly looking for convenience for their meals. Pasta is hence a quicker solution than the traditional Tagine, which is time consuming. Pasta is expected to post a CAGR of 3% in constant value over the next five years. Changes in lifestyle and smaller family sizes are expected to lead to pasta becoming increasingly popular with younger customers who seek convenience. The increasing availability of cooked pasta sauces at affordable prices is also supporting this growth. Pasta prices are expected to decrease as well by 2017 by around -0.4% y-o-y in constant terms which will again help to boost sales for pasta. Sure, we like to go crazy, laugh and party. But there is one thing that we never joke about: good food. Since 1832 Molino Dallagiovanna has been creating and producing Special Flours that, wherever you are in the world, will speak authentic Italian to you.

Try LA TRIPLOZERO – special for fresh pasta. Discover also: Granito for gnocchi and the two Semolina for dry pasta.

Our Story, your Future. Everywhere. 13 | pastaria international 4/2014

storci global communications

Press release

From the web to trade fairs, all the latest news and events from Storci S.p.a.

Navigating to stay in touch. Keeping you up-to-date on innovations, corporate news and key markets. We at Storci have always been very attuned to this process and on a number of fronts: our website, www.storci.com, is our official informational source offering the latest news regarding technologies, products and company-related communications and activities. In addition to Italian, English and French, a fourth language has recently been added—Russian—to meet the needs of our customers who use the Cyrillic alphabet, thanks to the www.storci.com.ru domain. While on-line communication makes it possible to stay up-to-date rapidly and continuously virtually anywhere, attend- ance at trade fairs puts the spotlight on face-to-face contact with customers and outside consultants. Given the major importance it places on personal contact, Storci has created a special sector, highlighting the aspect of service and human relations. In addition, extensive coverage in trade publications allows Storci to offer a concrete message about 14 | pastaria international 4/2014

its technologies and products that stresses the company’s experience and customers reviews, including through its press campaign—proof that satisfied customers are the best guarantee for success. Getting together to share ideas. Fall marks the beginning of the most intense season for trade fairs. Storci will kick off with Agroprodmash to be held in Moscow (6-8 October) where it will present its complete line of technologies to produce dried and fresh pasta, ready-to-serve foods and couscous. Also in October (28-31), it will be on home turf at CibusTec. The 2014 fair is of special interest to Storci because of the strategic agreement between CibusTec, Food Pack and Anuga FoodTec to create an international network with the goal of providing export support to suppliers of food sector technologies. The project makes available an international trade fair platform that offers companies unique business opportunities with both current and potential customers: vertical expositional solutions dedicated to tech- nology-related investment in this sector. A concerted response to the needs of a company such as Storci, to allow it to coordinate its international trade fair calendar. It will be present here under the brand of the Storci-BS company network and it will have an attractive stand ready to welcome visitors interested in the world of pasta, couscous and ready-to-serve foods. Parma—known as the Food Valley and an area with an established tradition in technologies for the production of pas- ta, from the time of Braibanti to the present day—provides “full immersion” into the world of pasta-making, and for this trade fair, Storci will open its doors to all those interested in visiting its plant in Collecchio to get a closer, hands-on look at its technological design approach and production. Next on its calendar is Gulfood Manufacturing with its partner, Fava, which will be held in Dubai on 9-11 November 2014. Created by the Dubai World Trade Centre as a spin-off of the famous Gulfood, this fair promises to become the no. 1 event in the Middle East in the food technology sector. One that is not-to-be-missed and for which very high attendance is expected. Co-participation with its partner, Fava, will provide Storci with tremendous visibility and their stand will be in the Italian Pavillion, Hall 1, stand E1-34. With the new year, Storci will take part in CFIA in Rennes (10-12 March), a trade fair with major impact, attracting vis- itors from throughout France and surrounding countries. Proof of this is the major attendance and long waiting list to take part in the event. In the same month, on 24-27 March, Storci will be in Cologne for Anuga FoodTec, the main pre- paratory event to Ipack-Ima, and an opportunity for a dress rehearsal before the main event at Ipack-Ima/Expo 2015. Anuga FoodTec is one of the most important platforms in the world for food technologies. It is a prestigious event for all those who want to invest in know-how, contacts and innovation. That is why all the representatives of leading food manufacturers visit Anuga FoodTec, and Storci will also be present in Germany, representing the Storci-BS company network. As in the past, Storci will wrap up its trade fair calendar by taking part, along with Fava, as one of the leaders at Ipack-Ima, on 19-23 May 2015, an event that is part of the EXPO umbrella of events which, more than ever, is in line with the theme of this international exposition: “Nutrire il Pianeta” – “Feeding the Planet”. Go to www.storci.com for all the latest information and to contact our experts. Machines and plants pamaroma.it for alimentary pasta Tel. +39 06.9570662 16 | pastaria international 4/2014 date of minimum durability: should it be eliminated from dried pasta labels?

The delegations from a number of European Union countries have proposed that the “best used by” wording should be eliminated from the packaging of a number of food products, including dried pasta

The label is a food's ID card: it provides a series of information about the product and gives facts about the “use- by” date and proper preservation of a given food. 17 | pastaria international 4/2014

However, over the next few months, things could change. The European Union has, in fact, proposed a revision of food product use-by labels to eliminate the wording “best used by” on packages of products such as pasta, rice, coffee and hard cheeses. This proposal, which aims at limiting the problem of food loss and waste in Europe, was put forward by the Dutch and Swedish delegations, and has already won the support of Austria, Germany, Denmark and Luxembourg. There have been many reactions in Italy to this proposal, but all have shown an underlying doubt regarding the ac- tual possibility of solving the problem of food waste in this way and, at the same time, also preserving the quality of successful products, such as pasta, for example. The first to put the brakes on the introduction of EU standards was the Italian Minister of Agricultural Food and Forestry Policies Maurizio Martina, himself, who stated: "We are very cautious. We accept the debate and want to examine it in depth, but we are just as aware that these means guarantee the quality of food products.” And it is the safety of products and their organoleptic qualities that Italian pasta-makers also refer to, because they wish to continue to offer consumers flavorful, high-quality foods. “Identifying practical solutions that make it possible to combat food waste and loss has always been one of the goals of the pasta manufacturers we represent,” declares AIDEPI, the Italian Association of Confectionery and Pasta Industries. “However, when speaking of the amount of food beyond its use-by date that every Italian family is forced to throw away each year, it involves, above all, perishable products with very short use-by dates, or those which must be kept under temperature control. Currently, only a few food products have a use-by date set by law while, for all other products, the period is set independently by the manufacturers themselves on the basis of a se- ries of factors. Pasta durability, for example, is 36 months, or 24 if it contains egg. A very long period.” “There is still a lot of confusion," AIDEPI continues, "between the Date of Minimum Durability expressed with the ‘best used by’ wording, and the expiration date, i.e., the date within which the food is suitable for consumption if stored under the proper conditions, which is only envisaged for perishable foods (fresh milk). Only when the latter date is exceeded is there a serious health risk while, for the former, there could be changes in the taste, smell, fra- grance or color of a food. It is probable that completely eliminating the Date of Minimum Durability would confuse consumers even more and they could unconsciously waste a food just because it was purchased some time ago.” The European Union proposal is based, therefore, on the fact that the term “best” does not provide concrete in- formation and that the consumer, if in doubt, would choose to throw out the product. On the other hand, it is truly important that a term be maintained which indicates that these properties have remained intact, thus providing consumers with clear, transparent information. Are we sure, in fact, that by omitting this indication, the consumer will not throw out the food even earlier, thus re- sulting in the opposite effect and increasing the problem of food waste? When speaking of the problem of food waste, however, reference must also be made to the environment and 18 | pastaria international 4/2014

search for solutions that also improve the impact of CO2 emissions of the main agricultural raw materials used. This is an issue in which AIDEPI is also very involved. “We recently presented the First Sustainability Report for this sector, which can be downloaded free-of-charge from the AIDEPI website (http:// http://www.aidepi.it/images/PDFscaricabili/rapp_sost_2013_rev_2_giugno2014.pdf),” AIDEPI notes. “A work whose goal is to bring together and analyze data that make it possible to set new goals for improving environmental performance in the medium-to-long term. This report allowed us to focus attention on the impacts each step in production and processing has on the environment. With some surprises. For example, it emerged that the highest impact regarding pasta is that related to the home. In fact, in preparing a plate of pasta, the environmental impact is 38% compared with 37% from raw materials, 15% from processing, 6% from pro- ducing packaging and 4% from distribution. The ecological footprint of an 80g portion of pasta is minimal, equal to 1 m² overall. Also in terms of water consumption, pasta is in the vanguard. For example, to produce a kilogram of pasta, a pasta manufacturer uses no more than 3 liters of water. So, even the decision to eat a plate of pasta means choosing a food product that fully respects the environment.” The dish that is the king of the Mediterranean Diet is also sustainable in terms of packaging. For packing pasta, companies use materials that are easily—if not totally—recyclable, such as cardboard or the classic plastic wrapper. In addition, in many cases, the packages have been designed to help consumers properly dispose of the packag- ing, with instructions on the label, including symbols and graphic references. 19 | pastaria international 4/2014 armando de matteis named "cavaliere del lavoro"

Among the 25 new “Cavalieri del Lavoro” (Italy’s highest recognition for an industrial manager) named by President of the Italian Republic Giorgio Napolitano is also a representative of the pasta sector. He is Armando De Matteis (born 1940), who was awarded this honor thanks to the production of the Baronia brand of quality pasta. De Matteis’ adventure as president of the pasta manufacturing company that bears his name began in 1993 when he bought up a small industrial concern. Production is concentrated in the Flumeri plant in the province of Avellino (Italy) where the milling and pasta-making activities are combined with state-of-the-art technologies. De Matteis distributes its products in Italy, Europe, North America, Japan and Australia. It employs 150 people and exports are 66% of its sales. garofalo passes into the hands of spanish-owned ebro foods

Fifty-two percent—majority ownership. Pasta Garofalo passes into the hands of Spanish-owned Ebro Foods, a multinational quoted on the Madrid stock exchange, in the wake of an investment of 62 million euros. “We saw in Ebro Foods an industrial partner with a solid background,” said the pasta manufacturer in a release, “with which to embark on a program of growth on the basis of a common vision that calls for maintaining intact the corporate and product identity whose distinctive and special characteristics are the result of efforts of the management and employees, as well as their manufacturing site.” The company stressed that the operation will focus on the importance of Made in Italy throughout the world, and the CEO of Garofalo Massimo Menna decided to also use a video to explain the motivations behind the agreement. “Pasta Garofalo,” he explains, “will always mean maximum quality — quality of our product, the raw materials we use and the people who produce it. The best choices are not made in the heat of necessity. Our company is healthy and strong, but it is important to take advantage of growth opportunities.” Garofalo boasts an 8.4 million GOM on billings of 122 (2012 figures). The Ebro Foods portfolio also includes a 25% share in Riso Scotti. 20 ANNI INSIEME... UN GRANDE SUCCESSO ASSOCIATIVO

- ANNO FONDAZIONE: 1989. - FINALITÀ: promuovere iniziative legislative, di marketing e scientifiche attinenti il settore della pasta fresca e degli gnocchi. - QUOTA DI MERCATO PASTA FRESCA IN ITALIA: 85%. - QUOTA DI MERCATO PASTA FRESCA IN EUROPA: 60%. - QUOTA DI MERCATO GNOCCHI IN ITALIA: 80%. - QUOTA DI MERCATO GNOCCHI IN EUROPA: 65%. - CARATTERISTICHE DEGLI ASSOCIATI: grandi, medi e piccoli produttori con finalità di marketing rivolte principalmente alla GD ed all’export. - INIZIATIVE: convegni ad invito su pasta fresca e gnocchi. L’evento principale è il “Convegno europeo sulla pasta fresca” giunto alla terza edizione. - A.P.P.F. in sinergia con U.N.I.P.I. è associata, quale rappresentante nazionale, ad E.C.F.F. (European Chilled Food Federation), associazione che annovera le più importanti associazioni europee del settore (C.F.A., SynaFap, ecc.). - PRESIDENTE: cav. Giovanni Rana. - SOCI FONDATORI: Giovanni Rana, Giovanni Voltan, Franco Zanasi, Carlo Rossi. - SEGRETARIO: Justo Bonetto.

A.P.P.F. Associazione Produttori Pasta Fresca e Gnocchi via dei Borromeo, 16 - 35137 Padova - Italy - Tel. +39 049 8760941 - Fax +39 049 660125 www.appf.it - [email protected] 21 | pastaria international 4/2014 third european fresh pasta and gnocchi conference a success

Recently concluded the third European Fresh Pasta and Gnocchi Conference promoted by the Association of Fresh Pasta Producers (APPF) with its president Giovanni Rana. Distinguished audience with representatives from leading sector players. 22 | pastaria international 4/2014

Left to right, Giovanni Rana, Justo Bonetto, Giovanni Voltan

The third European Fresh Pasta and Gnocchi Conference promoted by the Association of Fresh Pasta Producers (APPF), presided over by Giovanni Rana and directed by Justo Bonetto, was held on 30 May. Within the charming cornice of the decorative stuccoes and frescoes of the 17th-century Salone del Ridotto of the Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal in Venice, located in the immediate vicinity of the enchanting Piazza San Marco, representatives of this sector from Italy and Europe met for a free day of study and discussion of such issues as national and EC legislation, trends in the Italian and European market, aspects of food hygiene and safety, production technologies and many other issues. A rich program of presentations offered in a morning and afternoon session, with a lunch break enjoyed by conference participants. Many of the presentations by the speakers can be read in this issue of Pastaria which offers an ample feature section dedicated to the conference. Giovanni Rana, president of APPF, had the honor of delivering the welcoming keynote address which stressed that the European market still offers extraordinary opportunities for those operating on an international scale in the fresh pasta and gnocchi sector. Conference speakers included: Ferdinando Galassi (IRI Senior Manager), Fresh pasta and chilled products today: comparison between Italy and leading European countries; Gerhard Weber (General Manager of Bundesverband der Deutschen Feinkostindustrie e. V., Germany), Interesting aspects of EU legislation on pesticides residues, contaminants, food labelling (see page 67); 23 | pastaria international 4/2014 24 | pastaria international 4/2014

Fabio Brusa (Logos - Avvocati associati, Venice), Designation of Origin and Made in Italy. Italian laws and the EU; Stefano Zardetto (Quality Assurance and Research & Development Department Voltan S.p.a.), Fresh pasta: aspects of quality, technology and health, hygiene and safety of Italian products in the context of the European market (see page 42); Fraser McKevitt (Kantar World Panel, United Kingdom), Overview of structure of UK chilled food market. Focus on fresh pasta market; Dario De Medici (Istituto Superiore Sanità, Rome), Horse meat, a European scandal that offers new risk for the Italian market following the recent emergencies (see page 62); Luigi Storchi (Quality Manager Grandi Pastai Italiani), Potato gnocchi: evolution, types and European market for this traditional Italian specialty (see page 26); Alberto Volpe (Italia del Gusto), Private brands: strategies and roles for European distribution; Angelo M. Ronchi (R&D Tecnessenze), Opportunities for the fresh pasta and gastronomy sector; Oretta Zanini De Vita, Potato gnocchi: the historical roots of one of Italy’s leading traditional food specialties. Taking turns moderating the discussion were Fabio Brusa, attorney, expert in EC legislation and Stefano Zardetto, Quality Assurance Research and Development Manager for the Voltan Group. The conference was made possible by the contributions of a number of sponsors: ADEA, Albertazzi, Eurovo, Facchini Group, Ipam, Molino Pasini, Standard Tech Impianti and Tecnessenze. Pastaria was the exclusive media partner for the conference and also collaborated with APPF in its organization. PTG PRESENTA FA.549 MACCHINA PER PRECISIONE, RENDIMENTO, CAPPELLETTI MASSIMA SANIFICABILITÀ

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potato gnocchi: evolution, types and european market for this traditional italian specialty

by Luigi Storchi Quality manager Grandi Pastai Italiani

Feature article: proceedings of the European Fresh Pasta and Gnocchi Conference (Venice, 30 May 2014) 27 | pastaria international 4/2014

Potato gnocchi were probably the first form of pasta used by humankind, initially comprising water and flour (millet, spelt or wheat); later, following on from home-made production, the first industrial potato gnocchi appeared between the 1970s and 1980s in North Italy, their main feature being that they were packed in a protective atmosphere or in a “confined” environment. And the process of pasteurizing the packaged product started to become widespread. In subsequent years we saw an evolution in the concept of potato gnocchi which led to the creation of new types of product on a large industrial scale. Industrial gnocchi today, oval in shape with grooves on one side, have moisture contents of around 60% and water activity (aw) of around 0.98 – that is, ideal starting conditions for the growth of the majority of microorganisms. The different shelf-lives requested by customers (Italian, European and overseas) have therefore required a system of synergic hurdle combinations in order to keep alterations or problems of a microbiological nature under control. The product has to be cooked before consumption and normally contains the allergen gluten (from soft wheat flour or durum wheat semolina), and sometimes also eggs and/or milk. Table 1 shows the average nutritional values for 100 g of industrial potato gnocchi. So what are the hurdles quoted above? i. correction of the pH (lactic, citric, tartaric acid, right down to sulphuric acid, and others); ii. addition of preservatives (sorbic acid or potassium sorbate); iii. packaging in a protective atmosphere (nitrogen or a mixture of nitrogen and carbon dioxide); iv. packaging in a confined filtered air environment; v. pasteurization heat treatment (hot air or microwave); vi. refrigerator storage. They are used individually or in combination in the production processes of the major types of potato gnocchi produced in Europe, which are:

Table 1. Average nutritional values for 100 g of industrial potato gnocchi

kcal/kjoule 166/695 Total fats 0. 4 g Of which saturated fats 0.15 g Carbohydrates 35 Of which sugars <1 Fibre 2 Proteins 3.9 Salt Variable 28 | pastaria international 4/2014

a) potato gnocchi/gnocchi with potatoes (35%, 70% or more potato purée – from reconstituted potatoes); b) gnocchi from powder mixes based on potato flakes; c) gnocchi from fresh potato; d) semolina gnocchi also without potatoes; e) filled gnocchi (potato-based dough and various types of filling). For each of these we will now analyze the process and the ingredients that characterize them.

Potato gnocchi/gnocchi with potatoes (35%, 70% or more potato purée – from reconstituted potatoes)

This type of gnocchi has the following characteristics: • water as a prime ingredient, • use of potato flakes, expression of the % purée with multiplication factor that can range from 4 to 6 compared with the added flake, indication given by the flake producer; • use of native starches (potato starch, maize) soft wheat flour (coarse-ground); • possible use of eggs and milk; • possible use of additives (preservatives and/or acidifiers according to country of destination or shelf- life allocated); 29 | pastaria international 4/2014

• continuous or discontinuous hot dough production technology to cross-link the starches and give the dough the right texture; • shaping the gnocchi and dusting with flour (rice, wheat or other) to enable them to be loosened from the shaping unit (gnocchi-machine); • drying with air pre-dryer or with filtered air in confined environment, possible use of UV sterilizing lamps, possible deep freezing; • packaging (in plastic film bag or tray) in free or protective atmosphere, in free or confined environment; • if required, pasteurization with hot air or microwaves and cooling at ambient or refrigerated temperature, packing and ambient or refrigerated storage.

Gnocchi from powder mixes based on potato flakes Di seguito, le peculiarità di questa tipologia di gnocchi: The special features of this type of gnocchi are given below: • apart from water, use of mixes of dehydrated ingredients (potato flakes, potato starch, pregelatinized starch – potato, maize, other – soft wheat flour); • in this case, too, the % of purée is usually expressed with a multiplication factor of 4 to 6 compared with the added flake; • possible use of eggs and milk (sometimes already present in powder in the mix); • possible use of additives (particularly preservatives); • discontinuous cold dough production technology; the presence of pregelatinized starches avoids the need for warming the dough; • shaping the gnocchi and dusting with flour (rice, wheat or other) to enable them to be loosened from the gnocchi machine; • drying with air pre-dryer or with filtered air in confined environment, possible use of UV sterilizing READY IN 3 MINUTES first courses at their best

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lamps; • packaging (in plastic film bag or tray) in free or protective atmosphere, in free or confined environment; • cooling at refrigerated temperature, packing and refrigerated storage.

Fresh potato gnocchi Fresh potato gnocchi have the following features: • use of raw potatoes which are subsequently cooked, cooled and milled, or, alternatively, use of deep-frozen purée made from precooked potatoes (derived mainly from production process for potatoes for frying); • cold kneading with other ingredients such as soft wheat flour, eggs, salt, spinach (for Tyrolean gnocchi or Spaetzle); additives are not normally used; • in this case the % of precooked potatoes used in the dough is usually expressed; • shaping the gnocchi (in this type of product the shapes are often cylindrical); • cooking the gnocchi and rapid cooling (water or air); • spreading with oil (sunflower); • packaging (in plastic film bag or tray) in partial vacuum and/or protective atmosphere; • pasteurization with hot air or microwaves and cooling at refrigerated temperature, packing and refrigerated storage.

Durum wheat semolina gnocchi, also without potatoes The type of gnocchi is characterized as follows: • water as the prime ingredient; • use of higher quality semolina and, if required, potato flakes; • use of native starches (potato starch, maize); 32 | pastaria international 4/2014

• use of sunflower or rapeseed oil as an ingredient, and possible use of eggs and milk; • continuous or discontinuous hot dough production technology to cross-link the starches and give the dough the right texture; • shaping the gnocchi and dusting with flour (rice, wheat or other) to enable them to be loosened from the gnocchi machine; • drying with air pre-dryer and, if required, deep-freezing and packaging; • pasteurization of product before packaging with direct steam, which gives the product a shiny appearance and a straw-yellow color, with the smell of fresh semolina pasta; • packaging (in plastic film bag or rigid tray) in a protective atmosphere in a filtered air environment; • cooling at refrigerated temperature, packing and refrigerated storage.

Filled gnocchi These are the main characteristics: • the gnocchi (external part) may derive from hot or cold produced doughs, as already quoted above; • preparation of filling or use of ready-made filling based on various ingredients (cheeses, pesto, mushrooms, etc.); • possible use of additives (preservatives and/ or acidifiers according to the country of destination or the shelf-life allocated) both in the pasta and in the filling; • shaping of the filled gnocchi and dusting with flour (rice, wheat or other) to enable them to be loosened from the gnocchi machine, • drying with air pre-dryer or with filtered air in confined environment, possible use of UV sterilizing lamps and, if required, deep-freezing; • Packaging (in plastic film bag or tray) in a free or protective atmosphere in a free or confined environment; • If required, pasteurization with hot air or microwaves and cooling at refrigerated temperature, packing and refrigerated storage. MULTILINE CO-EXTRUSION MACHINE FOR STUFFED GNOCCHI ideal for any type of filling, from the softest to the most compact or with pieces.

SANDORÈ Via Monte Summano, 58 36010 ZANÉ (Vicenza) Italy Tel. +39 0445 314388 - Fax +390445 314858 [email protected] www.sandore.com 34 | pastaria international 4/2014

Potato flakes: selection criteria Potato flakes are a key ingredient for the production of most industrial potato gnocchi; they are derived from fresh potatoes, cooked, peeled and pressed and, if required, given additives and dried, and then milled to different particle-sizes, from fine flour to flakes of several millimeters. The main selection criteria for potato flakes, which are obviously linked to the user’s requirements, are as follows: • Blue Value index; • particle-size; • water absorption; • colour; • packaging and storage. The Blue Value index represents the level of free amylose (a molecule that comprises around 20% of starch, the rest being amylopectin). A high Blue Value makes the purée smoother and stickier, while low values give a “mechanically” more stable and more workable purée. Lastly, the Blue Value is linked to the production process (blanching, cooling and cooking) as well as to the percentage of mono- and diglycerides of added fatty acids (E471). Particle sizes in potato flakes range from 500 microns to 5 millimeters. Flakes milled to small dimensions increase the free starch and increase the water absorption capacity but they make the purée less workable. Ideal particle-sizes are around 3 mm since, as well as mitigating the above-mentioned defects, they also reduce the size of the impurities (potato skins, “carbonized” lumps of flakes). The color of potato flakes depends very much on the type of potato used (e.g. the Bintje variety gives a deep yellow color). The only permitted colorant (declared as such) is curcumin (E100); ingredients such as paprika, curcuma or other extracts are normally added to the flakes, and declared as spices or vegetable extracts. For the purposes of maintaining the coloring of the flakes anti-oxidants are added, such as sodium metabisulphite and ascorbyl palmitate; the flakes are, in fact, very sensitive to oxygen. Other additives may be stabilizers and acidifiers. In recent years producers have been offering potato flakes without additives, with the sole use of E471 and natural extracts. 35 | pastaria international 4/2014

Oxygen causes discoloration and oxidation (flavor) of the potato flakes and this has led, as mentioned above, to the use of additives in the production process. Short storage times, at low temperatures (below 15°C) and in the absence of light are advisable; the ideal condition is storage in a protective (nitrogen) atmosphere which may anyway be created only in bags (with polythene interior) or in potato flakes preserved in silos (not in any case in big bags).

EU legislation applicable to potato gnocchi In the previous pages we have talked about the possibility of inserting additives into potato gnocchi, and this is the only area where laws and regulations applicable to this type of food are involved. Apart from the horizontal norms applicable to the whole food sector (chemical and microbiological safety, labeling, GMOs), the only EC regulation that explicitly cites gnocchi is the 1129/11 regulation limiting the use of sorbic acid preservative or its salt, potassium sorbate to 1000 mg/kg (ppm). I would also mention that the same regulation forbids the use of coloring additives in gnocchi, both direct and linked to the transfer principle (as expressly explained in Regulation 1333/2008 Section 18). In addition, I must mention what happened a few years ago regarding the genetically modified Amflora potato, created by the industrial chemical giant BASF. The vegetable, nicknamed “superpotato”, was

 GENERAL REGULATIONS

(Applicable to all foods)

FOOD SAFETY AND HYGIENE

CHEMICAL GMOs LABELLING SAFETY

OTHER REGULATIONS (not in the public health field): weight control, biological products, safeguarding Made in Italy, etc...

 NO SPECIFIC REGULATIONS FOR GNOCCHI

2

37 | pastaria international 4/2014

FOOD SAFETY AND HYGIENE

Reg. (EC) Reg. (EC) Law 283/62 178/2002 852/2004 Italian Presidential («hygiene package») («hygiene package») Decree 327/80 Regulation still in force in Italy

General and specific requirements concerning Hygiene legislation for hygiene, General principles and the production and sale Confirmation of the HACCP system, elaboration requirements of the legislation, of food substances and and circulation of EU and Italian manuals for good establishment of the European Food drinks hygiene practice (GHP Manuals), consultation for a Safety Authority and procedures in the European Food Safety Authority opinion, in cases food safety field Decree implementing where the application of the Regulation may have a Law n. 283 significant impact on public health

«Hygiene package» General principles: Reg. (EC) 178/2002 integrated checks throughout the whole food chain • interventions based on Risk Analysis Agreement of 28 July 2005 between the • primary responsibility of sector operator for each product created, Government, regional governments and transformed, imported, marketed or distributed Atonomous provinces: national traceability • product traceability throughout the production chain guidelines • consumer playing an active part in food safety

MICROBIOLOGICAL SAFETY

EUROPEAN UNION ITALIAN Reg. (EC) 2073/05 MINISTERIAL ORDINANCE OF 07.12.93 and subsequent Ministry of Health Circular 32 of 03.08.85 updates ISTISAN Report 89/9

NOT APPLICABLE . THERE ARE NO SPECIFIC MICROBIOLOGICAL CRITERIA FOR GNOCCHI (fresh, ambient, deep-frozen)

1 38 | pastaria international 4/2014

5. Main regulations applicable

GMOs

Reference regulations: I. Reg. (EC) 1829/03 II. Reg. (EC) 1830/03

I. Authorization procedure for placing on the market a GMO or a GM food or animal feed, specific requirements for labelling and fixing of the tolerance threshold for the accidental or technically inevitable presence of GMOs (0.9%)

I. Concerning the traceability and labelling of genetically modified organisms and the traceability of foods and animal feed obtained from genetically modified organisms: no indication on the label if the inevitable accidental or technically inevitable presence of GMOs is lower than 0.9% the subject of countless debates within the European Union and in 2013, because of a procedural technicality, the EU Court vetoed the authorization granted by Brussels for the4 cultivation of this vegetable in Europe. The potato would not enter the food chain, but would be destined for industry and used for the production of starch. In a genetically modified potato the amylopectin content reaches 100%. Thanks to its particular branched-chain sugar structure, amylopectin is widely used in industry as a thickening agent. The Amflora potato was therefore not destined for human consumption but had to be used instead in the production of paper and cement, and even in the mining industry. Then, after the starch had been extracted, the potato pulp was to finish up as animal feed.

The European market for gnocchi The European market for gnocchi has not experienced any downturns in the past few years, increasing by 2.5 - 3% each year on average. The main countries that are “consumers” of gnocchi are definitely Italy, France and Germany. Countries that are historically consumers of gnocchi, such as Great Britain, Spain and the Eastern European countries are also increasing. The two largest producers in Europe—and the world as a whole—are, in terms of volume, Italy and 39 | pastaria international 4/2014

Table 2. Gnocchi production: Italy and France compared (2013)

Italy France Total 115,000 tons 27,000 tons 142,000 tons

Table 3. Volumes of gnocchi production: Italy and France compared (2012-2014)

Gnocchi produced 2012 2013 2014 (estimate) Italy 110,000 115,000 118,000 France 25,000 27,000 30,000 Total 135,000 142,000 148,000

France. 2013 productions figures are shown in Table 2. While France produces essentially for the domestic market, Italy exports around 55,000 tons, almost half of its production. Table 3 shows the volumes of gnocchi produced in Europe in the last 2 years and in 2014. Whereas the French producers produce mainly fresh gnocchi with a short shelf-life, the Italian ones produce larger amounts of fresh products with a short shelf-life and products for storage at room temperature. Based on type of storage, European gnocchi production may be estimated as shown in Table 4. The production values for gnocchi in Europe over the last 2 years and in 2014 (in million Euros) are shown in Table 5. This is an impressive market, both in the figures (tons and turnover), and in the growth trend which, although “low”, is constant over the years. Table 4. Type of storage of gnocchi currently produced in Europe (estimate)

Refrigerated gnocchi Shelf-stable gnocchi 80% 20%

Table 5. Value of gnocchi production: Italy and France compared (2012-2014, in million Euros)

Gnocchi produced 2012 2013 2014 (estimate) Italy 137.5 144 148 France 31.5 34 37.5 Total 169 178 185.5 40 | pastaria international 4/2014

Grandi Pastai Italiani Grandi Pastai Italiani (formerly Italgnocchi, Lirma and Bertarini) was founded in 1961. It is 100% Italian-owned, it has been exporting since 1969 and these exports today represent 60% of turnover, serving over 50 countries. It is the largest producer of potato gnocchi in the world and one of the main players in the production of fresh filled pasta. It has three production sites spread over North Italy, in Correggio (the headquarters), San Martino in Rio and in Cremona – all sites that have been certified according to acknowledged

The Grandi Pastai Italiani production sites. Top left, Correggio (Reggio Emilia, Italy), right, Sesto ed Uniti (Cremona, Italy), bottom, San Martino in Rio (Reggio Emilia, Italy)

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42 | pastaria international 4/2014

fresh pasta: aspects of quality, technology and health, hygiene and safety of italian products in the context of the european market

by Stefano Zardetto Quality Assurance and Research & Development Department Voltan S.p.a.

Feature article: proceedings of the European Fresh Pasta and Gnocchi Conference (Venice, 30 May 2014) 43 | pastaria international 4/2014

Fresh pasta is a "simple" product, the way it is manufactured does not differ substantially from the way it is pre- pared in the home. But, the industrialization process has required the creativity and passion of many entrepre- neurs, as well as the use of technologies of which Italy remains to this day an exporter throughout the world. Filled fresh pasta is a food which is very perishable with a high moisture level (25-35%) and with a water activity level of between 0.93 and 0.97, and, because of the staggered way in which the product is distributed, its pres- ervation requires the coordinated application of a series of "obstacles" to the development of microorganisms. In fact, it is a product that combines a number of different ingredients (even as many as 25-30), some of which, such as egg, represent an optimal substrate for the growth of many microorganisms. A number of characteristics differentiate this type of product from dry pasta and these are summarized in Figure 1.

Italian law In Italy, fresh pasta is regulated by Presidential Decree no. 187 dated 9 February 2001, which sets a series of requisites the product must have to be defined as fresh pasta. These specific features are: a) a water activity level of less than 0.97; c) it must have undergone a heat treatment at least equivalent to pasteurization; c) preservation at a maximum temperature of 6 °C from production to sale. Although the health/hygiene safety goals lawgivers wanted to achieve in the decree are clear, somewhat less- clear are those they set in creating laws regarding fresh egg pasta. In fact, this type of product is regulated

Figure 1. Differences between fresh pasta and dry pasta according to Italian law and from a technological standpoint

Dry pasta Fresh pasta Ingredients only durum wheat semolina use of soft wheat flour is permitted Humidity <12.5% bulk product: not set by law packaged product:

water ≥24% aw< 0.97 Preservability 3 years bulk product: temperature 4 °C max 5 days packaged product: temperature 4 °C not set by law Technological process shaping: extrusion under pressure shaping: normally lamination stabilization: drying stabilization: pasteurization 44 | pastaria international 4/2014

by law no. 580 dated 4 July 1967 and subsequent amendments, which establish that pasta produced using egg must be sold as "pasta all'uovo" (egg pasta) and must be produced using at least 4 hens' eggs (chicken) weighing at least 200 grams (without the shells) per kilogram of semolina. Verification of minimum egg content is carried out through gravimetric dosing of total sterols, expressed as digitonids and fat content of the ethereal extract (Ministerial Decree of 23 July 1994). The characteristics egg pasta must have were recently modified in Presidential Decree no. 41 dated 5 March 2013 which reduced the content of ethereal extract and sterols, re- spectively, to 2.50 grams and 0.130 grams in terms of 100 parts of dry matter. Over the years, the average cholesterol content per 100 grams of egg has decreased, becoming increasingly lower, probably due to the different way hens are raised, or the different methods used in quantifying it (D. Nav- iglio, 2001). In 1994, Guardiola et al. reported an overall value of between 324 and 392 mg/100 g, in 2002 Piiro- nen et al. indicated an overall value of between 361 and 370 mg/100 g, while recently Naviglio and Pizzolongo (2006) found an average value of 268 mg/100 g. Starting from this last value and considering the minimum addi- tion allowed by law and sterol content in the semolina of 0.43 g per kg, the sterol content compared with the dry matter in the pasta should be 0.125 g/100 g. The value obtained is lower than the recently-established legal limit in effect of 0.130 g/100 g of dry matter. This law and relative consequences deriving from the production of products that do not conform to national legislation destined for the foreign market is out-dated and irrelevant, and even protectionist and detrimental to free competition in a market in which standards are in effect which require manufacturers to include in labeling the "essence" of the key ingredients to allow consumers to differentiate between the various products and there- fore make knowledgeable choices.

Manufacturing Process The manufacturing process for filled fresh pasta is summarized (with some variations) in Figure 2. It includes the following phases: • preparation of the filling: weighing, cutting and mixing of the ingredients utilized; • preparation of the pasta: dosing of recipe ingredients to produce the pasta (automatically or manually) and mixing them; • lamination or extrusion of the pasta sheet; • shaping the product (combining the pasta and filling); • pasteurization of the product in bulk (first heat treatment); • "incartamento": surface pre-drying of the product; • cooling; the whole Italian art of pasta in one machinery

MACCHINE PER PASTA FRESCA CAPITANI Vicolo Novaia, 10 22074 Lomazzo - CO Tel. + 39 02 96778142 Fax + 39 0296778193 [email protected] www.capitanionline.com 46 | pastaria international 4/2014

• modified atmosphere packaging; • optional pasteurization of the packaged product (second heat treatment). As can be seen, the product may be subjected to two heat treatments. The first immediately after shaping is carried out on the un-packaged product and is always performed. The second, performed on the product after it is packaged, is not always done, but if it is, it requires that the cooling phase of the packaged product be shift- ed prior to being placed in cartons. The second heat treatment was designed to eliminate any potential recon- tamination of the product between the first pasteurization and packaging, and today, for fresh pasta, is a phase that has been amply rendered superfluous by environmental control technologies. The differences between processes using a single or double heat pasteurization treatment are significant, but both have advantages and disadvantages that are weighed according to the criteria of each manufacturer. Specifically, a single heat treat- ment protects the organoleptic and nutritional properties of the product, as well as its appearance as a "fresh" product. But, despite this, for it to be efficacious, all phases following pasteurization must be managed with ut- most care and major attention must be paid to the hygienic conditions of the environment downstream from that

Figure 2. Fresh Pasta—Manufacturing Process

pasteurized egg semolina and/or flour water

KNEADING MACHINE

FILLING SHAPING LAMINATION

HEAT TREATMENT

SURFACE PRE-DRYING

COOLING

HEAT TREATMENT MAP

COOLING

STORAGE STORAGE 47 | pastaria international 4/2014

phase ("high risk zone") where normally environments with filtered and sterilized air are used. Double pasteuriza- tion is used to obtain more efficient thermal destruction and to avoid using a sterile environment in subsequent phases, although, of course, good hygienic standards must always be observed. Today, this latter technology is increasingly limited to "stabilized" products that generally require longer preservation periods. For a long time, the problem of preservation was the main obstacle to the development of fresh pasta. In fact, because of its intrinsic characteristics, fresh pasta lasts only a few days unless it is partially dried, but this alters its quality.

Pasteurizing fresh pasta The development of adequate preservation technologies that maintain the "freshness" characteristics of the product can be summed up, basically, to the application, in different periods, of two innovative solutions. The first, introduced in 1962 by Leandro Voltan, was the application to this food of the pasteurization pro- cess already used on other products. The "Voltan" technique made it possible to lengthen the life of fresh pasta by about 20-25 days, thus open- ing the way to mass production in this sector (Serventi and Sabban, 2000). As we shall see, this phase, created with the primary goal of eliminating pathogenic microorganisms and re- ducing adulterants, also has a significant impact on product quality and it has required optimization, through development of the technology involved, to minimize the negative effects it causes on the product. The sec- ond major innovation was introduced in 1983 by Giovanni Rana with the use—until then not permitted—of modified atmosphere packaging of the product. This second innovation made it possible to lengthen prod- uct shelf life by approximately another 30 days. But the story and development of fresh pasta is also connected to innumerable smaller developments that these and other entrepreneurs, attuned to taste and the needs of consumers who were increasingly looking for a "fresh" product, hastened to meet by applying ever-more advanced recipes and technologies. The result of this was that, in the 1990s, there was a gradual reduction and elimination of additives, and in order to preserve the product, a corresponding push towards the application of "obstacle technology" and elimination of the second heat treatment, with an improvement in "freshness"-related aspects of the prod- uct. Along with these changes, manufacturers also broadened their product range, offering new recipes and fla- vors that went beyond local tradition, but also new needs of the consumer (products using vegetables, fish, cheese, etc.), resulting in increasing product availability. Contributing to the spread throughout Italy of a product that, until then, had been predominantly a local

Customized machines and lines for special products

http://www.youtube.com/user/TheFoodTech

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Tel: 0039 049 9303590 [email protected] 49 | pastaria international 4/2014

Figure 3. Italian output of packaged fresh pasta (sales values)

1,200,000

1,000,000

800,000

600,000

400,000

200,000

source: APPF

or regional one, was the Fioravanti pasta company, the first producer in Italy to use the TV to publicize its product. With its ad "Plin plin tortellin con sei uova di gallina ed un chilo di farina, manzo, grana e prosciut- tini ecco i veri tortellini, sono buoni e sono tanti tortellini Fioravanti" ["Plin plin tortellini with six chicken eggs and a kilo of flour, beef, cheese and ham, these are real tortellini, they are good and are so many Fioravanti tortellini] in prime time advertising in the 1970s, it contributed to the growth of the mass-produced product and its popularity, that has now spread beyond the borders of Italy. In fact, as is seen in Figure 3, overall production of fresh past in Italy has continued to rise since 1992 and in recent years the growth trend has not halted, despite basically stable domestic consumption levels. This means there is a strong tendency to- wards export of this product which is increasingly popular on a European scale. What Voltan developed exclusively as a process of microbiological stabilization, over the ensuing decades required further development when it was realized that in fresh pasta, heat treatment also played an impor- tant role in some quality-related characteristics of the product. Recent studies (Alamprese et al., 2008; Alamprese et al., 2005b; Zardetto et al, 2002; Zardetto and Dalla Rosa, 2007) have confirmed what manufacturers had intuited for some time, by comparing the product be- fore and after treatment: heat treatment causes partial denaturation of the proteins which bind the protein network around partially swollen and deformed starch granules, causing changes in water activity, product texture and color and how it reacts to cooking. Pasteurized fresh pasta is less able to rehydrate itself during cooking in water than non-pasteurized pasta and the level of hydration depends on the intensity of the heat 50 | pastaria international 4/2014

treatment. As the intensity of the heat treatment increases, the protein network of the pasta strengthens, blocking the swelling of starch granules and reducing the resulting release of solid substances into the cooking water (Alamprese et al., 2005). In addition, pasteurization causes a change in the yellow color and an increase in the level of starch gelation (Zardetto et al., 2002; Zardetto and Dalla Rosa, 2007). As for all heat treatments, along with these positive aspects are also negative ones connected to the formation of unwanted substances (Zardetto et al., 2003; Zardetto et al., 2014) This is the reason for the need to optimize the process using a combination of time and temperature in or- der to maximize the positive effects and reduce the negative ones. Given in Figure 4 are the results of the increase in furosine on the time-temperature graph in relation to the pasteurization line (z=22.9°C). As can be seen, the work area identified in the temperature range of 94-100 °C makes it possible to obtain values of F70/10 that are compatible with the health-hygienic safety of the product and reduce the formation of the furosine molecule which indicates that the Mallaird reaction has initiated within the product (Zardetto et al., 2003).

Figure 4. Heat diagram optimization

Results of the increase in furosine on the time-temperature graph in relation to the pasteurization line (z=22.9°C) Time

Temperature (°C) source: Zardetto et al., 2003. Food Research International 51 | pastaria international 4/2014

Modified Atmosphere Packaging Modified Atmosphere Packaging (MAP) calls for the substitution of air present inside the package with other gasses (carbon dioxide and nitrogen, with O2 residue generally < 1-2%), and use in combination with other environmental factors to inhibit the growth of microorganisms and their production of toxins. Carbon dioxide influences microbial growth through lengthening of the LAG phase (L) and an increase in generation time (µ). Its action is strongly influenced by its concentration level and product preservation temperature. In fact, the inhibitory effect of carbon dioxide on growth parameters increases as the temperature decreas- es. Given in Figure 5 is the effect of the temperature on the maximum speed of the growth of a mould caus- ing alteration, found in filled fresh pasta. As can be noted, the inhibitory effect of carbon dioxide increases as the temperature decreases, with the difference in the speed of growth between MAP and open-air sam- ples that increases as the temperature decreases. Therefore, the best results are obtained by taking advan- tage of the synergic effect of the joint application of MAP and low preservation temperatures (Zardetto S., 2004). The concentration level of carbon dioxide used also influences generation time, especially under conditions of excessive temperature. Figure 6 shows that the speed of microorganism growth at a constant temper-

Figure 5. Effects of temperature on the inhibitory action of carbon dioxide on the growth of mould causing alteration in packaged filled fresh pasta

Trend in maximum speed of growth based on temperature. The inhibitory effect of carbon dioxide on growth parameters increases as the temperature decreases. Growth (mm/h) Growth

• Air MAP

Temperature (°C) source: Zardetto, 2004. Tecnica Molitoria 52 | pastaria international 4/2014

Figure 6. Effects of the percentage of carbon dioxide on the speed of growth of microorganisms at constant temperature

The speed of growth of the microorganism at a constant temperature (15 °C) is influenced

by the % of CO2

source: Zardetto, 2005. Food Microbiology

ature (15 °C) is influenced by the percentage of carbon dioxide. As can be seen, the speed of growth de- creases with the increase in percentage of carbon dioxide up to a concentration level of 70% that makes it possible to completely inhibit the microorganism while protecting alteration in the product, including under conditions of excessive heat (Zardetto S., 2005). The influence of small variations in temperature in refrigerated products is often underestimated. In fact, there is a tendency to think that small variations of 1-2 °C do not have a significant effect on product pres- ervation. Figure 7 provides the values (in hours) required for a colony of Penicillium aurantigriseum mould to reach a diameter of 3 mm, a size that is visible to the human eye and therefore results in the product being rejected. Under optimum storage conditions (4 °C) and in MAP, the colony is visible after 60 days, reducing to 22 days with a constant storage temperature of 6 °C with a reduction in product shelf life of over 50% (Zardetto S., 2004).

Figure 7. Product rejection time

Temperature °C Testing conditions 4 5 6 15 25 w/o MAP (hrs) 164 134 115 55 31 MAP (hrs) 1452 800 384 106 52 fonte: Zardetto 2004, Tecnica Molitoria

54 | pastaria international 4/2014

Microbiological and health/hygiene aspects of fresh pasta Microbiological problems associated with fresh pasta have been examined by a number of authors (Piova- no, 1987; Aureli et al., 1993; Dalla Rosa et al., 1993). The sources of risk can be traced back to the ingredients used in the preparation of the pasta and filling (Staphylococcus aureus, Salmonella spp., Clostridium, Listeria monocytogenes) and the environmental con- ditions in the workplace. The risk of salmonella contamination can always be traced back to the raw materials, in particular the use of refrigerated fresh eggs and fresh meat. Salmonella spp. is generally not found in packages of fresh pasta sold commercially (Trovatelli et al., 1988; Farber et al., 1993). In terms of Listeria monocytogenes, the limited number of studies available are contradictory. Caseario et al., (1989) report the presence of this microorganism in samples of fresh pasta filled with meat, while a study carried out by Foti and Vezzano (1991) on 52 samples of filled fresh pasta indicated that this microor- ganism was absent, while Listeria innocua was present in 15% of the samples with meat filling. Toxin growth and production by Clostridium botulinum are indicated by some authors (Del Torre et al., 1998; Schebor and Chirife, 2000) as the main risk connected with the production and consumption of filled fresh pasta. To-date, no case associated with the consumption of this product has been recorded. However, the possible presence of spores from some ingredients used in preparing the filling makes filled fresh pasta a potential risk for this type of food poisoning. Clostridium botulinum strains are divided into four groups based on their physiological characteristics. Of these, groups III and IV have little relevance to cases of food botulism. In terms of group I which includes proteolytic strains of this microorganism, storage temperature would seem to play an important role in the preservation of filled fresh pasta. Studies carried out on these products have shown that even in the case of prolonged excessive heat (12 °C), the proliferation and production of toxins by this microorganism does not occur. At 20 °C these combinations proved to be efficacious for reduced periods of storage and the results are influenced, in any case, by the type of filling (Glass et al., 1991). Group II includes non-proteolytic strains that are more sensitive to heat and the lowering of water activity which, unlike proteolytic strains, multiply and produce toxins at refrigerated temperatures up to 3.3 °C. Risk control for this group of microorganisms includes the elimination of spores present in raw materials and/or inhibiting the germination and growth of those that survive the heat treatment. In conformity with the provisions in the ACMSF (1992) and ECFF (1996) guides, security of REPFED (Re- frigerated Processed Food of Extended Durability) products in terms of this microorganism can be ensured through heat treatments which assure a 6D reduction in the initial microbial load of non-proteolytic clostrid- 55 | pastaria international 4/2014

ium. A time-temperature combination of 10 minutes at 90 °C or equivalent treatment was proposed to as- sure this decimal reduction. If the product is not subjected to a heat treatment of this level, spore germination and growth must be in- hibited by other factors, for example a 5% content of sodium chloride (table salt), water activity level below 0.97, pH below 5.0 or, alternatively, storage at a temperature below 3.0 ºC (ACMSF, 1992; ECFF, 1996). Therefore, conforming with the water activity level of 0.97 set in the Italian Presidential Decree no. 187 dat- ed 9 February 2001 becomes relevant in terms of the preservability and health-hygienic safety of filled pasta to assure that any spores that might have survived the product pasteurization process do not develop and form toxins. Given the type of process and its chemical-physical characteristics, filled fresh pasta preserved at a tem- perature below 6 °C does not exhibit and does not develop either pathogenic microorganisms or enzymatic decay. Often, product deterioration is caused by moulds and yeasts. Some types of mould, in particular Penicillium can even develop slowly at temperatures below 8 °C and alter the product when the carbon dioxide level is insufficient. Because yeasts are microaerophilic microorganisms, in the presence of excessive heat they can cause alteration in the product resulting in swelling of the package (species which produce carbon dioxide) and/or product acidification. The primary process of product decay is seen in organoleptic modifications during storage. Although these modifications do not cause abnormal changes in taste or smell, they do re- sult in a continuous decrease in the gustative characteristics of the product, up to the complete loss of any taste. Indicatively, fresh pasta should be consumed after having been boiled in water for between 1 and 10 min- utes, depending on the thickness of the pasta. Figure 8 provides the results of survival rates of Salmonella enteritidis inoculated at a concentration of 106 UFC/g in fresh pasta with a meat filling. As can be seen, this microorganism was found only when the product was cooked for 30 seconds. The cooking time generally recommended for this type of product—between 2 and 5 minutes—is therefore sufficient to eliminate con- centrations of Salmonella enteritidis up to 6 log UFC/g (Zardetto and Di Fresco, 2000). In fresh pasta as provided for in Ministerial Decree no. 209 of 27 February 1996, no type of coloring is permitted (art. 6, par. 2, Appendix IV), although the following additives may be used in the product: acidity regulators: permitted are lactic acid (E 270), citric acid (E 330), tartaric acid (E 334), glucono-del- ta-lactone (E 575) (art. 15, par. 1, Appendix IV, M.D. no. 209 of 27 February 1996); they must be utilized in accordance with good manufacturing practice and in amounts that do not exceed what is necessary to at- tain the set goal and with the proviso that they are not used to deceive the consumer; preservatives: sorbic acid (E200), potassium sorbate (E202), calcium sorbate (E203); their use is permitted 56 | pastaria international 4/2014

Figure 8. Survival of Salmonella enteritidis to domestic cooking in filled fresh pasta

Time (seconds) Presence 30 +/+ 60 -/- 90 -/- 300 -/- + = presence in 25 g of product - initial inoculum 106 UFC/g source: Zardetto et al., 2000, Tecnica Molitoria in filled dry and fresh pasta and in packaged gnocchi in the amount of 1 g/kg of filling or product (gnocchi) (art. 15, par. 1, Appendix XI, M.D. no. 209 of 27 February 1996); anti-oxidants: permitted are ascorbic acid (E 300), sodium ascorbate (E 301) (art. 15, par. 1, Appendix IV, M.D. no. 209 of 27 February 1996); they must be utilized in accordance with good manufacturing practice and in amounts that do not exceed what is necessary to attain the set goal and with the proviso that they are not used to deceive the consumer; emulsifiers: permitted are mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids (E 471), lecithin (E 322). Today, in mass-produced products found on the market, limited use is made of preservatives because the good level attained in managing all phases subsequent to the pasteurization phase has made it possible for most manufacturers to "limit" environmental contamination downstream from that phase which represented the source of product alteration during its shelf life and the reason for the use of these additives.

Conclusions To conclude, it can be stated that: 1) the manufacturing process for fresh pasta in Italy has "evolved" through the change and optimization of a number of phases with the purpose of obtaining equivalent processes capable of improving product character- istics; 2) studies regarding this type of product have always confirmed the health-hygienic safety of the product guar- anteed by heat treatment and control of packaging and preservation phases at a temperature below 6 °C; 3) today, the use of some additives is very often unjustified; 4) fresh pasta is an Italian product that is increasingly popular on the European market, with a strong export trend. Italian law regarding pasta manufacture and sale has not always kept up with changes in technology and the market. 57 | pastaria international 4/2014

Bibliography Advisory Committee on the Microbiological Safety of Food (ACMSF) (1992). Report on vacuum packaging anda associated processes. Alamprese, C., Casiraghi, E., Primavesi, L., Rossi, M., Hidalgo, A..(2005). Functional and rheological characteris- tics of fresh egg pasta. Italian Journal of Food Science, 27, 3-15. Alamprese, C., Iametti, S., Rossi, M., Bergonzi, D., (2005b). Role of pasteurization heat treatments on rheolog- ical and protein structural characteristics of fresh egg pasta. European Food Research Technology, 221, 759- 767. Alamprese, C., Casiraghi, E., Rossi, M.. (2008). Structural and cooking properties of fresh egg pasta as function of pasteurization treatment intensity. Journal of Food Engineering, 89, 1-7. Aureli, P., Ferrini. A.M., Gianfranceschi, M. (1993). Problemi igienico sanitari delle paste alimentari fresche: dalla produzione alla commercializzazione. Convegno FARPASTA, Rimini 17 maggio 1993. Caseario, G., Gronchi, C., Villa, C.. (1989). Listeria in carni, pesce, pollame, paste farcite e vegetali. Industrie Ali- mentari, 3, 250-252. Dalla Rosa, M., Maltini, E., Stecchini, M.L., (1993). Caratterizzazione delle paste fresche farcite confezionate at- traverso i convenzionali fattori di stabilità. Università degli Studi di Udine. Del Torre, M., Stecchini, M.L., Peck, M.. (1998). Investigation of the ability of proteolitic Clostridium Botulinum to multiply and produce toxin in fresh Italian pasta. J. Food Protection, 8, 988-993. European Chilled Food Federation (ECFF) (1996): Recommendations for the production of prepackaged chilled food. Farber, J.M., Warburton, D.W., Laffey, P., Purvis, U., Gour, L., (1993). Modified-atmosphere packaged pasta: a microbiological quality assessment. Italian Journal Food Science 157- 166. Foti, S., Vezzani, E. (1991). Indagine conoscitiva sulla presenza di Listeria monocytogenes nelle paste ripiene. Tecnica molitoria, 2, 97-105. Glass, K.A., Doyle, M.P., (1991). Relationship between water activity of fresh pasta and toxin production by pro- teolytic Clostridium botulinum. Journal of Food Protection, 3, 162- 165. Guardiola F., Codony R., Rafecas M., Boatella J., (1994). Selective gas chromatographic determination of cho- lesterol in eggs. JAOCS, Vol. 71, no. 8, 867-871. Naviglio D., Pizzolongo F., (2006). Problematiche analitiche relative alla preparazione e al controllo delle paste all'uovo. Tecnica Molitoria 57 (2) 121-130. Naviglio D., (2001). Contenuto di colesterolo nelle uova e sua relazione con le diverse parti dell'uovo. Atti 5° Congresso Italiano di Scienza e Tecnologia degli Alimenti. CISETA, Chiriotti Editore 2002, 992-1003. 58 | pastaria international 4/2014

Piironen V., Toivo J., Lampi, A.M., (2002). New data for cholesterol contents in meat, fish, milk, eggs and their products consumed in Finland. Journal of Food Composition and Analysis. 15, 705–713. Piovano, B., (1987). Variazione della carica batterica in campioni di paste farcite artigianali. Tecnica Molitoria; 283-285. Schebor, C., Chirife, J., (2000). A survey of water activity and pH values in fresh pasta packed under modified atmosphere manufactured in Argentina and Uruguay. Journal of Food Protection. 63, 965-9. Serventi, S., Sabban, F.. (2000). La pasta: storia e cultura di un cibo universale. Editori Laterza. Roma. 284-286. Trovatelli, LD., Schiesser, A., Massa, S., Cesaroni, D., Poda,G., (1988). Microbiological quality of fresh pasta dumplings sold in Bologna and surrounding district. International Journal of Food Microbiology, 19-24. Zardetto, S., Di Fresco, S., (2002). Influence of storage modality on Salmonella enteritidis in experimentally inoc- ulated fresh filled pasta. Tecnica Molitoria, 51, 609-621. Zardetto, S., Di Fresco, S., Dalla Rosa, M., (2002). Effect of different heat treatments on chemical and physical properties of filled fresh pasta. Tecnica Molitoria, 53, 113-130. Zardetto, S., Dalla Rosa, M., Di fresco, S., (2003). Effects of different heat treatments on the furosine content in fresh filled pasta. Food Research International, 36, 887-883. Zardetto, S. (2004). Effect of temperature and modified atmosphere on the growth of Penicillium aurantiogrise- um isolated from fresh filled pasta. Tecnica Molitoria 1, 1-9. Zardetto, S. (2005). Effect of modified atmosphere packaging at abuse temperature on the growth of Penicillium aurantiogriseum isolated from fresh filled pasta. Food Microbiology, 22, 367-371. Zardetto, S., Dalla Rosa, M., (2007). Effect of heat treatment on the microbiology and quality of fresh filled pasta. In: New Issues in Food Policy, Control and Research. New York: Nova Science Publishers, Inc,. 45-66. Zardetto, S., Barbanti, D., Dalla Rosa, M. (2014). Formation of cholesterol oxidation products (COPs) and loss of cholesterol in fresh egg pasta as a function of thermal treatment processing. Food Research International, 62, 177-182. download our app! it's free 59 | pastaria international 4/2014

The Voltan Group The Voltan Group is comprised of two separate companies (Voltan S.p.a. and Giordani S.p.a.) and owns three manufacturing facilities, all certified in conformity with ISO 9001, ISO 22000, OHSAS 18001, IFS and BRC stand- ards, and its food testing lab is accredited under ISO/IEC 17025 standard. From 1937, the year in which it was founded, until 1980, the year it became a limited company, it was a fami- ly-owned company led first by its founder until 1969, and then by his son Giovanni. In fact, the company has over 60 years of experience in the production of fresh filled and unfilled pasta. It was founded in Mestre by Leandro Voltan and began operation as an artisanal production facility for fresh filled egg pasta. In 1969, its plant in Olmo di Martellago (Venice, Italy) was opened, marking the beginning of an indus- trial production process. In order to offer consumers a fresh, hygienically-safe product, as early as 1958 the company began to utilize the pasteurization process (the first in Italy to file a patent). In 1985, as part of an overall plan to optimize its logistic and distributive facilities, the company’s offices, ware- housing and storage units were expanded. In 1988, the corporate structure was changed from that of a limited company to a stock company. 60 | pastaria international 4/2014

In 1990 its manufacturing plant was doubled and, at the same time, a number of technological innovations were implemented to provide for a considerable increase in production capacity. In 1995, the creation of an in-house testing and research laboratory saw the birth of its own internal R&D center. In Mirano in 1996 a new plant was built for the production of gnocchi, and in 2001 this activity was transferred to the current manufacturing facilities. In July 2005, Giordani S.p.a. became part of the Voltan Group, with the factory in Marcon. The Voltan Group produces and sells fresh filled and unfilled egg pasta, dried and stabilized pasta, gnocchi and frozen and refrigerated ready meals. In 2013 it produced and sold 400,000 portions per day, with annual billings of 50 million euros. In addition, the company has always put on-going evolution and innovation as a corporate goal, made possible through the untiring efforts of its R&D center. All research and studies it has carried out and, in some cases, pub- lished, form the groundwork for its pioneering efforts in product innovation and represent a solid guarantee of quality in production processes that are carefully controlled and managed (35,000 tests carried out on the ingredi- ents, before and during processing, and on the end product in 2013). The group currently has around 250 employees who, thanks to their experience, have reached and maintain a high level of expertise and specialization. Voltan Group, an established supplier for some of the most important large-scale distribution channels, produces own-brand products for various Italian and foreign retail chains. TORTELLINI TO A T Only the combination of love of tradition and twenty years’ experience in the production of automatic shaping units for filled pasta could develop industrial machines with the capacity to produce tortellini and tortelloni that seem handmade. Indeed, our high performance machines follow QUALITY to a t the manual techniques of the dexterous Emilian “sfogline” (female Processing of pasta which is pasta makers), thereby guaranteeing continuity with the local tradition. always fresh with minimum recycling of dough scraps (less than 7%). Special filling injection system which ensures that the quality of the filling is maintained intact.

SAVINGS Exceptionally efficient use of the pasta sheets: up to 90%. For the diagonal cut – unique and patented – shaping of several different products using the same sheet (up to 30% more than competitors).

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TRADITION Innovative front closure in keeping with the typical shape of the original recipe for real Emilian tortellini and tortelloni.

Cavallini Moreno Via G. Verdi, 43 - 40011 Anzola dell’Emilia (BO) - Italy T. +39 051 720520 - F. +39 051 720409 - Mob. 335 6624623 [email protected] - www.formatrici-pasta.com 62 | pastaria international 4/2014

horse meat: a european scandal that offers new risk for the italian market

by Marina Nadia Losio1, Stefano Bilei2, Barbara Bertasi1, Elisabetta Delibato3, Paola De Santis2, Dario De Medici3 (in fotografia) 1) Istituto Zooprofilattico della Lombardia e Emilia Romagna (Brescia) 2) Istituto Zooprofilattico del Lazio e Toscana (Rome) 3) Istituto Superiore di Sanità (Rome)

Feature article: proceedings of the European Fresh Pasta and Gnocchi Conference (Venice, 30 May 2014) 63 | pastaria international 4/2014

Starting in the 1960s international trade in the food sector has undergone an exponential increase, much higher than the total quantity of what was actually produced. The value of international trade in this key productive sector rose from $ 438 billion in 1998 to $ 1,060 billion in 2008—an increase of 2.3 times—while, during the same period, total world food production grew just 1.4 times, from $ 1,400 to $ 1,780 billion. In 2030, the demand for food on a worldwide level will increase by 50%, with a resulting increase in international trade in this sector. While on the one hand this vast and rapid flow of food products from one part of the planet to the other contributes to ensuring consumers have availability to all types of foods irrespective of the season and where they are produced, on the other it represents the ideal platform for the spread of contaminants. One of the most important tools for guaranteeing that these foods are safe from a health and hygiene standpoint, is the availability of traceability of the origin of the various ingredients. EC regulation no. 178/2002 of the European Parliament and Council, dated 28 January 2002, establishes that those operating in the food sector are responsible for product traceability throughout all phases of the production supply chain, from processing to distribution, including ingredients added to foods. However, the recent scandal involving horse meat, as in other crisis situations in the sanitary field, highlighted the difficulty of applying traceability regarding the complex nature of international trade of food products. In January 2013, in Ireland, horse meat was found in frozen beef hamburgers and on February 8th, the United Kingdom informed the European Commission that a British company had sold lasagna prepared with beef from a French company. Testing of the meat sauce used in preparing the lasagna revealed the presence of horse meat at a concentration of 80-100%. In early March 2013, European Health Commissioner Tonio Borg announced a 5-point action plan designed to remedy the above-mentioned problems: 1. creation of a system similar to RASFF for the rapid exchange of fraud-related alerts and information; 2. control program; 3. passport for horses (amendment of EC 504/2008); 4. implementation of official controls and fines; 5. country of origin labelling. Italian laboratories who have been active in the area of official controls for years are involved in identifying different animal species because the presence of different species, compared with that declared in a food, can be relevant on a sanitary and legal level in a variety of ways. The main aspects to be considered are: 64 | pastaria international 4/2014

• health and hygiene, in the event the food product contains an ingredient that could trigger allergies or intolerances in consumers, the presence of which consumers are unaware. The potential presence of substances harmful to health that could be present as a corollary result of food fraud; • ethical-religious, in the event animals considered to be household pets (dogs, cats, horses for Anglo- Saxon consumers) or prohibited by religion (pork for Muslims and Jews) are utilized; • economic, in the event superior or quality products are replaced with less-select or low-quality products, creating unlawful profit to the detriment of consumers. To demonstrate the presence of an animal species in a food, various analytical methods may be used: • immunological, based on the reaction between the proteins of a specific animal species contained in the food and antibodies capable of recognizing them, supported by various reaction and detection systems; • electrophoretic, based on the ability to separate animal proteins through capillary electrophoresis or agarose gel electrophoresis; this separation can be implemented through the addition of molecules which create a pH gradient to pinpoint each protein within its specific isoelectric point; • molecular, targeted to specific gene sequences in animal DNA and which utilize the Polymerase Chain Reaction (PCR) or real-time PCR. Although sensitive, immunological and electrophoretic methods cannot be utilized for determining different animal species in foods that undergo heat treatment in which the proteins are denatured. In recent years, an attempt has been made to avoid this problem through the use of molecular methods based on PCR and real-time PCR, which have the requisites (stability, reproducibility and specificity) required to also be applied to matrices that are complex and subject to heat treatments. In particular, the majority of qualitative molecular methods (presence/absence of species under examination) developed and utilized to-date, call for the amplification of mitochondrial DNA in various animal species. Within the context of this emergency, on 19 February 2013 a European recommendation was issued dealing with a coordinated control plan with a view to establish the prevalence of fraudulent practices in the marketing of certain foods to verify the prevalence of fraudulent practices in the marketing of foods containing meat. The recommended control plan involved two aspects: • detect any presence of horse meat not properly declared (in fact, all ingredients must be declared on the label and, for products containing meat as an ingredient, the species of the meat must be indicated); • determine the presence of phenylbutazone residues (a powerful non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug that may only be used in animals used for racing and not those destined for slaughter). 65 | pastaria international 4/2014

It should be stressed that the plan was initiated because of a health alert (risk of phenylbutazone for humans), while later focusing on the commercial aspect. Simultaneous with this recommendation, the European Union Reference Laboratory for Animal Proteins in feedingstuffs (EURL-AP) published the real-time PCR analytical method to be used in detecting horse meat in samples taken as part of the plan. Nonetheless, it should be noted that analysis could also be performed using other methods, as long as they were valid and recognized by the EURL-AP. A number of Istituti Zooprofilattici Sperimentali (IIZZSS - Experimental Zootechnic Institutes), involved in the plan, utilized previously-validated analytical methods designed to detect DNA in different animal species in a wide variety of food matrices. Utilizing these methods, 361 samples were analyzed, 324 in the Lombardy and Emilia Romagna Zootechnic Institute alone, of which 14 did not conform due to the presence of horse meat. The labs using the multiplex method—i.e., simultaneous detection of multiple animal species in the same sample—were also able to detect in the samples analyzed the presence of other animal species not declared on the label. For the majority of samples that tested positive, a second analysis was requested at the Istituto Superiore di Sanità (ISS), which in the meantime had accredited the EURL-AP method. All samples analyzed by the ISS resulted positive for the presence of horse meat, confirming the IIZZSS tests. In Europe, 4,144 samples were analyzed, of which 193—4.4% of the total—resulted positive for the presence of horse meat. The percentage of positive samples placed Italy in a mid-position on a European level. At the same time, a monitoring plan involving 7,999 samples initiated by manufacturers revealed the presence of horse meat in 111 samples (1.1%). The European Community recently followed up with a second coordinated control plan to uncover fraudulent practices, and in Italy 150 samples must be analyzed to verify the presence of horse meat. To assist European laboratories involved in the plan, the EURL-AP has distributed reference materials for performing semi-quantitative analysis of the potential presence of equine DNA. This emergency, like others that have occurred in recent years, has underscored the need for cooperation between manufacturers, relevant public health bodies and research institutes as the only tool for guaranteeing safe food usage. Safe food usage should also include guarantees regarding food product authenticity as a new frontier for implementing the sale of Italian food products on a global level. Jelex Seafood A/S – Your salmon ingredients supplier

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Jelex Seafood A/S Brendelsig 9 DK 9370 Hals +45 98258500 [email protected] www.jelex.dk Customized orders · Quality products · On time deliveries 67 | pastaria international 4/2014

interesting aspects of eu legislation on pesticides residues, contaminants, food labelling

by Gerhard Weber Bundesverband der deutschen Feinkostindustrie Fachverband der Gewürzindustrie European Spice Association ESA

Feature article: proceedings of the European Fresh Pasta and Gnocchi Conference (Venice, 30 May 2014) 68 | pastaria international 4/2014

More civil servants work in the Government of one EU Member State than in the EU Commission in rela- tion to the population. A "handful" of experts in Brussels set the frame for the entire EU legislation looking for fact and science based solutions. Source of problems are Council and EU Parliament (politics). Political issues are put at EU level and "po- litical" solutions are found.

Legislation in Europe is under constant change What influences legislation? • consumer information/protection; • new scientifc findings/analytical methods; • EU harmonisation/world trade; • political issues.

Pesticide residues Regulation (EC) NO 396/2005 on maximum residue levels of pesticides in or on food and feed of plant and animal origin is the basis for the European pesticide legislation. Practically, every substance that is analysed in a food is regarded "pesticide residue", if the substance is now or has ever been used as pesticide somewhere in the world. The maximum residue limit set in the Regulation must be applied. This triggers a lot of problems, for example: • nicotine in ceps (fungi porcini); • nicotine in herbs and spices; • biphenyl in nutmeg; • anthrachinone in herbal infusions; • chlorates in products of plant origin; • mercury in mushrooms. Due to the progress in analytical methods more and more of less and less can be found in food. Mercury is taken up by mushrooms from the soil in the forest. Biphenyl may be formed by the nutmeg plant. Nicotine may be formed by the mushroom. Perchlorates are natural constituents of fertilisers and can be found in plants. QAVs are used to desinfect materials in contact with food in industry and mass catering. Chlorates are present due to the washing of food with chlorinated drinking water. ITALGI: pasta from 20 to 250 Kg/h [email protected] - www.italgi.it 70 | pastaria international 4/2014

All these substances fall under the pesticide Regulation. Since more than 5 years industry is in discussion with the Commission trying to have a change of the pesticide legislation: 1) pesticide residues are the result of applying a pesticide; 2) contaminations are unintentionally present due to (environmental) reasons. A difference legislation must accept. The Commission now is working on a revision of the pesticide legislation. Residue levels will be set for: • pesticides, applied to the product; • contaminants, unintentionally present; • biocides, present because of contact to workers. This requires: • new risk assessment model • new food categories (e.g. processed food) • fast track procedure to amend the Regulation (in less than 12 months) It would be ideal if the Regulation is harmonised with the rest of the world! This could help solving import problems.

Food labelling and nutrition profiles "By 19 January 2009, the Commission shall establish specific nutrient profiles, including exemptions, which food or certain categories of food must comply with in order to bear nutrition or health claims and the conditions for the use of nutrition or health claims for foods or categories of foods with respect to the nutrient profiles" (Regulation (EC) no. 1924/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council, of 20 December 2006 , on nutrition and health claims made on foods, article 4). Nothing has happened, no nutrition profiles were set. Only a few (in relation to the number of applications) nutrition or health claims have been permitted to date. EFSA and Commission are facing problems in putting the Regulation into reality.

Nutrient declaration and portion sizes "To facilitate the comparison of products in different package sizes, it is appropriate to retain the require- ment that the mandatory nutrition declaration should refer to 100 g or 100 ml amounts and, if appropri- ate, to allow additional portion-based declarations." (Regulation (EU) no. 1169/2011 of the European 71 | pastaria international 4/2014

Parliament and of the Council, of 25 October 2011, Whereas 35). Portion sizes for sauces are missing (gravy, pasta sauces etc.). Different culinary habits in the Member States of the EU make it difficult to recommend one specific por- tion size for sauces. Define a range? Differentiation between different types of sauces necessary since consumption patterns vary e.g. pesto sauce, sauce Hollandaise, gravy. Information about typical consumption patterns / culinary habits in the different Member States is needed. So far: • gravy 25-100 ml; • pasta sauce 85-100 ml (max 150 ml for bolognese sauce); 72 | pastaria international 4/2014

• pesto 50 g. Probably no EU portion size for sauces is possible.

Country of origin labelling (COOL) he EU Commission has asked a Consultant to assess the mandatory country of origin labelling for ingre- dients that represent more than 50% of a food. This might affect pasta sauces, pesto (e.g. tomato paste, herbs) and pasta (flour). The EC Consultant will present the findings of an electronic research and of meetings with the food sec- tors in September 2014.

Conclusions In general we observe that EU legislation is no longer precise and clear. Too much political influence from Council (Member States) and EU Parliament results in compromises making legislation less precise and clear. “Solution”: the EC Commission is publishing “guidelines/questions and answers” which are meant to help understand the legislation. Examples for guidelines: • Guidance Notes on EC Import Tolerances; • Guidance on the Implementation of Articles 11, 12, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 of Regulation (EC) N° 178/2002 on General Food Law; • Guidance notes on the classification of food extracts with colouring properties; • Guidance document describing the food categories in Part E of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1333/2008 on Food Additives; • Questions and Answers on the application of the Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 on the provision of food information to Consumers. Often enough we (the industry) have other questions and the answers from the Commission do not an- swer our questions. These guidelines often do not help in daily work.

74 | pastaria international 4/2014

foodtechmaster pavan school of food technologies 2014 editions

by Gruppo Pavan

This year, the calendar of the Pavan Group’s specialist courses includes an important addition: Foodtechmaster Pro, advanced courses for students who have already attended the Pavan school. The 2014 course will be dedicated to gluten-free pasta and nutraceutics 75 | pastaria international 4/2014

The FoodTechMasters is a series of professional training courses that Pavan Group has been organising for 15 years, with the aim of sharing knowledge and expertise on food production technology. Each professional course provides in-depth technological knowhow on the production of pellets snacks, dry pasta and fresh pasta. Next edition of Pavan school will concern dry pasta production and take place from 15th to 19th September, Five days full time training course covering the entire pasta production process: raw materials, basics of reology, production technology, drying process, energy efficiency, lab test and products evaluation. Furthermore, Pavan is launching next October (13th to 15th) a new kind of advanced courses. The Food Tech Master PRO are advanced specialization courses targeted to students who have already attended a previous FoodTechMaster. The 2014 edition will focus on the theme of gluten free and nutraceutical pasta. The growing number of people affected by coeliac disease (steadily increasing over the past 20 years), and the ever greater spreading of food intolerances, have led to a strong market demand for “alternative” food products 76 | pastaria international 4/2014

characterized by the total absence of gluten. Among these, pasta has been taking up an increasingly important role, probably because it is sold all over the world and also because it actually represents one of the main everyday dishes in many countries around the world. With the aim of improving the quality of gluten free pasta, Pavan Group will offer a completely new specialization course held by Professors of the Academic community and Process Engineers of Pavan Group Pasta Division on how to produce gluten-free pasta by processing unconventional flour. The main problem in producing gluten-free pasta is namely the lack of gluten that is the perfect structuring agent of traditional, durum wheat pasta. In the absence of this protein matrix, which grants pasta its consistency, body and elasticity, it is necessary to “build” something similar, starting from the starch matrix: a certain percentage of starch must be gelatinized to such extent that pasta reaches a good consistency without becoming gummy. Two solutions can be adopted: the use of pre-gelatinized flour (flour that underwent a thermal or hydrothermal treatment, but sometimes also chemical modification) or the appropriate processing of unconventional flour. Well aware of the problems connected with the use of chemically modified raw materials and of the high cost of pre-treated flour, Pavan went for the second option already in the late 80's, exploiting its own ability to develop adequate technological processes. The process developed by Pavan consists in a first hydration stage, followed by a thermal treatment stage with steam injection and a final stage where the extrusion screw is fed under vacuumDuring the course students will go through this technology and experience Pavan process for gluten free pasta production. Applications for Pavan Group FoodTechMasters can be filed directly in a dedicated web site (www. Foodtechmaster.com), by filling in the subscription form and sending it to the Pavan Marketing Department, which will send a confirmation by return. Seminars take place in Pavan Conference Center, Pavan Group Headquarters, Galliera Veneta (Padua, Italy) The Pavan Group training offer is targeted at plant managers, production managers, R&D managers, quality control managers and technical production engineers from all over the world. Lessons are usually held in English and Spanish, but they may be held also in other languages depending on the total number of applicants for a given language. Courses consist of an intensive week of lectures dedicated to one of the above mentioned topics. Students coming from all over the world explore every aspect of the subject, lectured by speakers and experts from the academic world and by Pavan Group process managers. Trainees will take advantage of a unique training experience made of theory and practical exercises implemented on pilot plants and completed by organoleptic and sensory assessment tests. This combination allows students to get familiar with the products and apply the theoretical knowledge learned during the lectures. The constant research of Pavan Group is supported by several relationships with Universities and the 77 | pastaria international 4/2014

academic world. Lectures, specific projects and activities for Pavan Group FoodTechmasters are carried out with University of Udine Department of Food Science) , University of Calabria (Department of Modelling for Engineering) , D.I.S.T.A.M. Department of Food Science and Microbiology) of the University of Milan, Experimental Institute for Grain Growth of Rome, National Institute for Research of Food Products and nutrition of Rome, University of Molise DISTAAM - Department of Food Technology, TecnoAlimenti, U.C.MA.A (Union of Manufacturers for the Food Industry). With the latter institution Pavan has promoted the definition of the “European Standards” for the Safety of the production systems of fresh pasta. For more info www.foodtechmaster.com for informations [email protected]

79 | pastaria international 4/2014

fourth aidepi annual meeting

by AIDEPI

Paolo Barilla, president of AIDEPI

Paolo Barilla, president of AIDEPI, the Italian Association of Confectionery and Pasta Industries: "What is facing us is no longer a temporary crisis, what is needed is a significant transformation in the main elements in doing business" 80 | pastaria international 4/2014

PASTA

% Variation Value in millions of % Variation Volume in tons 2013/2012 euros 2013/2012

PRODUCTION 3,408,499 +2.3 4,652 +0.2 of which - dried pasta 3,255,040 +2.6 3,897 +0.8 - fresh pasta 153,459 -2.4 745 -3.1 EXPORT 1,901,304 +5.4 2,014 +3.9

PER CAPITA 25.3 -1.2 CONSUMPTION (kg) of which - dried pasta 22.7 -1.3 - fresh pasta 2.6 = source: AIDEPI

Once again, pasta confirms itself to be the jewel in the crown of Italy. According to statistics presented June 18 during the annual meeting of AIDEPI, in terms of volume, pasta grew 2.3% overall, while in terms of value it was +0.2%. In fact, despite the difficult economic climate, companies in the confectionery and pasta sector have con- firmed their commitment and have concentrated their efforts to assure new, quality products, as stressed by President Paolo Barilla: “While it is true that many consumers have reduced spending on food products, it is also true that a broad share is extremely interested in purchasing more sophisticated products with a high nu- tritional content, in which an effort has been made to satisfy and explore new flavors.” Despite the complexity of government bureaucracy and the uncertainty of the political climate which certainly do not contribute to economic recovery, companies have found opportunities for development. This is also thanks to initiatives specifically aimed at supporting export channels through the partnership with the Milan Trade Fair organization in a number of emerging markets including China, India and Brazil. Exports remain the driver for growth and in terms of AIDEPI sectors, pasta has always offered a very high pro- pensity for export in volume terms, over 55% of national production, as does the confectionery sector which, overall, reached 45%. Pasta performed excellently in Venezuela (+153.7%), China (+41.7%) and Ukraine (+37.7%). Since 2005, Ital- 81 | pastaria international 4/2014

ian pasta exports have not ceased to grow. In 2013, the Italian export quota rose 5.4% on the previous year, for a total export volume of over 1,900,000 tons with a value of over 2 billion euros and an increase over 2012 of nearly 4%. Among those countries which import the largest quantities of Italian pasta, Germany remains in the lead with an increase in volume compared with 2012 of over +4% and, in terms of value, of over +5.5%. It was followed by France, the United Kingdom, the United States, Japan and Russia. Of special note is Libya where, also thanks to the significant presence of Italians, there was a +201% in volume and +157% in value compared with 2012. “There persists, however,” Paolo Barilla continues, “the lack of an integrated, nationwide system for promoting Italian products which are at a disadvantage compared with the food sector in other competitor countries. In fact, on a national level, we are often attacked by some organizations which would like to deny us the pos- sibility of promoting the Italian character of our products by limiting the supply of raw materials exclusively to those of Italian origin, but which are notoriously insufficient both in terms of quantity and quality. All these current problems,” concludes the president of AIDEPI, “lead us to believe that we are faced by a real structural change in markets and consumption. What is facing us is no longer a temporary crisis, and this re- quires a significant transformation in the main elements in doing business." Concluding the conference sessions were the presentations by IRI and REF Ricerche on the theme: “Scenari- os and perspectives for food markets”. “In the first four months of this year, AIDEPI markets, including the confectionery sector, have performed better compared to food markets, and confirming this is the slight rise observed in the value of sales in this sector," explains Giampaolo Costantino of IRI. "Unfortunately, pasta did not get off to a good start this year.”

The purity law

The success of pasta is also the result of a rigorous quality policy which aims at defending and safeguard- ing a product that is a bastion of Italian tradition and continues to enjoy success on both a national and international level. In fact, since 1967 in Italy, there exists a law that is the basis of quality standards for Italian pasta and which sets the criteria to be adhered to in manufacturing pasta. Known as the Legge di Purezza [Purity Law (4 July 1967, no. 580, and subsequent amendments, in par- ticular the Presidential Decree dated 9 February 2001, no. 187)], it lays down as the fundamental principle the obligation to manufacture pasta using exclusively durum wheat flour that meets specific parameters in terms of moisture, protein and acidity levels, which must be respected in the production and sale of pasta. 82 | pastaria international 4/2014

The Legge di Purezza also specifically de- fines the names under which the product may be sold on the basis of precise refer- ence parameters. “It represents a sort of regulatory frame- work for pasta production which makes it obligatory to manufacture pasta using exclusively durum wheat and also lists the various types, including special pasta and egg pasta,” comments Riccardo Felicetti, President of Pastai Italiani, the Italian pas- ta-makers’ association. “The only initiative of its kind in the world, of which we are extremely proud, that aims at reinforcing the image of Italian pasta and promoting its production, while imposing the high quality standards that contribute to the Riccardo Felicetti, success of our pasta, including on an in- ternational level. Today, in fact, over 55% president of AIDEPI’s pasta of national pasta production is exported to manufacturers group all the nations of the world. Italy is the no. 1 manufacturer of pasta in the world, with 3.4 million tons worth 4.6 billion euros. At the root of pasta’s success is the simplicity of its recipe together with the extraordinarily modern nature of the product and its ability to reflect the continuous gastronomic changes related to globalization. An integral part of the qualitative consistency of the product is assured by the meticulous selection of grains which also undergo rigorous in-house hygienic/sanitary controls. Added to all this is the wealth of shapes and types of pasta offered which respond to the desire for innovation and, at the same time, rediscovery of the traditions of consumers. Counting both long- and short-cut varieties, there are over 300 different shapes. Italian businesses do not just sell products, but also a prestigious style envied the world over: Italian style,” concludes Felicetti. “It’s the skill, the recipe, the technology and the culture of quality production that have historically characterized the food we produce.” A er long and accurate testing, Molino qb is the highest organic quality devoted Grassi has developed qb, a unique line of to the enhancement of taste. It is the most flours, characterized by the balance between innovative mix of nutritional benefits and the world’s most ancient and innovative original flavors: just what Italian pasta needs grains. to restore its importance on the table. www.qbfarina.it www.molinograssi.it 84 | pastaria international 4/2014

molino grassi 80 years young: parma flours around the world

Press release

Left to right, Massimo, Andrea and Silvio Grassi

Molino Grassi celebrates its 80th anniversary honoring Italian creativity

A big year for this Parma company – its 80th birthday – with three generations that have each taken their turn at the helm of the mill. At the international trade fair Cibus 2014, Molino Grassi presented its latest product, the Grano del Miracolo (Wheat of Miracles) and awarded the best recipes taking part in the contest, “Impastando sImpara: Blogger love QB” (Learning through Kneading: Bloggers love QB). 85 | pastaria international 4/2014

Gianni Grassi

The official presentation of the company’s latest project which, over the next three years, will see the develop- ment of a line of flours made of ancient grains distin- guished by their biodiversity. The first, and leading light at Cibus 2014 was the Grano del Miracolo, a biodiverse soft wheat with a low gluten content, created out of the desire to “safeguard” the local food culture. The Grano del Miracolo flour is the latest addition to the other five products in the QB – Qualità Bio line (organic quality) which includes Montana, Multicereali (multigrain), Kro- nos, Kamut and Einkorn flours in Molino Grassi’s 100% organic line. Impastando sImpara: Blogger love QB, is an initiative created exclusively for food bloggers dedicated to the no. 1 staple of Italian cuisine: flour. Food bloggers who registered by March 17 on the Molino Grassi Nondis- 86 | pastaria international 4/2014

Seated, from left: Teresa De Masi, Alessandra Giovanile, Giulia Antonini, winner of the contest for bloggers. Standing: Valentina Venuti, Molino Grassi contest liaison

olopane blog were given the opportunity to create their favorite recipes using one of the flours from the Molino Grassi QB – Qualità Bio line. The top three entrants for each type of flour re-created their own recipes together with master bakers Ezio Marinato and Cristian Zaghini during an exclusive showcase: Cibus 2014. But the festivities do not end here. Starting in June, Molino Grassi is presenting a project dedicated to flour and its use through comic strips, organized in collaboration with the Scuola del Fumetto in Milan, “Disegnando sIimpara: Comics love QB” (Learning through Drawing: Comics love QB), born of the desire of this Parma company to create a connec- tion bewteen a youthful, accessible and easy-to-understand art form – comics – and the white world of flour. In Febru- ary, Molino Grassi involved more than 30 students in creating a comic strip using the 80 years of the company’s history and its products as an informal fount of inspiration. From the projects created, Molino Grassi selected the ten best, but just one will be chosen to appear on an exclusive recycled cardboard container: “Limited Edition Disegnando sIimpara: Comics love QB” of which only 2014 will be produced. How will the winning comic strip be chosen? On the Molino Grassi Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/mo- linograssi), visitors will be able to view the finalist strips in a "virtual art gallery" and vote for their favorite.

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grand pasta

In Sweden, near Stockholm, a fresh pasta workshop has been active for a few years now and is rapidly becoming established on the market; it was created by the enterprise of a businessman with Italian origins 89 | pastaria international 4/2014

The story we are about to tell is not that of any old pasta factory or company. This story is the tale of the extraordinary career of a man who has managed to transform every problem into an opportunity and who has shown that even when in serious difficulties you should never give in, and never abandon your goals. Tiberio Romano – that's his name – was born in Stockholm to parents who were natives of Brescia and he spent his childhood between California, Venezuela, Italy and Sweden. After a degree in engineering, he started his professional career by "launching" Italian restaurants. His work was essentially to open restaurants, make them become successful and then move on to take up a new challenge, either similar to or more difficult than the last. When he became a father twenty-seven years ago, he realized that work schedules in the catering field were not easy to combine with a family and so he decided to leave the industry and devote himself to a complete- ly different professional area, that of baby products. While he was making this decision, however, something happened that would lead him to fundamentally change direction as a man and an entrepreneur. A very serious car accident confined him to bed for months, but above all it resulted in him permanently losing the use of his legs. Today, Tiberio is wheelchair-bound. "I didn't experience it as a tragedy; I immediately came round to the idea that my way of moving would simply change, but I never gave in” he tells us, showing no emotion. Incredibly, even when still in hospital and with his wife's help, Tiberio transformed his hospital room into an office; it was from that unusual workstation that he set up a shop for baby-buggies and strollers made by a 90 | pastaria international 4/2014

well-known Italian compa- ny with a leading position on the international scene, for which he had become a sole agent for the whole of Sweden a few weeks before. Various things led people to realise Tiberio had not allowed himself be beaten by the whirlwind that had hit him and no- body was in fact surprised when, a short time later, he also opened a second shop in Stockholm. Things of a static nature are definitely not his style, however, and that's why, eight years later, he again responded to the call of a new challenge. In spite of the problems with his legs, he decided to return to his old love, the catering sector, and along with his cousin Valerio Amico, he started up the first pizzeria with a wood-burning oven in Sweden. It became clear that he was unable to resist the lure of his Italian roots when he decided that the 91 | pastaria international 4/2014

pizzeria, really far too difficult because of its exceptional work schedules, could be replaced with a company importing food products from Italy. It goes without saying that this was also a success but, after eight years and some disagreements between the partners, he decided to leave and do a bit of soul-searching again. And just under seven years ago, following a visit to a specialist trade-fair in Milan, he decided to tackle an area that was completely new to him: the world of fresh pasta. But a pasta-factory in Sweden? Of course, nothing could be more appropriate. Even though he knew very little about the sector, Tiberio Romano set up a production workshop that today has about ten employees and is going from one success to another. While the time of his company's launch onto the market was not ideal from the point of view of the progress of the economy, after an initial period of setbacks Tiberio got onto the right track and continued with a positive trend that promises great things for the future. The competition isn't enor- mous but it does exist, because Grand Pasta, contrary to what one might think, is not the only pasta factory in Stockholm. Three other competitors – including an Italian one – struggle to capture the market, but Tiberio only produces for the restaurants in Stockholm and does not sell to the public nor to clients of different types or in different geographical locations. Professionalism, stable prices and the quality of a product that is always the same and always good, are the secrets of the success of this company and the reason why Grand Pasta last year achieved two awards from the local authorities for company performance, a source of great satisfaction from all points of view. “When we started we were the last among our local competitors, but we are gradual- ly overtaking them all.” Tiberio Romano produces only fresh pasta and fresh filled precooked pasta destined 92 | pastaria international 4/2014

for catering, and guarantees exclusively Italian raw materials, both in the flour products and in the fillings. The products are offered in vacuum packs of 3 or 5 kilos. The most popular types are the giant Tortello (50 grams each), the Cannelloni and what they call here the "Delizia”, a sort of timbale with an elongated shape, served in slices. This is a highly successful invention by an Italian chef who used to work in Sweden. The pasta is strictly egg-pasta, and has certainly contributed to giving the pasta factory a strong character and to opening up the doors to a large number of customers. Tiberio goes on to say: "Over the past years we have done some important work not just in selling, but also in educating the consumers, getting them used to a high 93 | pastaria international 4/2014

The Grand Pasta "Delizia" class product that stands out immediately from those of lower quality”. Considering that Tiberio Romano started up the pasta factory on his own and from nothing, without even the support of other family members, he is definitely to be congratulated. However, it is he himself who tones down the praise, despite being aware of his uncommon abilities: "Doing business in Sweden isn't as difficult as in other countries. Here everything comes together to make it easy to work and present oneself to the market properly. The banks are ready to finance businesses and the bureaucracy is reduced to a minimum. Payments - whether from public administration or private individuals - are settled in very few days and the great majority of transactions, even with public bodies, are carried out by Internet or at the most by telephone. It's all de- signed so that everything is done as smoothly as possible" he says. This is surely true, but we aren't about to take back our compliments; he thoroughly deserves them.

Grand Pasta | Skogsängsvägen 54D | 135 55 Tyresö (SWEDEN) | T. +46 08 742 68 00 | F. +46 08 74 8 11 www.grandpasta.se | [email protected] Many shapes to tell it. Only one association to represent it.

11 12.000 1.000.000 ADHERING EMPLOYEES TONS OF PASTA COUNTRIES PRODUCED

4.515.000 OVER 30% TONS OF EXPORTED OF THE WORLDWIDE PRODUCT PASTA PRODUCTION

Since 1960 UN.A.F.P.A represents the Union of Organisations Manufacturers of Pasta products of the European Union. It grants representation and protection of the interests of European Pasta industries. It promotes the continuous improvement of the quality of European pasta, disseminating worldwide, directly or indirectly, the value of pasta, as basic, essential, fundamental nutritious food UN.A.F. P.A. product for a correct diet. It liaises with European institutions and World Trade Organizations that could affect, directly or indirectly, Union des Associations de Fabricants de Pâtes Alimentaires de. l’U.E whether through decisions or consultations, European pasta Union of Organizations of Manufactures of Pasta Products of the E.U. producers.

For further information: Secretariat c/o AIDEPI | Viale del Poggio Fiorito, 61 | 00144 Rome ITALY | Tel: +39 (06) 8091071 | Fax: +39 (06) 8073186 | Email: [email protected] | www.pasta-unafpa.org 95 | pastaria international 4/2014

“two gold stars” to pastificio di amante

The egg tagliatelle from the Pastificio di Amante (Pavia, Italy) were recently awarded two gold stars in the "Superior Taste Award" of the International Taste & Quality Institute (iTQi). The “Superior Taste Award” is the only seal of quality for taste issued by food and drink experts, opinion leaders and Michelin-starred sommeliers and chefs. The members of the iTQi juries, hailing from 15 different countries, are members of the most prestigious European culinary associations, including Maîtres Cuisin- iers of France, Académie Culinaire of France, Academy of Culinary Arts, Euro-Toques, Federazione Italiana Cuochi, Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe, Associaciones des Cocineros of Spain, World Master Chefs Socie- ty, Verband der Köche Deutschlands and the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) for beverag- es. As is the case with the Michelin food guide, iTQi does not organize a competition, preferring to recognize the merits of products. It is a sensory analysis based on the intensity of taste pleasure. During the tests, each product undergoes a blind individual tasting following a strict sensory analysis proce- dure. Tasters are requested specifically to evaluate the products as if they were being consumed in a domes- tic context and to not judge them on the basis of potentially being served in a restaurant. de cecco, billings up in 2013

A leap of 38 million euros. This is the growth in De Cecco billings. From 373 million in 2012, this manufacturing group in Fara San Martino (Italy) rose to 411 million and in 2014 expects to be at a level of around 461 million. With these results, this pasta manufacturer has won third place in the global classification of sales of semolina pasta and first place in the high-quality Premium segment. The group’s EBITDA - including the US PMI and Desemark – is around 45 million euros (with 50 mil forecast in 2014). Net profit is 13 million (15 mil forecast in 2014). The company has over 1,200 employees, 800 of whom are in Italy. The total volume of pasta sold is 231.7 mln kg and the no. 1 selling product in Italy and abroad is spaghetti. 96 | pastaria international 4/2014

primo piatto the school you don’t expect

Primo Piatto, the school for the production of fresh pasta has been in operation for over two years now. The courses have been extremely well-attended. We have collected a few student appreciation quotes in the article below

It immediately proved to be a very exciting experience, also in view of the fact that it was the first of its kind. It was not such an easy challenge to win, but those responsible for launching it two years ago knew exactly what they were about, given their many decades of experience in the sector. The Primo Piatto pasta school – located in Carasco (Genoa, Italy) – is, in fact, the fruit of a brilliant intuition of two veterans in the field, partners in Italgi, a historic company operating in the construction and sale of machinery for the production of fresh pasta. Credit is certainly due to them for having the insight to sense the pressing need to train professional and aspiring pasta makers and for understanding that the needs of those wishing to try their hand in the pasta sector are not only con- nected with the use of the machinery but also with knowledge of the legislation, sales techniques and, above all, with 97 | pastaria international 4/2014

the secrets of the production and storage of pas- ta. Thus the two partners decided to place their expertise and experience at the service of those desiring to make of Italy's most famous national product their raison d'être and their livelihood. “As partners of the company, we acquired our skill through the experience of Italgi and now, even although the school is well underway, we are still working in the sector dedicated to the marketing of equipment for pasta production: but you would be wrong to think that the course is a vehicle for selling machinery. Quite the opposite. Our experience at Italgi has taught us that train- ing and groundwork are primary considerations, also in this trade. We noticed that there was a great hunger for know-how in the fresh pasta sector and so we decided to make a foray into the area, keen to meet the demands of those who, while having little or negligible knowledge of the sector, wish to acquire the tools required Danilo Curotto, teacher at the to enter this world with confidence” states one of Primo Piatto pasta school the school's founding partners. The courses have been held monthly for ap- proximately two years now, and provide all the information required to make a successful entry into the world of fresh pasta. The course lasts 5 days, full time, Monday to Friday, from 8am in the morning until 5pm in the afternoon and is addressed to a wide audience: from those intending to start up a business in the sector, to professionals of gastrono- my and the culinary arts wishing to deepen their knowledge of the subject. The topics dealt with investigate every nook and cranny of the fresh pasta sector, from the choice of flour and other ingredients, to the different methods of production, from storage to cooking, from legislative to economic aspects. The subjects taught in the school are, in fact, many and varied: from the characteristics of a particular type of pasta to mathematics, from chemistry and physics to specific product legislation; from special types such as coloured pasta, to sauces and filled pasta. However, since the setting up of a pasta business is not necessarily limited to production, Primo Piatto also trains its students in subjects such as food costs, shelf life and product display on shop shelves, 98 | pastaria international 4/2014

Nadia Boggiano, teacher at the Primo Piatto pasta school

HACCP, yield and weight losses, as well as in subjects such as communications, financial management and on legal requirements for the launching of a new business. The courses are organised in theoretical modules, demonstrations and practical sessions and provide students with the rudiments for operating in the sector. Of course the various skills acquired need to be refined, but those leaving the school certainly know where to begin in terms of producing and selling pasta in a professional setting. The teachers Danilo Curotto, Nadia Boggiano and Gianpaolo Belloni have many years of experience acquired both in Italy and abroad and this factor gives the course a decidedly international scope. The theoretical and practical lessons are carried out in an environment fitted out with the most modern equipment available on the market. Certainly one of the most interesting aspects of the school is the fact that the classrooms are set up in such a way that every day the students can enjoy eating the results of their own work. The many and varied practical lessons, far from being mere experiments, also provide the main dish to be enjoyed in the lunch break of those taking part in the training course. “One of the things you never forget about this school is the association of the elements learned with the flavours and the aromas. The practical aspect is of fundamental importance. You don’t just learn things sitting at a desk, but through hands-experience in production. The fact of then eating the fruits of your own work during the lunch break is not just a pleasant break; it is, first and foremost, the acid test for what you have produced and it offers immense satisfaction. It is the moment in which you understand whether the work done has produced the desired results. It is the moment in which you can refine your sense of taste and learn to distinguish between what is good and what is not so good”. 99 | pastaria international 4/2014

Roberto Colombo, who has just recently celebrated his 60th birthday, attended the course in September 2013 and, as may be deduced from his words, is enthusiastic about the school. “I might be 60 years old but I said to myself: “im- para l’arte e mettila da parte” (learn a skill and keep it for the future). I like the idea of re-inventing myself. I have done it quite a few times in my life so pasta may well feature in my future”, he says. Colombo is a surveyor to trade, but given the crisis in the construction sector and his innate love of pasta, he was over the moon at the idea of attending a Primo Piatto course, a hundred kilometres from his home. “The course is not intensive in the sense that, in order to become skilled in this sector you have to gain practise and you can't improvise. But the school was extremely valuable in helping me understand the complexity of the product, how to deal with it, how to sell and market it. It is decidedly useful for those who have no idea as to which regulatory provisions are required to set up a business in the food sec- tor and the niggling details and problems that can arise for producers and sellers of food products. Primo Piatto puts you on the right track, both in terms of production and administrative requirements” he adds. Co- lombo has not yet put the elements and experience gained during the course into practice but he has certainly not hung up his… rolling pin! Quite the opposite. The enthusiasm that the school imbued him with remains, so he is still considering the idea of venturing into the fresh pasta sector in the near future. Christopher Washburn and his brother William fully agree with their course mate Colombo. “We became interested in pasta because we wanted to take to the United States the same quality and production methods existing here in Italy. We didn’t have a very clear idea at the outset, but the Primo Piatto school really helped us in the implementation of our project and still now, although the course finished a while back the staff keep giving us support on how to proceed” says Christopher, with great enthusiasm, and he adds: “the teachers – who all have many years of experience in the sector at an international level – were really helpful to us, but we were also very impressed by the organisation of the courses themselves which, offering both theoretical and practical sessions and access to state-of-the-art equipment, allow students to acquire across-the-board knowledge of the pasta sector”. So, all in all, many were well convinced of the validity of this type of training. And of course, the promotion of the courses by the partners through their own contacts combined with word-of-mouth led to an unexpected success, especially among young people. One of the aspects about the school that strikes people most is, in fact, the presence of foreign students. Half of the students are not Italian, but come from the most disparate, and distant, countries. The courses are also held in English, French and Spanish and, on request, in other languages. Since pasta businesses are often set up with partners, the Primo Piatto school also allows the attendance, at reduced rates, of a second person who can sit in on the class. for info www.primo-piatto.it [email protected] INTERNATIONAL PASTA ORGANISATION IPO Founded in Barcelona on World Pasta Day 2005 Formally constituted in Rome on World Pasta Day 2006

MISSION ACTIVITIES MEMBERSHIP

The IPO is a nonprofit association • Organizes research, promotional The International Pasta Organisation now dedicated to: and educational programs and has 25 members (including two European events about pasta, such as World Federations, UNAFPA and SEMOULIERS) • Educating consumers, health professionals, Pasta Day and World Pasta representing 18 countries (Argentina, journalists, government officials and Congress. Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia, others about the merits and benefits of Costa Rica, France, Guatemala, Iran, Italy, pasta, its great taste, its healthfulness and • Collects, organises and distributes nutritional, Mexico, Portugal, Spain, Turkey, United its simple convenience. statistical and other information about pasta. States, Uruguay and Venezuela).

• Increasing consumption of pasta around • With the support of a Scientific Advisory the world. Committee, currently formed by a panel of 25 experts from 17 different countries, educates consumers and others through the media, conferences, research, publications, workshops, and other related activities.

WWW.INTERNATIONALPASTA.ORG

IPO Secretariat General c/o AIDEPI Viale del Poggio Fiorito 61 - 00144 Rome (Associazione delle Industrie Tel. +39 06 8091071 - Fax +39 06 8073186 del Dolce e della Pasta Italiane) [email protected] - www.internationalpasta.org 101 | pastaria international 4/2014 delverde launches "oligominerale pasta"

Ingredients that may not be visible, but which make the difference. In fact, the new Delverde pasta has more calcium and minerals compared with traditional products. And it is for this reason that this Abruzzo- based pasta-maker has coined a specific term for its new product: “pasta oligominerale”. The new product was unveiled in Parma during the “Cibus” agri-food sector trade fair. The pasta, developed by Delverde in collaboration with the Crab regional research center, was certified by the Chemistry Department of the University of L’Aquila. The pasta company uses water from the source of the Verde River, tapped at a depth of 80 meters and used without being stored or chlorinated. Their goal is to offer quality water in a product comprised of two primary ingredients: semolina and water.

the “compasso d'oro” awarded to the pastificio dei campi

The “Compasso d'Oro” goes to the “campotto”. One of the 90 honorable mentions for the prize the Association for Industrial Design awards every three years to those products with the most innovative form and use, went to this new Pasta di Gragnano shape. The campotto is a bronze-extruded pacchero that is narrow in the center, shaped like the number eight. Created by designer Mauro Olivieri, this shape is produced by Pastificio dei Campi in the pasta stronghold of Gragnano (Naples, Italy). Giuseppe Di Martino, the owner of this pasta manufacturer, explained that it is not simply a new shape, but actually four shapes with four different lengths created by adjusting the cutting speed to obtain different results from the same die. INSIEME PER ESSERE PIÙ FORTI!

A.P.PA.FRE. è stata costituita a Milano, il 28 febbraio 2002, da imprenditori artigianali della piccola e media impresa di pasta fresca e gnocchi, per meglio tutelare gli interessi di una categoria di produttori, troppo spesso dimenticati. I nostri associati, sono oggi finalmente riconosciuti dalle istituzioni e dal mercato, come categoria di pastai che rappresentano la vera tipicità e la migliore tradizione culinaria italiana, fiore all’occhiello del MADE IN ITALY, riconosciuta ed apprezzata all’estero. L’associazione, si caratterizza per la capacità di offrire gratuitamente, ai propri associati, qualsiasi consulenza di carattere tecnico e normativo. Per informazioni rivolgersi al segretario Luigi Pelosini, telefonando in sede, o al 347 7219626.

A.P.Pa.Fre. Sede: località Molino Marco, 20 - 28010 Fontaneto d’Agogna (NO) tel. 347 7219626 fax 0322 806654 e-mail: [email protected] www.appafre.it 103 | pastaria international 4/2014

appafre sets its sights on expo 2015

The annual meeting of APPAFRE, the Italian association of small/ medium fresh pasta and gnocchi manufacturers, took place June 20th. Expo 2015 main theme of the meeting

The annual meeting of members of APPAFRE, the Italian association of small/medium fresh pasta and gnocchi manufacturers, was held this past June 20th, as it is every year, in Fontaneto d’Agogna, near Novara (Italy). Following the yearly association dinner, the meeting approved the budget and engaged in lively debate regarding a potential group-promotion initiative for Expo 2015, which proved of general interest to those present. The project, outlined for attendees by association president Fabio Fontaneto, calls for the creation of a sophisti- cated refreshment area in which to promote, sell and sample the products of association pasta-makers, outside the Expo grounds in a strategic area of Milan designed to intersect the flow of visitors to the event. During the meeting, discussion also centered around mushroom and truffle flavorings, creams and sauces in the production of fresh pasta and the use of carotenoids in the manufacturing of egg products and their impact on consumer perception of the quality of egg pasta. As every year, members of the Pastaria staff took part in the meeting.

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