Lon Chaney in The Road to Mandalay archive or courtesy of the artists or courtesy All photos MA archive Maurice Seiderman work- THE INS AND OUTS ing on Orson Welles for changing OF SPECIALTY LENSES Citizen Kane AND TEETH By Chris Koseluk faces

he devil of any character make- TEETH AND LENSES: created a cataract over Abraham’s eyes,” up is in the details, such as the explains Quist. “Without those lenses, teeth and eyes. A BRIEF HISTORY you’d see a young man’s dark, vital eyes. It F. Murray Abraham in Professional VisionCare Associates Amadeus “Whether you are aging just wouldn’t have been effective.” (located in Sherman Oaks, Calif.) has someone or creating a mythi- Early on, Quist got to work with been creating specialty lenses for film cal,t fantasy or horror genre creature, it’s John Chambers, who served as a dental Patterson of Eye Ink FX (American Horror and television since the 1950s. Credits the critical part,” says Spectral Motion, technician in World War II. He applied Story, Game of Thrones) is known for her include Alice in Wonderland, Galaxy Quest Inc. founder and president Mike what he learned to his make-ups. hand-painted lenses. and The Exorcist. Dr. Stacey Sumner, Elizalde. “It’s the finishing touch.” “John was the first person who really Denture experts include G.A. the partner in charge of coordinating Even with simple make-ups, the explained the psychological effect of teeth Enterprises’ Gary Archer (Mrs. Doubtfire, the specialty lens division, observes that eyes and teeth can radically impact a to me,” continues Quist. “How an actor’s the Austin Powers series), Art Sakamoto character lenses go beyond altering a character. What kind of dental work own teeth could make a statement that (LBJ, Unbroken, Tropic Thunder) and performer’s look. “Actors seem to get into might that character have had over the may be inappropriate for the character Fangs FX proprietor Chris Lyons (Star character more easily when they look dif- years? Should the teeth be discolored? being played.” Wars: The Force Awakens, the Harry ferent from their normal appearance,” she Would either differ depending on the Quist cites the teeth Chambers made Potter films). Michael Pack (The Walking says. “Even changing eye color can have a character’s age? for Marlon Brando for Bedtime Story. Dead, Guardians of the Galaxy, Men major impact.” “I like changing faces and some- “When he smiles, it pushes him over the in Black II) creates lenses and teeth. The idea is nothing new. Lon Chaney times you can do it with plumpers edge as this big, toothy, too-good-to- was known to have applied egg whites and dentures,” says make-up designer be-true kind of guy,” Quist says of the to his eyes to create cloudy eyes on some THE DESIGN AND Michèle Burke. “And the eyes are the smarmy con man character. of his characters. Later on, lenses helped first thing you look at. Every character CREATION PROCESS age the characters in 1941’s Citizen Kane. I create, I think of lenses.” The rule of thumb for the design Make-up artist Maurice Seiderman cre- WHO MAKES WHAT It’s hard for Elizalde to think of a process is that there is no rule of thumb. ated and applied the lenses himself. In the Make-up artists used to make both make-up he’s done that doesn’t incor- Spectral Motion starts with illustrations. 1970s, he developed a formula for soft the lens and dental pieces themselves. porate lenses. The only one that comes Concepts always include ideas for teeth contact lenses. These days, licensed technicians spe- to mind is Beast, played by Kelsey and eyes. Make-up artist Gerald Quist notes cialize in creating them. In addition Grammer, in X-Men: The Last Stand. “Then we have discussions with that Dick Smith used lenses in Amadeus to Professional VisionCare Associates, “We used Kelsey’s eyes because they the creative team about specifics,” adds to age the Salieri character, played by F. Los Angeles-based Dr. Jonathan Gording are strikingly blue. It worked well Elizalde. “Sometimes they’ll say it looks Murray Abraham. (True Blood, Buffy the Vampire Slayer) is a with the make-up palette,” continues great. ‘Now let’s see some close-ups of “In the close-up, you can see Dick leading maker of specialty lenses. Cristina those eyes. What will those teeth look Ron Perlman make-up Elizalde. “That’s not always the case. from Hellboy 50 make-up artist number 122 products &tools makeupmag.com 51 Angel of Death from Hellboy II: The Golden Army Angel of Death teeth detail

Stanley Tucci on the set of Jack the Giant Slayer Teeth test for Blade Trinity

like?’ We flesh those areas out and come Youth Without Youth was a personal that many actors will approach him “it’s my responsibility to a very finite version of the initial favorite. The character Dominic Matei, personally. During the filming of The illustration.” played by Tim Roth, is being examined Hunger Games, Stanley Tucci asked Lyons to ensure that the When Quist joined Tropic Thunder by a doctor. The doctor puts his finger to create the teeth for his next film, Jack as make-up department head, direc- in Roth’s mouth and every tooth is loose the Giant Slayer. Jude Law contacted Various teeth appliance itself is tor Ben Stiller had already contacted and wobbly. him directly for Dom Hemingway and designs for Rick Baker to design Robert Downey “It took me about three months to Contagion. Wolves smooth. i’ll fit them Jr.’s character: a white method actor work out how the hell I was going to do “Helena Bonham Carter is famous to make sure they are who uses make-up to transform into an it,” remembers Lyons. “I knew it had to for that,” Lyons says. “She’ll phone me “Next, either wax or clay is used to sculpt African-American. be one appliance, the teeth couldn’t be up and I’ll go see her. We’ll have a cup of the denture and another silicone mold is comfortable, nothing “There were discussions about the separate. They were all linked to sockets tea and a chat. ‘So, what are you working made. The positive is then cleaned out best way to approach the teeth,” says in the appliance.” on, Helen?’ Then production will phone of the sculpt. Usually, a vacuum form is hurts, no rubbing— Quist. “The challenge was making Pack names the trick he devised for me and say, ‘I understand you’re making formed over the positive and it is cast in Robert look credible but not do a black John Ritter for an episode of Buffy the us some teeth. You need to get a purchase the silicone mold of the sculpted denture that can cause ulcers stereotype.” Vampire Slayer as one of his favorite order.’” in dental acrylic. The cast is cleaned up, Sakamoto was brought on to cre- pieces. Burke usually creates the teeth and polished and painted.” or lacerated gums.” ate the teeth. “Some very subtle appli- “It’s a denture that starts inside the John Ritter with trick dentures on lens designs, but not always. On Interview Buffy the Vampire Slayer The importance of a good cast can’t ance work and a beautiful denture … mouth and transitions to the outside. with the Vampire, Stan Winston Studio be underestimated. Lyons always inspects —Chris lyons really changes the whole character of the It holds the actor’s lip and cheek in as had sketch artist Mark “Crash” McCreery the performer’s mouth. He knows dental mouth,” Quist concludes. much as possible, creating the illusion do the vampire concept drawings. “The work can impact the specialty dentures. Sometimes Lyons collaborates closely that the lip and or cheek is missing,” dental tech followed that idea because As he has a thriving practice outside the with the designer. Other times, he’s left explains Pack, who credits Bill Corso they looked great,” she says. industry, Lyons also knows what to look to do his thing. “I’ve been given designs with the concept. “If you just sculpt Even when she’s generating a look, for and how to avoid problems. Maintain, disinfect and sterilize anything on the back of a cigarette packet,” he teeth on the outside of the actor’s mouth, Burke considers it a collaborative event. “It’s my responsibility to ensure that that comes in contact with someone’s sali- says. “The information can be brief or it looks like what it is: something on the “It may come out of my brain and I the appliance itself is smooth,” continues va,” says Pack. “Work in a well-ventilated very precise.” outside.” spearhead things, but in the end, there’s Lyons. “I’ll fit them to make sure they environment. Use gloves and a mask with On The Wolfman, Lyons worked Sumner admits she’s not very cre- no one person who truly designs every- are comfortable, nothing hurts, no rub- organic carbon filters when mixing and from Baker’s detailed designs. With ative, so the more input, the better. thing,” she says. bing—that can cause ulcers or lacerated using acrylics.” frequent collaborators—Neill Gorton, Telling her a character needs to be blind gums.” Lyons also warns about toxicity. “The Peter Robb-King, Nick Dudman and or has brown eyes is not enough. Dentures are made using material SAFETY FIRST liquid in the acrylics is called monomer,” Lois Burwell—he can go on very little “If I can have an understanding of Once designs are solidified, techni- specifically designed for dental use. Pack he says. “It’s the most dangerous mate- information. how the character went blind, it helps cians take over. works with dental acrylic and temporary rial I have in my building. If you don’t “They know how my brain thinks. I tremendously,” she says. “If someone “First, an impression is taken of the splint material for vacuum forming. He cure the acrylic properly, the monomer know how their brains think,” continues needs brown eyes, I usually ask, ‘Light actor’s teeth and a dental stone positive is prefers PPI’s AcrylStains to paint them. can leak out, creating lesions and allergic Lyons. “If we’re talking, say, an alien or or dark brown? Is there a specific color made. This positive is molded in silicone “Always use either sterile or brand- reactions. It can lead to hardening of the a monster, I can do it from just a verbal to match?’” to create a master mold,” explains Pack. new trays, products and equipment. description.” Lyons has built such a reputation

52 make-up artist number 122 products &tools makeupmag.com 53 Arnold Schwarzenegger as Mr. Merlin make-up by Freeze in Batman & Robin Mark Coulier

quist shares old-school secret for staining teeth

t’s a situation most make-up artists have encountered at least once in their careers. The character calls for aged, dull teeth and arteries. Evil stuff.” the actor set to play the part shows up with a imouth so sparkly, it could blind you if the sun hit The first step for “i have witnessed on Sumner is deciding what it just right. type of lenses are needed. If several occasions Sure, you can try to solve the problem with the design is limited to the make-up, but sometimes it comes off as just too eye’s colored portion, cor- where ill-fitting lenses much and doesn’t look right. When this hap- neal will do. If it incorpo- pens, make-up artist Gerald Quist likes to use a rates the entire eye, scleral resulted in either a trick he learned many years ago from cinematog- is needed. rapher Gordon Willis. With any specialty lens, corneal abrasion and/or Along with shooting features for the likes of Woody Allen and Francis Ford Coppola, Willis eye exams are essential. “I Banshee make-up by Spectral know many people have infection because there Motion for The Quest also directed and shot commercial spots. One the impression that contact of Quist’s first gigs was working with Willis on a lenses are one-size-fits-all. was never a fitting.” Holiday Inn ad in the late ’80s. That’s completely false,” she —dr. stacey sumner important to have somebody who “We had this guy come in who looked like continues. “Everyone’s eye understands not only how to take care “you want your George Hamilton—an impossible suntan and curvature is slightly differ- at that point. At the end of the day, I of somebody’s eyes, but also how to these amazing, bright teeth,” remembers Quist. ent. A poor fitting lens not only creates would go back and take them out.” take care of the hand-painted lenses procedures to be “They were just so pearly and shiny. The guy discomfort, but can potentially damage Some stars require special treatment. that require special treatment and opens his mouth and you just couldn’t help it, the eye. I have witnessed on several occa- Lyons created a solid gold denture for care. The techs disinfect the lenses, beyond reproach.” your eyes went right to his teeth.” sions where ill-fitting lenses resulted in a Doberman for the Kanye West video store them in the proper liquid and After Willis saw this, he asked Quist if he either a corneal abrasion and/or infection “Black Skinhead.” have them ready for the next day.” —mike elizalde had made up the actor to look that way. When because there was never a fitting.” “The Doberman was not very happy Sumner likes to have a conversa- Quist answered no, Willis instructed him to take These days, soft lenses are mostly with what he had in his mouth, but luck- tion with on-set technicians. “I rely or her character. Elizalde says he usu- the performer to craft services and have him used. They are easy to adjust to and com- ily, he was properly trained for the film Johnny Depp on them to tell me if the lenses are ally handles the task himself. “They drink a cup of strong black coffee. fortable to wear. They can be kept in for industry,” remembers Lyons. “I stuck my in Alice in comfortable or they’re irritating,” she are so perfectly fitted to the actor’s “He was correct. It worked,” continues Quist. Wonderland longer periods over the course of a shoot- hand in his mouth to do the cast, made says. “I want to know those things so teeth that you just push them into “It backed down his million-dollar teeth. That ing day. Mirrored eyeballs, most famously them and fixed them when needed.” I can fix them.” the back of the mouth and with their became part of my job—to keep cups of black worn by Yul Brynner in Westworld, are the Sumner has created canine lenses for Teeth are usually handled by a tongue or finger, the actor pops it into coffee around before he shot.” only effect where Sumner believes hard several films. The Wonder Boys needed a BEST PRACTICES ON SET make-up artist. On Tropic Thunder, position. Removing it is the same,” It’s a trick that Quist still uses to this day. lenses should be used. dog to appear as if it were going blind. Usually, after their work is delivered, Downey’s personal, John Blake, was he says. While shooting A Good Day to Die Hard, Quist Sumner created mirrored lenses Marley & Me used several dogs to play Sumner and Lyons are done. Occasionally, in charge of his teeth. On the other Having sterile rubber gloves on needed to age actor Sebastian Koch. “He’s a for Arnold Schwarzenegger when he the title character. She made sure all their they’ll go on set if it’s a bigger job. Lyons hand, How the Grinch Stole Christmas hand is crucial. “I take special pride fairly young man and they wanted him to look played Mr. Freeze in Batman & Robin. eye colors matched. One of the dogs in recalls fitting 60 goblins in 20 minutes had so many appliances, a team was in being a little militant about that,” several years older than he really was,” explains It led to one of her favorite on-the-job Beverly Hills Chihuahua was sun sensitive. for one of the Harry Potter films. Sumner assigned to ensure the characters had continues Elizalde. “You want your Quist. “Part of the problem is that Sebastian has experiences. Sumner set her up with tinted lenses. traveled to New Zealand to prep the the proper bucktoothed grins. “There procedures to be beyond reproach. those movie star teeth.” “You can’t go from not wearing lenses “Dogs are great because they don’t natives for Peter Jackson’s remake of King were two or three people going around Not that I’m afraid of cooties. I’m So Quist sent the actor on a coffee break. to wearing hard lenses for a 10-hour complain,” she says. “The trainers do it. Kong. with trays distributing teeth at the top afraid of passing my own cooties onto “In that case, we were using espresso,” he says. shooting day. So he wanted to get used We teach them how to hold the eye and But more often than not, these tasks of the day,” says Quist. “Very system- somebody else.” “He’d take it all in one gulp, swish it around in to them before shooting started,” she get the lenses in and out so that the dogs fall to others. There should always be a atic, very disciplined.” Elizalde cleans the dentures daily, his mouth and swallow it. It would dull his teeth remembers. “Every day for about a week, aren’t traumatized.” licensed lens technician on set. For bigger films with lots of den- using fluorescent disinfectant tablets. down just enough.” —Chris Koseluk I drove to his house and put his lenses in “Let’s face it: We’re make-up artists, tures, Burke has each make-up artist He then sets them under an ultraviolet in the morning: they were just clear ones not certified opticians,” says Elizalde. “It’s handle and apply the dentures for his light for 20 to 30 minutes. Sometimes For more on tooth stains, see page 110. 54 make-up artist number 122 products &tools makeupmag.com 55 Mel B (aka Scary Spice) in Fangs FX teeth for The Fangs FX teeth for LD 50: Sarah Jane Adventures Lethal Dose (make-up by (with Millennium FX) Matthew Smith) “never let your actor wrap up the denture in a tissue. i guarantee it will get thrown away 100 percent of the time!­” Soft teeth for The Wolfman —michael pack he’ll scrub them with a little diluted alcohol Prince Nuada for a really clean, disinfected surface. But Silverlance from since he’s not using denture adhesive, disin- Hellboy II: The fectant products take care of bacteria. Golden Army But despite the best-laid plans, stuff hap- pens. On The Clan of the Cave Bear, a couple of actors decided to snack on peanut butter sandwiches with their denture pieces in. “They approached me and said, ‘Oh, could you clean these, they are all gunked up,’” remembers Burke. “I was ready to throw up.” “Never let your actor wrap up the denture in a tissue,” adds Pack. “I guarantee it will get thrown away 100 percent of the time!” Christopher Lloyd is notorious for put- ting his teeth in his pocket after the director yells, “Cut.” “On more than one occasion, they ended up broken,” says Lyons. In general, dentures are brittle and can crack. Sometimes they get dropped. Soft lenses are fairly durable, but they can rip. Fangs FX teeth for The Teeth for Neanderthal And that’s why it’s a good idea to create mul- Bastard Executioner (with (make-up by David tiple pairs of each. Millennium FX) White) “That’s just standard operating procedure when you’re on location,” agrees Elizalde. “We typically have three or four sets of both lenses and dentures.” Spares are rarely needed. Like a pair of old shoes, the performer gets used to slipping on the familiar piece. “They’re assuming their character and don’t want to change it out. Even if the duplicate might feel better,” says Quist. “It’s really not uncommon to get a whole show out of one piece.” Quist spent more than five years trans- forming Michael Dorn into Worf for Star Trek: The Next Generation. He used the same Brad Pitt’s teeth from piece the entire time. Interview with the Vampire “It was a beautiful denture that Michael Westmore made himself. He made all the Tom Cruise’s teeth from Interview with the Vampire dentures,” says Quist. “He had a system he learned from John Chambers. What he made was very durable. I believe it had to be repaired once or twice. Dorn wore that same denture for years.” MA

Michael Rooker as Yondu in Guardians of the Galaxy 56 make-up artist number 122 products &tools makeupmag.com 57