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Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
March 2020 —Mountain States Collector Now Open
Like us and Devoted to Antiques, follow us Collectibles, on Furniture, Art, Design Facebook and History. MArCh 2020 EStAbLIShED In 1972 Volume 48, number 3 St. Patrick’s Day Colorado Antique Gallery History and Traditions Celebrates 28 Years With Giant Sale The Colorado Antique Abound Gallery is celebrating its 28th Anniversary in 2020 with a By Bobbie Sweeney month-long sale that runs through the whole month of St. Patrick's Day—a great day for the March. Proudly located in the Irish in America. It is not necessary that City of Littleton at 5501 S. you come from Ireland or that you are Broadway since 1992. With born of Irish parents—everybody 285 vendors located under one suddenly becomes part of the fun- 52,000 square foot roof there loving, hard-drinking Irish culture on are hundreds of thousands of this festive day. Whatever your favorite color hap - fabulous finds on sale during pens to be, it changes to green on St. the month of March. The Patrick's Day. Having an Irish name helps, but Colorado Antique is home to Germans, Italians, Greeks, Chinese and all the rest can have just as many long-time dealers who much fun drinking green beer, eating green food, and wearing green have been in business at the on this special day of the year. Gallery since 1992. Their staff Most cities in the United States have a parade on this day. Busi - is second to none and has a extensive knowledge the art glass, art work and collectibles are always in stock nessmen, churches, schools—everyone enters into the fun of mak - antique industry. -
Art and Life on the Upper M Is Sis Sippi 1890-1915
Minnesota 1900 Art and Life on the Upper M is sis sippi 1890-1915 MICHAEL CONFORTI, EDITOR With essays by Marcia G. Anderson, Michael Conforti and Jennifer Komar, Mark Hammons, Alan K. Lathrop, Louise Lincoln and Paulette Fairbanks Molin, and Thomas O'Sullivan ~ .DElAWARE Newark: University of Delaware Press London and Toronto: Associated University Presses in association with The Minneapolis Institute of Arts Appendixes APPENDIX I: BIOGRAPHIES OF PROMINENT MEMBERS OF THE HANDICRAFT GUILD OF MINNEAPOLIS . M ANY TALENTED WOMEN WERE E CAGED IN THE AP Suggestions, was published for the schools' drawing depart plied arts during this period only to abandon them to devote ments and gave monthly work outlines for teachers in all all their energies to husbands and families. So much of the grades. She identified useful instructional sources for teach work of consequence was carried out by professional ers. Ernest Batchelder's book, Design in Theory and Prac women. The stories below offer some hint of the commit tice, was always among them. Roberts also published a ment of these women and the inAuence they had both in series of booklets, tools really, called Picture Studies. Each Minnesota and nationally. focused on an individual artist (e.g., Murillo, Velasquez, and Rembrandt) with the purpose of preparing children for (MARY) EMMA ROBERTS beginning studies in painting as an art form. Emma Roberts, the founder of the Handicraft Guild, In 1913, Roberts moved into her new arts and crafts supervised drawing and art appreciation in the Minneapolis inAuenced home, designed and built by celebrated local public schools for twenty-four years. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
Proquest Dissertations
Charles Frederick Ulrich in New York, 1882 to 1884 Item Type text; Thesis-Reproduction (electronic) Authors Meislin, Andrea Popowich, 1960- Publisher The University of Arizona. Rights Copyright © is held by the author. Digital access to this material is made possible by the University Libraries, University of Arizona. Further transmission, reproduction or presentation (such as public display or performance) of protected items is prohibited except with permission of the author. Download date 04/10/2021 02:56:37 Link to Item http://hdl.handle.net/10150/291430 INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly finm the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter &ce, wfafle others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproductiDii is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., nu^s, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one ecposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. -
Fashion in Paris; the Various Phases of Feminine Taste and Aesthetics from 1797 to 1897
EX LIBRIS Cooper Union Museum for the Arts of Decoration GIVEN BY The Hospital Book and News Socle IN 1900 FASHION IN PARIS THE VARIOUS PHASES OF FEMININE TASTE AND ESTHETICS FROM 1797 TO 1897=^ By OCTAVE UZANNE ^ from the French by LADY MARY LOYD ^ WITH ONE HUNDRED HAND- COLOURED PLATES fc? TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS BY FRANCOIS COURBOIN LONDON : WILLIAM HEINEMANN NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS MDCCCXCVIII (pr V All rights reserved CHAP. PAGE I. The Close of the Eighteenth Century ... i Licentiousness of Dress and Habits under the Directory of the Nineteenth II. The Dawn Century . 23 The Fair Sex in the Tear VIII First Empire III. Under the ...... +5 Feminine Splendour in Court and City IV. Dress, Drawing - rooms, and Society under the Restoration ....... 65 1815-1825 V. The Fair Parisian in 1830 ..... 85 Manners, Customs, and Refme?nent of the Belles of the Romantic Period VI. Fashion and Fashion's Votaries, from 1840 to 1850 103 VII. Fashion's Panorama in 1850 . 115 The Tapageuses and the Myst'erieuses in under VIII. Life Paris the Second Empire . .127 Leaders of the Gay World, and Cocodettes IX. The Fair Sex and Fashions in General from 1870 till 1880 ....... 147 X. The Parisian, as She is . .165 Her Psychology, Her Tastes, Her Dress MM. kmmi X<3 INTRODUCTION he compilation of a complete bibliography, even the most concise, of the works devoted to the subject of Costume, T and to the incessant changes of Fashion at every period, and in every country, in the world, would be a considerable undertaking—a work worthy of such learning as dwelt in the monasteries of the sixteenth century. -
The History of Fashion in France, Or, the Dress of Women from the Gallo
r\ U Ly c r ^ -=4^-^ r J^^^ y^ ^^ ^->^ THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. 3-\MML THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR. THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME, FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL. nv Mrs. CASHEL HOEY and Mr. JOHN LILLIE. S C R I R N E R A N IJ \V K L I' O k 1 J. I»»2. LONDON : PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. John's square. —— CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets —Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies — Paris the temple of fashion —The provinces ^Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown— The causes of fashion —A saying of Mme. de Girardin's —A remark of Mrs. TroUope's — The dress of actresses— Earliest theories of fashion— The Gyna;ceum of Amman First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes "—Lamesangere Other pubhcations—An anecdote concerning dolls— Plan of the History of Fashion in France CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors"and "Palla" — Cleanliness of the GaUic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The " stola "— Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—^Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crj'stal ball—Influence of the barbarians . -13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter The Merovingians —Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers — Various articles of dress— The "suint" —Young girls dress their hair without omamenis— St. -
Moscow and St Petersburg
Creating a ‘Public’ in St Petersburg, 1703-1761 Paul Keenan School of Slavonic and East European Studies, UCL Ph.D. History 1 UMI Number: U592953 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Dissertation Publishing UMI U592953 Published by ProQuest LLC 2013. Copyright in the Dissertation held by the Author. Microform Edition © ProQuest LLC. All rights reserved. This work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest LLC 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 Abstract The thesis deals with the creation of a ‘public’ in St Petersburg during the first half of the eighteenth century. The term ‘public’ has generated a considerable historiography dealing with its implications for the field of eighteenth-century studies, which are discussed in the introduction along with the contemporary definitions of the word. In eighteenth-century Russia, the term ‘public’ usually carried the meaning of ‘audience’, typically in reference to the theatre and other spectacles. The definition of this and other similar terms provides an important framework through which to analyse the various elements of this phenomenon. This analysis has centred on the city of St Petersburg in this period for several reasons. Firstly, it was the seat of both the Russian government and the Court around a decade after its foundation and Peter I ensured its rapid population. -
The History of Fashion in France;
:J**T i-HOl RARE BOOK COLLECTION fM THE LIBRARIES The University of Georgia ~i?<j>tf . - THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. P- „,-.</<'•', I THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR, THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUST] X CH.\LL.\MEI. EY MRS. CASHEL HOEY AND MR. JOHN LILLIE. jgclu |9orh : S C R T J5 V £ K A N LJ V V, L V • ) 1< U 1882. w\&r T2SO CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets—Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies— Paris the temple of fashion—The provinces—Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown—The causes of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin's—A remark of Mrs. Trollope's— The dress of actresses—Earliest theories of fashion—The Gynseceum of Amman— First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes"—Lamesangere— Other publications—An anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of t"sJ,oriBOK Fashion in France ............ PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN©S SQUARE. CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors" and "Palla" —Cleanliness of the Gallic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles ; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The'' stola "—Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women— Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal ball—Influence of the barbarians CHAPTER II. -
Germany from the Earliest Period Vol. 4
Germany from the Earliest Period Vol. 4 Wolfgang Menzel, Trans. Mrs. George Horrocks The Project Gutenberg EBook of Germany from the Earliest Period Vol. 4 by Wolfgang Menzel, Trans. Mrs. George Horrocks Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the header without written permission. Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is important information about your specific rights and restrictions in how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. **Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** **eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** *****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** Title: Germany from the Earliest Period Vol. 4 Author: Wolfgang Menzel, Trans. Mrs. George Horrocks Release Date: July, 2005 [EBook #8401] [Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] [This file was first posted on July 7, 2003] Edition: 10 Language: English Character set encoding: ASCII *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GERMAN HISTORY, V4 *** Produced by Charles Franks, David King and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team Livros Grátis http://www.livrosgratis.com.br Milhares de livros grátis para download. GERMANY FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD BY WOLFGANG MENZEL TRANSLATED FROM THE FOURTH GERMAN EDITION By MRS. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 2: Early Cultures Across2 the Globe SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward.