VALENTINO SPA TAPS NEW CEO/2 KATE MOSS FRAGRANCE?/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • December 15, 2006 • $2.00 Beauty Snow White Jean Paul Gaultier clearly hopes white will be all right. The avant-garde designer is aiming to create a new bestseller with his men’s fragrance, Fleur du Male, which will launch in March in an all-white bottle. The fragrance will fi rst be sold in the designer’s boutiques, and in April will roll out to broader distribution. For more, see page 4.

Pelosi’s Drive for Ports: Industry Foresees Chaos In 100% Screening Plan By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — The Democrats and Nancy Pelosi have not even taken control of the House yet and already they’ve upset retailers and apparel importers. In outlining her party’s agenda for its first 100 hours in office, House Speaker-elect Pelosi said she would bring to a vote early legislation requiring 100 percent screening of all cargo containers at foreign ports. This measure is aimed at stepping up the U.S. fight against terrorism. This prompted an immediate outcry from retailers and apparel vendors that imported $89.2 billion worth of See Pelosi, Page 12 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Moss Said in Scent Deal WWDFRIDAY SOON IT MIGHT BE EAU DE KATE. Beauty Kate Moss is said to have signed a fragrance licensing deal with Coty Inc., the beauty fi rm that already boasts a star-studded roster of celebrity fragrance brands. GENERAL Details of the Moss fragrance could not be learned, nor could Incoming House Speaker Nancy Pelosi spurred industry anger, saying the timing of any introduction. A Coty spokeswoman declined to 1 she will push a bill requiring full screening of cargo containers. comment. Stefano Sassi, most recently ceo of Marzotto, has been named ceo of But given Moss’ combination of fame and notoriety, the fragrance 2 sister fi rm Valentino Fashion Group and the fashion house Valentino. will probably continue Coty’s string of celebrity hits, which include scents for Gwen Stefani, Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker and The nation’s drugstores are in the midst of a major repositioning that David and Victoria Beckham. And a deal with the model makes sense 7 could have a long-term impact on the beauty department. for Coty since she already is the face of the company’s makeup brand With two weekends left before Christmas, retailers are facing unusually Rimmel. 12 warmer weather and consumers who are waiting for the big sale. Coty takes credit for reviving the celebrity fragrance model in recent years, which has helped propel it to become a $2.9 billion beauty company. EYE Costumed revelers at Marc Jacobs’ annual holiday bash, which had a 9 Venetian carnival theme this year, clearly took the theme to heart. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Valentino Fashion Group Names CEO [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- By Amanda Kaiser this year and in 2007. be talking to the press about it. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. In other news, the house of Favrin said he had spent VOLUME 192, NO. 126. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three MILAN — Valentino Fashion Valentino is busy preparing for the past fi ve months interview- additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. Group SpA has tapped an inside a 45th anniversary show and cel- ing potential ceo candidates, PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: man as its new chief executive ebration in Rome — not Paris, but Sassi won him over. Favrin S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David officer. as originally planned. The date praised Sassi’s reorganization Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- Valentino’s board has named is not yet fi nal, but it is likely to of Marzotto’s struggling tex- dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Stefano Sassi, most recently be in early July. The festivities tile business. He also empha- Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. chief executive of textile group have prompted rampant specu- sized the importance of Sassi’s 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable and sister company Marzotto lation that 74-year-old Valentino fashion experience. Sassi was Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS SpA, as ceo of both Valentino Garavani is preparing to retire. chief operating offi cer at Group CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Fashion Group and its subsid- On Thursday, Marzotto reiter- Cerruti for five years before DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four iary fashion house Valentino ated his statement that Garavani joining Marzotto. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. SpA. He effectively replaces hasn’t given any indication he Sassi was tight-lipped at Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Michele Norsa, although the plans to step down. He said re- the press conference about his First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, two men’s titles are not identi- lations with the designer were plans for Valentino, explaining and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions cal. Norsa resigned in July and “excellent” and that Valentino he wants to study the company and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make subsequently joined Salvatore was always strengthening its de- and its employees before outlin- our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Ferragamo Italia SpA as ceo. sign team. ing strategic objectives. interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Unlike Norsa, Sassi also will “I have ideas in my head and “I don’t think someone can us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. be head of Valentino FG, the I’ll communicate them when face a [new] challenge like this WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- 1.73 billion euro ($2.29 billion) the time is right,” Marzotto said if you don’t already have a few ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, company that owns Valentino when pressed to articulate the ideas in your head, but outlin- OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED SpA, a majority stake in Hugo most likely post-Garavani sce- ing the way forward and strate- Boss AG and men’s wear brand nario for the brand. gies requires you to do very de- Lebole, and holds licens- There isn’t just speculation tailed analysis and research,” ing deals for M Missoni and chez Valentino on the design Sassi said. Marlboro Classics. Norsa was front. There have been recur- Sassi is considered to be an unhappy with his lower-ranking ring rumors and press reports intelligent and strategic execu- Quote of the Week titles at Valentino, one of the suggesting the company is on tive with a strong understand- reasons he decided to leave, ac- the block. Favrin addressed the ing of the global market. One cording to a well-placed source. issue at the press conference, but source likened him to Robert The customer’s mind is still on Valentino FG chairman his cryptic language managed to Polet, president and ceo of “ Antonio Favrin held the ceo title raise even more questions about Gucci Group, who came from personal acquisition as opposed to at the multibrand company until the future of the company. food giant Unilever. While Polet now. Favrin will retain his post When asked whether the may not have joined Gucci with gift-giving, although the strength in as chairman. Matteo Marzotto company was for sale, Favrin a luxury goods merchandising will keep his new position as gave a lengthy response and said background, he has demon- the fragrance business would indicate chairman of Valentino SpA. it was up to each shareholder to strated an acumen for handling “Having worked with Sassi decide whether or not to sell his larger business issues. otherwise. for fi ve years, I know about his or her shares. Favrin said he On Thursday, Valentino FG —’’ Ron Klein, chairman and ceo, Macy’s East personality and I know about plans to keep his 19.8 percent also promoted its chief fi nancial the things he has done, which stake in the company and ad- offi cer Luca Vianello to chief I think are fundamental for the vised others to hold on to theirs operating officer. Favrin said success of a manager and the since Valentino FG’s value is Vianello would be responsible success of Valentino,” Favrin destined to rise. for managing staff and oversee- said at a press conference here, The executive also said that ing the development of the M In Brief adding that Valentino FG was on even if he had some big opera- Missoni, Lebole and Marlboro track to post “excellent” results tion up his sleeve, he wouldn’t Classics brands. ● POLO PROMOTION: Polo Ralph Lauren has named Garine Zerounian senior director, international public relations, ef- fective Jan.1. Zerounian joined the company in December 2004 as director of women’s public relations and was promoted to senior director of women’s public relations. In the new post, Vera Wang Exiting Fine Jewelry? Zerounian will oversee communications for Ralph Lauren’s ap- parel bands in Latin America, Asia and Australia, working with NEW YORK — Vera Wang is set to abandon the terials, such as shagreen and titanium, into her Polo’s global marketing and fashion teams on events and celeb- fine jewelry business even as gold, diamond and pieces. The jewelry, which included engagement rity dressing. She reports to Wendy Smith, senior vice president precious stone jewelry seem to be hot tickets this rings, Art Deco-inspired hanging earrings and of corporate communications. holiday season, industry sources said. cuff bracelets done in micro pavé, initially bowed Next month, Wang plans to end a partnership in Bergdorf Goodman and select Neiman Marcus ● FORTUNOFF NAMES GERAGHTY: Fortunoff, the 84-year-old with Rosy Blue Fine, a subsidiary of the $1 billion stores. The line has been in and out of several re- Uniondale, N.Y., jewelry retailer, has appointed Michael Geraghty Antwerp, Belgium-based diamond company Rosy tailers, including select Saks Fifth Avenue doors, chief fi nancial and administrative offi cer. Geraghty most recently Blue Inc., which produced the designer’s fi ne jew- Bailey, Banks & Biddle and London Jewelers. was chairman of Filene’s/Kaufman’s prior to the Federated ac- elry collection, the sources said. Some experts said that, while the editorially quisition of May Department Stores Co. in 2005. He replaces Len Wang, one of the fi rst American ready-to-wear acclaimed jewelry was made and designed well, Tabs, who has retired. In September, Fortunoff unveiled plans to designers to jump into the fi ne jewelry world, it was too expensive and inaccessible. Prices open as many as fi ve more doors on the East Coast by 2008 and launched her collection in 2003, after houses like range from about $300 to $200,000. In the spring, launched an ad campaign featuring model Petra Nemcova. In Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton, which have thriving the fi rm introduced a sterling silver jewelry November 2004, Fortunoff agreed to a recapitalization transac- fi ne jewelry businesses. She declined to comment. line for bridesmaids, which started at a lower tion with two equity fi rms, Trimaran Capital Partners and Kier Wang was said to be focused on the creative price point. Group. Fortunoff ’s has annual sales of about $500 million. direction of the jewelry, introducing unlikely ma- — Sophia Chabbott

4 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 The Beauty Report WWD.COM Space NK Eyes America Jean Paul Gaultier icky Kinnaird, the queen of British Nniche retailing, is betting that the A rendering of the SoHo space. trademark specialty apothecary approach Goes All White of her Space NK beauty boutiques will play well in the much larger, more bruising U.S. PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier keeps gender-bending arena. and revisiting past icons — most recently with his new Kinnaird plans on opening the fi rst of fragrance, called Fleur du Male, due out this spring. fi ve Space NK beauty stores at 99 Greene The scent breaks conventional codes of men’s Street in April in New York’s SoHo neigh- scent. Most radical is its juice, containing notes of borhood. The fi rst unit, containing a total white, orange blossom fl owers instead of geranium of 3,000 square feet, will serve as the com- and lavender, staples in a traditional fougère men’s pany’s U.S. fl agship. Slightly less than 2,000 fragrance. Second, Fleur du Male’s bottle is com- square feet of the fl oor area will be dedi- pletely white — a rarity for the fragrance industry, cated to selling, with the remainder ear- particularly in a marketplace awash with black fra- marked for offi ces and administration. The grance fl acons for men. American operation is being spearheaded Created with Gaultier’s beauty-license holder by Shelly Kohan, vice president of U.S. Beauté Prestige International, Fleur du Male comes development, and Kinnaird is expected to more than a decade after the 1995 launch of perenni- make monthly visits. The store will include al bestseller Le Male (a fougère) and less than a year treatment rooms to give facials following Gaultier to the Power of Two scent (with under the Eve Lom banner, Space notes of ambergris, musk and vanilla) for men and NK’s spa brand. The facilities also women. Gaultier’s Tout Beau Tout Propre makeup will be available for use by other line for men was introduced in fall 2003. treatment vendors. Space NK also “Jean Paul fi rmly believed that he should say will launch an e-commerce Web The Space NK approach involves providing an something new about men,” said Remy Gomez, presi- site in the same period. intimate boutique ambiance with a highly special- dent of BPI. Kinnaird said earlier this week ized, tightly edited assortment aimed at problem “Over the past 12 years, many barriers have been that the other four stores will be solving. The key is customer service. Kinnaird lifted for men,” continued Lea Vignal-Kenedi, head in the tristate area, including a stresses that all the sales staff is trained with of the fragrance division second New York store, as part of six weeks of schooling across all the brands. In for Jean Paul Gaultier, re- her cluster strategy that hinges on the U.K., a typical store will have fi ve to 18 sales ferring to men’s ability to locating stores in neighborhoods people on the selling fl oor at any time, Kinnaird more easily express them- of affl uent areas. “Our policy is in noted. The Greene Street store not only will have selves through fashion fi nding the right stores” with the Nicky Kinnaird treatment areas, but there will be a room down- and beauty, for instance.

neighborhood to match, she noted. ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY stairs where lecturers and makeup artists can “He wanted to speak of For the second New York store, she give talks on trends and seasonal looks. In terms this blooming of today’s is looking at the Upper East Side, the Upper West Side of diversifi cation, Space NK is in the process of opening masculinity, of joie de and the East Village. a new fl agship with a spa in the Knightsbridge section of vivre, of happiness.” Judging from her track record in the U.K., Kinnaird London at 40 Hans Crescent. The fi rst spa location was Although company has ambitions to one day go coastal. She opened her opened in Notting Hill in 1999. Space NK also opened a executives would not fi rst store in London in 1993 as a 250-square-foot fashion men’s store in London’s Soho last year. discuss sales projec- boutique, including apparel, accessories and a small When asked how Space NK could differentiate it- tions, industry sources apothecary. The 250-square-foot beginning gradually self from Sephora in the U.S. market, Kinnaird pointed said they expected Fleur grew to 1,000, completely devoted to beauty, but it took out that her stores are much smaller, with some units du Male would generate two-and-a-half years to exhaust the obvious possibilities measuring only 500 square feet, and therefore more $26 million at wholesale The Fleur du Male ad. in London with 16 to 17 stores before the chain spread intimate. The size of an average Sephora has been in its fi rst 12 months. to the rest of the country. Space NK now has 46 units. quoted at 4,500 square feet. Its “revisited fern accord,” with notes of peti- While the company does not break out sales fi gures, in- Small spaces also dictate a fi nely crafted editing grain leaf and coumarin, was created by Takasago’s dustry sources estimate that the chain does more than job. Part of the success in the U.K. stemmed from Francis Kurkdjian, also Le Male’s perfumer. For $75 million annually in sales. With an average store merchandising niche American brands, so Kinnaird Fleur du Male, he used a healthy dose of orange measuring about 1,000 square feet, the sales productiv- intends to present the U.S. with some exclusive fl ower notes, generally found in women’s fragrances ity computes to more than $1,500 a square foot. European names, such as Hinles & Baumes, a morning and in colognes. BPI claims it to be the fi rst time or- Kinnaird declined to estimate the size of the U.S. face cream; Sheerin Okho, described as a combination ange fl ower has been used in a men’s scent. investment, implying that the fi rst fi ve stores would of cosmetological performance and natural ingredi- “There is a new dimension to the Jean Paul be bankrolled through existing cash fl ow. Manzanita ents along the lines of skin care by Dr. Sebagh and Dr. Gaultier man,” said Kurkdjian. Capital has been a partner since 2003. Hauschka, and Pro-Ferm, an antiaging cream, based “Orange fl ower is an ingredient that sticks in the on research in the Bio-Technology Institute memory more easily than most other top notes avail- of the Berlin Technical University, that is able,” continued Gomez, who explained the white designed to work with the body’s immune fl owers are historically used in crowns for French system to repair cellular damage. brides, for instance. Kinnaird said the average Space NK Added Kurkdjian, orange fl ower scent also evokes store carries 50 to 60 brands, with more than memories of childhood and innocence. “It is a fl ower 40 percent of sales generated by skin care Jean Paul adores,” he said. (including Eve Lom), 30 percent by color So, too, was Gaultier intent on giving a nod to Le cosmetics, 10 percent by hair and fragrance Male’s iconic bottle, which comes in the form of a and the remaining 20 percent by the Space bust. However, the Fleur du Male fl acon is of white NK house brand. porcelain. “Jean Paul wanted the bust to be the em- Kinnaird noted that, while a Sephora blem of his statement,” explained Gomez. store may have 28 color brands, Space NK Cultural references abound in the new proj- will have fi ve or six. “The customers appre- ect. Take the scent’s name, which is a word play ciate the cherry-picking we do for them,” on “La Fleur du Mal,” a book of poetry by Charles she observed. Baudelaire. Then there is the advertising visual. The initial reaction seems welcoming. Gaultier adores movies, explained Vignal-Kenedi. William Lauder, chief executive offi cer of She said that for Fleur du Male, he had in his mind the Estée Lauder Cos., pointed out it will the image from the fi lm “American Beauty,” in which be more challenging to open enough stores actress Mena Suvari soaks in a bath full of roses. to make a footprint in the U.S. than it was So, he signed photographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino in the U.K. But, he added, “they are a very to shoot model Andres Valencoso in a milky bath imaginative retailer and I think there is al- chockablock with white fl owers. Print visuals will ways room in the marketplace for imagina- appear as single pages. “He wanted to show a happy tive retailers.” man, like a pasha, something as simple, with a cer- Sylvie Chantecaille praised Kinnaird tain pleasure,” she said. Sampling will include for her foresight in providing a personal, Sophisticates, among other formats. service-oriented alternative to a very tra- Fleur du Male is to be sold exclusively in Jean Paul ditional British market model. “I think they Gaultier boutiques starting in March. It will be rolled will be competitive with Barneys,” she said, out in worldwide distribution beginning in April. in terms of a launching pad for new luxuri- The 125-ml. eau de toilette spray will retail for 69 ous brands in a relaxed selling environment. euros, or $91 at current exchange rates; the 75-ml. Asked if there is a need for another beauty size, for 51 euros, or $67; the 40-ml. limited-edition retailer, Chantecaille replied: “If anyone eau de toilette spray, for 39 euros, or $51, and the 75- does something well, they become needed. g. stick deodorant, for 22 euros, or $29. And they have done things well in Europe.” — Jennifer Weil — Pete Born WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 5

WWD.COM European Beauty Retailers Bullish on Season

By Jennifer Weil packaging and advertising that featured French actor extremely well,” said Sue Price, merchandise manager Olivier Martinez. for cosmetics and fragrance at Debenhams, which has PARIS — The shopping season has kicked off full of “It’s a magnetic and sensual fragrance, which attracts 140 doors in the U.K. “The unique offer, lovely juice and holiday cheer, since most European perfumeries expect those customers who are looking for a real classic,” said eye-catching packaging have really driven sales. This to close 2006 with a single-digit to low-double-digit rise Printemps’ Petitcolin, who added that Euphoria Men was further supported with an e-mail campaign and in- year on year. had shown a strong debut. “It’s a product of quality, novative marketing. Our customers loved the pink box Although some of that gain will be thanks to an easy while at the same time very commercial.” and beautiful heart-shaped bottle.” comparison with 2005, when business was soft, an up- At Sephora, Viktor and Rolf ’s Antidote had taken top The fragrance, which is skewed to younger women, tick in numerous Western European economies has con- slot for men. It was followed by L’Homme Yves Saint is working well at 61-door House of Fraser, according tributed. Laurent, Prada Amber Pour Homme and Euphoria. to beauty buyer Debbie Beaumont-Howell. She noted a Yet, that’s not to say fragrance is an easy sell these scent must make strong performances in all aspects of the days. GERMANY product mix to win a top spot at the department store. “Our competition is much broader than in the In Germany, local heroes and designer labels hit high Also working well in House of Fraser were Armani past,” said Damien Viel, fragrance category director at notes in the run-up to the holidays. The One, Jil Sander Code, Agent Provocateur Maitresse and Insolence. Marionnaud Parfumeries, with 560 doors in France, refer- Style and Boss Femme were among the new scents ring- Armani Code was a hit in Debenhams, as was The ring largely to electronics, which have in many instances ing up strongest sales, retailers said. One. supplanted fragrance as the must-have holiday gift. The One lived up to its name, taking the top spot “The One has a glamorous gold bottle and a rich “To be successful today, a scent introduction must be among women’s fragrances in November in the 230- spicy juice,” said Price. “Our customers love the gold multidimensional and create a very strong impact at the member, 330-door Wir für Sie perfumery cooperative. packaging and responded well to the eye-catching tele- retailer —visually, through sound, through smell and so “The One is performing very well, supported by the vision advertisement featuring Gisele [Bundchen].” on,” added Fabien Petitcolin, Printemps department campaign and a very high-quality bottle,” said a coop- Price added that Boss Femme was among the strong store’s beauty buyer, overseeing 17 doors in France. erative spokeswoman. female launches at the store. “A page of advertising in a magazine is not enough. Of German designer brands, Jil Sander and Hugo Boss Over at Harrods, perfumery and cosmetics buyer course, you have to recruit initially, but once a customer — with Style and Boss Femme, respectively — were Caroline Hindle said best-selling women’s scents in- is in the store, you have to continue creating the dream also buoyant among the fl ood of new eaux, as were non- cluded Black Orchid, Vera Wang Princess, Sisley’s Soir and conveying the magic of the product.” German designer launches, including Euphoria Men, de Lune and Armani Privé. In a poll conducted by WWD of perfumery buyers L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent and Lacoste Inspiration. Among men’s introductions, Prada Man worked well representing 1,940 doors across France, Germany, Italy “They all combine success factors like a great juice, in both Debenhams and House of Fraser. Beaumont- and the U.K., a handful of bestsellers were mentioned. interesting packaging and, of course, very appealing Howell put its success down to “quality, not quantity.” Among the top eaux for women are Parfums Nina Ricci’s communication and marketing,” said a spokesman for “Prada Man looked great in store, has a beautiful Nina, Guerlain’s Insolence, Dolce & Gabbana’s The One, the 433-door Douglas perfumery chain. contemporary bottle, which our customers love,” said Jil Sander’s Style, Hugo Boss’ Boss Femme and Parfums At Wir für Sie, among the new women’s launches, Jil Price. “The juice is fresh and clean and very com- Giorgio Armani’s Armani Code. For men, Yves Saint Sander Style reached the number-one slot in October, mercial.” Laurent Parfums’ L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent, Calvin and Boss Femme was at number four. But those moved L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent was a strong performer Klein’s Euphoria Men and Prada Amber Pour Homme down some rungs in November, when Jil Sander Style in both chains. were making waves Europe-wide. And then, of course, took third place and Boss Femme came in fi fth. “Within the men’s winners, Euphoria followed an ex- there are always the regional favorites. In men’s scents, Calvin Klein Euphoria Men hit third tremely successful launch of the female fragrance last The following is what buyers are saying about the spot at Wir für Sie in October and fourth in November. year,” said Price. state of the fragrance business on a country-by-country The scent, which is widely distributed in the co-op, was At Harrods, among the latest entrants in the men’s basis. the only fall launch to make the top 10 list. market, Prada Man and Burberry London for Men were Joop Jump placed 10th there. doing well. FRANCE Harvey Nichols perfumery and cosmetics buyer Recent introductions targeting young consumers, in- Tracy Van Heusden said shoppers were being selective cluding Nina, Insolence and L’Homme Yves Saint ITALY in the high-end department store’s six doors in the U.K. Laurent, are among the success stories at French beauty Among the top-ranking fragrance names in Italy are and Ireland. retailers today. Kenzo Amour, The One, Tom Ford’s Black Orchid and “Factors such as distribution, price discounting and At Marionnaud Parfumeries, Viel said Nina was a Euphoria. brand positioning affect sales of fragrance within our surprise hit. The scent, which was launched in France According to Antonella Mandelli, general manager of stores,” she said. “Customers are driven by designer and in July, is among the three best-selling women’s fra- the Mazzolari perfumery chain, which has 60 stores in niche fragrances.” grances there. Italy, Kenzo Amour is “a great fragrance and has won- — With contributions from Ellen Groves, Paris; “No one was expecting it; it was a late launch and, derful packaging.” Brid Costello, London; Melissa Drier, Berlin, creatively, it resembled Delices de Cartier, so we Simone Destefanis, division manager for cosmetics and Stephanie Epiro, Milan weren’t that confi dent,” he said. “But it’s been a pleas- and well-being at 16 doors of Rinascente de- ant surprise.” partment store, said, “Kenzo Amour is a special Petitcolin of Printemps said Nina was “surely the scent because of its packaging. Its advertising A holiday display at London’s Harvey Nichols. best surprise of the year. The story is very coherent. Its is evocative and dreamlike; it really appeals to spirit of a modern fairy tale and the apple of love is sim- certain customers.” ply charming our customers.” The One is a top seller at Douglas, which has Among what Viel described as an “avalanche” of 115 doors in Italy, according to a spokesman at women’s scents, Insolence has been the most successful the perfumery’s buying offi ce. fall introduction at Marionnaud. Mandelli said The One was selling well, “not “While remaining extremely Guerlain, it has suc- because of the advertising, but the push in terms ceeded in attracting a very young clientele and is show- of in-store marketing, the mini-testers and win- ing very satisfying results,” he said. dow displays.” At single-unit department store Bon Marché, “The One is doing very well, thanks to a mix Insolence leads the pack of women’s fragrances. Marie- of good advertising, the right packaging and the Francoise Stouls, director of the beauty department, scent,” explained Destefanis. said the scent’s strength comes primarily from the huge Mandelli said Black Orchid was going strong, media push backed by actress Hilary Swank. thanks to its long-lasting juice and because it Another hit is Stella in Two, in a solid and a liquid, was “different.” produced by Stella McCartney and her beauty license- “Customers are looking for something differ- holder YSL Beauté. The scent intrigues consumers, ent,” she said. Stouls said. Other scents doing well there were Coty “Tom Ford’s Black Orchid has been a big Inc.’s Marc Jacobs Splash scents and Giorgio Armani’s launch success for us,” continued Destefanis. Cuir Amethyste. “His name carries weight here, not just in fash- Over at Sephora France, with 202 doors, a trio of ion circles, but for people interested in buying a scents owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton product that’s different.” — Insolence, Ange ou Demon and Kenzo Amour — were On the men’s front, he said, “Euphoria by selling best for women. And Nina and Hugo Boss’ Boss Calvin Klein was selling very well.” Femme were among the top fi ve. It was ringing up strong sales at Douglas, too. In men’s fragrances, L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent was the key launch at Marionnaud. And the scent is expected to fi nish the year ahead of Terre d’Hermes, THE U.K. which had until recently been the year’s best-selling Designer brands and niche names were winners men’s fragrance. in U.K. department stores. Vera Wang Princess, Viel attributed YSL’s success to the momentum created Armani Code, The One and Guerlain’s Insolence by the fashion house’s designer Stefano Pilati, who “has received plaudits from buyers in the women’s propelled the brand’s image and status,” and to the fra- arena. Among the men’s scents making a splash grance itself. Viel lauded YSL’s media investment, innova- were Prada Amber Pour Homme (a.k.a. Prada tive merchandising and in-store events for the scent. Man), L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent, Euphoria Bon Marché’s Stouls said L’Homme Yves Saint and Sean John’s Unforgivable. Laurent’s strong performance was due to a mix of juice, “Vera Wang surprised us all and has done 6 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 The Beauty Report Cosmeceuticals Reach the Mainstream

By Molly Prior mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease or claims to affect the structure or function of the body parts on the labels...and in other promotional materials are not BEAUTY IS ON A REPEAT COLLISION COURSE WITH SCIENCE. appropriate for products marketed solely as cosmetics,” because they fall under the The succession of big bangs has spawned a pool of technology-laden serums, led defi nition of a drug. by a pack of dermatologists, that aim to replace the age-old “hope in a jar” with To complicate matters, dermatologists and beauty marketers offer varying “help in a jar,” thanks to reams of clinical data and potent ingredients. defi nitions of “cosmeceutical,” some implying that the word covers brands fronted Many of these high-tech beauty brands, particularly those with an antiaging by doctors, and others assigning the term to products that simply herald science and or medical bent, have latched onto the term “cosmeceutical” to market their of- results. ferings. In his book, “The Wrinkle Cure,” Nicolas Perricone defi nes cosmeceutical It may sound relatively contemporary, but the word “cosmeceutical” was coined as “...a skin treatment that provides added benefi ts beyond a simple cosmetic or in 1984 by Albert Kligman, a dermatologist at the University of Pennsylvania. moisturizer.” Speaking from his residence in The Rittenhouse in downtown Philadelphia, In a recent conversation with WWD, Perricone said, “The beauty industry has Kligman said he came up with the term to acknowledge “the biological fact that a 100-year history of fragrance, oil and water emulsions with lots of marketing anything you put onto your skin has a physiological effect.” hype around them. Because of that history, the cosmetics industry has a credibility “The original defi nition of cosmetics as inert and inactive is biologically archaic,” problem.” he declared. Kligman recalled that when he fi rst presented the idea of cosmeceuti- Perricone is attempting to distance himself from what he calls “hopeless in a jar,” cals, he got fl ak from the beauty industry, which grew concerned that a dermatolo- with formulas based on decades of research on aging. gist’s construct would invite scrutiny from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. “I believe aging is an infl ammatory process. To stop micro infl ammation within The industry has since done an about-face. the skin, you need to interrupt the process with antioxidants,” he said. Perricone’s In the two decades since Kligman’s decree, beauty marketers have run away with line of products, which range from topicals to supplements, are designed to do ex- the term, mining medicine and bio-tech for potent ingredients, including alpha lipoc actly that. acid, alpha hydroxy acids and peptides. Over the last 30 years, Ben Kaminsky, pharmaceutical and dermatological chem- “Today, a soft, pleasant-smelling cream is the equivalent of a ist and president of Odan Laboratories, has developed high school diploma,” quipped Jeanine Recckio, a self-defi ned topicals that are prescribed by doctors and used in beauty and lifestyle futurologist. Describing the mind-set of the hospitals to treat skin conditions. In 1997, he and his prototypical beauty consumer, she said, “She’s 50 and she has ADDING UP BEAUTY son Howard co-founded B. Kamins, Chemist, a skin wrinkles. She will buy anything.” care range billed as “gentle cosmeceutical skin care.” The cosmeceuticals movement, which was fi rst carved out by “It’s no longer acceptable that a skin cream just niche companies, has hit the mainstream. It now accounts for 10 smells good and does nothing for the skin,” said Ben Kaminsky, who ex- percent, or approximately $200 million, of prestige skin care sales, plained B. Kamins, Chemist products are designed to lessen the signs up from 4 percent in 2002, according to The NPD Group, which de- of extrinsic and environmental aging. “You can make a difference in fi nes cosmeceuticals as brands that are inspired by doctors or have solving skin concerns if you match the right preparation with the right a clinical background. Cosmeceuticals’ hefty price tags — which client.” He added that topicals are useful in treating local infl amma- range from $20 to more than $500 with some topping $1,000, accord- tion, but that an extremely high level of antioxidants are needed to fi ght ing to NPD — have undoubtably helped push sales upward. damage caused by free radicals. Kaminsky and his peers Karen Grant, senior beauty industry analyst for NPD, credited acknowledged that most beauty companies are care- a cast of doctors — including Nicolas Perricone, Howard Murad, ful to soften claims, even if they are backed by clinical Howard Sobel of DDF and Dennis Gross of MD Skincare — with pio- research, to avoid the FDA’s scrutiny. neering the trend. However, Scott E. Gurfein, president and chief Many of these offerings are positioned as a more affordable (al- executive officer of Freeze 24/7, said bold claims beit not by much) and less invasive alternative to cosmetic proce- are what separate his company from the rest of dures. Elizabeth Arden accelerated that message by aligning itself the pack. “Being more defi nitive in product state- with pharmaceutical giant Allergan, the maker of Botox, to co-market ment is a competitive advantage,” said Gurfein, Prevage. The antiaging serum is powered by idebenone, which Arden noting the line’s Freeze 24/7 product is frequently com- and Allergan bill as “one of the most potent and effective antioxi- pared to the wrinkle-remover Botox. He noted his com- dants on the market.” pany looks to independent chemists, raw ingredient In fact, Tony Vargas, vice president of global research and de- providers and its own laboratory for technology but velopment for Elizabeth Arden, defi nes cosmeceuticals as “the link describes Freeze’s approach as “less pharmaceutical between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.” Vargas de- and more aspiratioal.” In the end, he said, the consumer clared that the mark of a strong ingredient is one is not concerned with marketing buzz words like cos- that is supported with extensive, third-party clinical meceutical, clarifying,“She says, ‘I have a problem, and testing, which is then shared with peers. He noted I want to solve it.’ ” that research on the effectiveness of idebenone For a cosmeceutical to have merit in medical circles was published in several peer-review journals the product has to have science behind it and the fi n- including the January 2005 Journal of Cosmetic ished formula needs to be tested in humans to ensure Dermatology. it’s free of allergens and is nonirritating, said Jessica

DDF’s co-founder Elaine Linker also looks to THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY Wu, Los Angeles-based dermatologist and creator of pharmaceuticals for inspiration. “Our formulas Dr. Jessica Wu Cosmeceuticals. Wu, who uses her are modeled after effi cacious prescriptions,” product range in her practice, acknowledges said Linker, adding that cosmeceuticals work on that today any doctor can link arms with a a cellular level to improve the skin. She noted contract manufacturer and have a namesake that the explosion of biochemistry has led to a line without much effort. more sophisticated knowledge about how cells Klinger Advanced Aesthetics is trying to function, saying, “In the last 15 years, we have emerge from the crowd of cosmeceuticals gained so much information about preventative with Cosmedicine, a skin care range that re- skin care. In the next decade, I expect that we’ll lies on over-the-counter-grade pharmaceuti- have more information on how to restore skin.” cal ingredients. Wendy Lewis, skin care industry consultant “Cosmeceuticals is just a marketing story,” and author, said that while techie skin care is said Jane Terker, senior vice president and largely a U.S. phenomenon, it’s also export- chief marketing offi cer of KAA. “Our company able. She noted that European retailers — Defi nitions of the term cosmeceuticals still vary. is rooted in science and focused on replica- including Sephora France and Selfridges tive and measurable results.” and Harrods in London — are beginning to Over-the-counter-grade ingredients, noted pluck American-born cosmeceuticals for their beauty mix. Terker, are held to a higher standard of labeling and manufacturing by the FDA. For The Canadian specialty store Holt Renfrew, which was the fi rst retailer to sell instance, all over-the-counter ingredients must be explained in a carefully regulated the Swiss science brand Cellcosmet, has designs to move deeper into cosmeceuti- “drug facts panel” on the back of the product. Over-the-counter status also requires cals, a plan that will soon be refl ected in its Vancouver concept store, said Shelley a strict protocol for manufacturing that stipulates machinery must be meticulously Rozenwald, the retailer’s senior vice president of cosmetics, skin care, fragrance sterilized and that each stage of the manufacturing process is documented. Terker and beauty services. Although she was mum on the details, Rozenwald said that in estimates the effort drives up the cost of manufacturing by more than 30 percent. general Holt Renfrew is careful in considering what science brands to add to the It’s all part of KAA’s ambition to formularize standards in the beauty industry. To mix. Her due diligence includes evaluating the formula’s active ingredients, the that end, KAA recruited Johns Hopkins Medicine to consult on the clinical trials ownership of the company, where the products are manufactured and the name at- and quantitatively measure product benefi ts. Johns Hopkins, which originally was tached to the project. Rozenwald commented, “You have to ask, are there scientists to have a stake in the beauty fi rm but has since rethought that strategy, is paid a or doctors behind it who bring more than their name to the table?” consulting fee. Although the beauty industry tends to use the term “cosmeceuticals” to refer Several beauty executives have suggested that the FDA may broaden its defi - to cosmetics products that have drug-like benefits, the U.S. Food and Drug nition of cosmetics to allow for results-driven offerings that sit between over-the- Administration does not recognize the term. The FDA subjects drugs to an intensive counter and prescription skin care. An FDA spokeswoman said the agency has no review and approval process, but the agency does not approve cosmetics products plans to do so, and that a change in the agency’s authority would require Congress prior to sale. Under the FDA’s Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, in most cases, to change the laws. whether a product is considered a drug or a cosmetic depends on its intended use, “I don’t think anybody’s looking for a miracle in an over-the-counter product,” which is spelled out by packaging and advertising claims. said Alexa B. Kimball, a dermatologist in Boston. “If it were a miracle, its use would A FDA spokeswoman stated that benefi t claims that express or imply “the cure, fl ip over to a drug.” WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 7

WWD.COM Health Clinics Seen Pressuring Beauty

he nation’s drugstores are in the midst of a major caused slower turnover rate in an intensive stockkeep- self and the strategy of that chain. Some are focused on Trepositioning that could have a long-term impact ing unit category. health and wellness and consider beauty part of that on the beauty department. “As such, chain drug managements are looking for and might cut down on seasonal. Others might sacrifi ce Chain after chain is adding in-store mini medical categories where there is a higher return on invest- beauty for seasonal merchandise,” she explained. clinics offering quick tests such as strep throat cultures ment and less competition with Wal-Mart, Target, Some retailers, Kerr Drug for example, have never or cholesterol screenings. By doing so, drugstores are Kmart and dollar stores. Mini-clinics and more health- put a big focus on cosmetics, choosing to be more of a returning to their roots as centers of not only prescrip- related categories fi t drug chains’ profi les and should health care destination. Walgreens, on the other hand, tions, but distributors of health infor- be expanded.” is a major beauty force and has relied on the expertise mation. This positioning strengthens Add to that, he said, of its beauty advisers since the chain was born. their role in the retail business and Walgreens’ fl irtation with ap- There are signs cosmetics, in particular, are get- helps distinguish one chain drugstore parel, as reported this week ting the edit. Wal-Mart has slowly decreased its selec- from another down the block. in WWD, and there is even tion, according to store observers. Other chains such The most vivid example is CVS, as Walgreens have added more nontraditional beauty which acquired MinuteClinics this products such as teeth whiteners into the beauty as- summer. That purchase is expected to sortment. One buyer who asked not to be named be- accelerate CVS’s expansion of in-store clinics. But not cause of the sensitivity of the subject said he’s already only are drug chains adding the clinics, supermarkets been forced to yield some color cosmetics footage to such as Kroger and discount chains including Wal- skin care and hair appliances. Mart and Target are doing the same. Beauty manufacturers, not surprisingly, are fi ght- With the need for space for the clinics — which can ing any urge to chop beauty. “Yes, all departments are range anywhere from 75 square feet to more than 1,000 vulnerable,” admitted Harvey Alstodt, president of Del square feet — comes slicing of other categories. Since Cosmetics. “But what chains should be doing now is beauty is not one of the most productive departments in making a bigger statement than ever about cosmetics.” the store — inventory turns only about three times per That sentiment was echoed by Lisa Yarnell, presi- year — some experts think footage could be siphoned dent of Jane & Co. “Last time I looked, total cosmet- off for the clinics. Others disagree and say that beauty ics in the drugstore channel was up 4.9 percent year goes hand in hand with the wellness positioning. to date, doing $1 billion in sales on 230 million units Exacerbating the situation is that there are more A Walgreens mini medical clinic. sold,” she said. “I don’t know what the rest of the areas competitors than ever for beauty sales and the mass in drug are doing, but 5 percent ‘ain’t too shabby’ in market category is in desperate need of some block- today’s marketplace. Why oh why would they want to buster launches to get shoppers coming to the store for greater pressure on beauty. Walgreens is offering ap- cut into $1 billion in sales that has an average gross cosmetics and other health and beauty items. parel and jewelry to differentiate it from competitors. margin of 4 percent or better?” “Chain drugstores have been under pressure in Candace Corlett, principal with WSL Strategic Yet not all operators see the natural link between makeup and fragrances because they sell the same Retail, agrees that chains are measuring right down to beauty and health care. As retailers look for ways to products as mass merchandisers but at higher prices,” the inch when it comes to space allocations. “But I think extend mini clinics, the industry watches and hopes explained industry consultant Allan Mottus. “This has whether beauty is reduced depends upon the chain it- beauty real estate doesn’t suffer. CVS Puts Final Touches on Southern California Comeback By Rachel Brown stores in Southern California. She will oversee the ad- stores and use those differences to my advantage?’ ” visers as they go through training: four days of classes CVS measures the regional variations statistically. LOS ANGELES — CVS’s prowess at digesting com- on lines featured in CVS’s Healthy Skincare Centers, “Each store is merchandized somewhat differently de- petitors’ stores is being put to the test in Southern up-front displays of skin care-targeted items by Vichy, pending on the demographic. If in a market 10 percent California, where the company is wrapping up a re- La Roche-Posay, Eau Thermale Avene and CVS exclu- of our customers are Hispanic, we treat that different- vamp of the Sav-on drugstores jettisoned by Albertson’s sives Lumene and Skin Effects by Dr. Jeffrey Dover. ly,” said Eileen Howard Dunn, vice president of corpo- earlier this year. The advisers do not receive commissions based on rate communications for CVS. “Everybody has a base The revamp marks a return for CVS, the country’s the sales of specifi c brands. case from an inventory perspective — it is just some of largest drugstore retailer by store count, to the region, “In a discount store, there’s no service. In a de- the nuances that depend on the demographic.” which is home to about half of the 701 Sav-on and Osco partment store, I feel it is a little intimidating to have CVS was schooled in Hispanic shopping patterns stores it nabbed in January for $2.9 billion in cash. someone behind the counter, and a lot of their com- after the 2004 purchase of Eckerd stores concentrat- Prior to the acquisition, only 21 CVS stores remained missions are based on that line,” said Sciurba. “I want ed in Florida and Texas. In predominantly Hispanic here after the Woonsocket, R.I.-based chain sold off someone that’s going to sell me what I need, not what areas, CVS puts up Spanish signage and injects the units to Sav-on in the early Nineties. they’re asked to push.” merchandise mix with personal care products — such The integration of Sav-on exposes West Coast drug- The larger store footprint in the converted CVS as Maja soap — targeting Hispanics. In Southern store customers to CVS’s particular take on beauty units provides additional space to stock the full range California, CVS’s aggressive advertising campaign in- departments. The store format being rolled out is the of products in the proprietary lines, swell other exist- cludes commercials running on Spanish-language as national standard with the latest improvements, in- ing offerings or bring in new brands. Walking through a well as English-language TV, radio spots, billboards cluding pastel graphics and lower shelving, to help ac- CVS store located in Marina del Rey, Calif., Day noted and ads in local newspapers and circulars. commodate females who make up a majority of CVS the beauty department was twice the size of like sec- The nod to Hispanics and the expanded beauty prod- shoppers. Stores have been expanded to fi t the typical- tions in Boston, where he recently visited. Despite re- uct assortment are part of a strategy to hang on to cus- ly roomier Sav-on size of 18,000 square feet to 20,000 gional discrepancies, buying for all the chain’s beauty tomers loyal to the absorbed chain, while reaching out to square feet, compared to CVS’s departments is handled in CVS’s those who have favored department stores, grocery mar- 13,000-square-foot average. Woonsocket headquarters. kets or discounters for personal care. “The CVS’s of the Unlike at Sav-on, where the place- “There was a lot of hard work world are looking to attract the Whole Foods customer: ment of beauty departments varied done in Rhode Island to prepare someone who is higher-education, higher-income and widely, beauty is mainly at the front for what sorts of lines you’d put in is willing to pay a premium for quality products,” said of the store and is one of the fi rst Southern California that we can ex- Morris Shriftman, senior vice president of marketing departments a customer sees when pand quickly or that we don’t have and product development for Avalon Natural Products, stepping through the door, said Ron in other places,” said Day. of why CVS is adding natural and organic lines. Day, a former Sav-on executive who Mineral makeup brands, natu- CVS has put its merchandising decisions up to in- is now a CVS area vice president. At ral and organic products, items tense scrutiny. Before putting its stamp on Sav-on Sav-on, he said, “I don’t think the aimed at Hispanic customers and stores, CVS vetted the concept throughout the summer beauty experience was emphasized European lines are among the big at a 22,000-square-foot former Sav-on in Saugus, Calif., a as much. It was more of a tradition- CVS shelf-space winners in Southern small, but rapidly growing upper-middle-class commu- al drugstore. They had some of the California. Physicians Formula has nity in Los Angeles County. There, CVS conducted focus normal makeup lines, but nothing to a four-foot spread in the Marina del groups to gauge shoppers’ reactions to its changes. the depth of some of the proprietary Rey store but rarely exceeded one “We wanted to see how many lines we could put in lines or private label we have.” foot in Sav-on, according to Sciurba. that store and test those lines and see what customer About half of the CVS stores in Barbara Sciurba, Lucie Cervantes, CVS also has extensive presentations acceptance would be,” said Day. Southern California feature beauty beauty manager at CVS’s Marina of Juice Organics, Avalon Organics The outcome: Day reported focus group participants advisers — there are up to three in a del Rey store, and Ron Day. and Jason Natural Personal Care largely gave CVS high marks and, most importantly, the store — who man the beauty depart- TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY Products, brands that had limited or Saugus store experienced a sales bump. (Day declined ments, conduct minutes-long skin no availability at Sav-on. to disclose the exact sales increase.) Across CVS’s near- analyses and instruct customers on products that best “When you acquire a chain, the natural inclination ly 6,200 stores, revenues climbed 23.3 percent to $3.6 suit their skin types. Sav-on stores did not have em- would be to mirror the current base of stores,” said billion for the four-week period ended Nov. 25. ployees devoted to beauty departments. Michael Indursky, chief marketing and strategic offi cer What’s left for CVS to do? The remodel continues, Barbara Sciurba, a CVS regional category special- at Burt’s Bees, another natural line CVS carries. “What but now the Midwest is a focus, where Osco stores are ist in beauty, is busy hiring 100 beauty advisers for 62 CVS said is, ‘How can I take the differences in the experiencing their own CVS makeover. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM The HBA Report WWD.COM Ultra Shaping Lower East Side Look By Andrea Nagel said Jones, who approaches each head of Inside Ultra salon. hair as a dermatologist would approach n uptown salon on the Lower East Side seems, at skin. She assesses whether hair is col- Afi rst, like a fi sh out of water. But like many neighbor- ored, slightly damaged, moderately dam- hoods being transformed into destination areas for un- aged or extremely damaged, and also likely interests — the Meatpacking District as a fashion takes into consideration any scalp condi- and beauty mecca still seems strange — the area that’s tions, such as fl akiness, redness and dry- home to Yonah Schimmel and Katz’s Deli now is attract- ness. She offers different conditioning ing a woman who wants an “A” salon experience. treatments based on her assessment, and Since May, Ultra, located on 123 Essex Street, has has elixirs for diffi cult-to-color hair. been aiming to do just that. “Gray hair is much less porous that Owned by Mary Jones and Randall Seale, Ultra nongray hair, so sometimes a treatment needed new, bigger digs after it outgrew its former prior to coloring helps gray hair take the space on 233 East 4th Street, where it was for nine color better,” said Jones. In these cases, years. Now the 1,500-square-foot, two-story space of- she recommends Bonacure Repair Rescue fers 14 styling stations and three blowdry stations, and 1 and 2, by Schwarzkopf, which she said is employs six senior stylists, a junior stylist and a nail best for hair with uneven porosity. technician. Annual sales are about $650,000. Each stylist at Ultra has a specialty de-

There is also a 300-square-foot retail area stocked signed to meet every customer’s needs. STEPHEN SULLIVAN PHOTO BY with Japanese products such as Boce shampoos and Seale, an owner and operator of Ultra, treatments ($17- $25), Magic Move (a pomade, $19) is best known for turning women “Texan blonde.” jobs. Manicures, pedicures, waxing, makeup applica- and Foundation Jell (a blow-dry serum, $33), as well Tanya Pacht, a senior stylist and the salon’s manager, tion and eyebrow shaping are also available. Prices, as MD Skin Care, Tigi items and MOP shampoos and has a way with hair extensions. Joe Calcagno, a senior which range from $75 to $125 for cuts and start at $80 conditioners. stylist, is an expert blow-dryer, as well as a colorist for a single process, make Ultra affordable for those Jones, a master colorist, selects items to sell that and stylist. Samantha Tsistinas, a senior stylist, cre- without a huge budget. are formulated to maintain color, add moisture and ates colorful do’s and individualist haircuts. Kyoko “I think the atmosphere here says that everyone is protect hair from the sun. Motonaga, also a senior stylist, fl ourishes at chemical welcome,” said Jones. “It’s a place where there’s qual- “This helps to maintain the integrity of our work,” treatments, such as perms, thermal relaxers and color ity without all the pretense.” Nivea Says ‘Good-bye’ to Cellulite SNIPPETS aking cues from its European business, Nivea would drive business up by 20 percent. Taims to make a big splash in the U.S. mar- Nivea is introducing Sun-Kissed Firming ALBERTO-CULVER PLANT: The Alberto-Culver Co. plans to build a ket with five products designed to firm, tan and Moisturizer for body and face, $6.99, designed 500,000-square-foot manufacturing facility in Jonesboro, Ark., renew skin. to fi rm and gradually tan skin after fi ve days. that is slated to begin production by early 2008. Construction “We wanted to leverage our experience and Available in two shades — fair to medium skin is expected to begin early next year and cost about $60 million. success in other countries and bring it to the and medium to dark skin — the body moisturizer The plant will include production, warehouse and offi ce space U.S. marketplace,” said Arnisha Hallett-Jones, contains ginkgo extract, which is designed to boost and will eventually employ 400 people, according to Richard Nivea’s marketing director. collagen to fi rm skin, and grape seed oil, an anti- Mewborn, the fi rm’s vice president of worldwide operations. He This March, the Beiersdorf-owned brand plans oxidant, to moisturize. Glycerin and dihydroxyac- added the company plans to close a manufacturing facility in to introduce Good-bye Cellulite, Sun-Kissed etone work together to gradually darken the skin. Dallas in the coming year, and said he anticipates most of that Firming Moisturizers for the body and face, and “We came out with shimmer products a few plant’s production will eventually be shifted to Jonesboro. Visage Q10 Gentle Spa Micro-Dermabrasion Kit years ago, but these are the fi rst gradual tanning to mass retailers. products that also offer fi rming. Over the past two COHEN TO BOND: Fragrance marketer Bond No. 9 has The Good-bye Cellulite collection, which in- years, this category has exploded,” said Hallett- appointed Frédéric Cohen export director, overseeing the fi rm’s cludes gel-cream and patches, was introduced Jones. “Not only are we leveraging our fi rming international division, a new position. The brand is found in 12 earlier this year in European markets, including expertise, but we’re also offering consumers the international markets now, and Bond No. 9 plans to enter eight France, Germany and Italy. According to Hallett- benefi t of a gradual tan in fi ve days versus seven new markets next year. Cohen most recently worked at Clarins, Jones, Good-bye Cellulite became the number- days, like most tanning products.” where he was responsible for the central and Eastern European one selling product in the anticellulite category Nivea Visage’s Q10 Gentle Spa Micro- markets. in France, where the segment Dermabrasion Kit, designed is more developed. Research to improve and refine the COOKING UP A STORM: While December isn’t traditionally Breast showed that more than 31 skin’s texture, will be avail- Cancer Awareness month, Evelyn Lauder is making awareness million people are interested able exclusively in the U.S. of the cause a year-round endeavor. Lauder, senior corporate in fi ghting cellulite, but only beginning in March for vice president of the Estée Lauder Cos. and the founder of the 1.9 million people have tried $19.99. Nivea’s research Breast Cancer Research Foundation, appeared at Saks Fifth cellulite-fighting products, showed that 90 percent of Avenue’s Manhattan fl agship Thursday afternoon to promote her said Hallett-Jones. consumers know what micro- cookbook, “In Great Taste: Fresh, Simple Recipes for Eating “We found that over 29 dermabrasion is, but only 18 and Living Well” (Rodale), signing more than 250 books and million women haven’t tried percent have tried it because generating large crowds. Saks donated an additional $10,000 cellulite products, mainly they either don’t understand to the profi ts generated from the books Lauder signed during because they never believed it, it’s too expensive or it’s too her appearance. “We’re proud to play a small part in this very in it,” said Hallett-Jones. “We harsh on the skin. The three- important cause,” said Stephen Sadove, chief executive offi cer saw a huge opportunity in step kit, which includes a of Saks Fifth Avenue. Lauder isn’t done stirring the pot, either: this segment.” pretreatment cleanser, micro- She will appear on QVC on Dec. 17 at 11 a.m. EST, as a guest Nivea found that the anti- dermabrasion gel and post- on “In the Kitchen With Bob,” to sell the book. cellulite category in the U.S. treatment balm, is designed prestige market was an $82 to gently rejuvenate the skin, SWEETS AND SCENTS: Pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini drew inspiration million business and prod- Nivea’s Good-bye Cellulite gel-cream and improving skin’s smoothness, from Vera Wang’s Princess fragrance at Macy’s Herald Square on ucts retail at an average of $48 patches. softness and glow. Tuesday evening as he sculpted spiced apple cake and whipped each. The mass market gener- Although she would not up apricot frappé, two fruit essences used in the composition of ates a $15 million business and products average disclose details of the upcoming advertising ef- the scent. Iuzzini, who is pastry chef at Jean Georges restaurant, $12 each, said Hallett-Jones. forts, Hallett-Jones said Nivea had invested an demonstrated desserts before about 100 people in the store’s Retailing for $12.99 each, the Good-Bye “unprecedented amount of money” into an ag- cellar kitchen. “We’re trying to educate people about fragrance Cellulite gel-Cream and patches contain l-carni- gressive campaign, which will include print, tele- in a different way,” he said. Similar events also were held at tine, an amino acid derivative found in the skin vision, promotions and sampling, and extensive Macy’s stores in Chicago, Miami and San Francisco, where that is said to help convert fat into energy by fuel- online initiatives. Iuzzini created desserts inspired by the Angel, Juicy Couture ing cells. The patches are designed to be worn two “Our market may still be underdeveloped, but and Miss Dior Chéri scents. “We created these events [because] to three times a week for eight hours to reduce when we entered other countries where the catego- customers are very interested in fi nding out more about the appearance of cellulite in thighs, buttocks ry was already very developed, Nivea came in and popular gourmand fragrances,” said Debbie Murtha, senior vice and stomach. According to Hallett-Jones, after became number one,” Hallett-Jones said. “We see president of cosmetics for Macy’s Merchandising Group. “We’re two weeks of use, the skin will be fi rmer and more the opportunity these categories represented.” looking to bring the palette and senses together.” toned. In four weeks, there will be a visible reduc- TV and print ads for Sun-Kissed Firming tion in the appearance of cellulite, she said. Moisturizer and Good-bye Cellulite are slated HOLIDAY CHEER: Cosmetic Executive Women Foundation, Nivea declined to comment on sales projec- to break in April. Nivea will support the micro- the philanthropic arm of CEW, honored Johnson & Johnson tions, but Hallett-Jones said she expected the dermabrasion launch with print ads that will also Consumer Cos. Inc. at its annual holiday luncheon at the cellulite collection to boost its U.S. business by break in April. As part of the sampling program, Waldorf-Astoria Hotel on Tuesday. The event, which raised 10 percent, while fi rst-year sales of new products, about fi ve million Good-bye Cellulite products $450,000, benefi ts Cancer and Careers, a CEW Foundation including the cellulite line, color-enhancing body will be distributed. program that provides support for working women with cancer and face lotions and a microdermabrasion kit, — Michelle Edgar and their employers. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 9 WWD.COM Lapo Elkann and the go-go dancers. Susanne Deeken at Gotham Hall.

The masked revelry at Gotham Hall. Penélope Cruz in Dolce & Gabbana. Piazza San Marco Costumed revelers at Marc Jacobs’ annual holiday bash took this year’s Venetian Carnival theme so much to heart that it felt like everyone was partying as if the city of canals would be underwater by morning. There were gondoliers galore, harlequins bounding about and women dressed in corsets so tight they could barely speak. “I can breathe, but I can’t really move,” whispered Lisa Airan, dressed in a traditional Venetian gown originally created for Sophia Loren. The tiny-waisted socialite wasn’t the only partygoer to forsake comfort for costume. “Robert [Duffy] told me I should just spray-paint myself gold and go naked,” said Jacobs, whose constraining pigeon getup was in honor of all the birds in Piazza San Marco. “But I won’t host a party unless I’m the most uncomfortable person in the room.” The designer had Duffy to thank for the evening’s lavish theme. “I had to think of one in 30 seconds or less,” Duffy explained. “I said to Marc, ‘How about Venice Carnival?’ He said no, and I said, ‘Shut up.’” Marc Good for Duffy, because in the end, all Jacobs’ staff and friends, Jacobs including Lapo Elkann, Allison Sarofi m and Lars Nilsson, embraced the night with gusto. As confetti and feathers rained down from the domed ceiling of New York’s Gotham Hall, a group of courtesans and their masked suitors began a studied waltz, which many in the crowd joined in on, albeit stumbling on their two left feet. Other guests simply admired each other’s inspired creations. One skyscraping couple came as French poodles, while a clever foursome A couple of French poodles. barreled in dressed as the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (each one is named after a famous Italian painter, after all). But it was the curvy, topless Rachel Roy girls and muscular G-stringed boys gyrating on the podiums whom everyone really ogled. “I can’t stop looking at their asses,” Rachel Roy laughed. Meanwhile, at the Gramercy Park Hotel, Vogue and the Diamond Trading Co. hosted a birthday party for Milla Jovovich in the space destined to be the hotel’s new restaurant, Park Chinois. Jovovich was a gracious guest of honor, greeting friends such as Harvey Weinstein, Georgina Chapman, Margherita Missoni and a slew of male and female models. But she revealed she didn’t have much practice. “The last time I celebrated my birthday I was 13,” laughed Jovovich, who offi cially turns 31 on Sunday. “I’ve pretty much always been working on my birthday or fl ying back from somewhere, so I usually just have a quiet dinner with family. But Vogue called me, and what Anna [Wintour] wants, Anna gets.” Besides, the actress-designer has plenty of things on her mind other than her birthday. She just bought a house in Los Angeles with her fi ancé, Paul W.S. Anderson, which she describes as “Spanish hacienda style — I want it to look like the Chateau Marmont,” and has a new puppy schnauzer named Oliver Cromwell. As for party guests, the main worry was what to get the birthday girl. Luckily for Jovovich, at least one gift was taken care of as the DTC presented her with one of its right-handed diamond rings, a 3-carat, Caressa-cut stunner, designed by Taché, which Jovovich proudly fl ashed (along with her engagement ring) as she danced and mingled. Partner Carmen Hawk mused about giving her one of her multimedia paintings, while Amy Smart, in town fi lming “Life in Flight” with Patrick Wilson, was just happy to catch up with her longtime buddy. “We’ve known each other since I was 13,” said the chocolate-tressed Smart. “I have no idea what to get her.” On the West Coast that same night, a bevy of black-clad beauties fi led into L.A.’s Chateau Marmont for a party Ginnifer hosted by Dolce & Gabbana and Penélope Cruz to launch Goodwin an online auction of four of Cruz’s Dolce & Gabbana in Dolce & gowns to benefi t the art charity du jour, Art of Elysium. Gabbana. Almost every clotheshorse in Hollywood — including Salma Hayek, Mia Maestro, Sharon Stone, Ginnifer Goodwin, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen and Mischa Barton Salma Hayek and Mia Maestro, Milla Jovovich in — jumped at the chance to don a clingy dress by the both in Dolce & Gabbana. Jovovich-Hawk.

JACOBS PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; JOVOVICH BY KRISTEN SOMODY; DOLCE & GABBANA BY JOHN SCIULLI/WIREIMAGE DOLCE & GABBANA BY KRISTEN SOMODY; STEVE EICHNER; JOVOVICH BY PHOTOS BY JACOBS PARTY designers and size up the competition. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Newspapers’ Future: Think Like a Magazine

By Amy Wicks [designated market area] and are tough to buy around if the target is an upscale, edu- cated audience,” he said. “Advertisers must be prepared to walk away or the negotia- hile it’s no news circulation is slipping at major metropolitan newspapers such tions may not be successful.” Was the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal and the Los Angeles Times, ob- George Janson, managing partner and director of print at mediaedge:cia, said he servers are asking why these publications are continuing to raise ad rates as some is open to negotiating rates but isn’t happy about the fact that even though newspaper subscribers head for the door. circulation drops every year, ad rates still rise (the L.A. Times, New York Times and But the L.A. Times has a bone to pick with those who wonder whether it is still a the Journal are all planning increases for 2007). Janson works with clients including viable avenue in which to advertise and obtain news. Looking ahead, a spokeswoman Chanel and Xerox. indicated the paper will start thinking more like a magazine when it comes to read- Regarding its ad rate increase, a New York Times spokeswoman contended the ers and focus on growing its individual paid paper “remains one of the best places to reach an infl uential, educated, high-qual- circulation. The Audit Bureau of Circulations ity audience. Advertisers continue to value that reach and are willing to pay a Fas-Fax report showed that for the six months premium for it.” ended in September, the West Coast paper fell One executive who agrees with that philosophy is Ruediger Albers, president 8 percent in daily circulation, but the spokes- The new of jewelry fi rm Wempe. He advertises in the New York Times and the Wall Street woman countered that ABC’s number includ- L.A. Times Journal and partially attributes Wempe’s success to his regular exposure in both pa- ed “other paid circulation,” such as copies section. pers. “What’s the alternative to reaching one million people that have the spending delivered to hotel rooms. Incidentally, ABC’s power of New York Times readers?” he asked. statistics also showed that the L.A. Times in- As for the Journal, Albers is partial to its value-added opportunities, such as being dividual paid circulation is up. “Individually invited to an event where he can mingle with other advertisers and consumers. At paid copies deliver a more engaged reader to one event, a chance meeting with S. Epatha Merkerson led to the actress wearing advertisers and therefore a more favorable (and being photographed in) Wempe jewelry at major award shows. Albers is con- return on investment,” she said — in other sidering increasing his schedules in both papers, but negotiations aren’t fi nalized. words, newsstand. Presumably rates and placement remain an issue. And that’s not the only magazine trait the Amid weakening ad trends, the Internet seems to offer more hope. The New York Times will start exhibiting. Looking forward, Times Co. recently reported that its Internet revenue might increase 30 percent next the newspaper will offer more options for ad- year, and a source said the L.A. Times “is in the same ball- vertisers, including front-section strips in sev- park, if not slightly ahead of ” the New York Times projec- eral sections, innovative ad units and multi- tion. A spokeswoman said Dow Jones Online isn’t report- media packages. On the edit side, the Times is ing forecasts for 2007, but this year online revenues were ramping up its fashion and lifestyle coverage. up 20 percent. Late last year, Elizabeth Snead, who has covered fashion for USA Today Ad-tracking fi rm TNS Media Intelligence projects ad- and E! Online’s Fashion Police, joined its online awards Web site, The vertising budgets to stall next year, but the silver lining Envelope, for its “Styles & Scenes” coverage. The paper also recently will be growth in online media (including search), which unveiled a redesign of its Sunday Calendar. The two-part section was is coincidentally expected to grow up to 30 percent. Sarah renamed “Movies-TV-Style” and “Arts & Music.” Baehr, vice president of media at Avenue A | Razorfi sh, “The intensifi ed editorial ranges from society events and fashion said the company predicts that online will outpace other trends to pop culture and Web discoveries and the rich arts scene,” said media growth for three main reasons: The share of on- a spokeswoman. The New York line media is still disproportionately small compared But fashion advertisers may really start to take notice once the paper Times has with offl ine media, several marketers haven’t maximized introduces a new weekly fashion and lifestyle section, for print and on- attracted their fullest potential online, and the accountability and line. Sources close to the L.A. Times confi rmed plans are under way, but fashion and tractability of online (compared to other media) are no timetable has been set. beauty ads compelling. Meanwhile, the Wall Street Journal has also expanded its style cov- with T. While speaking at a New Yorker breakfast, Sir Martin erage. Journal publisher L. Gordon Crovitz previously told WWD that Sorrell, group chief executive at WPP Group, said people female Journal readers purchase “more women’s fashion items than do spend approximately 20 percent of their time online, but all the readers of the women’s magazines — combined.” advertising online budgets are still in the single digits. As the L.A. Times and the Journal continue to chase those stylish ad He cited News Corp. owner Rupert Murdoch as an excel- dollars, some advertisers are seeking ad rate cuts, especially since newspapers are lent example of utilizing the Internet (MySpace, for one) and said most established cutting deals like never before. “I suspect that many, but not all, newspaper pub- agencies aren’t moving fast enough to gain a foothold in this arena. Sir Martin con- lishers are running scared,” said Gene Willhoft, president of Absolute Media. Still, tended the delay is partially due to the fact that top executives at agencies are Willhoft said, there is a major hurdle for advertisers who seek lower ad rates. The nearing retirement and want to coast in their jobs and leave the Internet issue to L.A. Times and New York Times “are very important papers in their respective DMAs their future replacements.

But don’t think that Debra Birnbaum, the ousted editor expand its display pockets in the new year. — S.D.S. of Life & Style, would come in to save the day. Sources close to Birnbaum said she wouldn’t be interested — she COMPLEX CAMPAIGN: The last thing a marketer wants to MEMO PAD and Fuller worked together years ago at Us Weekly, but do when unveiling a $100 shoe called the Original NBA the collaboration lasted a week. Sources also contended Superstar is place an ordinary ad page in a magazine. SICKLY E-MAIL: Note to media executives: upgrade your Pecker could move Perel back to Star to replace Dolce or That’s why Adidas tapped Complex and basketball lifestyle Norton AntiSpam software. A mysterious, pesky chain hire a new news director or Los Angeles bureau chief. title Dime to create a custom 24-page pullout poster in e-mail virus began hitting in-boxes at a handful of According to fi gures from the Audit Bureau of the magazines’ December/January issues to showcase major media outlets on Thursday, fl ummoxing reporters Circulations’ Rapid Report, Star has performed poorly at the shoe from the lens of each magazine. Complex took and executives who were desperately trying to stop the the newsstand. Its Nov. 20 issue sold 552,500 copies, its the task a step further, creating an accompanying blog at unwanted onslaught. lowest newsstand sale in three years and lower than the complex.com. But the blog isn’t for talking trash about “I had maybe 80 of them at a time today and number of copies sold of British import OK for the same basketball teams — it’s to help track down hard-to-fi nd yesterday,” David Rooney, chief theater critic for week — 570,000. The Dec. 4 issue sold 672,500, and, pairs of shoes in other cities. entertainment trade Variety, said Thursday. “I was going while fi gures for the Dec. 11 issue had not yet posted, Adidas is slowly rolling out its new Superstar sneaker to start screaming. It went to every major media person in sources close to the circulation fi gures said the issue’s with 30 styles representing each team in the NBA. For one the world.” newsstand sales were in the low 600,000. Preliminary month, the shoe will be available only in one boutique in The e-mail, from the address screenmags@lists. sales for last week’s Dec. 18 issue were said to be as each city. But if a fan lives in Portland, and the Portland pluguglyfi lms.com, targeted employees at the New York low as 475,000, according to one source with access Superstars are sold out in Oregon, what can he do? Send Post, Associated Press, CBS, IFC TV, NBC/Universal, Clear to circulation fi gures, but a spokesman for the company a message to the blog asking other shoe buffs if they’ve Channel and Dennis Publishing’s music title Blender, to said the issue was tracking around 550,000. “They’re in got a pair in their city, and hopefully a swap can be made. name a few. The e-mail asks recipients if they would like trouble,” said a source. After Jan. 5, the shoes will be available in most sports to be removed from a Listserv, but, upon replying, the Granted, over the last three years, sales numbers retailers, though the blog will stay live through February. sender seemed to actually be perpetuating the e-mail’s in the second half are usually weaker than in the fi rst, The ad insert and the blog are just more examples viral spread to their own contacts. since sales tend to rise in the summer as more people of how marketers are increasingly looking beyond the Some up-in-arms recipients began to take an “if you take vacation or travel. But even if high estimates hold, page in print advertising. But while the digital bells can’t beat ’em, join ’em” approach, with one journalist those numbers are well off from the magazine’s second- and whistles may seem innovative, some advertisers replying: “Please add me to this list.” — Stephanie D. Smith half 2005 average of 863,508. And, according to those see customized digital media as par for the course. “A close to the company, at one time a sale below 700,000 blogging component is becoming almost a mainstay,” said STARRY EYES: Star’s woes continue to mount as newsstand was considered a “real catastrophe” at AMI. But one Abby Guyer, an Adidas spokeswoman. “Now, as the media sales have softened in the second half of the year. But executive close to AMI said that statement does not take tools that are at your disposal expand, the things that are what can American Media chief David Pecker do to stave into account the seasonality of newsstand sales: “Selling standard are expanding.” the bleeding? According to the New York Post, Pecker 700,000 in the summer, I wouldn’t be excited about, but For Complex, the customized unit was worth nearly a decided this week to have all of Star’s West Coast selling 700,000 in the winter, I’m pretty happy.” — S.D.S. year’s schedule of pages from Adidas. “Adidas…allowed entertainment stories vetted through National Enquirer us to create a truly custom program that is valued at 20 editor in chief David Perel. But that’s just one option. ARE THINGS OK?: Though OK has seen sales increase to an pages’ worth of media in the magazine,” said Complex Several sources close to the magazine speculate Pecker average hovering around 500,000 for the second half of publisher Rich Antoniello. Theoretically, at an open page could replace Star editor Joe Dolce, whose contract is said this year, the cover price held steady at $1.99. As of this rate of $28,475 in 2007, that’s about $570,000 worth to expire in the fi rst half of next year. “They could bring week, the price increased to $2.99. But not just its price of business — although presumably Adidas got a much in some young gun that would work under Bonnie [Fuller],” is increasing: OK will raise its rate base to 850,000 from better deal. It’s also worth considering Adidas ran a total said one source close to Star. 750,000 in January as the company plans to aggressively of 18 pages with Complex in all of 2006. — S.D.S. WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 11 WWD.COM Ellen Kate Evangeline Pompeo Winslet Lilly

Helen Rinko Meryl Beyoncé Emily NITZ/WIREIMAGE Mirren Kikuchi Streep Knowles Blunt Chase Begins for the Golden Globes By Marcy Medina ● Judi Dench, “Notes on a Scandal” TELEVISION Best Performance by an Actress in a ● Maggie Gyllenhaal, “Sherrybaby” Mini-series or Motion Picture Made for LOS ANGELES — Designers know the ● Helen Mirren, “The Queen” Best Performance by an Actress in a Television drill, and immediately after nominations ● Kate Winslet, “Little Children” Television Series — Drama ● Gillian Anderson, “Bleak House” for the 64th Annual Golden Globe ● Patricia Arquette, “Medium” ● Annette Bening, “Mrs. Harris” Awards were announced here Thursday, Best Performance by an Actress in a ● Edie Falco, “The Sopranos” ● Helen Mirren, “Elizabeth I” the fashion industry sprung to action, Motion Picture — Comedy Or Musical ● Evangeline Lilly, “Lost” ● Helen Mirren, “Prime Suspect: The setting in motion the process of wooing ● Annette Bening, “Running With ● Ellen Pompeo, “Grey’s Anatomy” Final Act” that is intended to eventually result in Scissors” ● Kyra Sedgwick, “The Closer” ● Sophie Okonedo, “Tsunami, the dressing, bejeweling and beautifying the ● Toni Collette, “Little Miss Sunshine” Aftermath” actresses who will walk the red carpet. ● Beyoncé Knowles, “Dreamgirls” Best Performance by an Actress The awards, from the Hollywood Foreign ● Meryl Streep, “The Devil Wears in a Television Series — Comedy Best Performance by an Actress in Press Association, are considered a Prada” or Musical a Supporting Role in a Series, predictor of the Oscars. The Golden ● Renée Zellweger, “Miss Potter” ● Marcia Cross, “Desperate Mini-series or Motion Picture Made Globes gala is to be broadcast live on Housewives” for Television NBC at 8 p.m. EST on Jan. 15. Best Performance by an Actress in a ● America Ferrera, “Ugly Betty” ● Emily Blunt, “Gideon’s Daughter” Supporting Role in a Motion Picture ● Felicity Huffman, “Desperate ● Toni Collette, “Tsunami, the FILM ● Adriana Barraza, “Babel” Housewives” Aftermath” ● Cate Blanchett, “Notes on a Scandal” ● Julia Louis-Dreyfus, “The New ● Katherine Heigl, “Grey’s Anatomy” Best Performance by an Actress in a ● Emily Blunt, “The Devil Wears Prada” Adventures of Old Christine” ● Sarah Paulson, “Studio 60 on the Motion Picture — Drama ● Jennifer Hudson, “Dreamgirls” ● Mary-Louise Parker, “Weeds” Sunset Strip” ● Penélope Cruz, “Volver” ● Rinko Kikuchi, “Babel” ● Elizabeth Perkins, “Weeds”

One of the leather TV’s ‘L Word’ Leads to New Fashion Collection handbags By Sharon Edelson “L”elements of Style have identifi ed themselves as from TES. members of the lesbian and gay communities, or have EEP BY DANIELE VENTURELLI/WIREIMAGE; KNOWLES BY JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE; BLUNT BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; LILLY BY STEVE GRA BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; LILLY BY BLUNT JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE; DANIELE VENTURELLI/WIREIMAGE; KNOWLES BY EEP BY NEW YORK — “L”elements of Style, a new limited- businesses that cater to them. edition collection of apparel, handbags and jewelry, Honey Labrador, a former model who was the fi rst inspired by the women of the television show “The L lesbian to be featured on “Queer Eye for the Straight Word,” will launch Jan. 3. Girl,” has designed jeans for “L”elements, while Udi The products will be based on the Showtime series Behr, whose company Love and Pride sells same-sex about lesbians and will be sold only through Feb. 28 in wedding bands and commitment rings, designed an ex- specialty stores, such as Atrium in Manhattan; Brown tensive collection for “L”elements that ranges in price Eyed Girl in San Francisco; Duets, Nashville; Ultimo, from $29 for a stainless steel and rubber bracelet to $695 Chicago; Mitzi & Romano, Atlanta, and for an 18-karat gold ring with the female Lulu, Miami. Other retailers will be insignia highlighted in black enamel. added in Los Angeles and Washington. Jeans by Laura Dahl, the designer of Wife- “L”elements also will be sold on the Honey beader tops hand-beaded with pearls, Showtime Web site. Labrador. quartz, citrine, garnet and peridot, Jennifer Beals’ Bette character is is launching a line of contemporary generally considered to be the best- sportswear for “L”elements. Handbags dressed one on the series. The offi cial will come from Cate Adair, a costume Web site states that one of her favorite designer for “Desperate Housewives,” outfi ts was a Max Mara black ruched and Tali Epstein Segal, who designs dress with an Alexander McQueen pink under the label TES. Blue Cult is sup- A Laura coat and Gucci pumps. However, the plying intricately detailed jeans and Dahl other actresses are no slouches in the jackets with unique stitching and hand- jacket. wardrobe department. rubbed details. It should come as no surprise “The L “I love the show and I was intrigued Word” has spawned its very own fashion, by the concept of a collection inspired jewelry and accessories brand; the pro- by the characters,” said Sam Ben- ducers of the series have taken great care Avraham, owner of Atrium. “The women to underscore the beauty of the cast, dress- of ‘The L Word’ convey such a strong ing the actresses in slinky monochromatic clothing. sense of style and each has her own unique and very In fact, the series has been recognized as much for wearable look.” its fashion as its groundbreaking subject matter. There’s Ben-Avraham said he expects to do a minimum of a whole section on the Web site featuring an auction of $50,000 in sales in the two-month period. “The design- authentic clothing worn by the cast, character ward- ers have committed to quick replenishment, so I’m op- robes listing the items and brands characters wore timistic that we can do more,” he added. with prices and locations where they are sold. There is Showtime wants to do more as well. “We’re going to take even an L Word shop that hawks handbags, belt buckles a look at how this does,” said Laura Palmer, vice president emblazoned with the letter L, T-shirts, tanks and briefs of distributor marketing. “We’re prepared to have more with messages such as “Lez” and “I Love Bette.” items and more stuff. The great thing about ‘The L Word’ Several of the designers participating in brand is that it does go to many different categories.” POMPEO, KIKUCHI PHOTOS BY GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE; MIRREN BY HAL HOROWITZ/WIREIMAGE; WINSLET BY EAMONN MCCORMACK/WIREIMAGE; STR HAL HOROWITZ/WIREIMAGE; WINSLET BY GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE; MIRREN BY PHOTOS BY KIKUCHI POMPEO, 12 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Pelosi Outlines Plan to Push Retailers Poised for Markdowns For Screening All Containers Heading Into Holiday Home Stretch Continued from page one By Arthur Zaczkiewicz Loeb said he expects retailers to apparel and textiles into the move from planned markdowns to slash- country last year, claiming it and Jeanine Poggi ing prices during unplanned sales after could cripple international com- this weekend. “And I don’t think gift- merce at a time when just-to- ith two weekends left before card redemption after the holidays will the-minute deliveries at retail WChristmas, retailers face warmer make up for those sales,” he added. are increasingly common. Even weather and consumers are waiting for “Retailers want to be lean and clean the slightest delay in clearing the “big sale.” Some retailers already by the end of the season with as little Customs in a foreign port could have pulled the trigger on their promo- liability as possible,” Loeb said, adding interrupt a retailer’s or vendor’s tions as a way to drive traffi c, which will that troubled segments this holiday in- entire supply chain. likely bolster top-line growth. clude outerwear and apparel. Stronger- The Democrats had suggest- But will the markdowns be at the ex- performing categories so far have been ed such a measure earlier, but pense of lower gross margins? Some an- accessories, shoes, handbags and jew- after intensive lobbying by the alysts don’t think so. The promotions are elry, Loeb said. industry against the proposal, it well executed and planned, especially Eric Beder, a Brean Murray Carrett was scaled back. at the specialty retailers. Still, there is & Co. analyst, said in a research note “We don’t object to the objec- a lot of inventory in the market, and at earlier this week that he is “pleasantly tive of moving toward 100 per- least one analyst believes planned sales surprised at the margin cohesion and in- cent screening, but that can’t be could turn into unplanned markdowns ventory levels we are seeing from most done overnight,” said Erik Autor, Nancy Pelosi as early as the beginning of next week. of our [coverage] universe. This coming vice president and international at a press In the department store sector, Dana week should be crucial, as virtually all trade counsel at the National conference on Telsey, chief research offi cer at Telsey the product ‘bets’ have been made.” Retail Federation. “It has got to Thursday. Advisory Group, said the sales are well Beder’s top picks for holiday win- be done in a measured way that ERNST/LANDOV REUTERS/JONATHAN PHOTO BY planned and in line with expectations. ners in the specialty sector include allows time to get the system and President Bush signed this fall. They argued She was in the midst of companies such as Bebe procedures in place. If you mandate 100 that the estimated 5 percent scanning rate a national retail check Stores, Guess, Blue percent screening prematurely, all it is of more than 11 million containers entering Thursday and was Holdings, Caché and going to do is have an adverse impact on the country annually was dangerously low. pleased with what she True Religion. our commerce and our economy.” Republicans resisted full inspection at for- saw in the sector. A quick retail check The importers said that while they eign ports, maintaining it was not practical. “The department over the past week and wanted to get off on the right foot with the The issue of port security was in the store retailers are in a look at national print new House speaker, their concerns about spotlight all year as the aborted Dubai Ports check, relative to what advertising Thursday 100 percent screening outweighed efforts World deal triggered a national debate and we’ve seen in the past,” showed heavy promo- to build a cooperative relationship. generated broader port security initiatives Telsey said. “Retailers tions across retail chan- “To be honest, this is too important,” said that preoccupied Capitol Hill through the were very aggressive nels. Julia Hughes, senior vice president at the summer and fall. Dubai Ports World, owned on Black Friday, then it Bloomingdale’s was U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & by the government of the United Arab slowed down, and now offering 25 percent off Apparel. “We want to work with Speaker Emirates, sought to operate terminals in six we’re in the second a selection of cashmere Pelosi and we look forward to that, but when major U.S. ports, but abandoned its efforts phase of the holiday cold-weather accesso- we talk about this issue, the impact is too and ultimately sold its properties. season. We definitely ries, while a separate broad to say we are going to hold back.” The controversy this spring highlighted are seeing markdowns ad in Thursday’s news- “I’m of the belief that every container the vulnerability of ports to terrorist attacks to move the merchan- papers touting 20 to 60 that gets shipped to this country is not a and set off a fl urry of legislative proposals dise. A lot of these percent off furs, outer- terrorist threat,” said Allen Thompson, addressing the possibility of a radioactive markdowns are planned wear, sportswear and vice president for supply chain security for bomb or weapon of mass destruction being markdowns built into other items during a sale the Retail Industry Leaders Association, smuggled into the U.S. in a cargo container. retailers’ margins.” beginning Thursday and which counts Wal-Mart among its members. The House and Senate passed the fi nal Telsey said stores ending Tuesday. In an- Promotions were light to nonexistent “The challenge is fi guring out which ones bill in October, providing billions of dol- are going through a other ad, Macy’s promot- at Abercrombie & Fitch, American pose a threat and which ones don’t.” lars in funding to strengthen the nation’s transition right now. ed 50 percent off, “plus Eagle Outfi tters and J. Crew. Thompson added, “At the end of the day, defenses against a potential terrorist at- “Inventory levels are an extra 15 percent” on when you get down to it, this is about risk tack on cargo containers entering the U.S. lean,” she explained. natural/dyed fur-trimmed management and how to ensure safely that or at major ports at home and abroad. “You’re seeing a transition to new in- or mink coats from its Fur Vault. legitimate cargo is allowed to come to this The legislation provides money for a ventory levels with new ‘transitionwear’ Lord & Taylor’s ad pitched 50 percent country while dangerous cargo is checked. pilot program at three foreign ports to test between winter and spring. That is be- off cold-weather accessories, children’s That balance has to be maintained.” and establish a screening system for radia- ginning to come into stores now. There’s outerwear, men’s outerwear and wom- Pelosi said the fi rst order of business tion within one year and also requires the more frequent fl ows of new product, en’s down and fake-fur coats. Cashmere for the House after it passed a rules pack- 22 major U.S. ports to establish procedures which helps to maintain full prices.” sweaters, sleepwear and cubic zirconia age would be to pass the recommendations and technology to examine all containers Telsey said the promotions scream jewelry also were reduced. of the 9/11 Commission. for radiation by the end of next year. sales but are not any steeper than prior In specialty store retail checks “We will do them one better on port Retailers and wholesalers were largely seasons. Still, there are retailers that by Brean Murray Carrett & Co. and security, where we have even tougher supportive of the October bill, but launched are accelerating their markdowns. Jennifer Black & Associates as well as proposals to screen 100 percent of the a lobbying campaign against attempts by In the specialty channel, promo- phone calls to stores made by WWD, containers long before they reach U.S. Democrats to require 100 percent screen- tional activity also is planned. “There promotions were light to nonexistent at shores,” Pelosi said at a news conference ing in foreign ports of all inbound U.S. cargo are a lot of sales going on right now, but Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle announcing her agenda for the congressio- containers, arguing technologies need to much of it is planned promotions in- Outfi tters and J. Crew. nal session that begins Jan. 4. undergo more testing and fi ne-tuning before stead of reactionary price slashing. You A sales associate at an Abercrombie Democrats, who sought to make port se- such a goal could be set. may look at retailers such as Coldwater & Fitch store in the Park Meadows Mall, curity an election-year issue, failed in their Pelosi’s comments on Thursday re- Creek, Victoria’s Secret, Express and Littleton, Colo., said there was just the efforts this year to include such a strong mea- newed their concerns after they thought others and say, ‘They look very promo- “usual clearance rack of merchandise” sure in legislation that Congress passed and they had put the issue to rest. tional.’ But the sales are [scheduled], that included T-shirts, long-sleeved but- and I would say retailers [in the spe- ton-downs and hoodies. The Freehold cialty sector] are right on plan,” said Raceway store, in Freehold, N.J., Mark Montagna, analyst at CL King & echoed a similar take on a lack of sales. Associates. At Hollister, fl eece was on sale for Dash Inks License for Pro-Keds Line Montagna said some retailers, such as $29.50 from $49, and camis were as low Gap, are not faring as well as others this as $9.99. American Eagle offered aerie HIP-HOP MOGUL DAMON DASH IS ADDING ANOTHER ELEMENT TO HIS EXPAND- holiday, and they could be forced into underwear, fi ve for $20. At Ann Taylor, ing empire. making steep, unplanned markdowns. outerwear was 25 percent off, while se- Dash, chief executive offi cer of Damon Dash Enterprises, has entered into a licens- “It depends on [who] you are talking lect cashmere items were buy one, get ing agreement with Stride Rite Corp. to produce and distribute men’s, women’s and about. It is company-specifi c,” he said. the second for 50 percent off. children’s apparel under the Pro-Keds brand. Dash plans to launch the line to the trade The analyst said the planned mark- Gap stores were deep in sales, with at the MAGIC show in Las Vegas in February. It will be in stores next summer. downs in the market right now are easy window promotions touting “up to 40 “I always knew this would happen. The clothes are always supposed to match the to spot because of the signage. “You’re percent off.” sneakers, so it was just a matter of time,” Dash said. “The apparel will have the same not seeing any handwritten, ‘50 percent A sales associate at the Gap at fresh ideas that have made Pro-Keds sneakers so successful in the past couple of years.” off ’ signs right now,” he said. But that Roosevelt Field Mall said, “There is stuff Consumers can eventually expect two lines, one more urban in feeling and set at a could change. everywhere in the store for $20 or less.” lower price point and the other more “retro and higher priced,” he said. Walter Loeb, analyst at Loeb On Thursday afternoon, Sears Dash, who has licensed the Pro-Keds brand from Stride Rite since 2004, was awarded Associates, said retailers are dealing Holdings Corp. said in a statement that the Crystal Shoe Award from the Two-Ten Footwear Foundation earlier this month. The with several hurdles, such as warmer- it was extending store hours “and [offer- award was given in tribute to his work on the revitalization of the brand, which moved than-normal temperatures across most ing] special deals this weekend to help from an $8 million business to a $22 million business in the past year. Pro-Keds fi rst of the U.S. as well as a weaker housing shoppers beat the last-minute rush the launched in 1949 by Keds as an athletic footwear line primarily aimed at basketball. market, “which is making people feel weekend before Christmas.” Besides Pro-Keds, Damon Dash Enterprises also owns Rachel Roy, State Property, less rich,” he said. This consumer sen- Some of the specials include 30 per- Armadale vodka and Dash’s new men’s line, CEO Collection. timent could negatively impact depart- cent reductions on consumer electron- — Julee Greenberg ment stores. ics, tools and home goods. WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 13 WWD.COM The Pacifi c Northwest: East Side Boutiques Take Niche Approach Luxury’s Next Frontier By Sharon Edelson By David Moin NEW YORK — There’s a lot to be said for doing only one thing and doing it well. CAN GUCCI PLAY IN THE LAND Most retailers are proud of the breadth and depth of their offer- of grunge? ings, but two new stores on the Upper East Side are making a strong The Pacifi c Northwest’s fi rst case for having a singular vision. luxury enclave, called Luxury Roberta Roller Rabbit, at 1019 Lexington Avenue, is devoted to ap- Village, will strive to make it parel and linens made from Indian block print fabrics designed by the happen. It’s a 140,000-square- store’s owner, Roberta Freymann. She said the 1,200-square-foot unit foot project opening in two will pull in $1.5 million to $2 phases in 2009 and 2010 within million in sales in the fi rst year. The Bellevue Collection. At House of Mai at 27 East Luring luxury to the region 67th Street near Madison has been like pulling teeth. At Avenue, Suzan Azuma sells The Bellevue Collection, which nothing but cashmere — sweat- is in the city of Bellevue, Wash., ers, scarves and blankets — in eight miles east of Seattle on the a compact 700-square-foot store other side of Lake Washington, she estimates will have fi rst- Tiffany, Coach, Brooks Brothers year sales of $1.5 million. and Nordstrom are about the Both women are actively extent of the upscale side of the involved in designing, sourc- offering. ing and manufacturing their “Fifteen years ago, when we A rendering of Luxury Village’s streetscape. products. Freymann does research first [were] talking to luxury at libraries and museums before brands, many thought anything According to Freeman, the cen- talks with brands and packing creating the delicate fl oral and ani- west of Chicago and north of San ter is tracking at $650 in sales plans for creating the Luxury mal patterns for her block prints. On Francisco was the Wild West,” per square foot this year, and Village which he described as a buying trip for her original epon- said Kemper Freeman Jr., owner has been averaging 10 percent an elegant streetscape of high- ymous store on East 70th Street, of The Bellevue Collection and increases for the last fi ve years. end shops along both sides of she wandered into a block print chairman and chief executive of In roughly the same time frame, Bellevue Way, with wide, 12- to studio in Jaipur in northern India Kemper Development. “Or they Freeman has noticed shoppers 16-foot tree-lined sidewalks and fell in love with the craft. Now would look at us as if we were leaning toward sweaters and and views of the lake and Mt. she spends six weeks a year work- from Alaska.” sport jackets, instead of tie-dyed Rainier. Rents for the new ing with the woman who runs the How times have changed. shirts and shorts. “Dressing up luxury tenants will range from studio. “She revived the technique The luxury market continues is a new thing. We are seeing a $85 to $110 a foot, but Freeman of block printing,” Freymann said. to be strong, brands in the sec- big change,” he said. stressed: “Every deal we make “She works exclusively for me now. tor aggressively seek growth op- The Bellevue Collection con- is unique. Different categories She pins pieces of cloth to 10-foot- portunities and The Bellevue sists of the Bellevue Square and different locations have dif- long tables and does her printing. Center has emerged as one of anchor retail center, two mixed- ferent rates.” The fabric gets dried in the sun.” the nation’s most productive use projects and the upcoming The Luxury Village project If perfectionism is a trait of the reso- shopping complexes. It’s partly Luxury Village. Being family- calls for about 60 stores, a fi ve- lute, then Freymann and Azuma share due to the region’s prosperity, owned and highly productive, star boutique hotel, new res- it. Scrutinizing a jade sweater, Azuma Top: Roberta Roller Rabbit’s block fueled by the rise of Microsoft, the center is often compared taurants and “a crescent court” said: “I’ve been trying to get the right fi t prints. Above: At House of Mai, Starbucks, Nordstrom, Costco with Bal Harbour Shops in with valet dropoff for the hotel on a turtleneck for a year. This is my cashmere is the name of the game. and a rebound at Boeing. It’s Miami, owned by the Whitmans, and retail. Phase one will trans- fi fth try. I’m very meticulous.” also due to Freeman and his and South Coast Plaza in Costa form a parking deck into 75,000 Azuma is just as discriminating when it comes to choosing family, who focus entirely on Mesa, Calif., owned by the square feet for luxury, and phase the yarn for her sweaters. In the nine years since she started her operating and upgrading The Segerstrom family. But the main two will convert a Safeway and company, she’s become an expert on goats, visiting farms through- Bellevue Collection. “My whole difference, historically, has been Bartell drugstore into 65,000 out Asia. Long-haired white alpas and liaonings raised in Inner world is right here,” the 65-year- the lack of luxury. The center square feet of luxury retail. Mongolia produce hair that is the ne plus ultra of cashmere. old Freeman said, noting The opened in 1946 with the 16- “We’re taking a middle ground From a simple cashmere T-shirt, Mai’s offerings have grown to Bellevue Collection is his sole shop Bellevue Square, and has approach where it’s very im- include V-neck sweaters ($295), cardigans ($338), polos ($348), vests project, that he lives in a condo grown to more than 250 shops portant that the luxury brands ($318), robes ($950), drawstring pants ($395) and camisoles ($225). on the site and that, if there was and a total of 1.6 million square are visible and their personali- Some of the more popular styles are available in as many as 30 colors. a mortuary on site, “that’s where feet of retail, attracting 16 mil- ties are apparent, but the other Prices refl ect the rarity of the fi ber, Azuma said. “It’s costly because they’d put me when I die.” lion people annually. There are side of the story is that buildings we’re using fi ne-gauge cashmere yarn — that’s only 3 percent of the Sources say anchors in the also 18 restaurants, two hotels, should hold together to form a goat,” she added. “The white, long hair is the most expensive.” mall do well. Nordstrom’s a 16-screen cinema, a billiards luxury block,” said Kimberly Last year, House of Mai produced 30,000 units. The company’s 270,000-square-foot unit report- hall and one million square Sheppard, partner in Gabellini wholesale business — Mai is sold at Barneys New York, Fred Segal edly generates $170 to $180 mil- feet of offi ce space, in which Sheppard Associates, which de- in Los Angeles and Isetan and Mitsukoshi in Japan — is expected to lion in annual sales; Macy’s, with Eddie Bauer headquarters and signing the master plan. “It will reach $3 million next year. 220,000 square feet, posts $80 Microsoft’s northwest marketing be more village-like, of a pedes- Everything at Roberta Roller Rabbit is from India, including the million to $90 million, and the division will move. trian scale, so you won’t be shop- furniture: Victorian-style chairs remade for a maharaja with silver- 190,000-square-foot J.C. Penney Last week, Freeman was ping outside along a giant super painted wood and blue-patterned fabric; hand-painted dressers and yields $30 million to $40 million. in New York initiating leasing block.” armoires from Rajastan hold bedsheets, quilts and tablecloths with block print designs. There are tunics, $50; pajama sets, $95; printed robes, $85, and pareos, $70, for adults, and baby tunics, $40, and pa- jamas, $50, for children. Freymann painted the store a shade she calls “nacho cheese.” Pringle Sets Site for N.Y. Flagship The border of blue lotus fl owers near the ceiling was stenciled by her sister. By Samantha Conti Fang. “We’re fortunate to have some very capable Before she became a retailer, Freymann designed knitwear for individuals at the new company. I have a lot of re- Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. “We did very well until LONDON — Pringle is making inroads in the U.S. spect for, and confi dence in, Mr. Matsutani; he is we hit a point where we weren’t getting paid by anyone,” she said. and Japan, and plans fl agships in both countries. a true leader.” Freymann’s three stores — a location in East Hampton that opened Douglas Fang, the brand’s new chief executive Fang said Pringle was not seeing the sort of last summer sells hand-knit sweaters, beaded belts and chunky jew- offi cer, told WWD the company fi nally had found slowdown other fashion and luxury labels were elry — are a reaction to the sameness that affl icts many retailers. a site for its fi rst Manhattan fl agship. He is about experiencing in Japan. “We are in growth mode — “These are things that aren’t mass produced,” she said. “I believe to sign the deal, and plans to open the store next and, don’t forget, we’re smaller than a lot of other in being special.” year. Pringle has been looking for the past few brands in the market. Japan still makes up a small years for a store location in Manhattan, and al- percentage of [Pringle’s] sales,” he said. WELL SUITED: Graphic gurus ready has a showroom there. Pringle has a 2,000-square-foot, stand-alone Michael Amzalag and Mathias The company is also ramping up its presence store in Ayoyama that carries both Collection and Fashion Scoop Augustyniak of Paris-based M/M in Japan, and has set up a new company, Pringle Red Label. In 2008, the company plans to open a are dabbling in men’s wear Japan K.K., to deal with demand in that mar- separate fl agship that will carry the Collection for Japanese concept store ket. Fang said the company had named Shigeo label exclusively. The label also is sold at depart- Adelaide. The pair already created the visual identity for the Tokyo boutique, Matsutani, 51, ceo of the new venture. ment stores and specialty shops in Japan. which opened in July. “We thought it would be fun to do a play on the three- Matsutani, previously executive director of Fang said the Japanese were embracing piece suit,” said Augustyniak, noting inspiration comes from costumes they Sann Freres S.A., Pringle’s former distributor in Pringle’s Scottish heritage, and the iconic ar- recently designed for a stage version of Marguerite Duras’ “Hiroshima Mon Japan, will report directly to Fang. gyle weave and lion logo. “We’ve also found the Amour.” As the former art directors of French Vogue, as well as the artistic “Japan has been an important market for us for Japanese customers are very interested in this eye behind spring ad campaigns such as Stella McCartney and Blumarine, the past fi ve years. We’ve done exceptionally well new era of Pringle — and they love playing with the pair has had its fair share of exposure to fashion.

there and we’re ready to step up our efforts,” said color,” he said. ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM

Rider of the WWII Storm t seemed like a rural idyll. Mireille Marokvia’s sheep and goat had found a piece with one’s annoying neighbors. Iof land where they liked to graze; it was, however, some distance from her house, Marokvia noticed that some of them and they refused to go there alone. To summon her, the goat would first knock on the hadn’t even bothered to make any door of the house. If that didn’t work, it would deliberately go to stand on some high provision for shelter space for their ground that clearly could be seen from the second story of the dwelling, where its servants. mistress spent most of her time. The goat would then proceed to make its hair stand After the war, the on end and slowly puff itself up. Worried the animal was ill, Marokvia would come Marokvias emigrated to out at once. The ploy worked every time. The goat would then deflate itself, and the America. He was The cover trio would go off to the pasture, accompanied by Marokvia’s orange cat. almost 50 and she of the fi rst Marokvia’s house was in Bergheim, in an isolated part of the German was over 40, so volume of countryside, surrounded by forest. But, animal antics aside, it wasn’t all a Thoreau- their prospects the author’s like idyll. World War II was raging, and she had moved there because her town, might have memoirs and Stuttgart, was under heavy bombardment. She had to share her house with the appeared a painting of family of a Nazi offi cer who was away at the front. And a local Nazi offi cial had poor. In a her by her taken an interest in her, fi nding her presence there suspicious and insisting she startling husband. report to him weekly. piece of “Sins of the Innocent” (Unbridled Books) is Marokvia’s memoir of how she good fortune, spent World War II. Marokvia was French; she had married a German man, however, Artur Marokvia, referred to as Abel in the book, whom she met in Paris. He she picked the hated Germany and particularly the Nazis, and she credits him with making her names of several understand how horrible their regime was. “He was very intelligent, and he saw magazines from the things that other people didn’t,” she says. “But many people in Germany knew what telephone directory. Hitler was. They were scared. There was a lot of fear; you did not dare not follow Her husband went the rules. Some were interested, and some gained. They knew how to seduce the to Esquire, asked people, and many people believed. We had tried to punish Germany too much after for work, and when the fi rst World War. Not only the Germans were guilty for the fi rst World War. That he did an excellent really is what provoked Hitler.” job in two days, the The couple had only gone to Germany to take care of his mother. They planned magazine offered to stay just six months; then World War II broke out. The memoir is an account of him a job. Their luck how they survived the war in a country so inimical to both of them. The book, which held; he worked received an excellent review in The New York Times, alternates funny or absurd consistently as an incidents with disturbing, even frightening ones. At one point, the couple attended illustrator after that a dinner party given by Abel’s boss, the head of a Stuttgart advertising agency. One and she wrote a total After the D-Day invasion, of the guests was a Nazi offi cial, who began ranting and raving about Jews. Abel was of fi ve children’s books the Bergheim, Germany, so incensed he called Hitler and the man idiots, and proceeded to slap him. As the that he illustrated. police chief feeds his couple were thrown out of the party, the offi cial muttered threats after them. They In addition, she snack to Marokvia’s goat. were frightened for months afterward, but nothing happened because the Nazi was translated costumes involved in an intraparty power struggle of his own and was in no position to exact from sketches to revenge. patterns for the Abel, a gifted artist, used his talents to avoid being conscripted into the army; theatrical costumer Brooks. When they retired, they took a trip to Mexico; they liked he joined a group called the Operation Todt. Among many other functions, it sent it so much they stayed there for 13 years. Later, they returned to the U.S. to the state artists to areas newly occupied by the Germans to make propaganda pictures they found most like that country, New Mexico. Mireille Marokvia, now widowed, — fl ower-bearing Russian peasants welcoming the Nazis, for instance. At times, still lives there at the age of 98. he was sent to places he had long wanted to visit, such as Italy. After having been Surprisingly, her husband, who had many other good qualities, didn’t think she reprimanded for making sketches that his employers didn’t want — of such things should write. He always told her, “You’ll never make it.” She initially destroyed her as Russian beggars or soldiers looting (“Our soldiers don’t loot!”) — Abel managed diaries during wartime when she heard the Gestapo were sniffi ng around. Later, she to create uplifting images that satisfi ed their needs and kept his “inappropriate” wrote a memoir and burned it. It is only in the past few years that she has written renderings for himself. “Immortelles: Memoir of a Will-o’-the-Wisp,” published in 1996, about growing up Meanwhile, to keep from having to go to work in a factory, Marokvia fi rst learned during World War I, and, of course, “Sins of the Innocent.” weaving and then took on some translations from German to French. She did She says that she enjoys spending time alone, in her small house, which has something slightly subversive with some of them: She changed the tall, perfectly a beautiful walled garden with trees. “I’m a troglodyte,” she says. While her aquiline Aryan heroes of the romances she was working on to men more to the publisher claims she’s at work on the third volume of her memoirs, Marokvia French taste. They were shorter, darker, sometimes with curly hair or even fl eshy denies it. She is writing, she says, about something very specifi c, a time as a young noses. child when her fi rst toy, a small clown, was taken away from her in the middle of Like most authors of wartime memoirs, Marokvia writes frequently about food the night. With her characteristically apt use of English, she says of the incident: — or rather, the lack of it. Even in a restaurant one could get very little to eat. “I’m still miffed about it.” One hazard of being bombed was having to share the shelter night after night — Lorna Koski

away in a separate room, the photos are from the book bulb, is sordid, but the painted rays going up to heaven “Heaven to Hell.” To lure visitors in, one of the store and a smiling angelic cherub in one corner give the LaChapelle’s Berlin windows has been designed by LaChapelle, showing scene a transcendent glory. Lepore, dripping with smudged makeup, as a trashy “Is it Mary the mother of God, or is it Mary the PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID LACHAPELLE SWEPT INTO transsexual version of Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe hooker from Third Avenue with her junkie boyfriend?” Berlin on a wave of New York glamour, complete silk-screen prints. asked LaChapelle, looking at the picture. “It doesn’t with entourage, for two exhibits of his work in the Although known primarily for his magazine work, actually matter. Either way, the passing of life is a German capital. LaChapelle is going back to his roots with exhibi- sacred moment. I wanted to pay tribute to the small Accompanied by transsexual muse and model tions: He fi rst showed his pictures at a New York deaths, and say that just because someone is not de- Amanda Lepore, and Heatherette designer Richie gallery in 1984, which led to a job at Warhol’s maga- picted in history doesn’t make it any less profound.” Rich, LaChapelle spent a week at the beginning of zine, Interview. “Suddenly, I found myself working for — Damien McGuinness December here, signing copies of his latest book, magazines,” he remembered. “But I “Heaven to Hell,” and opening a show at the Helmut have always felt that fashion photo- Newton Foundation. Titled “Men, War & Peace,” the graphs are never supposed to have three-in-one exhibition features 40 of LaChapelle’s any content, or depth, or subtext. pictures, the work of war photographer James In fact, editors get angry when they Nachtwey and male portraits by the late Helmut do. But when you look at pictures at Newton. The show runs until May 20. a gallery or a museum, you are sup- “Newton has always been a photography god to me,” posed to look for content — which explained LaChapelle. “I was telling June [Newton] is great for me because I have al- the other day that when I was growing up, I used to rip ways had that anyway. I have al- out Helmut Newton’s Yves Saint Laurent ads out of W ways used the medium of fashion and plaster them all over my bedroom.” photography to express whatever LaChapelle believes it is partly thanks to Newton my own personal obsessions at the that fashion photography is now taken seriously as an time have been.” art form. “The crossover happened with Newton and And certainly LaChapelle [Robert] Mapplethorpe,” he said. “There was a time couldn’t be accused of shying when you were either an artist or a commercial pho- away from the big themes: Climate tographer. But then something interesting happened, change, consumerism, instant grati- and over the last few years we have started seeing lots fi cation and conspicuous consump- of museum shows by fashion photographers.” tion are all there — even death. Parallel to the exhibition at the Helmut Newton In the book’s title piece, Courtney Foundation, a mini exhibition of eight photographs of Love is portrayed in a reenactment David LaChapelle and his LaChapelle’s work is being displayed in Puma’s con- of “The Pieta.” The setting, a squal- version of Courtney Love. cept store in the central Mitte district here. Tucked id hotel room lit by a naked light- LACHAPELLE PHOTO BY FOTO-DI-MATTI.COM LACHAPELLE PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 15 WWD.COM AmericasMart Apparel Shifts Rocawear Adds Two Execs By Julee Greenberg Dates for Upcoming Markets NEW YORK — Charles Soriano and Michael Isaacman have joined Rocawear in two key executive posts. By Georgia Lee lies on weekends. Soriano was named to the new post of executive vice presi- Last month, Lawton Hall, senior vice president dent of retail at the $800 million hip-hop-inspired clothing ATLANTA — AmericasMart Apparel is changing of apparel at AmericasMart, told WWD, “We haven’t brand. He will develop a plan to open freestanding Rocawear three of its 2007 market dates from the traditional heard buyers wanting to be home on weekends.’’ boutiques, slated for 2008. In addition, he will create a plat- Thursday to Sunday to Sunday to Wednesday. The He added that AmericasMart was “not obstinate to form for international expansion and oversee global retail move combines the men’s shows with women’s and change,’’ although show dates were diffi cult to change merchandising to ensure brand consistency for Rocawear and children’s apparel and accessories markets. because of logistics. He also said AmericasMart would its licensees. The revised dates affect the April, June and conduct more surveys and research on the date issue. Most recently, Soriano was vice president of retail at Sean October markets next year, which are now set for Some AmericasMart exhibitors and buyers said John, where he launched the company-owned retail division. April 15 to 18, June 10 to 13 and Oct. 14 to 17. The the change would pose problems, especially with the Before that, he was vice president of retail for Kate Spade. Feb. 1 to 5 and Aug. 23 to 27 show dates are un- overlapping Dallas market in October. Many show in After several years in banking and fi nancial services, Soriano changed. The new October dates overlap the rival both markets, or don’t have duplicate samples, forc- began his career in fashion at Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. in FashionCenterDallas show, an event that shares ing them to either split the sample line or choose 1993, holding various posts in the retail group. many of the same exhibitors and some buyers with between the two shows. Isaacman has been named executive vice president of de- AmericasMart. The February and August shows in Frank Vaccarelli of the Vaccarelli & Associates sign and merchandising. He manages the day-to-day develop- Atlanta begin the day after Dallas ends. showroom at AmericasMart, said the date changes ment of Rocawear’s men’s collections, headed by creative di- AmericasMart offi cials declined requests for com- would make it diffi cult to hire part-time showroom rector George Robles. ment. The market said in a press release the move help and models, since his part-time weekend em- Most recently, Isaacman was senior vice president of de- was “designed to satisfy the evolving needs of retail- ployees have weekday jobs. He said AmericasMart sign and merchandising for Polo Jeans Co. Prior to that, he ers who say they want and need a single-source mar- said in an e-mail that dates were being changed be- was vice president of men’s merchandising at Tommy Hilfi ger. ket experience.’’ cause of a lack of available hotel space. He began his career in the executive training program at R.H. The decision came months after “The regional marts need to stop this fi ghting Macy & Co. FashionCenterDallas at the Dallas Market Center over dates with Dallas…and realize the real prob- Isaacman succeeds Frances Wong, who left the company to announced it was switching to the Sunday-to- lem is how will the regional marts compete with pursue other opportunities. Wednesday format in response to surveys showing Coterie, Magic, Project and the 70 other shows out Both Soriano and Isaacman report to the Rocawear board, that buyers wanted to be in stores or with their fami- there?” he said. including Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter, Alex Bize and Norton Cher.

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PUBLIC RELATIONS EXECUTIVE 57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft. COUTURE BRIDAL LABEL Soho Penthouse live / work skylights Great Opportunity ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Bryant Park Duplex - All Great Deals 3-5 yrs. exp. in bridal mkt. Have rela- INDEPENDENT SALES REP Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Leading prestige beauty co. tionships w/ bridal salons & dept. Luxury Cosmeceuticals skin care com- stores. Build new business & grow pany seeks a professional and seasoned ENGINEERING MANAGER seeks Executive Director existing accts. Some travel req./No sales representative to open & develop Showrooms & Lofts for busy, multi-brand U.S. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS multi-line reps. Great comm. package. new accounts. Fax resume: 212.249.1482 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Seeking exp’d. Swimwear or Intimate Apparel Engineer to analyze, plan, organize, public relations team. Must Email resume: [email protected] or email: [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 direct and control all aspects of product and plant engineering and costing. Posi- be strategic, creative team tion based in Los Angeles. Must have 5 years exp., knowledge of textiles, cut & player able to lead a PR sew ops., piecework incentives, garment construction, patterns, and general sew team on a domestic level Need F/T Salesperson techniques. Must be proficient in EXCEL, ACS and GSD cert. a+. for three supreme designer For Swimwear Co. NY Office Fax or E-mail your cover sheet, resume and salary history to: brands. Minimum 10 years’ Send resume to 516-433-8450 310-225-2958 or [email protected] experience required. We offer a great work 1411 BROADWAY environment, compensation Available Showroom to Share Design Director - (REF # 061017): and benefits package. Call Ronnie ovrsee apparel design dept; supervise Production Assistant 516-433-1144 or 516-967-0361 line creation; knowledge of fashion Please email resume t o: trends, market & design to production; Seeking highly motivated person to confer w/upper mgmt for final line; work in our production department. [email protected] Use s/w Illustrator, Photoshop, Excel. Computer literate w/ good follow-up Req: BA Fashion or any Design & 5 and communication skills. Knowledge ASSISTANT SALES yrs progssve post-BA exp in job or Se- of garment and fabric preferred. Email nior Fashion Dsngr/Fash Dsgnr OR resume to: [email protected] MANAGER MA Fashion or any Design & 2 yrs exp Receptionist/ Prestigious luxury jewelry company in job or Snr Fash Dsngr/Fash Dsgnr, seeking a qualified assistant sales SR. SALES EXECUTIVE Front Desk Coordinators Well connected, outstanding, Sales Exec. Res via 1st class mail: Sunny Chung, Come work in the hottest, fastest manager for their flagship boutique Wicked Fashions, 222 Bridge Plaza located on Madison Avenue in NYC. in search of serious opportunity. Strong growing salon in New York City! with mid tier and mass. You need to have South, Fort Lee, NJ 07024 Rita Hazan Salon has moved to 5th Luxury goods experience a must. Please fax resume to: (212) 439-4222 vision, finances & a desire to add to your Ave! With this tremendous expansion, business growth. CALL: 267-322-0060 Design PRODUCTION we are looking for long term Recep- Attention: Ms. J. Simonian PATTERNS, SAMPLES, TECH ASSISTANT tionist /Front Desk Coordinators. The INFANT/TODDLER perfect candidate should be friendly, PRODUCTIONS DESIGNER 50-65K TRIM BUYER honest & hard working. The ability to All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Leading newborn and infantwear Co. Production Assistant - Trim Buyer needed multi-task in a fast paced environment Call Sherry 212-719-0622. seeking designer with experience in for Maggy London Dress based in New is a must. If you are looking to make a infant & toddler fashion for boys & girls. York. This is a fast paced environment change or start your career, the Rita Strong Illustrator & Photoshop skills & requires someone who is aggressive Hazan Salon is the place for you! Can- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, required. Please email resume to: & has an eagerness to learn the methods didates must have computer exp, 1 [email protected] in which we operate. Responsibilities year of customer svc. exp. preferred. PRODUCTIONS include but are not limited to: trim Full service shop to the trade. Full Time applicants only pls. Email: buying & coordination, receiving & [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Graphic Designer sending samples to & from overseas. Top notch New York based watch co. Will liaison w/ design & head pattern seeks graphic designer for product and maker to set up fitting schedules, or- packaging. Must have great computer ganize & file fit comments, order supplies Retail Analyst skills and at least 1 year exp. Position for pattern room, coordinate all paper Designer Jewelry Co. seeks detail oriented available immediately. Benefits. work & copies of cost sheets needed for individual to compile & report sales data. Please fax resumes to 951-699-5586 fitting, review all cutting tickets, plus 2-3 years min. exp. w/Dept. Stores req’d. other duties as directed by the production Excel a must. E-mail resume & salary Marketing Manager mgr. TECH & PRIVATE LABEL EXP A request: [email protected] Multi-Cultural Cosmetics Seeking highly motivated team player PLUS TO ASSIST PROD MGR W/ VAR- w/ 3-5 yrs. exp. preferably in beauty IOUS TECH & GARMENT RELATED Brand for Sale TASKS. Dress exp. a plus. (BI-LINGUAL Exp. in cosmetics market for 8 years. industry. Responsibilities include brand management and development. Daily -ENGLISH-CANTONESE-MANDARIN- SAMPLEMAKER Previous dist. in Sephora & Nordstrom. PREFERRED; not mandatory) Benefits Highly skilled sewer w/ exp in women’s Great PR, Hands-on research. communication w/ clients. Initiate & follow-thru on new product introduc- plus 401K. designer ready-to-wear / evening. GREAT PRICE! Call 917-902-5534 Please respond w/ salary req’s to Call Gregg 212.965.8070 x 20 or E-mail: [email protected] tions & promotional marketing pro- grams. Fax resume to 212-317-9056. E-mail: [email protected] or fax resume to 212.965.8071 ^ef[_d WcW]Wp_d[ F>EJE8OJ>EC7I?7DD799ED;

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