Snow White Jean Paul Gaultier Clearly Hopes White Will Be All Right
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VALENTINO SPA TAPS NEW CEO/2 KATE MOSS FRAGRANCE?/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • December 15, 2006 • $2.00 Beauty Snow White Jean Paul Gaultier clearly hopes white will be all right. The avant-garde designer is aiming to create a new bestseller with his men’s fragrance, Fleur du Male, which will launch in March in an all-white bottle. The fragrance will fi rst be sold in the designer’s boutiques, and in April will roll out to broader distribution. For more, see page 4. Pelosi’s Drive for Ports: Industry Foresees Chaos In 100% Screening Plan By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — The Democrats and Nancy Pelosi have not even taken control of the House yet and already they’ve upset retailers and apparel importers. In outlining her party’s agenda for its first 100 hours in office, House Speaker-elect Pelosi said she would bring to a vote early legislation requiring 100 percent screening of all cargo containers at foreign ports. This measure is aimed at stepping up the U.S. fight against terrorism. This prompted an immediate outcry from retailers and apparel vendors that imported $89.2 billion worth of See Pelosi, Page12 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15, 2006 WWD.COM Moss Said in Scent Deal WWDFRIDAY SOON IT MIGHT BE EAU DE KATE. Beauty Kate Moss is said to have signed a fragrance licensing deal with Coty Inc., the beauty fi rm that already boasts a star-studded roster of celebrity fragrance brands. GENERAL Details of the Moss fragrance could not be learned, nor could Incoming House Speaker Nancy Pelosi spurred industry anger, saying the timing of any introduction. A Coty spokeswoman declined to 1 she will push a bill requiring full screening of cargo containers. comment. Stefano Sassi, most recently ceo of Marzotto, has been named ceo of But given Moss’ combination of fame and notoriety, the fragrance 2 sister fi rm Valentino Fashion Group and the fashion house Valentino. will probably continue Coty’s string of celebrity hits, which include scents for Gwen Stefani, Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker and The nation’s drugstores are in the midst of a major repositioning that David and Victoria Beckham. And a deal with the model makes sense 7 could have a long-term impact on the beauty department. for Coty since she already is the face of the company’s makeup brand With two weekends left before Christmas, retailers are facing unusually Rimmel. 12 warmer weather and consumers who are waiting for the big sale. Coty takes credit for reviving the celebrity fragrance model in recent years, which has helped propel it to become a $2.9 billion beauty company. EYE Costumed revelers at Marc Jacobs’ annual holiday bash, which had a 9 Venetian carnival theme this year, clearly took the theme to heart. Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Valentino Fashion Group Names CEO [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- By Amanda Kaiser this year and in 2007. be talking to the press about it. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. In other news, the house of Favrin said he had spent VOLUME 192, NO. 126. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three MILAN — Valentino Fashion Valentino is busy preparing for the past fi ve months interview- additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. Group SpA has tapped an inside a 45th anniversary show and cel- ing potential ceo candidates, PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: man as its new chief executive ebration in Rome — not Paris, but Sassi won him over. Favrin S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David officer. as originally planned. The date praised Sassi’s reorganization Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- Valentino’s board has named is not yet fi nal, but it is likely to of Marzotto’s struggling tex- dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Stefano Sassi, most recently be in early July. The festivities tile business. He also empha- Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. chief executive of textile group have prompted rampant specu- sized the importance of Sassi’s 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable and sister company Marzotto lation that 74-year-old Valentino fashion experience. Sassi was Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS SpA, as ceo of both Valentino Garavani is preparing to retire. chief operating offi cer at Group CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Fashion Group and its subsid- On Thursday, Marzotto reiter- Cerruti for five years before DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four iary fashion house Valentino ated his statement that Garavani joining Marzotto. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. SpA. He effectively replaces hasn’t given any indication he Sassi was tight-lipped at Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Michele Norsa, although the plans to step down. He said re- the press conference about his First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, two men’s titles are not identi- lations with the designer were plans for Valentino, explaining and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions cal. Norsa resigned in July and “excellent” and that Valentino he wants to study the company and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make subsequently joined Salvatore was always strengthening its de- and its employees before outlin- our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Ferragamo Italia SpA as ceo. sign team. ing strategic objectives. interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Unlike Norsa, Sassi also will “I have ideas in my head and “I don’t think someone can us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. be head of Valentino FG, the I’ll communicate them when face a [new] challenge like this WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- 1.73 billion euro ($2.29 billion) the time is right,” Marzotto said if you don’t already have a few ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, company that owns Valentino when pressed to articulate the ideas in your head, but outlin- OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED SpA, a majority stake in Hugo most likely post-Garavani sce- ing the way forward and strate- Boss AG and men’s wear brand nario for the brand. gies requires you to do very de- Lebole, and holds licens- There isn’t just speculation tailed analysis and research,” ing deals for M Missoni and chez Valentino on the design Sassi said. Marlboro Classics. Norsa was front. There have been recur- Sassi is considered to be an unhappy with his lower-ranking ring rumors and press reports intelligent and strategic execu- Quote of the Week titles at Valentino, one of the suggesting the company is on tive with a strong understand- reasons he decided to leave, ac- the block. Favrin addressed the ing of the global market. One cording to a well-placed source. issue at the press conference, but source likened him to Robert The customer’s mind is still on Valentino FG chairman his cryptic language managed to Polet, president and ceo of “ Antonio Favrin held the ceo title raise even more questions about Gucci Group, who came from personal acquisition as opposed to at the multibrand company until the future of the company. food giant Unilever. While Polet now. Favrin will retain his post When asked whether the may not have joined Gucci with gift-giving, although the strength in as chairman.