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For 2005 15 Great Trips Win a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid

For 2005 15 Great Trips Win a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid

’s best 5 200 summer drıvesYOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO DRIVING THE WORLD’S GREATEST COUNTRY

All new drives for 2005 15 great trips Win a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid

Handy road trip check list toyota.ca

A Message from the President of Toyota Canada Inc. and the Chair of the Tourism Commission 268 Horsepower. There’s a big, beautiful country out there with over 9,980,000 square kilometres of spectacular sights, sounds, smells, tastes and thrills waiting to sweep you off your feet. The adventure begins right at the end of your driveway.

Toyota Canada Inc. and the Canadian Tourism Commission (CTC), together with Imperial Oil (Esso), Hudson’s Bay Company (Hbc), Royal Bank of Canada (RBC), Expedia, Hilton Family of Hotels, V8-like performance. Delta Hotels, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts and National Car Rental are pleased to present Get Going Canada 2005.

Building on the enormous success of last year’s program, this year’s initiative is bigger, broader and even more exciting with more reasons to get out and “Drive the World’s Greatest Country”.

It all starts with this fact and fun-filled travel guide. We have carefully selected 15 of the country’s most breathtaking drives, complete with pit stops, photo opportunities, travel tips, maps Exceptional fuel economy. and other essential tourist information.

Also back by popular demand is the exciting Get Going Canada Contest. Be sure to enter for your chance to win an all-new 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid and other fabulous prizes. For details, please visit www.getgoingcanada.ca.

So this summer, take two days, two weeks or two months and fill them with wonders you’ll never forget. Grab your keys (and your spirit of adventure) and head out to explore the natural beauty Super Ultra-Low Emission Vehicle. and incredible diversity of this great nation of ours.

Get Going Canada: drive the World’s Greatest Country and enjoy the view!

With the most advanced engine we’ve ever designed, the 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid doesn’t just hug the road, it hugs the planet.

Ken Tomikawa Charles Lapointe, P.C. Introducing the 2006 Highlander Hybrid. President, Toyota Canada Inc. Chair, Canadian Tourism Commission Available this summer. I’m bored I’m hungry I’m lost How to Get Going I’m thirsty

Do-it-yourself Adventure

Are you ready for a road trip? Once you’ve read this year’s Get Going Canada Travel Guide we think you will be. But don’t pack the car just yet. Some of the best fun of the trip can be from the planning stage before you even start your engine.

First, contact the Tourism bureau listed at the end of each drive and request any materials that could help you plan and enrich your adventure. Make sure to get detailed road maps and plot your route, deciding on your overnight locations. Do a little online surfing and see what others have to say about the places and attractions you’re planning on seeing. Check out your local bookstore for background on the things that most interest you: trail or wildlife guides, accommodation and restaurant listings, nautical maps Drinks. Snacks. or regional history. Volumes could be written about any of the great excursions featured in this year’s edition of Get Going Magazines. Maps. Canada and a heap of fascinating details, attractions and locations were reluctantly saved for another day. Get Going Canada isn’t meant to be your sole travel With over 270 On the Run stores at Esso stations guide companion. Instead, we hope these tours will act across Canada, you can easily satisfy everyone’s as a springboard, compelling you to find out more and cravings wherever your road trip takes you. make these trips uniquely your own. We’ve got the stuff you need to keep going. How do we know? At Esso, we’re drivers too.

On the Run is a trademark of Exxon Mobil Corporation or one of its subsidiaries. Imperial Oil, licensee. Esso is a trademark of Imperial Oil Limited. Imperial Oil, licensee. XC3094 BestDrives 2/11/05 1:21 PM Page 1

Ready…Set… Get Going

Zen and the Art Pre-Trip Check List of Family Road Trips Vehicle maintenance recent and • The key to a happy holiday is to up-to-date relax, pace yourself and stay safe. Tire pressure checked • Start travel before dawn when traffic Oil checked is light and children are sleeping. Extra washer fluid • Never leave kids or pets in a parked or idling car. First aid kit and emergency supplies What do Canada and inspected, missing items replaced • Keep things that melt out of the ® Spare tire present and in working order back seat. RBC Rewards have in common? Portable air compressor • Kids under 12 years old should not travel in the front seat. Maps / Guide books / Itinerary / Contact numbers Great choice! Cell phone / recharger New batteries for flashlights / From the Cabot Trail portable electronics to the Dempster Snacks (easily accessible) Highway, Canada Partially frozen drinks has some spectacular drives. And the Buckle up: babies under 9 kg in a (easily accessible) • RBC Rewards program has what you need rear facing car seat (never in front of Items most often used packed an airbag), 9 to 18 kg in a forward on top to make it better. facing tethered restraint, kids under Children’s luggage packed on top 8 years or 36 kg in a booster, You can redeem your RBC Rewards points everyone else with seat belts. Extra bag for dirty clothes / laundry detergent for everything from car rentals to • Boosters save lives: kids using only seat belts are 3.5 times more Moist towelettes / paper towels / accommodation to camping equipment. likely to be significantly injured garbage bag And just about everything in between. in a car crash than those using a Camera Just go to www.rbcrewards.com/go to see certified booster. CDs / DVDs, music, movies, what you can get and how to redeem points. • Even if you can drive “straight talking books through”, kids generally can’t — allow Pillows / blankets Don’t have an RBC Royal Bank® Visa* card time for children to run around. Portable car games / cards that earns RBC Rewards points? Visit • Car-sick kids should not read, play hand-held games or watch movies — Kids’ individual backpacks www.rbcrewards.com/go or call 1-800-ROYAL® 1-1 they need to look outside the car to New inexpensive toys / crafts / to apply for one of our many cards. And the horizon. books / comics discover for yourself what a great choice it is.

® Registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. * Registered trademark of Visa International Service Association. Used under license. 9 Canada On and Off the Road GET GOING Fifteen self-directed excursions show off some of the best that Canada has to offer. Staying “Home” for the summer never looked so good.

10 44 Whales, Birds La Vérendrye Trail CANADA and Bergs Tour & Labrador 48 14 Riel to Cape Breton Trail Highlands and Sea & WIN! 52 18 Mountain Peaks Driving the and Glaciers Golf Trail 56 22 Adventure By Wonders of Land and By Sea the World Trail 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid 60 26 Klondike-Kluane The Kingdom Loop Drive the world’s greatest country and enter of the Saguenay Yukon Territory for the chance to win and be one of the first Québec to drive a ground-breaking Hybrid SUV: 64 the 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid. 31 Big River, Vive la Nature Big Country The 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid. Coming to Toyota Québec Northwest Territories dealers this summer. Enter on-line and you could win other great prizes too! 34 68 For details click on getgoingcanada.ca Georgian Bay The Kitikmeot Adventure Expedition Nunavut

40 73 Loyalist Landmarks Calendar of Events For entry and complete contest rules visit getgoingcanada.ca. Contest starts May 9, 2005 and closes September 5, 2005. Chances to win depend on total number of entries into the contest. No purchase necessary. Some restrictions may apply. Open Ontario to all residents of Canada with a valid driver’s license. One entry per person. Approximate Retail Value of the 2006 Highlander Hybrid is $43,000.00 (excluding freight, delivery and applicable taxes). Vehicle may not be exactly as shown. 11

In Newfoundland and Labrador, cod are known quite simply as Fish, and it was the Fish that brought Europeans to this first outpost in North America more than 500 years ago. Generations of hardy souls tamed Whales, the wild beauty and riches of this land — an independent country until 1949. Even today our newest province still retains a unique and separate identity. Outsiders are “from upalong”. Local folk may be hangashores, Birds and livyers, baymen, or townies, and place names are equally lyrical: Heart’s Delight, Nameless Cove and Little Seldom. The windswept province is jam-packed with a history and ecology as engaging as the poetry-laced dialect that knits her people together as tightly as the yarn in a Bergs Tour fisherman’s wet woolen sweater.

Newfoundland & Labrador Begin in St. John’s, then head out Puffins and Pageants along such scenic drives as the Irish Near Bay Bulls, the Witless Bay Loop, the Cape Shore, the Kittiwake Ecological Reserve is home to 2.5 Coast, sidetracking here and there for million seabirds and North America’s history and whale and iceberg-spotting. largest Atlantic Puffin colony. Take a Then it’s north on the Viking Trail up boat tour around this reserve — and the rugged west coast, doubling back keep watching for whales; there are later to end in Corner Brook, anywhere plenty here, too. from 10 days to two weeks later. Now head west to the Discovery Trail A Whale of a City for 500 years of history combined In the venerable capital city St. John’s, with nature. In Trinity, much of the climb to Signal Hill National Historic old town retains its 1800s heritage Site and, if you time it right, enjoy character and period-garbed guides the colourful military grace the streets drills staged by and stage local cadets. the Trinity Stroll streets Pageant, a lined with comedic town bright “salt- walking tour, box” row several times houses and weekly. At grand Victorian Bonavista, learn mansions, visit the about Genoese fishing village of Quidi Vidi St. John’s explorer John Cabot’s (pronounced Kitty Viddy), voyage from England to and drop by the Johnson Geo Centre. Newfoundland in 1497. Drop by the Cape Bonavista Chances are you’ll see whales from Provincial Historic Site, the many points along the coast in the late monument to Cabot near spring and summer — some 22 whale Bonavista Museum, species frequent Newfoundland and and the replica Labrador’s waters. Then you’re off to of Cabot’s ship National Historic Site for a “The Matthew” souvenir photo at North America’s most and Matthew easterly point. Interpretation Centre.

Humpback Whale and Iceberg, Newfoundland & Labrador 12 13

You’ll want to stop constantly to snap recreate daily life in smoky sod huts, Basque Whalers In Labrador, sample partridgeberry pictures of the countless fishing built as the Vikings would have made and Partridgeberry Tea jams, drinks, and pastries. Explore the villages speckling the coastline. them 1,000 years ago. Nearby, in the Before or after L’Anse aux Meadows, Red Bay National Historic Site, where Eventually you’ll reach Terra Nova replica Viking village of Norstead, join spend a few days in wild southern you’ll learn about another, little-known National Park’s Marine Interpretation costumed interpreters in the dim light Labrador, crossing the Strait of Belle group of European visitors to these Centre, where boats of the Viking-style Isle from the island of Newfoundland shores — 16th century Basque whalers, tour the park’s Chieftain’s Hall via the car- Apollo. See if you can and see the world’s sole, preserved sheltered bays and listen to tell the difference between full-size early Basque whaling boat, a fragile and rugged haunting bergs, smaller “growlers”, and even wooden “chalupa”. At the Labrador shores, and Norse tales. smaller “bergy bits”. Straits Museum near Point Amour, hiking trails Step aboard browse through more recent local make fine the full-scale tools, weapons, and household goods, vantage points for replica of the and climb ’s tallest spying ospreys, eagles, Viking ship Snorri and lighthouse at lynx and moose. learn how the Vikings mastered the Provincial Historic Site. North Atlantic. The Earth’s Mantle Exposed Then retrace your route back to the From Gambo, birthplace of Joey island and on to Corner Brook or back to Smallwood (Newfoundland’s first St. John’s, to head home carrying a list Premier who brought the province into of spots you’ve saved for your next road Confederation), travellers with an extra trip in Newfoundland and Labrador. day or two can take side trips to Boyd’s Cove Beothuk Interpretation Centre, For more information contact: Long Point Lighthouse, and Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism Museum. And whale and berg-watching www.gov.nl.ca/tourism boat tours go right into “Iceberg Alley” or call 1-800-563-6353 from here.

Still ahead: the UNESCO World Heritage Site Gros Morne National Park. Here, there are craggy mountains, deep inland fjords, hiking trails, and the Tablelands — a 600-metre-high plateau of exposed mantle rock disgorged millennia ago from the earth’s interior.

Vikings Ahoy! North on the Viking Trail, the Port au Choix National Historic Site offers 3,000-year-old artifacts of the Maritime Archaic Indians. L’Anse aux Meadows National (and UNESCO World Heritage) Historic Site honours the first Europeans to leave a record of their visit to this continent: the Vikings. You’ll see amazing archaeological finds in the Visitor Centre, while on the grounds, guides

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 15

You’re in a school concert hall and onstage a thin-sprite of a fiddler and a piper possessed are working the all-age audience into a frenzy. An impromptu dance breaks out and the musicians encourage you Cape Breton to join in — so you do — wondering when you last laughed this much. Music holds strong on Cape Breton Island, where five days is just a start to exploring this magical land of ceilidhs (kay-lees), friendly folk Highlands and stunning scenery. Drive, bike or hike the rugged and rolling coast. , and sit solitary with the sun on a secluded beach. Stay at charming inns, and experience ancient cultures of the Scots, Acadians and Sea and Mi’kmaq as you travel the island. Stunning Beauty in Gaelic, music, dance and Scottish Nova Scotia Crossing the to Cape arts, and Englishtown for a ferry ride Breton from mainland Nova Scotia and a museum dedicated to the late is like a gateway to a new world. Cape Breton giant, Angus MacAskill. Baddeck, a resort-like village with Jump on the ferry and you’re on marina and fine shops midway up your way back to the Cabot Trail. this isle, is a popular base. Telephone inventor Further north, there’s Alexander Graham spectacular Cape Bell made his Smokey, which summer home ascends 365 here. Today, metres and is you’ll find capped with a museum a provincial dedicated to park and Bell and his life’s stunning ocean work. Play a round at views. Ingonish is the Bell Bay Golf Club, or a resort community with look for bald eagles over the Bras d’Or and the Highlands Links, Lakes, an almost land-locked inlet one of Canada’s ‘must-play’ courses. of the sea, at Cape Breton’s centre. Carry on along the Cabot Trail, but With more than 225 kilometres of take time to pull off into lovely, coastline, it serves up secluded bays, isolated fishing villages such as inlets and home for birds and wildlife. Neil’s Harbour and Dingwall, Bay St. Lawrence, and Meat Cove to camp You must tour the Cabot Trail. Blessed on a cliff overlooking the ocean. with cliffs and coves, the staggering scenery graces North America’s Camp the National Park arguably most impressive road trip. It’s Don’t miss the majesty of the a wonder how engineers carved this 950-square-kilometre Cape Breton coastal highway, seemingly from rock Highlands National Park of face, curving up cliffs then twisting Canada. Hike the Sky down, stunning sea views guaranteed. Line Trail (you’ll feel Area side trips include the Gaelic like you’re College of Celtic Arts and Crafts at walking in South Gut St. Ann’s with its courses the sky),

Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia 16 17 look for moose, camp and enjoy this at Les Trois Pignons for displays of Let’s Ceilidh Loop back north through Baddeck to amazing park, running from the Gulf Cheticamp-style hooked rugs and From Cheticamp, the coastal Ceilidh Sydney. Nova Scotia’s second largest of Saint Lawrence to the Atlantic tapestries. In ‘the Margarees’, revel Trail south leads to Glenville, home city has plenty to keep you occupied Ocean. The coastal wilderness has four in a barn dance with top musical of North America’s only single-malt and is a good place to overnight. mountains, 26 hiking trails, picnic talent at the Normaway Inn, a tranquil whiskey distillery. It’s worth a visit to Nearby, open a portal to 1744 New parks and beaches. On the west side, 1920s lodge, fish or the the Glenora Distillery, where you’ll . The Fortress of Louisbourg catch an awe-inspiring whale watching Margaree, a Canadian Heritage River, find a pub, inn, restaurant, gift shop National Historic Site is North tour from Pleasant Bay. There’s a and hike jaw-dropping scenery. and economuseum. While some may America’s largest historical recreation. Whale Interpretive Centre too. see this rural area as a quieter, On the way back to Sydney, take gentler Cape Breton, be a side trip to Glace Bay to A church spire towers over colourful advised — music shakes the see the Marconi National Cheticamp with its warm Acadian floors! Ask about popular Historic Site and the joie-de-vivre. Stroll the harbour square dances in West Miners’ Museum where boardwalk and visit Dr. Elizabeth Mabou, Glencoe and you might catch the LeFort Gallery and Museum Brook Village as well world-renowned Men as numerous festivals. of the Deeps — the Hike Mabou Highlands only choir where where Gaelic and singing ability (and it is English signs mark the fabulous) is secondary. way. Buy lobster fresh Members must have off the boats along this worked the mines. South- western shore, and swim from west of Sydney, Rita MacNeil one of the warm sand beaches. fans won’t want to miss dropping by Rita’s Tea Room in Big Pond.

Celebrate the Road to the Isles It’s time to head back to mainland Nova Scotia along the Canso Causeway, the link between Cape Breton and the mainland. Ceilidhs, concerts, dances and fireworks will mark the Causeway’s 50th Anniversary, August 7 to 14. You’ll want to be there for the people, the party and the panorama.

For more information contact: Nova Scotia Department of Tourism, Culture and Heritage www.novascotia.com or call 1-800-565-0000

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 19

This is a land apart, of sandstone cliffs, long stretches of white, pink and red sand beaches, cozy villages nestled in a pastoral countryside and seemingly endless potato fields that yield more spuds than any other Driving The province in Canada. For its modest size, PEI also yields more golf courses than pretty much anywhere else. The tiny, crescent-shaped island is the proverbial pot of golfing-gold at the end of the Confederation Golf Trail rainbow. Only 224 kilometres long, PEI is packed with spectacular golf where each new fairway opens out onto unforgettable vistas. Prince Edward Island Let the Games Begin with a heavily forested layout requiring The island’s gateway to golf is the the use of every club in the bag. On 13-kilometre-long Confederation Bridge the way to Mill River, plan a stop that spans the at the huge PEI Potato Museum at and links mainland New Brunswick at O’Leary where you can learn everything to the south coast of there is to know about island spuds

Confederation Bridge PEI. Here, from the town of and sample “tater” snacks Borden-Carleton, motoring west you can on site. The northwest district also be hitting drives and making putts at offers four nine-hole courses including the Summerside Golf and Country Club local favourite, the new St. Felix Golf in less than 30 minutes. Summerside and Country Club, in a picturesque itself is a charming harbour town domain of red sandstone cliffs and providing your first taste of PEI’s coastal . Exploring the Celtic heritage, down home hospitality nooks and crannies of the area, you and fresh seafood cuisine. Take time can stop at restaurants and sample from the links to visit The College of seaweed pie or visit the historic site Piping and Celtic Performing Arts, a near Tignish where the region’s eight vibrant Summerside venue where daily founding families landed in 1799. performances of bagpiping and Highland dancing are a summer-long treat. Sandy Beaches and Awesome Golf Continuing west, take the scenic North Leaving the west and heading along Cape Coastal Drive or veer inland the north coast’s Blue Heron Drive, this over roads that meander through is a stretch of spectacular beaches, PEI’s quaint small towns and pretty sand dunes and some of the finest golf countryside to the northwest region courses on the island. Here, also, is where the challenging Mill River Golf the resort haven of Cavendish, setting Course at Woodstock provides golfers for author Lucy Maud Montgomery’s

Mill River Golf Course, Prince Edward Island 20 21 world-famous Birthplace of Confederation Among them is Fox Meadow, an its cultural cornucopia. Whatever golf books about a spirited, pig-tailed The golf trail continues around to the 18-hole masterpiece with views of route is followed, take time to enjoy a orphan girl. Anne aficionados can east coast where sensational sister harbour. In addition to a steaming lobster dinner at one of the visit the Anne of Green Gables courses, Brudenell River and host of special events to mark its 150th island’s rural churches or a lobster boil Museum and Montgomery’s Dundarave, offer world- anniversary this year, the city offers on a beach. Have some foot-stompin’ birthplace; however, a class layouts. Brudenell lively Irish pubs, seafood restaurants, fun at an island Ceilidh and be sure golfer’s primary interest is also the home of the a waterfront entertainment district to have a feed of the island’s world will be a cluster of Canadian Golf Academy, and the Confederation Centre of the famous Malpeque oysters. Wherever eight premier courses a teaching facility that including the classic SCORE ranks No. 1 in Green Gables, Glasgow Canada. Here, you can Hills and The Eagles book a lesson with Anne Glenn, with layouts that Chouinard, coach to have helped rank PEI PEI native and LPGA star, Canada’s top golf destination Lorie Kane. according to SCORE magazine, Eagles Glenn Golf Course the country’s most respected golf journal. Following the east coast around the Arts where you can watch you travel across PEI, island’s southern tip to Charlottetown, performances of Anne of Green Gables you can be sure that great golf and a Minutes south of Cavendish, the birthplace of Confederation, there’s a The Musical TM during the summer-long charming island character are par for newest star on the island’s golf horizon nest of five courses just minutes from Charlottetown Festival. the course. is Andersons Creek, a one-year-old city centre. championship track with a genius Beyond the 18th Hole For more information contact: layout carved from a landscape of The island can feasibly be toured in Tourism PEI rolling hills and woodlands. two or three days, but five days to a www.peiplay.com/golf week provides a more fulfilling time or call 1-888-PEI-PLAY While the island is dotted with frame in which to absorb and explore exceptional courses, the Golf PEI standard-bearer for PEI golf www.golfpei.ca is the renowned Links at or call 1-866-GOLF-PEI Crowbush Cove on the Kings Byway. Located on the sand-fringed north coast near Mount Stewart, this is a must- play trophy track just beyond the dunes where many of its 18 holes offer stunning views of the ocean. Further east along the coast, the best place to exchange a golf club for a fishing pole is North Lake. Here, some of the world’s biggest fish (including Bluefin Tuna weighing more than 1,000 lb.) have been reeled in.

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 23

Ah. New Brunswick. Where else can you dig your toes into the tidal beach at The Hopewell Rocks, and six hours later ocean kayak along the very same stretch? Here you can stroll one of Canada’s top seaside resort Wonders towns one day, then be hip-deep in the famed Miramichi River the next, heeding the enchanting siren call of a fly-fishing expedition. This East Coast gem beckons with Natural Wonders set against vibrant cityscapes; of the you’ll find Acadian spirit, feisty festivals, magnificent whales, and the breathtaking beauty of Provincial and National parks. Pack a picnic, grab that special someone, and follow a local tradition — kiss each time you World Trail cross one of the province’s 64 covered . Fundy Fun and City Nights Sea, Sun and Sand New Brunswick Start your five-day tour at provincial Parlee Beach Provincial Park, with icon, The Hopewell Rocks, where glistening sandy beaches and warm Fundy’s dramatic , the world’s salt water, is a popular gathering spot. highest, have carved four-storey Further up the Acadian coast sits sculptures from the sea. Visitors from nature’s paradise, Kouchibouguac around the world come to marvel at the National Park of Canada. Swim, bike, constant motion of the sea, watching camp and birdwatch. The park is home

Irving Eco-Centre, La Dune de

in awe as 200 billion tonnes of to the second largest tern colony in swirling sea water make a twice-daily North America, and its shifting sand sojourn into the narrow bay. Nearby, the shelters the endangered piping plover. forest, shoreline and rugged terrain of Boat out to see colonies of harbour and Fundy National Park of Canada offer a grey seals. Just north of Bouctouche, plenitude of interpretive services, as well amble along the 2 kilometre boardwalk as a trail system, golf course and heated that protects the sensitive eco-system of saltwater pool, making it a great family the sand dunes. The Irving Eco-Centre, destination for day use or camping. La Dune de Bouctouche helps explain the importance of these giant dunes — Return to Moncton, a bilingual, booming some of the last in North America. city. There’s top-notch Atlantic Canadian talent Fridays at the Moncton Market, The further north of Moncton you or enjoy a show at McSweeney’s explore in New Brunswick, the broader Dinner Theatre. the vein of Acadian culture you’ll find.

The Hopewell Rocks, Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick 24 25

The colourful characters of the Riverfront Ramblings Canada’s Seaside Resort, with its kilted bellhops. In Canada’s fictitious Acadian fishing village, Le Further west along Route 2, enjoy a and Its Chocolate Town “Chocolate Town” of St. Stephen, Pays de la Sagouine in Bouctouche, stroll through the riverfront capital From the quintessential seaside resort straddling the American border, the offer up a joyous celebration of of Fredericton. Soak up some of the town of St. Andrews, board a zodiac, confectionary Ganong dynasty has that special brand of francophone city’s rich history, arts and culture, tall ship or traditional made many tasty charm. A serpentine wooden bridge not to mention sample the fare from boat to see whales firsts since the family leads from the mainland the surprising number of playing in the Bay of started making “village” to the L’isle excellent international Fundy. St. Andrews is sweets in the 1870s, aux Puces, where restaurants here. also popular for sea including the very you’ll find colourful Start in the Historic kayaking, charming first nickel chocolate homes perched Garrison District, shops, inns, and the nutbar. Drop by on stilts. Stay for a watch the changing horticultural haven Kingsbrae Garden. the Chocolate Museum in the former performance, or dine on of the guard, and explore You’ll also find the classic resort factory for the facts, then slip next typical Acadian fare like poutine the museums and shops. Nearby experience at The Fairmont Algonquin, door to Ganong’s Chocolatier and pick rapée, (grated and mashed potatoes Kings Landing Historical Settlement up some hand-dipped delights. wrapped around fresh pork). On your invites visitors to step back into 19th way back to Moncton, stop in at century New Brunswick, with the Trail Wonders and ‘lobster capital’ . Captain Eric picturesque St. John River at their Port City Adventure LeBlanc shows you how to haul traps, side. Now, heading south you’re in for Saint John, Canada’s oldest incorporated cook, shell and eat lobster, before a treat. city, lies east on Route 1. Walking or providing a feed for all aboard one of taking the trolley are both great ways his Croisières Shediac Bay Cruises. to see this port city with its beautiful old buildings and bustling historic City Market. Take a water taxi to the Reversing Falls and jet boat through the rapids. Stroll Harbour Passage along the waterfront, and visit Imperial Theatre and the uptown historic area.

Tumbling waterfalls, beaches and great views of nature’s splendour are part of the Fundy Trail, a multi-use corridor along the clifftops of Fundy’s coast, accessible by car, foot, bike or kayak. The trail opens up previously inaccessible coastal areas and begins near St. Martins, a village blessed with sea caves, beaches and covered bridges.

With so many Wonders, New Brunswick is bound to lure you back for a repeat visit or extended stay.

For more information contact: New Brunswick Department of Tourism and Parks www.tourismnbcanada.com or call 1-800-561-0123

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 27

When Jacques Cartier sailed up the rivière Saguenay, he found the land so vast that he called it The Kingdom. Close to 300 years later, settlers were drawn to test their fortunes with farming and lumber here. The Kingdom One name particularly evokes the pioneer spirit of rural Québec: Maria Chapdelaine. The novel of a Québécoise girl’s coming of age on the north shore of Lac Saint-Jean conjures a vital picture of land, forest of the and inland sea. Today you’ll find Maria’s legacy in a region perfect for modern adventurers.

The Saguenay-Lac Saint-Jean area section of the 256-kilometre Véloroute packs lakes, rivers, forests, mountains, des Bleuets cycling trail — named for Saguenay plains and the Saguenay fjord in an the abundance of blueberries in the area about the size of Belgium. The fields and bogs of the area. The trail Québec high cliffs and deep fjord of will take you both around the rivière Saguenay the lake, and to run from Lac historic areas Saint-Jean to around Alma the mouth that were of the Saint founded in Lawrence the heyday River. when the Isle-Maligne Heading south hydroelectric along the Saint dam, Alcan smelter Lawrence, the traveller Parc national de la Jacques-Cartier and Price Brothers meets up with the paper mill were built rolling hills and pretty villages of the in the mid-1920s. The new L’Odyssée Charlevoix, an inspiration to artists des Bâtisseurs Park focuses on water’s for more than a century. Whether it’s role in the region’s development cycling around Lac Saint-Jean, cruising and includes a variety of exhibits, a the rivière Saguenay or hiking in one multimedia presentation, hiking trails of the parks within the Charlevoix and a dam. region, there is an abundance of soft adventure opportunities. Pulp and Paper Ghost Town Circling west, near Desbiens, the History and a River spectacular rivière Métabetchouane Runs Through It offers good and fishing Just 40 kilometres from Québec City, along the former trade route of the you’ll find the wilderness of Parc Montagnais Indians, Jesuits and national de la Jacques-Cartier, named trappers. Explore the two-kilometre for the river that runs through it that has riverside hiking trail past waterfalls sections perfect for both white water and cascades to the Caverne Trou de and flat water paddling. Plenty of hiking la Fée (or Fairy’s Hole). Nearby, the trails are on hand, and the chances are Centre d’histoire et d’archéologie good you’ll spot moose or blue heron. de la Métabetchouane depicts the contact point between the First When you reach Lac Saint-Jean, begin Nations people and Europeans with your circumnavigation of the lake at a reconstructed Hudson’s Bay fur Alma — where you’ll find a charming trading post and exhibits from the

Rivière Sainte-Marguerite and Saguenay Fjord, Québec 28 29 archaeological site here. There’s also Mashteuiatsh on Lac Saint-Jean’s Maria Chapdelaine Territory The Parc national du Saguenay flanks a monument to Jesuit explorer Jean western shore is home to about 2,000 On the north shore of the lake you are the fjord with great hiking from the de Quen, the first European to reach Montagnais people and the impressive truly in Chapdelaine territory. pretty village of Sainte-Rose-du- the lake in 1647. Musée amérindien de Mashteuiatsh. The Musée Louis-Hémon Nord to the Saint Lawrence. Indigenous wildlife, such as foxes and in Péribonka pays tribute The village of Tadoussac bears, are among the 1,000 animals to the author of Maria sits where the two rivers that roam around a wild natural setting Chapdelaine and the meet; in 1535 Jacques at the Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien. surroundings that inspired Cartier was so delighted Meanwhile, humans roll by in a his most famous novel. with the beauty here, screened-in enclosure on wheels. Just east of Péribonka, he dropped anchor to Parc national de la Pointe- appreciate the view. The Taillon offers a raft of ferry crossing at Tadoussac outdoor activities including may proffer a view of one swimming, cycling, hiking and of the rivers’ famed whales, boating — plus arguably the best or the Saint Lawrence Marine beach in Lac Saint-Jean. Park has whale observation points particularly at Pointe-Noire near Baie Sainte-Catherine.

As you return toward Québec City, your voyage along the shore of the Saint Lawrence takes you past the scenic villages and amazing UNESCO Biosphere Reserve parks of the Charlevoix region. Your week exploring The Kingdom has shared inland sea and sea-bound rivers. Like Cartier, you may find yourself wanting to drop anchor for a few days more.

For more information contact: Tourisme Québec The Village historique de Val-Jalbert www.bonjourquebec.com in Chambord recreates the life of the or call 1-877-BONJOUR pulp mill that operated from 1901 1-877-266-5687 to 1927, complete with costumed interpreters, the original homes, mill, convent and general store. Your next The village sat abandoned until stop is the city of 1985, when it was restored to give Saguenay, once one of a window on the area’s pulp and ’s most important paper past. Stay in a refurbished fur trading posts. La Pulperie hotel room above the General de Chicoutimi was founded here Store, or in one of the restored more than 100 years ago and homes. Take a cable car to the supplied its products to the French, summit of the magnificent British and American markets until its Ouiatchouan waterfall, higher demise after dropping pulp prices and than Niagara. the 1929 stock market crash. In 1996 the complex was resurrected as a museum honouring the area’s heritage.

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. * Hbc Credit Card. Credit Hbc

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. line tted e do ng th �Cut alo

Eastern Townships, Québec

From the mostly rural Montérégie region just south of Montréal, through the Eastern Townships to the heart of Québec, up to Lanaudière, and on to the cradle of industry in Mauricie, you couldn’t ask for a more inviting place to spend a week. Cultural and natural wonders abound, Find everything on your list at the Zellers Bay, and Home Outfitters. Simply take a quick detour off the highway and you're bound to find us! Adventure Adventure especially for the outdoors enthusiast. or hike through marshes

with and wetland, watch for birds in the Lac Saint-Pierre archipelago. And of course, don’t forget to bring the bikes. All manner of cyclists will want to spend time here spinning on La , Québec’s most extensive Enjoy your network of cycling trails. Choose to overnight in Granby or Sherbrooke’s Cross Canada Cross Canada comfortable hotels, pamper yourself at an elegant North Hatley inn, or bond with nature while camping — and enjoy the active pastimes this countryside was made for.

Montréal’s Playground navigation. Now it’s a good place for Only minutes from downtown Montréal boaters and there’s an idyllic cycling lies a string of islands in the Saint path between Chambly and Saint- Lawrence River that Jean-sur-Richelieu. As make up the Parc you pass out of national des Iles the Montérégie de Boucherville. region, enjoy the Start at Isle many orchards Grosbois Visitors of Québec’s Centre and learn long-time apple about the more than capital, Rougemont. 20 kilometres of hiking trails, kayaking and opportunities. From Hills to History See deer flitter around the park, tour The Eastern Townships of Québec the islands by Rabaska (Voyageur snug up to the U.S. border with canoe) or island hop by cable ferry. picturesque villages and architectural heritage that feel a bit like a slice of Heading southeast, you’ll reach the New England on Canadian soil — a Chambly Canal National Historic Site reminder of its United Empire Loyalist of Canada built in 1843 to circumvent ancestry. Look for Estrian covered the rapids and allow commercial bridges and unusual barns. 32 33

Granby provides some urban buzz in The Heart of Québec As you head back toward Montréal The diversity of Québec’s many regions this predominantly rural region. In After Sherbrooke, head north west along the northern shore of Lac is a part of its heart and its history. addition to the animal kingdom to the centre of Québec and Saint-Pierre and the Saint Lawrence, You can’t hope to do it all on this at the Granby Zoo, you’ll Drummondville, where even you can reprise your commune with seven-day trip, so slow down and find the Amazoo, Québec’s the novice cyclist can nature at the Réserve écologique savour what you see. biggest heated wave pool. enjoy the relatively flat des Tourbières-de-Lanoraie where All around Granby you’ll terrain of the Circuit informative guides will introduce For more information contact: discover great cycling des traditions trails, you to a fragile eco-system and flora Tourisme Québec opportunities. The paved which meander past typically only found further north. www.bonjourquebec.com L’Estriade cycle path river side and historic This extraordinary peat bog is the or call 1-877-BONJOUR is at the centre of an architecture. Drop in to only ecological reserve in Québec 1-877-266-5687 integrated network of the Village Québécois accessible to visitors. hundreds of kilometres of d’Antan, for a traditional trails. La Granbyenne path French-Canadian meal delivers amazing views as well and a chance to step as access to Parc national de Magog back in time. la Yamaska and the Lac Boivin Nature Interpretation Centre. Serenity of Biosphere Reserve In Nicolet, a wooden footbridge Take a side trip north to the on stilts passes through woodland Bombardier headquarters in Valcourt and marshes, and brings visitors to where the Ski-Doo was invented. the edge of Lac Saint-Pierre. This The Musée J.-Armand-Bombardier environmentally rich area is now a displays the evolution of the “snowcar” UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. and features both prototypes and Snow geese stop here as they migrate manufactured snowmobiles. each spring and fall. In between the two seasons, paddlers float past the Southbound again, just outside the 103 islands that dot the lake. Don’t village of Eastman is the new Arbre be surprised to see a heron fly Aventure, where you can travel along overhead — this is the largest heron suspended footbridges high above the habitat in North America. maple forest floor, while safely clipped into safety lines. Where the Rivers Meet It’s time for a brief jaunt into the In the Orford-Magog area, cruise the Mauricie region and its main scenic Lake Memphremagog, where centre, Trois-Rivières. Sitting at the deep waters are home to the the point where the Saint mysterious “Memphré”, Québec’s Lawrence and rivière Saint- answer to the Loch Ness Monster. Maurice meet, Trois-Rivières was Throughout the summer, enjoy the initially a fur-trading centre, then classical concerts of Festival Orford. evolved into an international hub for pulp and paper. Its industrial Sherbrooke’s riverside bikeway, heritage is evident at the Centre the Réseau Cyclable des Grandes- d’exposition sur l’industrie des pâtes Fourches radiates out from the city et papiers, with its exploration of the to the quaint town of North Hatley, paper industry and just outside the where cyclists can make a “Croisière city, at the National Historic Site Les Cyclo” by pontoon ferry across Lac Forges-du-Saint-Maurice commemorating Massawippi, and then carry on to Canada’s first ironworks — and first southern border towns. industrial settlement.

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 35

Georgian Bay has been the centre of life in this neck of the woods since before the giant Kitchikewana flung a fist of rocks north creating the 30,000 Islands. Today, Georgian Bay calls out to the adventurous spirit to explore by boat, canoe, , foot and bike, as well as beneath the water with dry suit and air tank. Come wonder at rare northern ferns or the more than 40 types of wild orchids, explore a recreated 19 th century Naval Georgian Base or the sunken wreck of the 19 th century ship Arabia. The ambitious traveller could make this journey around Georgian Bay in about a week, but the voyage deserves twice that time.

Bay Natural Adventures the Corran estate entertained society At Scenic Caves Nature Adventures, mavens and politicos, today it is near Collingwood, challenge yourself populated by wildflowers and hikers with an Eco Adventure: trek along a following blazes to the . Adventure treetop boardwalk, ramble through fascinating caves and make an intense The famous Bruce Trail is part of Ontario zip line descent. Afterwards, relax at the Niagara Escarpment UNESCO one of the many all-season Blue Biosphere Reserve. Beginning Mountain resorts, get in a in Tobermory and reaching round of golf, or take in south to Queenston, the the vistas after a gondola trail gets its name from ride up to the summit. the Bruce Peninsula. Some say the most Head west to the rewarding portion of birth place of WW l the trail is the 150 and ll flying ace kilometres within Billy Bishop, in Owen the Bruce Peninsula, Sound. The Bishop including the Cape home, built in 1882, Croker Loop on the is now a museum that Neyaashiinigmiing celebrates Bishop’s or Cape Croker Indian achievements and Reserve, where you can Canadian aviation. Tom Scenic Caves Nature Adventures walk along the same Thomson also grew up path the Chippewa in the area and the Tom Thomson people have for generations. Memorial Art Gallery displays a collection of his works as well as those Thousand-year-old Cedars of his Group of Seven contemporaries. Tobermory may be the Shipwreck Capital of Canada, but the A Rocky Finger Points North surrounding mainland and island It’s hard to consider Wiarton hiking trails offer enough spectacular without thinking about its mascot views, sunsets and wildflowers and harbinger of spring, Willie the to keep the landlubber happy. groundhog, but the town has plenty Southwest of Tobermory is the Bruce of other assets. At the Spirit Rock Peninsula National Park where Conservation Area, visit the ruins of a 1,000-year-old cedars with trunks 19th century mansion atop the bluffs only a few centimetres thick cling overlooking Colpoy’s Bay. Where once tenaciously to cliff walls.

Flowerpot Island, Fathom Five National Marine Park, Ontario 36 37

Canada’s first underwater park, Bridal Veil Falls at Kagawong, or Visit Science North and take an island cottage country, or to take a Fathom Five National Marine along the breathtaking edge of incredible simulated flight through water taxi to Georgian Bay Islands Park, attracts divers of all the Niagara Escarpment on the bush in a Beaver float plane. National Park of Canada where the levels of skill to explore one the Cup and Saucer Trail. of the 22 historic wrecks. For those who prefer to do From Little Current, cross their sightseeing without the swing bridge back onto getting wet, the clear water the mainland, then north here allows some of the along the edge of Killarney wrecks to be visible from glass- Provincial Park’s forests and bottomed boat cruises. One of the white quartzite cliffs. Veer east most popular day trips is to Flowerpot at Espanola to the nickel mining Island, only accessible by boat, where centre of Canada, Sudbury. Sainte-Marie among the Hurons, Midland trails pass the famed “flowerpot” sea stacks, the lightstation, caves and rare Head south, through the sport fishing north of Beausoleil Island displays the Calypso orchids. region around French River, known to wind-swept white pines that inspired harbour the mighty muskellunge. the Group of Seven. Tobermory has plenty to At Parry Sound you can cruise offer, including dive shops, the 30,000 Islands or carry Saints and Sailors boutiques, cafes and on to Honey Harbour. A short jog west leads to Midland and restaurants. From Here you’ll find a recreated Sainte-Marie among the Tobermory, take the good jumping Hurons — the first European settlement Chi-Cheemaun Ferry off point to in Ontario. Paddle the nearby wetlands (meaning Big Canoe in of Wye Marsh Wildlife Centre, and Ojibway) to Manitoulin chances are you’ll see the beautiful Island, the world’s Trumpeter swans that were successfully largest island contained reintroduced to the marsh. From in a freshwater lake. nearby Penetanguishene you can cruise or fish the 30,000 Islands or visit a The Great Manitou, recreated 19th century British naval Spirit of the Island base at Discovery Harbour. Manitoulin’s a great place to bike, swim, sail, hike, fish, Having taken in all the spectacular watch the night sky and learn scenery, perhaps you have a some fancy dancing. For more than hankering for a little bustle. Before 40 years, Wikwemikong Unceded heading home, check out the Indian Reserve, on the eastern mini-golf, water slides and beach peninsula of Manitoulin Island has volleyball — or relax and catch celebrated native culture, drumming some rays on a stretch of sand at and dance with a Pow Wow. There the longest freshwater beach in are great resorts on Manitoulin, the world at Wasaga Beach. but book early for the August civic holiday weekend when both the “Wiki” For more information contact: Pow Wow and the big homecoming Ontario Tourism Marketing in Little Current, the “Haweaters Partnership Corp. Weekend” take place. Folk born on www.Ontariotravel.net/tours Manitoulin are affectionately known or call 1-800-ONTARIO as Haweaters, after the abundant hawberries here — there’s even hawberry ice cream. Hike to the

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. P.E.I.from 30,000 ft.

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VANCOUVER & AREA • KAMLOOPS • • EDMONTON • WINNIPEG • WINDSOR • LONDON • CAMBRIDGE NIAGARA FALLS • TORONTO & AREA • OTTAWA • GATINEAU • & AREA • CITY • SAINT JOHN Get Going Canada discount is available at participating locations across Canada. Discount will be applied at time of reser- vation. Rates will vary by car type and by location. Discount applies to time and mileage only. Taxes (including GST/VAT), Get Going Canada rate is available at participating Hilton Family hotels in Canada. For list of participating hotels, please visit other governmentally authorized or imposed surcharges, licence recoupment/air tax recovery fees, vehicle licence fees, road fee, premium location charges, concession recoupment fees, airport and airport facility fees, fuel, additional driver fee, www.hiltoncanada.com/getgoingcanada. Rates will vary by hotel and are valid until Sept. 6th, 2005. A one-night, non-refundable credit one-way rental charge or optional items are extra. Renter must meet standard age, driver and credit requirements. card deposit is required upon booking. Rate is subject to availability. Blackout dates may apply. (R) Hilton Hospitality, Inc. Blackout dates may apply. May not be combined with other discounts or promotions. Registered trademarks of National Car Rental Canada Inc. Scenic images under permission by: J.F. Bergeron, Enviro Foto. ����������������������� ����������� ������������������������� Loyalist ���������������� ��������������������������������� Landmarks �������������������������� Ontario

Fort Wellington, Ontario

The corridor between Kingston and Brockville, along the scenic Saint Lawrence and 1000 Islands, is steeped with history. The vital communities along the seaway possess a proud heritage: settled by United Empire Loyalists after the American Revolution and fiercely defended by them during the war of 1812. Today’s traveller will find an easy-going five-day journey, discovering parkland and heritage sites, enjoying restaurants, quaint bed and breakfasts, inns and summer ������������������������������������������������������������������� theatre, not to mention relaxing on a 1000 Islands cruise. ������� ������� ��� ����� ������� ������� ����� ���� ������ ������� ���� �������� ����� ���� ���� ����� ��� ������ ���� ������� ����� ���� ������ ���������� ��� Sailboats and Scones miss a visit to Fort Henry, the largest Standing on the Kingston shore of fort built west of Québec City, charged ����������������������������������������������������������������� Lake Ontario, catching a cooling to protect the entrance to the then ���� ������ ����� ��� ���� ������ ����� ����� ���� ������� ��������������� breeze on a summer’s day, enjoy new (and hugely over budget) Rideau ������� ����� ������ ��� ���� ������� ����� ������������� ��� ��� ��� ��������� the sight of colourful Canal and the Saint ������������������������������������������������������������������ sailboats dancing on Lawrence River. the waves. Sailors come Enjoy a spectacular ����������������������������� from far and wide to the Sunset Celebration or international regattas an authentic 1860s here. Take a ferry to officers’ banquet. Wolfe Island, the largest A few minutes of the 1000 Islands, outside town, in and cycle or ramble one of Kingston’s through the trails. Hop oldest homes, on a Confederation the MacLachlan Trolley Tour to get the lay of the Woodworking Museum has plenty of land, soaking up the ambiance of the hand tools plus demonstrations of classic Georgian limestone homes and pioneer crafts set against parkland ����������������������������� regency public buildings that abound and riverbank. Pick up provisions at ������������������������������� here, a testament to Kingston’s brief Canada’s oldest market behind the role as the first capital of Canada. graceful city hall, or eat at one of ������������������������������� Enjoy tea and scones in the historic Kingston’s excellent restaurants. A ��������������������������������������������������������� gardens of Bellevue House National stay in a delightful historic B&B or ������������������������ Historic Site, Sir John A. MacDonald’s inn here is one more way to keep in residence in the 1840s. And don’t touch with the city’s heritage. ������������������������������� continued ➤ ����������������������� 42 43

More than 1000 Islands George Boldt, for his wife Louise. The Great Diving monument to Crysler’s Farm, where It’s time to head east to the Gateway unfinished castle was abandoned when The waters of the 1000 Islands outnumbered British forces drove to the 1000 Islands at Gananoque. Louise died in 1904, but thanks not only draw boaters, but scuba American troops back across the river There are actually about 1,864 to restoration by the 1000 enthusiasts as well, attracted to in 1813. islands, some only tiny islets Islands Bridge Authority, you supporting little more than can see how the very rich the two requisite living vacationed a century ago. trees. Cruises of the 1000 Islands can be taken from Fort Wellington in Prescott Kingston, Rockport, Ivy was originally built in Lea or Gananoque. Don’t 1812 to protect shipping miss one of the offerings in the Saint Lawrence. from 1000 Islands Playhouse Try an atmospheric lamp-lit Upper Canada Village in Gananoque, where you can evening visit to the Fort or see first actually dock at the playhouse for the hand the small space allotted a family Kingston and Brockville in particular A Capital City evening performance. in the married quarters. by amazing visibility and hundreds If you can pull yourself away from of sunken wrecks. Divers can the lure of the Saint Lawrence, a Boats, and abound in explore the final resting cruise of the Ottawa River or Rideau the 1000 Islands, but if you do any place of ships from Canal is only an hour north. Ottawa is border hopping by water, remember the War of 1812, packed with capital attractions like the you still need to check in with U.S. or be amazed by Changing of the Guard on Parliament Customs. In fact, you’ll need to an intact three- Hill. It’s easy to spend days at world- clear customs on Heart Island mast schooner. class museums like the Museum of when you visit Boldt Castle, one Meanwhile, when Civilization, the National Gallery, or of the most popular destinations the Saint Lawrence the new Canadian War Museum. Treat on the U.S. side, and only Seaway flooded yourself to an afternoon of shopping accessible by boat. On the the riverbanks, six along the Sparks Street pedestrian Canadian side, take the villages and thousands mall and at the ByWard Market. boat to the castle from of acres of farmland Gananoque. Here you were submersed. Today Your week along the Saint Lawrence can ogle the pseudo- the advanced diver can has taken you from Canada’s first Rhineland schloss explore some of those “lost” capital to her present one, back in built at the turn of underwater towns near Long time and back and forth between the 20th century Sault. The history of these lost international borders with plenty of by self-made settlements can be found at the Lost adventure along the way. millionaire Villages Museum. For more information contact: Luckily you don’t need air tanks to Ontario Tourism Marketing visit one of the most remarkable living Partnership Corp. history sites in North America, Upper www.Ontariotravel.net/tours Canada Village, near Morrisburg. Today or call 1-800-ONTARIO about 40 relocated historic homes and buildings and costumed interpreters recreate life in the 1860s. Wander through the streets, stopping to chat with “villagers” while you wait for the stagecoach to pass. Have your picture taken in 1860s garb or enjoy a heritage style meal at the Willard Hotel. Next to the village lies the

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 45

Back in the mid-1700s, European fur traders had conquered the granite and forest wilderness north of Lake Superior and south of Hudson Bay, but other frontiers of what would be Canada remained unclaimed. Lured by tales of a western sea leading to the Pacific Ocean, Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, Sieur de La Vérendrye, assembled three sons and a nephew and began searching for that sea. Paddling the Winnipeg River, his sons reached Lake Winnipeg in 1733. Today, adventurers travelling this wild area will still find the rugged terrain that enthralled early explorers, territory now packed with wildlife sanctuaries, living history, and dozens La of fine hiking trails.

Although there are plenty of B&B’s and Allow lots of time to explore Whiteshell, resorts along the way, don’t forget to named for the megis, a white shell Vérendrye pack the camping gear, too. You’ll be sacred to the Anishinabe people. The taking Highways 15, 44, 307 and 11 Whiteshell Natural History Museum from Winnipeg to Shield Country, at Nutimik Lake offers tours then follow Highways 12 of nearby Bannock Point’s and 4 to Lake Winnipeg, sacred petroforms, stones Trail and Highway 59 back arranged on bedrock to Winnipeg. It can be in mystical shapes Manitoba a five-day drive, but by First Nations makes an easy-going people centuries ago. full week of sun- West Hawk Museum drenched discovery. documents the park’s unique geology, and Prairie and Pines the Whiteshell Fish Little more than an Hatchery and Visitor hour out of Winnipeg, Centre offers fish-flavoured fertile prairie gives way to tours and exhibits. Tee off the Whiteshell Provincial Park’s at Falcon Lake Golf Course, Precambrian Shield forests, glacier- among Canada’s top 30, cycle or scoured granite, and clear, swift rivers. hike parts of the TransCanada Trail or Just inside the park, watch wildlife Mantario (Western Canada’s longest at the Alfred Hole Goose Sanctuary Shield trail). Paddle unique spots (named after a local mink rancher who like the Caddy Lake Tunnels, blasted won a crock of whiskey by wagering through bedrock in 1877 by CP Rail. he could keep four abandoned goslings alive), then stop at the tiny Pinawa’s Powerful Past log Whiteshell Trappers Museum to Just outside Whiteshell, via Provincial discover fur-trapping history. Road 307, the Seven Sisters Falls power dam offers views of the river and At West Hawk Lake, punched deep a couple of local, much-loved lunch into the granite by a meteor one spots. Further on, in Pinawa (Calm hundred million years ago, campers Waters in Cree), the Heritage Channel can tent or, for a little luxury, check Walk and Ironwood Trail, 50-metre into a log-cabin resort near Falcon Pinawa Heritage Suspension Bridge, Lake townsite. Either way, impudent and local TransCanada Trail section pine grosbeaks and Canada jays will offer woodsy ways to work off lunch. supervise your breakfast. Outside Pinawa, the ruined Pinawa

Camping and kayaking on Manitoba’s lakes and rivers 46 47

Dam, built in the early 1900s, makes Sun, Sand... Mountain Waterslide Park, and nature En route back to Winnipeg, Lockport’s for great photos — as do majestic Great and an Inland Sea buffs head for the hiking trails around Heritage Park contains the Kenosewun Gray Owls. This is prime habitat for Moving west, Highway 11 skirts the the dunes. And of course there’s plenty Centre with its displays of four distinct Manitoba’s provincial bird. edge of Lake Winnipeg’s beaches of sailboating, windsurfing, swimming, local Aboriginal cultures, and the and campgrounds, including Traverse and just plain lazing on the beach. St. Andrew’s Locks and Dam National North on Highway 11, along the Bay, Victoria Beach, Patricia Beach, Historic Site, where you’ll find Winnipeg River, try tours of Beaconia, North Beach, Waterborne History the French lock design that eased Pine Falls’ Tembec Belair, and Albert South of the beaches, on Highway 59 navigation of the Red River. Paper Group Beach. But the and jogging across the famed Red and Manitoba renowned three River at Highway 4, Selkirk and the Lower Fort Garry National Historic Site Hydro’s Pine kilometres Marine Museum of Manitoba’s six boasts North America’s only intact Falls Generating of white sand historic ships await curious stone fur trade fort. Enjoy Station, and drop by and grassy dunes landlubbers. Early in the the scenic drive along th the Saint Georges Museum, Grand Beach at Grand Beach is king 19 century, the Scottish the River Road Heritage where French settlers’ of them all. Considered Earl of Selkirk brought Scots Parkway, dotted with artifacts date back to the late 1800s. one of the top 10 beaches in North and other hardy folk to historic homes and markers. This stretch of the river offers some America, the shallow water’s perfect colonize the area known as The simple St. Andrew’s-on- of Manitoba’s best fishing spots, right for toddlers, older kids love Thunder the Red River Settlement. the-Red Anglican Church, from the riverbanks. Scottish heritage continues western Canada’s oldest to be celebrated here in the stone church, still sports its first week of July, with the buffalo hide kneelers and Manitoba Highland Gathering’s dance, flanks St. Andrew’s Rectory National pipe and drum competitions and Historic Site of Canada. “heavy games” that include the tossing of telephone-pole-sized wooden cabers. Before you spot Winnipeg’s skyscrapers on the horizon, make a final stop at Birds Hill Provincial Park to search out rare orchids, wildflowers, and terrain sculpted by ancient glaciers. If you’re here on the July long weekend, camp out for a day or two with about 40,000 other song-loving souls at the renowned open-air Winnipeg Folk Festival. Its natural setting is the perfect finale for this roots-oriented road trip of rugged landscapes and hardy adventurers.

For more information contact: Travel Manitoba www.travelmanitoba.com or call 1-800-665-0040

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 49

The gentle hills of northern and central Saskatchewan embrace the memory of the events that unfolded here in times past. You can almost hear the echo of Métis heroes Riel and Dumont who led the battle for Riel to their own nation but were defeated at Batoche. Further north, you reach the glacial lakes and boreal forests loved by one of Canada’s famed and controversial naturalist writers, the Englishman known as Grey Owl. This Grey Owl land is steeped not just in history, but a beauty that welcomes you to experience nature first hand. Set aside a week for this time trip as you travel the routes that shaped Western Canada.

Trail Time Travel In Rosthern, the Station Arts Centre, Just north of Saskatoon, Wanuskewin once a CN railway station, features an Saskatchewan Heritage Park’s grasslands and walking art gallery, tearoom, and performing paths offer eloquent testament to arts theatre whose summer shows the rigours of early native daily revolve around Prairie themes. life. Bison once roamed this plain, and many Sweetgrass and tumbled over the cliff at Musket Smoke Opamihaw (the one who At Batoche National flies) Buffalo Jump. Historic Site, Duck Lake, and Fort Carlton, one of Archaeological finds date Western Canada’s most back 8,000 years or more historic chapters unfolded and the habitation sites, in the mid-1880s, the tipi rings, bison remains result of Western frustration and stone cairns all contribute over land appropriation. to our understanding of what life Métis leaders at the small was like before European contact. farming settlement of Batoche tried Here too you can experience the to have their grievances addressed, colour and rhythm of the Wanuskewin but failed — and resorted to armed International Dance Troupe, as resistance. Today, the site’s Interpretive talented dancers share their history Centre, church, rectory, and graveyard and culture through the language of offer testament to those events. traditional Northern Plains dance. The Duck Lake Regional Interpretive At the much more recent Seager Centre houses First Nations, Métis, Wheeler Farm National Historic Site and pioneer artifacts. In the town, east of Rosthern, visit Saskatchewan’s larger-than-life outdoor murals depict settlement era, when this province’s the resistance period, one of them world-wide reputation for grain- done by self-taught realist painter growing was established — thanks Glen Scrimshaw, a native of Big River in part to farmer Wheeler, who won who’s lived in Duck Lake since 1991 five early 20th century World Wheat and operates a gallery there. Stay in Championships. The farm is now a one of the local accommodations such national historic site restored to its as Jack Pine Stables, where you can 1919 state as well as an agricultural experience Métis and First Nations’ research station with flower gardens, culture. Relax in a B&B style room, orchard, bird sanctuary and marsh. or experience an authentic tipi.

Prince Albert National Park of Canada, Saskatchewan 50 51

West of Highway 11, visit restored Fort or BYO horseshoes. And don’t forget And when it is finally time to leave, Carlton, built by the Hudson’s Bay to enjoy some serious beach time at meander along Highway 263, stopping For more information contact: Company in 1810 as a trading post what are arguably the nicest beaches to savour the scenery and watch the Saskatchewan Tourism to supply provisions to the Hudson’s in the province. The seven beaches wildlife. You’ll marvel at how much www.sasktourism.com Bay Company fur trading network. around Waskesiu townsite as well as you can pack into a week here — and or call 1-877-2ESCAPE the more outlying beaches are wish you could stay longer. Living Prairie History very popular with locals and John G. Diefenbaker, 13th visitors alike. The water Canadian Prime Minister, fun ranges from canoeing, called Prince Albert home, kayaking, windsurfing, and while you’re in town, boating, sailing, tubing, drop by Diefenbaker House, water skiing, and wake The Chief’s last residence. boarding — not to mention Also visit the Prince Albert just plain lazing and paddling. Arts Centre, housed in the former Prince Albert Town Hall and Take time to hike or canoe to Opera House, built in 1893 and now isolated Beaver Lodge on Ajawaan a National Historic Site, and head to Lake, once the home of Grey Owl. It the second floor Foyer Gallery to check was here that Archie Belaney a.k.a. out the latest regional art exhibition. Wa-Sha-Quon-Asin, or He Who Flies by Night established a sanctuary for Mother Nature’s Playground the then endangered beaver with On to Prince Albert National Park of his Mohawk wife Anahareo, though Canada, where almost 3,875 square by many accounts he spent more kilometres of aspen parkland, boreal time with his tame beavers Jellyroll forest, and glacial lakes shelter elk, and Rawhide than with his wife.

moose, black bears, wolves, bison, Outside the park, golfers can deer, beaver, otter, muskrat, and a tee off at the Elk Ridge’s multitude of waterfowl species — 27-hole course or inside at including rare white pelicans. the Waskesiu Golf Course, one of the province’s There are plenty of delightful places prettiest. Remember the in and around the park for some rest Lobstick rule here: on and relaxation, including the Elk Ridge the first hole, you may Golf Resort and the four-star Hawood re-play your ball if it Inn. Within the park, at Waskesiu hits the Lobstick, (tall townsite, explore historic buildings spruce or pine living and unique shops, try lawn bowling trail marker in Cree).

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Some 15,000 years ago, the Canadian Rocky Mountains lay covered in an ice sheet so thick that it blanketed valleys and peaks alike. Then the air began to warm, and the ice, inch by inch, receded. Great boulders Mountain and tiny pebbles, caught up in the moving, frozen expanses, carved the land beneath them, deepening valleys and sharpening peaks.

The legacy of that Ice Age lingers along Chateau Lake Louise, and the gleaming Peaks and the 230-kilometre Icefields Parkway Victoria Glacier. Hike to the Lake Agnes between Lake Louise and Jasper, teahouse or canoe emerald gems like high on the Continental Divide. The nearby Moraine Lake. Columbia Icefield alone, its brilliant Glaciers white ice shot through with cool tones When you leave Lake Louise on of blue and green, stretches Highway 1 west, keep in mind Alberta over 325 square gas stations en route to kilometres, feeding Jasper are limited, six major glaciers and only open late and sending spring to early meltwaters to the fall. As you turn Pacific, Atlantic onto Highway and Arctic oceans. 93 — the Icefields Parkway — the Breathtaking glacier road begins to climb. and mountain panoramas Watch for Hector Lake, stretch along the Parkway Columbia Icefield set against the slopes of the as it traverses Banff and Waputik Range, and then Jasper National Parks. Easy to drive the lookout for Crowfoot Glacier which in half a day, the route deserves once sported the three “toes” of a much longer — walk on the Athabasca crow — today it’s down to only two. Glacier, where the ice beneath your feet fell as snow 400 years ago; linger Just a few kilometres later, a breezeless at waterfalls below peaks named day makes a perfect mirror out of Bow for alpine explorers; and above all, Lake, reflecting Crowfoot Mountain treasure the valleys where ancient ice with Bow Glacier glittering beyond it. still spills over the mountainsides. The drive continues through alpine meadows and forest to Bow Summit, In the Beginning the Parkway’s highest point at 2,068 The Stony Indians called Lake Louise metres. Take a short detour to the the Lake of Little Fishes. It was outstanding viewpoint overlooking Peyto renamed for Queen Victoria’s fourth Lake, where glacial silt turns the water daughter, and remains Rocky Mountain the purest sky blue. royalty today. Only about two-and-a-half hours from Calgary, en route you’ll travel through UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the mountain town of Banff. In the village of Lake Louise, you’ll find accommodations and provisions. Four kilometres up Lake Louise Drive, you’ll find the famed lake itself, framed by the venerable Fairmont

Moraine Lake, Banff National Park, Alberta 54 55

The road then descends into the spruce- Ancient Ice Soon after you enter Jasper National Sunwapta Falls, to see water flowing filled Mistaya River valley, with peak As you continue northwest on the Park, the Columbia Icefield sweeps out of the Chaba Valley over a series of after peak leading to the Saskatchewan Parkway, the North Saskatchewan into view with spectacular rock “steps” into the Crossing, where the Mistaya joins River braids its way through gravel views of the Athabasca and Valley, carving a deep hole the Howse and North Saskatchewan flats, and snowmelt on Cirrus Dome Glaciers. Pause at into the limestone. Rivers. The David Thompson Highway Mountain seeps through cracks in the Columbia Icefield (Highway 11) meets the Parkway nearby, the Weeping Wall, creating artful Interpretive Centre and Shortly afterwards, the heading east to wilderness fishing, waterfalls. For walkers, the steep check out informative Parkway temporarily trail riding and hiking areas including Parker Ridge trail is renowned for displays, then ride splits: opt for 93A Abraham Lake, the Cline River and its Saskatchewan Glacier views. an Ice Explorer onto to visit Athabasca White Goat Provincial Wilderness Area. the six-kilometre-long Falls, where melt- Athabasca Glacier. The waters thunder into glacier-cooled breeze a quartz and is a treat on a hot day, limestone canyon. and you may even hear Further north, a the ice groaning. If you’re winding road offers feeling energetic, hike optional access to Mount to the glacier’s toe, past Edith Cavell, where a moraines — piles of once Columbia Icefield lovely walk reveals alpine ice-locked rocks. wildflowers, and the Angel Glacier hanging high against the rock. Wild and Woolly Be alert for wildlife along the Parkway: The Parkway ends at the town of its mountains are home to black bears, Jasper, with ample opportunities for mountain goats, bighorn sheep and hiking, golfing, rafting, canoeing elk — none of which should and horseback riding. Soak be approached or fed, at Miette Hot Springs; of course, for your ride the Tramway up protection and theirs. the mountain known After following the as The Whistlers or Sunwapta River, the enjoy the energy and road climbs again, sounds of the Jasper through goat and sheep Heritage Folk Festival territory, to the interlaced on July 29 and 30. waterfalls of Tangle Falls, and then to the Stutfield Stutfield Glacier Here, and all along the Glacier viewpoint. It’s well Parkway, you’ll find worth taking the short access road to yourself beside jewel-like rivers and lakes where icy water flows — direct from last winter’s snowfall on the peaks, and from this summer’s glacial meltwaters. Trail your fingers in the flow, and feel the connection to this magnificent landscape.

For more information contact: Travel Alberta www.TravelAlberta.com or call 1-800-ALBERTA

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Mist-wreathed islands and inlets, glacier-capped mountain peaks and grasslands that seem to roll on forever… drive beyond British Columbia’s cosmopolitan cities, and its Pacific Coast reflects a land still waiting to be discovered — a land where orcas breach in saltwater channels, and grizzly bears roam old-growth forests. This truly is the road less travelled.

Adventure Of course, it’s not completely time… letting the sound of wind in untravelled. The coastal native the boat riggings and water against peoples lived here for some 8,000 the shoreline guide your way. years before Captain George Vancouver sailed between Vancouver Take Highway 19 north, opting just By Land and Island and the mainland in 1792, south of Parksville for the oceanside searching for the Northwest Passage 19A. It meanders past sandy beaches, and charting the lace-like pattern great golf courses, and excellent places of islands and channels. One year to hike, horseback ride and birdwatch By Sea later, overland explorer Alexander for some 250 species. Along the way, Mackenzie reached the west coast at Qualicum Beach takes advantage of British Columbia Bella Coola. the temperate climate with This sweeping gorgeous 1,387-kilometre gardens and circle drive the under- (plus two canvas Bard ferry sailings) to Broadway echoes their Summer discoveries, Canadian Open Sand Sculpting Competition, Parksville Theatre, crossing from from late Vancouver to Vancouver Island, and June to early September. Denman returning through Cariboo Chilcotin and Hornby islands and Courtenay country. Taking the ferry is an (a good base for exploring Mount adventure in itself — BC sail Washington) are renowned for their to Bella Coola from June through artists; Campbell River for excellent early September, and the year- outdoor adventure — while museums round crossing from Vancouver to at Campbell River and nearby Quadra Nanaimo makes island exploration Island introduce coastal First Nations easy. Between the road and the heritage. Highway 19 then links to ocean, allow at least a week, or 10 the fishing haven of Port McNeill to 14 days with adventure options, before reaching Port Hardy. to follow what the province calls the Coast Cariboo Circle Tour. On the Water BC Ferries offers several routes from Island Time Port Hardy to Bella Coola: a daylight Stunning views of Vancouver’s same-day trip through to overnight skyscrapers and mountain peaks, options that stop at isolated coastal accompanied by the tang of salt communities such as Klemtu, a water on the breeze, speed your centre of Kitasoo native culture. Deep BC Ferries crossing to Nanaimo, on glacial fjords, forests that seem to dip Vancouver Island. Plan to stroll the their toes in salt water, and wildlife Harbourside Walkway here — it’s the from whales to sea lions highlight perfect setting for switching to island the crossing. As the ferry moves up

BC Ferries’ “Queen of the North” sails the Inside Passage, British Columbia 58 59

Burke Channel towards Bella Coola, people protected their traditional visit during the Canada Day weekend, Par Excellence imagine the 1862 Cariboo Gold Rush: territory. In Ts’yl-os Provincial Park, the when the Stampede’s in town. You’ll Whistler’s amazing winter assets may if you’d caught gold fever back then, salmon run from late August to early then travel south on Highway have made it the choice location this could have been your route. October at Chilko Lake, which also 97 — the old Cariboo Waggon for alpine and Nordic events harbours trout and whitefish. Detour at Road — counting down the at the 2010 Olympic and The Freedom Highway Riske Creek for bighorn sheep spotting miles at 100 Mile House Paralympic Winter Games Canneries, logs and fishing boats (think at Junction Sheep Range Provincial (look for the giant cross- in Vancouver, but the sport fishing!) line the bustling port of Park, and the dramatic Farwell Canyon. country skis), Mt. Begbie mountain playground Bella Coola. Further inland on Highway Lookout to Clinton then is just as packed with 20, Hagensborg retains a Nordic feel, Cowboy Country along 99 to Lillooet adventure from spring which you can explore at the early At Williams Lake, you can explore (Mile 0 on the Gold Rush to fall. Named for the 1900s Norwegian Heritage House. Shuswap culture, from basket making Trail). This is guest ranch marmots that whistle on to traditional foods, at the Xats’ull country, entirely the right the rocky slopes high above Travelling through the scented cedar and Heritage Village. Rodeo fans should place for trail riding, cattle the champion-designed golf fir of the valley and the pines driving and the cowboy way of life. courses and sparkling lakes, this is of the mountains — just hiking, golfing, biking, spa and even south of where boutique shopping heaven. It’s a two- Mackenzie crossed hour drive along the spectacular two centuries Sea to Sky Highway back ago — Highway to Vancouver, where the 20 enters a steep gardens of Stanley stretch of gravel Park and the shops road where the and museums Coast Mountain of Granville Range begins Island beckon. called The Hill. It’s also known The Pacific as the Freedom Coast — from Highway because George Vancouver’s when completed by landscape of the locals in 1953, it coastal mountains finally linked Bella Coola and ocean coves to with Williams Lake — and Alexander Mackenzie’s the outside world. This journey of rivers, lakes switchback route reaches and valleys — remains an elevation of 1,524 metres much as the two at Heckman Pass — a great explorers discovered it: place for admiring the views. truly wild and truly remarkable. Discover it for From here to Williams Lake, yourself, by land and by sea. outdoor adventures abound. Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, For more information contact: and Nimpo Lake offer Tourism British Columbia outstanding fishing for native trout and www.HelloBC.com other species, plus hiking, canoeing or call 1-800 HELLO BC and horseback riding opportunities, including fly-in and pack-in trips.

History buffs will appreciate the Bull Canyon and Battle Rock sites near Alexis Creek, where the Chilcotin Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 61

Klondike heritage meets the natural grandeur of the Kluane region on an unforgettable adventure through Canada’s Yukon. Historic Dawson City still evokes a golden era when thousands of hopeful gold seekers Klondike- poured into the Klondike in search of riches. A Canadian natural treasure, Kluane National Park and Reserve encompasses broad, lush valleys and mountain ranges that include vast ice fields and Mount Logan, Canada’s Kluane highest peak. The Klondike-Kluane Loop is a Yukon Today, travellers can head north from classic — a five-day excursion featuring Whitehorse, the Yukon capital, and gold panning, glaciers and grizzly follow the North Klondike Highway Loop bears. Revel in the Yukon pace deep into the heart of gold and the crisp northern air as rush country. Visit the First Yukon Territory you weave along scenic Nations communities of highways and through Carmacks and Pelly friendly communities. Crossing, each with It’s a journey from a cultural centre the Yukon’s colourful depicting the life past — a time of free- of the Northern wheeling characters Tutchone people. and frontier spirit — Take a boat trip to its glorious present along the Yukon as a wild land known River to Fort Selkirk, for solitude, wildlife and a traditional meeting breathtaking scenery. place and one of the oldest settlements in the The entire 1,400-kilometre route is Yukon. It was once considered well-maintained and most of it is paved. for the title of Territory capital, Along the way, you’ll discover beautiful but today the highway passes it campgrounds and communities with by and this amazing time capsule full-service RV parks, motels and bed of an historic site can only be reached and breakfasts. Though it’s a good by river or by air. idea to plan ahead, you’ll want to allow for spontaneous adventures like Historic Dawson City flightseeing or inn-hopping. A lively place bursting with heritage sites and attractions, historic Dawson Klondike Trail of ’98 City retains the gritty feeling of an More than a century ago, news of a authentic frontier town. Boardwalks gold bonanza in the Klondike lured line dusty streets, false-fronted people from across North America to buildings lean precariously into the Yukon. Bolstered by their dreams alleyways and locals stroll and heartened by incredible stories through town dressed about rich strikes of gold, thousands of in Gold Rush-era miners struggled across fashions. Whether and floated the Yukon River to Dawson retiring to a stately City. As the 19th century came to a restored inn or a close, Dawson turned into a rollicking cozy cabin, in the frontier town filled with desperate Klondike you feel prospectors, shrewd entrepreneurs, like you stepped Mounties and dancehall girls. back 100 years.

Kluane Lake, Yukon Territory 62 63

Visitors come to Dawson City to communities of Destruction Bay In mid-June, the back-to-back Alsek Starting and ending in Whitehorse, the explore national historic sites like the and Burwash Landing. This is a Music Festival and Kluane Mountain Klondike-Kluane Loop packs many of elegant Commissioner’s Residence mountainous region of exceptional Bluegrass Festival rock Haines Junction, the Yukon’s premiere attractions into or Dredge #4, the largest bucket-line natural beauty where your chances the picturesque mountain town nestled one circuit. Five days are recommended, wooden-hulled dredge in North are good to spot moose, at the edge of Kluane National Park. but a more leisurely Yukon pace is the America. Tour the Klondike bears and Dall sheep. The Dawson City Music Festival in July best way to enjoy the journey. You’ll be goldfields and sense the is “Canada’s tiny, perfect festival”, a enchanted by the spell of the Klondike fever that gripped Dawson In the southwest corner celebration of musical talent with the and the Yukon’s inspiring landscape. a century ago. Imagine of the Yukon lies Kluane backdrop of the Klondike. the shattered dreams National Park and For more information contact: of young men who went Reserve, a mass of giant Yukon Department of home empty-handed. peaks, ice fields and Tourism and Culture glacial valleys crowned www.to.touryukon.com The culture and spirit by Mount Logan, or call 1-800-789-8566 of northern people, both Canada’s highest peak First Nations and those of at 5,959 metres. more recent arrivals, capture Kluane is the Yukon the imagination. Discover the component of the Yukon River and caribou stories largest international of the Hän people who have fished protected area in the world. and hunted in this region for countless Together, four interconnecting generations. Enjoy true Klondike wilderness parks in B.C., hospitality at a can-can dancehall show Alaska and the Yukon are at Diamond Tooth Gertie’s. Listen to designated a UNESCO World readings of Robert Service, the bard of Heritage Site. the Klondike who penned famous verses about the men who moiled for gold. Visitors explore this magnificent landscape on short roadside trails, Top of the World longer day hikes, backcountry When you’re happily exhausted from treks and river rafting expeditions. the bustle of Dawson City, it’s time to Wildflowers fill Kluane’s alpine explore one of the Yukon’s most scenic meadows and wildlife is abundant in byways. Take the free ferry ride across the park’s broad valleys. The St. Elias the Yukon River to the Top of the World Ice Fields and hundreds of glaciers Highway. This winding mountain road that lie beyond the front ranges can reveals expansive views at every curve be viewed during a multi-day hike or as you drive along a series of ridges on a flightseeing excursion. These high above the tree line. You cross the are the largest non-polar ice fields in Canada-U.S. border at the summer- the world, and the Lowell Glacier’s only customs post, and then briefly movements embellish many Southern follow the Taylor Highway in Alaska Tutchone legends. before looping back to the Yukon. Grizzlies, Gold and Guitars Kluane Parkway When the midnight sun peaks and the From Beaver Creek to Haines Junction, days are long and warm, the Yukon the Alaska Highway parallels the becomes a musical playground. Time majestic rim of the Kluane Front your driving adventure with renowned Ranges. The route passes Kluane music festivals in Haines Junction Lake, the largest lake in the Yukon, or Dawson City, highlighting local, as well as Sheep Mountain, and the national and international performers.

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The intimacy of small communities in the Northwest Territories is set against an open and seemingly endless landscape. With a population mix of Dene, Métis, Inuvialuit and “southern” folk, it’s here that traditional Big River, cultures and ways meet modern living. The Deh Cho Connection takes visitors along the Mackenzie, Liard and Alaska Highways, looping through boreal forest and plains, and past breathtaking waterfalls. While you’re Big Country taking in the beauty of the land, keep an eye out for caribou, lynx, bison, bear and beaver. Northwest Territories Unofficial Gateway Nation Reserve on the south shore to the North across from Hay River shares and In Enterprise, a sign on the window preserves Dene culture in a building of Winnie’s Dene Art Gallery and Gift designed with advice from Dene elders. Shop reads, “It’s a boy”. The Stretch your legs on one of owner has just had a new the town’s hiking trails grandchild and wants to before heading for the share the good news Territories /Alberta with everyone. The border and Fort gift shop features Smith, the local crafts such as “Garden Capital birchbark baskets, of the North”. beaded slippers and moosehair tufting. White Water Fuel up here, then and Bison turn off onto Highway 2 An insouciant bear for Hay River. crosses the highway to Fort Smith. Further away, The Hub some bison stop grazing and Nicknamed “the Hub”, the highway move slowly into the brush. You’re and railroad from northern Alberta not far from Wood Buffalo National converge here with the waterways Park, which was established in 1922 flowing to the Arctic. Enjoy great to protect one of the world’s last free- sport fishing, or learn about the roaming herds of wood bison. This area’s commercial fishing industry on UNESCO World Heritage Site is the a harbour boat tour that also takes largest national park in Canada. A passengers past barges which transport platform offers a good view of the Salt supplies to isolated communities along Plains, the remnants of a saltwater the Mackenzie River. The Fisherman’s ocean that once covered the area. Wharf Outdoor Market held Saturdays from mid-June until mid-September features fresh fish and local artwork.

The Hay River Heritage Centre in the old Hudson’s Bay post on Vale Island has exhibits about the town’s history, including the 1964 flood that forced the town to move. The Dene Cultural Institute or Yamozha Kue Society in the Katlodeeche First

Virginia Falls, Nahanni National Park, Northwest Territories 66 67

Fort Smith sits on the banks of the While standing in the foyer, known as Western Forts (Hbc) buildings behind the Northern Slave River, which has four sets of the Great Hall, visitors can get a clear Located where the Liard and Mackenzie store are part of the town’s history. rapids that are popular with whitewater view of the circular chambers where Rivers meet, Fort Simpson was The North West Company, which runs kayakers. The Northern Life the Territories’ 19 members sit. initially a fur trading post. The Visitor Northern stores, is the inheritor of the Museum has just reopened and Information Centre has Hbc legacy for providing features traditional artifacts Wander around old town and an exhibit on the food and everyday and exhibits about the grab a bite at the Wildcat area’s history products to area’s history. Mission Café, which first opened in and can arrange remote northern Historic Park houses the 1937 during Yellowknife’s guided walking communities. historic Roman Catholic Gold Rush days. The tours of the town. Mission buildings, café is open mid-May There are no roads Continuing south, including a lovely grotto. to early September. If to spectacular Nahanni NWT Highway 7 It was the Territories’ you’re in town July 15 National Park Reserve, but the becomes B.C.’s Highway 77. centre for health care, to 17, 2005, the Folk Visitor Centre in Fort Simpson can help The best way to appreciate this northern education and missionary on the Rocks Festival arrange a flightseeing day trip. drive is to take your time and spend a work for much of the 19th is celebrating its 25th week. Life up here moves at a relaxed and 20th centuries. It’s time to anniversary with its usual Fort Liard is best known for its pace, so enjoy the soothing rhythm of backtrack to the Hub, then north eclectic mix of talent from the birchbark baskets decorated with the land. You’ll be carrying a part of it to the Territories’ capital, Yellowknife. North and around the world. traditional Dene quillwork. Could with you always. the increase in local oil and gas Diamonds are a With diamond mines about 300 exploration be due to the famed Money For more information contact: City’s Best Friend kilometres north of Yellowknife, Tree? Shaped like a dollar sign, it’s Northwest Territories Tourism A visitor inside the Prince of Wales diamonds are the city’s best friend. on the right side of the main road as www.drive9.explorenwt.com Northern Heritage Centre is getting The Diavik Visitors’ Centre has an you drive into the hamlet. Some of or call 1-800-661-0788 directions to the washroom. “Go past exhibit explaining how diamonds are the former Hudson’s Bay Company the polar bear and turn left at the formed and mined. If you’re looking musk ox”, an employee explains. A big for a serious souvenir, Canadian stuffed polar bear greets visitors at the Arctic diamonds, cut and polished entrance, while displays introduce you in Yellowknife, can be purchased (or to the history, flora and fauna of the simply admired) locally. Northwest Territories. Tours are given of the Legislative Assembly which opened on November 17, 1993.

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map. 69

The hope of discovering a Northern trade route from the Old World to the Orient lured early explorers to many points in Canada, including an extraordinary land where shaggy musk ox wandered vast tracts of tundra and massive polar bears ruled over glacial dunes. A century ago, Roald Amundsen was the first to sail the Northwest Passage. The midnight sun shone bright in summer’s night sky and icy Arctic waters bathed miles of sparkling beach. Today’s modern-day adventurers can still find that mysterious land. A journey to Western Nunavut’s Kitikmeot Region will be illuminated by the bright smiles of Inuit people and the radiance of the aurora borealis.

Canada’s youngest territory offers Cambridge Bay’s traditional Inuit a voyage unlike others. There are name is Ikaluktutiak — a good fishing no highways into Nunavut but place — and anglers will be treated to regular flights are routed through world-class trout and char fishing Yellowknife, NWT to the in nearby streams and lakes. Kitikmeot. After arriving in Build a fire and you’ll be Cambridge Bay above the able to enjoy a fresh Arctic Circle, further catch right off your exploration of Victoria hook or stop in at Island will reward Kitikmeot Foods and you with sights of ask about shipping centuries-old Inuit home some char, and European artifacts caribou or musk ox. as well as Arctic wildlife. A flight west In “Cam Bay” you to Kugluktuk will take can rent a vehicle or you to the mouth of the hike a 15-kilometre, well- Coppermine River where fresh maintained trail to “the baby, water makes its way to the Arctic the lady and the giant” — also known Ocean, then you’ll travel back eastward as Mount Pelly in Ovayok Territorial The to Gjoa Haven and the Northwest Park. Legend tells that the mounds are Passage Territorial Historic Park. a family that travelled in search of food but eventually perished of starvation. Cambridge Bay High-Arctic winters are harsh and dark, Kitikmeot Set along the shores of the Queen but every spring, the tundra bursts Maud Gulf sits Cambridge Bay. to life with the arrival of migratory Here you can immerse yourself in birds — snow buntings, swans, geese, Inuit culture, catch the sight of and falcons. Mid-summer, the land musk ox grazing just out of town or is covered with a blanket of Arctic Expedition take a walking tour to the wreck of poppies and purple saxifrage. Amundsen’s half-sunken boat. There’s Nunavut also the Old Stone Church (not so old Along the road to the park, at circa 1953) built using seal oil, stop at well-marked clay and frost-shattered rocks. It’s archaeological sites. not recommended to trek onto the Spot an inukshuk tundra without a guide but the Arctic (a rock cairn) and the Coast Visitors’ Centre can arrange remains of whalebone bird, waterfowl and wildlife watching. and rock structures.

Bloody Falls, Nunavut 70

Kugluktuk Gjoa Haven Sparsely populated Nunavut is one- When Amundsen settled at Gjoa Haven fifth the size of Canada with hundreds a century ago, he found a refuge for his of kilometres separating small ship the Gjoa. You can re-discover the communities, but travelling between accounts of many failed expeditions We can’t help them is part of the experience. Flying and Amundsen’s successful one westward, Kugluktuk is located at at the community museum and on the mouth of the Coppermine River, a self-guided trail. The Northwest you choose considered one of the continent’s Passage Territorial Historic Park can great canoe trips. But you don’t be visited easily in an afternoon. Gjoa have to be paddling to take in the Haven is also the nearest community which ‘best drive’ untamed beauty. The Kugluktuk to where the members of the Heritage Centre provides a great doomed Franklin Expedition perished starting point for short tours and can half a century before Amundsen to take. help arrange a hotel or camping. arrived. The location of Franklin’s tomb remains a mystery today. A rough 13-kilometre hike to the Kuklok (Bloody Falls) Territorial Park A visit to Arctic Canada offers a trails past a glimpse into a scene discovered by background of few. A week will let you raise your face But we can rolling tundra to the midnight sun, immerse yourself and jagged cliffs. in intriguing history and admire the show you all your The site got its Arctic wildlife. Like explorers from name from a 16th the past, you’ll hear voices speaking century massacre the native language of Inuktitut and hotel options of Inuit by Dene be able to pick up fine Inuit carvings people. It’s a terrific opportunity for crafted from bone or soapstone. Your wildlife watching and camping. The quest for the extraordinary will along the way. park is close to the tree line and be fulfilled here in western Nunavut moose, wolverines, wolves, musk ox, but the expedition will undoubtedly grizzlies and caribou often make their leave you craving for more. way down the river. But be prepared for wet, spongy ground and a few For more information contact: Make your ‘Best Drive in Canada’ come alive this stream crossings. If you don’t fancy Nunavut Tourism summer with Expedia.ca. You can book the perfect the walk, you can hire a boat trip up www.nunavuttourism.com hotels along the way and the dream rental car to the river or rent an all-terrain vehicle. or call 1-866-NUNAVUT help get you there. Take off, eh.

Not to scale. Consult a detailed map.

Questions? You can call us 24/7. ©2002 Expedia Canada Corp. All rights reserved. Expedia, Expedia.ca, the Expedia logo are either registered trademarks or trademarks of Expedia, Inc., in Canada and the USA. 2 0 0 5 Calendar of Events Just a tiny slice of the incredible festivals, fairs, celebrations, concerts, stampedes, sporting events, culture and just plain fun you can find across Canada this summer.

Newfoundland & Labrador New Brunswick Festival 500 — Sharing the Voices Festival acadien de July 3 – 10 August 1 – 15 St. John’s Caraquet www.festival500.com www.festivalacadiencaraquet.com or [email protected] (506) 727-2787 (709) 738-6013 Harvest Jazz and Blues Festival Newfoundland & Labrador September 14 – 18 Folk Festival Fredericton August 5 – 7 www.harvestjazzandblues.com St. John’s (506) 454-2583 or 1-888-622-5837 www.sjfac.nf.net or [email protected] (709) 576-8508 Québec Nova Scotia Les Grands Feux Loto-Québec July 23 – August 10 Nova Scotia International Tattoo Parc de la Chute-Montmorency July 1 – 9 www.lesgrandsfeux.com Halifax or [email protected] www.nstattoo.ca or [email protected] (418) 523-3389 or 1-888-934-3473 1-800-563-1114 Festival international Nuits here are days that are really meant for heaven. T 2005 BMO Financial Group d’Afrique If by chance they fall to earth, it’s remarkable Canadian Women’s Open Golf July 14 – 24 how they usually land at one of our resorts. Championship Montréal July 11 – 17 www.festivalnuitsdafrique.com Halifax or [email protected] www.glenarbour.com/Events/Open05 (514) 499-9239 1-866-571-LPGA (5442) Ontario Prince Edward Island Beaches International Jazz Festival PEI International Shellfish Festival July 14 – 24 September 16 – 18 Toronto Historic Charlottetown Waterfront www.beachesjazz.com www.peishellfish.com (416) 698-2152 or [email protected] (902) 629-1864 or 1-800-955-2003 Shaw Festival April 1 – November 27 Atlantic Superstore Niagara-on-the-Lake Festival of Lights www.shawfest.com June 30 – July 2 (905) 468-2153 Historic Charlottetown Waterfront www.visitcharlottetown.com or [email protected] (902) 629-1864 or 1-800-955-1864 continued ➤ Call your travel professional or 1 800 866 5577 www.fairmont.com

Fairmont Château Laurier, Ottawa . Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth, Montréal Fairmont Le Château Montebello . Fairmont Tremblant Plus 41 other destinations in Canada, U.S., Mexico, Barbados, Bermuda, United Kingdom and United Arab Emirates. 74

Manitoba Yukon Territory Winnipeg Folk Festival Dawson City Music Festival July 7 – 10 July 22 – 24 Birds Hill Provincial Park Dawson City www.winnipegfolkfestival.ca www.dcmf.com or [email protected] or [email protected] (867) 993-5584 You actually hear (204) 231-0096 Kluane Chilkat Manitoba Summerfest International Bike Relay July 29 – 31 June 18 the sound of silence. outskirts of Grand Beach Haines Junction Provincial Park www.kcibr.org or [email protected] www.manitobasummerfest.com (867) 633-2579 or [email protected] (204) 989-8075 Northwest Territories Saskatchewan Great Northern Arts Festival July 15 – 24 Sasktel Saskatchewan Jazz Festival Inuvik June 24 – July 3 www.gnaf.ca www.saskjazz.com or [email protected] Folk on the Rocks Music Festival (306) 652-1421 July 15 – 17 Yellowknife Saskatchewan Air Show www.folkontherocks.com July 9 – 10 Moose Jaw Nunavut www.saskatchewanairshow.com Nunavut Arts Festival or [email protected] July 8 – 15 (306) 692-4411 Cambridge Bay Alberta www.NACAarts.org or [email protected] Banff Summer Arts Festival 2005 (867) 979-7808 Summer, 2005 www.banffcentre.ca/bsaf Nunavut Day Picturesque landscapes July 9 in all communities Jasper Heritage Rodeo Every community holds local activities and awe-inspiring August 19 – 22 Jasper mountain ranges are www.jasperheritageprorodeo.com or [email protected] closer than you think. Hbc Run for Canada British Columbia July 1 — 10k Run, 3k Walk, 1k Kids Run British Columbia — Victoria They’re right here in Canada. Bard on the Beach Alberta — Calgary Shakespeare Festival Manitoba — Winnipeg In fact, you’ll find all kinds June 2 – September 25 Ontario — Toronto, Algonquin Park, Vancouver Ottawa of experiences and activities www.bardonthebeach.org Nova Scotia — Halifax (604) 739-0559 or 1-877-739-0559 www.hbcrunforcanada.com from inventive cuisine to whale watching Tibet: Mountains and Valleys, adventures, just beyond your doorstep. Castles and Tents For more events across Canada, Exhibit at the Royal BC Museum visit www.travelcanada.ca/festivals March 4 – October 10

Victoria Although we’ve done our best to ensure the www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca information listed is current, always check (250) 356-RBCM (7226) with event organizers to confirm details before or 1-888-447-7977 heading out.

For many inspiring vacation ideas and offers visit www.travelcanada.ca/toyota www.getgoingcanada.ca

Every effort has been made to ensure all content is accurate. Toyota Canada Inc., its associates and corporate partners are not liable for any erroneous information that may appear. Please ensure that you check all facts before travelling to any of the destinations described in the context of this guide and always drive safely. Photos courtesy of: Canadian Tourism Commission, Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism, Nova Scotia Department of Tourism, Culture and Heritage, Tourism PEI/Barrett & MacKay/John Sylvester, New Brunswick Department of Tourism and Parks, Tourisme Québec/M.Renaud/C.Parent/P.Hurteau, Ontario Tourism and Marketing Partnership Corp., Glen Harris, Travel Manitoba, Tourism Saskatchewan/Douglas E. Walker, Travel Alberta, Tourism British Columbia, Northwest Territories Tourism, Yukon Department of Tourism and Culture/Derek Crowe, Nunavut Tourism/Dan Krueger – Nunavut Tourism collection/Tessa Macintosh/Brian Webb. Some photos property of Getty Images, Inc., Masterfile Corporation and First Light Associated Photographers, Inc. Toyota recognizes its duty to safeguard the environment. To support this concern, this guide is printed on recycled paper with vegetable-based inks to be fully recyclable. Printed in Canada. E

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