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Home , Doctoral hat, Necktie, Pantsuit, Strapless dress, Tailcoat

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From Celebration to Celebration Author: Pirjo Saravirta

Dress Code for the Conferment Ceremony

This guide introduces the code for the conferment ceremony at Lappeenranta University of Technology. The following should be observed at the conferment ceremony of Lappeenranta University of Technology to establish in-house traditions. The instructions may, in some respects, differ from those of other universities.

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- Conferment Ceremony -

REHEARSAL, CONFERMENT, BANQUENT AND BALL SWORD CEREMONY CHURCH SERVICE

RECIPIENT OF Dark White tie (HONORARY) tails, black vest, no tails, white vest, no DOCTORATE, handkerchief, black leather handkerchief, doctoral male (not ) , decorations

RECIPIENT OF Semi-formal Formal, full-length Formal evening , (HONORARY) daytime attire daytime attire any colour, doctoral hat, DOCTORATE, black, long sleeves, high decorations female neckline, no ornate , no

COMPANION OF Dark suit Dark suit or white tie White tie RECIPIENT and tails, black vest, tails, white vest, no male no handkerchief (doctors: handkerchief (doctors: academic regalia) doctoral hat), decorations

COMPANION OF Semi-formal Semi-formal daytime attire Formal RECIPIENT daytime attire black or dark, short, long any colour, (doctors: female sleeves, high neckline doctoral hat), decorations (doctors: academic regalia)

INVITED GUEST, Dark suit Dark suit or white tie White tie male and tails, black vest, tails, white vest, no no handkerchief (doctors: handkerchief (doctors: academic regalia) doctoral hat), decorations

INVITED GUEST, Semi-formal Semi-formal daytime attire Formal evening gown female daytime attire black or dark, short, long any colour, (doctors: sleeves, high neckline doctoral hat), decorations (doctors: academic regalia)

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- Dark Suit -

A dark suit is alternatively black, dark blue or dark grey. It is never brown or green. The fabric is smooth, rather thin and of a solid colour (or seemingly so). Instead of a solid colour, the suit may also be conservatively or barely noticeably striped, but not pin-striped. The may be single- or double-breasted. During the festivities, it may be removed only at the request of the host. A dark suit is appropriate for any occasion, regardless of the time of day.

SHIRT The is of high quality, white and with a starched wingtip or Windsor . Single or double cuffs, always with .

NECKTIE The may be dark blue or grey and it is made of . A pearl grey necktie is considered the most formal. The tie is always chosen according to the occasion. A black necktie is worn to funerals. Also a bowtie may be worn with a dark suit. A wingtip collar requires a bowtie. In academic festivities, the bowtie is of a con- servative colour, such as pearl grey.

VEST A vest may be worn with a single-breasted suit, provided that it is made from the same fabric as the suit. According to time-honouring traditions, the bottom button of the vest is always left unbuttoned.

OVERCOAT A dark blue, dark grey or black ulster or trench may be worn over a dark suit. The coat must be knee-length or longer.

GLOVES Gloves are made of black or grey leather.

SCARF The may be solid or patterned silk or cashmere.

DECORATIONS Please see “Decorations”.

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- Dark Suit, Accessories -

BELT A black leather with a simple buckle may be worn with a dark suit. No are worn with the belt.

SUSPENDERS Suspenders worn with a dark suit must be narrow and of the same colour as the suit.

SOCKS The are black, knee-high and made of or mercerised .

SHOES The shoes are black, laced and thin-soled.

WATCH A wrist- may be worn with a dark suit.

JEWELLERY No unnecessary jewellery (e.g. , bracelets or piercings) are worn with a dark suit. A band is, naturally, allowed. Alumni rings are worn on the left index finger. No tie clips may be worn. Less is more.

POCKET No pocket handkerchiefs are worn to academic events. HANDKERCHIEFS

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- Women’s Semi-Formal Daytime Attire -

When men wear a dark suit, women may wear a sophisticated, festive dress, a delicate two-piece suit with a knee-length , or an elegant pantsuit.

Classic semi-formal daytime attire may consist of a black or shell paired with a jacket or made from the same fabric. The hemline may be mini or full-length, depending on the person and the nature of the occasion.

Semi-formal daytime attire may be of any colour. However, it should always have a high neckline and full-length sleeves.

The overall appearance should be sophisticated, conservative and balanced.

In the conferment ceremony, women always wear a black attire with full-length sleeves and a high neckline.

CONFERMENT REHEARSAL, CONFERMENT SWORD SHARPENING - female companion of the recipient - recipient of (honorary) doctorate - invited guest - female companion of the recipient - invited guest

COLOUR Any. Black.

HOSIERY Sheer, elegant, and of a solid colour Solid black or nude, sheer, high-quality. matching the attire or shoes.

SHOES Elegant pumps, colour matching Simple, black pumps. the attire.

WATCH A jewellery watch. A simple, unassuming wrist-watch.

JEWELLERY Fine jewellery with a solid-colour Unassuming jewellery. A simple pearl attire. Modest jewellery with a or gold . patterned attire.

HANDBAG A small clutch or elegant, shoulder- A simple, black, shoulder-held purse. held purse, preferably matching the shoes.

GLOVES Gloves are not necessary. No gloves.

OUTERWEAR A is also appropriate. A black coat or wrap.

HAT No hat. No hat.

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- White tie -

Men's formal evening wear is white tie, which is worn after 18:00 in the evening. Academic festivities are an exception to the rule: they may require white tie also in the daytime.

The is made of wool or a wool blend. The and the outer seams of the are of silk. At academic events, tails are always black. At other events, tails may also be midnight blue, grey or even white.

The garments should be put on in the following : 1. socks, trousers, 2. shoes, 3. shirt, studs, cufflinks, 4. suspenders, 5. bowtie, 6. vest, 7. tailcoat.

SHIRT The shirt is white and has a starched wingtip collar; the wingtips are folded downward and under the bowtie. The front of the shirt dons a white starched dickey made from the same fabric as the vest, tie and cuffs. The shirt is fastened with pearly white or gold studs. The cuffs are fastened with cufflinks which match the studs. One to two centimetres of the cuffs should show from under the tailcoat sleeves.

BOWTIE The bowtie is white; black is reserved for waiters.

VEST The vest is either single- or double-breasted. All of the buttons are fastened. The vest is open-backed with a rubber band adjuster at the back of the neck to adjust the length of the front panels. They may be as long as the front panels of the tailcoat, or at most one or two centimetres longer, and aligned with the tailcoat. A black vest should not be longer than the tailcoat. The shirt should not show from between the vest and the waistband of the trousers. A white vest is fastened with three studs similar to those of the shirt. A black vest is fastened with black studs. Black vest: public defence of a dissertation, conferment ceremony and church service.

White vest: karonkka banquet if ladies present, conferment banquet and ball if ladies present.

OVERCOAT In the winter, the appropriate choice is a dark, wool ulster overcoat that covers the tails. Also a velvet or wool may be used. Other seasons call for a dark .

GLOVES White kid gloves or white gloves made of a knitted cotton or synthetic fabric.

SCARF KThe scarf is made of white silk. It is folded under the lapels of the overcoat. If worn with a cloak, one end may be flung over the shoulder.

DECORATIONS Please see “Decorations”.

If it rains, a transparent or rain- may be worn to the academic procession. must be black.

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- White Tie, Accessories -

BELT No belt is worn with the trousers.

SUSPENDERS If suspenders are used, they must be white and worn under the vest. Suspenders are recommended, because when they are attached in alignment with the crease, they support the trousers.

SOCKS Socks are black and reach at least the mid-calf, preferably the knee, fully covering the ankle. The recommended fabric is silk.

SHOES At daytime events, the shoes are of matte leather and have thin soles. The shoes must always be polished and in good condition. In the evening after 18:00, patent leather shoes are worn.

WATCH The appropriate choice of watch is a , which is placed in the left pocket of the trousers. The chain is attached to the waistband, to the immediate left of the suspenders. The watch may also be kept in the left pocket of the vest, in which case the chain is attached loosely to the lowest button-hole of the vest.

JEWELLERY No unnecessary jewellery (i.e. earrings, bracelets, piercings) should be worn with white tie. A wedding band is, naturally, allowed. Alumni rings are worn on the left index finger.

HANDKERCHIEF No pocket handkerchiefs are worn to academic events. On other occasions, a white pocket square made of silk or cotton cambric is appropriate.

WALLET If it is necessary to carry a wallet, it should be placed in the breast pocket. It should not, however, create a bulge in the coat. The wallet should not be placed in the back pocket of the trousers. 11.11.2011 9

DOCTORAL HAT Holders of a doctoral degree wear a doctoral hat to the conferment. At the conferment banquet and ball, the hat is checked with outerwear.

DOCTORAL No sword is worn to the banquet and ball. SWORD

Further Information • The tails of the tailcoat are tucked aside when seated. • The suit must fit properly. • The tails should fall below the knees. The front panels of the tailcoat should fall just below the . • The legs of the trousers should reach the of the heel. • A white handkerchief is kept in one of the trouser pockets. • The tailcoat should not be removed during the festivities. • Men’s hair should be clean and neatly cut. Long hair is tied back with a black or otherwise unassuming hair-band or barrette. • Cellular phones are not part of . • For fastening the doctoral sword, please see the figure.

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- Women’s Formal Daytime Attire, Doctor - (Conferment and Church Service)

Woman degree recipients wear a full-length black dress with full-length sleeves and a closed, high neckline to the conferment. are not appropriate for the occasion.

The style of the dress should be classic and timeless. The fabric should be elegant (velvet, wool), but not too festive, glossy or transparent. No fur should be worn. If the degree recipient also receives a sword, the dress should be accessorised with a suitable belt. The sword may, however, also be carried in hand.

HOSIERY Solid black, sheer, elegant.

SHOES Simple, black pumps.

WATCH No watch.

JEWELLERY Preferably no jewellery (possibly a simple pearl or gold necklace).

HANDBAG No handbag.

BELT A belt matching the attire, possibly of the same fabric as the dress, which can carry the weight of the sword.

GLOVES No gloves.

OUTERWEAR A simple, black coat or wrap. If it rains, a transparent raincoat or rain-cape may be worn to the academic procession. Umbrellas must be black.

DECORATIONS Please see “Decorations”.

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- Formal Evening Gown -

Ladies’ formal evening wear is determined by the man’s attire. Women’s equivalent for white tie is a long evening gown. It is full-length and worn after 18:00 in the evening.

The dress must fit properly and be made of a festive fabric, such as silk, , taffeta, silk velvet, chiffon or brocade. Stretching woven velvet fabrics or inexpensive synthetic fabrics are not an appropriate choice for an evening gown. The gown may have an open neckline or back, narrow shoulder straps (or no straps), long slits or a train. Festive fine jewellery, which may be too ornate for other , may be worn with an evening gown. Evening are always worn with the appropriate .

An evening gown may be donned in any colour, even by doctoral degree recipients.

Appropriate outerwear includes , , furs, wraps or stoles.

- Formal Evening Gown; Accessories -

HOSIERY High-quality, sheer hosiery with sheen (containing lycra) goes with an evening gown. As a rule, the more formal the event, the sheerer the texture. The colour of the hosiery depends on the dress. Silver or gold shimmer brings a festive touch to the attire, whereas nude is always a safe choice.

SHOES The shoes should be elegant and delicate. They may be of suede, or gold, silver or bronze coloured leather, or a fabric that matches the gown. Open-toed shoes, sling-backs, or mules may be worn with a gown made of a fine fabric. The shoes may also be embellished with glitter, crystal, beads, etc., depending on the gown.

WATCH No watch is worn with an evening gown, with the exception of jewellery .

JEWELLERY Fine jewellery or a jewellery watch may be worn with an evening gown. The necklace must follow the neckline of the gown.

PURSE The purse should be a small, elegant clutch (i.e. no ) which matches the attire. The clutch is not held while dancing. During dinner, the clutch may be placed on the table, left of the place setting. Otherwise, the purse is never placed on the table or the floor. The appropriate place for it is on the seat, close to the back rest.

GLOVES Gloves may be worn with a or a dress with narrow straps. They may be white, black, or the colour of the dress. They are removed for dinner.

HANDKERCHIES Handkerchiefs are kept in the purse.

SCENTS Perfumes are a part of festive occasions. However, they should be used conservatively. Other guests may find strong scents offensive.

HAIR STYLE An evening gown requires a festive hair style. Depending on the style, the hair may be adorned with barrettes, combs, flowers and other hair accessories (, jewel , etc.).

DOCTORAL HAT At the conferment banquet and ball, doctoral are checked with outerwear. 11.11.2011 12

DOCTORAL Doctoral swords are not worn to the banquet and ball. SWORD

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- Decorations -

Women wear and commemorative crosses of orders halfway between the left armhole and the centre of the torso, approximately ten centimetres down from the shoulder seam. Other decorations may be worn simultaneously. Women may wear either full-size or miniature decorations. Decorations set certain requirements for the formal gown, which should be taken into account when selecting the gown. The fabric should be strong enough to hold the decorations in place. Decorations should not touch exposed skin.

Orders’ cross-shaped decorations and medals that hang from a are worn on the left front panel of a tailcoat. The upper edge of the ribbon should be approximately two centimetres above the breast pocket. They must all be attached to the same fastener to keep them aligned. If there is only one, it should be attached halfway between the sleeve seam and the centre of the torso. Either full- size or miniature decorations may be worn with white tie – this is mentioned in the invitation. No pocket handkerchief is worn with decorations.

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- Doctoral hat and sword -

Doctors from Lappeenranta University of Technology – Doctors of Science in Technology or Economics and Business Administration and Doctors of Philosophy – receive a black doctoral hat. In addition to a hat, Doctors of Science in Economics and Business Administration and Doctors of Philosophy also receive a sword. The doctoral regalia are the doctoral hat and sword.

The proper way to store the hat and sword is in their original boxes. They should be handled with care and due respect. Only the recipients of the regalia are allowed to wear them.

The colours of hats received from other faculties in .

DEGREE HAT

Doctor of Science (Technology) Black, bent brim

Doctor of Science (Economics and Black Business Administration)

Doctor of Philosophy Black

Doctor of Education Black

Doctor of Medicine Green

Doctor of Dental Science Green (Turku ) (black)

Doctor of Science (Health Care) Black

Doctor of Arts (Art and Design) Bright blue

Doctor of Theology Purple (Åbo Akademi University) (black)

Doctor of Law Burgundy

Doctor of Sport Sciences Dark blue

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-Marshals -

The marshal’s is made of silk or a silk-like fabric, and it is usually blue and white. Its width is approximately 25–35 cm and its length 2.5 m. The sash is never worn in contact with exposed skin.

Men wear a dark suit (please see “Dark Suit”, page 3). The sash is worn over the right shoulder and under the left arm.

Women wear a festive suit (please see “Women’s Semi-Formal Daytime Attire”/Conferment, page 5), which is black. The skirt is at least knee-length and the neckline is high. A white top is worn under the jacket. The sash is worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm.

HAT Marshals wear a student .

HOSIERY Black, sheer, high-quality hosiery. Colour: solid or nude.

SHOES Simple, black pumps.

WATCH An unassuming, simple wrist-watch.

JEWELLERY No ornate jewellery. A simple pearl or gold necklace may be worn.

DECORATIONS No decorations are worn with the marshal's sash.