2 3 EditorialEdito Fez,Nichée spiritual capital of the Kingdom of Morocco Ranked as «World Heritage of Humanity», by Unesco, Fez is also a prized destination thanks to its touristic infrastructures, its renowned gastronomy, its relaxation centres, its medina and its year-round rich cultural life. A city of memory, Fez is home of an amazing Fès,First ville des cultural and historic heritage : mosques, capital of the medersas, palaces, ryads, foundouks, gates, Kingdom in 808 museums, mausoleums, universities, squares, under the reign of fountains, galleries, souks and craft art bazaars… Moulay Idriss II, a spiritual and This guidebook will help you discover the many cultural centre assets of this city, founded in 808 by Moulay of traditional Idriss II. The city Fez is a perfect combination Morocco, Fez is a of tradition and modernity, while offering the many faced city visitor a unique urban setting, a real open-sky of incomparable museum with its medina, its ramparts and magnificence. gardens. The region of Fez Meknes also offers numerous exploring possibilities and socio-cultural activities (waterfalls, lakes, spas, cedar forests, moussems, etc…) Fez remains the city where berber people and arabo-andalusian populations met and where Muslims, Jews and Christians lived, and still live, together in tolerance and total harmony. Tourists, businessmen, holidaymaking, families, city breakers, will all find in Fez and region a privileged venue for relaxation, meetings, work, shopping and discovery. This is what we will try to present in this issue of the Tourist Guidebook. Enjoy your holiday. 4 5 Contents Fez Tourist Guide • Editorial 3 • Fez, the oldest imperial city 6 • History 8 • Fez El Bali… a timeless city 11 • Fez Jdid… following the Merinides’tracks 23 • Fez… the new city 26 • Tour 28 • Fez, the city of knowledge, art and culture 34 • Ziyarates Fez 44 • The medina of Fez shines again 46 • Meknes, the Moroccan “Versailles” 48 • Historical Monuments 49 • History of Meknes 50 • Exploring the region of Fez 52 • Ecotourism 55 • Festivals, moussems, concerts and exhibitions 58 • Cultural diary of Fez 65 • Gastronomy 66 • Spirituality 67 • Sports and discovery 68 • Fitness and relaxation 74 • Shopping in Fez 78 • Fez by night (where to go) 80 • Accommodation in Fez and region 81 Tourism Directory 83 • Lodging 84 • Fez by night 91 • Restaurants 92 • Travel agencies and tour operators 94 • Transport 96 • Culture 100 • Sports and discovery 102 • Fitness and relaxation 103 • Useful information 104 6 Fez, the oldest imperial city Nested in a vallery at the foot of the Middle Atlas Mountains, Fez, the prestigious home of Muslim civilization, and cradle of Berber culture and Arabs of Andalusia, fascinates by its historic wealth, the medieval medina of Fez El Bali, its magnificent monuments and its fabulous homes, its medieval medina, the beauty of its monuments and the splendor of its historic homes. Fez, the city of Arabian Nights, Founded at the end of the 8th century by historic, spiritual Idriss II, this ancient city is one of the oldest and cultural capital cities of Islam. Once dubbed the «Athens of Morocco, is a of Africa», Fez has since its creation been must for lovers of depicted and idolized by poets, historians culture, history and and chroniclers such as Ibn Khaldoun, Leon hispano-moorish l’Africain… and it has hosted numerous architecture. scholars from Andalusia such as Ibn Tofail and Ibn Rochd (Averroes) and Maimonide. The intellectual fame of its Koranic university, its renowned mosque Quaraouyine, its Arabo-Andalusian style monuments, have in the course of time transformed Fez into the religious and cultural centre of Morocco. Its monuments, its walls, the medieval design of its narrow and winding streets, its mosques, palaces, fondouks and medersas 6 7 (theological schools) which since 1981, this museum- have emerged over a period city has managed to preserve of twelve centuries of history, its traditions over time are all equally ornamented : (liFeztyles, mores, customs, carved wood, chiseled bronze, etc.) while becoming a zelliges (multi-colored tiles), modern and very active tourist moucharabiehs (wooden city with its palaces, hotels, arabesque windows), columns golf courses, restaurants, spas, and carved plaster. All this entertainment and shows… art is the evidence of the creative genius and know-how It is now an inevitable stop for of Moroccan artists - highly- lovers of history and hispano- talented craftsmen, from the moorish architecture and Orient and Andalusia. for those looking for a real Ranked as «Universal Heritage change of scenery at the gates of Humanity» by Unesco of Europe. 8 History At the end of the 7th century, fleeing the Abassides hegemony in Baghdad, Idriss 1st, descendant of Prophet Sidna Mohammed (Peace be upon Him), took refuge among the Berbers of Central Morocco. Supported by many tribes who declared him King of Morocco, in 789 AD he founded his capital on the right bank of Oued El Jawahir (which later became Oued Fez). When he died, his son Idriss II completed the work on the left bank The dynasties of the Oued and decided in 809 to establish succeeded one the seat of the dynasty there. This city became another in Fez, leaving as legacies the first Islamic city in the country. A few magnificent palaces, years later, it welcomed hundreds of political mosques, gardens refugees from Andalusia, Cordoba. That and medersas… population was strengthened by the influx of That’s how Fez Jews from Andalusia and seven years later, by has rapidly become 300 families of craftsmen and traders from the religious and Kairouan (now Tunis). Fez El Bali is built cultural centre around the famous mosque of Quaraouyine in Morocco. and other religious, cultural and architectural heritage. Under the reign of the Almoravides, especially that of Youssef Ben Tachfine, Fez went through a cultural and artistic development crowned by the construction of the College of Almoravide patients, a medersa doted with a 9 library, and by the reopening new equipment : foundouks, of the Saharan gold trail. In fountains, public baths, the mid-12th century, the furnaces, mills, bridges, etc… Almohade Sultan Abd El Fez would then know its Moumen took over the city golden age in the early 14th «visited by travelers from all century. In the second half of over the world». the 15th century, the city was Its inhabitants traded with hit by the unrest prevailing Spain, Central Maghreb, the in the kingdom at the end Sahara, the Orient and even of the Merinide dynasty. Fez with some Christian countries. was affected by the advent of The city was then thriving. In the new dynasty Beni Wattas 1250, Fez became once again in 1471, and the arrival of the capital of the Merinid Muslims and Jews expelled eEmpire for two centuries. from Spain in 1492, and With the Merinide dynasty, indirectly by the arrival of the Fez was at the height of its Portuguese in the Atlantic glory. The Merinide rulers harbors. created a new city called Al - In 1666, Moulay Rachid Medina Al - Bayda (the white restored order, gave a boost city), from where they exerted to trade and once again chose their power. Another name Fez as the capital. After a was given, «Fez El Jdid» in long period of turmoil in the opposition to «Fez El Bali». first half of the 18th century, They introduced the new the city regained its peace and official institution, namely prestige. the medersa, meant to spread In competition with the the Malekite doctrine and burgeoning economic activity to form a team of officials of Casablanca in the 19th for Justice, Administration century, Fez kept its religious, and Government. Finally, intellectual and commercial they provided the city with influence. 10 The Idrisside Kingdom After the death of Sidna as the new «cherif» (title given Mohammed (Peace be upon to the descendants of the Him) in 632, several endless Prophet, Peace be upon Him) succession wars punctuated in 809: the first Moroccan the history of Islam. dynasty was born. Idriss II Fratricidal war was waged continued his father’s work. by Idriss Ben Abdellah, a He exerted his authority on descendant of Fatima and other regions and provided his Ali (daughter and son-in- kingdom with an organized law of Sidna Mohammed, State. Fez was proclaimed the Peace be upon Him) against capital and hosted numerous the Abassides of Baghdad. immigrants from Cordoba In order to escape from the and Kairouan who turned bloody reprisals of Calife the city into an intellectual Haroun Al Rachid, Idriss and spiritual mecca. Idriss II took refuge in Morocco, in died in 828, his descendants the city of Walili (Volubilis). questioned their father’s The recently-Islamized Berber unification policy. tribes, enthralled by that pious scholar, proclaimed him Although weakened by their leader and imam (788). endless wars of succession, the The alliance was sealed by Idrissides were declared Calife the marriage of Idriss with a of Cordoba at the beginning Berber princess, Lalla Kenza. of the 11th century. Haroun was so furious when However, the division of he learnt about the creation Spain caused their decline of this independent kingdom and their end in 1055, date that he had Idriss 1st poisoned when Sijilmassa was stormed in 791. His posthumous son by reformist conquerors, the Idriss II was then recognized Almoravides. 11 Fez El Bali… a timeless city A medieval city founded in 809 by the Idrissides, «Fez El Bali» is the cradle of Berber and Arabo-Andalusian culture and is the historic hub of the city and of the kingdom Today, with its neighbourhoods, souks, mosques, medersas and buildings, Fez houses a unique heritage. There are different routes for discovering Fez El Bali. We recommend that you walk across the history of the city through three main Strolling gates - Bab Boujloud, Bab Ftouh or Bab El in the medina, Ghissa.