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Maó 1021 SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN recently signedacease-fire. group ETA, who, atthetime of writing, had traffic-related deaths, terrorist and theBasque todecrease controlandan effort ages, traffic andchronictic violence,drought water short- female ministers maleministers. andeight parityinhiscabinet,appointingeight tablish withdraw SpanishtroopsfromIraq and toes- immediately; someof hisfirst actionswere to Madrid. Theyoungpresident made waves days after the11March in terrorist attacks Zapatero. waselected in2003,just Zapatero figurehead, President JoséLuísRodríguez by theSocialistParty of Spain(PSOE)andits world’s fastest-growing economies. launching the euro. NowSpainhasoneof the NATO, andin1999itmetthecriteria for European Communityin1986. constitution drafted in1978.Spainjoinedthe The first electionswere heldin1977andanew transition fromdictatorship todemocracy. widely credited withhaving overseen Spain’s hissuccessor.Carlos is KingJuanCarlos the fastest-growing economyinEurope. try begantorecover. Bythe1970sSpainhad wasn’t untilthe1950sand’60sthatcoun- Spain isolated andcrippledbyrecession. It Franco’s 35-yeardictatorship beganwith an estimated 350,000Spaniardshaddied. foreign leftists.By1939Francohadwonand from theInternational Brigades,madeupof degree,port onlyfromRussia and,toalesser elected Republicangovernment received sup- whilethe andfascistItaly, Nazi Germany Franco, received heavy supportfrom military Francisco the Nationalists,ledbyGeneral of theSpanishempire. American Warof 1898,which marked theend would culminate Spanish- withthedisastrous empires. Spain’sdownfallbegansoonafter. It wealth, whiledestroyingtheancientAmerican thatyieldedSpainenormous and exploitation Spain. Thissparked aperiodof exploration andclaimedtheAmericasfor the Bahamas the completionof theReconquista. of Granadasurrendered tothem,thusmarking the Inquisition.In1492lastMuslimruler other non-Christiansunderthedarkcloudof expelled andexecuted of thousands Jews and 1022 Also in1492,Columbusstumbledon Important issues these daysinclude domes- issuesthese Important The forward-thinkingSpainof todayisled In 1997Spainbecamefullyintegrated into Franco diedin1975,having namedJuan During theSpanishCivilWar(1936–39), SPAIN ••TheCulture around Madrid andinsouthernSpain, SPORT SPORT the atheists.’ ‘Heresaid, inSpainweare even allCatholics, grained intheculture. As thewriter Unamuno churchgoers, in- isdeeply butCatholicism ville (702,500). (1.59 million),Valencia (796,550)andSe- Madrid Barcelona (3.15millionpoeple), from acrosstheglobe. Thebiggest citiesare Arabsand20th-centuryimmigrants Berbers, Romans,Jews,Iberians, Celts, Visigoths, heresettled over themillennia,amongthem cended fromthemanypeopleswhohave Spain has apopulationof 40million,des- THE CULTURE sightful portraits. Thegeniussightful of the18thand most revered painter. Bothexcelled within- Crete) andDiegoVelázquez, perhaps Spain’s were Toledo-based ElGreco (originallyfrom The giantsof Spain’sgoldenage (1550–1650) ARTS must beapersonal decision. thisoftenyou wanttosee disturbingtradition until thedayof theslaughter. Whetherornot that and defeated. Yet supporters of this‘art’say ful 30minutes thatleaves thebullexhausted out reason, thattheslaughterisacruel,pain- groupsargue,raging. Animal-rights notwith- isstill The ethicaldebate aboutbullfighting where festivals. itispresent atallimportant two teams. RealMadridbetween Spain’stop andBarça, loyal bandof followers, the greatest rivalryis cityhasatleastoneteamWhile every withits Spain’s nationalsportisfootball(soccer). Bullfighting isalsopopular,especiallyBullfighting Only about20%of Spaniardsare regular events, pickup For more onSpanishhistoryandcurrent READING UP cludes James A Michner’s classic cludes JamesAMichner’s by JohnHooper. Goodtravel literature in- by JuanLalagunaor by Peter BushandLisaDillman. Traveller’s Literary Companion:Spain, a feel formodernSpanishliterature with Guide: Spain, the excellentbookofessays toros bravos edited byLucy McCauley. Get (wildbulls)live like kings A Traveller’s History:Spain The NewSpaniards Travellers’ Tales lonelyplanet.com Iberia edited and A
% 60 00) through through andotherairports canbefound about these etchings. traits andanguished warscenestobullfight versatility ranged fromunflattering royalpor- 19th centurieswasFranciscoGoya,whose lonelyplanet.com (code ZAZ; carrier Ryanairflys to Málaga becheaperit might toflyinto Coming fromtheUKorelsewhere inEurope 353 570) probably landineither you’re flyinginfrombeyondEuropeyou’ll Spain hasmanyinternational airports,butif Air THERE&AWAY GETTING TRANSPORT threaten plantandanimallife. firesdustrial effluent, andhuntingallstill agriculturalandin- housing developments, overgrazing, creation, tourism, reservoir areas, including10nationalparks.However, Spain nowhas25,000sqkmof protected leaps andboundsinthepast25years and range of all–theSierraNevada. across Andalucía,oneof which isthehighest border;andthreePortuguese east–westchains fromnorth of MadridCentral, towardsthe middle Mediterranean coast;theCordillera Ibérico, fromthecentralnorthtowards brica, backingthenortherncoast;Sistema border withFrance;theCordilleraCantá- aremain mountains thePyrenees, alongthe countryafter Switzerland.The second-hilliest chains,eral mountain makingSpainEurope’s meseta more thanhalfof the tableland, which ishigh sula andspreads over some505,000sqkm, The countrycovers 84%of theIberianPenin- ENVIRONMENT sculptorEduardoChillida.and Basque abstractartistAntoniTàpies include Catalan artistsworkingtoday Salvador Dalí.Important colourful symbolistJoanMiróandsurrealist prolific Pablo Picasso(borninAndalucía),the 20th-century Spanish art,claimingthehugely 95 0213700) Catalonia was the powerhouse of wasthepowerhouse early- Catalonia Conservation efforts have efforts improved by Conservation , Reus
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( % h , the h , theatmosphericold 97 1301900;www.illesbalears 8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am- 8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, Balearia 10am-2pm & 6-8pmMon-Sat, cathedral
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SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN 00; www.pacha.com; Av 8d’Agost) value food is served atthispopulartavern. value foodisserved side of IbizaCity’sport; Rey 4) Carrer delesAlzines) a bargain. -ibiza.es) of itsboats); and the water fromthetowncentre (hop onone IbizaNueva) Puerto 83 38;www.eldivino-ibiza.com; Av DrFleming) Es Paradis Terrenal ( 119 8041;www.amnesia-ibiza.com; CtraSanAntonio) UrbSan Rafael) 86; www.privilege.es; atthetouristoffice inIbiza.details until6am.Check in summerfrommidnight thatoperates there’s ahandy Discobus service €50 ormore forentry.Toget totheclubs, to thesuperclubs,allof which charge ahefty the bars aroundtheport,mostvisitors head dusk-to-dawn clubbers. After afew drinksat performers hired bythesuperclubstolure of cobbledstreets, dodgingtheoutrageous PR studded swingers wanderthefashioncatwalk designer-chicAt night, couplesandseriously Ibiza’s summernightlife isworldrenowned. Entertainment viewshereThe sunset are justlyfamous. that itfeatures onitsfamouschillout albums. bient music(amixof classical,bluesandjazz) priceydrinksandplayingtheam- still serving ( DJ after 4pm. 130 4569;ViaPúnica12; Bliss The mostpopularisprobably thelaid-back the bars liningthelively PlaçadelParque. drink andsomepeople-watching atoneof 5kmfromIbizacity. Josep, on tothesuperclubs.It’sroadSan dance anddrinkinthegardensbefore moving location, thisiswhere cometo theglamset San José5; 8;mains€6-12; de Montgri the morning. Nicole Richie isabitmuch totake early in France, butthepaintingof Paris Hiltonand 1056 % % In SanAntonio,thefamous KM5 Comidas-Bar SanJuan The big-nameclubsare witha theevening Nothing beatsstarting Scenicus Cerveceria 97 1342551;www.edenibiza.com; Av DrFleming) 971 342516;Carrer deVara delRey;
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97 1346600;www.esparadis.com; ( h plato deldía Named after its highway Namedafter itshighway % ( 9am-3pm) %
( % . Nearby Mon-Sat) 97 1316074;Paseo Vara de Privilege 97 1311603;Carrer Guillem 97 1396793;www.space , onthenorthern Pacha El Divino , has an in-house has anin-house Hearty, good- Amnesia h
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2pm Sat) 39 90;www.infomallorca.net; the telephone annexe of the cheapest internet access intownisoffered in there are thegorgeous beaches… unchanged forcenturies.Andthen seemingly beforetains stumblingacrossahilltopvillage themselves trekkinghappily lose inthemoun- scene, isajoytoexplore. Inland,visitors can its attractive buildingsanditsrich cultural their home.cityof Thecapital Palma, with to make thisbeguilingMediterranean island so manygreat artistsandwriters have chosen It’s hardlysurprisingthatover thedecades pop 741,000 MALLORCA JET on a of Formentera. Tickets costaround€20return IbizaCityandtheneighbouring island tween Macabich. ofthe series busstopsalongAv d’Isidoro tootherpartsofBuses theislandleave from to 11.50pminsummer(€1.20,15minutes). 30minutesand IbizaCityevery from7.20am the runbetween Buses Around Getting and Saturdaynights. and Pacha are open,andthenonlyonFriday ( work should visitthe century artistssuch asMiróand Picasso. art. Itscollection includes worksfrom20th- ofstriking museum modernandcontemporary Jun,10am-midnightdaily16Jun-Sep) Oct-15 Santa Catalina;adult/student€6/4.50; Baluard; overlooks the cityanditsport. 10am-2.15pmSatyear-round,closedSun) Jun-Sep, Mon-Fri 10am-6.15pm &Oct, Apr-May 10am-5.15pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar, child under10yr€3.50/2.80/free; Seu; ing buttresses, Palma’s landmark An awesomemassof wallsandfly- sandstone Sights &Activities 11am-midnightSat,noon-11pmSun). Mon-Fri, (Carrer delaConstituciò6,Palma; perhr€1.50; % The OctoberandAprilonlyElDivino Between The Plenty of ferries make dailyshort tripsbe- Those wanting to see even more even of wantingto see Those Miró’s % 97 170 14 20; Carrer Joan de Saridakis 29;adult/student/ 97 1701420; Carrer JoandeSaridakis (fast ferry). buque % isonPlaçadelaReinainPalma. The 97 1723130;Carrer delPalau 29;adult/student/ Reial Museo de Arte ModernoyContemporáneo deArte Museo Consell de Mallorca tourist office tourist Consell deMallorca 97 190 82 00; www.esbaluard.org; Plaça Porta de de 97 1908200;www.esbaluard.org;PlaçaPorta (slowferry) and€33.50ona Fundació Pilar IJoanMiró h airport airport h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, h 10am-3.15pm Mon-Fri 10am-3.15pm Mon-Fri lonelyplanet.com main postoffice ( 10am-8pm Tue-Sun 10am-8pm Tue-Sun % isPalma’s cathedral h 97 1809000) (
% 10am-11pm 97 117 línea- (La (Es (Es
.tramuntana-pursuits.com) Plaça delaReina. bus 3fromPlaçad’Espanyaor6 bouring Apuntadores. Roomsare extremely the Ritziismuch friendlierthantheneigh- fortable beds. The best thing about the place beds. Thebestthingaboutfortable theplace painted roomswithhandbasinsanduncom- ern Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com weekend-long beach parties. is alaid-back haven of naked swimmingand author RobertGraves lived for mostof his year-round) 10am-3pmSun 10am-7pmTue-Sat Apr-Sep, Tue-Sat Oct-Mar, child €4.80/2.60/free, cameraorvideo€5; lonelyplanet.com .net; Carrer C’anBrondo1; s/d€50/60,s/twwithshared bath- hire (€10perday). a book-swapcollection andmountain-bike a smallcommunal lounge withsatellite TV, venue forcandlelit meals( in thecute thisisthe diningroomandatnight basic butclean.Agenerous breakfast isserved €30/45) Carrer Apuntadores 6;s/dwithshared bathroominclbreakfast Breakfast €3.50and€5.50. costsbetween €2.75). drinkinsummer(beer for anevening view of thecathedralandisawonderfulspot is theroof terrace, which hasaspectacular €30/45) .com; Carrer Apuntadores 8;dm€20,s/dwithshared bathroom Hostal Apuntadores PALMA Sleeping including instructors andequipment. and walking.Priceshover around€85perday, kayaking,canyoning ing climbing,caving, sea adventure activitiesaroundtheisland,includ- to life. Fromthevillage, youcanscrambledown ful hill-topvillage of on Mallorca. village of for yourself to base right ). Sólleristhebestplaceonisland island isthetripon tion of theisland,are wellworthavisit. remaining monumenttotheMuslimdomina- h baths; Hostal Ritzi From Sóller,it’sa10kmwalktothebeauti- One of themostpopularexcursions onthe butatmospheric The disused Tramuntana Pursuits Hostal Brondo Cala deDeiá Cala 9am-7.30pm Apr-Nov,9am-6pmDec-Mar) hostal % Right inthecentre Right of town, thismod- RunbyanenthusiasticEnglishchap, 97 172 15 49; Carrer Ca’n Sera 7;admission€1.50; 97 1721549;Carrer Ca’nSera , westof thecity.Toget here catch hasaninstitutionalairandfreshly Fornalutx
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% 97 171 46 10; www.hostalritzi.com; 97 1714610;www.hostalritzi.com; is said tobetheprettiest issaid offers arange of guided 97 1719043; www.hostalbrondo 97 1713491;www.palma-hostales Deiá trekking
( % Palma–Sóller train , where and thepoet 0034 635891308;www menú andthenearby banys Árabs €10).There’s h , theonly 10am-6pm (Arab (Arab (see (see
celona every 20minutes.every to thecentre viatheferry terminal (€1.10) Espanya totheairport(€1.80)andthenback 10km eastof Palma. Bus 1 runsfromPlaça Sant Joanairport Around Getting Plaça deGomila. around Passeig Marítim, Av deJoanMiróand cramped butenjoyable live musicvenue. €4; Atlantico wheninPalma.ercise It’sworththesplurge. Mallorcan cuisineonoffer isanobligatory ex- theexcellenttraditional benches and sampling Jul-Aug) Mon-Fri del BisbeBerenguer dePalau 8;menú€20-24; four-course vegetarian Mon-Sat; Palma’s centralproducemarket. del’Olivar Mercat If you’re puttingtogether apicnic,gotothe PALMA Eating &Drinking monasteries) aroundtheisland. inexpensive estates), tion onaccommodationin Palma (see opposite ) cansupply informa- deMallorcaThe Consell touristofficein AROUND THEISLAND and balconiesfrontingthestreet. simple room €30/45) The island’s nightclubs areThe island’snightclubs intheportarea Good late-night drinkingdensinclude Bon Lloc Restaurant Cellar SaPremsa Cellar Restaurant at yourown (considerable)risk. gage ata thefts inrecent times. Ifyoudoleave lug- loath tolookafter bags duetoaspate of the islandand trip. There are noleft-luggage facilitieson ferries orwhenonanovernight camping their luggagewhilewaitingforflights/ problems iftheyneedasafe spottoleave visitingPalmaBackpackers willencounter LATE LAMENTED LUGGAGE h
Café JazzClub Café 8.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, &Sat) 8.30pm-3amFri n hostal
(Carrer SantFeliu 12; pequeñnos ( ) % RunbyanEnglish couple,this This popular place serves ahearty Thispopularplaceserves hostal, Sittingatoneof thistavern’s long ermites irefugis 97 1718617;Carrer deSanFeliu 7; has rooms with high ceilings hasroomswithhigh (
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h % isapproximately 8pm-4am) (hermitages and (hermitages inPalma are fincas (€15). 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) 97 1723529;Plaça h (country and daily Sep-Jun, h 1057 Bar- , a lunch
, SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN 136 3790;[email protected]; Carrer desaRovellada Spanish; camp sites per person/tent/electricity €6.30/4.10/4; Spanish; camp sitesperperson/tent/electricity S’atalaia Menorca’s twocampinggrounds are Sleeping windsurfers. town of beaches. secluded eight at leads tothelighthouse North of Maó, adrive acrossalunar landscape of Menorca’s beaches. off-the-beaten-track footwork, you’llbeable todiscover some asfarMallorca.clear dayyoucansee Toro has amore distinctlySpanish feel. withitssmaller harbour butCiutadella, traffic mute tothebeaches. Maó gets alotof tourist From Maó you’llhave andCiutadella tocom- Sights &Activities perhr€3.50; 26 89;Carrer Nou25,Maó; internet access headto Ciutadella de Dalt24; island’s second-largest town,Ciutadella. Amainroadleadsfromittothe Castilian. you’re lookingfor. bejustwhat significant landscapes,itmight ing archaeological sites andenvironmentally populated beach, andfancytheideaof explor- aspotonpristineandsparselyyou’re seeking your agenda, thisislandisn’tforyou.Butif ics. Ifnightlife andadventure sportsare on Menorca of istheleastdeveloped theBalear- pop 77,000 MENORCA one hour)ontheother. make thetriptoSóller(oneway/return €9/14, (€3.70) ononeline;andfive trainsperday of Inca(€1.80),SaPobla (€2.85)andManacor There totheinlandtowns are regular services from thenearby .es; PlaçaEspanya) or nearthe bus fromPalma. generally departfrom These 1058 Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm&6-10pmSatSun) Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) 1.30pm &5-7pmMon-Fri, Most partsof theislandare accessibleby On thenortherncoast,picturesque With yourowntransportandabitof In thecentre of theisland,357m The main Maó,The capital, isknownasMahón in hasgreat viewsof thewholeisland;ona VALENCIA &MURCIA (
% h Fornells ( % 97 1382693;PlaçalaCatedral5; 9am-1.30pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat); 9am-1.30pm &5-7pmMon-Fri, bus station 97 1374232; www.campingsatalaia.com, in . Mallorca’s twotrainlinesleave municipal isonalarge baypopular with train station (
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tourist office tourist Ciber Principal 97 1177777;http://tib.caib Cap deFaváritx Cap
( isinMaó. For . % h 97 1752245). 9.30am-10pm
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% Camping Camping
( 9.30am- % Monte Monte 97 136 and 97
wood-fired oven. This popularpizzeriamakes of gooduse its and welllocated. and stripysofas, Orsi is(very) clean bright, Claustre delCarme. Voltes deses andtheMercatthe topof Casta atmospheric musicbarinalanewaybetween Martin’s Pub Martin’s CIUTADELLA h at thiseatery. fishdishesand earth tapas, lunch&dinnerSat) Fri, Casanova MAÓ lined withbars andrestaurants. The portsinbothMaó are andCiutadella Eating &Drinking with shared bathroom€23/38) dwithshower€45-47,s/d .com; Carrer delaInfanta19,Maó; Nov-Mar) €7.10/4/3.90; camp sitesperperson/tent/electricity SonBou Camping Galdana, about 4km southof Ferreries; and h to get areal feel fortheregion. of thevisitors, butventure beyond theshore of Blanca(White theCosta Coast)drawmost of Spainapopular destination.Thebeaches resortsabundance of seaside make thisarea A warmclimate, interesting citiesandan VALENCIA &MURCIA from bothMaó andCiutadella. tomostof towns thecoastal daily busservices the southerncoast.Insummerthere are also casional connectionstothemajor resorts on Maóbetween (€3.75),withoc- andCiutadella 10.15pm; tickets cost€1.50. from5.45amto into Maó half-hour every runfrom Buses Around Getting Spanish techno onoffer. andloud you’ll soonbesoakingupthebeer spilling outof thistinybaronto thelaneand TMSA Café Mirador El Muelle Posada Orsi 10am-2am Mon-Sat) closed Nov-Mar) , nearSonBou,southof Alaior.
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(Moll de Llevant 33;meals€15; (Moll deLlevant 97 1360475;www.e-torres.net) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com
(Costa d’esMoll20) 97 1354169;AndénPoniente15;pizzas€7)
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% (971 372727;www.campingsonbou.com; (
Localsswearbythedown-to- % , neartheresorts of Santa Mahon 97 1364751;posadaorsi@hotmail You’ll findthissmalland 97 1352107;Plaçad’Espanya9; A riotof acidcolours
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Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Reina 19; Reina Valencia chaotic isafriendly,ifslightly city. Grail andthehostof the2007America’sCup, The birthplaceof paella,thehomeof theHoly pop 796,550 VALENCIA lonelyplanet.com ered gardenandthePalau ReinaSofía per- L’Hemisféric IMAXtheatre, L’Umbracle cov- aquarium, thePrínipeFelipe sciencemuseum, plex of includingL’Oceanográfic museums h 210 0031;www.cac.es; adult€7.20-28.80,student€5.60-21.60; stunning the Vatican. Thetourcosts€3. Supper. It’stheonlyHolyGrailrecognised by intheLast chalice used Christsupposedly the is theHolyGrailChapel,which houses obligatory guidedtour10am-6.30pm) Renaissance visit totheRomanesque-Gothic-Baroque- Don’t leave Valencia withoutmakinga Sights &Activities offices Tourist Post office deInternet Ono Centro Information Plaza delaVirgen. thePlazadelaReinaand Ayuntamiento, nightlife. Otherkey areas are thePlazadel oldest quarter, forquirkyshops andthebest charm.combines oldandnewwitheffortless city, butit’sanextremely walkableplacethat dant park),Valencia maybeSpain’sthird-largest transformedintoawonderfullyver-has been riverbed thenowdryRíoTuria(whose Hugging Vicente 22;perhr€2-3; valencia.es; CallePaz 48; Mon-Fri); Mon-Fri); 24; Valencia’s architectural prideandjoy,the Head Valencia’s delCarmen, totheBarrio ages, are torched inthemain plaza. many ofthempolitical andsocialperson- ing. Onthefinalnight,giant music, festive bonfires andall-nightparty- is engulfed byananarchicswirloffireworks, Las Fallas deSanJosé come oneofEurope’s wildeststreet parties: In mid-March,Valencia hostswhathasbe- BURN BABY BURN h 10am-9pm, checkindividualmuseumtimes) 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pmSat) 8.30am-8.30pmMon-Fri, h Plaza delaReina ( Ciudad de las Artes ylasCiencias Ciudad delasArtes % 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-2pmSun) cathedral Calle Paz 96 3512370;PlazadelAyuntamiento VALENCIA ••Valencia &MURCIA h h ( ( % % ( 9-1am)
(Plaza Reina; (Plaza Reina; % 9am-2.30pm &4.30-8pm . Foroneweekthecity 96 3153931;Plazadela 96 3986422;www.turis 96 3281902;CalleSan . Mostinteresting niñots h (effigies), 7.30am-8pm, isacom- (
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90 feast of colours andsmells,withnearly1000 individually designeddoublerooms. Calle Cadirers 11;dinclbreakfast €40; and burgers. Utielana. It’s next doortoLa loud wait tosavour thelocalflavour. chaotic yethomeyspot.Take anumberand fish dishesmeanthere’s alwaysalineatthis €3.75-6.75) onthesunnyplaza.tables café,which hasafew atthisscruffy staples €1.25-6.25) modernist glass domes. stallholders crammedunderthemarket’s Central Mercado per person. for about upthereal €12 stuff serve taurants just northof theport,where astripof res- Arenas,For authenticpaella,headforLas Eating Hôme Hôme Backpackers Pensión Paris two otherHôme is pure backpackingheaven. Theowners run laundryfacilities,thisplace andeven stash painted rooms,bigkitchen, healthyDVD room from€20/19/17/15; home.net; CalleLonja4;s/d/tr/qperpersonwithshared bath- rants, tennis aminizoo. courtsandeven Saler beach. Thecomplexincludesrestau- ground is13kmsouthof Valencia, nearEl car €5.25/4.75/5.25; .com, inSpanish;CtraElSalerkm13;campsitesperperson/tent/ Gardens Devesa Sleeping there enade. Get on thetram(see p1060 ). east of townandislinedwithapretty prom- Plaza delAyuntamiento. forming artscentre. fromthe Bus35goes location. d withshared bath€30-35) Sunnyandcleaninapeaceful com; CalleSalvá12;d€38,swithshared bath€20, dorm rooms. andclean twobigterraces,ahugekitchen Themed parties, home.net; PlazaVicenteIborra;dmfrom€12; La Utielana Bar ElKiosko One of Spain’sprettiest markets, Valencia’s Hôme YouthHostel Valencia’s beach, the Also recommended: Nam cafetería
Deluxe Deluxe
( % Tasty are friedfish andtapas the Amazinglycheap stews, riceand 96 3514837;CalleSanAndrés 4;mains€4-8) ( (
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( (Plaza Mercado; (Plaza Mercado; s % 96 392 46 91; www.likeathome.net; 96 3924691;www.likeathome.net; 96 3526766;www.pensionparis. 96 3529414;CalleSanAndrés4;mains (
hostels (see below). hostels (see 96 3910159;CalleDerechos 38;mains % Thecity’snearest camping ) 96 1611136;www.devesagardens ni
( 96 3913797;www.likeat % Playa delaMalvarrosa 96 3916229;www.likeat ) With its brightly Withitsbrightly h ni 8am-2.30pm) ni ) Stylish, 1059 isa
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A , lies , lies SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN A stalwart of barscene,withlotsof A stalwart Carmen’s Vieja 2) (Saint Barbara Castle; century, the imposing fortressA multilevel datingfromthe 12th Sights &Activities Teniente Álvarez Soto8;perhr€1.65-2.70; internet access at 10am-2pmSat) Mon-Fri, 17; www.alicanteturismo.com; CallePortugal that makes agreat one-ortwo-daystopover. Alicante isthekindof all-in-oneSpanish city nightlife sceneandeasy-to-accessbeaches, lively With itselegant,palm-linedboulevards, pop 312,391 ALICANTE outer suburbs. the and theport.Metro linesprimarilyserve the beach, thepaellarestaurants Arenas of Las waytoget It’sapleasant the PontdeFusta. to 500mnorthoftram station, thecathedral,at Ayuntamiento. withPlazaBus 8connectsthebusstation untilaround1am. services 10pm, withnight EMT Around Getting Islands(see Balearic p1054 ). other destinations. from Madrid, andAlicante, among Barcelona Estación delNorte Alicante (€24.50,1½hours). FromValencia’s three hours), (€37,three Barcelona hours) and 22; Av Pidal) Menéndez fromthe Daily services &Away There Getting hall. There’s occasionallylive flamenco. andcheesy popatthispopular house to salsa, snacks too. has comfysofas andfree internet. Good eyeing upthecharacters Caballeros. onCalle room upstairs andaparticularlyfineterrace for to glam. men andcaters taste, forevery fromgrunge Much of theactioncentres delCar- onBarrio & Entertainment Drinking 1060 Visit themain tram The high-speed leaves fromtheFGV ferriesRegular carandpassenger gotothe City Radio Lounge Café-Bar Café
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( % 96 3914151;SantaTeresa 19) (
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Considered thebestcampinggroundin per person€3.20-4.75,tent€3.20-7.05,car€3.20-4.75; costablanca.com; CalleConvento143,ElCampello;campsites plaza-side tables. fixed-price lunch, Ibarraboastspicturesque fonso XElSabio) Central Mercado Eating ultramodern design. original stonewalls,antiquefurniture oran Some of theoptions:canopybed,balcony, decorated inthisrenovated 1912building. nai .lesmonges.net; CalleSanAgustín 4;s€27-39,d€41-52; race. Washing machine available. Free accesstokitchen andlovely rooftop ter- some have viewsof María theSanta church. rooms are smallish, but they’re cleanand €20, perpersonwithshared bathroom€15; .hostallamilagrosa.com, in Spanish;CalleVillavieja8;perperson 200m fromthebeach. area, it’s10kmnorthof Alicante andonly CostaBlanca Camping Sleeping beach) tothetop. andtake theelevator beside the Toget here,city andsea. crossthefootbridge 4-6.30pm) admission free; to theairport. towns in the region. Alicante’s citybus 6heads 2½ hours, 12daily). Theyalsomake runsto nine hours, five daily)andValencia (€16.30, to major destinationssuch asMadrid (€24.60, look to At the &Away There Getting mega buzzing area. resorts Nearbycoastal have dral, ispacked withbars. Theportisanother awebofThe Barrio, streets around thecathe- Entertainment €5-10, menú€9) away. There’s asmallorganic foodshoptoo. bar,availablepay-by-weight salad fortake- 44; CalleNavas17;mains€3-5) market isidealforself-caterers. Casa Ibarra Casa Hostal-Pensión LaMilagrosa Hostal LesMongesPalace Biomenú Restaurante Vegetariano Vegetariano Biomenú Restaurante discotecas bus station Alsa affords magnificentviewsover affords the ) Each room has been lovingly roomhasbeen Each
( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Playa delPostiguet TheArtNouveau–styled covered h % Popular withlocalsforitsfilling ( %
(Covered Market; (Covered Market; 10am-7pm, exhibits10.30am-2.30pm& 902 422242;www.alsa.es) popularinsummer.
96 514 5625; Calle Mayor 33;mains 96 5145625;CalleMayor ( %
( % 96 513 07 00; Calle Portugal 17) 96 5130700;CallePortugal Come fortheexcellent 96 5630670;www.camping
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around thecorner. pensión access andniceparquetfloors. Italso runsa Hotel Hispanohasafew perkslike internet Dignified, ifnotfancy,thecleanand central h (€47.40, sixhours, ninedaily),Murcia(€5.40 cia (€24.50,twohours, 11daily),Barcelona (€38.60, fourhours, uptoninedaily),Valen- Locutorio-Internet andmostaretween, smalllike the Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com .es; Av Salamancas/n) lonelyplanet.com Domingo andPlazadelas Flores) and forits best areas totryare PlazaRomeo, PlazaSanto (someofMurcia isknown foritstapas the Eating 3;s€45-52,d€50-68,t€65-80; Murcia .net; CalleRadio nishings andbathrooms. had amajor facelift.Doublesboastnewfur- thisquiet Isabel, Plaza Santa s withshared bath€23; Pensión Murcia Sleeping delosVeléz,Capilla aGothicjewel. includethe92mtowerand Highlights and isahodge-podge of architectural styles. The cathedraltookfourcenturiestobuild vel façade. atitsfabulouslyopulentBaroque h 5-9pm Sun) Cardinal Belluga; ist office ment calledMursiya. City wasfoundedin825asanIslamicsettle- ofThe capital therural Murcia region, Murcia pop 409,800 MURCIA a trainchange inElCampello. to €7.75,2½hours toDénia,hourly)requires deMarThe tripfromthePuerta (up station alongtheway. Altea andBenidorm Joyosa, to Dénia,stoppinginresort townslike Villa (little train)makes thejourneyup coast 04 72;www.fgv.es) Valenciana delaGeneralitat carriles other cities. to €14.60,onehour20minutes, 23daily)and From the Hotel Hispano-2 Hotel Head to the Get moreGet informationatthefriendly For scenic(andslow)travel, trythe 9am-midnight; perhr€1.50) 7am-1pm &5-8pmMon-Sat,7am-1.30pmSun) (singles€24to€27,doubles€38)just
( % . Internet cafésare few andfarbe- 96 8358749;www.murciaciudad.com;Plaza train station h ( % , whose narrow-gauge, whose ANDALUCÍA ••Seville there are services toMadrid there are services
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( ( % % 968 219963;CalleVinadel6;d€53, a 968 216152;www.hotelhispano 968 215282;PlazaCruzRoja1; ) Onasidestreet near (
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seductive, orange-scented embrace. Nothing beatsafew daysspent withinits a localpopulation thatlives life tothefullest. and distinctive festivals, culture, anamazingtapas fascinating it’s hometotwoof Spain’smostcolourful sophisticatedsexy, and gorgeous-looking city, cribing andwe’re happytooblige.Seville, A superlativesIt’s obligatory touse whendes- pop 702,516 SEVILLE arrive inbattalions. days,touristsarethese theonlyvisitors to overfought thissun-drenched partof Spain; In thepast,armiesof Muslimsand Christians ANDALUCÍA hours, three daily). Manga townslike23 daily)andcoastal La (1½ Gran Vía,inthecitycentre. take bus9or39to From thetrainstation, minutes, 12 daily)andotherSpanishcities. (€3.60,50 20 minutes, 23daily),Cartagena daily), Alicante (€5.40to€14.60,onehour Murcia withMadrid (€38.60,fourhours, five Renfe &Away There Getting the regular barscene. making forauniquelySpanishalternative to eral bars are upinsidethebullringitself, set The popular Thursday Saturdaynights. through Villar Enrique Calle The streets aroundtheuniversity, inparticular Drinking corner. barjustaroundthe run aninformaltapas ownerstake onlocalspecialities.Thesame this isacityfixture knownforitsinnovative mains €9-22) concoctions like ‘friedbloodwithonions’. barwherefashioned tapas youcanfeast on isthislocalfavourite, anold- nal Belluga €0.70-4.50, mealsfrom€10) to vegetarians! the region. Finally,aSpanish citythatcaters wonderfully fresh veggies, which are grownin Buses serve Almería (onehour20minutes, serve Buses dePepe El Rincón Los Zagales Plaza deToros
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ὈὈ ὈὈ
Calle de Arjona de Calle
Calle del Betis del Calle AC (Puente deIsabelII) Paradas de Marqués Calle
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Calle de Castelar de Calle C Juan Rabadán Rabadán Juan C
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Plaza de 29 Avenida de Carlos V Carlos de Avenida Sebastián
Santa Calle Levíes Plaza San Cruz Prado deSan D Plaza Ponce
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30
Avenida Menéndez Pelayo de León 9 la Maria Regional Tourist To TrainStation Airport (8.5km) Office (1.5km); Justa) (1.5km);
17 33 Blanca €7.50/2, free Sun; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Airport Justa; 10am-6pm Sat,10am-2pmSun) per hr€2.20; 2pm Sun); h Arjona 28; Municipal tourist office tourist Municipal Internetia Information lonelyplanet.com guided tours €4; 45 77;www.maestranza.com; Paseo Colón12; deCristóbal the riverbank better placetoget lost. plazas eastof Mateus Calle Gago. There’s no ofdral, headforthetangle narrowstreets and Jewish quarter immediately eastof thecathe- To fullyappreciate WALKS &PARKS Francisco Zurbarán. Estebanartists such asBartolemé Murilloand Spanishart,focusingonlocal outstanding Sun) h 9;admissionnon-EU/EUcitizens€1.50/free; 07 90;PlazaMuseo 10.30am to1pm. which are scheduled halfhourfrom every Upper Palace book intooneof thetours of theexquisite but addstoitsfascination.Make sure you since, which makes itamishmash of styles rulers century inalmostevery by Seville’s 913 asaMuslimfortress. adapted Ithasbeen Tue-Sat, 9.30am-5pmSunApr-Sep) 9.30am-7pm 5pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-1.30pmSunOct-Mar, adult/child€7/free; 450 2323;PlazadelTriunfo; alty formanycenturies,Seville’s from the12thcentury. LaGiralda 1401and1507.Theadjoiningtower, between mainmosque on thesite of MuslimSeville’s 3pm Mon-SatJul-Aug,2.30-6pmSunyear-round) cathedral The city’stoweringandlavishly decorated Sights &Activities offices tourist Regional Constitución Sat &Sun) A more walkisalongthe straightforward The fabulous A residence of MuslimandChristianroy- 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm&3-7pmSat,10am- 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 2.30-8.30pm Tue, 9am-8.30pmWed-Sat,9am-2.30pm has a beautifully housed collectionof hasabeautifullyhoused Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza Plaza deToroslaReal h ( % 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pmSat&Sun); 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, h Santa Justa ( and past Seville’s famousbullring, andpastSeville’s ( , wasthemosque’sminaret anddates ( 95 4449128; % % h % 8.15am-8.45pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm 8.15am-8.45pm Mon-Fri, (admission €4, maximum tickets pertour15) (admission €4,maximumtickets h 95 4214971;CalleAlemanes;adult/student 95 4221404;Av delaConstitución21; 10am-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-1amSat&Sun) 10am-1am Mon-Fri, 95 4502543;CalleAv Palayo; Menendez h 9.30am-7pm, 9.30am-3pmbullfightdays) ANDALUCÍA ••Seville ( Museo de Bellas Artes deBellasArtes Museo 11am-5pm Mon-SatSep-Jun, 9.30am- % Barrio deSantaCruz Barrio h 95 4537626;EstaciónSanta ( (www.andalucia.org) % 9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 95 4505600;Callede wasfoundedin Alcázar wasbuilt ( ( h
% % , theold ( 9.30am-
% 95 422 95 422 95 , , long processionscarryingsacred imagesthroughthecity. strange penitents’garbwithtall,pointedhoodsandjoin dress in Sunday, membersofreligious brotherhoods plus dailybullfights. andtraditionaldress, days ofmusic,dancing,horse-riding Otto the West Highland terrier willwelcome Otto the West Highland shared bathroom€30-40, dwithshared bathroom€45-60; mixmail.com; CalleFarnesio 12;s€35-50,d€55-70, swith areBathrooms modern andsparklingclean. linen; thefrontonesare particularlyattractive. floors, ceilingsand bedswithpristine high building. Roomshave hand-painted tiled the 1stfloorof an18th-centuryapartment English/Spanish couple,this €22/38; 1;d€45,s/dwithshared bathroom .com; 1stfl,CallePérez Galdós ceilingsandprettyrooms withhigh décor. cathedral. Goupthesteep stairs todiscover 12 a former15th-centuryconvent tothe close and quirkyinequalparts,theVergara occupies shared bathroom€20-25; CalleXimenezdeEnciso11;perperson with [email protected]; backpacker hostel inthecentre of town. coffee. overpriced, Though it’stheonlytrue terrace and free (24-hour)internet, tea and shared 10beds,aroof bathroomforevery the roomshave air-con. There’s oneclean andoffersold house roomsanddorms;only Suizooccupiesanattractive strip, theNuevo nai €39-43, dwithshared bathroom€49-69,allinclbreakfast; 7;dm€21-25,swithshared bathroom suizo.com; CalleAzofaifo during festivals. full onweekends andisalwaysbooked solid cited here. Thecity’saccommodationisoften rates can beuptodoublethehigh-season Note thatpricesover andFeria Santa Semana Sleeping deAbril Feria Santa Semana Festivals &Events ings cladin ofcanal andsimplydazzlingsemicircle build- magnificent sure outthe andshaded toseek tains lawns.Be with itsmazeof paths, trees, tall flowers, foun- tour here isinEnglishandSpanish. one of theoldestinSpain.The(compulsory) Hostal Córdoba Pensión Vergara Suizo Hostal Nuevo Casa SolyLuna Casa South of thecentre is n ) ) Runbyayoungandvery friendly Near the vibrant Calle SanEloybar NearthevibrantCalle Held in late April, theFeria HeldinlateApril, involvessix azulejo Plaza deEspaña During theweekleadinguptoEaster During
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95 4210682;www.casasolyluna1 ( 95 4227498;hostalcordoba@ % 95 4215668;pensionvergara ) Attractive, welcoming 95 4229147;www.nuevo Parque de María Luisa Parque deMaría , with its fountains, , withitsfountains, pensión occupies 1063 a
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) SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN Calle García Vinuesa) Calle García flock here tositonthetiledrear steps and popularity meter foryears. Localsof allages 31; tapas€1.80-2.25, raciónes€5-18) wines andgood-quality tapas. ever-busy placehasanimpressive of selection 24; tapas€2-4) €1.20 to€1.80)andcheap drinks. catch upover tapas €1.50) food onoffer will. certainly ing, thequalityandpriceof thefresh andtasty music videosdon’tmake youfeel like danc- of thisfriendlycafé.IfthepumpingArabic intheluridlydecorated take aseat shwarma€5) €4, chicken Locals love ittobits. binados and fromearly-morningcoffeeeverything (€1.30) Horno deSanBuenaventura Eating rooms withsatellite TV. has atranquilambienceandstylish(iftiny) theMuseo boutique-style hotels inSeville, most unassuming of agrowingnumberof .com; CalleAbadGordillo17;s€35-40,d€45-55; maculately maintained. hostal you tothisextremely friendly,family-run 1064 Hostal Museo La Alacena deSanEloy Bodega Belmonte Patio SanEloy Aladdin half hourbetween6.15amand11pm)runby The tothecitycentre easiestwaytotravel istocatchabus(€2.30,every getfromtheairport INTOTOWN GETTING near theAlcázargardens;BarriodeSantaCruzandcentre walkaway. are ashort city centre; cost€0.95.The tickets bestplacetogetoffthebusisatPlaçaDonJuandeAustria, could catcheither)viaAve deCarlos V,closetothePradodeSan Sebastian busstationandthe Laguillo, where busesC1andC2stop.These followaclockwiseandanticlockwisecircuit(you get fromittothecentre, leave thestationviaExit2andwalkacrosscarparktoCalle José both oftheseroutes cost€0.95. oftheGiralda;busC4travels betweenitandPuerta Jereznorthwest inthecentre. Tickets for between SantaJustatrainstationandthecitycentre. PlazadeArmasisapproximately 1.5km walkfromtheAlcázar;busC1stopsclosetohere onitsroutede SanSebastiánisonlyashort on trafficandhowmanybagsyouhave. the citycentre. tothecitycentre willcostbetween€20and€3depending Ataxifromtheairport tostadas The huge and extremely efficient Santa Justa train station is 1.5km northeast ofthecentre.The hugeandextremely efficientSantaJustatrainstationis1.5kmnortheast To Seville hastwoprincipalbusstations:PradodeSanSebastiánandPlazaArmas. Prado ANDALUCÍA ••Seville . Thesimpleroomsare andim- light (€8.85includingbread andwine). This bar has been high on Seville’s onSeville’s high Thisbarhasbeen
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95 421 40 14; Calle Mateos Gago Gago 95 4214014;CalleMateos %
(cnr Av delaConstitución& 95 4215580; CalleSanEloy (smallfilledrolls, Most of Seville’s Most of Seville’s platos com- comedor a The ) Amarillos Tours other sideof thestreet you’llfind from earlymorningtilllate Onthe atnight. Marrakesh, make yourwaytothisenchanting dinner) €10.50-14.50, menúdegustación€20; as itissatisfying. menu,it’sasstylish from thefabuloustapas list of winesbytheglassandorderingupbig Full of chattering theexcellent localssampling tion, butthismodernplacebucksthetrend. bull’shead’schoolstuffed of interior decora- the ‘there’s nothingmore atmosphericthana rusticplates andsubscribeto barstapas serve tion opposite the cathedral. h Pub Irish herty’s It’s great fun. sit onthesteps of theParroquia delSalvador. either propupatoneof thebarrel or tables and LosSoportales orBodeguita Bodeguita Antigua atLa end afternoons. Grababeer untilaround1am,aswellonweek- evening (bathhouse). bar occupyingaformerMuslim Giralda of thetiny The crowdspillsoutontothefootpathinfront &Clubbing Drinking somaketables) sure youbookahead. and thefoodisquite delicious.It’stiny(only11 ofdécor iswonderfullyevocative themedina Artes. The restaurant deBellas neartheMuseo Plaza Salvadorisfullof drinkers every Al Medina Sports fanstend togravitate towards 11am-late) ForthebestMoroccanfoodthissideof ( % 954 22 74 35; Calle Mateos Gago 1) Gago 954 227435;CalleMateos
Bodega Alvaro Peregil Bodega AlvaroPeregil ( , which occupiesa premium posi-
% ( % 90 2210317)
95 421 54 51; Calle San Roque 13; mains 95 4215451;CalleSanRoque13;mains ( % 95 4210417;CalleAlemanes 7; toPuerta Jerez in h lonelyplanet.com (Calle Mateos Gago) (Calle Mateos closed Mon & Sun closed Mon&Sun , apopular hammam Cerveceria Cerveceria Fla-
Sat, closedJun-Aug) 01 04;CalledelBetis57;admissionfree; red-light districtnorthof thecitycentre, isa Hércules 86;livemusicabout€5; such asthe buzzing lonelyplanet.com Lisbon (€36, 7½hours, two daily). Valencia (€45,10to10½ hours, fourdaily) and celona (€69.40,14½ to16½hours, three daily), Cáceres daily),Bar- (€15.53,fourhours, seven daily), Mérida(€11.52, three hours, ninedaily), includeMadridThese (€17.50,sixhours, 14 Expiación) Armas busstation There fromthe are regular services BUS ( inandoutofflights Seville’s There’s arange of domesticandinternational AIR &Away There Getting daysatthebullring. from 4.30pmonfight andcanbebought ending onwho’sfighting, preceding Tickets week. cost€20to€100,dep- dayduringtheFeriadays, andevery andthe about6.30pmmostSun- October, withfights to runsfromEaster season bullfight Seville’s BULLFIGHTING in awonderfulpatiosetting. which performances puts onexcellentnightly Calle XiménezdeEnciso28;adult/student/child€12/8/6) deAl-Andalus delaMemoria Casa experience, bookaticket atthewell-priced the live flamencoonoffer. Fora very different cals whocometomingleatthebarandenjoy of withtouristsandlo- night every theweek Levíes 18;admissionfree; The sprawling FLAMENCO Entertainment floor andpopontheother. andelectroisplayedononedance House city’s club clubs, includingtheenormous onthefarbank,you’llfindsomegood Betis, is dotted withtemporary del bars. OnCalle eastern bankof theGuadalquivirRiver, which have live music. % The AlamedadeHérculesarea, aformer Aduana In summerthere’s alively scenealongthe 95 4449000) todestinationsoutsideAndalucía. barrio barrio
( % de jour Fun Club . 95 4234940;Av delaRaza) . La Carbonería with lotsof offbeat bars. Some, ANDALUCÍA ••Córdoba
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, a SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN restaurant. atthispopularvegetarian dishes are served ple Moroccanmeal cooked withlove, make Blasco de Garay 7;mains€11-16; Blasco deGaray Principal toget there. rooms. Take bus14or31 fromtheAlameda doubles, manyof which have private bath- west of thecitycentre andoffers comfortable tapas €2-4.20) bar isamandatoryactivitywhileinMálaga. served withhome-baked bread pita served (€2). soup, €5.50) isdelicious,as isthehummus port. Thearomatic your waytothis intimate eatery nearthe 5;mains€6-8; 58; CallePozodelRey snacks onoffer. There are over 50varietiesof freshly prepared andwine. beer well-priced tapas, favouritelong-standing offers anarrayof busyPlazade laMercad,Overlooking this dePepe Cortijo Eating the street. have private bathroomsandbalconiesonto havethe floorbelow;these air-con andsome moreThe slightly expensive roomsare on basins andtiledfloors butare dark. atad above. have onthe4thlevel Those wash- on the1stfloorandtwofloors of rooms this excellent bathroom €30-38; tinez 7;d€38-43,swithshared bathroom€23,dwithshared under/over 26yr€14.50/19) 1072 Al-Yamal Árabe Restaurante Hostal LaPalma El Vegetariano delaAlcazabilla El Vegetariano Bar LoGüeno bar, which has spectacular views.bar, whichhasspectacular movesthe action tothe5th-floorterrace music intheluxe restaurant/bar. Insummer lar filmfestivals, poetryreadings andlive tering thecity’sculturallife, andholdregu- Málagueñan ownersare committed tofos- the roomsare extremely The comfortable. ity. The locationcouldn’tbebetter, and in thebar,thishotel oozes styleandqual- couch inthefoyertoSteinway grand €172-246; 2;r€117-193, ste deLarios .com; CalleMarqués Hotel Larios SPLURGE ANDALUCÍA ••Algeciras Cramming into this famous tapas Crammingintothisfamoustapas nai
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los Tilos; www.estabus.emtsam.es) nantly gayclientele. Sunday). (€1.75 MondaytoFriday,€1.85Saturdayand €1.20 SaturdayandSunday)Fuengirola to Torremolinos (€1.10MondaytoFriday, and Sunday,15minutes) before travelling on port (€1.10MondaytoFriday,€1.20Saturday centre andair- andstopsatthebusstation Fuengirola train,which leaves fromthecity city centre andtheairportisonMálaga– able onbus). 6.35am and11.35pmdaily(€1,tickets avail- between platform No30atMálagabusstation itand runbetween ternational Buses flights. handles awiderange of domesticandin- Málaga’s &Away There Getting Niño deGuevara; de Velázquez 3) Popular spotsinclude GranadaandPlaza Merced.around Calle party time kicksoffataboutmidnight Serious Drinking Málagueña of thecentre, in which specialise Pedregeljo andPalo, afew kilometres east the excellentfish restaurants atPlayasde your wits about you,andignore offers from major port linkingSpainwith Morocco. Keep Tarifabetween andGibraltar, Algeciras isthe An unattractive industrialandfishingtown pop 112,857 ALGECIRAS (€16.05,2½hours, daily). eight to Seville €25, 2¼hours, sixdaily).There’s alsoaservice 4¼ hours, sixdaily)viaCórdoba(€15.60 to toMadridthere (€52.10to€87.50, are services Valencia (€46.38to€53.08,sixdaily). (€70.50to€83.50,sixdaily)via Barcelona Linéa(€10.03,three hours, fourdaily)and La daily), Tarifa (€12.10,twohours, twodaily), (€19.66 to€20.12,four5½hours, three €10.40, 1¾tothree hours, 11daily),Cadíz 3¼ hours, ninedaily),Algeciras (€9.94to (€14.40, 2½hours, 10daily),Almería(€14.53, Granada (€8.87,1¾hours, 18daily),Seville to Madrid (€19.65,sixhours, ninedaily), Another wayof travelling the between From the From the At lunch, localstend togravitate towards airport and (friedfish, anchovies andsquid). Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com train station bus station h Liceo Thu-Sat)
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% 95 6680993;www.aytotarifa Playa Chica 9am-9pm Jun-Sep, 9am-3pm 9am-9pm Jun-Sep, dates from the10th 95 6684689;CalleGuzmán h Planet 11am-2pm &6-8pm a Good-value, (CalleSantísima , justsouth- ) runs buses runsbuses isoneof . Whale Playa daily). (adult/child/car €27/16/73,35minutes, five runs fastferries Tarifa between andTangier 10am-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-9pmSun &Mon) Business Centre Information sovereignty. Spain are aboutjointAnglo-Spanish talking Siege and of days,Britain 1779–83.These afterit fromBritain thefailure of the Great Spain gave attempts toregain upmilitary capturedfleet itfromtheSpanishin1704. from theMuslimsin1462,anAnglo-Dutch finallywrested Castilla in 711andthough it bridgehead fortheMusliminvasionof Spain hadarockyhistory.Itwasthe has certainly the mouthof theMediterranean, thecolony almost 5kmlongandover 1kmwidenear commodation prices. they discover theover-the-top eatingandac- up hoofing outof here fast,particularlywhen butmostbackpackersup thenostalgia, end aged day-trippers delSollap fromtheCosta capsule of Coachloads 1960sBritain. of middle- The Britishcolonyof isatime- Gibraltar pop 26,404 GIBRALTAR ( number. justdialthenine-digit SpanishGibraltar, and thelocalnumber. TophoneSpainfrom dial theinternational accesscode,then phone codeis sterling whilehere. you leave. eurosorpounds Youcanalsouse Change poundsbefore anyunspentGibraltar more details. Department require toenter; the avisa contact countriesto Spain.Nationalsfromcertain have iftheywishtoreturn adouble-entryvisa to enter from Spainshould ensure that they the Schengen area, andvisitors whointend isoutside EU nationalidentitycard.Gibraltar youmusthaveTo enter Gibraltar apassportor % There are acouple of The currency pound. istheGibraltar Occupying ahuge lumpof limestone FRS There’s internet accessat from Spain,thetele-To phoneGibraltar 74950; www.gibraltar.gov.gi; House,Cathe- ofKent Duke
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8; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com series ofseries gallerieshewnfromtherockby Central Gibraltar canget Gibraltar crowdedandclaus- Central Sights &Activities dral Sq; lonelyplanet.com Irish Town;Sunday roasts£5.95; Irish oldest pub; orthe Gibraltar’s try There’s live musicat weekends. wine, garlicandcream (£6.95)are tastier. (£6.50) are inwhite popular,butthemussels decked outasNelson’sship. Fish andchips whichgravitate is towardsthisbrasserie, a bar,charming patioandairyrooms. refurbished hotel isintheheartof town.Ithas incl Englishbreakfast) non Lane;d£45,s/dwithshared bathroom£24.50/36.50,all recommended forwomentravelling solo. sleazyatmosphereand hasaslightly –it’snot s £20-30,d£30-50) Montagu Bastion,LineWallRd;dminclbreakfast £15-20, Emile YouthHostel Sleeping &Eating for theApes’Den. few atthemiddlestation minutes. Disembark leaves onRedSandsRdevery itslowerstation 5.15pm Mon-Satyear-round,9.30am-5.15pmSunApr-Oct) gun emplacements. British duringtheGreat Siege toprovide new andthe and stalactites, natural grottorenowned foritsstalagmites attractions include orGreattop station Siege Tunnels.Other otherscar station; canoften atthe beseen around the wild primates inEurope. Someof hang these are itscolonyof macaques,theonly Barbary views. Therock’smostfamousinhabitants ing mostof theupperrock,hasspectacular adult/child/car £8/4/1.50; some chill-out time. Botanical Gardens Wanderintothe is worthapeek. cal collectionandMuslim-erabathhouse, 10am-2pmSat) Fri, Bomb HouseLane;adult/child£2/1; trophobic butthe h h For basicpubgrub andplentifuldrinks Hotel Cannon A The large Lord Nelson 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat,10am-1pmSun). 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, Star Bar 10am-2am) cable car h 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri); 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri);
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h Museo da Museo 98 15551 heads 9am-2pm Bu- de SanDomingosBonaval. intheattractiveis housed formerConvento 72 72; Casas Reais 27) 72 72;CasasReais tasty andcheaptasty optionis 10.30am-1.30pm Sun) free; 4;admission www.mdperegrinacions.com; RúadeSanMiguel that hassoshaped Santiago. Lookoutforthe day for€6. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Xelmírez, abishop’spalacebuiltin1120. ters, treasury andcrypt,aswellthePazo de 10am-1.30pm Sun) Catedral lonelyplanet.com around the RúadaCongo, theRúaSanPaio student population. Someof thebestspots are bars andpubspopular withthecity’slarge menú anextremely popular this smalleatery serves €10.50-12) cheap meal. andsatisfying Estrella Galicia(€1.50),theymake asuper- withaglassof oury pie)for€2.50.Served of potato-and-sardine-packed upheftyslabs placeserves This rough-as-guts tanbul DönerKebap at huge take-away kebabs (€3.20)served The town’sstudentpopulationswears bythe Eating &Drinking beds. comfortable rooms feature poshmarblebathroomsand recently renovated (butsometimesnoisy) 20, d€35-39) lounge.kitchen andasmallbutcomfortable rooms. There’s awell-equippedcommunal bunk bedsandtwosqueaky-cleanshared bath- It offers four-, six-andeight-bed dormswith fixture itsexcellentstandards. ifitmaintains scene, Meiga issure tobecomeapermanent €14-15; 3rdfl,FontedeSanAntonio25;dminclbreakfast -backpackers.es; Hostel Backpackers Meiga Sleeping age destinationsacrosstheworld. fascinating illuminated mapshowing pilgrim- h dopobo.es; RúaSanDomingosdeBonaval;admissionfree; doPoboGalego Museo The Gato NegroTabernaGato O Dezaseis Hostal Suso To get agrasponlocalculture, visitthe The oldquarter ishometo atmospheric h 10am-2pm &4-8pmMon-Sat,11am-2pmSun) for€11. n 10am-8pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm&5-8pmSat, 10am-8pm Tue-Fri, Museo das Peregrinacións dasPeregrinacións Museo
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SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN www.brittanyferries.co.uk) to Madrid (€25.57,5½hours, sixdaily)via between AprilandNovember.between Velarde 19;mains€15; ask fora receipt. you willbechargedcases theIVA onlyifyou incluido elIVA? be includedinthe price. To check, ask: which is 7%.Thismayornot added tax, subject toIVA, theSpanishversion of value- this bookare aguideonly. andaccommodation priceslisted in season any typeof accommodationvarieswiththe can anddochange withtime. Thepriceof down yourbags,andremember thatprices fast unless otherwise. stated tached bathroomsanddonotincludebreak- Prices inthischapter are forroomswithat- ACCOMMODATION SPAIN DIRECTORY (€6.75, 2½hours, three daily). but are ascenicwaytoget toandfromBilbao .feve.es) (€18.85 to€40.60). €47.90, 5½to8½hours, fourdaily)viaÁvila 1½ hours). toBilbao(€6.03€11.08, regular services Burgos (€10,three hours). There are also .santandereabus.com; PlazaEstaciónes) est, andregular ferrySantander’s portisoneof Spain’slarg- &Away There Getting and Cañadío mesónes the PlazadePombo. PlazaPorticadaand find ithalfwaybetween are afarmore attractive proposition.You’ll choices onoffer atthisstylish andfriendlybar traditional Santander’s tic andoften barely ediblefooddished outin from €1.50; for decades. locals breakfast €1.30) (coffee €1,croissant 1084 drink, eatordoboth.Twoof thebestare From the isfullofOld Santander traditional-style Virtually allaccommodationprices are Always check roomcharges before putting Renfe trainstravel toMadrid (€24.45to Arrabal 11 BodegaCigaleña SPAIN ••Accommodation DIRECTORY trains are usuallyslowerthanthebus, ( % (inns)and h 94 2314149;CalleGómezOreña 15;mains€21)
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sidered of tobethewindsurfingcapital Eur- wind,isgenerallybeaches con- andceaseless at Mundaca. Tarifa, withitslong,deserted andthelegendary left Zarauz San Sebastián, The País Vasco hasgoodsurfspots,including Surfing &Kite Windsurfing Surfing, lonelyplanet.com Shops Restaurants lunch andasiesta. Some peoplestillfollowthetraditionofheading homefor Offices Post offices Museums Clubs Bars Banks BUSINESS HOURS Way) isperhapsSpain’sbest-knowntrek. navigate. deSantiago(StJames TheCamino red-and-white marker andare usuallyeasyto Great Treks) are trails. These indicated witha Spain you’llfindGR(GrandesRecorridos,or its naturalandnationalparks.Throughout petrol stations. bookshops, sportsshops andsometimesat maps.Buythematbooklets withdetailed combinesinformationEnglish. Theseries some areas, andsomehave informationin Alpina are forhikingandexploring useful et’s of thebesttreks inthecountryLonely Plan- Spain isatrekker’s Readaboutsome paradise. Walking tracks. have manygoodAndalucía andCatalonia bikingispopular;areasMountain such as their bikes inspringandautumnthesouth. plentyofmainland, although peopleget on Islandsthanonmuch ofon theBalearic the and summerheat.It’samore viable option rents such astheoften-mountainous terrain in otherpartsof of Europebecause deter- Bike touringisn’tascommon inSpainas Cycling of kite-surfing. inthesport ope. arise Ithasalsorecently seen 9am-1.30pm Sat close Mon. going on until after thedinnerhour going onuntilafter though some may skip the evening session theevening though some mayskip nearly midnight Some of Spain’sbestwalking areas are in
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London Madrid (www.spainemb.org) 212-355 4080); Madrid Los Angeles ( % ( pp1026-7; (Map (www.embaspain.ca) pp1026-7; (Map % (Map (Map pp1026-7 ; ( ( New Orleans Manchester % Canberra ( Mp pp1026-7; (Map % % 312-782 4588); 269 1640;[email protected];17A ( (Map (Map pp1026-7 ; 03-9347 1966); % 91 4419300;www.spain.embassy.gov 020-7235 5555;[email protected]; ( % ( 91 353 75 00; [email protected]; Av91 3537500;[email protected]; % San Francisco ( Barcelona % ( 323-938 0158); % Montreal 02-6273 3555;embespau@mail % % % Washington DC 0161-236 1262) % 504-525 4951); Houston Boston 91 5763500;Callede 91 4233250;www.canada Toronto Ottawa Ottawa 91 3190200;Calle Sydney Mp pp1044-5; (Map % 91 5774000;www Barcelona ( ( % % Held inSanSebastián ( Edinburgh 91 5230226;www % ( % ( ( ( 514-935 5235; 415-922 2995) % % Miami Miami % 617-536 2506); ( 713-783 % ( 416-977 1661; 613-747 02-9261 2433) % NewYork ( ( % % 202-452 93 28022 % 305- 0131-
1085
93 SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN Easter. ofcounterbalancetothereligious peakof akind April, notably in Seville, during Easterweek. during notably inSeville, July. festival istherunningofbullsinPamplona, inearly bonfires, first-classfireworks andprocessions. mammoth withall-nightdancinganddrinking, party, August. thefirsthalfof coastduring overs allalongthenorthern ing up to Easter Sunday)andthemonthofing uptoEaster heavily booked. beachside resorts canbe scarceandtransport times accommodationin August. Atthese on holidayare The twomainperiodswhenSpaniards go Christmas Feast Conception oftheImmaculate All Saints’ National Day Feast oftheAssumption Labour Day Good Friday Day Kings’ Three New Year’s Day everywhere. virtuallydays listed followingare observed too. dayoff, theintervening taking Theholi- Spaniards like tomake a toaweekend,When aholidayfallsclose nationwide,somevery local. some observed Spain hasatleast14official holidaysayear, HOLIDAYS around 24September. Festes delaMercè September Grande Semana August Sanfermines July deAbril Feria Santa Semana April Las Fallas deSanJosé Carnaval February-March 1086 in Tenerife, CádizandSitges. are Lent season(40daysbefore Easter)Thewildestparties oftheChristian celebrated aroundthecountryoneve presents SPAIN ••Holidays DIRECTORY A time of fancy-dress parades and merrymaking Atimeoffancy-dress parades andmerrymaking
25December Day 1May Before EasterSunday The highlight of this originally religious Thehighlightofthisoriginally 12October A week-long party held in Seville inlate heldinSeville Aweek-long party Parades ofholyimagesandhugecrowds, 1 November 1January A week of heavy drinking andhang- Aweekofheavydrinking
6January;whenchildren receive Semana Santa (the week lead- (theweek Santa Semana Barcelona’s week-long party, held Barcelona’sweek-long party, Valencia’s week-long mid-March 15August puente 8December (bridge), shops stillprefer cashover credit cards. mostsmall probablybecause per inhabitant, one of numbers theworld’shighest of ATMs better rateattract aslightly thancash.Spainhas currency-exchange Travellers offices. cheques tend togiveBanks better exchange rates than MONEY Country andinNavarra. origin)isspoken intheBasque non-Latin spoken inGalicia. (Euskara;of Basque obscure, is Galician (Gallego),similartoPortuguese, spoken IslandsandinValencia. intheBalearic anddialectsofis spoken itare inCatalonia, tiestoFrenchRomance language withclose – –another (Català) ional languages. Catalan but there are alsothree reg- otherimportant precisely called,isspoken Spain, throughout asitismore (Castellano) Spanish, orCastilian LANGUAGE the façadeof yourhostel) atwww.qdq.com. photo streetforchecking finder(useful out terios.com (inSpanish). Forfun, check outthe www.vayacamping.net orwww.guiasmonas alternative accommodationscanbefoundat online guidewww.justspain.org. Infoabout ish touristboard’swww.spain.infoandthe Helpful trip-planningsites includetheSpan- There’s anavalanche of onlineinformation. RESOURCES INTERNET reliable system, butmailmayarrive late. name for it)atthecityinquestion. It’safairly poste restante delays. be somelong,unaccountable around10days, butthere may New Zealand andtoNorthAmerica, Australiaor a week, €0.78 totherest of theworld. within Spain,€0.57totherest of Europeand airmailletterstandard orpostcard costs €0.29 in yellowletters onamaroonbackground).A estancos areStamps andalsoat soldatpostoffices POST rental andthelike. could askforadiscountlong-term room you gaining inSpainisnotcommon,though to leave smallchange inbars andcafés.Bar- 5% isplenty,10%generous. It’scommon choice –mostpeopleleave somesmallchange; charge, andtippingisamatter of personal Poste-restante mailcanbeaddressed aseither In restaurants, pricesincludeaservice Mail to/fromEurope normallytakes upto (tobaccoshops with theTabacos sign or lista decorreos lonelyplanet.com (the Spanish (theSpanish % try code. Forexample, easy: dial International reverse-charge (collect)callsare TELEPHONE lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake them, notjustaBritish visitorpassport.Non- zens of theUKmusttake afullpassportwith their nationalidentitycardorpassport.Citi- Citizens of EUcountriescan enter Spainwith VISAS andonweekends. 8pm and8amweekdays but there are discountsifyoucallbetween USA. Telephone inSpainisnotcheap, service provinces, or€1toanotherEUcountrythe province,places inthesame €0.45toother about €0.15withinalocalarea, €0.35toother creditcards and,insomecases, cards. Theyacceptcoins,phone- fairly easytouse. 901 and902numbers. lowerthanthenormalfixedslightly rate) for numbers, there though it’s isatoll(though All numbers prefixed with wherever inthecountryyouare callingfrom. digits andyoujustdialthatnine-digitnumber, of thephonenumber. Allnumbers are nine (AT&T) fortheUSA. A three-minute callfromapayphonecosts Blue publicpayphonesare commonand Area codesinSpainare anintegral part 44 fortheUK, % 900 9900followedbythecoun- SPAIN ••Telephone DIRECTORY % 15 for Canada and 15 forCanada % % 61 forAustralia, 900 are toll-free % 11 certain documentswithyou. certain before totake you gotoSpain,asyou’llneed toit,consultaSpanishconsulateject yourself complicated procedure; ifyouintend tosub- their first monthinthecountry.Thiscanbea toapplyforaresidencesupposed cardduring inSpainformorening tostay than90daysare of thisbook. the boxed text, p1200 , inthemaindirectory orMorocco),thenre-enterGibraltar it. and troubleifyouplantoleave to Spain(say willsaveMultiple-entry visas youalotof time dent, the90-dayoptionmaynotbeavailable. apply inacountrywhere you’re notresi- ifyou though 90-day multiple-entryvisa, for 30daysand90days,there’s alsoa of residence. are Single-entryvisas available avisa. among nationalitiesthatdoneed theEU.plies throughout SouthAfricansare for thewholevisit.This90-daylimitap- to 90days,butmusthave apassportvalid of forstays up novisa and theUSAneed Israel, Japan, Switzerland NewZealand, Nationalsof avisa. need Australia, Canada, to gainentry. EU nationalsmustalsotake theirpassport Spain isoneof theSchengen countries;see EU, NorwayandIcelandnationalsplan- inyourcountry thevisa It’s besttoobtain EU, NorwayandIcelandcitizensdonot
1087 SPAIN SPAIN