food culture in America 1890s The Boston Cooking-School Maga- zine of Culinary Science and Domestic Eco- nomic Chateau Montelena and a 1973 cabernet sauvignon from Stag’s1978 LeapJulia ChildWine &Cellars, Company both from Napa Valley, Calif. s becomes the firstA successful T foodimeline Yan Can Cook airs on public television. publication1896 in the . Bos- ton Cooking-School Cookbook , with Martin Yan, First edition of Fannie Farmer’s introduces American audiences to Chinese 1907 is published. cuisine1979 Julia on public Child &television. More Company

Pike Place Market opens in Seattle. airs on public television. After the price of onions increases, city Gardena Farmer’s Market opens in California, one of the first councilman Thomas Revelle proposes the market as in1980 the state. Bon Appétit Cook’s Food & Wine a way of cutting out the middleman. Approximately 10,000 shoppers arrive the first day the market is open The & More, Companyand magazines are and1930 buy all the produce brought by eight farmers. first published.

cookbook wins the National Clarence Birdseye, who had developed the Book1983 Award Dinner in at the Julia’s “current interest” category. technology for flash freezing vegetables, begins test marketing them in grocery stores under the 1986 airs on public television. Birds1931 Eye brand. The Joy of - Cooking Agricola is founded in Italy to combat the growth of The first edition of fast food and the loss of local cuisine. “The Slow Food Move 1941 Gourmet , by Irma Rombauer, is published. ment,”1991 as it comes to be called, soon spreads to the U.S. 1944 magazine debuts. The American Institute of Wine & Food is founded - by Julia Child and vintner Robert Mondavi with the mission Birds Eye leases insulated “to enhance the quality of life through education about what railroad cars, making it possible to dis we1993 eat Juliaand drink.”Child’s Cooking with Master Chefs tribute1945 frozen food nationally. airs. Chef and cookbook author has a short-lived1947 cooking show on television. The Food Network, a cable television channel devoted to cooking programs, begins airing Betty Crocker cake mixes are first sold in November 23, turning Emeril Lagasse and grocery1948 stores. Cook’s Illustrated other chefs into celebrities. 1994 In Julia’s Kitchen with Master Chefs - Dione Lucas, an EnglishwomanTo the Queen’s and Taste the first magazine launches. woman to graduate from , has a airs. Her Cam televised cooking show, . It bridge, Mass., kitchen is equipped with lights and cameras runs for a year on CBS. andSaveur used as the set for the show. McDonald’s, founded in 1940, reopens as a drive-in 1996 Baking with Julia restaurant1949 featuring hamburger for 15 cents. magazine is launched. 1999 Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home 1953 Julia Child attends Le Cordon Bleu in . airs on public television. 1955 C.A. Swanson and Sons introduces the TV dinner.- (with friend and acclaimed French Chef- James Beard establishes the James Beard Cook Jacques Pépin) airs. ing School in1961 New MasteringYork City. the Art of French Cooking Iron Chef - The Food Network begins airing dubbed ver sions of , a flashy Japanese television show featur by Julia Child, Simone Beck and Louisette ing a cooking competition between chefs that began airing Bertholle1963 The is Frenchpublished. Chef in2000 Japan America’s in 1993. Test Kitchen begins airing on launches on public television. public television; it is filmed in a studio Julia Child is made a chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur by the at WGBH Boston. The show initially runs in black French2001 government for her contributions to haute cuisine. and white; it is filmed in color starting in 1970. It is- produced until 1973, becoming the longest-running Julia Child, Robert Mondavi and other food-and-wine television show in the history of public television. Ju notables found Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food lia Child is 50 when the show starts. and the Arts in Napa Valley, Califl, a location for classes, tastings and art exhibits. McDonald’s opens a 500th location and has served Julia Child gives her Cambridge kitchen to the Smithsonian more than one billion hamburgers. The company’s net 2005 Iron Chef America income1965 exceeds $1 million. National Museum of American History in Washington, D.C. 2006 Julia Child wins a George Foster Peabody Award debuts on the Food Network. 1966 recognizing excellence in radio and television. begins airing on the 2009 Julia Child becomes the first PBS personality Bravo channel. 1972 American Cookery Gourmet to win an Emmy Award. On October 6, Condé Nast announces it will stop 2008 1973 JamesThe Frugal Beard’s Gourmet is published. - publishing . Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food and the , with host Jeff Smith, be 2010 gins airing at a Tacoma Public Television station. It is Arts closes because of financial troubles. 1976 widely distributed by the 1980s. The Cooking Channel launches May 31 as a sister

station to the Food Network, because of increasing demand At a wine tasting at the Académie du Vin in Paris, French judges vote two American wines as the for cooking programming. best bottles in the tasting, a 1973 chardonnay from JULIA CHILD’S LEGACY

he impact Julia Child had on the Ameri- Her cookbooks also pioneered techniques can kitchen can not be underestimated. that many other chefs would follow. She TIn an age when professional chefs were still recounted culture and customs, technique and primarily men, she was a woman. She was an im- theme and variations in the recipes. She meticu- passioned voice for taking the time to make good lously tested recipes and variations until she found food from scratch, even as frozen and prepackaged the best version. She described preparation that foods were becoming more popular. She became could be done in advance. She tested ingredients a star in middle age and was known for her good to make sure recipes would work with ingredients humor and a down-to-earth style that put viewers readily available to American cooks. She was de- at ease. Though subsequent chefs have attempted voted to public television and prided herself on to imitate her ease, no one seems to match Julia not doing endorsements. Child for authenticity. the quotable julia child

“People are so fearful of what they eat, they are no lon- “Once you have mastered a technique, you hardly need ger enjoying food the way they once did, and the dinner look at a recipe again.” — Julia’s Kitchen Wisdom table is becoming a trap rather than a pleasure.” — Times, June 19, 1990

okay as long as it had the right amount of nutrients. That’s all they cared about. They’d say frozen green “Thebeans home were economists the same aswere fresh, never which mentioning is ridiculous. anything They’re about not taste at all, or notflavor. in termsThey consideredof taste, anyway.” a meal — On mixes and canned food in the 1940s and ‘50s, People Magazine, June 7, 1999

“Americans don’t like to be bored. And part of that “The pleasures of the table—that lovely old-fashioned is the inevitable result of globalization. Our world is phrase—depict food as an art form, as a delightful part getting smaller, and we’ve become much more adven- turous in our quest for good things to eat.” and health concerns, we must never lose sight of a — On changes in the American palate, People Magazine, June 7, 1999 beautifullyof civilized life. conceived In spite meal.” of food fads, fitness programs, — From her obituary, Associated Press, August 13, 2004 On mastering the art of french cooking

“No one had ever really taken French cooking and translated it for Americans in terms of showing why you did things, how to do them, “May be the finest volume on French what to do if you made a mistake. It was an analytical approach, a cooking ever published in English.” teaching approach. That was really Julia’s genius.” — Craig Claiborne, in his New York Times review — Judith Jones, Julia’s editor at Alfred A. Knopf, on the genius of the cookbook “I was jealous. It was just the kind of book “What is probably the most comprehensive, laudable, I would have liked to do.” and monumental work on the subject was published — Chef Jacques Pépin, a friend of Child’s since 1960 this week. It is called Mastering the Art of French Cook- and later her collaborator on the television show Ju- lia and Jacques: Cooking at Home ing non-professionals … It is written in the simplest terms “I only wish that I had written it myself.” and it will probably remain as the definitive work for possible and without compromise or condescension.” —James Beard — Craig Claiborne’s review in , October 16, 1961 On Julia Child’s influence

“Every one of us can trace our roots back to her” — Celebrity chef Rocco DiSpirito, New York Daily News, August 3, 2009

“Julia Child was not only an amazing cook but “Julia has slowly but surely altered our way of thinking about taught America that it could learn to cook. That food. She has taken the fear of out of the term ‘haute cuisine.’ She spirit continues to this day, and this is why we has increased gastronomic awareness a thousandfold by stress- have great cooking shows.” ing the importance of good foundation and technique, and has — Chef Art Smith, Associated Press, July 28, 2009

“I think the secret of her appeal was a combi- Through the years her shows have kept me in rapt attention, and nation of joy in what she was doing and a herelevated humor our has consciousness kept me in stitches. to the She refined is a national pleasures treasure, of dining. a deep desire to teach and to teach well.” culinary trendsetter, and a born educator beloved by all.” — Geof Drummond, producer of Child’s cooking programs — Thomas Keller, chef and owner of The French Laundry restaurant, in reprinted in the 1990s, New York Times, August 13, 2004 edition of Mastering the Art of French Cooking

fter World War II, America and help unless all Communists were removed APo weres int strikingly-war different United situations Statefrom de Gaulle’ss and cabinet, france which de Gaulle economically, politically and gastronomically. refused to do, although his sympathies were Relations between the United States and France always have been complicated. In would continue to bristle over the years not leftist. An ardent nationalist, De Gaulle 1945, President Harry S. Truman made it at what he viewed as America’s intrusive clear to France’s President Charles de Gaulle and government. ways of attempting to influence French policy that the U.S. did not intend to offer financial Culturally, food companies sought ways to market pres- ervation technologies developed during the war. Con- venience products such as dehydrated and frozen foods U and boxed mixes began to be staples in American kitch- TWorldhe.S. SecretaryWar Mar II, during ofs Statehall a June George 5, Plan 1947, C. Marshall commencement called for ens. Grocery store chains spread, and Americans started addressAmerican at Harvard assistance University. in rebuilding The Truman Europe Adminis after- buying food in one place rather than visiting the butcher or having milk delivered. to help restore industrial and agricultural productivity tration passed the Economic Cooperation Act of 1948- “When leaders fail, new leaders are in Europe. Officially called the European Recovery Pro projected upward out of the eternal gram, it was known as the Marshall Plan. United States cumulatively spirit of France: from Charlemagne to Undergave France the Marshall approximately Plan, the

and 1952; $2.1 billion dollars Clemenceau. Perhaps this time I am one would$2.6 billion not be betweenrepayable. 1948 Joanof those of A thrustrc to N intoapoleon, leadership Poincare by andthe In addition to bringing Amer- failure of others.” ican dollars to an economi- War II and president of both the French Provisional Government — Charles D eafter Gaulle, the leader war and of the of theFree Fifth French Republic, in Wor inld relationscally depressed tool for E urAmerica’sope, the The Call to Honor. Marshallpolitical system Plan was at a a public- time Cover of Marshall Plan information when Americans feared So- the first volume of his memoirs, booklet given to Americans living viet Russia was gaining in- abroad, like Julia and Paul Child. - fluence throughout Europe.- pleCommunists of American and imperialism other political and parties an attempt in Europe, to control includ ing France, would claim the Marshall Plan was an exam

European politics. From a Marshall Plan information booklet published by the United States, “America was not built on fear. America an illustration showing post-war Western Europe welcoming Americans. was built on courage, on imagination

and an unbeatable determination to do fter World War II, France was economically and so- the job at hand.” — President Harry S. Truman, Acially exhausted. Resources such as coal and agricul- Po tural sstorest-war were depleted, France and there would be shortag- es and rationing for years after the war. Additionally, the in a special message to congress on January 8, 1947 country’s infrastructure and buildings were in disrepair

and most train lines were inoperable because of bomb- mericans returned home from World War II to eco- ingor destroyed. by Allied andOnly resistance one in five forces. trucks An survived August 2,the 1945, war, A a New York Times p enrolledost in-war college under am theerica GI Bill of Rights. The hous- ing marketnomic prosperity.boomed, with More the than average 100 home million costing veterans be- article estimated the cost of the Nazi Theoccupation French wentof France through at $98 a period billion. of purging those who

tween $8,500 and $14,000. - banks, coal mines, utility companies and the carmaker Re- - hadnault collaborated were taken over with by the the occupying French government Nazis. Numerous because Politically, by 1950, fears of communism were escalat their owners had collaborated. The Socialists, Commu- ing. Republican Sen. Joseph McCarthy of Wisconsin an U.S. government. While this pronouncement ultimately - nounced more than 200 communists had infiltrated the was proved untrue, it contributed to the paranoia of the ties most closely associated with the resistance and won era, and the “Red Scare” became one of the most repres- nists,seats inand the the interim Christian government. Democrats This were increased the political American par sive times in American history. The widely publicized - House Committee on Un-American Activities investigated er, the parties squabbled, and by 1946 the Communists allegations of communists in the government and arts. fearsand Socialists about the no spread longer of held communism a majority in of E urtheope. seats. Howev

CHAPTER ONE: SOUP

SOUPE À L’OIGNON [Onion Soup]

The onions for an onion soup need a long, slow cooking in butter and oil,

which characterizes a perfect brew. You should therefore count on 2 ½ hours then a long, slow simmering in stock for them to develop the deep, rich flavor some watching , the actual simmering can proceed unattended. at leastFor from 6 to start8 servings to finish. Though the preliminary cooking in butter requires

1 ½ lbs. or about 5 cups of Cook the onions slowly with the butter and oil in the covered thinly sliced yellow on- saucepan for 15 minutes. ions. 3 Tb butter 1 Tb oil A heavy-bottomed, 4-quart covered saucepan

1 tsp salt Uncover, raise heat to moderate, and stir in the salt and ¼ tsp sugar (helps the on- sugar. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes stirring frequently, until the ions to brown) onions have turned an even, deep, golden brown.

3 Tb flour Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 3 minutes

2 quarts boiling brown Off heat, blend in the boiling liquid. Add the wine, and stock, canned beef bouil- season to taste. Simmer partially covered for 30 to 40 lon, or 1 quart of boiling minutes or more, skimming occasionally. Correct seasoning. water and 1 quart of stock (*) set aside uncovered until ready to serve. Then reheat to or bouillon the simmer. ½ cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth Salt and pepper to taste

3 Tb cognac Just before serving, stir in the cognac Pour into a soup Rounds of hard-toasted tureen or soup cups over the rounds of bread and pass the cheese French bread (see recipe separately. following) 1 to 2 cups grated Swiss or Parmesan cheese

GARNISHINGS FOR ONION SOUP Croûtes – hard-toasted French bread

12 to 16 slices of French Place the bread in one layer in a roasting pan and bake in a bread cut ¾ to 1 inch preheated 325-degree oven for about half an hour, until it is thick thoroughly dried out and lightly browned.

Olive oil or beef drippings Halfway through the baking, each side may be basted with a tea- A cut clove of garlic spoon of olive oil or beef drippings; and after baking, each piece may be rubbed with cut garlic.

Croûtes au Fromage – cheese croûtes

Grated Swiss or Parmesan Spread one side of each croûte with grated cheese and sprinkle cheese with drops of olive oil or beef drippings. Brown under a hot Olive oil or beef drippings broiler before serving.

VARIATIONS Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée [Onion Soup Gratinéed with Cheese]

The preceeding onion soup Preheat oven to 325 degrees. A fireproof tureen or cas- Bring the soup to the boil and pour into the tureen or soup pots. serole or individual onion Stir in the slivres cheese and grated onion. Float the rounds of soup pots toast on top of the soup, and spread the grated cheese over it. 2 ounces Swiss cheese cut Sprinkle with the oil or butter. Bake for 20 minutes in the oven, into very thin slivers then set for a minute or two under a preheated broiler to brown 1 Tb grated raw onion the top lightly. Serve immediately. 12 to 16 rounds of hard- toasted French bread 1 ½ cups grated Swiss, or Swiss and Parmesan cheese 1 Tb olive oil or melted butter

CHAPTER TWO: SAUCES

MAYONNAISE

[Mayonnaise: Egg Yolk and Oil Sauce]

Mayonnaise like hollandaise is a process of forcing egg yolks to absorb a fatty substance, oil in this case, and to hold it in thick and creamy suspension. But as the egg yolks do not have to be warmed, the sauce is that much simpler to make than hollandaise. You can make it by machine in a blender, although the processor produces a larger and better sauce. Either way it is almost automatic, and takes no skill whatsoever. Mayonnaise done by hand or with an electric beater requires familiarity with egg yolks. And again, as with hollandaise, you should be able to make it by hand as part of your general mastery of the egg yolk. It is certainly far infrom less difficult than 10 once minutes. you understand the process, and after you have done it a few times, you could easily and confidently be able to whip together a quart of sauce POINTS TO REMEMBER when making mayonnaise by hand

Temperature Mayonnaise is easiest to make when all ingredients are at normal room temperature. Warm the mixing bowl in hot water to take the chill off the egg yolks. Heat the oil to tepid if it is cold. Egg Yolks Always beat the egg yolks for a minute or two before adding anything to them. As soon as they are thick and sticky, they are ready to absorb the oil. Adding the Oil and the sauce thickens into a heavy cream. After this, the oil may be incorporated more rapidly. ProportionsThe oil must be added very slowly at first, in droplets, until the emulsion process begins The maximum amount of oil one U.S. Large egg yolk will absorb is 6 ounces or ¾ cup. When this maximum is exceeded, the binding properties of the egg yolks break down, and the sauce thins out or curdles. If you have never made mayonnaise before, it is safest not to exceed ½ cup of oil per egg yolk. Here is a table giving proportions for varying amounts of sauce:

Number of Vinegar and/or Amount of Cups of Oil Egg Yolks Lemon Juice Finished Sauce 2 1 to 1 1/2 cups 2 to 3 Tb 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 cups 3 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 cups 3 to 5 Tb 2 to 2 3/4 cups 4 2 to 3 cups 4 to 6 Tb 2 1/2 to 3 2/3 cups 6 3 to 4 1/2 cups 6 to 10 Tb 3 3/4 to 5 1/2 cups

For 2 to 2 3/4 Cups of Hand-beaten Mayonnaise

NOTE: The following directions are for a hand-beaten sauce. Exactly the same system is followed for an electric beater. Use the large bowl, and the moderately fast speed for whipping cream. Continually push the sauce into the beater blades with a rubber scraper.

A round bottomed, 2 ½- to Warm the bowl in hot water. Dry it. Add the egg yolks and beat 3-quart glazed pottery, for 1 to 2 minutes until they are thick and sticky. glass, or stainless-steel mixing bowl. Set it in a heavy casserole or sauce- pan to keep it from slip ping. 3 egg yolks A large wire whip

1 Tb wine vinegar or lemon Add the vinegar or lemon juice, salt, and mustard. Beat for 30 Juice seconds more. ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp dry or prepared mus- Preheat oven to 325 degrees. tard Bring the soup to the boil and pour into the tureen or soup pots. Stir in the slivres cheese and grated onion. Float the rounds of toast on top of the soup, and spread the grated cheese over it. 1 ½ to 2 ¼ cups of olive oil, The egg yolks are now ready to receive the oil, and while it goes Sprinkle with the oil or butter. Bake for 20 minutes in the oven, Salad oil, or a mixture of in, drop by drop, you must not stop beating until the sauce has then set for a minute or two under a preheated broiler to brown each. If the oil is cold, thickened. A speed of 2 strokes per second is fast enough. You the top lightly. Serve immediately. heat it to tepid; and if you can switch hands or switch directions, it makes no difference as are a novice, use the long as you beat constantly. Add the drops of oil with a teaspoon, minimum amount. or rest the lip of the bottle on the edge of the bowl. Keep your eye on the oil rather than on the sauce. Stop pouring and continue beating every 10 seconds or so, to be sure the egg yolks are ab- sorbing the oil. After 1/3 to ½ cup of oil has been incorporated, the sauce will thicken into a very heavy cream and the crisis is over. The beating arm may rest a moment. Then beat in the remaining oil by 1 to 2 tablespoon dollops, blend- ing it thoroughly after each addition.

Drops of wine vinegar or When the sauce becomes too thick and stiff, beat in drops of lemon juice as needed. vinegar or lemon juice to thin it out. Then continue with the oil.

2 Tb boiling water Beat the boiling water into the sauce. This is an anti-curdling Vinegar, lemon juice, salt, insurance. Season to taste. pepper, and mustard. If the sauce is not used immediately, scrape it into a small bowl and cover it closely so a skin will not form on its surface. CHAPTER THREE: EGGS

SCRAMBLED EGGS [Oeufs Brouillés]

Scrambled eggs in French are creamy soft curds that just hold their shape from fork to mouth. Their preparation is entirely a matter of stirring the eggs over gentle heat until they slowly thicken as a mass into a custard. Salt plus half a teaspoon of liquid per egg helps blend the yolks and white, but no more liquid or liquid-producing ingredients or the eggs will turn watery. For 4 or 5 servings

A fork or a wire whip Beat the eggs in the bowl with the seasonings and liquid for 20 8 eggs, or 7 eggs and 2 yolks to 30 seconds, just to blend yolks and whites A mixing bowl Salt and pepper 4 tsp water or milk

2 Tb softened butter Smear the bottom and sides of the pan with the butter. Pour in the A heavy-weight saucepan or eggs and set over moderately low heat. Stir slowly and continu- skillet 7 to 8 inches bot- ally, reaching all over the bottom of the pan. Nothing will seem tom diameter (no-stick to happen for 2 to 3 minutes as the eggs gradually heat. Suddenly suggested). Depth of eggs they will begin to thicken into a custard. Stir rapidly, moving pan in pan should be 2/3 to 1 on and off heat, until the eggs have almost thickened to the con- inch sistency you wish. Then remove from heat, as they will continue Preheat oven to 325 degrees. A rubber spatula or wooden to thicken slightly. spoon Bring the soup to the boil and pour into the tureen or soup pots. Stir in the slivres cheese and grated onion. Float the rounds of 1 ½ to 2 Tb softened butter Justtoast as on soon top ofas theythe soup, are of and the spread right consistency,the grated cheese stir in overthe en it.- or whipping cream richmentSprinkle withbutter the or oilcream, or butter. which Bake will forstop 20 the minutes cooking, in Seasonthe oven, to A warm buttered platter taste,then set turn for out a minuteonto the or platter, two under decorate a preheated with parsley, broiler and to serve.brown Parsley sprigs (*)the Thetop lightly.eggs may Serve be kept immediately. for a while in their sauce-pan over tepid water, but the sooner they are served the better.