Western Iberia

Western Iberia Narcissi A Greentours Tour Report 16 th – 29 th February 2008 Led by Ian Bennallick & Paul Green The attached tour report is from a very similar tour that we ran in 2008. The 2012 itinerary visits all the main areas described in the 2008 report, though we now do it in an eleven day itinerary rather than a fourteen day one, having felt that less time is needed generally on the Portuguese sites. Also, the order of the itinerary has altered, and the departure airport too. This reduces the overall travelling time allowing more time in the field to enjoy those Narcissi . Saturday 16 ththth February ––– Lisbon to Aldiea das Dez Ian and Paul collected the group from Lisbon airport at 10am and after negotiating Lisbon traffic were soon driving north towards Coimbra, and east to Aldeia das Dez. Much of the roadsides were yellow with Acacia and the extensive stands of Eucalyptus , planted and now both now naturalised in much of Portugal. A short stop was made to admire the very fresh Narcissus triandrus on granite terraces and outcrops, amongst Umbilicus rupestris and bracken. A Green Woodpecker called in the tranquil sun-mellowed valley below and with the smell of olive wood smoke in the air the relaxing mood was welcome after the long drive. Arriving at the Quinta de Geia in good time, we were soon tucking into beef bourguignon with a fancy chocolate pudding. Sunday 17 ththth February ––– Serra da Estrela and Mondego Valley The morning dawned windy but not too cool, with Redwing seen by Hilary in the bushes around the hotel. After a good breakfast at 8.15am, we were soon driving towards the distant peaks of the Serra da Estrela (highest point 1993m). This was our destination for Narcissus asturiensis (a small Narcissus pseudonarcissus like plant), and it looked easier than the year before when the slopes had a sprinkling of snow. As we drove along the valley the heathy slopes beside the road had some pink Erica australis . Eventually we started to climb a very nice smooth new road to the area around a small reservoir, Lagoa Comprida. Much of the wooded slopes appeared to have been burnt relatively recently, and the whole area was reminiscent of the largely open Exmoor. Climbing higher and the temperature dropped close to freezing and 1 we could see snow patches on higher slopes. We drove to below the dam of the lake to be met by almost all the surrounding villagers in their cars and numerous coaches all sightseeing towards the highest point (and presumably heading for the mountain restaurants) near Torre, the highest point on the Serra da Estrela. Because of the very high winds, we gingerly managed to avoid the ensuing traffic jam and drove along the ridge (with wonderful views no one was parked below the dam so we took the opportunity of exploring the grassy areas that in the previous year was covered in snow. Almost immediately, we found Narcissus asturiensis , small but perfectly formed, in large numbers amongst the grasses on shallow soils, especially where the granite outcrops rise close to the soil surface. A few Narcissus bulbocodium var. nivalis were found then more and more, small neat flowers. The dwarf juniper, Erica and grasses made for interesting vegetation and the granite was covered in bright green splashes of lichens. Feeling completely bone-chillingly cold we drove along the road to Sabugueiro. The odd Narcissus asturiensis started appearing on the rocky road cuttings, so everyone was dropped off to walk along the road to see the best ones (and to stretch legs) but some had already gone over and were not as good as the previous year here or like the ones near the dam higher up. One patch of several flowers was growing around a small flush site, and the presence of available moisture was seemingly what the plants needed. Alongside the road Armeria alliacea was almost in flower. We drove further – and despite Paul seeing a couple of crocuses from the van, none were evident alongside the road. Driving down we decided to retrace the road to have another look and we stopped with everyone out searching the hillside. Unlike 2007, when we had had some very deep violet forms of the crocus which keyed out to be C. carpetanus , only a few fresh specimens could be found. Some had been blown over in the wind. No Romulea bulbocodium or Narcissus bulbocodium var. nivalis could be found this year suggesting that it was a later season in 2008, and that the snowpatches had not long disappeared. We drove out of the hills and into the Mondego Valley, where hybrids of Narcissus triandrus and Narcissus scaberulus and good populations of Narcissus triandrus had been recorded. We parked up and headed off in all directions along the river Mondego, as the picnic was prepared. On steps and in abundance on the open rocky outcrops near the river by the bridge were the dainty Narcissus scaberulus , and only a few Narcissus triandrus . Despite looking for hybrids none were found. A worry here (raised last year) is that the river banks have been colonised but the very invasive non-native Eucalyptus and Acacia trees. The growth and dead leaves of these species had and were crowding and shading out a lot of Narcissus – what will the future hold for Narcissus here? One or two flowering Arisarum vulgare were found also. By now it was raining so we all bundled into the vans and drove to a track east that was so good in 2007 and had had more Narcissus scaberulus , some short and some tall, but no Romulea bulbocodium or Viola demetria . This year the Narcissus was only few in number and as the other species were not showing, we thought it a sign of a late season. We headed back to Aldeia das Dez for a relaxing evening, checklists and another hearty meal. Monday 18 ththth February ––– Pampilhosa da Serra The aim of today was to see the golden variety of Narcissus triandrus (var. concolor ) near Pampilhosa da Serra. The day dawned wet and cool, and low clouds were ominous, as we 2 wound our way towards Arganil. We stopped beside the road east of Coja where the cutting of firebreaks had meant that Narcissi, both Narcissus bulbocodium and Narcissus triandrus , had popped up on the short areas with leaves of Scilla monophyllus . There was a very large clump of Narcissus triandrus . The surrounding scrubby vegetation included flowering Erica lusitanica . The roads to the next planned stop were lined by eucalyptus woods with acacia and the odd pine plantation, much of the planting evidently destroying the native heathy vegetation. We walked from the road to the top of the outcrop beside the river where Narcissus triandrus was thick with other interesting species – lots of leaves of Scilla monophyllus , and Daphne gnidium and Ruscus heterophyllum on the sides. The main site of the day was not far along some fantastic new roads (again with almost no traffic) through heathy hillsides pink with Erica australis . We rounded a bend and near a small terraced farm by a stream, where the hillside trees (Eucalypts and pines) had been burnt in the recent past, the hillside was disappointingly lacking the numbers of the ‘Angel’s Tears’, Narcissus triandrus var. concolor , which we had seen in 2007. However a few were all golden and perfect in the misty light and the cloudy conditions and light rain made them luminous. The leaders prepared the picnic, which included a wonderful Estrela cheese, local ham and the always delicious rustic bread. As it was disappointingly free of the Narcissus here, we drove along the roads as far as Cambas, to the Zezare River, a very picturesque setting. Tree trunks relatively high up the banks were evidence of a recent flood and indeed in January they had had 14 days of rain in the area. A Cormorant was sunning itself as we arrived, and in earnest we searched the suitable habitats for Narcissi . Paul found some Narcissus triandrus var. concolor on a south-facing slope in shade but they were few and many were left to open. We found some large blooms of Narcissus bulbocodium clinging to a rocky cliff and in short grassy patches above a retaining wall. The Romulea bulbocodium were tightly closed in the chill wind! A Peregrine Falcon mewed and swooped around the rocks by the dam. After stopping for coffees at Martin’s Café south of the dam, we drove down to the village below the dam, and past Vidual onto Fajao. Most of the landscape was obscured by mist, but we were soon in the exquisitely pretty little valleys between Fajao and Texeira on the road to Coja, and up into the hills of Serra de Açor, through some wonderful scenery. The valleys here had not been burnt and the scrub and woodland appeared to have more native species. At the top the view across to the north was super with small chimney stacks with smoke rising though the mists from the many low ridges, to the high Serra do Caramula. We stopped at the junction where Michael last year had found Crocus carpetanus in abundance , and again we found them but the very strong cold winds had pushed them over . We drove to Avo through a picturesque valley down to and via Pomares, after we had all photographed a dense clump of Narcissus bulbocodium growing on the mown verge. Perhaps this area needs more grazing to encourage the short turf for Narcissi? We arrived back at 6pm, and had a lovely meal of simple vegetable soup, chicken stuffed with ham, and a chocolate sweet.

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