01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page i
Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2006
by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page ii 01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page i
Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2006
by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page ii
Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Pub- lishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/ 572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-8796-2 ISBN-10: 0-7645-8796-X Editor: Margot Weiss Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Quintana Roo: Shaded area and beach near ocean Back cover photo: El Castillo, also known as Pyramid of Kukulcan, at Chichén Itzá For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_58796x_ftoc.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 1 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow
1 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 3 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Best Beach Vacations ...... 3 7 The Best Shopping ...... 9 2 The Best Cultural Experiences ...... 6 8 The Hottest Nightlife ...... 10 3 The Best Archaeological Sites ...... 6 9 The Most Luxurious Hotels ...... 10 4 The Best Active Vacations ...... 7 10 The Best Budget Inns ...... 11 5 The Best Places to Get 11 The Best Unique Inns ...... 12 Away from It All ...... 8 12 The Best Restaurants ...... 13 6 The Best Museums ...... 8
2 Planning Your Trip to the Yucatán 15 by Lynne Bairstow 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 15 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information ...... 18 Travel Resource ...... 38 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . .18 10 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 39 4 Money ...... 21 11 Getting There ...... 40 5 When to Go ...... 24 12 Packages for the Independent Traveler ...... 45 Yucatan Calendar of Events ...... 25 Before You Book a Package ...... 46 6 Travel Insurance ...... 27 13 The Active Traveler ...... 48 7 Health & Safety ...... 29 14 Tips on Accommodations ...... 49 Treating & Avoiding Digestive Trouble ...... 32 15 Getting Around Mexico ...... 52 8 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 33 16 Recommended Books ...... 55 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 36 Fast Facts: Mexico ...... 56 02_58796x_ftoc.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page iv
iv CONTENTS
3 Suggested Yucatán Itineraries 62 by David Baird
1 Northern Yucatán in a Week ...... 62 3 La Ruta Maya ...... 65 2 An Eco-Adventure for the Whole Family ...... 63
4 Cancún 68 by Lynne Bairstow
1 Orientation ...... 69 5 Outdoor Activities & Attractions . . . .93 The Best Websites for Cancún . . . . .70 6 Shopping ...... 95 Fast Facts: Cancún ...... 73 7 Cancún After Dark ...... 96 2 Where to Stay ...... 75 8 Day Trips: Archaeological Sites 3 Where to Dine ...... 84 & Eco-Theme Parks ...... 99 4 Beaches, Watersports & Boat Tours ...... 90
5 Isla Mujeres & Cozumel 104 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow
1 Isla Mujeres ...... 104 2 Cozumel ...... 119 The Best Websites for Isla Mujeres An All-Inclusive Vacation & Cozumel ...... 106 in Cozumel ...... 122 Fast Facts: Isla Mujeres ...... 108 Fast Facts: Cozumel ...... 123
6 The Caribbean Coast: The Riviera Maya, Including Playa del Carmen & the Costa Maya 137 by David Baird The Best Websites for Playa del Tulum: A Friendly Difference Carmen & the Caribbean Coast . . .138 of Opinion ...... 164 1 Playa del Carmen ...... 140 The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Fast Facts: Playa del Carmen . . . . .142 Reserve ...... 169 Choosing an All-Inclusive 5 Cobá Ruins ...... 169 in the Riviera Maya ...... 150 6 Majahual, Xcalak & 2 North of Playa del Carmen ...... 152 the Chinchorro Reef ...... 173 3 South of Playa del Carmen ...... 157 7 Lago Bacalar ...... 175 4 Tulum, Punta Allen 8 Chetumal ...... 176 & Sian Ka’an ...... 163 9 Side Trips to Maya Ruins from Chetumal ...... 178 02_58796x_ftoc.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page v
CONTENTS v
7 Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior 180 by David Baird
The Best Websites for Hacienda Hotels ...... 196 Mérida, Chichén Itzá 2 The Ruins of Uxmal ...... 208 & the Maya Interior ...... 182 3 Campeche ...... 218 1 Mérida: Gateway to Fast Facts: Campeche ...... 221 the Maya Heartland ...... 182 Festivals & Special Events 4 The Ruins of Chichén Itzá ...... 224 in Mérida ...... 185 5 Valladolid ...... 232 Fast Facts: Mérida ...... 186
8 Tabasco & Chiapas 237 by David Baird
1 Villahermosa ...... 238 Special Events in & near 2 Palenque ...... 246 San Cristóbal ...... 260 3 San Cristóbal de las Casas ...... 253 4 Road Trips from San Cristóbal . . . .269 The Zapatista Uprising 5 Tuxtla Gutiérrez ...... 271 & Lingering Tensions ...... 256 Fast Facts: San Cristóbal de las Casas ...... 257
Appendix A: The Yucatán in Depth 276 1 The Land & Its People ...... 276 4 Religion, Myth & Folklore ...... 287 2 A Look at the Past ...... 278 Gods & Goddesses ...... 288 Dateline ...... 278 5 Food & Drink ...... 289 3 Art & Architecture 101 ...... 285
Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 293 1 Telephones & Mail ...... 293 3 Menu Glossary ...... 297 2 Basic Vocabulary ...... 294
Index 300 03_58796x_flast.qxd 7/20/05 6:58 PM Page vi
List of Maps
Mexico 4 The Yucatán’s Lower Caribbean The Yucatán Peninsula 16 Coast 174 Tabasco & Chiapas 19 What to See & Do in Mérida 189 Northern Yucatán in a Week 63 Where to Stay & Dine in Mérida 195 An Eco-Adventure for Uxmal Ruins 209 the Whole Family 64 Kabah Ruins 213 La Ruta Maya 66 Sayil Ruins 215 Downtown Cancún 71 Labná Ruins 216 Isla Cancún (Zona Hotelera) 77 Campeche 219 Isla Mujeres 105 Chichén Itzá Ruins 225 Cozumel 121 Villahermosa Area 239 San Miguel de Cozumel 125 Palenque Archaeological Site 247 The Yucatán’s Upper Caribbean Where to Stay & Dine Coast 139 in Palenque 250 Playa del Carmen 141 San Cristóbal de las Casas 255 Tulum Ruins 165 Chiapas Highlands 270 Cobá Ruins 171
Acknowledgments David Baird would like to acknowledge an enormous debt to Ms. Claudia Hurtado, whose knowledge and contacts in the Riviera Maya smoothed the way for his research of that area. He would also like to extend a personal thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write him with their suggestions. Lynne Bairstow is appreciative of the invaluable contribution of her research assistant, Alejandra Macedo, to her work on this book. 03_58796x_flast.qxd 7/20/05 6:58 PM Page vii
An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi- ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
About the Authors David Baird has lived in various parts of Latin America, including Mexico, Puerto Rico, Peru, and Brazil. He now makes his home in Austin, Texas, but he tries to get back to the turquoise- blue waters of the Yucatán whenever possible because he thinks he looks good in that color. For Lynne Bairstow, Mexico has become more home than her native United States. For most of the past 13 years, she has lived in Puerto Vallarta, where she has developed a true apprecia- tion and respect for the customs, culture, and natural treasures of Mexico. Her travel articles on Mexico have appeared in the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, Private Air magazine, Luxury Living magazine, and the in-flight magazines of Mexicana Airlines and Alaska Airlines. In 2000, Lynne was awarded the Pluma de Plata, a top honor granted by the Mexican government to for- eign writers, for her work in the Frommer’s guidebook to Puerto Vallarta.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Mexico Frommer’s Portable Acapulco, Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo Frommer’s Portable Cancún Frommer’s Portable Los Cabos & Baja Frommer’s Portable Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo & Guadalajara The Unofficial Guide to Mexico’s Best Beach Resorts 03_58796x_flast.qxd 7/20/05 6:58 PM Page viii
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 04_58796x_whatsnew.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 1
What’s New in Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow
The Yucatán’s Caribbean coast is experi- (& 800/343-7821; www.fiestaamericana. encing an inflation rate much higher than com) has been turning heads ever since. the rest of the nation. Across the board, The 370-room oceanfront Aqua is awash prices continue to rise as the area’s popu- in blue hues and has sleek rooms fitted larity as a beach resort increases. Demand with every possible amenity. Facilities is also high for the growing number of include an expansive spa, several restau- hotel rooms, especially in the Riviera rants featuring menus by renowned chefs, Maya. However, the coast remains a good and a lounge-style atmosphere in its bargain for sun worshippers, with growing lobby and pool areas. competition among airlines serving the The Hilton Cancún Beach & Golf region and a steady rate of exchange with Resort (& 800/228-3000; www.hilton the dollar. In the interior of the peninsula cancun.com) opened its new spa in early things are much more in line with the rest 2005. The 1,115 sq. m (12,000-sq.-ft.) of the country, which has seen a relatively spa features eight indoor and two beach- low inflation rate and solid economic side treatment areas, two saunas, and an growth for the past 12 months. outdoor whirlpool. Beach massages, yoga PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO MEX- classes, as well as traditional spa treat- ICO Frontier Airlines (www.frontier ments are all offered. Hotel packages that airlines.com) is expanding its Mexico serv- include treatments at the spa are also ice outside its Denver hub, adding Kansas available. City as a departure point. Routes now Attractions An impressive Interactive include nonstop service from Cancún. Aquarium opened at La Isla Shop- Fort Lauderdale, Florida–based Spirit ping Center (& 998/883-0411; www. Airlines (www.spiritair.com) now has aquariumcancun.com.mx), with dolphin year-round flights between Detroit and swims and the chance to feed a shark Cancun. Connecting service to Cancún while you are immersed in the water in an through Detroit includes flights from acrylic cage. New York (LaGuardia), Las Vegas, and The newest ecoadventure in the area is Los Angeles. the half-day tour to Chikin-Ha (& 984/ CANCUN For complete information, 873-2036; www.alltournative.com). On see chapter 4. this “Mayan Canopy Tour” you have the option of hiking or biking past three Accommodations Fiesta Americana cenotes (sinkholes with deep-blue water), hotels opened its most stylish resort to with stops along the way for swimming date in February 2005, and the Aqua 04_58796x_whatsnew.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 2
2 WHAT’S NEW or traveling by zip-line over the cenote colorful clapboard buildings that house and surrounding tropical landscape. cafes and shops displaying folkloric art. After Dark In 2004, Avalon Resorts Garrafón Park also offers underwater opened The City (& 998/848-8380; museums, snorkeling through artificial www.thecitycancun.com), a high-concept reefs, and other activities. nightclub, beach bar, and lounge featur- Cozumel Hotel Plaza Las Glorias, the ing a world-famous porterhouse grill. large hotel on the southern edge of the Meant to evoke a “city within a city,” the town of San Miguel is now closed and property, located in the Hotel Zone, fea- will reopen sometime this year as an all- tures a three-dimensional urban skyline inclusive hotel. of skyscrapers and city towers. It’s already THE RIVIERA MAYA For complete hosted the world’s top DJs—Moby even information on this region, see chapter 6. played here—and the music is sizzling. Glazz, at La Isla Shopping Village Puerto Morelos & Environs This town (& 998/883-1881; www.glazz.com.mx), is growing in popularity and experiencing also in Cancún, combines a restaurant a construction boom, especially in condos. (China Bistro) with a sleek lounge and Playa del Carmen In Playa, two of our sophisticated, Miami-style nightclub. favorite economic hotels are being ISLA MUJERES & COZUMEL For replaced with condos: Villa Catarina and complete information, see chapter 5. the Albatross Royale are slated for clos- ing. Demolition and construction will Attractions Garrafón National Park soon follow. (& 998/877-1100; www.garrafon.com) contains Isla Mujeres’ newest attraction, a Costa Maya Kailuum II, the neoprim- Panoramic Tower. At 50m (225 ft.) itive hotel that occupied a stretch of high, the tower offers visitors a bird’s-eye beach south of Puerto Morelos is moving view of the entire island. The tower holds to Majahual. 20 visitors at a time, and rotates for Río Bec Ruins Parts of the ruins in 10 minutes while you snap photos or sim- Becán remain closed for restoration. ply enjoy the scenery. Adjacent to the tower MERIDA, CHICHEN ITZA & THE is a new installation, Sculptured Spaces, MAYA INTERIOR For complete infor- an impressive and extensive garden of mation on this region, see chapter 7. large sculptures donated to Isla Mujeres Mérida The construction of a new city by internationally renowned sculptors as market in the downtown area is now com- part of the 2001 First International plete. It includes green space and better Sculpture Exhibition. Nearby is the new parking. Caribbean Village, with narrow lanes of 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 3
1 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow
The Yucatán Peninsula welcomes more visitors than any other part of Mexico. Its tremendous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unequaled mix of sophisti- cated resorts, rustic inns, ancient Maya culture, exquisite beaches, and exhilarating adventures. Between the two of us, we’ve logged thousands of miles crisscrossing the peninsula, and these are our personal favorites—the best places to go, the best restau- rants, the best hotels, and must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences. 1 The Best Beach Vacations • Cancún: Essentially one long ribbon you can have fresh-caught fish for of white sand bordering aquamarine lunch. You’re close to great diving and water, Cancún has one of Mexico’s snorkeling just offshore, as well as Isla most beautifully situated beaches. If Contoy National Park, which fea- you want tropical drinks brought to tures great bird life and its own dra- you while you lounge in the sand, matic, uninhabited beach. If all that this is the vacation for you. Though tranquillity starts to get to you, you’re Cancún has a reputation as a only a ferry ride away from the action bustling, modern megaresort, it’s also in Cancún. See chapter 5. a great place for exploring Caribbean • Cozumel: It may not have lots of big, reefs, peaceful lagoons, and the sur- sandy beaches, but Cozumel has rounding jungle. The most tranquil something the mainland doesn’t: the waters and beaches on Cancún Island calm, flat waters of the sheltered are those at the northern tip, facing western shore. It’s so easy, it’s like the Bahía de Mujeres. See chapter 4. swimming in an aquarium. Cozumel • Isla Mujeres: If laid-back is what also has lots to see under the water. you’re after, this idyllic island offers See chapter 5. peaceful, small-town beach life at its • Playa del Carmen: This is one of our best. Most accommodations are absolute favorite Mexican beach vaca- smaller, inexpensive inns, with a few tions. Stylish and hip, Playa del Car- unique, luxurious places tossed in. men has a beautiful beach and an Bike—or take a golf cart—around eclectic assortment of small hotels, the island to explore rocky coves and inns, and cabañas. The social scene sandy beaches, or focus your tanning focuses on the beach by day and the efforts on the wide beachfront of pedestrian-only Quinta Avenida (Fifth Playa Norte. Here you’ll find calm Avenue) by night, with its fun assort- waters and palapa restaurants, where ment of restaurants, clubs, sidewalk 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 4
4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN Mexico
TijuanaTijuana MexicaliMexicali UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES UNITED STATES EnsenadaEnsenada 2 BAJABAJA CiudadCiudad CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA JuJJuárezuárezrez NORTENORTE PuertoPuerto NogalesNogales PenascoPenasco 2 SanSan QuintinQuintin 45 SONORASONORA 15 1 10 OjinagaOjinaga HermosilloHermosillo CHIHUAHUACHIHUAHUA GuerreroGuerrero 18 Piedras Negras IslaIsla NegroNegro 16 ChihuahuaChihuahua CedrosCedros 16 CuidadCuidad CuauhtCCuauhtémocuauhtémocmoc COAHUILACOAHUILA SantaSanta ObregOObregónbregón RosaliaRosalia DDeliciaselicias Nuevo Laredo MulegéMulegMulegé BAJABAJA HidalgoHidalgo MonclovaMonclova CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA deldel PParralarral SURSUR 49 30 LoretoLoreto 57 SINALOASINALOA 45 Monterrey LosLos TorreTTorreónorreón 40 Matamoros MochisMochis DURANGODURANGO SaltilloSaltillo CuliacCCuliacánuliacán NUEVO 1 LEÓN LaLa PazPaz 15 SeaSea ofof CortCortésCortés DurangoDurango TAMAULIPAS 40 SanSan JosJJoséosé FresnilloFresnillo 54 Ciudad Victoria TTodosodos SSantosantos deldel CaboCabo MazatlánMazatlMazatlán ZACATECASZACATECAS CaboCabo SanSan LucasLucas ZacatecasZacatecas SanSan Ciudad Mante 15 LuisLuis PotosPPotosíotosí Tampico Río Lagartos Isla TuxpanTuxpan AGUASCALIENTESAGUASCALIENTES SAN LUIS SanSan BlasBlas Progreso Mujeres TepicTepic POTOSÍ Valladolid AguascalientesAguascalientes Cancún IslasIslas San Miguel Tuxpan NAYARITNAYARIT LeónLeLeón de Allende Celestún MariasMarias Mérida Cozumel GuadalajaraGuadalajara QUERÉTARO GuanajuatoGuanajuato Poza Rica YUCATÁN Playa del PuertoPuerto VallartaVallarta Carmen GUANA-GUANA- HIDALGO Papantla Querétaro Campeche Punta JALISCOJALISCO LakeLake ChapalaChapala JUATOJUATO Pachuca QUINTANA Allen MoreliaMorelia Bay of BarraBarra dede NavidadNavidad UruapanUruapan Mexico City Xalapa CAMPECHE ROO Toluca TLAXCALA Campeche Bacalar ColimaColima Tlaxcala Veracruz Majahual ManzanilloManzanillo PPátzcuaroátzcuarotzcuaro Cuernavaca Puebla Escárcega Peninsula MICHOACANMICHOACAN COLIMACOLIMA PUEBLA Orizaba Catemaco Chetumal 37 MORELOS TABASCO 200 Tehuacán Taxco VERACRUZ Villahermosa LázaroLázarozaro Coatzacoalcos GUERRERO Palenque CárdenasCárdenasrdenas BELIZE San Cristóbal ZihuatanejoZihuatanejo Oaxaca Tuxtla & IxtapaIxtapa Acapulco Gutiérrez de las Casas OAXACA PACIFICP A C I F I C CHIAPAS Salina Comitan OCEANO C E A N Puerto Escondido Cruz GUATEMALA Huatulco Puerto Ángel HONDURAS Tapachula EL SALVADOR 0 150 mi N 0 150 km 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 5
THE BEST BEACH VACATIONS 5
Tijuana Mexicali UNITED STATES UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES Ensenada
BAJA Ciudad CALIFORNIA Juárez NORTE Puerto Nogales Penasco San Quintin
SONORA
Ojinaga Hermosillo CHIHUAHUA Guerrero PiedrasPiedras NegrasNegras Isla Negro Chihuahua Cedros Cuidad Cuauhtémoc COAHUILA Santa Obregón Rosalia Delicias NNuevouevo LLaredoaredo Mulegé BAJA Hidalgo Monclova CALIFORNIA del Parral SUR 85D Loreto SINALOA MonterreyMonterrey Los Torreón MatamorosMatamoros Gulf of Mexico Mochis DURANGO Saltillo 180 Culiacán NUEVONUEVO LEÓNLELEÓN 85 La Paz Sea of Cortés Durango TAMAULIPASTAMAULIPAS
San José Fresnillo CiudadCiudad VictoriaVictoria Todos Santos del Cabo Mazatlán ZACATECAS Cabo San Lucas Zacatecas San Luis CiudadCiudad MManteante Potosí TampicoTampico RRíoío LagartosLagartos IslaIsla Tuxpan AGUASCALIENTES SANSAN LLUISUIS San Blas ProgresoProgreso MujeresMujeres Tepic POTOSPPOTOSÍOTOSÍ ValladolidValladolid Aguascalientes CancCCancúnancún Islas SanSan MiguelMiguel TuxpanTuxpan 180 NAYARIT León dede AllendeAllende CelestCCelestúnelestún Marias MMéridaéridarida CozumelCozumel Guadalajara QUERQQUERÉTAROUERÉTAROTARO Guanajuato PozaPoza RicaRica YUCATYYUCATÁNUCATÁN PlayaPlaya deldel Puerto Vallarta CarmenCarmen GUANA- HIDALGOHIDALGO PapantlaPapantla QuerQQuerétarouerétarotaro CampecheCampeche PuntaPunta JALISCO Lake Chapala JUATO PachucaPachuca 180 QUINTANAQUINTANA AllenAllen Morelia BayBay ooff Barra de Navidad Uruapan MexicoMexico CCityity XalapaXalapa CAMPECHECAMPECHE ROOROO TolucaToluca TLAXCALATLAXCALA CampecheCampeche BacalarBacalar Colima TlaxcalaTlaxcala VeracruzVeracruz 261 MajahualMajahual Manzanillo Pátzcuaro CuernavacaCuernavaca PueblaPuebla EscEEscárcegascárrcegacega PeninsulaPeninsula MICHOACAN COLIMA PUEBLAPUEBLA OrizabaOrizaba CatemacoCatemaco ChetumalChetumal MORELOSMORELOS TABASCOTABASCO TehuacTTehuacánehuacán TaxcoTaxco 95 VERACRUZVERACRUZ VillahermosaVillahermosa 186 Lázaro 190D CoatzacoalcosCoatzacoalcos GUERREROGUERRERO 175 PalenquePalenque Cárdenas BELIZEBELIZE 186 SanSan CristCCristóbalristóbalbal Caribbean Zihuatanejo OaxacaOaxaca TuxtlaTuxtla & Ixtapa AcapulcoAcapulco GutiGGutiérrezutiérrezrrez dede laslas CasasCasas Sea 200 OAXACAOAXACA P A C I F I C CHIAPASCHIAPAS SalinaSalina ComitanComitan O C E A N PuertoPuerto EscondidoEscondido CruzCruz GUATEMALAGUATEMALA HuatulcoHuatulco 200 PuertoPuerto Gulf of ÁÁngelnngelgel Tehuantepec HONDURASHONDURAS TapachulaTapachula ELEL SALVADORSALVADOR 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 6
6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN cafes, and shops. You’re also close to slice of paradise far from crowds and the coast’s major attractions, includ- megaresorts. The bustling town lies ing nature parks, ruins, and, cenotes inland; at the coast, things are quiet (sinkholes or natural wells). Cozumel and will remain so because all these Island is just a quick ferry trip away. hotels are small and must generate Enjoy it while it’s still a manageable their own electricity. If you can pull size. See chapter 6. yourself away from the beach, nearby • Tulum: Fronting some of the best are ruins to explore and a vast nature beaches on the entire coast, Tulum’s preserve. See chapter 6. small palapa hotels offer guests a little
2 The Best Cultural Experiences • Exploring the Inland Yucatán Penin- • San Cristóbal de las Casas: The city sula: Travelers who venture only to the of San Cristóbal is a living museum, Yucatán’s resorts and cities miss the with 16th-century colonial architec- rock-walled inland villages, where ture and pre-Hispanic native influ- women wear colorful embroidered ences. The highland Maya live in dresses and life seems to proceed as surrounding villages and arrive daily though the modern world (with the in town wearing colorful handmade exception of highways) didn’t exist. clothing. The villages are a window The adventure of seeing newly uncov- into another world, giving visitors a ered ruins, deep in jungle settings, is glimpse of traditional Indian dress, not to be missed. See chapters 6 and 7. religious customs, churches, and cer- • Street & Park Entertainment emonies. See chapter 8. (Mérida): Few cities have so vibrant a • Regional Cuisine: A trip to the street scene as Mérida. Throughout Yucatán allows for a culinary tour of the week you can catch music and some of Mexico’s finest foods. Don’t dance performances in plazas about miss specialties such as pollo or the city, and on Sunday, Mérida really cochinita pibil (chicken or pork in gets going—streets are closed off, food savory achiote sauce), great seafood stalls spring up everywhere, and you dishes, the many styles of tamal found can enjoy a book fair, a flea market, throughout Chiapas and the Yucatán, comedy acts, band concerts, and and Caribbean-influenced foods such dance groups. At night, the main plaza as fried bananas, black beans, and yuca is the place to be: People dance to root. For a glossary of popular regional mambos and rumbas in the street in dishes, see appendix B. front of the town hall. See chapter 7.
3 The Best Archaeological Sites • Calakmul: Of the many elegantly Calakmul Biological Reserve). Calak- built Maya cities of the Río Bec area in mul is a walled city with the tallest the lower Yucatán, Calakmul is the pyramid in the Yucatán—a city whose broadest in scope and design. It’s primary inhabitants are the trees that also one of the hardest to get to— populate the plazas. Go now, while it about 48km (30 miles) from the remains infrequently visited. See “The Guatemalan border and completely Río Bec Ruin Route” in chapter 6. surrounded by jungle (actually, the 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 7
THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS 7 • Tulum: Some dismiss Tulum as less body slithering from peak to the important than other ruins in the earth at each equinox (Mar 21 and Yucatán Peninsula, but this seaside Sept 21). See “The Ruins of Chichén Maya fortress is still inspiring. The Itzá” in chapter 7. stark contrast of its crumbling stone • Ek Balam: In recent years, this is the walls against the clear turquoise site where some of Mexico’s most ocean just beyond is an extraordinary astounding archaeological discoveries sight. See “Tulum, Punta Allen & have been made. Ek Balam’s main Sian Ka’an” in chapter 6. pyramid is taller than Chichén Itzá’s, • Uxmal: No matter how many times I and it holds a sacred doorway bor- see Uxmal, the splendor of its stone dered with elaborate stucco figures of carvings remains awe-inspiring. A priests and kings and rich iconogra- stone rattlesnake undulates across the phy. See “Ek Balam: Dark Jaguar” in facade of the Nunnery complex, and chapter 7. 103 masks of Chaac—the rain god— • Palenque: The ancient builders of project from the Governor’s Palace. See these now-ruined structures carved “The Ruins of Uxmal” in chapter 7. histories in stone that scholars have • Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the giant only recently deciphered. Imagine the serpent head at the foot of the El magnificent ceremony in A.D. 683 Castillo pyramid and marvel at the when King Pacal was buried below architects and astronomers who posi- ground in a secret pyramidal tomb— tioned the building so precisely that unspoiled until its discovery in 1952. shadow and sunlight form a serpent’s See “Palenque” in chapter 8.
4 The Best Active Vacations • Scuba Diving in Cozumel & along • Cenote Diving on the Yucatán Main- the Yucatán’s Caribbean Coast: The land: Dive into the clear depths of the coral reefs off the island, Mexico’s Yucatán’s cenotes for an interesting twist premier diving destination, are among on underwater exploration. The Maya the top five dive spots in the world. considered the cenotes sacred—and The Yucatán’s coastal reef, part of the their vivid colors so indeed seem other- second-largest reef system in the world, worldly. Most are between Playa del affords excellent diving all along the Carmen and Tulum, and dive shops in coast. Especially beautiful is the Chin- these areas regularly run trips for expe- chorro Reef, lying 32km (20 miles) rienced divers. For recommended dive offshore from Majahual or Xcalak. shops, see “Cozumel” in chapter 5, and Diving from Isla Mujeres is also quite “Playa del Carmen” and “South of spectacular. See chapters 5 and 6. Playa del Carmen” in chapter 6. • Fly-Fishing off the Punta Allen & • An Excursion to Bonampak & Yax- Majahual Peninsulas: Serious chilán: Bonampak and Yaxchilán— anglers will enjoy the challenge of fly- two remote, jungle-surrounded Maya fishing the saltwater flats and lagoons sites along the Usumacinta River—are on the protected sides of these penin- now accessible by car and motorboat. sulas. See “Tulum, Punta Allen & The experience could well be the high- Sian Ka’an” and “Majahual, Xcalak & light of any trip. See “Road Trips from the Chinchorro Reef” in chapter 6. San Cristóbal” in chapter 8. 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 8
8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN • Birding: The Yucatán Peninsula, Contoy, with more than 70 species of Tabasco, and Chiapas are an ornitho- birds as well as a host of marine and logical paradise, with hundreds of animal life. See p. 112, chapter 6, and species awaiting the birder’s gaze and chapter 8. list. One very special place is Isla
5 The Best Places to Get Away from It All • Isla Mujeres: If there’s one island in encantado.com): The attractive casitas Mexico that guarantees a respite from are the place to unwind at this resort, stress, it’s Isla Mujeres. You’ll find an where hammocks stretch between ample selection of hotels and restau- trees. The hotel is on the shores of rants, and they’re as laid-back as their placid Lago (Lake) Bacalar, south of patrons. Here life moves along in pure Cancún near Chetumal, and there’s mañana mode. Visitors stretch out and nothing around for miles. But if you doze beneath shady palms or languidly want adventure, you can head out to stroll about. For many, the best part the lake in a kayak, follow a birding about this getaway is that it’s comfort- trail, or take an excursion to Belize and ably close to Cancún’s international the intriguing Maya ruins on the airport, as well as to shopping and din- nearby Río Bec ruin route. See p. 176. ing, should you choose to reconnect. • Hotel Eco Paraíso Xixim (Celestún; See “Isla Mujeres” in chapter 5. & 988/916-2100; www.eco-paraiso. • The Yucatán’s Riviera Maya: Away htm): In these crowded times, space is from the busy resort of Cancún, a a luxury that’s getting harder to come string of quiet getaways, including by. Space is precisely what makes this Capitán Lafitte, Paamul, Punta Bete, place so great: Fifteen bungalows and and a portion of Xpu-ha, offer tran- 5km (3 miles) of beach bordering a quillity on beautiful beaches at low coconut plantation. Throw in a good prices. See “North of Playa del Car- restaurant, a pool, and a couple of men” and “South of Playa del hammocks, and you have that rare Carmen” in chapter 6. combination of comfort and isolation. • Tulum: Near the Tulum ruins, about See p. 204. two-dozen beachside palapa inns • Hacienda San José Cholul: Though offer some of the most peaceful get- only an hour outside the bustling city aways in the country. This stretch just of Mérida, this hacienda feels like might offer the best sandy beaches on another world. The quiet, unhurried the entire coast. Life here among the manner of both guests and staff and birds and coconut palms is decidedly the beautiful tropical surroundings unhurried. See “Tulum, Punta Allen make it the perfect place to recoup & Sian Ka’an” in chapter 6. some of the silence and slow time lost • Rancho Encantado Cottage Resort to the modern world. See “Hacienda (Lago Bacalar; & 800/505-MAYA Hotels” on p. 197. in the U.S., or 983/831-0037; www.
6 The Best Museums • Museo de la Cultura Maya (Chetu- Maya archaeology, architecture, his- mal): This modern museum, one of tory, and mythology. It has interac- the best in the country, explores tive exhibits and a glass floor that 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 9
THE BEST SHOPPING 9 allows visitors to walk above replicas sites, with particular emphasis on the of Maya sites. See p. 177. pre-Hispanic peoples of the Gulf • Museo Regional de Antropología Coast region. See p. 241. (Mérida): Housed in the Palacio • Parque-Museo La Venta (Villaher- Cantón, one of the most beautiful mosa): The Olmec, considered Mex- 19th-century mansions in the city, ico’s mother culture, are the subject this museum showcases area archaeol- of this park/museum, which features ogy and anthropological studies in the magnificent stone remains that handsome exhibits. See p. 191. were removed from the La Venta site • Museo Regional de Antropología not far away. Stroll through a jungle Carlos Pellicer Cámara (Villaher- setting where tropical birds alight, mosa): This anthropology museum and examine the giant carved stone addresses Mexican history in the form heads of the mysterious Olmec. See of objects found at archaeological p. 242.
7 The Best Shopping Some tips on bargaining: Although hag- leisurely shopping at its best. No cars, gling over prices in markets is expected no hassle, simply stroll down the and part of the fun, don’t try to browbeat street and let your eye pick out the vendor or bad-mouth the goods. Ven- objects of interest. Expect a good bit dors won’t bargain with people they con- of merchandise popular with coun- sider disrespectful unless they are desperate terculture types, such as batik cloth- to make a sale. Be insistent but friendly. ing and fabric, Guatemalan textiles, • Resort Wear in Cancún: Resort and inventive jewelry and artwork. clothing—especially if you can find a But you’ll also find quality Mexican sale—can be a bargain here. And the handicrafts, premium tequilas, and selection may be wider than what’s Cuban cigars. See “Playa del Car- available at home. Almost every mall men” in chapter 6. on the island contains trendy bou- • Mérida: This is the marketplace for tiques that specialize in locally the Yucatán—the best place to buy designed and imported clothing. See hammocks, guayaberas, Panama hats, “Shopping” in chapter 4. and Yucatecan huipiles. See “Explor- • Duty Free in Cancún: If you’re look- ing Mérida” in chapter 7. ing for European perfume, fine • San Cristóbal de las Casas: Deep in watches, or other imported goods, the heart of the Maya highlands, San you’ll find the prices in Cancún’s Cristóbal has shops, open plazas, and duty-free shops (at the major malls markets that feature the distinctive on the island and in downtown Can- waist-loomed wool and cotton textiles cún) hard to beat. See “Shopping” in of the region, as well as leather shoes, chapter 4. handsome pottery, and Guatemalan • Precious Gemstones in Isla Mujeres: textiles. Highland Maya Indians sell Isla Mujeres, also a duty-free zone, direct to tourists from their armloads offers an impressive selection of both of textiles, dolls, and attractive minia- precious stones and superb craftsmen ture likenesses of Subcomandante who can make jewelry designs to Marcos—complete with ski masks. order. See “Isla Mujeres” in chapter 5. See “San Cristóbal de las Casas” in • Quinta Avenida, Playa del Carmen: chapter 8. This pedestrian-only street offers 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 10
10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN
8 The Hottest Nightlife Although, as expected, Cancún is the club, offering a Beach Club with a center of much of the Yucatán’s nightlife, wave machine for simulated surfing, a that resort city isn’t the only place to have water slide and beach cabañas, a Ter- a good time after dark. Along the race bar serving food and drinks, and Caribbean coast, beachside dance floors the sizzling Club, at which the world’s with live bands and extended “happy top DJs have spun through the night hours” in seaside bars dominate the until the sun once again rises over the nightlife. Here are some favorite hot turquoise waters. This is truly a City spots, from live music in hotel lobby bars that never sleeps. See p. 97. to hip techno dance clubs. • The Lobby Lounge: Located in Can- • Coco Bongo, Carlos ’n’ Charlie’s, La cún’s luxurious Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Boom & Dady’O: These Cancún bars this is the most elegant evening spot all offer good drinks, hot music, and on the island. Romantic live music, a great dance floors. Mango Tango is a selection of fine cigars, and more than top spot for live Cuban and Caribbean 120 premium tequilas (plus tastings) rhythms in Cancún. See p. 97. allow you to savor the spirit of Mex- • Forum by the Sea: Here’s one place ico. See p. 98. that has it all: The newest of the seaside • San Cristóbal de las Casas: This entertainment centers in Cancún has city, small though it may be, has a a dazzling array of dance clubs, sports live-music scene that can’t be beat for bars, fast food, and fine dining, with fun and atmosphere. The bars and shops open late as well. You’ll find clubs are all within walking distance, plenty of familiar names here, includ- and they’re a real bargain. See “San ing the Hard Rock Cafe and Rainfor- Cristóbal de las Casas” in chapter 8. est Cafe. It’s also the home of Cancún’s • Quinta Avenida, Playa del Carmen: hottest club, Coco Bongo, which can Stroll along lively, pedestrian-only pack in up to 3,000 revelers—and Fifth Avenue to find the bar that’s does so regularly. See p. 97. right for you. With live music venues, • The City: Currently Cancún’s newest tequila bars, sports bars, and cafes, and hottest offering, The City (www. you’re sure to find something to fit thecitycancun.com) is a day-and-night your mood. See p. 142.
9 The Most Luxurious Hotels • Aqua (Cancún; & 800/343-7821 in exceptional cuisine offered at the the U.S.): This brand-new resort, resorts’ three restaurants under the part of the Fiesta Americana chain, direction of celebrity chefs, or chill in was designed with a water theme in the Lounge to cool tunes and tempt- mind. The spa is a 1,500 sq.-m (over ing drinks. See p. 75. 15,000-sq.-ft.) facility that blends • Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Eastern, pre-Hispanic, and Western Spa (Cancún; & 800/543-4300 in treatment philosophies. Tai Chi, the U.S., or 998/881-2200; www. yoga, and Pilates classes are offered, meridiencancun.com.mx): This is the and you can indulge in a full array of most intimate of the luxury hotels in massages and treatments. After you’ve Cancún, with an understated sense of rejuvenated, you can partake of the highly personalized service. Most 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 11
THE BEST BUDGET INNS 11 notable is its 4,546-sq.-m (15,000- and there’s a beautiful seaside pool sq.-ft.) Spa del Mar. See p. 78. and restaurant. See p. 156. • Ritz-Carlton Hotel (Cancún; & 800/ • Maroma (north of Playa del Carmen; 241-3333 in the U.S., or 998/881- & 866/454-9351 in the U.S.): You 0808; www.ritzcarlton.com): Thick cannot ask for a better setting for a carpets, sparkling glass and brass, and resort than this beautiful stretch of rich mahogany surround guests at this Caribbean coast with palm trees and hotel, which clearly sets the standard manicured gardens. You’ll start to for luxury in Cancún. The service is relax before you even take the first sip impeccable, leaving guests with an of your welcome cocktail. Service is overall sense of pampered relaxation. very attentive, and the rooms are In 2004, The Ritz’s spa received an large and luxurious. See p. 156. impressive makeover. See p. 79. • Paraíso de la Bonita (north of Playa • Presidente InterContinental Cozu- del Carmen; & 800/327-0200 in the mel (Cozumel; & 800/327-0200 in U.S.): Operated by InterContinental the U.S., or 987/872-9500; www. Hotels, this resort has a super- cozumel.intercontinental.com): Sur- equipped spa based on the elaborate rounded by shady palms, this hotel system of thalassotherapy. The guest also has the best beach on the island, rooms are elaborate, and the hotel right in front of Paraíso Reef. Favorite provides all kinds of services. It has rooms are the deluxe beachside units three pools and an immaculately kept with spacious patios and direct access beach. See p. 156. to the beach—you can even order • Hacienda Xcanatún (outskirts of romantic in-room dining on the Mérida; & 888/883-3633 in the patios, complete with a trio to serenade U.S.): Large, boldly designed suites you. See p. 132. built with extravagance in mind, • Ikal del Mar (north of Playa del Car- extensive grounds, private spa, excel- men; & 888/230-7330 in the U.S.): lent restaurant, and ample staff—this Small, secluded, and private, Ikal del hotel does the difficult trick of being Mar offers extraordinary personal small in size but large in offerings. See service and spa treatments. Rooms “Hacienda Hotels” on p. 196. are spread out through the jungle,
10 The Best Budget Inns • Cancún INN Suites El Patio (Can- downtown Cancún, this hotel has cún City; & 998/884-3500; www. considered every detail in its quest cancun-suites.com): This European- for an organic and environmentally style inn welcomes many guests for friendly lifestyle. Set in a tropical repeat or long-term stays. Each room garden, the combination of sunny is tastefully decorated, and all sur- rooms, warm service, yoga and medi- round a plant-filled courtyard. Special tation classes, and healthful dining packages combine Spanish lessons and is a welcome respite to party-hearty accommodations. It’s an oasis of cul- Cancún. See p. 83. tured hospitality in one of Mexico’s • Treetops (Playa del Carmen; & 984/ most commercial beach resorts. See 873-0351; www.treetopshotel.com): p. 83. An economical, quiet hotel steps from • Rey del Caribe Hotel (Cancun; both the beach and Avenida 5, Tree- & 998/884-2028): A unique oasis in tops could easily get by on location 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 12
12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN alone. But the owners have gone out character at a great price. The guest of their way to create a distinctive rooms in the original building evoke lodging with plenty of amenities. The an earlier time, while the modern hotel has its very own cenote and piece rooms in back are quite large and of shady jungle, making it a lovely border a lovely patio. See p. 199. place to relax after a trying day of • Hotel Dolores Alba (Mérida; & 999/ strolling the beach and wandering the 928-5650; www.doloresalba.com): village streets. See p. 147. The new rooms offer all the comforts • Casa San Juan (Mérida; & 999/ at a rate that other hotels in this cate- 986-2937; www.casasanjuan.com): gory can’t match. Add to this the new This B&B, in a colonial house in pool and large sunning area, and I call Mérida’s historic district, is the per- it a bargain. See p. 199. fect combination of comfort and
11 The Best Unique Inns • Casa de los Sueños Resort & Spa entrance on happening Avenida 5. See Zenter (Isla Mujeres; & 998/877- p. 147. 0651): This luxury B&B is steeped in • Deseo Hotel + Lounge (Playa del vibrant colors. Its small but well- Carmen; & 984/879-3620): Perhaps appointed spa and “Zenter,” which is it should be Hotel = Lounge. That also accessible to nonguests, offers might be an overstatement, but the yoga classes, massages, and holistic lounge is at the center of everything, spa treatments, which take place making Deseo the perfect fit for out- either outdoors or in a tranquil going types who are into an alterna- indoor space. See p. 113. tive lodging experience. Enjoy a • Hotel Villa Rolandi Gourmet & cocktail at the bar or on one of the Beach Club (Isla Mujeres; & 998/ large daybeds and chill to the modern 877-0700; www.rolandi.com): In lounge music. See p. 145. addition to being steps away from an • Cuzan Guest House (Punta Allen exquisite private cove, a tranquil Peninsula; & 983/834-0358; www. infinity pool, and Isla’s finest dining, flyfishmx.com): Getting to the iso- this intimate inn also pampers guests lated lobster-fishing village of Punta with every conceivable in-room Allen is half the adventure. Then you amenity. Each unit even has a private can retreat to one of the thatched- Jacuzzi on the balcony and a shower roof cottages, swing in a hammock, that converts into a steam room. See dine on lobster and stone crabs, and p. 114. absolutely forget there’s an outside • Hotel Jungla Caribe (Playa del Car- world. There are no phones, televi- men; & 984/873-0650; www.jungla- sions, or newspapers, and “town” is caribe.com): In a town filled with 56km (35 miles) away. Nature trips exceptional inns, this one’s a standout. and fly-fishing are readily arranged. The eclectic decor combines neoclas- See p. 168. sical details with a decidedly tropical • Casa Mexilio Guest House (Mérida; touch. The rooms and suites surround & 800/538-6802 in the U.S., or a stylish courtyard, restaurant, and 999/928-2505; www.mexicoholiday. pool. You couldn’t be better located— com): An imaginative arrangement of 1 block from the beach, with an rooms around a courtyard features a 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 13
THE BEST RESTAURANTS 13 pool surrounded by a riot of tropical anthropology buffs. Built as a semi- vegetation. The rooms are divided nary in 1891, it was transformed into among different levels for privacy and the headquarters of two anthropolo- are connected by stairs and catwalks. gists. The 12 guest rooms, named for Breakfast here provides an extra surrounding villages, are decorated incentive for getting out of bed. See with local objects and textiles; all p. 198. rooms have fireplaces and private • Casa Na-Bolom (San Cristóbal de bathrooms, and the room rate las Casas; & 967/678-1418): This includes breakfast. See p. 259. unique house-museum is terrific for
12 The Best Restaurants Best doesn’t necessarily mean most luxu- selection, including innovative mix- rious. Although some of the restaurants tures like the Cozumel (spinach, listed here are fancy affairs, others are pineapple, and orange) and the simple places to get fine, authentic Caligula (orange, pineapple, beet, Yucatecan cuisine. celery, parsley, carrot, and lime • Aioli (Cancún; & 998/881-2200): juices)—a healthy indulgence. Can- Simply exquisite French and Mediter- cún has several branches. ranean gourmet specialties served in a • Zazil Ha (Isla Mujeres; & 998/ warm and cozy country French set- 877-0279): It doesn’t get more ting, at the hotel Le Méridien. For relaxed and casual than Zazil Ha, with quality and exceptional service, it’s its sandy floor beneath thatched pala- Cancún’s best value in fine dining. See pas and palms. This is the place for p. 85. island atmosphere and well-prepared • Labná (Ciudad Cancún; & 998/ food. Along with its signature seafood 892-3056): Steep yourself in Yucate- and Caribbean cuisine, this restau- can cuisine and music at this down- rant continues to prove that vegetar- town eatery, which showcases Mayan ian cuisine can be both artfully and culture and cuisine. The Labná Spe- tastefully prepared. It also offers spe- cial is a sample of the most traditional cial menus for those participating of this region’s cuisine. See p. 89. in yoga retreats on the island. See • La Dolce Vita (Cancún; & 998/885- p. 118. 0150): A longtime favorite, La Dolce • Cabaña del Pescador (Lobster Vita remains untouched by newer House; Cozumel; no phone): If you arrivals. It continues to draw diners want an ideally seasoned, succulent with such blissful dishes as green tagli- lobster dinner, Cabaña del Pescador olini with lobster medallions, veal (Lobster House) is the place. If you with morels, and fresh salmon with want anything else, you’re out of cream sauce, all served (at night) to luck—lobster dinner, expertly pre- the sound of live jazz music. See pared, is all it serves. When you’ve p. 86. achieved perfection, why bother with • 100% Natural, for Licuados: Licua- anything else? See p. 133. dos, drinks made from fresh fruit • Prima (Cozumel; & 987/872-4242): mixed with water or milk, are much The Italian food here is fresh, fresh, more popular than soft drinks. This fresh—from the hydroponically grown restaurant chain offers the widest vegetables to the pasta and garlic bread. 05_58796x_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 6:59 PM Page 14
14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN And it’s all prepared after you walk is seafood, and nowhere else will you in, most of it by owner Albert find seafood like this. Mexican caviar, Domínguez, who concocts unforget- coconut-battered shrimp, and chiles table shrimp fettuccine with pesto, stuffed with shark are just a few of the crab ravioli with cream sauce, and crisp unique specialties. Thinking about La house salad in a chilled bowl. See Pigua’s pompano in a fine green herb p. 134. sauce makes me want to start checking • Media Luna (Playa del Carmen; flight schedules. See p. 224. & 984/873-0526): The inviting • Yaxché (Playa del Carmen; & 984/ atmosphere of this sidewalk cafe on 873-2502): No restaurant in the Avenida 5 is enough to lure you in. Yucatán explores the region’s culinary The expertly executed and innovative traditions and use of local ingredients menu, together with great prices, more than this one. Its menu presents makes it one of the top choices on the several pleasant surprises and is a wel- Caribbean coast. See p. 149. come relief from the standard offer- • La Pigua (Campeche; & 981/811- ings of most Yucatecan restaurants. 3365): Campeche’s regional specialty See p. 149. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 15
2 Planning Your Trip to the Yucatán by Lynne Bairstow
A little planning can make the difference between a good trip and a great trip. When should you go? What’s the best way to get there? How much should you plan on spending? What festivals or special events will occur during your visit? What safety or health precautions should you take? We’ll answer these and other questions in this chapter. In addition to these basics, I highly recommend taking a little time to learn about the culture and traditions of Mexico and the Yucatán. It can make the difference between simply getting away for a few days and truly adding cultural understanding to your trip. See appendix A for more details.
1 The Regions in Brief Travelers to the peninsula have an oppor- Caribbean. National parks near Celestún tunity to see pre-Hispanic ruins—such as and Río Lagartos on the Gulf Coast are Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, and Tulum—and home to amazing flocks of flamingos. the living descendants of the cultures that To present the Maya world in its built them, as well as the ultimate in entirety, this book also covers the states of resort Mexico: Cancún. The peninsula Tabasco and Chiapas. The Gulf Coast borders the dull aquamarine Gulf of state of Tabasco was once home to the Mexico on the west and north, and the Olmec, the mother culture of Mesoamer- clear blue Caribbean Sea on the east. It ica. At Villahermosa’s Parque–Museo La covers almost 134,400 sq. km (84,000 sq. Venta, you can see the impressive 40-ton miles), with nearly 1,600km (1,000 miles) carved rock heads that the Olmec left of shoreline. Underground rivers and nat- behind. ural wells called cenotes are a peculiar fea- San Cristóbal de las Casas, in Chia- ture of this region. pas, inhabits cooler, greener mountains, Lovely rock-walled Maya villages and and is more in the mold of a provincial crumbling henequén haciendas dot the colonial town. Approaching San Cristóbal interior of the peninsula. The placid inte- from any direction, you see small plots of rior contrasts with the hubbub of the corn tended by colorfully clad Maya. The Caribbean coast. From Cancún south to surrounding villages are home to many Chetumal, the jungle coastline is spotted craftspeople, from woodcarvers to potters with all kinds of development, from posh to weavers. In the eastern lowland jungles to budget. It also boasts an enormous array of Chiapas lie the classic Maya ruins of of wildlife, including hundreds of species of Palenque. Deeper into the interior, for birds. The Gulf Coast beaches, while good those willing to make the trek, are Yax- enough, don’t compare to those on the chilán and Bonampak. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 16
16 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN s y r s The Yucatán Peninsulae a r o u l y e t j o e c t u a r n l n a s o o Isla I Muj M S
C
M n d
a r l i s ú o Isla Conto I Bird Sanct B t Isla Mujeres c r e n u a Isla de z Puerto More P e San Cozumel Canc C Cancún 307 rez r Miguel á Punta Bete Isla Contoy Bird Sanctuary u J Playa del Carmen
o Xcaret t r e Punta Sam Pamul u Puerto Ju P Puerto Juárez Calica Akumal n Puerto Chiquilá a Isla Holbox c NATIONAL PARK XEL-HA LAGOON Puerto Morelos X
Boca Paila Puerto o Punta Allen v Bahia del e Xpu-Ha Espíritu Santo Aventuras Bahía de u la Ascensión Holbox Nuevo Xcan N Xel-Ha Muyil Tulum Kin Vigía 180 Chico Kantunil El Cuyo Cobá SIAN KA'AN RESERVE 180D BIOSPHERE Chunyaxche Ek Balam NATURE RESERVE Chumpón Chemax Tizimín 307 295 RÍO LAGARTOS 295 Valladolid Felipe Puerto Carrillo San José 184 Melchor Ocampo Balancanché Caves Río Lagartos Dzitnup 176 NATURE RESERVE SAN FELIPE Yaxuná Itzamná Izamal Chichén-Itzá Valle Hermoso YUCATÁN ROO 180 Tekax Motul QUINTANA 172 184 Oxkutzcab 18 Mayapán Telchquillo Puerto Acanceh Telchac 27 Chacmultún Loltún Cave Kanasín 4 Mérida Ticul 261 Labná Muna Xlapak 261 Sayil 261 Hopelchen Kabah Dzibilchaltún Progreso Uxmal Uman 25 Halacho Oxkintoc Yucalpetén 281 Sisal Becal Tenabó Edzná Calkiní NATURE RESERVE CELESTÚN CAMPECHE
e f o Celestún h 180 I. Jaina c c o e i
n 180 p ó f t x o l m To CD del Carmen p e a m u Campeche C a h Mexico Mexico M Champotón Champot C Gulf of G Isla Contoy Bird Sanctuary
G u l f o f Isla M e x i c o Puerto Juárez Mujeres Cancún Nuevo Xcan
Puerto Morelos
Campeche
Champotón 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/057:00PMPage17
Sabancuy Los Limones 261 Lázaro Cárdenas CALAKMUL 10 BIOSPHERE RESERVE Majahual Banco Balamkú Bacalar Dzibanché Chinchorro Becán 186 Francisco Xpujil Escárcega Chetumal Chicaná 186 To Villahermosa & Palenque Kohunlich Xcalak Calakmul CALAKMUL BIOSPHERE RESERVE
NAACHTUN- Caribbean Sea MAYA DOS LAGUNAS BIOSPHERE BIOTOPE LAGUNA RESERVE DEL TIGRE– BELIZE RIO ESCONDIDO BIOTOPE EL ZOTZ- TIKAL THE REGIONSINBRIEF SAN MIGUEL– NATIONAL LA PELOTADA PARK UNITED STATES BIOTOPE
Gulf of MEXICO Mexico GUATEMALA Ruins Mexico City BELIZE PACIFIC 0 50 mi OCEAN GUATEMALA N EL SALVADOR CHIAPAS 0 50 km HONDURAS 17 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 18
18 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
2 Visitor Information The Mexico Hot Line (& 800/44- with recorded messages is & 877/FYI- MEXICO) is an excellent source for gen- TRIP. The toll-free fax number for eral information; you can request requesting information is & 888/232- brochures on the country and get answers 3299. Information available by fax is also to the most common questions from the available at www.cdc.gov/travel. exceptionally well-trained, knowledge- MEXICAN GOVERNMENT TOUR- able staff. IST BOARD The board has offices in More information about Mexico is major North American cities, in addition available on the official site of Mexico’s to the main office in Mexico City (& 555/ Tourism Promotion Board, www.visit 203-1103). mexico.com. The U.S. State Department United States: Chicago (& 312/606- (& 202/647-5225; http://travel.state.gov) 9252); Houston (& 713/772-2581, offers a Consular Information Sheet ext. 105, or 713/772-3819); Los Angeles on Mexico (http://travel.state.gov), with (& 310/282-9112); and New York safety, medical, driving, and general travel (& 212/308-2110). The Mexican information gleaned from reports by Embassy is at 1911 Pennsylvania Ave. its offices in Mexico, and consistently N.W., Washington, DC 20005 (& 202/ updated. You can also request the Con- 728-1750). sular Information Sheet by fax (& 202/ Canada: 1 Place Ville-Marie, Suite 647-3000). 1931, Montreal, QUE H3B 2C3 The Centers for Disease Control and (& 514/871-1052); 2 Bloor St. W., Suite Prevention Hot Line (& 800/311-3435 1502, Toronto, ON M4W 3E2 (& 416/ or 404/639-3534; www.cdc.gov) is a 925-0704); 999 W. Hastings, Suite 1110, source of medical information for travelers Vancouver, BC V6C 2W2 (& 604/669- to Mexico and elsewhere. For travelers to 2845). Embassy office: 1500-45 O’Con- Mexico and Central America, the number nor St., Ottawa, ON K1P 1A4 (& 613/ 233-8988; fax 613/235-9123).
3 Entry Requirements & Customs ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Safeguard your passport in an incon- All travelers to Mexico are required to spicuous, inaccessible place like a money present proof of citizenship, such as an belt, and keep a copy of the critical pages original birth certificate with a raised seal, with your passport number in a separate a valid passport, or naturalization papers. place. If you lose your passport, visit the Those using a birth certificate should also nearest consulate of your native country have current photo identification, such as as soon as possible for a replacement. a driver’s license or official ID. If the last For information on how to get a pass- name on the birth certificate is different port, go to “Passports” in the “Fast Facts” from your current name, bring a photo section of this chapter—the websites identification card and legal proof of the listed provide downloadable passport name change, such as the original mar- applications as well as the current fees for riage license or certificate. Photocopies processing passport applications. For an are not acceptable. up-to-date country-by-country listing of Please note that as of December 31, passport requirements around the world, 2006, a passport will be required for air go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” and sea travel to and from Mexico. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 19
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 19 Tabasco & Chiapas
Ciudad del Carmen Escárcega Bay of Campeche CAMPECHE Candelaria 186 Comalcalco 180 TABASCO 180 Villahermosa Cárdenas TABASCO ReformaReforma 203 Palenque Tenosique La Palma VERACRUZ 199 195 Us Simojovel um ac in Agua Azul ta Ocosingo R iv N.P. er YaxchilánYaxchilYaxchilán SumideroSumidero San Cristóbal CanyonCanyon NN.P..P. Toniná de las Casas Frontera OAXACA Corozal 190 TuxtlaTuxtla Bonampak GutiérrezGutiGutié rrezrrez Chiapa de Corzo Amatenango del Valle CHIAPAS Montebello Comitán Lakes N.P. Chapter 8 190
GUATEMALA
200 Cd. Cuauhtémoc
Gulf of UNITED STATES Tehuantepec
Gulf of MEXICO Mexico Tapachula Mexico City Ruins
0 40 mi PACIFIC OCEAN GUATEMALA N EL SALVADOR 0 40 km HONDURAS
Web page of the U.S. State Department passport in Mexico, so guard it carefully. If at http://travel.state.gov. you lose it, you may not be permitted to leave the country until you can replace ONCE YOU’RE IN MEXICO it—a bureaucratic hassle that can take any- You must carry a Mexican Tourist Permit where from a few hours to a week. (FMT), the equivalent of a tourist visa, The FMT can be issued for up to which Mexican border officials issue, free 180 days. Sometimes officials don’t ask but of charge, after proof of citizenship is just stamp a time limit, so be sure to say accepted. Airlines generally provide the “6 months,” or at least twice as long as necessary forms aboard your flight to Mex- you intend to stay. If you decide to extend ico. The FMT is more important than a 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 20
20 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN your stay, you may request that additional number or marking—think laptop com- time be added to your FMT from an offi- puters, cameras, and CD players—with cial immigration office in Mexico. Customs before you leave. Take the items Note: Children under age 18 traveling to the nearest Customs office or register without parents or with only one parent them with Customs at the airport from must have a notarized letter from the which you’re departing. You’ll receive, absent parent(s) authorizing the travel. at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life CUSTOMS of the item. WHAT YOU CAN BRING With some exceptions, you cannot bring INTO MEXICO fresh fruits and vegetables into the United When you enter Mexico, Customs offi- States. For specifics on what you can bring cials will be tolerant as long as you have back, download the invaluable free pam- no illegal drugs or firearms. You’re phlet Know Before You Go from www. allowed to bring in two cartons of ciga- customs.gov. (Click “Traveler Informa- rettes or 50 cigars, plus 1 kilogram (2.2 lb.) tion,” then “Know Before You Go.”) Or of smoking tobacco; two 1-liter bottles of contact the U.S. Customs Service, 1300 wine or hard liquor, and 12 rolls of film. Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC A laptop computer, camera equipment, 20229 (& 877/287-8867) and request the and sports equipment that could feasibly pamphlet. be used during your stay are also allowed. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, The underlying guideline is: Don’t bring request the booklet I Declare from the anything that looks as if it’s meant to be Canada Customs and Revenue Agency resold in Mexico. (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/ WHAT YOU CAN TAKE HOME 983-3500; www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca). Canada Returning U.S. citizens who have been allows citizens a C$750 exemption, and away for at least 48 hours are allowed to you’re allowed to bring back duty-free one bring back, once every 30 days, $800 carton of cigarettes, 1 can of tobacco, worth of merchandise duty-free. You’ll be 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next In addition, you’re allowed to mail gifts to $1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, provided they’re unsolicited and don’t con- the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to tain alcohol or tobacco (write on the pack- have your receipts or purchases handy to age “Unsolicited gift, under $60 value”). expedite the declaration process. Note: If Declare all valuables on the Y-38 form you owe duty, you are required to pay on before departure from Canada, including your arrival in the United States, either by serial numbers of items you already own, cash, personal check, government or trav- such as expensive cameras. Note: The eler’s check, or money order, and in some C$750 exemption can only be used once a locations, a Visa or MasterCard. year and only after an absence of 7 days. To avoid having to pay duty on for- U.K. citizens returning from a non- eign-made personal items you owned E.U. country have a customs allowance before you left on your trip, bring along a of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler’s smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table appraisal, or receipts of purchase. Or wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs you can register items that can be readily (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified identified by a permanently affixed serial wine, sparkling wine, or other liqueurs; 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 21
MONEY 21 60cc (ml) of perfume; 250cc (ml) of toi- currency does not carry import or export let water; and £145 worth of all other restrictions. Fill out a certificate of goods, including gifts and souvenirs. Peo- export, listing the valuables you are tak- ple under 17 cannot have the tobacco or ing out of the country; that way, you can alcohol allowance. For more information, bring them back without paying duty. A contact HM Customs & Excise (& 0845/ free pamphlet available at New Zealand 010-9000, or 020/8929-0152 from out- consulates and Customs offices, New side the U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk). Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, The duty-free allowance in Australia is Notice no. 4, answers most questions. For $400 or, for those under 18, $200. Citizens more information, contact New Zealand can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 of loose tobacco, and 1,125ml of alcohol. Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington If you’re returning with valuables you (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www. already own, such as foreign-made cam- customs.govt.nz). eras, file form B263. A helpful brochure, available from Australian consulates or GOING THROUGH CUSTOMS Customs offices, is Know Before You Go. Mexican Customs inspection has been For more information, contact the Aus- streamlined. At most points of entry, tralian Customs Services (& 1300/363- tourists are requested to press a button in 263; www.customs.gov.au). front of what looks like a traffic signal, The duty-free allowance for New which alternates on touch between red Zealand is $700. Citizens over 17 can and green. Green light and you go bring in 200 cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or through without inspection; red light and 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture if your luggage or car may be inspected. If their combined weight doesn’t exceed you have an unusual amount of luggage 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or an oversized piece, you may be subject or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand to inspection anyway.
4 Money CURRENCY come by, so start collecting them early in The currency in Mexico is the Mexican your trip. Shopkeepers everywhere always peso. Paper currency comes in denomina- seem to be out of change and small bills; tions of 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000 that’s doubly true in markets. pesos. Coins come in denominations of 1, Many establishments that deal with 2, 5, 10, and 20 pesos, and 20 and 50 tourists, especially in coastal resort areas, centavos (100 centavos = 1 peso). The quote prices in dollars. To avoid confu- current exchange rate for the U.S. dollar, sion, they use the abbreviations “Dlls.” and the one used in this book, is around for dollars and “M.N.” (moneda nacional, 10 pesos; at that rate, an item that costs 10 or national currency) for pesos. pesos would be equivalent to US$1. The rate of exchange fluctuates daily, so Getting change is a problem. Small- you probably are better off not exchang- denomination bills and coins are hard to ing too much currency at once. Don’t
Money Matters The universal currency sign ($) is used to indicate pesos in Mexico. The use of this symbol in this book, however, denotes U.S. currency. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 22
22 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
Tips A Few Words About Prices The peso’s value continues to fluctuate—at press time, it was roughly 11 pesos to the dollar. Prices in this book (which are always given in U.S. dollars) have been converted to U.S. dollars at 11 pesos to the dollar. Most hotels in Mexico— with the exception of places that receive little foreign tourism—quote prices in U.S. dollars. Thus, currency fluctuations are unlikely to affect the prices most hotels charge. Mexico has a value-added tax of 15% (Impuesto de Valor Agregado, or IVA; pronounced “ee-vah”) on most everything, including restaurant meals, bus tickets, and souvenirs. (Exceptions are Cancún, Cozumel, and Los Cabos, where the IVA is 10%; as ports of entry, they receive a break on taxes.) Hotels charge the usual 15% IVA, plus a locally administered bed tax of 2% (in most areas), for a total of 17%. In Cancún, Los Cabos, and Cozumel, hotels charge the 10% IVA plus 2% room tax. The prices quoted by hotels and restaurants do not nec- essarily include IVA. You may find that upper-end properties (three or more stars) quote prices without IVA included, while lower-priced hotels include IVA. Always ask to see a printed price sheet and always ask if the tax is included.
forget to have enough pesos to carry you A hotel’s exchange desk commonly over a weekend or Mexican holiday, when pays less favorable rates than banks; how- banks are closed. In general, avoid carry- ever, when the currency is in a state of ing the U.S. $100 bill, the bill most com- flux, higher-priced hotels are known to monly counterfeited in Mexico and pay higher rates than banks, in an effort therefore the most difficult to exchange, to attract dollars. In almost all cases, you especially in smaller towns. Because small receive a better rate by changing money bills and coins in pesos are hard to come first, then paying. by in Mexico, the $1 bill is very useful for tipping. A tip of U.S. coins cannot be BANKS & ATMs exchanged into Mexican currency and is Banks in Mexico are rapidly expanding of no value to the service provider. and improving services. They tend to be The bottom line on exchanging open weekdays from 9am until 5pm, and money: Ask first, and shop around. Banks often for at least a half-day on Saturday. generally pay the top rates. In larger resorts and cities, they can gen- Exchange houses (casas de cambio) are erally accommodate the exchange of dol- generally more convenient than banks lars (which used to stop at noon) anytime because they have more locations and during business hours. During times longer hours; the rate of exchange may be when the currency is in flux, a particular the same as at a bank or slightly lower. bank may not exchange dollars, so check Before leaving a bank or exchange-house before standing in line. Some, but not all, window, count your change in front of banks charge a service fee of about 1% to the teller. exchange traveler’s checks. However, you Large airports have currency-exchange can pay for most purchases directly with counters that often stay open whenever traveler’s checks at the establishment’s flights are operating. Though convenient, stated exchange rate. Don’t even bother they generally do not offer the most with personal checks drawn on a U.S. favorable rates. bank—the bank will wait for your check 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 23
MONEY 23 to clear, which can take weeks, before giv- TRAVELER’S CHECKS ing you your money. These days, traveler’s checks are less neces- Travelers to Mexico can easily withdraw sary because most cities have 24-hour money from ATMs in most major cities ATMs that allow you to withdraw small and resort areas. The U.S. State Depart- amounts of cash as needed. However, keep ment has an advisory against using ATMs in mind that you will likely be charged an in Mexico for safety reasons, stating that ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not they should only be used during business your own, so if you’re withdrawing money hours, but this pertains primarily to Mex- every day, you might be better off with ico City, where crime remains a significant traveler’s checks—provided that you don’t problem. In most resorts in Mexico, the mind showing identification every time use of ATMs is perfectly safe—just use the you want to cash one. same precautions you would at any ATM. You can get traveler’s checks at almost Universal bankcards (such as the Cirrus any bank. American Express offers and PLUS systems) can be used. This is a denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, convenient way to withdraw money and and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You’ll avoid carrying too much with you at any pay a service charge ranging from 1% to time. The exchange rate is generally more 4%. You can also get American Express favorable than that at a currency house. traveler’s checks over the phone by calling Most machines offer Spanish/English & 800/221-7282. menus and dispense pesos, but some offer Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank the option of withdrawing dollars. Be locations nationwide, as well as at several sure to check the daily withdrawal limit other banks. The service charge ranges before you depart. For Cirrus locations between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in abroad, check & 800/424-7787 or www. denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, mastercard.com. For PLUS outlets abroad, and $1,000. Call & 800/732-1322 for check & 800/843-7587 or www.visa. information. MasterCard also offers trav- com. Before you leave home, check your eler’s checks. Call & 800/223-9920 for a daily withdrawal limit, and make sure that location near you. your personal identification number (PIN) works in international destinations. Also CREDIT CARDS keep in mind that many banks impose a Credit cards are a safe way to carry fee every time a card is used at a different money: They also provide a convenient bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for record of all your expenses, and they gen- international transactions (up to $5 or erally offer relatively good exchange rates. more) than for domestic ones. You can also withdraw cash advances You can also get cash advances on your from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that provided you know your PIN. If you’ve credit card companies try to protect them- forgotten yours, or didn’t even know you selves from theft by limiting the funds had one, call the number on the back of someone can withdraw outside their your credit card and ask the bank to send home country, so call your credit card it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business company before you leave home. And days, though some banks will provide the keep in mind that you’ll pay interest from number over the phone if you tell them the moment of your withdrawal, even if your mother’s maiden name or some you pay your monthly bills on time. other personal information. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 24
24 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
Tips Dear Visa: I’m Off to Cancún! Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of any impend- ing trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious and block your charges when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination. Even if you don’t call your credit card company in advance, you can call always the toll-free emergency number (see “Fast Facts,” later in this chapter) if a charge is refused—a good reason to carry the phone number with you. But perhaps the most important lesson is to carry more than one card on your trip; if one card doesn’t work for any number of reasons, you’ll have a backup.
Keep in mind that when you use your your card, but there may be a wait of credit card abroad, most banks assess a 20 minutes to 2 hours. 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa Charges will be made in pesos, then or MasterCard or American Express for converted into dollars by the bank issuing currency conversion on credit charges. the credit card. Generally you receive the But credit cards still may be the smart favorable bank rate when paying by credit way to go when you factor in things like card. However, be aware that some estab- exorbitant ATM fees and higher traveler’s lishments in Mexico add a 5% to 7% sur- check exchange rates (and service fees). charge when you pay with a credit card. In Mexico Visa, MasterCard, and This is especially true when using Ameri- American Express are the most accepted can Express. Many times, advertised dis- cards. You’ll be able to charge most hotel, counts will not apply if you pay with a restaurant, and store purchases, as well as credit card. almost all airline tickets, on your credit For tips and telephone numbers to call card. You generally can’t charge gasoline if your wallet is stolen or lost, go to “Lost purchases in Mexico. You can get cash & Found” in the “Fast Facts” section of advances of several hundred dollars on this chapter.
5 When to Go SEASONS approaching those charged in the winter High season in the Yucatán begins around months. December 20 and continues to Easter. Generally speaking, Mexico’s dry sea- This is the best time for calm, warm son runs from November to April, with weather; snorkeling, diving, and fishing the rainy season stretching from May to (the calmer weather means clearer and October. It isn’t a problem if you’re stay- more predictable seas); and for visiting the ing close to the beaches, but for those ruins that dot the interior of the peninsula. bent on road-tripping to Chichén Itzá, Book well in advance if you plan to be in Uxmal, or other sites, temperatures and Cancún around the holidays. humidity in the interior can be down- Low season begins the day after Easter right stifling from May to July. Later in and continues to mid-December; during the rainy season, the frequency of tropi- low season, prices may drop 20% to 50%. cal storms and hurricanes increases; In Cancún and along the Riviera Maya, such storms, of course, can put a crimp in demand by European visitors is creating a your vacation. But they can lower tem- summer high season, with hotel rates peratures, making climbing ruins a real 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 25
YUCATAN CALENDAR OF EVENTS 25 joy, accompanied by cool air and a slight a ceremony that mixes pre-Hispanic wind. November is especially ideal for and European traditions marking the Yucatán travels. Cancún, Cozumel, and end of winter. Those who attended the Isla Mujeres also have a rainy season from Three Kings Day celebration reunite to November to January, when northern share atole and tamales at a party storms hit. This usually means diving vis- hosted by the recipient of the doll ibility is diminished—and conditions found in the Rosca. February 2. may prevent boats from even going out. Constitution Day (Día de la Consti- Villahermosa is sultry and humid all tución). National holiday. Celebration the time. San Cristóbal de las Casas, at an in honor of the signing of the constitu- elevation of 2,152m (7,100 ft.), is much tion that currently governs Mexico, cooler than the lowlands and is down- signed in 1917 as a result of the revolu- right cold in winter. tionary war of 1910. This holiday is cel- ebrated with small parades. February 5. YUCATAN CALENDAR Carnaval. This celebration takes place OF EVENTS over the 3 days preceding Ash Wednes- During national holidays, Mexican banks and day and the beginning of Lent. It is cel- governmental offices—including immigration— ebrated with special gusto in Cozumel, are closed. where it resembles Mardi Gras in New January Orleans, with a festive atmosphere and New Year’s Day (Año Nuevo). parades. Transportation and hotels are National holiday. Perhaps the quietest packed, so it’s best to make reservations day in all of Mexico; most people stay well in advance and arrive a couple of home or visit church. All businesses days before the celebrations begin. close. In traditional indigenous com- Ash Wednesday. The start of Lent and munities, new tribal leaders are inaugu- a time of abstinence, this is a day of rated with colorful ceremonies rooted reverence nationwide, but some towns in the pre-Hispanic past. January 1. honor it with folk dancing and fairs. Three Kings Day (Día de Reyes). March Nationwide. Commemorates the Three Benito Juárez’s Birthday. National Kings bringing gifts to the Christ holiday. Small hometown celebrations Child. On this day, children receive crop up countrywide. March 21. presents, much like the traditional gift- Spring Equinox, Chichén Itzá. On giving that accompanies Christmas in the first day of spring, the Temple the United States. Friends and families of Kukulkán—Chichén Itzá’s main gather to share the Rosca de Reyes, a pyramid—aligns with the sun, and the special cake. Inside the cake is a small shadow of the plumed serpent moves doll representing the Christ Child; slowly from the top of the building whoever receives the doll in his or her down. When the shadow reaches the piece must host a tamales-and-atole bottom, the body joins the carved party the next month. January 6. stone snake’s head at the base of the February pyramid. According to ancient legend, Candlemas (Día de la Candelaria). at the moment that the serpent is Nationwide. Music, dances, proces- whole, the earth is fertilized to ensure a sions, food, and other festivities lead bountiful growing season. Visitors up to a blessing of seed and candles in come from around the world to marvel 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 26
26 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN at this sight, so advance arrangements Cancún Jazz Festival. For dates and are advisable. The serpent view is at its schedule information, check & 800/ peak on March 21, but the he shadow 44-MEXICO or www.cancun.info. can be seen from March 19 to 23. Else- June where, the equinox is celebrated with Navy Day (Día de la Marina). All festivals and celebrations to welcome coastal towns celebrate with naval spring in the custom of the ancient parades and fireworks. June 1. Mexicans, with dances and prayers to the elements and the four cardinal Corpus Christi. Nationwide. The day points, to renew their energy for the honors the Body of Christ (the year. It’s customary to wear white with Eucharist) with religious processions, a red ribbon. Masses, and food. Dates vary. April Día de San Pedro (St. Peter and St. Holy Week. This celebrates the last Paul’s Day). Nationwide. Celebrated week in the life of Christ from Palm wherever St. Peter is the patron saint, Sunday to Easter Sunday with somber this holiday honors anyone named religious processions almost nightly, Pedro or Peter. June 29. spoofing of Judas, and reenactments of August specific biblical events, plus food and Assumption of the Virgin Mary. This craft fairs. Businesses close during this is celebrated throughout the country traditional week of Mexican national with special Masses and in some places vacations. with processions. August 20 to 22. If you plan on traveling to or around September Mexico during Holy Week, make your Independence Day. This day of reservations early. Airline seats on parades, picnics, and family reunions flights into and out of the country will throughout the country celebrates be reserved months in advance. Buses Mexico’s independence from Spain. At to almost anywhere in Mexico will be 11pm on September 15, the president full, so try arriving on the Wednesday of Mexico gives the famous independ- or Thursday before Good Friday. The ence grito (shout) from the National week following Easter is also a tradi- Palace in Mexico City, and local mayors tional vacation period. do the same in every town and munic- May ipality all over Mexico. On September Labor Day. National holiday. Work- 16, every city and town conducts a ers’ parades take place countrywide, parade in which both government and and everything closes. May 1. civilians display their pride in being Holy Cross Day (Día de la Santa Mexican. For these celebrations, all Cruz). Workers place a cross on top of important government buildings are unfinished buildings and celebrate draped in the national colors—red, with food, bands, folk dancing, and green, and white—and the towns blaze fireworks around the work site. May 3. with lights. September 15 and 16; Sep- tember 16 is a national holiday. Cinco de Mayo. National holiday. This holiday celebrates the defeat of the Fall Equinox, Chichén Itzá. The same French at the Battle of Puebla. May 5. shadow play that occurs during the spring equinox repeats at the fall equi- Feast of San Isidro. The patron saint nox. September 21 to 22. of farmers is honored with a blessing of seeds and work animals. May 15. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 27
TRAVEL INSURANCE 27 October Mexico. This is one of Mexico’s most Día de la Raza (“Ethnicity Day” or moving and beautiful displays of tradi- Columbus Day). This commemorates tional culture. The Virgin of Guadalupe the fusion of the Spanish and Mexican appeared to a young man, Juan Diego, peoples. October 12. in December 1531, on a hill near Mex- November ico City. He convinced the bishop that Day of the Dead. What’s commonly he had seen the apparition by revealing called the Day of the Dead is actually his cloak, upon which the Virgin was 2 days: All Saints’ Day, honoring saints emblazoned. It’s customary for children and deceased children, and All Souls’ to dress up as Juan Diego, wearing mus- Day, honoring deceased adults. Rela- taches and red bandanas. One of the tives gather at cemeteries countrywide, most famous and elaborate celebrations carrying candles and food, and often takes place at the Basílica of Guadalupe, spend the night beside the graves of north of Mexico City, where the Virgin loved ones. Weeks before, bakers begin appeared. Every village celebrates this producing bread formed in the shape day, though, often with processions of of mummies or round loaves decorated children carrying banners of the Virgin with bread “bones.” Decorated sugar and with charreadas (rodeos), bicycle skulls emblazoned with glittery names races, dancing, and fireworks. Decem- are sold everywhere. Many days ahead, ber 12. homes and churches erect special altars Christmas Posadas. On each of the 9 laden with Day of the Dead bread, nights before Christmas, it’s customary fruit, flowers, candles, favorite foods, to reenact the Holy Family’s search for and photographs of saints and of the an inn, with door-to-door candlelit deceased. On the 2 nights, children processions in cities and villages nation- dress in costumes and masks, often car- wide. These are also hosted by most rying through the streets mock coffins businesses and community organiza- and pumpkin lanterns, into which tions, taking the place of the northern they expect money will be dropped. tradition of a Christmas party. Decem- November 1 and 2; November 1 is a ber 15 to 24. national holiday. Christmas. Mexicans extend this cele- Revolution Day. National holiday. bration and often leave their jobs This commemorates the start of the beginning 2 weeks before Christmas all Mexican Revolution in 1910 with the way through New Year’s Day. parades, speeches, rodeos, and patriotic Many businesses close, and resorts and events. November 20. hotels fill up. Significant celebrations December take place on December 24. Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe. New Year’s Eve. As in the rest of the Throughout the country, religious pro- world, New Year’s Eve in Mexico is cel- cessions, street fairs, dancing, fireworks, ebrated with parties, fireworks, and and Masses honor the patroness of plenty of noise. December 31.
6 Travel Insurance Check your existing insurance policies medical expenses. The cost of travel and credit card coverage before you buy insurance varies widely, depending on the travel insurance. You may already be cov- cost and length of your trip, your age and ered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, or health, and the type of trip you’re taking. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 28
28 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN If you’ll be driving in Mexico, see “Get- Access America (& 866/807-3982; www. ting There: By Car” and “Getting Around accessamerica.com); Travel Guard Inter- Mexico: By Car,” later in this chapter, for national (& 800/826-4919; www.travel information on collision and damage guard.com); Travel Insured Interna- and personal accident insurance. tional (& 800/243-3174; www.travel insured.com); and Travelex Insurance TRIP-CANCELLATION INSURANCE & Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get Services ( 888/457-4602; www.travelex- your money back if you have to back out insurance.com). of a trip, if you have to go home early, or MEDICAL INSURANCE For travel if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. overseas, most health plans (including Allowed reasons for cancellation can range Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide from sickness to natural disasters to the coverage, and the ones that do often State Department’s declaring your destina- require you to pay for services upfront tion unsafe for travel. In this unstable and reimburse you only after you return world, trip-cancellation insurance is a home. Even if your plan does cover over- good buy if you’re getting tickets well in seas treatment, most out-of-country hos- advance—who knows what the state of the pitals make you pay your bills up front, world, or of your airline, will be in and send you a refund only after you’ve 9 months? Insurance policy details vary, so returned home and filed the necessary read the fine print—and especially make paperwork with your insurance company. sure that your airline or cruise line is on As a safety net, you may want to buy the list of carriers covered in case of bank- travel medical insurance, particularly if ruptcy. A good resource is “Travel Guard you’re traveling to a remote or high-risk Alerts,” a list of companies considered area where emergency evacuation is a pos- high-risk by Travel Guard International sible scenario. If you require additional (see website below). Protect yourself fur- medical insurance, try MEDEX Assis- ther by paying for the insurance with a tance (& 410/453-6300; www.medex credit card—by law, consumers can get assist.com) or Travel Assistance Interna- their money back on goods and services tional (& 800/821-2828; www.travel not received if they report the loss within assistance.com; for general information 60 days after the charge is listed on their on services, call the company’s World- credit card statement. wide Assistance Services, Inc., at & 800/ Note: Many tour operators, particu- 777-8710). larly those offering trips to remote or LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE On high-risk areas, include insurance in the domestic flights, checked baggage is cov- cost of the trip or can arrange insurance ered up to $2,500 per ticketed passenger. policies through a partnering provider, a On international flights (including U.S. convenient and often cost-effective way portions of international trips), baggage is for the traveler to obtain insurance. Make limited to approximately $9.05 per sure the tour company is a reputable one, pound, up to approximately $635 per however: Some experts suggest you avoid checked bag. If you plan to check items buying insurance from the tour or cruise more valuable than the standard liability, company you’re traveling with, saying it’s see if your valuables are covered by your better to buy from a “third party” insurer homeowner’s policy, get baggage insur- than to put all your money in one place. ance as part of your comprehensive For more information, contact one of travel-insurance package, or buy Travel the following recommended insurers: Guard’s “BagTrak” product. Don’t buy 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 29
HEALTH & SAFETY 29 insurance at the airport, where it’s usually baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The overpriced. Be sure to take any valuables airlines are required to deliver luggage, or irreplaceable items with you in your once found, directly to your house or des- carry-on luggage, because airline policies tination free of charge. don’t cover many valuables (including The bottom line: Always, always check books, money, and electronics). the fine print before you sign; more and If your luggage is lost, immediately file more policies have built-in exclusions and a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detail- restrictions that may leave you out in the ing the contents. For most airlines, you cold if something goes awry. must report delayed, damaged, or lost
7 Health & Safety STAYING HEALTHY COMMON AILMENTS GENERAL AVAILABILITY HIGH-ALTITUDE HAZARDS Trav- OF HEALTH CARE elers to certain regions of Mexico occa- In most of the Yucatán’s resort destina- sionally experience elevation sickness, tions, health care meeting U.S. standards which results from the relative lack of is now available. Mexico’s major cities are oxygen and the decrease in barometric also known for their excellent health care, pressure that characterizes high elevations although the facilities available may be (more than 1,515m/5,000 ft.). Symptoms sparser, and equipment older than what is include shortness of breath, fatigue, available at home. Prescription medicine headache, insomnia, and even nausea. is broadly available at Mexico pharma- Mexico City is at 2,121m (7,000 ft.) above cies; however be aware that you may need sea level, as are a number of other central a copy of your prescription, or to obtain and southern cities, such as San Cristóbal a prescription from a local doctor. de las Casas (even higher than Mexico Contact the International Associa- City). At high elevations, it takes about tion for Medical Assistance to Travelers 10 days to acquire the extra red blood cor- (IAMAT; & 716/754-4883, or 416/ puscles you need to adjust to the scarcity 652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for of oxygen. To help your body acclimate, tips on travel and health concerns in the drink plenty of fluids, avoid alcoholic bev- countries you’re visiting, and lists of local, erages, and don’t overexert yourself during English-speaking doctors. The U.S. Cen- the first few days. If you have heart or lung ters for Disease Control and Preven- problems, talk to your doctor before going tion (& 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) above 2,424m (8,000 ft.). provides up-to-date information on BUGS, BITES & OTHER WILDLIFE health hazards by region or country and CONCERNS Mosquitoes and gnats offers tips on food safety. are prevalent along the coast and in the
Tips Over-the-Counter Drugs in Mexico Antibiotics and other drugs that you’d need a prescription to buy in the States are available over the counter in Mexican pharmacies. Mexican pharmacies also carry a limited selection of common over-the-counter cold, sinus, and allergy remedies. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 30
30 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN Yucatán lowlands. Insect repellent (repe- even his or her own. You can also try the lente contra insectos) is a must, and it’s not emergency room at a local hospital. Many always available in Mexico. If you’ll be in hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emer- these areas and are prone to bites, bring gency cases that are not life-threatening; along a repellent that contains the active you may not get immediate attention, ingredient DEET. Avon’s Skin So Soft but you won’t pay the high price of an also works extremely well. Another good emergency room visit. We list hospitals remedy to keep the mosquitoes away is to and emergency numbers under “Fast mix citronella essential oil with basil, Facts” in each destination’s chapter. clove, and lavender essential oils. If you’re If you suffer from a chronic illness, sensitive to bites, pick up some antihista- consult your doctor before you depart. mine cream from a drugstore at home. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, Most readers won’t ever see a scorpion or heart problems, wear a Medic Alert (alacrán). But if one stings you, go imme- Identification Tag (& 800/825-3785; diately to a doctor. In Mexico you can www.medicalert.org), which will imme- buy scorpion toxin antidote at any drug- diately alert doctors to your condition store. It is an injection and it costs around and give them access to your records $25. This is a good idea if you plan to through Medic Alert’s 24-hour hot line. camp in a remote area where medical Pack prescription medications in assistance can be several hours away. your carry-on luggage, and carry them in MORE SERIOUS DISEASES You their original containers, with pharmacy shouldn’t be overly concerned about tropi- labels—otherwise they won’t make it cal diseases if you stay on the normal through airport security. Also bring along tourist routes and don’t eat street food. copies of your prescriptions in case you However, both dengue fever and cholera lose your pills or run out. Don’t forget an have appeared in Mexico in recent years. extra pair of contact lenses or prescription Talk to your doctor or to a medical spe- glasses. Carry the generic name of pre- cialist in tropical diseases about precau- scription medicines, in case a local phar- tions you should take. You can also get macist is unfamiliar with the brand name. medical bulletins from the U.S. State Contact the International Associa- Department and the Centers for Disease tion for Medical Assistance to Travelers Control and Prevention (see “Visitor (& 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137; Information,” earlier in this chapter). You www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and can protect yourself by taking some simple health concerns in Mexico and lists of precautions: Watch what you eat and local English-speaking doctors. The U.S. drink; don’t swim in stagnant water Centers for Disease Control and Pre- (ponds, slow-moving rivers, or wells); and vention (& 800/311-3435; www.cdc. avoid mosquito bites by covering up, using gov) provides up-to-date information on repellent, and sleeping under netting. The necessary vaccines and health hazards by most dangerous areas seem to be on Mex- region or country. ico’s west coast, away from the big resorts. EMERGENCY EVACUATION In extreme medical emergencies, a service WHAT TO DO IF YOU GET from the United States will fly people SICK AWAY FROM HOME to American hospitals. Global Lifeline Any foreign consulate can provide a list (& 888/554-9729, or 01-800/305-9400 of area doctors who speak English. If in Mexico) is a 24-hour air ambulance. you get sick, consider asking your hotel Other companies also offer air evacuation concierge to recommend a local doctor— 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 31
HEALTH & SAFETY 31 service; for a list, refer to the U.S. deceit. (See also “Emergencies” under State Department website, http://travel. “Fast Facts,” later in this chapter.) state.gov. BRIBES & SCAMS STAYING SAFE As is the case around the world, there are CRIME the occasional bribes and scams in Mex- I have lived and traveled in Mexico for ico, targeted at people believed to be more than a dozen years, have never had naive—such as the telltale tourist. For any serious trouble, and rarely feel suspi- years Mexico was known as a place where cious of anyone or any situation. You will bribes—called mordidas (bites)—were probably feel physically safer in most expected; however, the country is rapidly Mexican cities and villages than in any changing. Frequently, offering a bribe comparable place at home. However, today, especially to a police officer, is crime in Mexico has received attention in considered an insult, and it can land you the North American press over the past in deeper trouble. several years. Many feel this unfairly exag- If you believe a bribe is being requested, gerates the real dangers, but it should be here are a few tips on dealing with the sit- noted that crime, including taxi robberies, uation. Even if you speak Spanish, don’t kidnappings, and highway carjackings, utter a word of it to Mexican officials. is on the rise. The most severe problems That way you’ll appear innocent, all the have been concentrated in Mexico City, while understanding every word. where even longtime foreign residents will When you are crossing the border, attest to the overall lack of security. should the person who inspects your car Isolated incidents have also occurred in ask for a tip, you can ignore this request— Cancún, Ixtapa, Baja, and even tradition- but understand that the official may sud- ally tranquil Puerto Escondido. Check the denly decide that a complete search of U.S. State Department advisory before your belongings is in order. If faced with a you travel for any notable “hot spots.” See situation where you feel you’re being asked “Visitor Information,” earlier in this for a propina (literally, “tip”; colloquially, chapter, for information on the latest U.S. “bribe”), how much should you offer? State Department advisories. Usually $3 to $5 or the equivalent in pesos Precautions are necessary, but travelers will do the trick. Many tourists have the should be realistic. Common sense is essen- impression that everything works better in tial. You can generally trust people whom Mexico if you “tip,” however, in reality, you approach for help or directions— this only perpetuates the mordida attitude. but be wary of anyone who approaches If you are pleased with a service, feel free to you offering the same. The more insistent tip, but you shouldn’t tip simply to the person is, the more cautious you attempt to get away with something illegal should be. The crime rate is, on the or inappropriate, whether it is crossing the whole, much lower in Mexico than in border without having your car inspected most parts of the United States, and the or not getting a ticket that’s deserved. nature of crimes in general is less violent— Whatever you do, avoid impoliteness; most crime is motivated by robbery or under no circumstances should you insult jealousy. Random, violent, or serial crime a Latin American official. Extreme polite- is essentially unheard of in Mexico. You ness, even in the face of adversity, rules are much more likely to meet kind and Mexico. In Mexico, gringos have a reputa- helpful Mexicans than you are to tion for being loud and demanding. By encounter those set on thievery and adopting the local custom of excessive 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 32
32 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
Tips Treating & Avoiding Digestive Trouble
It’s called “travelers’ diarrhea” or turista, the Spanish word for “tourist”: persistent diarrhea, often accompanied by fever, nausea, and vomiting, that used to attack many travelers to Mexico. (Some in the U.S. call this “Mon- tezuma’s revenge,” but you won’t hear it called that in Mexico.) Wide- spread improvements in infrastructure, sanitation, and education have practically eliminated this ailment, especially in well-developed resort areas. Most travelers make a habit of drinking only bottled water, which helps them avoid unfamiliar bacteria. In resort areas, and generally throughout Mexico, only purified ice is used. If you do come down with this ailment, nothing beats Pepto Bismol, readily available in Mexico. Imodium is also available in Mexico and is used by many travelers for a quick fix. A good high-potency (or “therapeutic”) vitamin supplement and even extra vitamin C can help; yogurt is good for healthy digestion. Since dehydration can quickly become life-threatening, the Public Health Service advises that you be careful to replace fluids and electrolytes (potas- sium, sodium, and the like) during a bout of diarrhea. Drink Pedialyte, a rehydration solution available at most Mexican pharmacies, or natural fruit juice, such as guava or apple (stay away from orange juice, which has laxa- tive properties), with a pinch of salt added. How to Prevent It: The U.S. Public Health Service recommends the follow- ing measures for preventing travelers’ diarrhea: Drink only purified water (boiled water, canned or bottled beverages, beer, or wine). Choose food carefully. In general, avoid salads (except in first-class restaurants), uncooked vegetables, undercooked protein, and unpasteurized milk or milk products, including cheese. Choose food that is freshly cooked and still hot. In addition, something as simple as clean hands can go a long way toward preventing turista.
courtesy, you’ll have greater success in to be lost and frightened and takes your negotiations of any kind. Stand your hand for safety. Meanwhile the child or ground, but do it politely. an accomplice plunders your pockets. A As you travel in Mexico, you may third involves confusing currency. A encounter several types of scams, which shoeshine boy, street musician, guide, or are typical throughout the world. One other individual might offer you a service involves some kind of a distraction or for a price that seems reasonable—in feigned commotion. While your atten- pesos. When it comes time to pay, he or tion is diverted, a pickpocket makes a she tells you the price is in dollars, not grab for your wallet. In another common pesos. Be very clear on the price and cur- scam, an unaccompanied child pretends rency when services are involved. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 33
SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 33
8 Specialized Travel Resources FAMILY TRAVEL Familyhostel (& 800/733-9753; www. Children are considered the national learn.unh.edu/familyhostel) takes the treasure of Mexico, and Mexicans will whole family, including kids ages 8 to 15, warmly welcome and cater to your chil- on moderately priced domestic and inter- dren. Many parents were reluctant to national learning vacations. Lectures, fields bring young children into Mexico in the trips, and sightseeing are guided by a team past, primarily due to health concerns, of academics. but I can’t think of a better place to intro- Recommended family travel Internet duce children to the exciting adventure of sites include Family Travel Forum (www. exploring a different culture. Cancún is familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive one of the best destinations. Hotels can site that offers customized trip planning; often arrange for a babysitter. Family Travel Network (www.familytravel Before leaving, ask your doctor which network.com), an award-winning site medications to take along. Disposable that offers travel features, deals, and tips; diapers cost about the same in Mexico Traveling Internationally with Your but are of poorer quality. You can get Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a Huggies Supreme and Pampers identical comprehensive site offering sound advice to the ones sold in the United States, but for long-distance and international travel at a higher price. Many stores sell Ger- with children; and Family Travel Files ber’s baby foods. Dry cereals, powdered (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which formulas, baby bottles, and purified water offers an online magazine and a directory are easily available in midsize and large of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour oper- cities or resorts. ators for families. Cribs may present a problem; only the largest and most luxurious hotels provide TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES them. However, rollaway beds are often Mexico may seem like one giant obstacle available. Child seats or high chairs at course to travelers in wheelchairs or on restaurants are common. crutches. At airports, you may encounter Consider bringing your own car seat; steep stairs before finding a well-hidden they are not readily available for rent in elevator or escalator—if one exists. Air- Mexico. lines will often arrange wheelchair assis- Every country’s regulations differ, but tance to the baggage area. Porters are in general children traveling abroad generally available to help with luggage at should have plenty of documentation on airports and large bus stations, once hand, particularly if they’re traveling with you’ve cleared baggage claim. someone other than their own parents (in Mexican airports are upgrading their which case a notarized form letter from a services, but it is not uncommon to board parent is often required). For details on from a remote position, meaning you entry requirements for children traveling either descend stairs to a bus that ferries abroad, go to the U.S. State Department you to the plane, which you board by website (http://travel.state.gov). climbing stairs, or you walk across the Throughout this book, the “Kids” icon tarmac to your plane and ascend the distinguishes attractions, hotels, restau- stairs. Deplaning presents the same prob- rants, and other destinations that are par- lem in reverse. ticularly attractive and accommodating Escalators (and there aren’t many in to children and families. the country) are often out of order. Stairs 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 34
34 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN without handrails abound. Few restrooms SENIOR TRAVEL are equipped for travelers with disabili- Mexico is a popular country for retirees. ties; when one is available, access to it For decades, North Americans have been may be through a narrow passage that living indefinitely in Mexico by returning won’t accommodate a wheelchair or a to the border and recrossing with a new person on crutches. Many deluxe hotels tourist permit every 6 months. Mexican (the most expensive) now have rooms immigration officials have caught on, and with bathrooms for people with disabili- now limit the maximum time in the ties. Those traveling on a budget should country to 6 months within any year. stick with one-story hotels or hotels with This is to encourage even partial residents elevators. Even so, there will probably still to acquire proper documentation. be obstacles somewhere. Generally speak- Some of the most popular places for ing, no matter where you are, someone long-term stays are Guadalajara, Lake Cha- will lend a hand, although you may have pala, Ajijic, and Puerto Vallarta, all in the to ask for it. state of Jalisco; San Miguel de Allende and Many travel agencies offer customized Guanajuato in Guanajuato state; Cuer- tours and itineraries for travelers with dis- navaca in Morelos; and Alamos in Sinaloa. abilities. Flying Wheels Travel (& 507/ AIM, Apdo. Postal 31–70, 45050 451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) Guadalajara, Jal., is a well-written, offers escorted tours and cruises that informative newsletter for prospective emphasize sports and private tours in mini- retirees. Issues have evaluated retirement vans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source in Aguascalientes, Puebla, San Cristóbal (& 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) de las Casas, Puerto Angel, Puerto Escon- offers extensive access information and dido and Huatulco, Oaxaca, Taxco, advice for traveling around the world with Tepic, Manzanillo, Melaque, and Barra disabilities. Accessible Journeys (& 800/ de Navidad. Subscriptions are $18 to the 846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www. United States and $21 to Canada. Back disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to issues are three for $5. slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and Sanborn Tours, 2015 S. 10th St., Post their families and friends. Office Drawer 519, McAllen, TX 78505- Organizations that offer assistance to 0519 (& 800/395-8482), offers a “Retire disabled travelers include MossRehab in Mexico” orientation tour. (www.mossresourcenet.org), which pro- Mention the fact that you’re a senior vides a library of accessible-travel resources citizen when you make your travel reser- online; SATH (Society for Accessible vations. Although all of the major U.S. Travel & Hospitality; & 212/447-7284; airlines except America West have can- www.sath.org; annual membership fees: celed their senior discount and coupon $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), book programs, many hotels still offer which offers a wealth of travel resources discounts for seniors. for all types of disabilities and informed Members of AARP (formerly known as recommendations on destinations, access the American Association of Retired Per- guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehi- sons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC cle rentals, and companion services; and 20049 (& 888/687-2277; www.aarp. the American Foundation for the Blind org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and (AFB; & 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), a car rentals. AARP offers members a wide referral resource for the blind or visually range of benefits, including AARP: The impaired that includes information on Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Any- traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. one over 50 can join. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 35
SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 35 Many reliable agencies and organiza- she can offer airport pickups and in-villa tions target the 50-plus market. Elderhos- cooks. tel (& 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel. The International Gay and Lesbian org) arranges study programs for those Travel Association (IGLTA; & 800/ aged 55 and over (and a spouse or com- 448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta. panion of any age) in the U.S. and in more org) is the trade association for the gay than 80 countries around the world. Most and lesbian travel industry, and offers an courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2–4 online directory of gay- and lesbian- weeks abroad), and many include airfare, friendly travel businesses; go to their web- accommodations in university dormitories site and click on “Members.” or modest inns, meals, and tuition. Many agencies offer tours and travel ElderTreks (& 800/741-7956; www. itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours travelers. Now, Voyager (& 800/255- to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel 6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well- locations, restricted to travelers 50 and known San Francisco–based gay-owned older. Recommended publications offer- and operated travel service. Olivia ing travel resources and discounts for Cruises & Resorts (& 800/631-6277; seniors include: the quarterly magazine www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50and and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations beyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncom- and offers smaller group experiences for mon Adventures for the Mature Traveler both gay and lesbian travelers. (Avalon); and Unbelievably Good The following travel guides are avail- Deals and Great Adventures That You able at most travel bookstores and gay and Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over lesbian bookstores, or you can order them 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner from Giovanni’s Room bookstore, 1145 Heilman. Pine St., Philadelphia, PA 19107 (& 215/ 923-2960; www.giovannisroom.com): GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS Out and About (& 800/929-2268; Mexico is a conservative country, with www.outandabout.com), which offers deeply rooted Catholic religious tradi- guidebooks and a newsletter ($20 per tions. Public displays of same-sex affec- year; 10 issues) packed with solid infor- tion are rare and still considered shocking mation on the global gay and lesbian for men, especially outside of urban or scene; Spartacus International Gay resort areas. Women in Mexico fre- Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www. quently walk hand in hand, but anything spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and more would cross the boundary of Odysseus: The International Gay Travel acceptability. However, gay and lesbian Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.), travelers are generally treated with respect both good, annual English-language and should not experience any harass- guidebooks focused on gay men; the ment, assuming they give the appropriate Damron guides (www.damron.com), regard to local culture and customs. with separate, annual books for gay men Puerto Vallarta is perhaps the most and lesbians; and Gay Travel A to Z: The welcoming and accepting destination in World of Gay & Lesbian Travel Options Mexico. Susan Weisman’s travel service & at Your Fingertips by Marianne Ferrari Bayside Properties ( 322/223-4424; (Ferrari International; Box 35575, Phoenix, www.baysidepuertovallarta.com) rents AZ 85069), a very good gay and lesbian gay-friendly condos, villas, and hotels for guidebook series. individuals and large groups. Her services are customized to individual needs, and 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 36
36 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
Tips Advice for Female Travelers As a female traveling alone, I can tell you firsthand that I feel safer traveling in Mexico than in the United States. But I use the same common-sense precautions I use anywhere else in the world and am alert to what’s going on around me. Mexicans in general, and men in particular, are nosy about single travelers, especially women. If a taxi driver or anyone else with whom you don’t want to become friendly asks about your marital status, family, and so forth, my advice is to make up a set of answers (regardless of the truth): “I’m married, traveling with friends, and I have three children.” Saying you are single and traveling alone may send the wrong message. U.S. television—widely viewed now in Mexico—has given many Mexican men the image of American single women as being sexually promiscuous. Check out the award-winning website Journey- woman (www.journeywoman.com), a “real life” women’s travel information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety; or the travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers’ Tales, Inc.), offering common-sense tips on safe travel.
STUDENT TRAVEL If you’re a student planning to travel Because Mexicans consider higher educa- outside the U.S., you’d be wise to arm tion more a luxury than a birthright, there yourself with an International Student is no formal network of student discounts Identity Card (ISIC), which offers sub- and programs. Most Mexican students stantial savings on rail passes, plane tick- travel with their families rather than with ets, and entrance fees. It also provides you other students, so student discount cards with basic health and life insurance and a are not commonly recognized. 24-hour help line. The card is available for However, more hostels have entered the $22 from STA Travel (& 800/781-4040 student travel scene. The Mexican Youth in North America; www.sta.com or www. Hostel Network, or Red Mexicana de statravel.com), the biggest student travel Albergues Juveniles (www.remaj.com), agency in the world. If you’re no longer a offers a list of hostels that meet interna- student but are still under 26, you can get tional standards in Mexico City, Cuer- a International Youth Travel Card navaca and surrounding areas, Oaxaca, (IYTC) for the same price from the same and Veracruz. The Mexican Youth Hostel people, which entitles you to some dis- Association, or Asociación Mexicana de counts (but not on museum admissions). Albergues Juveniles (www.hostels.com. Travel CUTS (& 800/667-2887 or 416/ /en/mx.html), offers a list of hostels in 614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers Mexico City, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, similar services for both Canadians and Puerto Escondido, Uxmal, Palenque, U.S. residents. Tulum, Cancún, and Playa del Carmen.
9 Planning Your Trip Online SURFING FOR AIRFARES Orbitz.com—sell most of the air tickets The “big three” online travel agencies— bought on the Internet. (Canadian travelers Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, and should try expedia.ca and Travelocity.ca; 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 37
PLANNING YOUR TRIP ONLINE 37 U.K. residents can go for expedia.co.uk If you’re willing to give up some control and opodo.co.uk.) Each has different busi- over your flight details, use what is called ness deals with the airlines and may offer an “opaque” fare service like Priceline different fares on the same flights, so it’s (www.priceline.com; www.priceline.co.uk wise to shop around. for Europeans) or its smaller competitor Expedia and Travelocity will also send Hotwire (www.hotwire.com). Both offer you e-mail notification when a cheap rock-bottom prices in exchange for travel fare becomes available to your favorite on a “mystery airline” at a mysterious time destination. Of the smaller travel agency of day, often with a mysterious change of websites, SideStep (www.sidestep.com) planes en route. The mystery airlines are has gotten the best reviews from From- all major, well-known carriers—and the mer’s authors. It’s a browser add-on that possibility of being sent from Philadelphia purports to “search 140 sites at once,” but to Chicago via Tampa is remote; the air- in reality only beats competitors’ fares as lines’ routing computers have gotten a lot often as other sites do. better than they used to be. But your Also remember to check airline web- chances of getting a 6am or 11pm flight sites, especially those for low-fare carriers are pretty high. Hotwire tells you flight such as Southwest, STS, or whose fares prices before you buy; Priceline usually are often misreported or simply missing has better deals than Hotwire, but you from travel agency websites. Even with have to play their “name our price” game. major airlines, you can often shave a few If you’re new at this, the helpful folks at bucks from a fare by booking directly BiddingForTravel (www.biddingfortravel. through the airline and avoiding a travel com) do a good job of demystifying Price- agency’s transaction fee. But you’ll get line’s prices and strategies. Priceline and these discounts only by booking online: Hotwire are great for flights within North Most airlines now offer online-only fares America and between the U.S. and that even their phone agents know noth- Europe. But for flights to other parts of ing about. For the websites of airlines that the world, consolidators will almost fly to and from your destination, go to always beat their fares. Note: In 2004 “Getting There,” below. Priceline added nonopaque service to its Great last-minute deals are available roster. You now have the option to pick through free weekly e-mail services pro- exact flights, times, and airlines from a list vided directly by the airlines. Most of these of offers—or opt to bid on opaque fares as are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday before. and must be purchased online. Most are For much more about airfares and only valid for travel that weekend, but savvy air-travel tips and advice, pick up a some (such as Southwest’s) can be booked copy of Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart weeks or months in advance. Sign up for (Wiley Publishing, Inc.). weekly e-mail alerts at airline websites or check megasites that compile comprehen- SURFING FOR HOTELS sive lists of last-minute specials, such as Shopping online for hotels is generally SmarterTravel.com. For last-minute trips, done one of two ways: by booking site59.com and lastminutetravel.com in through the hotel’s own website or the U.S. and lastminute.com in Europe through an independent booking agency often have better air-and-hotel package (or a fare-service agency like Priceline; see deals than the major-label sites. A website below). These Internet hotel agencies have listing numerous bargain sites and airlines multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of around the world is www.itravelnet.com. late. This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 38
38 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
Tips Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource
For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend Frommers. com (www.frommers.com), voted Best Travel Site by PC Magazine. We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, bookstore, and online-booking capa- bilities thoroughly indispensable. Among the special features are our popu- lar Destinations section, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for more than 3,500 des- tinations around the globe; the Frommers.com Newsletter, with the latest deals, travel trends, and money-saving secrets; our Community area featur- ing Message Boards, where Frommer’s readers post queries and share advice (sometimes even our authors show up to answer questions); and our Photo Center, where you can post and share vacation tips. When your research is done, the Online Reservations System (www.frommers.com/book_a_trip) takes you to Frommer’s preferred online partners for booking your vacation at affordable prices.
time to shop and compare the online sites reservations systems—unlike independ- for good deals—but shop they must, for ent online agencies, which have to fax or prices can vary considerably from site to e-mail reservation requests to the hotel, a site. And keep in mind that hotels at the good portion of which get misplaced in top of a site’s listing may be there for no the shuffle. More than once, travelers other reason than that they paid money to have arrived at the hotel, only to be told get the placement. that they have no reservation. To be fair, Of the “big three” sites, Expedia offers a many of the major sites are undergoing long list of special deals and “virtual tours” improvements in service and ease of use, or photos of available rooms so you can see and Expedia will soon be able to plug what you’re paying for (a feature that helps directly into the reservations systems of counter the claims that the best rooms are many hotel chains—none of which can often held back from bargain booking be bad news for consumers. In the mean- websites). Travelocity posts unvarnished time, it’s a good idea to get a confirma- customer reviews and ranks its properties tion number and make a printout of according to the AAA rating system. Also any online booking transaction. reliable are Hotels.com and Quikbook. com. An excellent free program, TravelAxe SURFING FOR RENTAL CARS (www.travelaxe.net), can help you search For booking rental cars online, the best multiple hotel sites at once, even ones you deals are usually at rental-car company may never have heard of—and conve- websites, although all the major online niently lists the total price of the room, travel agencies also offer rental-car reser- including the taxes and service charges. vations services. Priceline and Hotwire Another booking site, Travelweb (www. work well for rental cars, too; the only travelweb.com), is partly owned by the “mystery” is which major rental company hotels it represents (including the Hilton, you get, and for most travelers the differ- Hyatt, and Starwood chains) and is ence between Hertz, Avis, and Budget is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ negligible. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 39
THE 21ST-CENTURY TRAVELER 39
10 The 21st-Century Traveler INTERNET ACCESS AWAY commercial companies that have made FROM HOME wireless service available in airports, hotel Travelers have any number of ways to lobbies, and coffee shops, primarily in the check their e-mail and tap into the Inter- U.S. (followed by the U.K. and Japan). net on the road. Of course, using your T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile.com/ own laptop—or even a PDA or electronic hotspot) serves up wireless connections at organizer with a modem—gives you the more than 1,000 Starbucks coffee shops most flexibility, though dialing long- nationwide. Boingo (www.boingo.com) distance to the United States or Canada and Wayport (www.wayport.com) have from Mexico can be costly. A better option set up networks in airports and high-class is to gain access to your e-mail and even hotel lobbies. IPass providers (see below) your office computer from cybercafes. also give you access to a few hundred wire- less hotel lobby setups. WITHOUT YOUR OWN There are also places that provide free COMPUTER wireless networks in cities around the It’s hard nowadays to find a city or town world. To locate these free hotspots, go in Mexico that doesn’t have a few cyber- to www.personaltelco.net/index.cgi/ cafes. The “Fast Facts” sections in this WirelessCommunities. book list cybercafes in major destinations. If Wi-Fi is not available at your destina- Although there’s no definitive directory tion, most business-class hotels through- of cybercafes—these are independent out the world offer dataports for laptop businesses, after all—three places to start modems, and many hotels are now offer- looking are www.cybercaptive.com, ing free high-speed Internet access. In www.netcafeguide.com, and www.cyber addition, major Internet service providers cafe.com. (ISPs) have local access numbers around Hotels that cater to business travelers the world, allowing you to go online by often have in-room dataports and busi- simply placing a local call. Check your ness centers, but the charges can be ISP’s website or call its toll-free number hefty—and downright frightful if you’re and ask how you can use your current trying to connect to a U.S.-based access account away from home, and how much number. it will cost. Most major airports now have Internet If you’re traveling outside the reach of kiosks scattered throughout their gates. your ISP, the iPass network has dial-up These kiosks, which you’ll also see in numbers in most of the world’s countries. shopping malls, hotel lobbies, and tourist You’ll have to sign up with an iPass information offices around the world, give provider, who will then tell you how to you basic Web access for a per-minute fee set up your computer for your destina- that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. tion(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price www.ipass.com and click on “Individual mean they should be avoided whenever Purchase.” One solid provider is i2roam possible. Several airports in Mexico now (& 866/811-6209 or 920/235-0475; also offer wireless hotspots. www.i2roam.com). WITH YOUR OWN COMPUTER USING A CELLPHONE You can sign up for wireless access (Wi-Fi) The three letters that define much of the service much as you do cellphone service, world’s wireless capabilities are GSM through a plan offered by one of several 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 40
40 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seam- kiosks at airports and at car-rental agen- less network that makes for easy cross- cies, we suggest renting the phone before border cellphone use throughout Europe you leave home. That way you can give and dozens of other countries worldwide, loved ones and business associates your including Mexico. In the U.S., T-Mobile, new number, make sure the phone works, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this and take the phone wherever you go— quasi-universal system; in Canada, Micro- especially helpful for overseas trips cell and some Rogers customers are GSM, through several countries, where local and all Europeans and most Australians phone-rental agencies often bill in local use GSM. currency and may not let you take the If your cellphone is on a GSM system, phone to another country. and you have a world-capable multiband Phone rental isn’t cheap. You’ll usually phone such as many Sony Ericsson, pay $40 to $50 per week, plus airtime Motorola, or Samsung models, you can fees of at least a dollar a minute. The bot- make and receive calls across civilized tom line: Shop around. areas on much of the globe, from Andorra Two good wireless rental companies to Uganda. Just call your wireless operator are InTouch USA (& 800/872-7626; and ask for “international roaming” to be www.intouchglobal.com) and RoadPost activated on your account. Unfortunately, (& 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; per-minute charges can be very high. www.roadpost.com). Give them your itin- That’s why it’s important to buy an erary, and they’ll tell you what wireless “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. products you need. InTouch will also, for Many cellphone operators sell “locked” free, advise you on whether your existing phones that restrict you from using any phone will work overseas; simply call other removable computer memory phone & 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm chip (called a SIM card) card other than EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/ the ones they supply. Having an unlocked travel.htm. phone allows you to install a cheap, pre- For trips of more than a few weeks paid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in spent in one country, buying a phone your destination country. (Show your becomes economically attractive, as many phone to the salesperson; not all phones nations have cheap, no-questions-asked work on all networks.) You’ll get a local prepaid phone systems. In Mexico, both phone number—and much, much lower of the two major cell service providers, calling rates. Getting an already locked TelCel and USACell sell inexpensive phone unlocked can be a complicated phones that use prepaid cards. process, but it can be done; just call your Once you arrive at your destination, cellular operator and say you’ll be going stop by a local cellphone shop and get the abroad for several months and want to use cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less the phone with a local provider. than $100 for a phone and a starter call- For many, renting a phone is a good ing card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ idea. While you can rent a phone from per minute, and in many countries any number of overseas sites, including incoming calls are free.
11 Getting There BY PLANE previously not served. In addition to reg- The airline situation in Mexico is rapidly ularly scheduled service, charter service improving, with many new regional carri- direct from U.S. cities to resorts is making ers offering scheduled service to areas Mexico more accessible. For information 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 41
GETTING THERE 41 about saving money on airfares using the passport. Keep your ID at the ready to Internet, see “Planning Your Trip Online,” show at check-in, the security checkpoint, above. and sometimes even the gate. (Children THE MAJOR INTERNATIONAL AIR- under 18 do not need government-issued LINES The main airlines operating photo IDs for domestic flights, but direct or nonstop flights from the United they do for international flights to most States to Mexico include Aero California countries.) (& 800/237-6225), Aeromexico (& 800/ In 2003, the TSA phased out gate 237-6639; www.aeromexico.com), Air check-in at all U.S. airports. And e-tickets France (& 800/237-2747; www.airfrance. have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. com), Alaska Airlines (& 800/426- Passengers with e-tickets can beat the 0333; www.alaskaair.com), America West ticket-counter lines by using airport elec- (& 800/235-9292; www.americawest. tronic kiosks or even online check-in com), American Airlines (& 800/433- from your home computer. Online check- 7300; www.aa.com), Continental in involves logging on to your airlines’ (& 800/525-0280; www.continental. website, accessing your reservation, and com), Frontier Airlines (& 800/432- printing out your boarding pass. If you’re 1359; www.frontierairlines.com), Mexi- using a kiosk at the airport, bring the cana (& 800/531-7921; www.mexicana. credit card you used to book the ticket or com), Northwest/KLM (& 800/225- your frequent-flier card. Print out your 2525; www.nwa.com), Taca (& 800/225- boarding pass from the kiosk and simply 2272; www.taca.com), United (& 800/ proceed to the security checkpoint with 241-6522; www.united.com), and US your pass and a photo ID. If you’re check- Airways (& 800/428-4322; www.us ing bags or looking to snag an exit-row airways.com). Southwest Airlines seat, you will be able to do so using most (& 800/435-9792; www.iflyswa.com) airline kiosks. Always call your airline to serves the U.S. border. make sure these alternatives are available. The main departure points in North Note that at press time, these check-in America for international airlines are services were not available at Mexico’s air- Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, ports, so plan on checking in the old fash- Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, ioned way—by standing in line. Curbside Miami, New York, Orlando, Philadelphia, check-in is also a good way to avoid lines, Phoenix, Raleigh/Durham, San Antonio, although a few airlines still ban curbside San Francisco, Seattle, Toronto, and check-in; call before you go. Washington, D.C. Security checkpoint lines are getting shorter than they were during 2001 and GETTING THROUGH 2002, but some doozies remain. If you THE AIRPORT have trouble standing for long periods of With the federalization of security, proce- time, tell an airline employee; the airline dures at U.S. airports are more stable and will provide a wheelchair. Speed up secu- consistent than ever. Generally, you’ll be rity by not wearing metal objects such fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour as big belt buckles. If you’ve got metallic before a domestic flight and 2 hours before body parts, a note from your doctor can an international flight; if you show up late, prevent a long chat with the security tell an airline employee and she’ll probably screeners. Keep in mind that only tick- whisk you to the front of the line. eted passengers are allowed past security, Bring a current, government-issued except for folks escorting disabled passen- photo ID such as a driver’s license or gers or children. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 42
42 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN Federalization has stabilized what you • Passengers who can book their tickets can carry on and what you can’t. The far in advance, who can stay over general rule is that sharp things are out, Saturday night, or who fly midweek nail clippers are okay, and food and bever- or at less-trafficked hours may pay a ages must be passed through the X-ray fraction of the full fare. If your sched- machine—but that security screeners ule is flexible, ask if you can secure a can’t make you drink from your coffee cheaper fare by changing your flight cup. Bring food in your carry-on rather plans. than checking it, as explosive-detection • You can also save on airfares by keep- machines used on checked luggage have ing an eye out in local newspapers for been known to mistake food (especially promotional specials or fare wars, chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. when airlines lower prices on their Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry- most popular routes. on bag, plus a “personal item” such as a • Search the Internet for cheap fares purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on (see “Planning Your Trip Online,” hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a earlier in this chapter). laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, • Consolidators, also known as bucket it’s still considered a personal item. The shops, are great sources for interna- Transportation Security Administration tional tickets, although they usually (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items; can’t beat the Internet on fares within check its website (www.tsa.gov/public/ North America. Start by looking in index.jsp) for details. Sunday newspaper travel sections; U.S. Airport screeners may decide that your travelers should focus on the New York checked luggage needs to be searched by Times, the Los Angeles Times, and the hand. You can now purchase luggage locks Miami Herald. For less-developed des- that allow screeners to open and re-lock a tinations, small travel agents who cater checked bag if hand-searching is neces- to immigrant communities in large sary. Look for Travel Sentry certified locks cities often have the best deals. at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usu- stores (you can buy them online at www. ally nonrefundable or rigged with stiff brookstone.com). These locks, approved cancellation penalties, often as high as by the TSA, can be opened by luggage 50% to 75% of the ticket price, and inspectors with a special code or key. For some put you on charter airlines that more information on the locks, visit may leave at inconvenient times and www.travelsentry.org. If you use some- experience delays. Several reliable con- thing other than TSA-approved locks, solidators are worldwide and available your lock will be cut off your suitcase if on the Net. STA Travel is now the a TSA agent needs to hand-search your world’s leader in student travel, thanks luggage. to their purchase of Council Travel. It also offers good fares for travelers FLYING FOR LESS: TIPS FOR of all ages. FlyCheap (& 800/FLY- GETTING THE BEST AIRFARE CHEAP; www.1800flycheap.com) is Passengers sharing the same airplane cabin owned by package-holiday megalith rarely pay the same fare. Travelers who MyTravel and so has especially good need to purchase tickets at the last minute, access to fares for sunny destinations. change their itinerary at a moment’s Air Tickets Direct (& 800/778- notice, or fly one-way often get stuck pay- 3447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is ing the premium rate. Here are some ways based in Montreal and leverages the to keep your airfare costs down. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 43
GETTING THERE 43 currently weak Canadian dollar for most accurate information. To check on low fares; it’ll also book trips to places road conditions or to get help with any that U.S. travel agents won’t touch, travel emergency while in Mexico, call such as Cuba. & 01-800/903-9200, or 555/250-0151 • For many more tips about air travel, in Mexico City. English-speaking opera- including a rundown of the major tors staff both numbers. frequent-flier credit cards, pick up a In addition, check with the U.S. State copy of Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart Department (see “Visitor Information,” (Wiley Publishing, Inc.). earlier in this chapter) for warnings about dangerous driving areas. BY CAR Driving is not the cheapest way to get to CAR DOCUMENTS Mexico, but it is the best way to see the To drive your car into Mexico, you’ll need country. Even so, you may think twice a temporary car-importation permit, about taking your own car south of the which is granted after you provide a border once you’ve pondered the bureau- required list of documents (see below). cracy involved. One option is to rent a car The permit can be obtained through once you arrive and tour around a specific Banco del Ejército (Banjercito) officials, region. Rental cars in Mexico are gener- who have a desk, booth, or office at the ally new, clean, and well maintained. Mexican Customs (aduana) building after Although they’re pricier than in the you cross the border into Mexico. United States, discounts are often avail- The following strict requirements for able for rentals of a week or longer, espe- border crossing were accurate at press cially when you make arrangements in time: advance from the United States. (See • A valid driver’s license, issued out- “Car Rentals,” later in this chapter, for side of Mexico. more details.) • Current, original car registration If, after reading the section that fol- and a copy of the original car title. lows, you have additional questions or If the registration or title is in more you want to confirm the current rules, than one name and not all the named call your nearest Mexican consulate or the people are traveling with you, a nota- Mexican Government Tourist Office. rized letter from the absent person(s) Although travel insurance companies are authorizing use of the vehicle for the generally helpful, they may not have the trip is required; have it ready. The
Tips Carrying Car Documents You must carry your temporary car-importation permit, tourist permit (see “Entry Requirements,” earlier in this chapter), and, if you purchased it, your proof of Mexican car insurance (see below) in the car at all times. The temporary car- importation permit papers are valid for 6 months to a year, while the tourist per- mit is usually issued for 30 days. It’s a good idea to overestimate the time you’ll spend in Mexico, so that if you have to (or want to) stay longer, you’ll avoid the hassle of getting your papers extended. Whatever you do, don’t overstay either permit. Doing so invites heavy fines, confiscation of your vehicle (which will not be returned), or both. Also remember that 6 months does not necessarily equal 180 days—be sure that you return before the earlier expiration date. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 44
44 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN registration and your credit card (see car-importation permit must always be below) must be in the same name. in the car. (If stopped by police, a non- • A valid international major credit registered family member driving without card. With a credit card, you are the registered driver must be prepared to required to pay only a $23 car- prove familial relationship to the regis- importation fee. The credit card must tered driver—no joke.) Violation of this be in the same name as the car regis- rule subjects the car to impoundment tration. If you do not have a major and the driver to imprisonment, a fine, or credit card (American Express, Din- both. You can drive a car with foreign ers Club, MasterCard, or Visa), you license plates only if you have a foreign must post a bond or make a deposit (non-Mexican) driver’s license. equal to the value of the vehicle. MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE Check cards are not accepted. • Original immigration documenta- Liability auto insurance is legally required tion. This is either your tourist permit in Mexico. U.S. insurance is invalid; to be (FMT) or the original immigration insured in Mexico, you must purchase booklet, FM2 or FM3, if you hold Mexican insurance. Any party involved in more permanent status. an accident who has no insurance may be • A signed declaration promising to sent to jail and have his or her car return to your country of origin impounded until all claims are settled. with the vehicle. Obtain this form This is true even if you just drive across (Carta Promesa de Retorno) from AAA the border to spend the day. U.S. compa- or Sanborn’s before you go, or from nies that broker Mexican insurance are Banjercito officials at the border. commonly found at the border crossing, There’s no charge. The form does not and several quote daily rates. stipulate that you must return by the You can also buy car insurance through same border entry through which Sanborn’s Mexico Insurance, P.O. Box 52840, 2009 S. 10th, McAllen, TX you entered. & • Temporary Importation Applica- ( 956/686-3601; fax 800/222-0158 or tion. By signing this form, you state 956/686-0732; www.sanbornsinsurance. that you are only temporarily import- com). The company has offices at all U.S. ing the car for your personal use and border crossings. Its policies cost the same will not be selling it. This is to help as the competition’s do, but you get legal regulate the entry and restrict the coverage (attorney and bail bonds if resale of unauthorized cars and needed) and a detailed mile-by-mile guide trucks. Make sure the permit is can- for your proposed route. Most of the San- celed when you return to the U.S. born’s border offices are open Monday through Friday, and a few are staffed on If you receive your documentation at Saturday and Sunday. AAA auto club also the border, Mexican officials will make sells insurance. two copies of everything and charge you for the copies. For up-to-the-minute infor- RETURNING TO THE UNITED mation, a great source is the Customs STATES WITH YOUR CAR office in Nuevo Laredo, or Módulo de You must return the car documents you Importación Temporal de Automóviles, Adu- obtained when you entered Mexico when ana Nuevo Laredo (& 867/712-2071). you cross back with your car, or at some Important reminder: Someone else point within 180 days. (You can cross as may drive, but the person (or relative of many times as you wish within the 180 the person) whose name appears on the days.) If the documents aren’t returned, 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 45
PACKAGES FOR THE INDEPENDENT TRAVELER 45 heavy fines are imposed ($250 for each (which often includes stops in Cancún, 15 days late), your car may be impounded Playa del Carmen, and Cozumel). Several and confiscated, or you may be jailed if cruise-tour specialists offer substantial you return to Mexico. You can only return discounts on unsold cabins if you’re willing the car documents to a Banjercito official to take off at the last minute. One such on duty at the Mexican Customs (adua- company is The Cruise Line, 150 NW na) building before you cross back into the 168 St., North Miami Beach, FL 33169 United States. Some border cities have (& 800/777-0707 or 305/521-2200). Banjercito officials on duty 24 hours a day, but others do not; some do not have BY BUS Sunday hours. Greyhound-Trailways (or its affiliates) offers service from around the United BY SHIP States to the Mexican border, where pas- Numerous cruise lines serve Mexico. Some sengers disembark, cross the border, and (including whale-watching trips) cruise buy a ticket for travel into Mexico. Many from California to the Baja Peninsula and border crossings have scheduled buses ports of call on the Pacific coast, or from from the U.S. bus station to the Mexican Houston or Miami to the Caribbean bus station.
12 Packages for the Independent Traveler Before you start your search for the low- packagers that are better than the rest est airfare, you may want to consider because they buy in even bigger bulk. booking your flight as part of a travel Not only can that mean better prices, it package. Package tours are not the same can mean more choices. thing as escorted tours. Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accom- WHERE TO BROWSE modations, and other elements of your • One specialist in Mexico vacation trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, packages is www.mexicotravelnet. and sometimes even activities) at the com, an agency that offers most of same time and often at discounted prices. the well-known travel packages to You can buy a package at any time of Mexico beach resorts, plus offers last the year, but the best deals usually coin- minute specials. cide with high season—from mid- • Check out www.2travel.com and December to April—when demand is at find a page with links to a number its peak, and companies are more confi- of the big-name Mexico packagers, dent about filling planes. You might including several of those listed here. think that package rates would be better • For last-minute air-only or package during low season, when room rates and bargains, check out Vacation Hot airfares plunge. But the key is air access, Line (www.vacationhotline.net). Once which is much easier during the winter. you find your deal, you’ll need to call Packages vary widely, with some compa- to make booking arrangements. This nies offering a better class of hotels than service offers packages from the popu- others. Some offer the same hotels for lar Apple and Funjet vacation whole- lower prices. Some offer flights on sched- salers. uled airlines, while others book charters. • Several big online travel agencies— In some packages, your choices of accom- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, modations and travel days may be lim- and Lastminute.com—also do a brisk ited. Each destination usually has some business in packages. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 46
46 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
Tips Before You Book a Package
• Read the fine print. Make sure you know exactly what’s included in the price you’re being quoted, and what’s not. • Know what you’re getting yourself into—and if you can get yourself out of it. Before you commit, make sure you know how much flexibility you have. Often, packagers will offer trip-cancellation insurance (for around $25–$30), which will return your payment if you need to change your plans.
RECOMMENDED PACKAGERS Mexico are Dallas/Fort Worth, • Aeromexico Vacations (& 800/ Chicago, and Miami. The website 245-8585; www.aeromexico.com) offers unpublished discounts that are offers year-round packages to almost not available through the operators. every destination it serves, including • America West Vacations (& 800/ Acapulco, Cancún, Cozumel, Ixtapa/ 356-6611; www.americawest Zihuatanejo, Los Cabos, and Puerto vacations.com) has deals to Acapulco, Vallarta. Aeromexico has a large Guadalajara, Ixtapa, Mazatlán, Man- (more than 100) selection of resorts in zanillo, Mexico City, Los Cabos, and these destinations and more, in a vari- Puerto Vallarta, mostly from its ety of price ranges. The best deals are Phoenix gateway. Many packages to from Houston, Dallas, San Diego, Los Cabos include car rentals. The Los Angeles, Miami, and New York, website offers discounted featured in that order. specials that are not available through • Alaska Airlines Vacations (& 800/ the operators. You can also book 468-2248; www.alaskaair.com) sells hotels without air by calling the toll- packages to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Los free number. Cabos, Manzanillo/Costa Alegre, • Apple Vacations (& 800/365-2775; Mazatlán, and Puerto Vallarta. Alaska www.applevacations.com) offers flies direct from Los Angeles, San inclusive packages to all the beach Diego, San Jose, San Francisco, Seat- resorts, and has the largest choice tle, Vancouver, Anchorage, and Fair- of hotels in Acapulco, Cancún, banks. The website offers unpublished Cozumel, Huatulco, Ixtapa, Loreto, discounts that are not available Los Cabos, Manzanillo, Mazatlán, through the phone operators. Puerto Vallarta, and the Riviera Maya. • American Airlines Vacations (& 800/ Scheduled carriers for the air portion 321-2121; http://www.aavacations. include American, United, Mexicana, com) has year-round deals to Aca- Delta, US Airways, Reno Air, pulco, Cancún, the Riviera Maya, Alaska Airlines, Aero California, and Guadalajara, Los Cabos, Mexico City, Aeromexico. Perks include baggage and Puerto Vallarta. You don’t have to handling and the services of a com- fly with American if you can get a bet- pany representative at major hotels. ter deal on another airline; land-only • Classic Custom Vacations (& 800/ packages include hotel, hotel tax, and 635-1333; www.classiccustom airport transfers. American’s hubs to vacations.com) specializes in package 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 47
PACKAGES FOR THE INDEPENDENT TRAVELER 47 vacations to Mexico’s finest luxury Cancún, Mazatlán, Puerto Vallarta, resorts. It combines discounted first- and Los Cabos. It offers several exclu- class and economy airfare on Ameri- sive deals from higher-end hotels. can, Continental, Mexicana, Alaska, Book through any travel agent. America West, and Delta with stays • Mexicana Vacations, or MexSeaSun at the most exclusive hotels in Can- Vacations (& 800/531-9321; www. cún, the Riviera Maya, Mérida, Oax- mexicana.com), offers getaways to all aca, Guadalajara, Mexico City, Puerto the resorts. Mexicana operates daily Vallarta, Mazatlán, Costa Alegre, direct flights from Los Angeles to Los Manzanillo, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Aca- Cabos, Mazatlán, Cancún, Puerto pulco, Huatulco, and Los Cabos. In Vallarta, Manzanillo, and Ixtapa/ many cases, packages also include Zihuatanejo. meals, airport transfers, and upgrades. • Online Vacation Mall (& 800/ The prices are not for bargain hunters 839-9851; www.onlinevacationmall. but for those who seek luxury, nicely com) allows you to search for and packaged. book packages offered by a number • Continental Vacations (& 800/ of tour operators and airlines to Aca- 301-3800; www.covacations.com) pulco, Cancún, Cozumel, Guaymas, has year-round packages to Cancún, Huatulco, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, La Cozumel, Puerto Vallarta, Cabo San Paz, Los Cabos, Puerto Vallarta, the Lucas, Acapulco, Ixtapa, Mazatlán, Riviera Maya, Mazatlán, and Mexico Mexico City, and Guadalajara, The City. best deals are from Houston; Newark, • Pleasant Mexico Holidays (& 800/ N.J.; and Cleveland. You must fly 448-3333; www.pleasantholidays. Continental. The Internet deals offer com) is one of the largest vacation savings not available elsewhere. packagers in the United States, with • Delta Vacations (& 800/221-6666; hotels in Acapulco, Cancún, Cozumel, www.deltavacations.com) has year- Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Los Cabos, round packages to Acapulco, Los Mazatlán, and Puerto Vallarta. Cabos, Cozumel, and Cancún. Several big online travel agencies— Atlanta is the hub, so expect the best Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and prices from there. Lastminute.com—also do a brisk busi- • Funjet Vacations (book through any ness in packages. If you’re unsure about travel agent; www.funjet.com for the pedigree of a smaller packager, check general information) is one of the with the Better Business Bureau in the largest vacation packagers in the city where the company is based, or go United States. Funjet has packages to online at www.bbb.org. If a packager Acapulco, Cancún, Cozumel, the won’t tell you where it’s based, don’t fly Riviera Maya, Huatulco, Los Cabos, with it. Mazatlán, Ixtapa, and Puerto Vallarta. You can choose a charter or fly REGIONAL PACKAGERS on American, Continental, Delta, From the East Coast: Liberty Travel Aeromexico, US Airways, Alaska Air, (& 888/271-1584; www.libertytravel. or United. com), one of the biggest packagers in the • GOGO Worldwide Vacations Northeast, often runs a full-page ad in the (& 888/636-3942; www.gogowwv. Sunday papers, with frequent Mexico com) has trips to all the major beach specials. You won’t get much in the way destinations, including Acapulco, of service, but you will get a good deal. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 48
48 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN From the West: Suntrips (& 800/ packages regular deals to Los Cabos, SUNTRIPS, or 800/786-8747 for depar- Mazatlán, Puerto Vallarta, Ixtapa, Man- tures within 14 days; www.suntrips.com) zanillo, Cancún, Cozumel, and Acapulco is one of the largest West Coast packagers with America West from the airline’s for Mexico, with departures from San Phoenix and Las Vegas gateways. Francisco and Denver; regular charters Resort Packages: The biggest hotel to Cancún, Cozumel, Los Cabos, and chains and resorts also sell packages. To Puerto Vallarta; and a large selection of take advantage of these offers, contact hotels. your travel agent or call the hotels From the Southwest: Town and directly. Country (book through travel agents)
13 The Active Traveler Golf courses are plentiful in Mexico, con- all of which must meet certain criteria for centrated in the resort areas. Cancún and security, quality, and training of the Playa del Carmen boast excellent options. guides, as well as for sustainability of nat- Visitors can also enjoy tennis, water- ural and cultural environments. For more skiing, surfing, bicycling, and horse- information, contact AMTAVE (& 800/ back riding. Scuba diving is excellent 509-7678; www.turismoaventura.com). off the Yucatán’s Caribbean coast; The Archaeological Conservancy, Cozumel is considered one of the top five 5301 Central Ave. NE, Suite 402, Albu- dive spots in the world. querque, NM 87108 (& 505/266-1540; PARKS Most of the national parks and www.americanarchaeology.com/tour. nature reserves are understaffed or html), presents one trip to Mexico per year unstaffed. Reliable Mexican companies led by an expert, usually an archaeologist. (such as AMTAVE members; see below) The trips change from year to year and and many U.S.-based companies offer space is limited; make reservations early. adventure trips. ATC Tours and Travel, Calle 16 de Septiembre 16, 29200 San Cristóbal de OUTDOORS ORGANIZATIONS & las Casas, Chi. (& 967/678-2550 or TOUR OPERATORS AMTAVE (Aso- 967/678-2557; fax 967/678-3145; www. ciación Mexicana de Turismo de Aven- atctours.com.mx), a Mexico-based tour tura y Ecoturismo, A.C.) is an active operator with an excellent reputation, association of eco- and adventure tour offers specialist-led trips primarily in operators. It publishes an annual catalog southern Mexico. In addition to trips to of participating firms and their offerings, the ruins of Palenque and Yaxchilán
Finds Out-of-the-Ordinary Places to Stay Mexico lends itself beautifully to the concept of small, private hotels in idyllic settings. They vary in style from grandiose estate to palm-thatched bungalow. Mexico Boutique Hotels (www.MexicoBoutiqueHotels.com) specializes in smaller places to stay with a high level of personal attention and service. Most options have less than 50 rooms, and the accommodations consist of entire vil- las, casitas, bungalows, or a combination. The Yucatán is especially noted for the luxury haciendas throughout the peninsula. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 49
TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS 49
Tips Save Money on Diving Packages In Cozumel, you may save money by purchasing a diving package that includes accommodations and a fixed number of dives. Many divers, however, save even more money by choosing a hotel that’s cheaper than what the package offers, then booking dives directly with a diving concession. This method may be espe- cially practical in the fall, when stormy seas often preclude diving. In this instance, you wouldn’t end up paying for unused dives. For more on diving off Cozumel Island, see chapter 4.
(extending into Belize and Guatemala by excellent cuisine. The owner, Marilyn river, plane, and bus, if desired), ATC Tausend, is the co-author of Mexico the offers horseback tours to Chamula or Beautiful Cookbook and Cocinas de la Zinacantán, and day trips to the ruins of Familia (Family Kitchens). Most trips take Toniná around San Cristóbal de las place in central Mexico, but ask about Casas; birding in the rainforests of Chia- itineraries in the Yucatán. pas and Guatemala (including in the El Mexico Travel Link Ltd., 300-3665 Triunfo Reserve of Chiapas, where you Kingsway, Vancouver, BC V5R 5W2 can see the rare quetzal bird and orchids); Canada (& 604/454-9044; fax 604/454- hikes to the shops and homes of native 9088; www.mexicotravel.net), offers cul- textile artists of the Chiapas highlands; tural, sports, and adventure tours to the and walks from the Lagos de Montebello Maya Route, and other destinations off in the Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve, the beaten path. with camping and canoeing. The com- Trek America, P.O. Box 189, Rock- pany can also prepare custom itineraries. away, NJ 07866 (& 800/221-0596 or Culinary Adventures, 6023 Reid Dr. 973/983-1144; fax 973/983-8551; www. NW, Gig Harbor, WA 98335 (& 253/ trekamerica.com), organizes lengthy, 851-7676; fax 253/851-9532), special- active trips that combine trekking, hik- izes in a short but select list of cooking ing, van transportation, and camping in tours in Mexico. They feature well-known the Yucatán and Chiapas. cooks and travel to regions known for
14 Tips on Accommodations MEXICO’S HOTEL working order, all facilities are renovated RATING SYSTEM regularly, infrastructure is top-tier, and The hotel rating system in Mexico is services and hygiene meet the highest called “Stars and Diamonds.” Hotels may international standards. qualify to earn one to five stars, or five Five-star hotels usually offer similar diamonds. Many hotels that have excel- quality, but with lower levels of service lent standards are not certified, but all and detail in the rooms. For example, a rated hotels adhere to strict standards. five-star hotel may have less luxurious The guidelines relate to service, facilities, linens, or perhaps room service for less and hygiene more than to prices. than 24 hours. Five-diamond hotels meet the highest Four-star hotels are less expensive and requirements for rating: The beds are more basic, but they still guarantee clean- comfortable, bathrooms are in excellent liness and basic services such as hot water 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 50
50 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN and purified drinking water. Three-, two-, Hotel Rating System,” above). Its and one-star hotels are at least working to beach hotels are traditionally located adhere to certain standards: Bathrooms on the best beaches in the area. This are cleaned and linens are washed daily, chain also focuses on the business and you can expect a minimum standard market. The hotels are famous for of service. Two- and one-star hotels gen- their vivid and contrasting colors. erally provide bottled water rather than • Hoteles Krystal NH (www.krystal. purified water. com.mx). Grupo Chartwell recently The nonprofit organization Calidad acquired this family-owned chain. Mexicana Certificada, A.C., known as The hotels are noted for their family- Calmecac (www.calmecac.com.mx), is friendly facilities and five-star stan- responsible for hotel ratings. For addi- dards. The beach properties’ signature tional details about the rating system, feature is a pool, framed by columns, visit Calmecac’s website or www.starsand overlooking the sea. diamonds.com. • Plaza Las Glorias (www.sidek.com. mx/hotel/ing/glorias.asp). Sidek Situr HOTEL CHAINS group, the company responsible for In addition to the major international building the first mega-developments chains, you’ll run across a number of less- in Mexico’s resort areas, built these familiar brands as you plan your trip to hotels. The chain usually represents a Mexico. They include: more affordable option than its com- • Brisas Hotels & Resorts (www.brisas. petitors but maintains international com.mx). These were the hotels that standards. originally attracted jet-set travelers to • Quinta Real Grand Class Hotels Mexico. Spectacular in a retro way, and Resorts (www.quintareal.com). these properties offer the laid-back These hotels, owned by Summit luxury that makes a Mexican vacation Hotels and Resorts, are noted for so unique. architectural and cultural details that • Fiesta Americana and Fiesta Inn reflect their individual regions. At (www.posadas.com). Part of the these luxury properties, attention to Mexican-owned Grupo Posadas com- detail and excellent service are the rule. pany, these hotels set the country’s midrange standard for facilities and HOUSE RENTALS & SWAPS services. They generally offer com- House and villa rentals and swaps are fortable, spacious rooms and tradi- becoming more common in Mexico, but tional Mexican hospitality. Fiesta no single recognized agency or business Americana hotels offer excellent provides this service exclusively for beach-resort packages. Fiesta Inn Mexico. In the chapters that follow, we hotels are usually more business ori- have provided information on inde- ented. Grupo Posadas also owns the pendent services that we have found to more luxurious Caesar Park hotels be reputable. and the eco-oriented Explorean With regard to general online services, hotels. the most extensive inventory of homes is • Hoteles Camino Real (www.camino found at VRBO (vacation rentals by real.com). The premier Mexican hotel owner; www.vrbo.com). They have over chain, Camino Real maintains a high 33,000 homes and condominiums standard of service at its properties, all worldwide, including a large selection in of which carry five stars (see “Mexico’s Mexico. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 51
TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS 51 SAVING ON YOUR for a Modified American Plan HOTEL ROOM (MAP), which includes breakfast and The rack rate is the maximum rate that a one meal, or the American Plan hotel charges for a room. Hardly anybody (AP), which includes three meals. If pays this price, however. To lower the cost you must choose a MAP, see if you of your room: can get a free lunch at your hotel if • Ask about special rates or other you decide to do dinner out. discounts. Always ask whether a • Book an efficiency. A room with a room less expensive than the first kitchenette allows you to shop for one quoted is available, or whether groceries and cook your own meals. any special rates apply to you. You This is a big money saver, especially may qualify for corporate, student, for families on long stays. military, senior, or other discounts. LANDING THE BEST ROOM Mention membership in AAA, AARP, Somebody has to get the best room in the frequent-flier programs, or trade house. It might as well be you. You can unions, which may entitle you to start by joining the hotel’s frequent-guest special deals as well. Find out the program, which may make you eligible hotel policy on children—do kids for upgrades. Always ask about a corner stay free in the room or is there a room. They’re often larger and quieter, special rate? with more windows and light, and they • Dial direct. When booking a room often cost the same as standard rooms. in a chain hotel, you’ll often get a bet- When you make your reservation, ask if ter deal by calling the individual the hotel is renovating; if it is, request a hotel’s reservation desk than by call- room away from the construction. Ask ing the chain’s main number. about nonsmoking rooms, rooms with • Consider the pros and cons of all- views, rooms with twin, queen- or king- inclusive resorts and hotels. The size beds. If you’re a light sleeper, request a term “all-inclusive” means different quiet room away from vending machines, things at different hotels. Many all- elevators, restaurants, bars, and discos. inclusive hotels will include three Ask for a room that has been most meals daily, sports equipment, spa recently renovated or redecorated. entry, and other amenities; others If you aren’t happy with your room may include all or most drinks. In when you arrive, ask for another one. general, you’ll save money going the Most lodgings will be willing to accom- “all-inclusive” way—as long as you modate you. use the facilities provided. The In resort areas, ask the following ques- down side is that your choices are tions before you book a room: limited. • What’s the view like? Cost-conscious • Carefully consider your hotel’s meal travelers may be willing to pay less for plan. If you enjoy eating out and a back room facing the parking lot, sampling the local cuisine, it makes especially if they don’t plan to spend sense to choose a Continental Plan much time in their room. (CP), which includes breakfast only, • Does the room have air-conditioning or a European Plan (EP), which or ceiling fans? Do the windows doesn’t include any meals and allows open? If they do, and the nighttime you maximum flexibility. If you’re entertainment takes place al fresco, more interested in saving money, opt 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 52
52 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN you may want to find out when show could end up spending more than you time is over. bargained for. • What’s included in the price? If you’re • How far is the room from the beach charged for beach chairs, towels, sports and other amenities? If it’s far, is there equipment, and other amenities, you transportation and is it free?
15 Getting Around Mexico An important note: If your travel sched- practice to include this departure tax in ule depends on a vital connection—say, a your ticket price, but double-check to plane trip or a ferry or bus connection— make sure so you’re not caught by sur- call to find out if the connection is still prise at the airport. Taxes on each domes- available. tic departure within Mexico are around $13, unless you’re on a connecting flight BY PLANE and have already paid at the start of the Mexico has two large private national car- & flight. riers: Mexicana ( 01-800/366-5400 Mexico also charges an $18 “tourism toll-free in Mexico), and Aeromexico & tax,” the proceeds of which go into a ( 01-800/021-4000 toll-free in Mex- tourism promotional fund. Your ticket ico), in addition to several up-and- price may not include it, so be sure to coming regional carriers. Mexicana and have enough money to pay it at the air- Aeromexico offer extensive connections port upon departure. to the United States as well as within Mexico. RECONFIRMING FLIGHTS Al- Several new regional carriers are oper- though Mexican airlines say it’s not nec- ated by or can be booked through Mexi- essary to reconfirm a flight, it’s still a cana or Aeromexico. Regional carriers are good idea. To avoid getting bumped on Mexicana’s Aerocaribe and Aero Mar, popular, possibly overbooked flights, and Aeromexico’s Aerolitoral. For points check in for an international flight 1 inside the state of Oaxaca only—Oaxaca 1 ⁄2 hours in advance of travel. City, Puerto Escondido, and Huatulco— BY CAR contact Zapotec Tours (& 800/44- Most Mexican roads are not up to U.S. OAXACA, or 773/506-2444 in Illinois). standards. Driving at night is dangerous— The regional carriers are expensive, but the roads are rarely lit; trucks, carts, they go to difficult-to-reach places. In pedestrians, and bicycles usually have no each applicable section of this book, lights; and you can hit potholes, animals, we’ve mentioned regional carriers with all rocks, dead ends, or uncrossable bridges pertinent telephone numbers. without warning. Because major airlines can book some The spirited style of Mexican driving regional carriers, read your ticket care- sometimes requires super vision and fully to see if your connecting flight is on reflexes. Be prepared for new customs, as one of these smaller carriers—they may when a truck driver flips on his left turn use a different airport or a different signal when there’s not a crossroad for counter. miles. He’s probably telling you the road’s AIRPORT TAXES Mexico charges an clear ahead for you to pass. Another cus- airport tax on all departures. Passengers tom that’s very important to respect is leaving the country on international turning left. Never turn left by stopping flights pay $18—in dollars or the peso in the middle of a highway with your left equivalent. It has become a common signal on. Instead, pull onto the right 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 53
GETTING AROUND MEXICO 53 shoulder, wait for traffic to clear, then minor accidents, or try to make an imme- proceed across the road. diate settlement, to avoid involving the GASOLINE There’s one government- police. If the police arrive while the owned brand of gas and one gasoline sta- involved persons are still at the scene, tion name throughout the country— everyone may be locked in jail until Pemex (Petroleras Mexicanas). There are blame is assessed. In any case, you have to two types of gas in Mexico: magna, 87- settle up immediately, which may take octane unleaded gas, and premium days. Foreigners who don’t speak fluent 93 octane. In Mexico, fuel and oil are Spanish are at a distinct disadvantage sold by the liter, which is slightly more when trying to explain their version of than a quart (40 liters equals about the event. Three steps may help the for- 11 gal.). Many franchise Pemex stations eigner who doesn’t wish to do as the Mex- have bathroom facilities and convenience icans do: If you were in your own car, stores. notify your Mexican insurance company, Important note: No credit cards are whose job it is to intervene on your currently accepted for gas purchases. behalf. If you were in a rental car, notify the rental company immediately and ask TOLL ROADS Mexico charges some how to contact the nearest adjuster. (You of the highest tolls in the world for its did buy insurance with the rental, right?) network of new toll roads; as a result, Finally, if all else fails, ask for the nearest they are rarely used. Generally speaking, Green Angel, who may be able to explain though, using toll roads cuts travel time. to officials that you are covered by insur- Older toll-free roads are generally in good ance. See also “Mexican Auto Insurance” condition, but travel times tend to be in “Getting There,” earlier in this chapter. longer. CAR RENTALS You’ll get the best BREAKDOWNS If your car breaks price if you reserve a car at least a week in down on the road, help might already be advance from home. U.S. car-rental firms on the way. Radio-equipped green repair include Advantage (& 800/777-5500 in trucks operated by uniformed English- the U.S. and Canada), Avis (& 800/331- speaking officers patrol major highways 1212 in the U.S., or 800/TRY-AVIS in during daylight hours. These “Green Canada), Budget (& 800/527-0700 in Angels” perform minor repairs and adjust- the U.S. and Canada), Hertz (& 800/ ments free, but you pay for parts and 654-3131 in the U.S. and Canada), materials. National (& 800/CAR-RENT in the Your best guide to repair shops is the U.S. and Canada), and Thrifty (& 800/ Yellow Pages. For repairs, look under 367-2277 in the U.S. and Canada; www. “Automóviles y Camiones: Talleres de thrifty.com), which often offers discounts Reparación y Servicio”; auto-parts stores for rentals in Mexico. For European trav- are under “Refacciones y Accesorios para elers, Kemwel Holiday Auto (& 800/ Automóviles.” To find a mechanic on the 678-0678) and Auto Europe (& 800/ road, look for a sign that says TALLER 223-5555) can arrange Mexican rentals, MECANICO. sometimes through other agencies. These Places called vulcanizadora or llantera and some local firms have offices in Mex- repair flat tires, and it is common to find ico City and most other large Mexican them open 24 hours a day on the most cities. You’ll find rental desks at airports, traveled highways. all major hotels, and many travel agencies. MINOR ACCIDENTS When possi- Cars are easy to rent if you are 25 or ble, many Mexicans drive away from over and have a major credit card, valid 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 54
54 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN driver’s license, and passport with you. insurance covers you and anyone in your Without a credit card you must leave a car. Read the fine print on the back of cash deposit, usually a big one. One-way your rental agreement and note that rentals are usually simple to arrange but insurance may be invalid if you have an more costly. accident while driving on an unpaved Car-rental costs are high in Mexico road. because cars are more expensive. The con- Damage Always inspect your car care- dition of rental cars has improved greatly fully and note every damaged or missing over the years, and clean new cars are the item, no matter how minute, on your norm. The basic cost of the 1-day rental rental agreement, or you may be charged. of a Volkswagen Beetle at press time, with unlimited mileage (but before 15% tax BY TAXI and $15 daily insurance), was $48 in Taxis are the preferred way to get around Cancún, $52 in Mexico City, $44 in almost all of Mexico’s resort areas, and Puerto Vallarta, $48 in Oaxaca, and $38 around Mexico City. Fares for short trips in Mérida. Renting by the week gives you within towns are generally preset by zone, a lower daily rate. Avis was offering a and are quite reasonable compared with basic 7-day rate for a VW Beetle (before U.S. rates. For longer trips or excursions tax or insurance) of $220 in Cancún and to nearby cities, taxis can generally be Puerto Vallarta, $180 in Mérida, and hired for around $10 to $15 per hour, or $250 in Mexico City. Prices may be con- for a negotiated daily rate. A negotiated siderably higher if you rent around a one-way price is usually much less than major holiday. Also double-check charges the cost of a rental car for a day, and a taxi for insurance—some companies will travels much faster than a bus. For any- increase the insurance rate after several one who is uncomfortable driving in days. Always ask for detailed information Mexico, this is a convenient, comfortable about all charges you will be responsible alternative. A bonus is that you have a for. Spanish-speaking person with you in case Car-rental companies usually write you run into trouble. Many taxi drivers credit card charges in U.S. dollars. speak at least some English. Your hotel Deductibles Be careful—these vary can assist you with the arrangements. greatly; some are as high as $2,500, which BY BUS comes out of your pocket immediately in Except for the Baja peninsula, where bus case of damage. On a VW Beetle, Hertz’s service is not well developed, Mexican deductible is $1,000 and Avis’s is $500. buses run frequently, are readily accessi- Insurance Insurance is offered in two ble, and can get you almost anywhere you parts: Collision and damage insurance want to go. They’re often the only way to covers your car and others if the accident get from large cities to other nearby cities is your fault, and personal accident and small villages. Don’t hesitate to ask
Bus Hijackings The U.S. State Department notes that bandits target long-distance buses trav- eling at night, but there have been daylight robberies as well. Buses are more common targets than individual cars—they offer thieves more bucks for the bang. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 55
RECOMMENDED BOOKS 55 questions if you’re confused about any- few stops. Many run express from point thing, but note that little English is spo- to point. They are well worth the few dol- ken in bus stations. lars more. In rural areas, buses are often Dozens of Mexican companies operate of the school-bus variety, with lots of large, air-conditioned, Greyhound-type local color. buses between most cities. Classes are sec- Whenever possible, it’s best to buy ond (segunda), first (primera), and deluxe your reserved-seat ticket, often using a (ejecutiva), which goes by a variety of computerized system, a day in advance names. Deluxe buses often have fewer on long-distance routes and especially seats than regular buses, show video before holidays. See appendix B for a list movies, are air-conditioned, and make of helpful bus terms in Spanish.
16 Recommended Books HISTORY & CULTURE For an over- by George Collier, et al. For those already view of pre-Hispanic cultures, pick up a familiar with Mexico and its culture, copy of Michael D. Coe’s Mexico: From Guillermo Bonfil’s Mexico Profundo: the Olmecs to the Aztecs or Nigel Davies’s Reclaiming a Civilization is a rare bottom- Ancient Kingdoms of Mexico. Richard up view of Mexico today. Townsend’s The Aztecs is a thorough, Lesley Byrd Simpson’s Many Mexicos well-researched examination of the Aztec (University of California Press) provides and the Spanish conquest. For the Maya, comprehensive account of Mexican his- Michael Coe’s The Maya is probably the tory with a cultural context. A classic on best general account. For a survey of understanding the culture of this country Mexican history through modern times, is Distant Neighbors, by Alan Riding A Short History of Mexico by J. Patrick (Vintage). McHenry (Doubleday) provides a com- ART & ARCHITECTURE Art and plete, yet concise account. Time in Mexico: From the Conquest to the John L. Stephens’s Incidents of Travel in Revolution, by Elizabeth Wilder Weis- the Yucatan, Vol. I and II (Dover Publica- mann, covers religious, public, and pri- tions) are considered among the great vate architecture. Casa Mexicana, by Tim books of archeological discovery, as well Street-Porter, takes readers through the as being travel classics. interiors of some of Mexico’s finest For a more modern explorations of the homes-turned-museums, public build- archeology of the region, Peter Tompkins ings, and private homes. Mysteries of the Mexican Pyramids is a For a wonderful read on the food of the visually rich book, which explores not Yucatán and Mexico, pick up Mexico, One only the ruins of the Maya in the Plate at a Time, by celebrity chef and Mex- Yucatán, but the whole of Mexico’s ico aficionado Rick Bayless (Scribner). archaeological treasures. For contemporary culture, start with NATURE A Naturalist’s Mexico, by Octavio Paz’s classic, The Labyrinth of Roland H. Wauer, is a fabulous guide to Solitude, which still generates controversy birding. A Hiker’s Guide to Mexico’s Nat- among Mexicans. For a recent collection ural History, by Jim Conrad, covers flora of writings by Subcomandante Marcos, and fauna and tells how to find the easy- leader of the Zapatista movement, try to-reach as well as out-of-the-way spots Our Word Is Our Weapon. Another source he describes. Peterson Field Guides: Mexi- is Basta! Land and the Zapatista Rebellion can Birds, by Roger Tory Peterson and Edward L. Chalif, is an excellent guide. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 56
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FAST FACTS: Mexico
Abbreviations Dept. (apartments); Apdo. (post office box); Av. (avenida; avenue); c/ (calle; street); Calz. (calzada; boulevard). “C” on faucets stands for caliente (hot), “F” for fría (cold). “PB” (planta baja) means ground floor; in most buildings the next floor up is the first floor (1). ATM Networks See “Banks & ATMs,” p 22. Business Hours In general, businesses in larger cities are open between 9am and 7pm; in smaller towns many close between 2 and 4pm. Most close on Sun- day. In resort areas it is common to find stores open at least in the mornings on Sunday, and for shops to stay open late, often until 8pm or even 10pm. Bank hours are Monday through Friday from 9 or 9:30am to anywhere between 3 and 7 pm. Increasingly, banks open on Saturday for at least a half-day. Cameras & Film Film costs about the same as in the United States. Tourists wishing to use a video or still camera at any archaeological site in Mexico or at many museums operated by the Instituto de Antropología e Historia (INAH) must pay $4 per camera at each site visited. (Listings for specific sites and muse- ums note this fee.) Also, use of a tripod at any archaeological site requires a permit from INAH. It’s courteous to ask permission before photographing any- one. It is never considered polite to take photos inside a church in Mexico. Car Rentals See “Getting Around Mexico,” p 52. Currency See “Money,” p 21. Driving Rules See “Getting Around Mexico,” p 52. Electricity The electrical system in Mexico is 110 volts AC (60 cycles), as in the United States and Canada. In reality, however, it may cycle more slowly and overheat your appliances. To compensate, select a medium or low speed on hair dryers. Many older hotels still have electrical outlets for flat two-prong plugs; you’ll need an adapter for any plug with an enlarged end on one prong or with three prongs. Many better hotels have three-hole outlets (trifásicos in Spanish). Those that don’t may have loan adapters, but to be sure, it’s always better to carry your own. Embassies & Consulates Contrary to popular belief, your embassy cannot get you out of jail, provide postal or banking services, or fly you home when you run out of money. They can provide valuable lists of doctors and lawyers, as well as regulations concerning marriages in Mexico. Most countries have an embassy in Mexico City, and many have consular offices or representatives in the provinces. The Embassy of the United States in Mexico City is at Paseo de la Reforma 305, next to the Hotel María Isabel Sheraton at the corner of Río Danubio (& 555/080-2000 or 555/511-9980); hours are Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Visit www.usembassy-mexico.gov for addresses of the U.S. consulates inside Mexico. There are U.S. Consulates General at López Mateos 924-N, Ciudad Juárez (& 656/611-3000); Progreso 175, Guadalajara (& 333/ 268-2100); Av. Constitución 411 Pte., Monterrey (& 818/345-2120); and 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 57
FAST FACTS: MEXICO 57
Tapachula 96, Tijuana (& 664/622-7400). In addition, there are consular agen- cies in Acapulco (& 744/469-0556); Cabo San Lucas (& 624/143-3566); Cancún (& 998/883-0272); Cozumel (& 987/872-4574); Hermosillo (& 662/217-2375); Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo (& 755/553-2100); Matamoros (& 868/812-4402); Mazatlán (& 669/916-5889); Mérida (& 999/925-5011); Nogales (& 631/313-4820); Nuevo Laredo (& 867/714-0512); Oaxaca (& 951/514-3054); Puerto Vallarta (& 322/222-0069); San Luis Potosí (& 444/811-7802); and San Miguel de Allende (& 415/152-2357). The Embassy of Australia in Mexico City is at Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco (& 55/1101-2200; fax 55/5531-9552). It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm. The Embassy of Canada in Mexico City is at Schiller 529, Col. Polanco (& 555/724-7900); it’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm. At other times, the name of a duty officer is posted on the door. Visit www.dfait- maeci.gc.ca for addresses of consular agencies in Mexico. There are Canadian consulates in Acapulco (& 744/484-1305); Cancún (& 998/883-3360); Guadala- jara (& 333/615-6215); Mazatlán (& 669/913-7320); Monterrey (& 818/ 344-2753); Oaxaca (& 951/513-3777); Puerto Vallarta (& 322/293-0098); San José del Cabo (& 624/142-4333); and Tijuana (& 664/684-0461). The Embassy of New Zealand in Mexico City is at José Luis Lagrange 103, 10th floor, Col. Los Morales Polanco (& 555/283-9460; kiwimexico@compuserve. com.mx). It’s open Monday through Friday from 8am to 3pm. The Embassy of the United Kingdom in Mexico City is at Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc (& 555/242-8500; www.embajadabritanica.com.mx). It’s open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 3:30pm. The Embassy of Ireland in Mexico City is at Bulevar Cerrada, Avila Camacho 76, 3rd floor, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec (& 555/520-5803). It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. The South African Embassy in Mexico City is at Andrés Bello 10, 9th floor, Col. Polanco (& 555/282-9260). It’s open Monday through Friday from 8am to 3:30pm. Emergencies In case of emergency, dial 065 from any phone within Mexico. For police emergency numbers, turn to “Fast Facts” in the chapters that follow. The 24-hour Tourist Help Line in Mexico City is & 01-800/903-9200 or 555/250- 0151. The operators don’t always speak English, but they are always willing to help. The tourist legal assistance office (Procuraduría del Turista) in Mexico City (& 555/625-8153 or 555/625-8154;) always has an English speaker available. Though the phones are frequently busy, they operate 24 hours. Holidays See “Yucatán Calendar of Events,” p. 25. Information See “Visitor Information,” p. 18. Internet Access In large cities and resort areas, a growing number of top hotels offer business centers with Internet access. You’ll also find cybercafes in destinations that are popular with ex-pats and business travelers. Even in remote spots, Internet access is common. Note that many ISPs automatically cut off your Internet connection after a specified period of time (say, 10 min.), because telephone lines are at a premium. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 58
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Language Spanish is the official language in Mexico. English is spoken and understood to some degree in most tourist areas. Mexicans are very accom- modating with foreigners who try to speak Spanish, even in broken sentences. For basic vocabulary, refer to appendix B. Legal Aid International Legal Defense Counsel, 111 S. 15th St., 24th floor, Packard Building, Philadelphia, PA 19102 (& 215/977-9982), is a law firm spe- cializing in legal difficulties of Americans abroad. See also “Embassies & Con- sulates” and “Emergencies,” above. Liquor Laws The legal drinking age in Mexico is 18; however, asking for ID or denying purchase is extremely rare. Grocery stores sell everything from beer and wine to national and imported liquors. You can buy liquor 24 hours a day, but during major elections, dry laws often are enacted for as much as 72 hours in advance of the election—and they apply to tourists as well as local residents. Mexico does not have laws that apply to transporting liquor in cars, but authorities are beginning to target drunk drivers more aggressively. It’s a good idea to drive defensively. It is not legal to drink in the street; however, many tourists do so. Use your judgment—if you are getting drunk, you shouldn’t drink in the street, because you are more likely to get stopped by the police. Lost & Found To replace a lost passport, contact your embassy or nearest con- sular agent. You must establish a record of your citizenship and fill out a form requesting another FMT (tourist permit) if it, too, was lost. If your documents are stolen, get a police report from local authorities; having one might lessen the hassle of exiting the country without all your identification. Without the FMT, you can’t leave the country, and without an affidavit affirming your pass- port request and citizenship, you may have problems at U.S. Customs when you get home. It’s important to clear everything up before trying to leave. Mexican Customs may, however, accept the police report of the loss of the FMT and allow you to leave. If you lose your wallet anywhere outside of Mexico City, before panicking, retrace your steps—you’ll be surprised at how honest people are, and you’ll likely find someone trying to find you to return your wallet. If your wallet is stolen, the police probably won’t be able to recover it. Be sure to notify all of your credit card companies right away, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; these numbers are not toll-free within Mexico (see “Telephone & Fax,” below, for instructions on calling U.S. toll-free numbers). The company may be able to wire you a cash advance off your credit card immediately, and, in many places, can deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa’s U.S. emergency number is & 800/ 847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call & 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call & 800/ 307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at & 800/555-1212. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 59
FAST FACTS: MEXICO 59
If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and Ameri- can Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (& 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). Identity theft or fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet, especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (& 800/766-0008; www. equifax.com), Experian (& 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and Trans Union (& 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID call your airline and explain the situation; they might allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed. Mail Postage for a postcard or letter is 1 peso; it may arrive anywhere from 1 to 6 weeks later. A registered letter costs $1.90. Sending a package can be quite expensive—the Mexican postal service charges $8 per kilo (2.2 lb.)—and unreliable; it takes 2 to 6 weeks, if it arrives at all. The recommended way to send a package or important mail is through FedEx, DHL, UPS, or another rep- utable international mail service. Newspapers & Magazines There currently is no national English-language news- paper. Newspaper kiosks in larger cities carry a selection of English-language magazines. Passports For Residents of the United States: Whether you’re applying in per- son or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (& 877/487-2778) for auto- mated information. For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (& 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest pass- port office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at & 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk. For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Pass- port Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (& 021/272-525) or at most main post offices. For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at & 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 60
60 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE YUCATÁN
For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at & 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz. Police In Mexico City, police are to be suspected as frequently as they are to be trusted; however, you’ll find many who are quite honest and helpful. In the rest of the country, especially in the tourist areas, most are very protective of international visitors. Several cities, including Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán, Can- cún, and Acapulco, have a special corps of English-speaking Tourist Police to assist with directions, guidance, and more. Restrooms See “Toilets,” below. Safety See “Health & Safety,” p. 29. Smoking Smoking is permitted and generally accepted in most public places, including restaurants, bars, and hotel lobbies. Nonsmoking areas and hotel rooms for nonsmokers are becoming more common in higher-end establish- ments, but they tend to be the exception rather than the rule. Taxes The 15% IVA (value-added) tax applies on goods and services in most of Mexico, and it’s supposed to be included in the posted price. This tax is 10% in Cancún, Cozumel, and Los Cabos. There is a 5% tax on food and drinks con- sumed in restaurants that sell alcoholic beverages with an alcohol content of more than 10%; this tax applies whether you drink alcohol or not. Tequila is subject to a 25% tax. Mexico imposes an exit tax of around $18 on every for- eigner leaving the country, as well as a tourism tax of $18 (see “Airport Taxes” under “Getting Around Mexico: By Plane,” earlier in this chapter). Telephone & Fax Mexico’s telephone system is slowly but surely catching up with modern times. All telephone numbers have 10 digits. Every city and town that has telephone access has a two-digit (Mexico City, Monterrey, and Guadalajara) or three-digit (everywhere else) area code. In Mexico City, Mon- terrey, and Guadalajara, local numbers have eight digits; elsewhere, local num- bers have seven digits. To place a local call, you do not need to dial the area code. Many fax numbers are also regular telephone numbers; ask whoever answers for the fax tone (“me da tono de fax, por favor”). Cellular phones are very popular for small businesses in resort areas and smaller communities. To call a cellular number inside the same area code, dial 044 and then the num- ber. To dial the cellular phone from anywhere else in Mexico, first dial 01, and then the three-digit area code and the seven-digit number. To dial it from the U.S., dial 011-52, plus the three-digit area code and the seven-digit number. The country code for Mexico is 52. To call Mexico: If you’re calling Mexico from the United States: 1. Dial the international access code: 011. 2. Dial the country code: 52. 3. Dial the two- or three-digit area code, then the eight- or seven-digit num- ber. For example, if you wanted to call the U.S. consulate in Acapulco, the whole number would be 011-52-744-469-0556. If you wanted to dial the U.S. embassy in Mexico City, the whole number would be 011-52-55-5209-9100. 06_58796x_ch02.qxd 7/20/05 7:00 PM Page 61
FAST FACTS: MEXICO 61
To make international calls: To make international calls from Mexico, first dial 00, then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, to call the British Embassy in Washington, you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800. For directory assistance: Dial & 040 if you’re looking for a number inside Mex- ico. Note: Listings usually appear under the owner’s name, not the name of the business, and your chances to find an English-speaking operator are slim to none. For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 090 to make an international call, and 020 to call a number in Mexico. Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 800 within Mexico are toll-free, but calling a U.S. toll-free number from Mexico costs the same as an overseas call. To call an 800 number in the U.S., dial 001-880 and the last seven digits of the toll-free number. To call an 888 number in the U.S., dial 001-881 and the last seven digits of the toll-free number. For a number with an 887 prefix, dial 882; for 866, dial 883. Time Zone Central time prevails throughout most of Mexico. The states of Sonora, Sinaloa, and parts of Nayarit are on Mountain time. The state of Baja California Norte is on Pacific time, but Baja California Sur is on Mountain time. All of Mexico observes daylight saving time. Tipping Most service employees in Mexico count on tips for the majority of their income, and this is especially true for bellboys and waiters. Bellboys should receive the equivalent of 50¢ to $1 per bag; waiters generally receive 10% to 20%, depending on the level of service. It is not customary to tip taxi drivers, unless they are hired by the hour or provide touring or other special services. Toilets Public toilets are not common in Mexico, but an increasing number are available, especially at fast-food restaurants and Pemex gas stations. These facilities and restaurant and club restrooms commonly have attendants, who expect a small tip (about 50¢). Useful Phone Numbers Tourist Help Line, available 24 hours (& 01-800/ 903-9200 toll-free inside Mexico). Mexico Hot Line (& 800/44-MEXICO). U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory, staffed 24 hours (& 202/647-5225). U.S. Passport Agency (& 202/647-0518). U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention International Traveler’s Hot Line (& 404/332-4559). Water Most hotels have decanters or bottles of purified water in the rooms, and the better hotels have either purified water from regular taps or special taps marked agua purificada. Some hotels charge for in-room bottled water. Virtually any hotel, restaurant, or bar will bring you purified water if you specifically request it but will usually charge you for it. Drugstores and grocery stores sell bottled purified water. Some popular brands are Santa María, Ciel, and Bonafont. Evian and other imported brands are also widely available. 07_58796x_ch03.qxd 7/20/05 7:02 PM Page 62
3 Suggested Yucatán Itineraries by David Baird
The following itineraries assume you’re but Cancún and the other cities of the flying in and out of Cancún, by far the peninsula are fairly easy. most common point of entry for the The following itineraries are merely Yucatán. The airport is south of town in suggestions, and can be tweaked to spe- the direction of the Riviera Maya, so cific tastes and interests. However, I rec- those who are renting cars to drive down ommend against being too ambitious the coast won’t have to deal with city traf- with your vacation time. The heat and fic. For traveling around the Yucatán, humidity bring about a lethargy that can rental cars work well. The roads are all be enjoyable if you’re not preoccupied easy to figure out, and there’s not much with a timetable. Keep in mind as well traffic when you move inland. Finding that it gets dark early here and it’s not a your way around Mérida is a little tricky, good idea to do too much night driving.
1 Northern Yucatán in a Week You could extend this itinerary to 10 days, even 2 weeks—it all depends on how much time you want to spend on the beach. Once you’ve spent a little time in that clear blue water, it’s hard to pull yourself away to move inland. But you’ll probably find some- thing in this trip to entice you.
Days 1 & 2: Somewhere time. When you get to Valladolid, head on the Caribbean Coast north on Highway 295 to the turnoff for Spend a few days relaxing on the beach. Ek Balam. After climbing the main pyra- mid and inspecting the beautifully 3 Day : Chichén Itzá worked sacred doorway, head back to Have a morning swim before driving to Valladolid for a late lunch. Drive to the ruins of Ek Balam (p. 234), which Chichén Itzá via the old highway. Shortly lie north of the colonial city of Val- after leaving town stop to enjoy Cenote ladolid. If you’re coming from Cancún or Dzitnup (p. 234). Continue on to the northern Riviera Maya, you can take Chichén Itzá (p. 224) and check into a the modern toll highway and save a lot of hotel in the area. In the evening see the travel time, though the toll is a little sound and light show, and then visit the pricey. If you’re in Playa del Carmen or ruins the next morning. farther south, you’re better off driving south to Tulum and taking the highway Days 4 & 5: Mérida & Environs to Cobá. You can stop and see the ruins Drive to Mérida (p. 182) and enjoy an of Cobá (p. 169) if you allow enough evening in this bustling tropical city. Next 07_58796x_ch03.qxd 7/20/05 7:02 PM Page 63
Northern Yucatán in a Week
0 60 mi N 0 60 km Isla Mujeres CancúnCancCancú n 7 Gulf of MMéridaéridarida EkEk BalamBalam Mexico 4 5 Playa del 3 Carmen ChichCChichén-Itzáhiché n-Itzn-Itzá 1 2 DzitnupDzitnup UxmalUxmal 6 YUCATÁNYUCATYUCATÁN Isla de Cozumel CAMPECHECAMPECHE QUINTANA Caribbean ROO Sea
day, you can explore the city, or perhaps by late afternoon, so that you can rest do some shopping. A third option is to and cool off before seeing the sound and enjoy Mérida in the evenings when there’s light show. Uxmal’s Pyramid of the always something going on and take some Magician is one of the most dramatic side trips during the day. Choices include structures in the Maya world and it Celestún National Wildlife Refuge becomes even more intriguing when lit (p. 203), where you can take a boat ride at night. The next morning you can and see some pink flamingos or Dzi- explore the ruins in more detail. See bilchaltún (p. 204), to see the ruins and p. 210. site museum, and then on to Progreso Day 7: Cancún and Xcambó (p. 205), where you’ve also got a good chance of seeing flamingos. This last day will necessarily include a good bit of driving. Take the short route Day 6: The Ruins of Uxmal back via Uman, then use the loop or per- No matter whether you take the short iférico to avoid entering Mérida. After a way or the long way (for details on both while you’ll see signs for the highway to routes, see p 206), try to get to Uxmal Cancún. See chapter 4.
2 An Eco-Adventure for the Whole Family If you’ve got your own mask and snorkel (and fins, too) bring them for this trip; you can always get rentals, but you’re better off with gear that fits you comfortably.
Day 1: Arrive at Cancún Airport simply enjoy the parklands encircling the For this itinerary, it’s best to stay in the water. You can stay here the whole day or lower Riviera Maya, at a hotel or condo combine this with a trip to see the ruins in the Xpu-Ha–Akumal–Tulum area. in Tulum (which you should do in the That puts you close to most of the places morning.) See p. 163. you’ll be going. The drive from the air- Day 3: Hidden Worlds port to this part of the coast is at most & Aktun Chen 2 hours. See p. 159. Between Akumal and Tulum are two Day 2: Xel-Ha & the Ruins attractions, each interesting in its own of Tulum way. At Hidden Worlds (p. 162) you Start by enjoying a nice swim at Xel-Ha’s can snorkel in a couple of different lovely lagoon (p. 161), go snorkeling, or cenotes (sinkholes or wellsprings) and 07_58796x_ch03.qxd 7/20/05 7:02 PM Page 64
An Eco-Adventure for the Whole Family
SANSAN FELIPEFELIPE Gulf of Mexico NATURENATURE RESERVERESERVE RÍORÍO LAGARTOSLAGARTOS 7 NATURENATURE RESERVERESERVE 8 Isla 1 Mujeres CELESTÚNCELESTCELESTÚ N YUCATÁNYUCATY U C A T Á N NATURENATURE EkEk BalamBalam CancCCancúnancú n RESERVERESERVE 307 6 7 4 Chichén-ItzáChichChiché n-Itzn-Itzá Playa del Carmen DzitnupDzitnup AkumalAkumal UxmalUxmal Isla de Xel-HaXel-Ha 3 Cozumel TulumTulum 2 XEL-HA LAGOON NATIONAL PARK
CAMPECHECAMPECHE Bahía de Caribbean 5 la Ascensión Sea SIANSIAN QUINTANAQUINTANA Bahía del 0 60 mi KA’ANKAKA’ANAN Espíritu Santo ROOROO BIOSPHEREBIOSPHERE N RESERVERESERVE 0 60 km
subterranean rivers for which the Day 6: Chichén Itzá Yucatán is famous. The water is cold, Go for a morning snorkel trip with one of but this outfit provides wet suits and the local dive shops, and then drive to snorkel gear if you don’t bring your own. Chichén Itzá in the afternoon. Check Aktun Chen (p. 161) is a cavern that into a hotel, and in the evening you can you can hike through and see lots of enjoy the sound and light show at the rock formations. There is also a small ruins. Return the next morning to get a zoo with local species. closer look in daylight. See p. 224. Day 4: Alltournative Day 7: Cenote Dzitnup , Alltournative is a tour agency based in Ek Balam & Río Lagartos Playa del Carmen. It offers daytrips that Nature Reserve combine adventure with nature and contact After seeing the ruins, head east on the with contemporary Maya in one of their old federal highway until you get to own villages. They will pick up customers at Cenote Dzitnup, shortly before the town almost any hotel in the Riviera Maya. You of Valladolid. You’ll find a dark cenote can fly out over the jungle on a zip line, try with a beautiful pool of water illuminated your hand at rappelling, and have a Maya- by a column of sunlight that penetrates style meal all in the same day. See p. 144. the roof. Nearby is a second cenote. After a quick dip, continue into Valladolid Day 5: Sian Ka’an Biosphere (p. 232) for lunch and then head north Reserve on Highway 295 to the turnoff for the Explore the largest wildlife preserve in the recently excavated ruins of Ek Balam, Yucatán; snorkel down canals built by the noted for some beautifully sculpted Maya, visit the large, pristine lagoon at sacred doorway on the tallest pyramid in the center of the park, and observe vari- northern Yucatán. Continue north past ous forms of wildlife as you get an up- the town of Tizimín until you get to the close-and-personal view of the peninsula’s coastal village of Río Lagartos. Here you natural habitat. Tour agencies do full day can get a room at one of the economical tours. See p. 169.
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hotels fronting the water and arrange for ride through mangrove and saltwater an early-morning boat tour of the wildlife estuaries. See p. 235. sanctuary. Not only will you see those eye- Day 8: Cancún catching natural wonders, pink flamingos, After your visit with pink flamingos but you’ll see a host of other species as it’s time to get back to Cancún and well, and have a rather enjoyable boat civilization.
3 La Ruta Maya This route, which connects the major Maya sites in Mexico, could be done quickly in 2 weeks, or more slowly in a month or perhaps broken up into two trips. I’ve kept the trip to the minimum by avoiding the city of Mérida, but you may want to enjoy the city. There is a risk of overdosing on ruins by seeing too many in too short a time. I give you the fast-track approach, but that doesn’t mean that I am encouraging you to move through this area that quickly. The best mode of travel would be a rental car: The highways are not terribly busy and are for the most part in good shape.
Day 1: Arrive in Cancún town of Acanceh (p. 206) and Highway After you arrive, enjoy the remainder of 18. Stop to see the small but interesting the day with a swim in the Caribbean or a ruins in the middle of town, then proceed relaxing afternoon poolside. See chapter 4. down Highway 18 to the ruins of Mayapán (p. 206). Afterward, continue Day 2: Ek Balam through Ticul to Santa Elena and Uxmal. & Chichén Itzá Experience the sound-and-light show. See Get on the modern toll highway that p. 206. heads toward Mérida and take the exit for Valladolid. Head north away from the Day 4: Edzná town to visit the ruins of Ek Balam Visit Uxmal (p. 208) in the morning, (p. 234). Highlights include a sacred then drive back toward Santa Elena and doorway richly decorated with vivid fig- take Highway 261 south to Hopelchén ures of gods and men. Then it’s back to and on to the impressive ruins of Edzná the town of Valladolid for lunch before (p. 217). Nearby is a fancy hacienda driving the short distance to Chichén turned hotel called Uayamón (p. 197; Itzá (p. 224) on the old federal highway. reservations can be made through Star- Just outside of town, stop to see the wood hotels) or drive into the town of cenotes of Dzitnup and Sammulá Campeche and stay at more modest digs. (p. 234). Farther on is the cave of Bal- Days 5 & 6: Palenque , ankanché (p. 231). When you get to Bonampak & Yaxchilán Chichén, check into your hotel then go to the ruins later in the evening for the Stay on Highway 261 to Escárcega, then sound-and-light show. See p. 226. head west on Highway 186 toward Vil- lahermosa then south on Highway 199 Day 3: Continuing to Uxmal to the town of Palenque (p. 246) with Spend more time at the ruins of Chichén its magnificent ruins. The next day go to Itzá in the morning then continue west the ruins of Bonampak and Yaxchilán on toll highway toward Mérida, and turn (p. 253) using one of the local tour off at Ticopó. Head south toward the operators. 07_58796x_ch03.qxd 7/20/05 7:02 PM Page 66
La Ruta Maya
0 100 mi N 0 100 km 1 13 CCancúnancún Ruins YYUCATÁNU C A T ÁN MéridaMérida EEkk BBalamalam 2 MayapánMayapán XXel-Háel-Há Isla ChichénChichén CCobáobá Cozumel Gulf of Mexico IItzátzá 11 12 TTulumulum UUxmalxmal KabahKabah TTulumulum 3 LabnáLabná MMuyiluyil XayilXayil CCampecheampeche 4 EdznáEdzná QUINTANAQ U I N T A N A ROOR O O
CAMPECHEC A M P E C H E BBalamkúalamkú 10 BecánBecán 9 XpuhilXpuhil EEscárcegascárcega ChicannáChicanná 10 TTABASCOA B A S C O CCalakmulalakmul
Palenque,Palenque, BonampakBonampak & BBELIZEE L I Z E 5 6 YaxchilánYaxchilá n GGUATEMALAU A T E M A L A Golf of Honduras CCHIAPASH I A P A S 7 8 SanSan CristóbalCristóbal dede laslas CasasCasas
HHONDURASO N D U R A S
Days 7 & 8: San Cristóbal de las turnoff for Calakmul, one of the prime Casas city-states of the classic age of the Maya, Keep south on Highway 199 toward San and not often visited. Cristóbal (p. 253). On the way, take a Day 0: Calakmul & Becán swimming break at Agua Azul (p. 252), and visit the ruins of Toniná outside of Get to Calakmul (p. 179) early. Keep the town of Ocosingo. From San your eyes open for wildlife as you drive Cristóbal, go with one of the local guides along a narrow jungle road. All the area to see the present-day Maya communities surrounding the city is a wildlife pre- of Chamula and Zinacantan (p. 262). serve. For most of the city’s history, Spend some time enjoying the town. Calakmul was the main rival to the city of Tikal, which is in present-day Guatemala. Day 9: En Route to Calakmul It eventually defeated Tikal and subju- Retrace your steps to Escárcega and con- gated it for 100 years. Calakmul’s Struc- tinue east on Highway 186. If there’s ture 2 is the highest Maya pyramid in time, visit the fascinating sculptures of Mexico. Afterward, continue east on Balamkú (p. 179). Spend the night at Highway 186 to see the ruins of Becán, a one of the hotels in the vicinity of the large ceremonial center with tall temples.
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LA RUTA MAYA 67 Also in the vicinity are Xpujil and Chi- through the ruins and enjoy the lovely canná. Spend the night on the shores of view of the coast. See p. 163. Lake Bacalar, where you can cool off in Day #: Back to Cancún its blue waters. See p. 179. Drive back to Cancún. Depending on Days ! & @: Tulum your schedule, you can enjoy some more Drive north on Highway 307 to Tulum beach time, or simply head to the airport and settle into one of the small beach (25 min. south of Cancún) and depart. hotels there. In the morning walk See chapter 4. 08_58796x_ch04.qxd 7/20/05 7:03 PM Page 68
4 Cancún by Lynne Bairstow
Mexico’s calling card to the world, Can- because you immediately see familiar cún perfectly showcases both the country’s names for dining, shopping, nightclub- breathtaking natural beauty and the depth bing, and sleeping. of its 1,000-year history. Simply stated, You may have heard that in 1974 a Cancún is the reason most people travel team of Mexican government computer to Mexico. The sheer number of travelers analysts picked Cancún for tourism underscores Cancún’s magnetic appeal, development for its ideal mix of elements with almost three million people visiting to attract travelers—and they were right this enticing beach resort annually—most on. It’s actually an island, a 24km (14- of them on their first trip to the country. mile) sliver of land connected to the The reasons for this are both numerous mainland by two bridges and separated and obvious. from it by the expansive Nichupté Cancún offers an unrivaled combina- lagoon. (Cancún means “golden snake” in tion of high-quality accommodations, Mayan.) dreamy beaches, easy air access, and a In addition to attractions of its own, wide diversity of shopping, dining, Cancún is a convenient distance from the nightlife, and nearby activities—most of more traditional resorts of Isla Mujeres them exceptional values. There is also the and from the coastal zone now known as lure of ancient cultures evident in all the Riviera Maya—extending down from directions and a number of ecologically Cancún, through Playa del Carmen, to oriented theme parks. the Maya ruins at Tulum, Cozumel, No doubt about it—Cancún embodies Chichén Itzá, and Cobá. All are within Caribbean splendor, with translucent day-trip distance. turquoise waters and powdery white-sand You will run out of vacation days beaches, coupled with coastal areas of before you run out of things to do in great natural beauty. But Cancún is also a Cancún. Snorkeling, jet-skiing, jungle modern megaresort. Even a traveler feel- tours, and visits to ancient Maya ruins ing apprehensive about visiting foreign and modern ecological theme parks are soil will feel completely at ease here. Eng- among the most popular diversions. lish is spoken, dollars are accepted, roads There are a dozen malls with name-brand are well paved, and lawns are manicured. and duty-free shops (with European Malls are the mode for shopping and din- goods at prices better than in the U.S.), ing, and you could swear that some hotels and more than 350 restaurants and night- are larger than a small town. Travelers feel clubs. The 24,000-plus hotel rooms in comfortable in Cancún. You do not need the area offer something for every taste to spend a day getting your bearings, and every budget. 08_58796x_ch04.qxd 7/20/05 7:03 PM Page 69
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Cancún’s luxury hotels have pools so and wriggle your toes in the fine, bril- spectacular that you may find it tempting liantly white sand. It is, after all, what put to remain poolside, but don’t. Set aside Cancún on the map. some time to simply gaze into the ocean
1 Orientation GETTING THERE BY PLANE If this is not your first trip to Cancún, you’ll notice that the airport’s facilities and services continue to expand. Aeromexico (& 800/237-6639 in the U.S., or 01/800-021-4000 in Mexico; www.aeromexico.com) offers direct service from Atlanta, Houston, Miami, and New York, plus connecting service via Mexico City from Dallas, Los Angeles, and San Diego. Mexicana (& 800/531-7921 in the U.S., or 01/800-502-2000 or 998/881-9090 in Mexico; www.mexicana.com.mx) flies from Chicago, Denver, Los Angeles, Oakland, San Antonio, San Francisco, and San Jose via Mexico City, with nonstop service from Miami and New York. In addition to these carriers, many charter companies—such as Apple Vacations, Funjet, and Friendly Holidays—travel to Cancún; these package tours make up as much as 60% of arrivals by U.S. visitors (see “Packages for the Independent Traveler,” in chapter 2). Regional carrier AeroCaribe, a Mexicana affiliate (& 998/884-2000) flies from Cozumel, Havana, Mexico City, Mérida, Chetumal, and other points within Mexico. You’ll want to confirm departure times for flights to the U.S.; here are the Cancún air- port numbers of major international carriers: American (& 998/883-4461; www. aa.com), Continental (& 998/886-0006; www.continental.com), and Northwest (& 998/886-0044 or 998/886-0046; www.nwa.com). Most major car-rental firms have outlets at the airport, so if you’re renting a car, con- sider picking it up and dropping it off at the airport to save on airport-transportation costs. Another way to save money is to arrange for the rental before you leave home. If you wait until you arrive, the daily cost will be around $50 to $75 for a Chevrolet Chevy or Athos. Major agencies include Avis (& 800/331-1212 in the U.S., or 998/886-0221; www.avis.com); Budget (& 800/527-0700 in the U.S., or 998/886-0417; fax 998/884-4812; www.budget.com); Dollar (& 800/800-4000 in the U.S., or 998/886-2300; www.dollar.com); National (& 800/328-4567 in the U.S., or 998/886-0655; www.nationalcar.com); and Hertz (& 800/654-3131 in the U.S. and Canada, or 998/884-1326; www.hertz.com). The Zona Hotelera (Hotel 1 Zone) is 10km (6 ⁄2 miles), or about a 20-minute drive, from the airport along wide, well-paved roads. Rates for a private taxi from the airport are around $20 to downtown Cancún, or $28 to $40 to the Hotel Zone, depending on your destination. Colectivos (vans) run from the airport into town. Buy tickets, which cost about $9, from the booth to the far right as you exit the airport terminal. There’s minibus transportation ($9.50) from the airport to the Puerto Juárez passenger ferry to Isla Mujeres, or you can hire a pri- vate taxi for about $40. There is no colectivo service returning to the airport from Ciu- dad Cancún or the Hotel Zone, so you’ll have to take a taxi, but the rate will be much less than for the trip from the airport. (Only federally chartered taxis may take fares from the airport, but any taxi may bring passengers to the airport.) Ask at your hotel what the fare should be, but expect to pay about half what you paid from the airport to your hotel. 08_58796x_ch04.qxd 7/20/05 7:03 PM Page 70
70 CHAPTER 4 . CANCÚN
Tips The Best Websites for Cancún
• All About Cancún: www.cancunmx.com This site is a good place to start planning. There’s a database of answers to the most common questions, called “The Online Experts.” It’s slow, but it has input from lots of recent travelers to the region. • Cancún Convention & Visitors Bureau: www.cancun.info The official site of the Cancún Convention & Visitors Bureau lists excellent informa- tion on events and attractions. Its hotel guide is one of the most com- plete available, and it has an active message board of recent visitors to Cancún. • Cancún Online: www.cancun.com This comprehensive guide has lots of information about things to do and see in Cancún, with most details pro- vided by paying advertisers. You can even reserve a tee time or conduct wedding planning online. • Cancún Travel Guide: www.go2cancun.com This group specializing in online information about Mexico has put together an excellent resource for Cancún rentals, hotels, and attractions. Note that it lists only paying advertisers, but you’ll find most of the major players. • Mexico Web Cancún Chat: www.mexicoweb.com/chats/Cancún This is one of the more active chats online specifically about Cancún. The users share inside information on everything from the cheapest beer to the quality of food at various all-inclusive resorts.
BY CAR From Mérida or Campeche, take Highway 180 east to Cancún. This is mostly a winding, two-lane road that branches off into the express toll road 180D between Izamal and Nuevo Xcan. Nuevo Xcan is approximately 42km (26 miles) 1 from Cancún. Mérida is about 83km (52 miles) away, a 3 ⁄2-hour drive. BY BUS Cancún’s ADO bus terminal (& 998/884-4352 or 998/884-4804) is in downtown Ciudad Cancún at the intersection of avenidas Tulum and Uxmal. All out- of-town buses arrive here. Buses run to Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Chichén Itzá, other nearby beach and archaeological zones, and other points within Mexico. For package deals to popular destinations, see “Day Trips: Archaeological Sites & Eco-Theme Parks,” later in this chapter. VISITOR INFORMATION The State Tourism Office, Av. Tulum 26 (& 998/881-9000 or 998/884-8073), is centrally located downtown next to Banco Bancomer, immediately left of the Ayun- tamiento Benito Juárez building, between avenidas Cobá and Uxmal. It’s open Mon- day to Friday from 9am to 5pm. The Convention & Visitors Bureau tourist information office, Avenida Cobá at Avenida Tulum (& 998/884-6531 or 998/ 884-3438), next to Pizza Rolandi, is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 7pm. Each office lists hotels and their rates, and ferry schedules. For information prior to your arrival in Cancún, visit the Convention Bureau’s website, www.cancun.info. Pick up copies of the free monthly Cancún Tips booklet and a seasonal tabloid of the same name. The publications are owned by the same people who own the 08_58796x_ch04.qxd 7/20/05 7:03 PM Page 71
Downtown Cancún