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Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page i Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2006 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page ii 01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page i Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2006 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_58796x_ffirs.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page ii Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Pub- lishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/ 572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-8796-2 ISBN-10: 0-7645-8796-X Editor: Margot Weiss Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Quintana Roo: Shaded area and beach near ocean Back cover photo: El Castillo, also known as Pyramid of Kukulcan, at Chichén Itzá For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_58796x_ftoc.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 1 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 3 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Best Beach Vacations . .3 7 The Best Shopping . .9 2 The Best Cultural Experiences . .6 8 The Hottest Nightlife . .10 3 The Best Archaeological Sites . .6 9 The Most Luxurious Hotels . .10 4 The Best Active Vacations . .7 10 The Best Budget Inns . .11 5 The Best Places to Get 11 The Best Unique Inns . .12 Away from It All . .8 12 The Best Restaurants . .13 6 The Best Museums . .8 2 Planning Your Trip to the Yucatán 15 by Lynne Bairstow 1 The Regions in Brief . .15 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information . .18 Travel Resource . .38 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . .18 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . .39 4 Money . .21 11 Getting There . .40 5 When to Go . .24 12 Packages for the Independent Traveler . .45 Yucatan Calendar of Events . .25 Before You Book a Package . .46 6 Travel Insurance . .27 13 The Active Traveler . .48 7 Health & Safety . .29 14 Tips on Accommodations . .49 Treating & Avoiding Digestive Trouble . .32 15 Getting Around Mexico . .52 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .33 16 Recommended Books . .55 9 Planning Your Trip Online . .36 Fast Facts: Mexico . .56 02_58796x_ftoc.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 3 Suggested Yucatán Itineraries 62 by David Baird 1 Northern Yucatán in a Week . .62 3 La Ruta Maya . .65 2 An Eco-Adventure for the Whole Family . .63 4 Cancún 68 by Lynne Bairstow 1 Orientation . .69 5 Outdoor Activities & Attractions . .93 The Best Websites for Cancún . .70 6 Shopping . .95 Fast Facts: Cancún . .73 7 Cancún After Dark . .96 2 Where to Stay . .75 8 Day Trips: Archaeological Sites 3 Where to Dine . .84 & Eco-Theme Parks . .99 4 Beaches, Watersports & Boat Tours . .90 5 Isla Mujeres & Cozumel 104 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 Isla Mujeres . .104 2 Cozumel . .119 The Best Websites for Isla Mujeres An All-Inclusive Vacation & Cozumel . .106 in Cozumel . .122 Fast Facts: Isla Mujeres . .108 Fast Facts: Cozumel . .123 6 The Caribbean Coast: The Riviera Maya, Including Playa del Carmen & the Costa Maya 137 by David Baird The Best Websites for Playa del Tulum: A Friendly Difference Carmen & the Caribbean Coast . .138 of Opinion . .164 1 Playa del Carmen . .140 The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Fast Facts: Playa del Carmen . .142 Reserve . .169 Choosing an All-Inclusive 5 Cobá Ruins . .169 in the Riviera Maya . .150 6 Majahual, Xcalak & 2 North of Playa del Carmen . .152 the Chinchorro Reef . .173 3 South of Playa del Carmen . .157 7 Lago Bacalar . .175 4 Tulum, Punta Allen 8 Chetumal . .176 & Sian Ka’an . .163 9 Side Trips to Maya Ruins from Chetumal . .178 02_58796x_ftoc.qxd 7/20/05 6:57 PM Page v CONTENTS v 7 Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior 180 by David Baird The Best Websites for Hacienda Hotels . .196 Mérida, Chichén Itzá 2 The Ruins of Uxmal . .208 & the Maya Interior . .182 3 Campeche . .218 1 Mérida: Gateway to Fast Facts: Campeche . .221 the Maya Heartland . .182 Festivals & Special Events 4 The Ruins of Chichén Itzá . .224 in Mérida . .185 5 Valladolid . .232 Fast Facts: Mérida . .186 8 Tabasco & Chiapas 237 by David Baird 1 Villahermosa . .238 Special Events in & near 2 Palenque . .246 San Cristóbal . .260 3 San Cristóbal de las Casas . .253 4 Road Trips from San Cristóbal . .269 The Zapatista Uprising 5 Tuxtla Gutiérrez . .271 & Lingering Tensions . .256 Fast Facts: San Cristóbal de las Casas . .257 Appendix A: The Yucatán in Depth 276 1 The Land & Its People . .276 4 Religion, Myth & Folklore . .287 2 A Look at the Past . .278 Gods & Goddesses . .288 Dateline . .278 5 Food & Drink . .289 3 Art & Architecture 101 . .285 Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 293 1 Telephones & Mail . .293 3 Menu Glossary . .297 2 Basic Vocabulary . .294 Index 300 03_58796x_flast.qxd 7/20/05 6:58 PM Page vi List of Maps Mexico 4 The Yucatán’s Lower Caribbean The Yucatán Peninsula 16 Coast 174 Tabasco & Chiapas 19 What to See & Do in Mérida 189 Northern Yucatán in a Week 63 Where to Stay & Dine in Mérida 195 An Eco-Adventure for Uxmal Ruins 209 the Whole Family 64 Kabah Ruins 213 La Ruta Maya 66 Sayil Ruins 215 Downtown Cancún 71 Labná Ruins 216 Isla Cancún (Zona Hotelera) 77 Campeche 219 Isla Mujeres 105 Chichén Itzá Ruins 225 Cozumel 121 Villahermosa Area 239 San Miguel de Cozumel 125 Palenque Archaeological Site 247 The Yucatán’s Upper Caribbean Where to Stay & Dine Coast 139 in Palenque 250 Playa del Carmen 141 San Cristóbal de las Casas 255 Tulum Ruins 165 Chiapas Highlands 270 Cobá Ruins 171 Acknowledgments David Baird would like to acknowledge an enormous debt to Ms. Claudia Hurtado, whose knowledge and contacts in the Riviera Maya smoothed the way for his research of that area. He would also like to extend a personal thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write him with their suggestions. Lynne Bairstow is appreciative of the invaluable contribution of her research assistant, Alejandra Macedo, to her work on this book. 03_58796x_flast.qxd 7/20/05 6:58 PM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi- ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. About the Authors David Baird has lived in various parts of Latin America, including Mexico, Puerto Rico, Peru, and Brazil. He now makes his home in Austin, Texas, but he tries to get back to the turquoise- blue waters of the Yucatán whenever possible because he thinks he looks good in that color.
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