PANEL TASTING Meursault premiers crus 2010 There may be no grands crus, but the 17 premiers crus from one of Burgundy’s most famous white regions offer serious wines – both rich and racy, says Stephen Brook Meursault, the largest of the white wine villages of 0 1 VOLNAY the Côte de Beaune, has become the hardest to get to grips Meursault premiers crus 1 with. unlike Puligny-Montrachet or Chassagne-Montrachet 1 Les Caillerets kilometre 3 4 5 (or Corton) it has no grands crus, so the consumer is 2 Les Cras MONTHELIE deprived of one rung of the usual Burgundian hierarchy. 3 Les Santenots Blancs 2 4 Les Santenots du Milleu 6 as if to compensate at the other end of the scale, many 5 Les Santenots-Dessous growers focus on individual village sites (lieux-dits). there 6 Les Plures AUXEY- are 132ha (hectares) of premiers crus, but more than 300ha 7 Les Gouttes d’Or DURESSES of village wine. the latter sites vary enormously in quality, 8 Les Bouchères 9 Les Poruzots but many growers are persuaded that the best village sites, N 10 Les Genevrières such as tillets, Narvaux and luchet, have such individuality 11 Les Ravelles C that they are worth bottling separately, rather than blending 12 La Jeunelotte Meursault them into a generic Meursault wine. they are right to do 13 La Pièce sous le Bois so, and even the finest producers bottle a number of these 14 Sous le dos d’Ane 15 Sous Blagny lieu-dit wines, but for consumers it does make matters 16 Les Perrières MEURSAULT even more complex than usual in Burgundy. anyone who 17 Les Charmes wants to make the most of Meursault needs some idea of Meursault lieux-dits 7 the characters of these individual village sites, as well as A A Tillets 8 Dijon some understanding of the 17 premiers crus. B Narvaux as in Nuits-st-georges, the lack of grands crus means C Luchet B COTE DE 9 NUITS that there is much debate about which are the best of the Nuits-St- premiers crus. Many would cite Perrières. as its name premiers crus Georges Meursault-Blagny 10 suggests, it is one of the stoniest vineyards. It certainly BURGUNDYCOTE DE premiers crus BEAUNE gives very mineral wines, and thus stands in complete Beaune Meursault Meursault contrast to another esteemed premier cru: les Charmes. 13 16 t hese wines usually conform to the stereotype of Meursault 11 14 12 17 as a wine of richness, breadth and texture, unlike the racier, 15 Chalon- River steelier wines so typical of Puligny. It’s a large site, and the Blagny COTE DE sur-Saône Saône PULIGNY- CHALONNAISE higher part is valued more than the lower, but it gives lush, MONTRACHET accessible wines that are understandably popular. Site specifics a nother top site, genevrières, has more in common with Meursault: know your vintages Perrières than Charmes, and produces wines with distinct minerality. les gouttes d’Or, with only 5ha under vine, is 2011 a s yet unbottled, but the quality sugars and acidity levels led to some well regarded, as is the larger Porusots. since in many of should be good. Despite much summer excellent wines. these top premiers crus, the higher sector is the more rainfall, rot and dilution were apparently esteemed, some growers distinguish on the label whether rare. a small crop. 2007 a wet august hurt the red their wine is sourced from Dessus (above) or Dessous wines, but the whites were ripe and had (below), and the same is true of some lieux-dits. Moreover, 2010 Poor flowering and the cool good acidity. Very good quality, but some premiers crus lie quite high up in the hamlet of summer did not bode well, but naturally probably surpassed by 2010. Blagny, and can be labelled as Meursault-Blagny. so it’s not low yields brought grapes to full surprising that many consumers find Meursault baffling. ripeness while acidities remained high. 2006 h igh sugars led to full-bodied Fortunately there are many top producers in Meursault, whites, but acidities were adequate rather and often it seems easier to latch on to a favourite rather 2009 a warm summer and dry than exceptional. Not for long ageing. than search for a specific vineyard. the best producers september delivered fleshy, forward tend to be stylistically distinctive, often departing from the wines, though the best have ample acidity. 2005 Very ripe wines, and thick- stereotype – or possible caricature – of Meursault as big skinned berries ensured good extract. and buttery. Many can have a thrilling minerality and 2008 a tricky vintage: mildew, hail some whites may suffer from excessive precision, though not at the expense of weight of fruit. in July and a small crop. But good sugars and thus alcohols. after the breadth of the very ripe 2009 vintage, the greater raciness and tension of the 2010 will be welcome to many lovers of classic white Burgundy. the crop was low after a poor flowering, which proved a godsend over the Meursault: the facts cool summer, as a normal crop might not have ripened. the Total area under vine 448 hectares grapes remained healthy but retained their high acidity. Village vineyards 316ha the wines that succeeded will have achieved a balance 17 premiers crus 132ha: Perrières, Charmes, genevrières, Porusots, Bouchères, between the fruit and acidity. gouttes d’Or, those sold under Meursault-Blagny (Jeunelotte, Pièce sous le Bois, sous le dos d’ane, ravelles and sous Blagny) and the santenots family (santenots Map:Maggie Nelson Stephen Brook is a Decanter contributing editor du Milieu, santenots Blanc and santenots-Dessous, Plures, Cras, Caillerets) ➢ DECANTER • January 2013 | 89 PANEL TASTING Meursault premiers crus 2010 same qualities; it can be just as exciting and Entry criteria: The results racy.’ Devaney felt the trend away from creamy producers and UK Outstanding 18.5–20pts (95–100pts) styles had been creeping in for the past few merchants were an impressive tasting that exceeded all expectation, with our judges praising the ‘grand cru-like quality’ years, though it was more obvious in the 2010s: invited to submit of the ripe yet racy wines. White Burgundy lovers can buy with confidence. Mark O’halleron reports ‘In 2009 the winemakers would still have made any Meursault 2010 wines with minerality, with acidity; they may premier crus have been plumper but you still get backbone.’ In terms of the best-performing vineyards, ‘ClassC I WhIte BurguNDy,’ was stephen Brook’s ‘Amazing! This tasting The scores there were great wines scattered among them, assessment of the wines in this great tasting. ‘the overall 85 wines tasted although Perrières certainly shone according to standard of winemaking was extremely high. I thought the proves that Meursault is an Brook: ‘If there were to be a grand cru in Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Genevrières wines were going to be good, but they surpassed my 4 Meursault, then many people would put Decanter average score: 18.75/20pts (95+/100pts) expectations; it was very impressive.’ steven spurrier was Steven Spurrier Outstanding Perrières forward. It’s quite a stony vineyard – incredible commune’ Individual judge’s scores: also keen to shower the wines with praise: ‘amazing! this there is a quarry near the site – and the wines Stephen Brook 18.5 Gearoid Devaney MS 18.5 Steven Spurrier 19 tasting proves that Meursault is an incredible commune. 35 are very mineral. But I was equally impressed Meursault doesn’t have any grand cru vineyards, but there there wasn’t much sunshine. the grapes eventually Highly recommended with genevrières, which is also a contender for poa Berry Bros & Rudd, Domaine Direct were grand cru-quality wines here; the Meursault-ness of ripened but they probably wouldn’t have had the vines the top premier cru.’ Devaney agreed: ‘they No surprise that a wine from this famous property was the highest-scoring them was absolutely fantastic.’ gearoid Devaney Ms was been carrying a normal crop, and because of the cool 41 were definitely the two vineyards where I saw a wine in the tasting. For almost three decades Dominique lafon has Recommended also enthusiastic, while noting the wider picture: ‘the conditions, acidity stayed way up, so you had ripeness and lot of exciting wines. But that freshness, good maintained the highest standards, in the vineyard and the winery, and young winemakers are so quality conscious and they’re all high acidity. It’s just what you want in white Burgundy.’ 5 acidity and backbone is what I love in Burgundy many consider him the finest white wine producer in Burgundy. Farmed pushing hard to improve. some people thought that all three judges, however, were keen to get across that Fair and I found it here, almost across the board.’ biodynamically, the grapes would have been fermented in roughly 50% because 2010 wasn’t a warm summer we weren’t going to the raciness of the wines was not purely down to the echoing comments made following the new oak, and aged through a second winter in older barrels. get good wines, but this shows that even with cooler vintage. spurrier said: ‘the days of buttery, creamy 0 Vosne-romanée panel tasting (December 2012 Stephen Brook Delicate, oaky, appley nose. lean and tight – has precision conditions, you can get beautiful examples of white Meursault have gone.’ Brook confirmed the change in Poor issue), spurrier said Burgundy was flying high: rather than opulence – taut and stony with a pronounced minerality and Burgundy. Meursault is as exciting as any region today.’ style: ‘Meursault has been caricatured – probably through ‘It’s a golden age for the region.