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Vintages “Mature White Burgundy Inhabits a Different World from the Young Wines We Are Increasingly Accustomed to Drinking

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Vintages “Mature White Burgundy Inhabits a Different World from the Young Wines We Are Increasingly Accustomed to Drinking 1947 — 2018 Vintages “Mature white Burgundy inhabits a different world from the young wines we are increasingly accustomed to drinking. It is a world of depth and mellow, assured intensity. Think of a concerto for strings. Young white Burgundy is a violin – it can display impressive virtuosity but it lacks range. For that, you need the viola, the cello and the double bass. This – call it resonance, or gravitas – is what properly aged white Burgundy delivers.” Guy Seddon suite p.31 suite p.31 Novembre 2016 Tasting Dare we say it: there is always an apprehension when opening A PUCELLE 1987 WITH THE FAMILY an old bottle. The expectations are high as old vintages offer a fantastic aromatic display, very different from the newer vin- tages, whatever their quality. At the same time, we all know that after so many years, there are no such things as good or bad vintages. Only good and “not so good” bottles. The 87 vintage was not particularly illustrious. It was a cold year, maturity was very late and we started harvesting on October 1st. The fact remains that tasting a Pucelles 1987 is rare, and tonight our expectations have reached the pinnacle. We delicately pour the wine into the Zalto glasses and we enter into a silent meditation, transported by the nose slowly opening up, then more and more quickly as we swirl the wine in our glasses. Achille immediately notices ripe mirabelles (small yellow plums). The aromas are delivered one after the other. First honey, then fresh walnut and almond. Aziyadé then discovers notes of thyme or more precisely infusion based on thyme: subtle, delicate and elegant. On the palate, the texture of the wine feels incredibly silky For some time now, I have been searching for the right occa- and concentrated. Louis rightly notes the remarkable balance sion to share an older vintage. It had to be the right time, with of a wine one and a half time older than him. As years go by, the right people and at the right place to make our tribute both alcohol and acidity reduce, yet each constituent responds complete. Valérie, my wife, Achille and Aziyadé, my son and today with subtlety and elegance. Notes of quince are present my daughter are gathered here, in Puligny, this evening. We on the palate and Étienne mentions sensations of wet stone, are also hosting Étienne de Montille and his son Louis for almost like those of a Riesling. Achille finds spicy hint of dinner as I wanted us to share this experience together. I went white pepper. We finally all agree on the delicate presence of to the cellar and picked up a bottle a little at random: it was another herbal tea: a star anise. a Pucelles 1987. Valérie arrives a little after the beginning of the tasting so While my son Achille gently pulls the cork out, we are all star- her first reaction is on the colour: amber, towards red-brown. ing at the bottle: 1987. Already 31 years ago! This was the year It reminded me of a gem similar to the yellow emerald: the Etienne came up to me at Sciences Po: “I know you're from beryl. I wonder why we have not noticed the colour earlier. Puligny. I am from Volnay’’. We have remained close ever since. Maybe because each one of us knows that an old vintage could In 1987, the Domaine was run by our uncle Vincent with his simply be beautiful while having that dark aspect which, on cheeky smile and an often mischievous look. There was no one a more recent vintage would be a fatal sign… quite like him to tell the story of the Grands Crus of Puligny, especially that very moment when the Chevalier (knight) meets This Pucelle 1987 was, this evening, with Valérie, Achille, the pretty Pucelle (virgin) after many years of Crusade… Aziyadé, Étienne and with Louis, simply magnificent. The emotions that this tasting brought us, literally transported us, 1987 was also the last year before the retirement of our then so much so that this powerful shared moment will remain régisseur, Jean Virot, son of the illustrious François Virot who engraved for a long time in our memory. Is it simply the wine built the estate with my great grandfather Joseph in the 20s or is it rather this rare moment of sharing with friends and and 30s. In 1987, the work of the vineyard was still marked family? by the need to produce the amount required to make ends meet. This vintage is 3 years before our first trials of biody- namic farming and 9 years before the full conversion. What a contrast with Burgundy nowadays! Yet all this was only Brice, Valérie, Achille, Aziyadé de La Morandière thirty-one years ago. Étienne, Louis de Montille 6 7 1947 — 1979 1970 Generous harvest, wines are delicate and elegant Vintages without depth however. Lots of coulure and millerandage (poor fruit set). 1971 The summer was marked by heavy heat and a succession of storms (19 August), many of them hail-bearing (insurers very nearly shut up shop when it was time to settle). A small, very ripe harvest, with powerful aromas After a harsh winter, mild and mild spring allows 1972 early budding. The months of May and June are cold and flowering is late. Summer alternates between warm periods and wet periods. The harvest ban is declared on Octo- ber 5th under ideal conditions. The quantities are generous and the acidity very high. 1973 Very pure vintage, wines are long, deep and elegant. A particularly difficult year, with alternating epi- 1974 sodes fresh and wet then hot and dry. The season Great vintage, the earliest harvest. also experienced periods of frost and hail, affecting flowering 1947 and therefore quantities. Selling is no exception and happens in “terrible” weather conditions. A good vintage, with clean, straight and elegant 1949 wines. Many wines of this vintage have long since The 1975 vintage is the worse of the Côte d'Or since disappeared. Few tasting references. 1975 1968. The sad end of a rainy season has produced red and white sharply decayed (botytis) and unripe. Many Abundant harvest, racy wines, pleasant and some- winemakers decided to downgrade their wines or even in 1950 times excellent. extreme case not to even harvest them! Very good vintage, in line with 1949. “May be the earliest vintage of the century”. Har- 1953 1976 vesting begins in the first days of September. This year is characterized by a long drought (from April to Septem- Abundant harvest, excellent wines with body and ber). Strong wines, sometimes difficult to understand. Some 1955 finesse. evolve very slowly and seem to be able to age forever. Big harvest, a lot of fun in their youth. In strong contrast with the previous year, this vin- 1959 1977 tage is again difficult and particularly wet and very fresh. It rained much of the season, included during the Nice bottles overall with a nice balance. Big har- harvest. The level of maturity is lower than usual. 1961 vest, a lot of fun in their youth. Nice bottles overall with a nice balance. Difficult flowering (coulure, millerandage, giving a 1978 poor fruit set) produced a small, very concentrated Beautiful harvest, elegant year, fine and full-bodied harvest; fairly rigid wines with great ageing potential and a 1962 wines. lovely bouquet. Remarkable year. An abundant year, with particularly ripe, healthy 1964 1979 fruit. Very good balance and good ageing capacity. 1966 Generous yields, splendid wines! A small, very concentrated harvest, with well- 1969 balanced wines and good ageing potential. 8 9 YEARS 1984 Normal fruit set, but difficult flowering (mid-June to mid-July) with substantial “millerandage” (shot 1980 berries). As a result, harvest volume was lower than average. After a fine summer, followed by a difficult month of Sep- tember, the harvest took place mainly in good weather. This allowed the best winemakers to produce fresh, perfumed wines, with a certain liveliness favourable to good ageing. Harvest from 4 to 15 October. 1985 The winter's particularly tough weather condi- tions and heavy localised spring frosts produced a harvest that was irregular in terms of volume. In Puligny- Montrachet, frost damage was limited. Fortunately, late flowering was offset by the high heat of the summer and autumn, with long, intense exposure to light. Exceptional conditions for a harvest starting on 26 September and ending 10 October. A frequently very cool spring, with late and diffi- 1986 A fairly late budburst was offset by very rapid 1980 cult flowering. Correct summer. Harvest around flowering, encouraged by warm, dry weather. mid-October in fairly difficult conditions (damp, deteriora- Apart from some rain around 15 August and 15 September, tion in health of grapes). Very average quality, though correct the sun predominated until the end of the harvest. The white wines harvested late. wines provide a very charming first impression. They are fruity, perfectly balanced and rich, with good ageing poten- tial – already marking 1986 as a very good vintage. Harvest from 26 September to 8 October. Spring frost at end-April (damage in the village 1981 appellations and regional AOC), with an often cool, rainy spring and summer; good weather starting at end- July. Small harvest (frost, “millerandage”) and average quality 1987 Slow, difficult budburst. Full flowering came only due to heavy equinoctial rains. in the last days of June, under conditions that were still difficult, engendering “coulure” and “millerandage” (poor fruit set) in many parcels. The “véraison” (change in grape colour) began only around 10 August.
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