Vintages “Mature White Burgundy Inhabits a Different World from the Young Wines We Are Increasingly Accustomed to Drinking

1947 — 2018 Vintages “Mature white Burgundy inhabits a different world from the young wines we are increasingly accustomed to drinking. It is a world of depth and mellow, assured intensity. Think of a concerto for strings. Young white Burgundy is a violin – it can display impressive virtuosity but it lacks range. For that, you need the viola, the cello and the double bass. This – call it resonance, or gravitas – is what properly aged white Burgundy delivers.”

Guy Seddon suite p.31 suite p.31

Novembre 2016 Tasting Dare we say it: there is always an apprehension when opening A PUCELLE 1987 WITH THE FAMILY an old bottle. The expectations are high as old vintages offer a fantastic aromatic display, very different from the newer vintages, whatever their quality. At the same time, we all know that after so many years, there are no such things as good or bad vintages. Only good and “not so good” bottles. The 87 vintage was not particularly illustrious. It was a cold year, maturity was very late and we started harvesting on October 1st. The fact remains that tasting a Pucelles 1987 is rare, and tonight our expectations have reached the pinnacle.

We delicately pour the wine into the Zalto glasses and we enter into a silent meditation, transported by the nose slowly opening up, then more and more quickly as we swirl the wine in our glasses. Achille immediately notices ripe mirabelles (small yellow plums). The aromas are delivered one after the other. First honey, then fresh walnut and almond. Aziyadé then discovers notes of thyme or more precisely infusion based on thyme: subtle, delicate and elegant.

On the palate, the texture of the wine feels incredibly silky For some time now, I have been searching for the right occa- and concentrated. Louis rightly notes the remarkable balance sion to share an older vintage. It had to be the right time, with of a wine one and a half time older than him. As years go by, the right people and at the right place to make our tribute both alcohol and acidity reduce, yet each constituent responds complete. Valérie, my wife, Achille and Aziyadé, my son and today with subtlety and elegance. Notes of quince are present my daughter are gathered here, in Puligny, this evening. We on the palate and Étienne mentions sensations of wet stone, are also hosting Étienne de Montille and his son Louis for almost like those of a Riesling. Achille finds spicy hint of dinner as I wanted us to share this experience together. I went white pepper. We finally all agree on the delicate presence of to the cellar and picked up a bottle a little at random: it was another herbal tea: a star anise. a Pucelles 1987. Valérie arrives a little after the beginning of the tasting so While my son Achille gently pulls the cork out, we are all star- her first reaction is on the colour: amber, towards red-brown. ing at the bottle: 1987. Already 31 years ago! This was the year It reminded me of a gem similar to the yellow emerald: the Etienne came up to me at Sciences Po: “I know you're from beryl. I wonder why we have not noticed the colour earlier. Puligny. I am from Volnay’’. We have remained close ever since. Maybe because each one of us knows that an old vintage could In 1987, the Domaine was run by our uncle Vincent with his simply be beautiful while having that dark aspect which, on cheeky smile and an often mischievous look. There was no one a more recent vintage would be a fatal sign… quite like him to tell the story of the Grands Crus of Puligny, especially that very moment when the Chevalier (knight) meets This Pucelle 1987 was, this evening, with Valérie, Achille, the pretty Pucelle (virgin) after many years of Crusade… Aziyadé, Étienne and with Louis, simply magnificent. The emotions that this tasting brought us, literally transported us, 1987 was also the last year before the retirement of our then so much so that this powerful shared moment will remain régisseur, Jean Virot, son of the illustrious François Virot who engraved for a long time in our memory. Is it simply the wine built the estate with my great grandfather Joseph in the 20s or is it rather this rare moment of sharing with friends and and 30s. In 1987, the work of the vineyard was still marked family? by the need to produce the amount required to make ends meet. This vintage is 3 years before our first trials of biodynamic farming and 9 years before the full conversion. What a contrast with Burgundy nowadays! Yet all this was only Brice, Valérie, Achille, Aziyadé de La Morandière thirty-one years ago. Étienne, Louis de Montille

6 7 1947 — 1979 1970 Generous harvest, wines are delicate and elegant Vintages without depth however. Lots of coulure and millerandage (poor fruit set). 1971 The summer was marked by heavy heat and a succession of storms (19 August), many of them hail-bearing (insurers very nearly shut up shop when it was time to settle). A small, very ripe harvest, with powerful aromas

After a harsh winter, mild and mild spring allows 1972 early budding. The months of May and June are cold and flowering is late. Summer alternates between warm periods and wet periods. The harvest ban is declared on Octo- ber 5th under ideal conditions. The quantities are generous and the acidity very high. 1973 Very pure vintage, wines are long, deep and elegant.

A particularly difficult year, with alternating epi- 1974 sodes fresh and wet then hot and dry. The season Great vintage, the earliest harvest. also experienced periods of frost and hail, affecting flowering 1947 and therefore quantities. Selling is no exception and happens in “terrible” weather conditions. A good vintage, with clean, straight and elegant 1949 wines. Many wines of this vintage have long since The 1975 vintage is the worse of the Côte d'Or since disappeared. Few tasting references. 1975 1968. The sad end of a rainy season has produced red and white sharply decayed (botytis) and unripe. Many Abundant harvest, racy wines, pleasant and some- winemakers decided to downgrade their wines or even in 1950 times excellent. extreme case not to even harvest them!

Very good vintage, in line with 1949. “May be the earliest vintage of the century”. Har- 1953 1976 vesting begins in the first days of September. This year is characterized by a long drought (from April to Septem- Abundant harvest, excellent wines with body and ber). Strong wines, sometimes difficult to understand. Some 1955 finesse. evolve very slowly and seem to be able to age forever.

Big harvest, a lot of fun in their youth. In strong contrast with the previous year, this vin- 1959 1977 tage is again difficult and particularly wet and very fresh. It rained much of the season, included during the Nice bottles overall with a nice balance. Big har- harvest. The level of maturity is lower than usual. 1961 vest, a lot of fun in their youth. Nice bottles overall with a nice balance. Difficult flowering (coulure, millerandage, giving a 1978 poor fruit set) produced a small, very concentrated Beautiful harvest, elegant year, fine and full-bodied harvest; fairly rigid wines with great ageing potential and a 1962 wines. lovely bouquet.

Remarkable year. An abundant year, with particularly ripe, healthy 1964 1979 fruit. Very good balance and good ageing capacity. 1966 Generous yields, splendid wines!

A small, very concentrated harvest, with well- 1969 balanced wines and good ageing potential.

8 9 YEARS 1984 Normal fruit set, but difficult flowering (mid-June to mid-July) with substantial “millerandage” (shot 1980 berries). As a result, harvest volume was lower than average. After a fine summer, followed by a difficult month of Sep- tember, the harvest took place mainly in good weather. This allowed the best winemakers to produce fresh, perfumed wines, with a certain liveliness favourable to good ageing. Harvest from 4 to 15 October.

1985 The winter's particularly tough weather conditions and heavy localised spring frosts produced a harvest that was irregular in terms of volume. In Puligny- Montrachet, frost damage was limited. Fortunately, late flowering was offset by the high heat of the summer and autumn, with long, intense exposure to light. Exceptional conditions for a harvest starting on 26 September and ending 10 October.

A frequently very cool spring, with late and diffi- 1986 A fairly late budburst was offset by very rapid 1980 cult flowering. Correct summer. Harvest around flowering, encouraged by warm, dry weather. mid-October in fairly difficult conditions (damp, deteriora- Apart from some rain around 15 August and 15 September, tion in health of grapes). Very average quality, though correct the sun predominated until the end of the harvest. The white wines harvested late. wines provide a very charming first impression. They are fruity, perfectly balanced and rich, with good ageing potential – already marking 1986 as a very good vintage. Harvest from 26 September to 8 October. Spring frost at end-April (damage in the village 1981 appellations and regional AOC), with an often cool, rainy spring and summer; good weather starting at end- July. Small harvest (frost, “millerandage”) and average quality 1987 Slow, difficult budburst. Full flowering came only due to heavy equinoctial rains. in the last days of June, under conditions that were still difficult, engendering “coulure” and “millerandage” (poor fruit set) in many parcels. The “véraison” (change in grape colour) began only around 10 August. Fortunately, the good Spared by frost, enjoying excellent flowering weather in September and at the start of October allowed an 1982 conditions, and affected by hail, Burgundy saw acceleration in ripening and good harvesting conditions. The an exceptional fruit set in 1982. The summer's favourable wines – low in quantity – are fine, with well-marked terroirs weather conditions were crowned by September's remarkable and good acidity that guarantees ageing. Harvest from 1 to sunshine. These circumstances led to an early harvest of ripe 12 October. grapes concentrated in sugar. With abundant volume, Nature offset 1981's low yield. The white wines were particularly rich and elegant, with a lovely bouquet and considerable class. Rapid budburst in the second half of April, though Harvest from 20 to 30 September. 1988 May saw more disruptive conditions. Fortunately, June enabled good leaf development and excellent flowering. A very fine summer allowed an early “véraison” (change in After an exceptionally fine, dry summer, followed grape colour) and good ripening. The harvest began in good 1983 by some rain at the start of September, the harvest weather, but then became difficult under rainy conditions. was carried out under very good, warm weather conditions. The wines are elegant, very fine and surprising with their The grapes finished ripening perfectly, with a strong concen- austerity on ageing. tration of juice. The whites were very powerful, typical of great Burgundies. Harvest from 29 September to 8 October.

10 11 1989 A warm and very sunny year. There was a bit YEARS of “coulure” (poor fruit set) with the Chardon- nay flowering, limiting production to a level that allowed 1990 excellent ripening. An early harvest, from 15 to 23 September, produced rich, well-balanced musts from very healthy grapes.

—

1990 As in 1989, 1990 was characterised by early growth due to exceptional climatic conditions, comparable to 1941, 1948 and 1961. Winter was very mild and spring was rainy. Vegetation developed quickly, and the first blossoms appeared on 21 May in the Clavoillon vineyard. The humid and changeable weather during the flowering period brought problems such as “coulure” and “millerandange” (poor fruit set), reducing a harvest that had appeared to be abundant. Thanks to warm, dry conditions in July and August, the vines benefited from some hundred hours of sunshine more than the average of the previous fourty years. The harvest at Domaine Leflaive started on 19 September. An excellent harvest of healthy grapes with natural degrees of between 12.5° and 14° was brought in. The acidity, which was even higher than in 1985, gave the wines exceptional balance, and incomparable richness and fruitiness. A classic wine for long bottle ageing, already showing aromas of honey. One of the great vintages of Domaine Leflaive since 1978.

1991 Weather conditions were very much in contrast throughout the whole of the Burgundian vineyard. After three years of mild winters, the winter snow in 1990-91 was very beneficial. The mild, rainy spring allowed early budburst, thanks to an abrupt rise in temperatures in March. A light frost on 24 April, which at the Domaine affected part of the Bourgognes and the village appellation parcels, then blocked the vegetation. Flowering stretched from mid-June to the start of July.

12 13 Following a dry, sunny summer, storms broke out in August, 1994 From April to August, all the right conditions bringing beneficial rainfall so that ripening developed combined to ensure the vines' harmonious devel- favourably. opment; for Chardonnay, the first flowers appeared on 1 June. However, at the beginning of July, hail in Puligny-Montrachet Harvesting at the Domaine started only on 30 September, damaged part of the harvest. lasting until 7 October (Chevalier on the 4th under sunny conditions; the previous week had been very rainy throughout The month continued with a very hot, sunny spell, favour- the Côte de Beaune, 100 mm). Thanks to this week of sunny able to an excellent change in the colour of the grapes. This harvesting and a large team (90 people), the harvest lasted advance in ripening enabled the accumulation of sugars in the only eight days. Excellent concentration (natural degrees of grape berries, leading to a very ripe harvest in mid-September. 12.5-13) and a small, concentrated harvest characterised the During this month the weather was unpredictable and damp, 1991 vintage. with the development of several patches of noble rot. The harvest began on Monday 19 September at Domaine Leflaive. The very ripe grands crus were harvested from 1992 Weather conditions from November to March the start, in order to preserve the wines' balance, freshness were characterised by a period of intense drought. and ageing potential. High temperatures during the vegetative period and low rain- The Villages and Bourgognes, harvested at the end, benefited fall enabled rapid vegetation growth. from sunshine and excellent concentration. The wines are charming and tender, with racy aromas of white fruit and Very early flowering occurred during the last days of May. Up honey. This is a vintage to enjoy in its youth, but with suffi- till the harvest, the vines enjoyed weather favourable to their cient balance to wait for it to age. development. A bit of fine rainfall at the end of August was very beneficial, offsetting the first signs of drought. These wines should be opened before the 1990s, 1992s and 1993s. The harvest began at the Domaine on 17 September: ripe grapes were harvested in sunshine, with average natural degrees of 14° in all parcels. Following a very mild winter and a rainy spring, The earliness of the harvest was similar to that of the 1989 1995 flowering for Chardonnay was early at the begin- and 1990 vintages. ning of June. Cool temperatures at that time caused partial flowering and low yields (20-25 hl/ha). The fine weather and heat of the summer made up for the The vines' vegetative dormancy period from 1993 spring delay, enabling good ripening in August & September. October to March was characterised by fairly mild Given the small volumes involved, the harvest went very temperatures, with rainfall higher than the seasonal norms. quickly, starting on 25 September and continuing in sunshine From April to July, the weather remained mild. for five days. The summer was hot from July to mid-August. Starting in The cool nights preserved the healthy state of the grapes. The September the weather cooled down, with unpredictable wines are structured, solid and well constituted, with excep- sunshine. The vegetative cycle, particularly for Chardonnay, tional aromatic intensity. They will need waiting for, because was longer than usual with later ripening. Very early flowering the 1995 vintage is definitely among those Burgundian vin- started on 1st June. The year was marked by heavy attacks of tages with great wines for ageing. mildew between 15 June and 15 July. At the start of September beneficial rainfall unblocked ripening. 1996 Burgundy enjoyed exceptional weather conditions The harvest at Domaine Leflaive took place from 20 to 28 in 1996. September: earlier than in 1991, but later than in 1989 and 1990. It was a dry year which, at the beginning of June, caused a The cool nights prevented the development of botrytis. The burst in the vegetation. From 7 to 12 June, particularly short wines came into balance following the highly active malolactic flowering enabled very homogeneous ripening of the grape fermentation between June and September 1994. berries. The change of colour in the grapes started on 30 July, These wines are very typical of Puligny-Montrachet's terroir: with ripening evolving slowly due to cool temperatures. finesse, freshness, purity, firmness and mineral tones. At the beginning of September, the north wind extended this The 1993s fall within the tradition of wines for ageing. period of cool weather, explaining the perfect, healthy state of the harvest.

14 15 The harvest began on 29 September; the vinification of the 1999 The winter of 1998-99 was on the whole a mild wines was marked by long fermentation and an acidity level one, albeit with some unsettled periods. Spring superior to that of the preceding vintages. was more extreme, with temperatures often above average. The 1996s are wines that are both powerful and elegant, com- Budburst was early, but was halted by a cold spell in mid- plex and harmonious. April (though there was no frost). As with 1995, the 1996 vintage will improve further over time. The end of April and the beginning of May were warm and the vines started growing quickly. May was dominated by stormy weather (a blend of heat and humidity), which encouraged mildew. Fortunately, we were able to treat the vines 1997 : September with a smile! 1997 regularly so that the disease did not have any lasting effect After an exceptionally mild, dry period in March on the harvest. Very early, rapid and homogenous flowering and April, vegetal growth was hit by the spring frosts. The indicated that harvesting would begin in mid-September. 1997 vintage was characterised by curious swings between Over the summer, temperatures were generally high and the weather that was drier and hotter than usual and periods of grapes ripened smoothly. extreme cold and damp. Summer finally appeared at the end of July and finished in grand style in September, with lovely Harvesting took place between 18 and 26 September. It was a warm weather and blue skies. healthy harvest, finishing without any problems. The wines are well balanced and refined, with good structure, purity The harvest took place between 15 and 21 September under and mineral character. They should be ready to taste after summery sunshine. four or five years, but will improve further with age while Not surprisingly, the natural alcohol degree levels were retaining their youthful character for quite a few years. They superb. The balance in the wines from the 1997 vintage can be compared to the 1979 vintage. clearly illustrates the importance of a viticultural approach that respects Nature. —

1998 The 1998 vintage was heavily affected by the frost which damaged the hillside vineyards on 14 April: Chevalier-Montrachet, Folatières and Blagny. The weakened parcels then suffered from several bouts of oidium and on 30 April hail damaged the northern part of the vineyard. Between 9 and 12 August, unusual heat scorched the grapes. Despite this catalogue of difficult and unhealthy problems, the sunny days which preceded the harvest encouraged a rapid concentration in the berries; the ripeness achieved for the harvest ranged from 12 to 14.2 degrees. The harvest took place between 21 and 27 September under sunny skies. This is the eighth year the vines have been cultivated organ- ically, and it is thanks to this that the acidity levels achieved this year produced balanced musts. We have been greatly encouraged by signs that the vines treated biodynamically show greater resistance to disease; as a result, with the 1998 harvest we have opted for this treatment throughout the vineyards.

16 17 YEARS 2000

1947 — 1979 VINTAGES

1947 1949 1950 1953 1955 1959 p.6 p.6 p.6 p.6 p.6 p.6

1961 1962 1964 1966 1969 1970 p.6 p.6 p.6 p.6 p.7 p.7

1971 1973 1978 1979 p.7 p.7 p.7 p.7

YE ARS 1 9 8 0

1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 p.8 p.8 p.8 p.8 p.9 p.9

1986 1987 1988 1989 p.9 p.9 p.9 p.10

January saw several days of heavy frost towards YEARS 1990 2000 the end of the month, within the context of a winter that was mild on the whole. With the start of spring 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 and normal temperatures for the season, budburst occurred p.11 p.11 p.12 p.12 p.13 p.13 at the usual time. 1996 1997 1998 1999 The month of May was definitely a summery one, with tem- p.13 p.14 p.14 p.15 peratures 6°C higher than normal seasonal values. Vegetation proliferated, making the vines sensitive to mildew. Fortu- YEARS 2000 nately, the biodynamic programme established some years ago, vigilance, and regular vineyard treatments made it pos- 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 sible to curb this problem satisfactorily. p.16 p.17 p.17 p.18 p.18 p.19

June was also hot, although much closer to normal. With 2006 2007 2008 2009 scant rainfall, flowering took place early under very good p.20 p.20 p.21 p.22 conditions. July was not nearly as favourable: stormy with very little sunshine and 20 days of rainfall. Fortunately, by this YEARS 2010 time the vines were much less sensitive to inclement weather. Summer returned with August, including a heat wave during 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 the second week. Ripening was off to a good start. p.23 p.24 p.24 p.25 p.25

September began on a cool note, warming up subsequently 2015 2016 2017 2018 although with a few storms. On the whole, however, it was p.26 p.27 p.27 p.28 fine weather until the 25th, making it possible to harvest under good conditions from the 16th to the 23rd. The wines, made from well-ripened grapes, are elegant, with lovely fruity aromas. As maturing progresses, the solid palate is emerging increasingly, giving excellent overall balance.

18 17 History OF THE DOMAINE

Domaine Leflaive has been a family estate since its inception. Coming from a family with a winemaking tradition dating back to 1717, it was Joseph Leflaive who built up the Domaine after 1910.

Today it covers 24 hectares in Puligny-Montrachet with 4.8 hectares of grand crus and 10.8 hectares of premiers crus. Since 2004, a further 20 hectares was added in the Mâconnais. Joseph Leflaive et François Virot Leflaive François Joseph et Vincent Leflaive et Joseph-Régis Leflaive LeflaiveVincent Joseph-Régis et

Domaine Leflaive was a pioneer of biodynamics in Burgundy. Based on the sensitive intelligence of natural phenomena and the harmony of terrestrial and lunar rhythms, biodynamics strictly excludes the use of any chemical and first seeks to foster the life of the soil.

In the cellar, the same philosophy of respect presides Anne-Claude Leflaive over all the winemaking process, in the pure Burgun- Brice de La Morandière dian tradition. The harvest is manual. Fermentations are long, using indigenous yeasts. The vinifications are made in oak barrels in the first year and in stain- less steel vats during a second winter. Human inter- vention is minimal.

16 17 Apart from minor frosts at the end of December 2001 and a 10-day cold spell at end-February, the autumn and winter were very mild (a high of 16° C on 7 January). March was very rainy, with little sunshine. Spring ploughing was delayed until April. The year was marked by strong though temporary variations in temperature, rainfall and sunshine. Within this difficult context, the vines managed all the same to peacefully prepare the harvest. Vegetation growth started very early (end-March), followed by three weeks of stagnation, and then normal evolution in May (no frost) and June (good flowering). July saw some high temperatures, causing a bit of burn on grapes exposed to the sun. A storm on 2 August brought some hail. Damage was limited but required particular precautions at harvest time: careful sorting of the grapes. The ripening process, initially rapid in August, slowed down at the start of September. It was necessary to wait several extra days and the return of more favourable weather, with harvesting from 22 to 29 September. The musts obtained have very good degrees of alcohol and solid acidity, but with a predominance of malic acid. This is a serious vintage of good constitution, with the reserve that will ensure good ageing.

The cold weather came prematurely in autumn 2002 and winter, and the sap subsided early on, so that pruning began under good conditions. Vegetation growth started very early in March. The entire year was dry (less than 500 mm of precipitation over twelve months), and ploughing was carried out with no problems. Cryptogamic diseases were practically absent from the vineyard, which was welcome following three years of pressure from mildew, plus a year's pressure from oidium. Flowering finished in good time in scorching temperatures at end-June, and the grapes developed very quickly. The period from 20 August to 10 September brought humidity. However, in our region water accumulation remained low and without consequences; just a bit of anxiety for the vignerons! The north wind came at just the right time in a clear, bright sky, bringing ripening to perfection in a healthy state and giving ideal balance in the musts. The harvest took place from 19 to 26 September. The 2002 harvest is one of the Domaine's landmark years: excellent structure, elegance, freshness, raciness and balance – qualities that indicate that the 2002 vintage will age well.

16 17 What was most noteworthy in the 2003 vintage The month of August was very rainy for 20 days. Fortunately, 2003 was undeniably the exceptionally early harvest. September was beautifully dry and sunny, perfectly fulfilling We have to go back to 1893 to find one as early as that! its mandate as the month dedicated to quality in Burgundy's wines. For us, the choice of date was determined by one essential element: the end of the scorching hot temperatures that Ripening continued in regular fashion. Chardonnay ripened were highly unfavourable to good harvesting and vinification more slowly than Pinot Noir, requiring a few extra days conditions (right after the rain on 28 August). Tasting the before being harvested. grapes before and during the harvest confirmed our choice. Harvesting took place in Puligny from September 25 to Octo- We therefore harvested from Saturday 30 August to Thurs- ber 3. It was a very ripe, abundant harvest with an excellent day 5 September under very good weather conditions. The sugar/acidity balance. harvest was a quick one since quantity was low (an average of roughly 25 hl/ha). Several factors contributed to this result: - frost on 11 April in the Bourgogne and Puligny-Montrachet Following a rainy April, May began with hot AOCs 2005 weather, causing record vine growth. - hailstorms on 12 June and 20 July - finally, and above all, sunburn on the grapes with southern Summer was marked by alternating hot spells and cool, exposure during several weeks' heatwave in July and August. cloudy periods, though the weather remained dry. The sorting table made it possible to eliminate the grapes that Flowering started early but was interrupted by cool spells, were most heavily hit by the weather conditions, and all par- causing coulure and millerandage (poor and uneven/incom- cels were sorted - from Bourgogne Blanc to Montrachet. plete fruit set) with the Chardonnay grapes. Quality is truly astonishing, with low acidity and high, very A hailstorm on 17 July affected the Chassagne vineyard and consistent sugar content. The small yields contribute signifi- the south of Puligny. cantly to fruit concentration. Fortunately, the good weather that followed remedied the The wines will be rich, generous, and will without doubt be damage, so that the grapes remained healthy. This storm ready to drink early on. spared most of the Domaine's parcels. The harvest took place from 15 to 24 September under excellent weather conditions. Autumn 2003 was mild, while January was very The first vines harvested were those hit by hail on 20 July 2004 damp. February had mixed temperatures, but (Bourgogne and Village appellations). From 17 September on was sunny and dry (a record since 1945). Spring started on there was a north wind, dry weather, stable conditions and lots March 14 with very warm, dry weather (22-24° around the of sunshine. 17th), giving rise to fears of a second consecutive scorching hot summer. Return to normal at end-March. The grapes benefited from this unexpected good fortune, bumping up sugar levels (13°6 on average). The sugar/acidity The vines resumed their usual growth at the beginning of balances were perfect. April. A cool, damp spell followed. In mid-April, growth in vegetation was two weeks behind that of 2003 (a very early The Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard- year) and a few days behind that of normal years. Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet grands crus were harvested on the afternoon of Tuesday 20 September and on the Wed- Vegetal development was slow at end-April and the beginning nesday, fruit days (passage of the moon across the constellation of May, with cool temperatures – especially at night – but of Aries), meaning a very beneficial moment for fruit work. with no frost. Warm weather returned around mid-May, set- ting off an explosion in vegetal growth. At end-May growth Good quantity. Excellent grape maturity quality. Very good was still behind that of 2003, but was advanced compared sugar/acidity ratios (no chaptalisation). with 2001-2002. Harvest balanced and healthy, the first signs of a great vintage The first flowers were observed on June 8. In Puligny flower- in white wines. ing peaked on June 15, ending around June 20-22. The grape bunches grew quickly after a very good fruit set. July was very cool, especially at night. The start of the véraison (grape colour change) was observed at end-July (a normal date).

18 19 In 2005-2006, winter began early, was cold, and In May, temperatures dropped slightly at the start of the 2006 lasted a long time! month, followed by a rainy spell from the 10th to the 16th, and a short dry period from the 17th to the 24th (during full The first frosts occurred in mid-November and, with the flowering). exception of several days at the start of December and in mid-February, continued on a regular basis until 19 March. June saw alternating spells of hot and cold weather. Temperatures plunged to -15° C on 30 December. The period At the start of July temperatures dropped, with damp weather was marked by frequent snow showers, though they didn't between the 8th and the 10th. The heat wave forecast for cover the ground for long or accumulate substantially. The 2007, starting in March-April, never materialised. Weather winter thus registered a hydric deficit. in August was similar to that of July. March was damp, with an accumulation of 136 mm, while The vine's 100-day cycle ended on 27-28th August, with the April had varied weather. harvest date set for 1st September. Ripeness had been reached. May was cool, though disrupted by storms, causing consid- In Puligny, the harvest started on 1st September and ended erable risks of mildew. It wasn't until 8 June that the vines on the 7th. enjoyed the warmth and sunshine favourable to flowering. The vine reached the end of its vegetative cycle, and sugar syn- Lovely summer weather then set in until 31 July. Thanks thesis slowed down. Harvesting in good weather meant the to this, flowering was over in record time and the fruit set vines produced ripe grapes. Alcoholic fermentation is under was precocious. The grapes fattened quickly, and the grape way. The most rapid will be finished on 19th September. bunches were fully formed by 10-12 July. On the other hand, August was damp and cold. September, however, was marvellously sunny and bright, fully justifying Following three years of conversion work, this its reputation as a month of quality. The weather remained 2008 was the first biodynamic vintage. dry, with beautiful days at the high temperatures favourable for excellent grape ripening. The patches of botrytis that had After a fairly mild winter, vegetation appeared in the first started to dev elop in August stabilised. days of April, growing rapidly under an unseasonably strong sun and temperatures ranging from 23°C to 30°C. The harvest ran from 20 to 27 September. Flowering was precocious: by end-May it was completely The Chardonnays, which were very ripe and which could finished. have toppled over quickly into over-ripeness, had to be followed closely and harvested in the correct order. The balance The months of June and July were punctuated regularly of the musts was very good, and fermentation went smoothly. by showers between spells of variable weather. A bit of hail affected the vineyard on 10 June. Initial tastings showed off the wines' highlights, with lots of aromas of fine ripe fruit. August started with cool temperatures for the season, finishing with fine, hot weather which continued in September. Maturing has been problem-free, with the first racking off These were ideal conditions for ripening the grapes. at 11-12 months, and bottling planned for late winter/early spring, as usual. As a result, the harvest started on 9 September and finished on the 14th, all in brilliant sunshine. Yields were slightly over The wines have delivered what they promised: they are fine, 50hl/ha. elegant and nicely ripe, characteristic of their respective terroirs and typically Burgundian. Vinification in the tanks was slow, finishing only at the start of 2008 for the slowest. In the spring, malolactic fermentation was homogeneous. Following a fairly moderate winter, with no pro- The wine is well balanced, while more and more depth and 2007 longed periods of frost beneficial to soil struc- mineral tones are emerging. ture and health, budburst was early, around 20th March. The aromas are fine and well defined, with lots of elegance, Vine growth was rapid – very rapid in April – since the citrus and floral notes. weather was fine and very warm for the season. The month was dry until the 26th, when hail fell on Saint-Aubin, also touching Chevalier-Montrachet, Le Montrachet, Bâtard and Les Pucelles.

20 21 Mild, regular spring weather followed several YEARS 2009 heavy winter frosts, bringing on budburst at the beginning of April. 2010 The month of May was fine and sunny, though not particularly warm. As a result the vegetation grew steadily and the vegetative cycle continued its advance. The first flowers were noted on 22 May and the last on 6 June, with full flowering on 27/28 May. June and July were marked by heavy rains over short spells. August was magnificent, with timely rainfall interrupting long sunny spells and with very hot weather between 13 and 20 August – the finest month of August since 2005. These conditions were very favourable for ripening the grapes and we started the harvest on Saturday 5 September, finishing on the 11th at the end of the morning – with warm, sunny weather throughout the week. The grapes for the Cuvée des Climats du Coeur were harvested on 10 September. The musts – rich, powerful and full of sunshine – were run The 2009-2010 winter was classic overall, but into barrels quickly and were soon bubbling in the cellar. 2010 was marked by a brutal phenomenon on 19 Once fermentation started, it continued and ended by autumn. December: a staggering drop in temperature (-20°C), rising to +10°C on 21 December. Malolactic fermentation had just begun when winter arrived; before winter was over it was completely finished, earlier than January-February had seasonal weather, with the last frosts in 2008. from 9-14 March. Maturing was classic, and following 12 months in cask the April, mild and dry, saw the start of the vegetative period, first racking off took place; bottling should be carried out at with the chillier month of May marking a slowdown in the the end of winter and start of spring 2011. vine's growth. The wines are rich, with lots of fruit and mineral character. The first vine flowers were observed on 6 June, with full flowering around 12-14 June and the end around the 22nd. High temperatures continued until mid-July - the start of a cool — damp spell lasting until the end of August. The weather warmed up again at the beginning of September, while a hailstorm hit the Santenay vineyard on the 12th. In Puligny, the ripest grapes developed a bit of botrytis at that time. The harvest, initially set for 20 September, was brought forward to the 17th. It lasted a week, enjoying a spell of fine dry weather up to the very last day. The musts are showing good balance, with alcoholic fermentation occurring normally. Malolactic fermentation is taking place more slowly, revealing well-defined wines with lovely purity.

The winter of 2010-2011 was marked by snow at 2011 end-November and during December, followed by dry and not particularly cold weather in January and Feb- ruary. In March, after some rainfall at the start of the month, temperatures rose and budburst was noted at end-month.

22 23 The April sun sent temperatures up, while the vines devel- The winter of 2012/13 was long and wet rather oped quickly in a dry atmosphere. 2013 than harsh but there were frosts up until the beginning of April. A lovely month of May enabled flowering under the most favourable auspices, although somewhat prematurely (13-16 The vine began budding timidly in mid-April, two weeks May). June was magnificent, preserving the vintage's sunny, behind the norm. The end of the month and the beginning precocious nature. of May saw a significant amount of rainfall. The soils were saturated and occasionally under water- we saw ducks swim- July was marked by storms as well as temperatures that were ming in the vineyards! chilly for the season. Then from the beginning of August the sun was back along with several very hot days, resulting May remained fresh and wet, with the vines now three weeks in rapid ripening. behind the norm. June seemed more clement in terms of rainfall but everything is relative. The first flowers appeared on The harvest ran from 25 to 31 August, the earliest ever seen 17th June but the good weather only lasted until the night of at Domaine Leflaive. 19th June when there was a strong storm with a lot of rain. Once the wines hummed their way through alcoholic fer- The following days, with mid-flower noted around 21st-24th mentation, malolactic fermentation kept them fizzing June, were also far from ideal for flowering, leading to cou- throughout the winter. The wines have an acid, mineral lure and millerandage. structure and framework showing finesse and elegance. They July saw further storms, notably on 23rd with hail stretching are the very definition of the qualities inherent in each of our from Meursault to Ladoix with Puligny being lightly touched magnificent parcels. too. August however brought excellent conditions for the vine and maturity progressed well. September, where rainfall was still a feature, stayed warm and damp until the end and we After a mild start to winter, there was a change began to harvest on 28th for a period of eight days. 2012 of tune in mid-January, which brought winter at The alcoholic fermentations were long. In the spring, aided its most majestic. The first two weeks of February were icily by the rise in temperatures, the malolactic fermentations got cold, between -15°C and -4°C. going and were finished by the time the summer of 2014 was Winter changed to Spring with a dry and mild March allow- through. During their time in barrel, the wines have gained ing the first buds to appear. We were lulled into predicting an precision. At the beginning of their second winter, they show early vintage once again, the recent experiences of 2011 and a lovely purity, loyal to the terroirs whence they spring. They 2007 still strong in our memories. However, we didn't count have an energetic line based on minerality and acidity which on the cold April rains which really halted the vine's growth. gives them a lovely tension as well as length on the palate. In May, things got going again, finding a more normal pattern, although still a little ahead of the average. Flowering was first noted in the final days of May, with mid-flower on The 2013-2014 was overall lukewarm with high 5th June but extended through until 20th June. This fragile 2014 rainfall until the first days of March. Spring flowering, carried out in poor weather conditions, gave us was throughout a dry and sunny period. In this favourable berries affected by coulure and millerandage. weather, the bud burst started around March 25 and we At the end of June, the sudden rise in temperatures brought started to wonder if 2014 would be another early year. storms and hail (30th June). July followed a similar pattern April started equally dry but temperatures dropped mid with notable humidity. The vineyards were then hit once month and until early may causing the vineyard to slowdown more by hail on 1st August. Thereafter, the sun shone and it's growth. permitted the grapes to reach a good phenolic maturity with a lower sugar level than the last few years. We began to harvest Taking advantage of a summer-like May, the growth resumed on 14th September: the musts were nicely balanced with a it's vigor with the dry weather containing any excess. The very good level of acidity. first flowers are observed on May 22 and the full flower arriv- ing on June 2nd and 3rd in a very warm environment. We have observed the wines closely through their élevage, noting their conservation of good acidity levels and their June remained hot and dry and the vineyard develops at a fast presentation of extraordinary minerality. Despite the overall pace. We are preparing actively for an early vintage. production at the Domaine being reduced by half, the wines On June 28, all these favourable conditions came brutally to show a great number of qualities: minerality, balance, finesse, an end with a hail storm affecting mainly the top of the hill in precision, tension, energy… the northern part of Puligny and more severely the winewards A very great vintage. of Meursault, Monthélie, Volnay, Pommard, Beaune.

24 25 July and early August are unusually humid and fresh for the The winter of 2015-2016 was very mild and season. The vine development slws down. Summer-like con- 2016 dryoverall. There was never a full day of frost ditions resumed in the second part of August and became during the season. very favorable to a good maturation. By early April the growing period was already in progress, The harvest starts on September 10. The alcoholic fermenta- and by mid-April the vine was at the stage where 2 to 3 leaves tion proceed in a very conventional manner until November were present with some beautiful buds. immediately followed by the malolactic fermentations. The However, severe rainfall on the night of the 26th of April last batch finished their fermentation in July. ensued, along with a drop in temperature below zero in the The 2014 wines are vibrant and show a nice minerality signing early hours of the 27th, and a sunny morning. The combina- the best terroirs of Puligny. tion of vine precocity, the humidity and the sun caused “burn- ing” of the buds across the hillside and even more severely on the premiers and the grands crus. The consequence was severe: a loss between 20% and 80% of the harvest. The grapes maturation was exceptionally swift 2015 this year. This will lead us to start the harvest In Montrachet, it was 90% of the buds that were burnt. on August 28. This is the third time in history that we will The very rainy months of May and June that followed favoured begin the harvest in Puligny in August and the second earliest the development of mildew on the weak vines. Luckily the harvest ever (2011 began August 25 and 2003, on August 30). sun arrived on the 21st of June at the beginning of flowering After a flower that went very well, under a bright sun, at the which then occurred very quickly. The sun, the heat and the beginning of June, the vines grew rapidly, helped by a few beautiful weather would then remain until harvest, allowing days of rain fall in the middle of the month. July brought us to obtain beautiful grapes from those parcels that were not a strong and lasting heat wave in Puligny for most of the as affected. Very beautiful quality but so little! month. Temperatures rose steadily with many days above The harvest begun on the 21st of September. 30°C during the day and often up to 35°C and 36°C. The rainfall of early August re-started the maturation process in Puligny. The Mâcon estate, on the other hand, did not The expectations on the 2017 harvest was high in benefit from the rainfall and berries were a little less fleshy 2017 Burgundy following the 2016 frost that destroyed than Puligny. a large part of last year's harvest. The fact remains that, just before the harvest, the vines were Winter 2016-2017 cold, in line with Burgundy's continental beautiful in both vineyards and in an excellent state of health. climate with alternating frosts and thaws allowing the earth The Domaine team fully anticipated this early harvest and to expand and to other micro-organism to be eliminated. organised a seamless logistical support for the team of over March saw dome very mild temperatures, favouring a fast 70 pickers plus a dozen people in the winery. growth of the vine. However, the temperatures dropped in The harvest began in Puligny in a scorching atmosphere the April 2017 with freezing temperatures late April. This time, first three days. It continued in a cooler environment after a all had anticipated the weather conditions and all vine-grow- slight stormy episode punctuated with a few raindrops ini- ers mobilized at sunrise to light straw fires which allowed the tially announced as more violent and abundant than it even- air to circulate and thereby avoid frost. tually arose. Flowering was early and fast at the end of May. A very hot The yield in Puligny this year is very satisfactory and above and sunny summer settles in with regular showers allow- that of the previous three years. The heat wave during the ing the vine to pursue its development. The last heat wave summer and low rainfall in the spring limited the yield of the occurred at the end of August and caused an acceleration of Premier and Grand Crus while the vineyards at the foot of the the maturity. hill (Bourgogne and Village) have maintained a good perfor- Harvest started on 29th August in the more mature plots mance. In Mâcon, the yield is slightly more modest than that (Folatières, Combettes, Chevalier) and continued after a light of last year as the estate did not benefit from the June rainfall rain on 31st August. The sugar in the must was not too high as Puligny did. and acidities were excellent which will certainly mean very The grape's health was simply spotless this year with no balanced wines after fermentations. trace of botrytis, oïdium or mildew. Maturities across both are accomplished with an excellent degree and a good acidity given the accelerated maturation of the end of August.

26 27 2018 The 2018 harvest has pleasantly surprised us, Beginning dates both in its abundant quantity as well as its excep- of the harvest tionally good quality. 1946 — 2018 The winter of 2017-18 was moderately cold with tempera- 1946 23/09 tures sometimes below freezing in the morning but quickly 1947 13/09 reaching positive numbers in the afternoon. These cool tem- 1948 29/09 1949 30/09 peratures were accompanied by a high humidity, regularly 1950 15/09 covering the vines with a beautiful white coating of snow. 1951 28/10 1952 12/09 March was also a little cool, nature was struggling to awaken. 1953 23/09 1954 7/10 The weather warmed up quickly in the first days of April. 1955 03/10 Within three weeks the all the vineyards in Puligny were 1956 14/10 adorned with a light green veil. Like pupae, the buds in their 1957 01/10 1958 03/10 cotton are transformed: green tip, leaves coming out and first 1959 17/09 leaves spreading. The development was so fast that we were 1960 22/09 1961 25/09 waiting a chill capable of slowing down the vine a little. 1962 08/10 1963 04/10 The good news is that the rains were plentiful in May and 1964 21/09 especially in June. At the beginning of June, the water tables 1965 11/10 1966 26/09 were at their highest and the heat of the day did not allow the 1967 28/09 moisture to settle. This enabled the grape to grow in excep- 1968 01/10 tionally favourable conditions. 1969 06/10 1970 01/10 1971 20/09 It was already very hot by the end of June and the tempera- 1972 05/10 tures between June 26th and the end of August were very 1973 24/09 often well above seasonal norms with maximum tempera- 1974 23/09 1975 27/09 tures exceeding 30°C almost daily. This was only interrupted 1976 07/09 by a good rain on August 13 coming to refresh the ground 1977 03/10 1979 05/10 and gorge the berries. 1980 10/10 1981 28/09 The harvest began on August 26th with radiant and relatively 1 9 8 2 18/09 cool weather. The harvested quantity surprised us consider- 1983 29/09 1984 04/10 ing the scorching summer we had experienced. 1985 30/09 1986 29/09 We welcomed it with all the more pleasure as the berries 1 9 8 7 01/10 tasted well, with a good sugar-acidity balance and health sta- 1988 26/09 1989 15/09 tus, which could not be better. 1990 19/09 1991 30/09 We are looking forward to the end of the fermentations to 1992 17/09 taste these promising 2018s. 1993 20/09 1994 17/09 1995 18/09 1996 21/09 1997 15/09 — 1998 23/09 1999 25/09 2000 16/09 2001 22/09 2002 20/09 2003 30/08 2004 25/09 2005 16/09 2006 20/09 2007 01/09 2008 22/09 2009 05/09 2010 18/09 2011 25/08 2012 14/09 2013 28/09 2014 10/09 2015 28/08 2016 21/09 2017 29/08 2018 26/08

28 29 The vintage comments were mostly written by the successive heads of the Domaine, usually at the time of the vintage release. They therefore require to be put back in the context of the times in which they were written.

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We would like to thank Jean-Claude Wallerand and Allen Meadows for their contribution to some of the 1970’s vintage descriptions that were missing. suite p.2