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Mexico : the Wonderland of the South

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Mexico : the Wonderland of the South CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY ™" ""'"""" ^""'^ F 1 2 1 5 C32 3 1924 020 418 400 The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924020418400 MEXICO THE WONDEELAND OF THE SOUTH •Tl^^>^ THE MACMILLAN COMPANY NEW YORK BOSTON • CHICAGO ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO MACMILLAN & CO., Limited LONDON • BOMBAY CALCUTTA MELBOURNE THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. TORONTO A TEHUANTEPEC BEAUTY, Weaving her elaborate costume, .starelieil head-(lre,ss, and necklace o£ gold MEXICO THE WONDERLAND OF THE SODTH BY W. E. CARSON ILLUSTRATED Weto gotfe THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1909 All rights reserved COPYEIGHT, 1909, By the MACMILLAN COMPANY. Set up and electrotyped. Published October, 1909. J. 8. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. ; PEEFACE Mexico is preeminently a land of picturesqueness, of romance, and of wonderfully strange contrasts. A period of twenty-five years has witnessed a general progress there which might easily have occupied centuries. But this very rapidity of evolution has worked against a com- pleteness of development and has left fragments of the ancient order that give to the country, in patches, the fascinating interest of olden days. The automobile, elec- tric traction, electric light, and the promoter have come the Indian with his hurro, the cargador with his burden, and the old-fashioned village priest have remained. Thus it is that in Mexico the old and the new are everywhere to be seen side by side. It is this strange mixture of the ancient and modern that produces such queer phases of life as exist in Mexico to-day. And it can be truly said, moreover, that no country of Latin America is so full of interest as the land of the Aztecs. With a wonderful past and an equally wonderful present, peopled by an ancient race with strange customs and traditions, it is also a land of magnificent scenery, of superb climates, and amazing natural resources. In the following pages will be found a concise account of my wanderings in Mexico, a description of the Mexican capital and other old cities, of the great haciendas, of the gold and silver mines, of some quaint health resorts, and of my experiences in mountain climbing, tarpon fishing, and ranching. VI PREFACE While dealing with all these subjects I have exerted every effort to make my book a book of human interest. I have tried, in short, to give an accurate pen-picture of Mexico as I saw this wonderful country in journeying from place to place, — the everyday life of the people, the sights and scenes that I witnessed, and the various incidents which marked my travel. During my stay in the Republic I had ample opportuni- ties to observe, in active process, the Americanizing of Mexico, which is destined to have such a far-reaching effect on the country's future. It was also my good fortune to be brought into sympathetic touch with Mexi- can affairs, and to learn much concerning the progress of the people, the policies of President Porfirio Diaz, the conditions of labor and the church, and the great agri- cultural and mining resources of the land. Such, in brief, is a summary of this book, the aim of which is to give a pen-picture fresh, accurate, and inclu- sive of Mexico to-day. CONTENTS I. The Tropics in a "Norther". 1 n. From Orizaba to the Capital 19 III. Mexico City by Night 44 IV. Mexico Past akd Presknt 67 V. The Sights of the Capital 86 VI. Churches and Miracles . 111 VII. The Life of the People . 123 VIII. The Mexican Woman 157 IX. The Foreign Invasion 170 X. The White Man's Burden-bearer 184 XI. Mexico's Great Dictator 198 XII. The Machinery of Government 210 XIII. A Mexican Paradise 219 XIV. The City of the Angels . 235 XV. A Mexican Carlsbad 249 XVI. The Valley of Oaxaca . 258 XVII. Luxurious Life at a Gold Mine 272 XVIII. Christmas at Los Reyes . 287 XIX. Prehistoric Mexico . 300 XX. Life in an Old Mexican Town 314 XXI. In the Crater of Popocatepetl 328 XXII. GUADALA.JARA THE WoNDERFUL 339 XXIIL "The Silver City" . 355 vm CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE XXIV. The Titian at Tzintzontzan 370 XXV. The Isthmus op Tehuantepkc 378 XXVI. Tarpon Fishing at Tampico . 394 XXVII. In Northern Mexico 404 Index 429 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A Tkhuantepec Beauty Frontispiece FACISQ PAGE Map showing Author's Route 1 Mexico's Chiee Seaport 5 A Street in Vera Cruz 12 The Blind Beggar 19 A Typical Peon 23 Mexican Riding Costume 23 A View in Orizaba 30 Wonderful Engineering 33 Watching the Train 39 Mexico's National Drink 42 An Aguadore 42 Calle del Reloj, Mexico City 48 Reminiscent of the Past 53 Calle Cinco de Mayo, Mexico City 60 Ancient Picture Record 71 Hernando Cortes 74 The Emperor Maximilian 82 Cathedral and Plaza, Mexico City 87 The Mexican National Palace 90 Pyramid of the Moon 90 ix X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGB The Aztec Calendar Stone 94 Ancient Aztec Pottery and Statue of the God of War 99 The Paseo de la Eeforma 110 Stone Figures of the God of Fire and the Sad Indian 117 Church at Tepozotlan 120 Church of Guadalupe 124 Typical Mexican Women of the Upper Class . 130 Public School Children 130 "Playing the Bear" 162 The Ancient Race — Types of Mexican Indians . 186 President Diaz 197 Madame Diaz 204 Mexican Statesmen 211 The Rurales 214 The Awkward Squad 214 A "Bit" of Cuernavaca 222 A View from Cuernavaca 227 Aztec Architecture 230 In Old Puebla 238 The Pyramid of Cholula 238 A View of Puebla 246 The Plaza, Oaxaca 257 Tortilla Making 272 Mexican Rebeccas 272 A Valley in the Sierras 282 Within the Ruins of Mitla 282 Ruins of Mitla 312 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XI -• FACING PAOK Ascent of Popocatepetl — View from Halfway House . 330 The Journey's End — On Summit op Popocatepetl . 380 Cathedral and Main Plaza, Guadalajara . 343 An Old Street, Guadalajara 346 Quaint Old Guanajuato 355 A Chamber op Horrors 362 Silver Mining 366 Mexico's Art Treasure — The Titian at Tzintzuntzan 373 The Mexican Tropics 380 The Rocky Road 396 MEXICO: THE WONDERLAl^D OF THE SOUTH CHAPTER I THE TROPICS IN A A LONG line of flat, sandy coast with numerous sand- bars stretching seawards over which the surf was breaking. The land, covered with scrubby bushes and here and there a melancholy group of cocoanut palms, lay forlorn and desolate under the dark sky. Farther off along the coast I could distinguish a long, gray, straggling city, an islet crowned by the time-worn turrets of a white fort, and two great stone jetties branching out from the shore. We were running through a stormy sea in the teeth of a strong head-wind; and this was my first glimpse of Mexico from the deck of a Ward liner in the early hours of a November morning. From New York to Havana and thence into the Gulf of Mexico our voyage had been through seas that were beau- tifully blue, under a cloudless sky; and although it was winter, the air was as balmy as in June. But on the seventh day there came a sudden change. The tropical sky and warmth disappeared; dark clouds veiled the sun, a strong wind began to blow, the leaden-tinged sea was covered with white-caps. Then came a wireless message from Vera Cruz, warning us that a "norther" was playing havoc all along the coast. These "northers" are the winds which at frequent intervals during the winter swoop 2 MEXICO down from the ice-bound regions of the north and harry the Gulf coast shipping. The breakers were dashing and the spray was flying about the narrow harbor entrance, but inside was smooth water. In the old days there was no harbor at Vera Cruz and the only protection from the sea was a low coral reef. Then vessels in the roadstead were obliged to lie with steam up, ready to put out to sea the moment a "norther" began to blow ; collisions were frequent. Within the last few years a fine harbor has been built, at great cost, by S. Pearson & Sons, the English engineers, consisting of a system of great stone jetties which extend round the reef and completely break the force of the sea. Now vessels can lie safely alongside in any weather and discharge directly on to the wharves. Bleak and mournful under the dark November sky, Vera Cruz had yet at closer quarters an extremely pic- turesque, old-world aspect. For about two miles along the shore stretched the city of low, flat-roofed houses; from among them rose the domes and towers of several churches. Conspicuous in the foreground was the new custom-house, a handsome structure of white stone, and not far off were the gray towers of the old cathedral. On a clear day, the distant snow-tipped peak of Orizaba forms a magnificent background for the port, but the famous volcano, when we arrived, was shrouded from view. Lying at the wharves were three American and two English steamers, a big German liner, and three small revenue cruisers, painted light gray, and flying the Mexi- can ensign of red, white and green. A large and cosmo- politan gang of stevedores — Spaniards, Mexicans, Italians, negroes, Chinese, Japanese — were busily loading one of the American ships with bags of coffee and great bunches of green bananas; the German liner was taking in from THE TROPICS IN A "NORTHER" 3 two lighters at once a cargo of bright red dyewood logs.
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