MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

GLIMPSES OF DISTINCTION

MONTE CARLO The Art of Taste showcases the glamorous and elegant lifestyle synonymous with Monte Carlo. With its refined tone and distinctive voice, the publication provides a platform for the finest, most luxurious experiences, and bespoke treasures.

Taste is more than elegance, luxury, quality, excellence and distinction. It’s a timeless sense of harmony and value. Perfection is beauty. There can be no beauty where there is no sense of taste.

MONTE CARLO The Art of Taste is the official magazine for Monaco Private Label, a government company that promotes Monaco internationally. It is delivered to high net-worth Monaco Private Label members from 23 countries and presented at all events.

Monaco is where one comes to dream. It’s an inspirational Principality where anything is possible. MONTE CARLO The Art of Taste aims to inspire our readers by showcasing exceptional personalities who have made this Principality their home and who have achieved international recognition. We meet Christian Garcia, chef to H.S.H. Prince Albert, applaud Michelin Chef Alain Ducasse for his 25 years at Louis XV and celebrate Geoffrey Kent’s 50th anniversary at Abercrombie & Kent, the tailor-made travel brand.

Our artists – the sculptor Blake Ward; milliner David Shilling and aristocratic portrait painter Alexander Talbot Rice – uplift us all. We feature Marco Traverso, whose floral decorations bring a palette of colour to the finest events.

We travel to London and meet Roja Dove, the world’s greatest perfumer, and we feature a plethora of wine writers: Matthew Jukes, Norman Remington and Burgundy oenophile, Anthony Hanson.

Monaco is where I feel most creative. Every moment is special and rewarding. It is a privilege to live here and to meet the extraordinarily gifted people who have so inspired me. I’m delighted to give them a voice in MONTE CARLO The Art of Taste.

Monte Carlo The Art of Taste – www.montecarloartoftaste.com – [email protected] – +33 6 80 86 60 55 A breath of fresh air ESTEEM premium electronic cigarettes offer a fresh alternative to smoking by delivering the nicotine that smokers depend on, while avoiding the harmful smoke.

Instead of burning tobacco, they produce a rich vapour, which resembles cigarette smoke, and tastes like a conventional cigarette.

With no smell or second-hand smoke, former smokers are free to enjoy their pleasures without disturbing those around them.

With the switch to vapour, comes the pleasure of living a healthier lifestyle. Within a fortnight, former smokers can feel renewed. Food and wine tastes better and, with better oxygen, their skin begins to glow again.

Dear Monaco Private Label card holder

It gives me great pleasure to work with Monte Carlo The Art of Taste magazine which is Monaco’s leading English luxury magazine. Images © EdWrightImages

A wide range of white glove privileges await you in the Principality of Monaco. We are dedicated to providing all your lifestyle services to unveil the luxurious experiences, whisper secrets of international boutique venues and divulge bespoke treasures.

We are able to arrange priority access and preferred seating in our fine restaurants, seasonal events in the Principality, accommodation or limousine service.

We also offer an extensive array of business services through sophisticated professional advice.

Monaco Private Label integrates seamlessly with the Monaco Welcome & Business Office and the Monaco Chamber of Economic Development. In addition, Monaco based professional advisors, private banks, asset management firms, real estate and insurance companies as well as multi family offices can provide ongoing support.

VIP Health Care Concierge services are also part of the many Monaco Private Label services.

I am personally looking forward to the challenge of understanding your unique needs and tailoring services to meet your specific requirements.

Best personal regards

ESTEEM premium electronic cigarettes let you live the life you choose.

Michel Bouquier Senior Advisor Département des Finances et de l’Economie Ministère d’Etat Place de la Visitation 98 000 Monaco Work +377 98 98 85 51 www.esteempremium.com Mobile : +33 6 07 93 14 29 How Electronic Cigarettes Work When puffed, an Electronic Cigarette spontaneously converts a liquid solution into a rich vapour. The ‘electronic’ part refers to the battery and heating element. The‘cigarette’ part refers to the rich, flavour-infused vapour which in most cases contains nicotine.

ESTEEM is intended for use by existing smokers aged 18 or over as an alternative to conventional cigarettes. It is not to be used by minors, by pregnant or lactating women or by those with suspected heart conditions. If unsure of use please consult your doctor first. Most ESTEEM products contain nicotine which is a toxic and

Billionaire Sunset Lounge / ©Ed Wright Images Sunset Lounge / ©Ed Wright Billionaire highly addictive substance. contents contents

THE ART OF CELEBRATION – 8 THE ART OF THE PETAL – 38 THE ART OF STYLE – 54 THE ART OF DINING – 72 Culinary Treat for the Elite – Marco Traverso – The Full Shilling – Hats off to David Shilling Hotel Fairmont Monte Carlo Alain Ducasse’s Silver Jubilee Professional Posies

THE ART OF CUISINE – 14 THE ART OF SHAPE – 42 THE ART OF ACQUISITION – 60 THE ART OF SEEKING – 76 The Princely Plate – HSH Prince Albert II’s Acts of Creation – Anthony Hanson showcases Le Prix de Prix – Ian Hall Personal Chef, Christian Garcia Blake Ward The Hospices de Beaune Charity Auction on the Hunt for Truffles

THE ART OF THE VOYAGE – 20 THE ART OF THE SOUL – 46 THE ART OF TALENT – 62 THE ART OF INHERITANCE – 80 Global Buccaneer – Geoffrey Kent The Journey of the Soul – Alexander Talbot Rice In Vino Veritas – Laurent Ponsot Uncorked Inherited Passion – Maison Auer Confectioners since 1820

THE ART OF BIJOU – 26 THE ART OF THE HELPING HAND – 48 THE ART OF THE WORD – 66 THE ART OF DISCERNMENT – 84 Jeweller to the Tsars – Wings of an Angel – Two Great Burgundy Books by Remington Norman The Art of Flavour – Riviera Kitchen Reveals Fabergé Flying Angels Foundation 100 Most Iconic Wine Estates by Matthew Jukes the Finest Riviera Markets

THE ART OF FRAGRANCE – 30 THE ART OF SHINE – 50 THE ART OF JUDGEMENT – 70 THE ART OF ELEGANCE – 92 Scents and Sensibility – Roja Dove Fashion Inspired by The Little Black Book of Champagnes – The Legend That Is… The Oyster Box, Essence of Perfume – Roja Dove Riviera Sunsets – Natalie Theo Matthew Jukes South Africa

CONTRIBUTORS front cover creditations Editor: Juliet Cullinan | Sub-Editor: Caroline Hurry | Project Manager: Olivia Fair Bejewelled head piece: Louis Mariette www.louismariette.com | Diamond embellished neckline: Noir by Debbie Wingham Celina Lafuente de Lavotha & Natalie Theo | Design & Art Direction: Petaldesign | Printed by: GS Printers www.debbiewingham.com | Model: Jasmine Brunner from Premier Model Management | Photography: Josh Carroll Hair: Brendon O’ Sullivan | Makeup: Ariane Poole Ascoma Private Wealth Insurance Ascoma recognises your appre- Ascoma, a fifth generation “raison d’être” is about understanding ciation and need for security Monegasque company will design Bespoke insurance your passion and protecting your of each treasured piece. a tailor-made insurance solution for private assets. your international collection offering You will be guided by a dedicated the best cover at the best prices. solutions for The expertise of Ascoma Private consultant schooled in insurance Wealth Insurance lies in fine art, and well informed in the value of A knowledgeable insurance broker exclusive properties, racehorses, each artwork. While your assets with an equal passion and where luxury motorcars, super yachts, may be enjoyed globally, your confidentiality is a key value. exceptional assets helicopters and private jets. records are held in the strictest confidence in Monaco.

more than just insurance

A knowledgeable insurance broker with an equal passion and where confidentiality is a key value. © images Shutterstock MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Please can you resupply this image in a larger format

Culinary Treat for the Elite

At a silver jubilee fit for the global king of haute cuisine, 300 Michelin stars and 240 chefs merged at Monaco’s Louis XV at the Hôtel de Paris to celebrate Alain Ducasse. The invitation included a gala dinner, cocktail press conference in the Monte Carlo Opera house and a brunch at the Monte Carlo Bay hotel. JULIET CULLINAN shares the experience with us.

8 culinary treat for the elite © images REALIS MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Arguably the world’s greatest living When Ducasse, aged 30, was much local, home-grown food as Nowhere was this philosophy chef – certainly the most revered asked to take over the Louis XV in you can… being a chef, I can assure more apparent than at The Monte chef of French haute cuisine – Alain 1987, he signed a contract agreeing you that ordering ingredients from Carlo Salle des Etoiles, which had Ducasse has amassed 19 Michelin to be fired if he did not win three the world’s most distant corners is been transformed into a traditional stars, a restaurant empire that Michelin stars within four years, an unwise; nor does it qualify you as vegetable market and kitchen for stretches from Tokyo to Las Vegas and act of bravura, indeed. He ended the occasion. A freshly laid grass a formidable public persona. up earning three Michelin stars in carpet led guests up an avenue just 33 months, one of the world’s of statuesque olive trees in large He has cooked for former French youngest chefs ever to do so. Ducasse earned wicker baskets, under an archway president Nicolas Sarkozy and three Michelin stars of greenery to a mini Villandry-styled prepared Prince Albert of Monaco’s With 24 restaurants in his Alain vegetable garden designed and wedding dinner in 2011. Ducasse group, the author of many in just 33 months – one of executed by the Principality florist, books – most recently Nature: Marco Traverso. Russian oligarchs and Japanese Simple, Healthy and Good, 190 youngest chefs ever to do so billionaires practically draw swords Recipes from a French Master Chef To showcase the varieties unique to nab a sought-after seat on the – he is a self-declared anti-globalist, to local Mediterranean suppliers, terrace of the Louis XV, Ducasse’s pressing for the use of regional being creative. Make the most of your humble producers manned flagship restaurant in Monaco, farming produce. He’s been widely local products: Nature is generous striped canopy-covered stalls

© images REALIS overlooking the casino. quoted as advising the use of “as wherever you are.” resplendent with Carmen Miranda- ➤ ➤ © image Pierre Monetta © image Pierre © image Pierre Monetta © image Pierre Monetta © image Pierre

10 the art of celebration the art of celebration 11 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

like displays of shimmering fish, a linguist’s gap through a mutual products, Ducasse discarded and flutes of Pommery Champagne inspired, double-volume dining room For the ordinary mortal, a slice of coloured riots of vegetables, cheeses, dedication to gastronomy. borders and embraced foreign paired Mediterranean ingredients in of La Salle Empire. Baroque frescos, such stardom is expensive. The truffles, breads, and miniature dishes to take pride of place with a visual and gastronomic masterpiece large gold mirrors and gracious flower cheapest item on the menu – a half flowers. There was a sense of What a privilege to meet so many Mediterranean cuisine. that showcased the finest produce arrangements offered an elegant portion of the “Provence Garden freshness, of ripe, rich flavours, culinary leaders and hear their in the Mediterranean. It was the vegetable salad with black truffles, of authenticity in every ingredient. individual perceptions of Ducasse. The stage was transformed into a essence of French professionalism Terre Bormane Taggiasche olive oil, All were internationally acclaimed yet village square with coffee tables, like everything Ducasse dips his It was the essence of French balsamic vinegar and top quality At the press conference held in the only one among them could have boules, chairs, an ice-cream trolley silver spoon into. professionalism like everything salt” is 65€. However Ducasse also magnificent Monaco Opera house hosted an event of this magnitude – and wooden carts laden with tin Ducasse dips his silver spoon into. gives a lot back. Apart from the two with its floor-to-ceiling red velvet Ducasse himself, of course. buckets of fresh flowers. The highlight of the weekend was cookery schools he set up for the curtains and chairs, Ducasse, Jean- the soiree held in honour of HSH public and professionals, his social Louis Masurel, Managing Director By offering the spotlight to 14 The open roof meant guests could Prince Albert and Princess Charlene. understated atmosphere in soft shades enterprise foundation offers training of Monte-Carlo SBM, 240 chefs international chefs cooking their enjoy Monaco’s warm weather and Leading chefs and privileged Monaco of gold, cream and pastels, nothing programmes for would-be chefs from and a handful of translators bridged “a-la-minute” dishes with regional ocean views. Wines from Provence luminaries gathered in the Versailles- that could detract from the food. deprived backgrounds. ◆ ◆ ◆ © images REALIS © image Pierre Monetta © image Pierre Monetta © image Pierre

12 the art of celebration the art of celebration 13 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

the princely plate

As HSH Prince Albert II’s Palace Chef de Cuisine, Christian Garcia creates dishes for dignitaries at gala events and travels the world. JULIET CULLINAN spoke to him about his recipes for success.

Christian Garcia had been Garcia is humble and modest. I glean chefs get excited when the Prince toiling at the famed Hotel de Paris more from his facial expressions than goes to their restaurants but we serve under the tutelage of Alain Ducasse his words. I have to remind myself him every day. And we want to show for five months, when he was offered that those working for Royalty must him what we can do.” a temporary position at the Palace always consider their privacy. in 1987. What are the couple’s favourite Creating exquisite food and wine dishes? Garcia whispers: “I would “I was a shy 23 year old who demands an artistic empathy, one never tell. If you printed it, then thought the experience would driven by dedication to a higher self, chefs and families around the world look good on my CV. I arrived and rather than mere monetary gain. would focus on those dishes and never left,” he recalls. “What started Garcia speaks with sensitivity dinners might no longer inspire as out as a seven-month stint turned and deep emotion. His culinary the Princely couple.” out be the opportunity of a lifetime creations have won him many global and today I can celebrate 25 years accreditations yet his work ethic and Although he admires all cuisine at the Palace. passion shine through. styles, HSH Prince Albert II prefers a medley of healthy French and Italian “I’m just a cook but thanks to my Chatting to Garcia, I discover that Mediterranean dishes. He won’t work, my life has been filled with far from being an easy option, it’s eat endangered species, especially riches,” he enthuses, gratitude challenging to be a Head of State red tuna. Garcia’s daily challenge is showing as he beams at me with chef when even a simple salad is to present innovative creations that a warm smile. important at the Palace. “International delight couple, without involving too ➤ ➤

14 the art of cuisine the art of cuisine 15 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

much sugar or cream. His high art a Monegasque Mediterranean menu on a plate emphasises colour, texture with a twist and often honours the and shape. Princess with traditionally South Occasionally HSH Prince African dishes. Inspired by cuisines from around the world, Garcia designs daily menus Albert II and Princess Charlene The biggest event in the Monaco with two to three starters, main dishes, Palace kitchens is the National Day and desserts. Occasionally HSH will visit the kitchens on November 19 when lunches and Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene to discuss the menu, cocktail receptions serve classic will visit the kitchens to discuss the Monegasque cuisine. menu, vegetables or presentation. vegetables or presentation. The Wedding brought great excite- Garcia carefully selects the finest local ment to the Palace and all of Monaco fish, fruit and vegetables from local celebrated the marriage of the couple. farmers – “with the best ingredients Garcia’s eyes glow at the memory. most of my job is done” – travelling to “This was the best moment for me, my meet all the farmers to select quality greatest happiness, as we worked on ingredients and discuss requirements. The Prince delights in serving the menus and discussed ideas. first fresh peas or mushrooms of HSH Prince Albert II has his own the season and offering his guests He worked for Prince Rainier for vegetable garden. The cows at his bio-dynamically grown, freshly 17 years, and saw the prince and fromagerie provide milk to make harvested, seasonal vegetables and princesses growing up. “When cheese flavoured with fresh herbs, homemade cheeses. Rainier passed away, I felt as though and Garcia accompanies His Serene a member of my own family had died. Highness to his hunting estate in While his visits around the world Everyone in Monaco felt sad. He was Northern France to prepare his venison. inspire him, Garcia likes to present an exceptional man.”

16 the art of cuisine the art of cuisine 17 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Christian Garcia, Palace Chef, Alain offers a 360° view of the French Rivera double-breasted jackets embroidered and the love of food unites us. We are Ducasse, Michelin chef at the Louis XV and the Italian coast, an array of Belle with their name and national flag to the United Nations of Food.” at the Hôtel de Paris, HSH Prince Albert II, Époque and modern architecture, network, build friendships, exchange Paul Bocuse – one of France’s greatest chefs. Fontveille Port, the expansive garden recipes, refine their culinary skills, and In 2007 when this international in remembrance of Princess Grace, meet some of the Heads of State. group of culinary artists visited the with its 400 rose bushes, and huge Principality, Garcia organised a Garcia is filled with enthusiasm for the mountains behind, with large rocks International chefs working for luncheon with Alain Ducasse and Palace and Monaco. “It’s an honour resembling a Cézanne painting. Heads of State meet, swop notes Joël Robuchon, Monaco’s cuisine to cook for the Prince and Princess on fine restaurants, new techniques, gurus, which he describes as “one of Monaco. To work in a beautiful Garcia has travelled to many culinary styles, designs, and of the club’s finest events”. palace every day makes me one of countries, and met Royalty and innovative menus. Garcia has the luckiest chefs in the world. I have several presidents. “My favourite was cultivated relationships that allow “You must be proud to have the best life, the best job and the Nelson Mandela,” he says, showing him to phone ahead to discuss the achieved so much,” I say. Garcia best location. What a privilege! me a picture of himself with South food preferences of other royalty or smiles. “My greatest achievement I give thanks for my good fortune Africa’s former leader on his iPhone. dignitaries visiting Monaco. is my young twins. I hope they every day.” will be proud of me one day.” Garcia is also chairman of “The Club Garcia speaks with pride about I look at the paintings in his It’s easy to see how the Principality des Chefs des Chefs,” a collection all the dignitaries he has met, places office and prints that fall out pleases Garcia. The fortress-styled of chefs to world leaders and royalty. he has visited, and friendships he has of his collection of recipe books. castle overlooks Port Hercule on the Their annual conference is planned built. “We all come from countries Despite the heights this man has expansive Mediterranean Sea where and arranged with great excitement with different religious, cultural and reached working for the Palace, it’s some of the world’s largest yachts down to the finest detail. These value systems, but our common clear he is still deeply touched by and cruise liners dock in Monaco. It famed chefs don the traditional white patois is the language of the gourmet family and friendships. ◆ ◆ ◆

18 the art of cuisine the art of cuisine 19 Global Buccaneer

JULIET CULLINAN talks to Geoffrey Kent, iconic founder of Abercrombie & Kent. A&K are the world’s leading travel experts; they have perfected the art of tailor-made travel over the last 50 years and have recently been voted the Best Worldwide Luxury Tour Operator. © image Harold Lassers © image Harold MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

The world is Geoffrey Kent’s Geoffrey’s early life was polo, polo playground. His travels are instigated and more polo. He was driven by by little more than a casual trace of the next chukka. He captained HRH a finger across the large flat maps The Prince Wales’s team, Windsor in his office. He traverses countries Park, and won World Cup games on and continents with ease and in the every continent. His dreams came consummate style associated with to an abrupt end when an appalling Abercrombie & Kent. accident left him severely injured.

“Most people think of the world as a He believes God intervened, quizzing series of disparate regions. I think of him, “You’ve won every polo it more as one village. Whether I sleep competition - what now?” in a bed or on a jet, I still get the rest, but I can be at the South Pole or Life became his new ‘sport’ with having close encounters with gorillas Abercrombie & Kent spearheading the in the jungle within hours.” momentum. “Back in the early 60s I’d jumped on a motorbike and rode from At Abercrombie & Kent getting to my beloved Kenyan home to South the heart of the action really is that Africa. The adventure was an inspiration.

simple. These world renowned travel © image Naashon Zalk I decided it would be cool to start a specialists organise exceptional, travel company and so in 1962 with an often life-changing ‘experience’ with gusto. Ideas tumble from him, ancient Land Rover and my mother’s holidays in comfort, elegance and each more exciting than the one silver ice bucket Abercrombie & Kent safety. They have insider knowledge before. His competitive streak is was launched.” He chuckles, “50 years of the world’s best secrets, replacing borne out by his success. He loves on it’s a multi-million pound company. stress with indulgence, donkey work to win. He has won! And that’s what businessmen do, isn’t with carefree enjoyment. it? Make money?” “Work is fun. It’s full speed ahead as The successful crave adventure and fast as I can go. It’s not enough to “It hasn’t all been easy. Our farms invaluable privileges such as time and open innovative boutiques, off-the- were appropriated in 1962 making unique experiences. Abercrombie & radar villas and Sanctuary Retreat it a huge financial challenge, but it’s Kent realise those dreams and create lodges, launch ground-breaking been a great 50 years. Hard work but unforgettable memories. companies or manage inventive we’ve had a lot of fun along the way.” private vacations. I need to start each “I was Chairman of the World Travel Geoffrey Kent is a buccaneer. He has day creating, thinking up the next and Tourism Council and have since the global travel market wrapped up new travel first, designing cutting- been initiated into the Travel Hall of with access to the best, including edge voyages and adventures.” Fame along with the leading players sensational private villas and chalets, in the travel world.” knowledgeable travel boutiques “Weeks ago we were launching worldwide, a divine portfolio of new travel projects. Today we’re Abercrombie & Kent celebrated their Sanctuary Retreats and a Lifestyle building a ship and investigating 50th anniversary last year and whilst Club that provides all the trimmings the development of offices and most businessmen would be looking required by celebrity travellers. He is travel boutiques in India, Sao Paulo, back on their achievements, Geoffrey well aware of the future, conscious of Moscow, Shanghai, Hong Kong and is looking 50 years ahead. appealing as much to the rising stars possibly Milan.” and play station generation as to In line with his commitment to those who have already arrived. His energy and fervour are infectious. innovation, he recently launched, I find myself wildly enthusing about Abercrombie & Kent International Life excites Geoffrey. He makes it his ventures, cheering his rallying cry Estates, a real estate division

work for him. He embraces challenge as if at a sports match. targeting the best and most eclectic ➤ ➤ Lassers © image Harold

22 the art of voyage the art of voyage 23 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

private homes in the world and initially on watching people trading planning the next trip, putting in his planes that roared into remote places – it’s boys own stuff, but matching them with the ideal buyers. street-side in Kenya. personal touch, reminding people with style. In the heat of the African sun, while his guests rest, “We don’t just sell property; using why to choose Abercrombie & Kent. Geoffrey’s mind and Blackberry are on the job, defying jet lag, our experience and expertise we Abercrombie & Kent make things creating and designing the adventures of tomorrow. create the perfect match between happen. Private ships in the There isn’t much he hasn’t thought of in spectacular homes and interesting Galapagos or the Antarctic, uber- terms of travel perfection. The Lifestyle I’m reminded of the great explorers and their desire to travellers. I’m just joining the dots,” luxurious Nile cruisers, deluxe cabins Club is his latest brainwave. Catering open up the world. But then I realise that the A&K footprint he says, somewhat modestly. in China, out of this world lodges and to every last whim of his wealthy clients already stretches around the globe, from snow to surf, city bush camps in Africa – they all offer and based on his personal experience, nightspots to Saharan desert. Geoffrey’s five star signature service it takes the likes of Geoffrey to put such around the world. Nothing is too brilliance into action. He tempts me with visits to the Antarctic to watch difficult for this stellar organisation. endearing penguins or walking with elephant in Botswana. Monaco is home to Geoffrey. The He discusses aspirations for a Fund for Apes with a For celebs wanting to holiday Principality makes him feel like a committee of influential conservationists from around the incognito, secure hideaways are a star performer with time to relax. globe. He thinks it would be fun to take Harper Collins up speciality. A&K hold the keys to closely His office has the atmosphere of on their offer of a book and possibly a movie. guarded secrets such as a private a colonial tent. Textured wallpaper island, Isla Simca, in Panama with all and meter high vintage suitcases Geoffrey intrigues and entices. His tanned, lean physique manner of creature comforts minus are the stylish backdrop. Tripod keeps pace with the fittest; his sharp mind can challenge prying eyes and the paparazzi lens. lights perched on travel trunks and the quickest. He likes conquests, is uncompromising, the signature map table convey victorious and triumphant, but essentially Geoffrey is the Geoffrey is incredibly competent, the essence of early travel whilst little Kenyan boy who had a dream. Having exceeded charming and talented. He flies a row of five Ipads flash high tech that dream, he now creates them for those who share his from venue to venue, entertaining, insatiable appetite for life. observing and listening for the Abercrombie & Kent, whisper of a new idea from within, There is nothing Monte Carlo Palace 7, Boulevard des Moulins, Monaco “We offer old-fashioned, 100% always ready to create the latest best reliable advice and answer any thing in travel. His evenings are spent that he hasn’t thought of, questions our clients pose. They want with clients and celebs around the to know where to go and what to do; campfire or at their private homes, perfected or planned. if it’s safe, whether to take their four year old, what’s going to entertain the teenagers. They want expert personal communications. “Monte Carlo is guidance and someone to talk really good. There are people here them through the whole experience. who know how to travel. We’re a tour operator at the top of the tree. We have our own offices His London office is an idiosyncratic on seven continents, we have the mix of old and new with elephants infrastructure, the insight, the local etched on glass windows and TV knowledge, the dedicated staff (more screens offering live links to windows than 2200 in fact), and frankly the on new worlds. From there you can savoir faire to offer unique, under- chat to your guide or captain of the-skin experiences with privileged your Antarctic boat whilst sipping access that other companies just espresso or champagne. can’t muster.” Geoffrey regales me with stories of Geoffrey recently opened 3 A&K travel visiting five countries in 10 days with boutiques in Monaco, Harrods and the 23 flights. His tales are thrillers – finding heart of London’s financial district. The nature in command with gorillas, latter recently won a design innovation crocodiles, monitor lizards, wildebeest, award. Quite an achievement for a boy cheetah and leopards as heroes. Cars whose retail experience was based that lurched and slipped in the rain,

24 the art of voyage the art of voyage 25 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Jeweller to the Tsars

From their imperial creation to Known around the world as jeweller’s art. Peter Carl Fabergé who their post-revolutionary afterlife, one of the most impressive took over his father’s St Petersburg Fabergé Eggs – Easter gifts that works of art ever made, the jewellery business in 1872, so Russia’s last two tsars bestowed on 50 imperial eggs – confections impressed Tsar Alexander III with their wives – have, at various times, of pink enamel, clockwork animals his imagination and understanding represented royal decadence, fetish and golden scrolls – are relics of the Russian soul, that in 1885 the objects of power, a capitalism versus of a lost age, once handled by House of Fabergé was given the title communism cold-war, and the rise of the doomed Romanovs.They are Goldsmith By Special Appointment

Fabergé Lilies of the Valley, 1898: Image courtesy of The FORBES Collection, New York All Rights Reserved Photographer: Joseph Coscia, Jr. 1898: Image courtesy of The FORBES Collection, New York Lilies of the Valley, Fabergé the super-rich oligarchies. regarded as masterpieces of the to the Imperial Crown. ➤ ➤

26 the art of bijou the art of bijou 27 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

The first Fabergé egg was created Peter Carl Fabergé’s world and the the same year and Peter Carl blooming of Russia’s great Silver Age. Fabergé became the world’s most famous jeweller. Le Carnet de Bal, an all-white, classic diamond collection, followed The imperial eggs were Les Fabuleuses and, in July 2011, commissioned every Easter, first by Les Saisons Russes, launched in Tsar Alexander III for his wife, then Paris, evoked the Russian seasons Fabergé craftsmanship, perfected by Today stars likes Diane Kruger, Nicholas II, for his wife and mother. in sapphires, alexandrites, rubies, high technology wizardry. Amber le Bon, Julia Roberts, In 1917, the Russian revolution and diamonds. Daphne Guinness, Kate Hudson, brought a violent end to the Romanov Says Katharina Flohr, Fabergé’s Erin O’Connor, Olivia Palermo, dynasty. The Bolsheviks seized the Creative & Managing Director: Alexandra Richards and Kristin Fabergé workshops and Peter Carl “London’s fashionable crowd have Davis all own Fabergé pieces. Fabergé fled St Petersburg for Europe Peter Carl Fabergé embraced our fine egg pendants, with his family, dying two years later. while the European “Jeunesse Dorée” Fabergé’s retail footprint became the world’s most wear the eggs layered like charms.” encompasses the world’s capitals Then on September 9 2009, under with stand-alone boutiques in new ownership and direction, famous jeweller The most recent contemporary Geneva, London and New York, plus Fabergé relaunched with Les signature Fabergé Fine Jewellery concessions in Hong Kong’s Lane Fabuleuses de Fabergé, unique collection – the sculptural Matelassé Crawford and Harrods in London. compositions of melting coloured Traditional Russian proverbs inspired Les line of 18-carat gold and diamond- gemstones. Three thematic Fameux de Fabergé, a couture collection set rings, earrings and pendants with Fabergé’s treasures are also available collections, Les Fleurs, Les Fables of 12 egg pendants, and Les Favorites de gem-set quilting – evokes heritage via the online flagship boutique and Les Fauves de Fabergé, depicted Fabergé paved the way for a new era of and modernity. Fabergé.com ◆ ◆ ◆

28 the art of bijou the art of bijou 29 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Scents and Sensibility

Perfume evangelist Roja Dove converts JULIET CULLINAN with his intoxicating fusion blends of bespoke fragrances

Perfume is all about evocation, with fresh flowers and nimble features of a Greek god, a legendary nostalgia and powerful emotions. You service that Roja Dove, Perfumer, nose, which can identify 800 scents could say the same about Claridges in holds court. “Claridges is my favourite with a whiff, and a noble bearing that Mayfair, London’s graceful Art Deco hotel. I love that they still vacuum the speaks of a privileged existence. jewel with its distinctive sweeping walls,” he muses, clad in a crisp black staircase, stylish cloakrooms, and shirt bedecked with turquoise flowers “Indeed, I am living the life I was décor that harks back to an era when that grow like ivy over his chest. born to live,” he admits. You can your handshake was your bond and imagine him as this issue of The high teas were de rigeur. The one-time éminence grise at Art of Taste launches, in a full-length Guerlain and now an independent mink coat and cream opera scarf. It is against this stylish ambience with perfumer, Roja Dove, aka the On his many voyages he takes its soft colours, glass vases brimming Emperor of Scent, has the chiselled a mink blanket and pillow. ➤ ➤

the art of fragrance 31 © image roja Dova © image roja MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE © image roja Dova © image roja

We are breakfasting together and fragrance, even if they don’t smell it for he absorbed the transformative Roja discusses the teas, flavours, 20 years. Perfume has the power to powers of aromas, going on to spend and ingredients featured on the transform the ordinary into the magical. all his pocket money on bottles filled menu as though it might be his We are born with a clean slate and with amber essences. latest investment. through our experiences we develop our memories. Smells evoke these So began his life-long passion with You can tell fragrance means memories, releasing both positive and perfume. The best-known stories everything to him. His poised negative emotions,” he says. about perfume speak of love, pronouncements on jasmine, rose, obsession and memory, says Roja. violets, iris and lavender are poetry “Memories, which are so personal, in invocation, conjuring sensual and which affect my clients so gardens, summer fields and Perfume has the power differently, determine the kind of ocean waves. to transform the ordinary scent I will create or select for them. My work fundamentally involves Today like a master alchemist, he into the magical... people, their personalities, their blends unique ingredients to create dreams and aspirations.” his own Roja Parfums scents, which are eagerly awaited by his global The art of this perfumer par excellence clientele, and only currently available Roja’s earliest memory was a good is his ability to provide that most in six hand selected addresses night kiss from his mother. Dressed rarefied of luxuries – your own definitive around the world. in a gold lamé dress, the light scent – as required by his diverse behind her framed her figure like an group of distinguished patrons. “None “Scent says more about a woman aura. As her skin touched his, he would want to wear the same dress as than her clothes, jewellery or make absorbed her scent and beauty in a anyone else, so why should they wear

up. People will remember your unique metamorphosis. From that moment the same perfume?” Dova © image roja

32 the art of fragrance the art of fragrance 33 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE © images roja Dova © images roja © image roja Dova © image roja

Roja begins his quest by asking and gold hues. The reflections of new dimensions in hotels, fashion, symphony of bonhomie. He speaks “’It will do’ will never do.” clients to smell a variety of his Roja shapely crystal, glass, and antique jewellery, entertaining, and his the way he crafts his perfumes – Parfums scented candles and unique bottles arranged on black lacquer Christmas party. His statements are with artistic skill and exactness, Roja’s inspiration to inspire raw ingredients to open doors of shimmer in long mirrors and Roja’s perfectly elucidated with delicious even as he admits that it bothers excellence has manifested in a book understanding to each individual personal choice of the world’s finest bon mots from the Victorian era. him others don’t share his passion – The Essence of Perfume – and olfactive journey. examples of perfume are offered to His mind scans his Rolodex memory, to the same degree. Roja also gives courses, and grants his loyal clientele. finding dates, names and events occasional media interviews, though By evoking memories and isolating faster than Google as he shares “The truth is that many people only he shies away from the attentions of aromatic personal desires, Roja is some of the golden nuggets of really contemplate aromas when a small private groups and parties. able to create something unique his recollections. sommelier presents the wine list. that far surpasses anything Many don’t spend much time on Perfume can be as sensual as produced by the Perfume Houses His motto is simple: I scribble notes, fascinated by the picking out the perfect perfume.” any caress and Roja’s process that offer set recipes. ‘It will do’ will never do. exquisite sentence construction of is an intimate one that demands Europe’s most renowned parfumier. Described by Tom Ford as the exclusivity. In the process of creating Roja coined the phrase Haute I learn that there are fewer perfumers “connoisseur’s connoisseur”, a signature smell, he is actually Parfumerie when he opened the on earth than they are astronauts. I Roja’s finely tuned nostrils and ‘touching people’s dreams’. world’s first in the Urban Retreat on feel honoured to spend time with him. “innovative, directional and of the 5th floor of Harrods: a satin, silk But back to breakfast at Claridges, true quality” fragrances have taken It makes ‘perfect scents’ to me. and velvet haven of Baroque boudoir where Roja has me spellbound with Warm, witty, elegant and innovative, him around the world on global splendour in sumptuous purple, black a myriad of topics ranging from Roja’s lavish personality creates a commissions. His motto is simple: www.rojadove.com

34 the art of fragrance the art of fragrance 35 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

A household name in

Roja Dove Seduces the Senses in The Essence of Perfume households that matter

An understated perfume bottle gives The book focuses on the major peek into his soul, since his eyes are Dotta providing exceptional services for exceptional clients little hint of the fragrant riches perfumes, decade by decade, through the focal point of the photo, not the within, and so Roja Doves’s book the 20th century. This glimpse into the seams of the model’s silk stockings. The Essence of Perfume reveals perfumer’s world takes the reader within its modest cover enough behind the scenes at one of the most The concluding chapter on The Bottle Michel Dotta is one of the great with 23 people of whom eight are Today’s market includes young families gorgeous photos and illustrations to secretive professions on earth, even Makers is a visual feast, as one would names in Monaco property. A multilingual, highly trained realtors. from all over the globe who purchase enrapture the senses. though there are no surprises and no expect – glorious photos of Baccarat Monegasque national, Michel Dotta large apartments for permanent real secrets revealed. and Lalique creations, alternating has been an estate agent since Dotta’s strategy is to ensure the residence. They are moving to the Dove is a living legend in the world between voluptuous, seductive and 1975 and the President of the best advice and a personalized areas of Fontvieille or Saint Roman to of perfume as the owner of the The book is replete with light touches whimsical. It is fitting the book closes Monegasque Real Estate Chamber service. Dotta Real Estate offers a achieve their ideal location. glamorous salon The Roja Dove and fun details that bring the story of with representations of the bottles since 1999. broad selection of properties ranging Haute Parfumerie in the Urban perfume to life in unexpected ways. that enclose the perfume as these are from studios to penthouses to five- Moreover, HSH Prince Albert Retreat in Harrods and the creator the aesthetics that often seduce us He is on the pulse of the action, and bedroomed homes. encourages, through the Strategic of his eponymous uber-luxe line of In Chapter 7, The Houses that before we smell the juice. believes Monaco offers some of the Committee for Monaco’s fragrances, Roja Parfums. Created the Classics, he quite finest residences in Europe, at prices Appeal, the advice of successful lovingly and nostalgically writes The book ends as if a stopper has that compare favourably with the Dotta realtors are ready businessmen, now living in the His career began at the iconic of Balmain, Jean Patou et al., been firmly placed inside a flacon, most expensive in New York, Paris, Principality and working with the house of Guerlain and his and gives us insight into worlds sealing the liquid within, ready at arm’s London or Milan. to work with you to achieve government to develop Monaco’s naming, by Robert Guerlain as not-often seen or talked about length to be opened and savoured. the reality of your dreams infrastructure, while keeping the the “the world’s sole Professeur by perfumistas. These vignettes He is the Chairman of Dotta Real quality of life for residents. de Parfums” combined with the are gathered together in a historic The Essence of Perfume Estate, the leading high-class real impact Dove’s passion for perfume panorama of houses and noses that ISBN: 978 906155490 estate agency in Monaco, which Dotta Real Estate cares for your We all dream about having a large and his creative and curatorial shaped 20th century perfumery. Published by: Black Dog Publishing, offers “exceptional services for every need: from your move, villa on the coast with a boat and a prowess has had on the industry London, UK exceptional clients”. Dotta Real utility service providers (electricity, great view. The truth is that Monaco at large, practically begged he The images are striking. The photo of Recommended Retail Price: £19.95 Estate is organized into several telephone water, building charges), is small, secure and strategically author an authoritative book on Edmond Rudnitska sniffing a flower Available: Online stores and at select divisions such as transactions, maintenance and renovation works placed within Europe and can offer the subject. is sweet, and Dior’s direct gaze is a bookshops world-wide rentals, management and valuations, to the personal staff management. quality accommodation at fair prices.

36 the art of fragrance a household name in households that matter 37 The art of the petal

Professional posies paraded with panache for the fashionable bunch.

“Every event we create becomes a whole episode in our lives. We live and dream it. It takes time to create a fantasy world to inspire and enthuse the lives of the rich and famous. We work through the night, yet the stress, hard work and effort is always rewarded by the look on the faces. It uplifts them and sets the tone for their celebration.”

JULIET CULLINAN meets Marco Traverso, a name synonymous with blooms, blossoms and balls. MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Watching Marco and Karèle for HSH Prince Rainier, the packed with buds with a myriad Traverso in action is both exhausting Princesses and Prince Albert. They of soft ice-cream colours. Yet there and honouring. She is enthusiastic have been the exclusive flower is always a nuance of intimacy, a and proactive, while he is shy suppliers for Alain Ducasse and note of nostalgia or their signature and reserved. Together they create Louis XV for 17 years. Celebrities, teddy bear. merriment for the luminaries with rock stars, fashion models and some flowers, petals, spices, fruit, hearts, of the richest families in the world Flowers are sourced internationally, candles, pearls, garlands, ribbons, smile in their historical photograph bought at the Holland flower auction paper chains, and a ticker tape of collection which showcases the and flown in for the displays that decoration. Karèle’s linen, cushions, who’s who of Monaco, Hollywood, abound in the Principality. crockery and country wares adorn London, Paris and New York, yet tables and gardens of exclusive they are discrete, honourable and The 2012 Christmas trees were villas as they transform the norm professional with a bond of “no covered in toys – bears of varying into summer tea parties, romantic names and no patrol”. colours, textures and designs, dogs locations, children’s spring gardens, and hunting deer. carnivals, gala festivals, mystical hideaways, tailored themes and Marco and Karele Traverso – Les Sapins d’Action Innocence – soirées with imaginative scenes, always a hint of nostalgia or The Annual charity Christmas settings and sites. tree auction at the Hôtel de Paris a signature teddy bear. showcased the diversity of his Monaco is the heart of their designs while at the same time playground, which stretches the raising funds for the protection length of the French Rivera. They Marco Traverso also offers romantic, of children’s innocence as they have adorned the Royal Palace as traditional blooms with a twist. use the internet. In addition to they created floral arrangements The arrangements are large, tightly the large tree for the celebrated

Hôtel, Traverso created unique, Image © Karèle Traverso ornamented trees for Cartier, CREM, Graff and MONAA (Monaco against Autism) adorned with bears or festooned with jewellery, wooden hearts, cinnamon bundles, glass balls, garlands and the large head of a moose. Those that recognised his ignimatic style could also Image © Karèle Traverso trace a trail around Monaco to the Automobile Club and leading Grand Marque shops. Image courtesy Marco Traverso Histoires d’Ours Histoires Traverso Image courtesy Marco

In meeting and understanding the Traversos, I discover the secret of their success. At the foundation of their creative settings is an unspoken pledge, a silent vow, and a mutual promise, which they make to each other. It is the assurance of faith, love and dedication to a union, a marriage, and a company, with the daily promise and commitment that this brings. They are as pure and distinguished as their designs. Their motto should be flaunted with flair.

Image © Karèle Traverso Image © DAVID BORNAIS Image © DAVID Images © Karèle Traverso It is an inspiration to us all. ◆ ◆ ◆

40 the art of the petal the art of the petal 41 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Acts of Creation

Blake Ward confronts the destructive loss of human rights and freedom with his latest figurative sculptures.

JULIET CULLINAN unveils the philosophy behind one of Monaco’s foremost artists.

If art awakens questions in the In four stylistic themes – Traditional “For many years my sole objective viewer’s mind, then it’s working. Blake Figures, Fragments, Re-think and was to make beautiful art. Beauty Ward’s latest figurative work does just Angels – Blake’s pieces “house is still important, but no longer that, inviting us into pro-vocative social the multitude of concepts that my raison d’étre. I’m moved now commentary through the doorways of bombard our daily life” offering to pursue greater harmony with beauty and symmetry. His sculptures fresh perspectives by presenting the world by commenting on speak to the soundless cry of silenced provocative figures exposing the our internal landscape, which is voices around the globe and to the foundation of our human evolution in ultimately responsible for the external

Images © Blake spiritual cries within our souls. all its beauty, sorrow and honour. conditions of the world,” says ➤ ➤

42 the art of shape the art of shape 43 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Blake’s pieces instill an intense is filled with the myriad images of awareness in the viewer of the the external realities created through connection between the world of our television and cyber space, housed internal selves and the external world alongside our spiritual inclinations shaped by those very selves. and sense of soul.

There’s also a nod to the German By opening up spaces within partial artist Stephen De Staebler, who figures, Blake points us toward an reminds us that: “We are all wounded understanding that “parts we cannot survivors, alive but devastated selves, see, which are missing, can be as fragmented, isolated – the condition important as what we do see.” of modern man.” Fascinated by how much our awareness and connection to our internal self, and its affect on the world, has changed over the Blake is a part of the decades, Blake is a part of the artistic heart of Monaco artistic heart of Monaco, where he wishes the arts community was more engaged. “I’d enjoy more interaction with other artists,” he muses, adding that he also loves working in Monte Dedicated to the promotion of Carlo. “The Prince and Principality are human rights, the Re-Think collection very supportive of different media and invites us to reconsider our own good to artists.” Blake, who has carved a niche in the relationships to truth, faith and the Principality since 1990, under the law. Blake starts here with the classic Blake puts his hand in his pocket and patronage of His Serene Highness form of the human figure, and then finds a newly minted Euro coin with Prince Albert II of Monaco. charges these with such provocative the head of Prince Albert II embossed realism that it snaps us awake. on it. “Oh this is nice. Yes, this is Three of Blake’s Traditional Figures lucky. I’ll keep this,” he says. inspire and uplift all who pass the In the Angels collection, Blake begins Heliport beside Princess Grace’s his exploration of “body and soul” May it bring him even better Rose Garden, and in the Jardins as he expands into “an interior” that fortune. ◆ ◆ ◆ des Moulins.

These early sculptures depict the human form with the precision, classicism, realism and idealistic beauty of Rodin’s works, one of Blake’s most respected mentors.

His haunting Fragments series – one-quarter life-sized bronzes – are first honed with exacting detail before Blake disfigures them to create torsos with anonymous faces, missing limbs, and negative shapes. These landmine-inspired, fragmented figures voice the devastating effect of military conflict on civilian society, at the same time offering us the olive

branch of hope and survival. Images © Blake

44 the art of shape MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Portraits, like photographs, capture that instant in history.”

Talbot Rice is not so much interested in capturing likeness, as he is in connecting the human with the spiritual via his art.

“I paint the present, informed by the past with a view to the future,” he says. “My art is not about me but about the subject. My eye is a prism through which the viewer of my work can gain a unique insight into another being.”

Talbot Rice’s fascination with eyes is evident in his painting of Pope Benedict XVI, which captures especially in the light of Pope nuances of Titian, Lucien Freud and expressions of acceptance and joy Benedict’s resignation – the first Velasquez in their delicate colours, that convey the Holy man’s love of in 600 years. layered oils, and skin textures. God. He used the same dimensions for this artwork that Michelangelo “The power of art brings people When I ask him about “taste” he says used on the Sistine Chapel. together. We are all part of creation. this “multilayered concept to do with When I’m painting I’m creating, truth, beauty, spirituality and elegance” Talbot Rice portrays the Pope with capturing the smallest details, is totally subjective. “Everyone has outstretched hands. He trimmed the listening to an amazing intuition their own taste. No one is entitled to THE JOURNEY background of the big canvas so in my heart. My challenge is to find tell you what you should find moving that the viewer focuses on his eyes the sitter in myself since we are all or what food or wine you should enjoy. – windows to the soul – giving him a microcosm of one being. We are Yet we can appreciate elements of a mythical status. one with humanity. truth in all these things by virtue of our humanity and the fellowship of the OF THE SOUL In many portraits the eyes seem to “When I paint I let the greater human spirit. follow you around the room. What energy of a higher power take over makes Talbot Rice’s painting of Pope – a humbling yet thrilling process “As an artist I am more comfortable Benedict exceptional is that both the that unveils a spiritual place of talking about the harmony of form, eyes and the pontiff’s head seem to universal truth. I am almost afraid to psychological focus, light, shadow, follow you. He learned this distinctive breathe in case I spoil the magic of warm and cold colour.” Juliet Cullinan talks to the artist Alexander Talbot Rice technique in Russia as a student what is being created around me. at the Repin Academy of Arts in St Talbot Rice wants to teach art to Petersburg, where he was made “Afterwards, I see the finished young Monegasque children and Honorary Professor, the first non- painting for the first time as a viewer bring artists from Florence or Russia Alexander Talbot Rice has lived an Elizabeth II, Prince Philip, Pope portrait of Pope Benedict XVI to be Russian to receive such an accolade. might – a portrait painted from to the Principality, as he believes extraordinary life. He’s ridden a Benedict XVI, Margaret Thatcher, donated to the Vatican from Monaco. the heart. In this moment I am the literature, music and art is a wonderful horse 500 miles across the desert, and the Duke of Edinburgh, just to The Pope’s eyes capture you from afar audience, perceiver and the viewer,” opportunity for Monaco to be seen as been drugged by bandits, and recited mention a few notables. The nephew of British art historian with their glowing lucidity. His slightly he explains. a centre of culture and learning. the Lord’s Prayer before the Taliban. David Talbot Rice, descendent of bowed head decrees humility and He heals orphans in Afghanistan, The youngest British artist to the great Welsh Prince Lord Rhys equal standing with the viewer. His Talbot Rice describes himself as a It’s all part of his philosophy that helps underprivileged children via his study in Russia, Talbot Rice won of Dinefwr Castle feels a sense of warm smile draws you in and makes contemporary artist painting in a “business enables us to live, while scholarship programme, and co- a scholarship to a Florentine Art intimacy when painting a sitter. “You you feel at one with His Holiness. classical way. Having studied at the art allows us to be”. Talbot Rice is founded the Afghan Rugby Federation. school, where he later carved a glimpse into their hearts. My task Academia di Belle Arti Firenze, his packing in a whole lot of “being” and He has dined at Windsor Castle sculpture for a Florentine church to is to find the sitter’s soul, to portray Talbot Rice also wants to wants portraits display influences of the giving back to the community in his and painted the portraits of Queen pay his rent. Today he is offering his their expressions into a moment. ➤ ➤ to paint the new Pope Francis, great masters like Rembrandt with talented life.

46 the art of the soul the art of the soul 47 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE Images courtesy Flying Angels Foundation

Eagle in the sky Wings Tour Odéon is the largest real construction firms in the Principality Construction began towards the estate project in the Principality of Monaco as well the redevelopment end of 2009 and is scheduled for of Monaco and, at 170m high, it of Fontvieille. completion during the second half of an Angel will be one of the tallest towers in of 2014. Europe. Tour Odéon offers advanced Groupe Marzocco has employed technical development with an air of the skills of an unrivalled team Set back against the mountains sophistication and keeps Monaco in of specialists to ensure that the that frame Monaco, Tour Odéon step with new architectural designs building, furnishing and fittings will be offers quality living to an ever Days before His Holiness, Pope a fatal disease and survival. They in Europe. among the finest in the Principality. expanding domain. It satisfies Benedict XVI retired, he was invited provide free airplane tickets for sick These include the civil engineering an increasing demand for large, to a concert to honour the 84th children, a parent or the doctors The stand alone tall tower will have company Vinci Construction and serviced, apart-ments and brings anniversary of the signing of the performing the life-saving operations. 360 degree views towards the Palace the internationally renowned interior refinement and elegance without Lateran Treaty. His hosts were the on its right and Italy on its left. It will designer and decorator Alberto Pinto. ruining the skyline. Flying Angels Foundation Onlus Flying Angels is supported interna- look down upon the main streets and President, its founders, The Italian tionally by humanitarian associations, beaches and have an outlook over Ambassador to the Holy See and the institutions, foundations and NGOs. the scenic Mediterranean coastline. President of the Italian Republic Giorgio Napolitano. Maestro Zubin FLIGHT, JOURNEY, LIFE are the The Tour Odéon will offer 1 to Metha conducted the Maggio three words which describe the 6-bedroom apartments, a business Musicale Fiorentino orchestra, in extensive contribution by the centre, a wellness area complete Rome on the 4th of February 2013. and sashes. They were all gathered Flying Angels. with a gym, a spa and a swimming in a spiritual moment to appreciate pool and the full range of concierge Set against the sculptured stage, the music composed by Giuseppe Verdi The Flying Angels Foundation thank His services. Groupe Marzocco, a family event was attended by His Holiness and Ludwig van Beethoven. Holiness for his dedication and global owned business with a fine reputation the Pope, dignitaries and cardinals contribution to spiritual followers. for quality residential developments, wearing their black robes, ornate The Flying Angels Foundation saves is responsible for the building. They crosses, matching red or pink caps lives by offering the bridge between www.flyingangelsonlus.org ◆ ◆ ◆ are recognised as one of the leading

48 art of the helping hand eagle in the sky 49 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Images © Celina Lafuente de Lavotha, Freelance Journalist & Photographer – Monaco www.celinaphotogallery.com

THE ART OF SHINE

Natalie Theo is inspired by the soft sunsets over the Riviera and fashion’s love affair with embellishment.

When the light glances off the sunset If you’re going to challenge the The fabrics in this show-stopping laden beaches of Monte Carlo, beguiling beauty of the setting sun collection are handcrafted in such a the turquoise blue waters take on over Monte Carlo, then why not do it way to give them a glass effect so that that magical silvery crystal sheen in a body-sculpting, floor sweeping dresses take on the appearance of and looking back up across the statement of a dress that walks crystal, hot off the furnaces and blown Principality, those sugary pink and hand-in-hand with the salmon pink into life by skilled craftsmen. Only, in caramel buildings seem to merge into hues of the buildings surrounding the the case of Haute Couture there are the fading colours of the evening Port De Palais. After all, you will want no furnaces, but rather the painstaking skyline. Everything starts to sparkle. a vantage point of supremacy, both handiwork of les petits mains. The new fashion season is one of in the style and architectural stakes. opulent texture and an altogether more After an eight-year absence from the Behind every image of beauty, indulgent shine with stand out pieces esteemed Haute Couture calendar, from exquisite clothes to engaging that capture the lightness of this Donatella Versace showed her first artworks, to the setting sun lies a sensory Monégasque mood, as Atelier Versace Couture collection mélange of intricate techniques. Not well as my imagination. at the Ritz Hotel Paris (in July). something that you really give much ➤ ➤

50 the art of shine the art of shine 51 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

we know diamonds

Images: Celina Lafuente de Lavotha, Free Lance Journalist & Photographer – Monaco www.celinaphotogallery.com thought to when your eyes fall on From the warm tones of the Corsetry and tailored jackets, white that must-have dress, for example, surrounding buildings of the Place plumes by the Parisian Atelier like Atelier Versace’s salmon pink Du Palais to the crisp cool whites Maison Lemarié, gold and silver gown. Double silks are printed and of impressive facades tumbling embellishment: every sunset and layered with transparent plastic, down to the water’s edge, it’s to sparkle inspired wardrobe is going and sliced into thin strips that are British couturier Nicholas Oakwell to need a “boy-jacket”. Designed by sculpted along the lines of the body that we look to capture that feeling Giovanni Bedin for WORTH Couture, like silky corsetry. Techniques such of the sun as it glances off the sea the jackets are a play on everything as hand-cut leather and silk chiffon transforming it from an aquamarine that embodies the shape of the lacing, combined with silicone, pearl blue to a shimmering silvery grey. His female form – the essence of the and crystal mesh embellishment, eponymous Haute Couture collection, original couturier, Charles Frederick melt together to create an iridescent inspired by vintage jewellery, was Worth. But for our purposes, simply shimmery quality. The billowing held in London’s Claridge’s Hotel last style this Haute Couture piece with fullness of this Atelier Versace gown year. London’s iconic landmark was your favourite pair of jeans and is set off by the gorgeous structure transformed into a lush and sensual killer-heel gold sandals as dusk falls of the bodice, all held together New York 70’s style penthouse across the Principality, and clothes by rose gold buckles. Perfect for complete with its very own bespoke and the stars all merge into one dazzling. Perfect really for sun-kissed scent – a Chypre: with fresh, sweet, shiny galaxy. inspirations, rose-tinted architecture sensual and leathery notes – created and my imaginings. by Haute Parfumeur Roja Dove. www.thefashionchronicles.com ◆ ◆ ◆

52 the art of shine MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE Images © O Shilling

The Full Shilling

David Shilling’s hats turn heads. Success came easily to David rock star’s wife ordered 24 hats and Shades of Alice in Wonderland spring Shilling, the British-born founding scarves on the second day. to mind as a white rabbit jumps out of father of modern millinery. His is a black top hat. There’s a big giraffe not the tale of the woeful artist, Far from being mere accessories, on one, William Tell’s arrow piercing recognised posthumously. His is Shilling’s hats are bold statements an enormous apple on another. There’s an historic account of international in their own right. The Louvre a piano keyboard, a World Club series acclaim and fortune. He was and is at showcased his creations, as did football, dartboard with darts scoring the forefront of British design. The National Trust, alongside the 180, snooker cue and balls, a picnic works of David Bailey and Cecil hamper containing Champagne glasses In the 70’s Bloomingdales bought his Beaton. Shilling‘s creations span and strawberries … entire collection and Liberty gave him decades. Each is tailor-made for an a blank cheque to design their hats. era, introducing an ingenious idea, a The billionaire milliner captivates On opening, his Marylebone shop pioneering collection that enchants a JULIET CULLINAN. sold its first item before lunch and a new crowd of head turners. ➤ ➤

54 the art of style the art of style 55 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Images courtesy David Shilling

Shilling revived bonnets and taught last year in London and at Tel Aviv His offerings for men included Tailored to match their latest and art. My creations are not for people Shilling’s sculptures grace the women to enjoy the drama and Fashion Week, arguing that “men sequins, netting and feathers. designer suits, Shilling encourages who buy second hand Bentleys. gardens of international benefactors. parade that goes with donning one of Among the collection was the Cock- them to think outside the box. Perfection doesn’t come with a 50% His geometric polished steel shapes his unique pieces, each bearing his A-Doodle-Doo” – a brown straw He admits that his pieces are off sales tag,” he says. are personalised for precise spaces signature diamond hatpin, which can We say: Hat’s off piece topped with a lifelike chicken hideously time consuming and in specific gardens. He’s also written be worn as a brooch. and a few of its eggs nestled in the unpardonably expensive. Shilling’s talent is not limited to a play, Rich Isn’t Easy, a project for to David Shilling. layers of the hat. millinery artworks. His scarves are the future. The Monaco-based designer, “It’s about value nowadays, not price. internationally renowned and he famous for his outlandish sculptural Shilling appeals to the modern man There is a certain cachet about having designs jewellery for men to present “I’m an inventor, I design things,” creations for women, extended that wouldn’t really be equal until they – anyone under the age of Beckham something made for you. My customer to women, though today, many he explains. “My energy was fuelled same extravagant streak to men were free to wear cocktail hats”. – who can afford to pamper himself. commissions his own watches, cars women just buy it for themselves. when my mother was told she had six

56 the art of style the art of style 57 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

the passion to fuel them. Its good to have exotic ideas but you need to put in the hours to make them happen on time,” he says.

He adores living in Monaco. “There is magic here. Civilised people stay here and the quality of life is exceptional. It’s strategically located and is inspiring for artists and designers alike; a terrific base for a worldwide career. Monaco is my home. After 12 years I greet many friends in a few languages before breakfast and enjoy it. When you are a billionaire you can choose where you live. If you have good money and want a choice of lifestyle Monaco is great.” Image courtesy David Shilling We say: Hat’s Off to David Shilling. Images courtesy Shilling family archive collection Images courtesy Shilling family archive Gertrude Shilling wears an Ascot favourite !

months to live. It made me appreciate during the millennium and was asked every day.” to create the 1995 Arts and Culture emblem, by the British Government. His mother, Gertrude, dubbed the Ascot Mascot by the adoring He has impressed the importance British press because of her regular of design upon UN ministers. His Monaco sculpture draws attention to water, our planet’s most precious “Its good to have exotic ideas but resource “Celebrating what we take for granted everyday ... like love, you need to put in the hours to colours and particularly water,” reads a nearby sign quoting him. make them happen on time...” Shilling, who describes a hat as “a glass of champagne for a woman” appearance at the Ascot races Shilling’s influence is widespread. He says a designer’s life is not easy. wearing her son’s extraordinary hats, spearheaded Britain as the design continued to live a full life, until her capital of the world in the 70s, “It’s having a serious commitment to

death of stomach cancer in 1991. inspired the focus on art and design work, realising deadlines and having Images courtesy David Shilling

58 the art of style the art of style 59 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

The wines are made specifically for this famed event. The debut auction was in 1859 and the barrels come under the hammer annually in November. Historically the sale was supported by the local wine-buyers until 2005 when Christie’s opened up the bidding to 500 international wine enthusiasts and companies.

Three jovial days lead up to the sale. Domaines, producers and wine shops open their cellars and bottles to tempt the public. A half marathon, © images Christie’s Images Ltd, 2012 © images Christie’s

© image Christie’s Images Ltd, 2012 © image Christie’s street performers, uncorking competitions and a funfair enhance the spirit of the sale.

Buying a barrel at the Hospices de Beaune sale starts by choosing a wine from the 47 different Cuvées the Hospices created for the auction. There are 14 white wines, and 33 reds, of varying prices.

de Beaune After the auction, Christie’s will have your barrels carefully checked and bottled by one of Burgundy’s greatest merchants in 750 ml, magnums or Anthony Hanson, Master of Wine and Burgundy wine specialist shares secrets about even bigger bottles. A personalised the Hospices de Beaune – the world’s oldest and most famous charity wine auction. label may also be chosen.

All funds generated are donated to the modern hospital and old Every year, during the 3rd weekend The Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel- The original hospital and old age home, to maintain the historic of November, wine lovers from around Dieu de Beaune is one of the finest people’s home rapidly became buildings, museum and vineyards. © image Christie’s Images Ltd, 2012 © image Christie’s the globe visit the cobbled streets of examples of 15th century Gothic known for the warm gifts bestowed Beaune. Situated in the very heart architecture attracting over 400,000 upon it. Guillemette Leverrier Christie’s organises tastings around of France, Beaune is deemed the visitors per year. donated the first generous gift of the world, notably in New York, Hong wine capital of Burgundy. Crowds Beaune vineyards in 1457. From Kong, Paris and London to introduce come to hold their paddle high at this The interior courtyard has a half- then on, generous benefactors the wines. There are plans to host a renowned charity wine sale and to timbered gallery, turrets and its added vineyards from several of tasting in Monaco. toast the new vintage. distinctive glazed, polychrome roof- Burgundy’s most famous hillsides. tiles of red, brown, yellow and green The Domain today covers more The auctioneer welcomes all bids The Duke of Burgundy’s Chancellor, in interlaced designs. From the roofs than 60 hectares, making many in the saleroom prior to the sale, by Nicolas Rolin and his wife, Guigone of the great domaines of Burgundy, of Burgundy’s greatest wines. telephone or internet while Christie’s de Salins, founded the Hospices one can glimpse these tiles from afar. 85% of the land is classified as Live, allows for bidding online. in 1443 to care for the sick and 1st Growth and Great Growth destitute. They built the famous The location of the Chapel was chosen vineyards, in Meursault, Volnay, The 2013 Hospices de Beaune Hôtel-Dieu, with its adjoining to allow the bedridden to attend Mass Corton, Pommard, Beaune, Bâtard- auction will be held on Sunday flamboyant, Gothic courtyard. Today from their beds. The famous polyptych Montrachet, Echezeaux, Mazis- 17th November 2013. it is a museum and patients are cared is of the Last Judgement by the Flemish Chambertin, Clos de la Roche

for in modern buildings. painter Rogier van der Weyden. and Corton-Charlemagne. ➤ ➤ www.hospices-de-beaune.com ◆ ◆ ◆ Images Ltd, 2012 © image Christie’s

60 the art of acquisition the art of acquisition 61 In Vino Veritas

JULIET CULLINAN speaks to Laurent Ponsot, owner of a 141-year-old Burgundian Domaine and vintage super sleuth

Laurent Ponsot, proprietor of bottles of 1959 Dom Pérignon Roche that the domaine did Domaine Ponsot since 1983, is rosé had already fetched $42,350 not start producing until 1934. famous for helping crack the largest apiece – when Ponsot swept in from Another 38 bottles of Ponsot Clos case of wine fraud ever. On the Burgundy to prevent the sale of Saint-Denis were labelled from evening of April 25, 2008, the 97 Ponsot bottles on offer. 1945 through to 1971 when the wine auction house Acker Merrall winery did not make Clos Saint- & Condit were holding a sale at The consignment included a grand Denis until the 1980s. The wines Cru, a New York restaurant – two cru bottle of 1929 Ponsot Clos de la were counterfeits. ➤ ➤ Image courtesy Laurent Ponsot Image courtesy Laurent MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Ponsot’s quest for answers became and everyone has a different palate” flagship Clos de la Roche Cuvée orange if the bottle is subjected a four-year crusade that took him but “every time I taste a wine I realise Vieilles Vignes. It is also here that to extreme temperatures. around the world. He even met with the wonder of the vine.” a white grape – the unfashionable the FBI to solve the case. Aligoté, usually denigrated to poor The global commercialisation, rating Sifting through the diversity of his slopes – makes Morey St Denis 1er and scoring of wines depresses In March last year, wine merchant thoughts and freewheeling beliefs, Cru Clos des Monts Luisants, Ponsot. “It removes the mystique and Rudy Kurniawan was arrested and I discover an iconoclast. Ponsot a unique wine of distinction. beauty of small producers. There are charged with multiple counts of fraud is adventurous, resolute, and 3500 winemakers in Burgundy yet in connection with the attempted passionate about his metier, but Writes wine master Clive Coates: the public only know the grand cru. sale of the bogus Ponsots. When FBI in an elegant, understated way. “I agree with Laurent that 100% Guides, restaurants and shops can’t agents entered Kurniawan’s house, Aligoté makes the best wine. There sell wine unless it has a good score. they discovered a counterfeiting Burgundy is the world’s most unique factory, with bottles being converted wine region with 1250 appellations in to knockoffs and thousands of fake an area 70 km long and one km wide. labels for the most prestigious wines Every parcel of vines is different. from Burgundy and Bordeaux. In reading a wine label, most look at the grape first, but in this famed Imitation being the sincerest form French region, you must examine of flattery is not something Ponsot the Appellation for a glimpse of the would agree with. “Yes, it’s true, flavour you can expect. fakers only copy the finest but it’s an assault on our family’s name and wine-making heritage. If customers don’t think the quality is good Ponsot finds heaven on earth – enough, our reputation is irrevocably damaged,” he explains. below ground level – in the cellar! The Ponsot family from Saint- Romain bought the domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis in 1872. Hippolyte took over from William Ponsot invests dedication and Ponsot and Hippolyte’s grandson, love into his winemaking. “Being

Laurent (59) has been in charge of a winemaker, I’m respectful of the Ponsot Image courtesy Laurent Domaine Ponsot since 1983. diversity of the region,” he says, even as he claims not to understand the Ponsot, who speaks several Côte de Nuits, the place of his birth. is a brilliant complexity and delicacy I yearn for the époque where buyers languages, promotes his wines “You discover a variation of quality about today’s Clos des Monts visited the cellar to discuss each around the globe, yet likes to sit and in adjoining vineyards as though Luisants. It is delicious and unique.” barrel and vintage.” share his wines without preaching. He they were two different regions, like doesn’t just sell his wines like “used two brothers who share genes, yet The Domain Ponsot vineyard “There are so many components to cars” but feels more like a father could not be more different. I see my practises follow the cycle of the making a fine wine. We are all slaves giving away a beloved daughter, the Griotte Chambertin and my Chapelle moon. Ponsot eshews fertiliser, to the grapes. It’s like an orchestra buyer being akin to a prospective Chambertin, planted side by side and pesticides and weed killers. Sulphur where even the triangle is important. son-in-law. He admires the Asian both from Pinot Noir, as an example. is used sparingly. The Domain bottles Mother Nature and every member of approach to wine tasting – “almost a their wine only on the waning moon, the winery contribute. It’s a humbling religious experience”. In the checkerboard of stone-walled with a northerly wind. experience,” he declares. Burgundian vineyards and on the He won’t describe flavours and tastes slopes of Clos de la Roche, old pinot To safeguard quality, a yellow Ponsot finds heaven on earth – below

Image courtesy Laurent Ponsot Image courtesy Laurent as “wine appreciation is subjective noir vines are grown for Ponsot’s spot on the labels turns flashy ground level – in the cellar! ◆ ◆ ◆

64 the art of talent the art of talent 65 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Two great books on Burgundy

The Great Domaines of Burgundy by Remington Norman & Charles Taylor Grand Cru: The Great Wines of Burgundy through the Perspective of its Finest Vineyards by Remington Norman

For many wine lovers (and Grand Cru takes the story a stage awarded the gold medal of the producers) Burgundy represents further with profiles of the region’s German Gastronomic Society and the Holy Grail. From its complex greatest vineyards. Burgundy is ‘hot’ also the André Simon Prize for tapestry of vineyards come many nowadays, as connoisseurs chase the best wine book of its year. His of the world’s most compelling scarce wines from top sources. The second book, Rhône Renaissance, wines – thrilling Pinot Noirs trend away from ‘big’, heavily-oaked, won all the major UK wine-literary and Chardonnays of precision high alcohol wines has led many to prizes: the André Simon Award, Le and refinement, as intellectually revisit Burgundy enticed by its purity Prix du Champagne Lanson and stimulating as they are sensuous. and by its incomparable elegance the Glenfiddich Prize. and subtlety of flavour. Burgundy, however, is a notorious The Great Domaines of Burgundy minefield – where a Village wine Burgundy need not be expensive; ISBN: 978-1-85626-812-7 can be more rewarding than a there is fine wine to be found at Published by Kyle Cathie, London higher-rated Premier Cru, where one every price level. Understanding the RRP: £32.00 Appellation can taste much the same region is greatly facilitated by these as another and where price often two books. The effort involved brings Grand Cru: The Great Wines of bears scant relation to quality. Great lifelong rewards and should be made Burgundy through the Perspective of Domaines explains how Burgundy by anyone truly interested in wine. its Finest Vineyards is organized and shows where ISBN: 978-1-85626-920-9 genuinely fine wines are to be found. Until resigning in 2003 Remington Published by Kyle Cathie, London. Now in its third, completely revised, Norman was a Master of Wine. Available in English and Japanese. edition its clear approach has been He is a member of the Académie RRP: £28.00 appreciated by producers and Internationale du Vin. The Great

aficionados worldwide. Domaines of Burgundy, was www.kylecathie.com Photography by Jon Wyand, Geraldine Norman and Janet Price MA

66 the art of the word the art of the word 67 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

In his book 100 Most Iconic Wine Estates Matthew Jukes enlightens us on the finest Domaines which have changed the paradigm of winemaking.

The challenge I set myself for this book Others, less so, and I hope that this great joy; nestling comfortably next was not simply to find 100 Iconic encourages you to broaden your to those whose rarity and cost are Estates in the vast world of wine. vinous horizons. The wine world is truly breath-taking. These are also This would be a doddle. It was, in ever-changing, but these estates all wines that I would love to have in fact, to whittle down a mighty list of can be relied upon to make stellar my own collection; forming the most extraordinarily talented wine producers wines year in, year out – they are complete and balanced cellar that to a perfectly balanced century. This the shimmering bedrock of the wine I can design. involved some truly brutal battles (on world. Showcasing an incredible paper) – Château against Château array of grape varieties, regions and I hope that my descriptions inspire and Domaine against Domaine. It countries, with hypnotic aromas you to experience what I have tasted was at times agonising and always and devastating flavours there are and that this drives you to further great fun, and with the 100 Iconic sublime creations on every page. All populate your own wine racks with Estates list complete, I am delighted are unique, celebrating their exact legendary bottles. to present it to you. position on our planet and fashioning delicious wines which entrance our 100 Most Iconic Wine Estates This list features estates whose senses. A fair few of the pioneers By Matthew Jukes wines have electrified my palate mentioned within these covers have Published by Quintessentially since I started working in the wine changed the paradigm of winemaking Publishing business 25 years ago. Many, I in their sphere. There are wines here Recommended retail price is £35

am sure, will be familiar to you. that don’t cost the earth and bring www.matthewjukes.com. Images courtesy [email protected]

68 the art of the word the art of the word 69 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

tasted and I regularly host ‘billybolly’ parties. Pol Roger’s Winston Churchill is the best value of all Préstige Cuvées and Roederer’s Brut Vintage and Vintage Blanc de Blancs are simply mind-blowingly graceful and memorable in equal measure.

You will be familiar with these names and I think that they are the very best, but I am prepared to let Image courtesy Bollinger you in on a cache of my favourite, lesser-known producers.

In true French form, and just like fashion, expert taste can be found if Image courtesy Louis Roederer you have the passion to look hard. Image courtesy Pol Roger So here is a mini-directory. I would The Little advise you to keep this neat little list to yourself because these wines are gold dust – H. Billiot, Chartogne- Taillet, Paul Déthune, J. Dumangin, Jacquesson, Gatinois, Pierre Black Book of Gimmonet, Larmandier-Bernier, Pierre Champagnes Peters, Pierre Vaudon and Vilmart. Billecart’s Le Clos Saint-Hilair is the finest champagne that

In addition to being voted the most influential wine writer in the UK I have ever tasted and I regularly by Off Licence News last year, MATTHEW JUKES is also a previous winner host ‘billybolly’ parties. of the IWSC Wine Communicator of the Year Trophy›.

The 2002, 2004 and the yet to be released 2008 vintages are all utterly Avid Champagne consumers tend approaches and I employ both in my more than four Champagne Houses superb. You actively ought to avoid to take two different routes when own Champagne life. in my latest book – 100 Most Iconic the atypical 2003. tackling this life-affirming elixir. Wine Estates. We dive in head-first and taste our Wearing my journalistic hat, I am My tip for laying down Champagne way around the region at various obliged to taste every cuvée. This Within the Houses Bollinger, Billecart- is to buy as much top flight 2002 as parties and restaurants, or we stick can often be a fairly depressing Salmon, Louis Roederer and Pol you can as this is the greatest vintage to our favourite brands, fastidiously exercise until, occasionally, I am Roger I find an entire universe of since 1996. Many are only just avoiding lesser-known Houses. suddenly captivated by a flavour scintillating Champagne flavours and starting to drink at their peak. when I least expect it and have the so I rarely shop elsewhere. Champagne is like fashion. One pleasure and honour of announcing With this in mind you are spoilt can either stick to a narrow band my find to the world. Every time I finish a book I open a for choice. of legendary designers or identify bottle of Bollinger RD in celebration. lesser known couturiers to build Privately, I am a man of habit and Billecart’s Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is the I hope that you gain as much your own look. Both are accepted this is evinced by the inclusion of no finest Champagne that I have ever ➤ ➤ pleasure from these wines as I do. Image courtesy Louis Roederer Photography [email protected]

70 the art of judgement the art of judgement 71 hotel fairmont monte carlo

Private Dining by Fairmont Monte Carlo creates events of distinction, tailor-made for prestigious venues along the Côte d’Azur MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

in 2000 (Best French Craftsman) Her professional career on the and recognized as Chevalier of the Council of the Nice Bar came to an French National Order of Merit in end when she won forth position in honour of his remarkable talent, the TV Masterchef competition in Philippe Joannès brings a wealth of November 2011. Verneil exchanged talent amassed over 40 years from her love of letters and languages for Lênotre and Pavillion Elisée. His her passion for desserts. Despite experience has taken him from little practical experience, the Le Trianon Palace in Versailles, to Fairmont offered her a position as Le Royal in Deauville and Le pastry chef in recognition of her Camellia in Bougival. talent, creative ideas and ability.

She skilfully blends contemporary techniques with French traditions to shape innovative and feminine tartlets. Her creations are works of art; delicious patisseries of distinction. Her petite replicas of Tiffany boxes, chic handbags and delicate dainty pastries are pleasing to the palate and to the eye. Joannès is able to create unique, personalised occasions for 2 to There is no doubt whether you are 5000 people. dining, sipping a cocktail, enjoying Fairmont Monte Carlo is a prestigious of distinction, tailor-made lunches to fourth consecutive year by the 2013 a Willow Stream Spa treat or the four-star hotel, which has attracted the gala dinners, small meetings to large M&IT Award, these successes are the Claire Verneil, Pastry Chef summer terrace, a visit to the international elite for over 35 years. celebrations as well as catering at result of the passion, commitment Verneil illustrates the Fairmont’s Fairmont will be a memorable event. Perched on the edge of the ocean, prestigious venues along the Côte and professionalism that a winning forward thinking, creative approach. www. fairmont.com/montecarlo it offers the best views of the Rock d’Azur such as the Oceanographic team brings to each day. with its Palace and old city, the Port Museum, the Princely Vintage Car where the most expensive boats have Collection, Château de la Napoule, Massimo Sacco, Head Sommelier

their moorings, the Mediterranean Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and the Voted the Best Sommelier of Monaco Kalifa Image © Georges-Olivier and Monaco’s exclusive beaches and Maeght Foundation. in 2007, semi-finalist at the World’s coastline, which stretches beyond Best Sommelier competition in Greece He has a passion for sourcing the last French town of Menton, The Princely Family has chosen the in 2007, finalist for the International the ripest and best locally grown towards Italy. Fairmont for all its significant recep- Master Sommelier in Spain and vegetables, spending time along the tions. In 1997 the celebration of 700 Judge for the world famous Decanter Côte d’Azur seeking out these gems The Fairmont is indeed one of years of Grimaldi Reign, in 1999 the World Wine Awards, Sacco combines at markets, small farms and unique the most beautiful hotels in the 50 year reign of Prince Rainier III and wisdom, experience and talent to producers. His aim is to showcase world thanks to its elegant and in 2005 the enthronement of HSH create an innovative wine list. regional culture, authentic flavours, distinctive modern flair. Built on Prince Albert II. In 2011, the Private traditional dishes and healthy, the rock above the race-track, the Dining by Fairmont Monte Carlo While offering a selection of seasonal menus. Fairmont is the centre of the F1 catered for one of the most important international wines, Sacco also Grand Prix circuit, with views of events in Monaco – the cocktail re- aims to promote the wineries close In his kitchen you will find Perthuis the deadly Fairmont Hairpin bend, ception for 6000 Monegasques at the to Monaco. He brings our focus asparagus, zucchini flowers perfumed entrance of the renowned tunnel civil wedding of HSH Prince Albert II to the wines of Provence and with orange blossom, mini eggplants, and over the Mediterranean. and Miss Charlene Wittstock. Italy, especially those which have cœur de bœuf tomatoes, lavender biodynamic qualities. honey and Carros strawberries. He Since its launch in 1975, the hotel’s Voted Best European Hotel by the believes that the red mullet is one of catering service Private Dining by 2012 International Property Awards Philippe Joannès, Executive Chef the best Mediterranean fish and loves Fairmont Monte Carlo creates events and Best Overseas Hotel for the Voted Meilleur Ouvrier de France sea bass grilled with fennel.

74 hotel fairmont monte carlo hotel fairmont monte carlo 75 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE Image courtesy Allan Hall

le Prix de Prix

We follow Ian R Hall on the trail through forests for gnarled, aromatic yet prized truffles.

It is early on a grey December of electricity, computers and even driven by a lust for truffles and are morning and here and there across visits to the planets the harvest has just as likely to scoff the find during Europe lights burn in cottages. Men remained unchanged for centuries. The a moment’s inattention. (mostly) pull on their boots, don partnership between man and dog is warm coats, store tasty morsels in like the partnership truffle fungi have A good dog will gently mark the rough earthy sacks for their four- with the roots of their host trees. ground and point its nose above footed partners and head for the the subterranean prize. The master back door. There is a chill in the Not any dog will do. It has to be will then carefully scratch away the air and an expectancy that this one passionate about the hunt, the soil above the truffle. This might morning could return the prix de prix chance to play with a favourite toy, be just the removal of one or two they always hope for. The dogs are or the need to please the master. centimetres of soil, but for the released from their kennels and the One more interested in a pheasant, precious Italian white truffle, it could hunt begins for that most elusive of rabbit, or the neighbour’s cat will not mean a careful dig to a depth of half

foods – the truffle. Despite the advent do. Pigs can be used too but they are a metre or more, lasting half an ➤ ➤ Image courtesy Allan Hall

76 the art of seeking the art of seeking 77 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE Image courtesy Ian Hall

hour to unearth the treasure. Marking happy banter between the sellers, the Périgord black truffle and Italian the truffle with a paw or spade will across their ropes, disguises the white truffle retailing for well in reduce the value, so care is needed. intensity of the valuation. At precisely excess of €1000 per kilogram, such After an hour or so of heavy hunting, 14h00, the ropes are lowered and extravagance would now grace the the truffles are wrapped in a cloth heads buried in baskets to sniff their tables of only the very rich. Truffle and either reburied in the back worth, before the bargaining begins. production in France is less than garden or stored covered in soil a tenth of what it was in 1900 and in the fridge, to extend their shelf As the afternoon wears on the harvests in Italy and Spain are less life. There is then a patient wait for bidding becomes increasingly than healthy. All eyes and noses a day or so for the truffle aroma to frenetic. Buyers fret that they may have turned to European scientists gradually reach its peak. not have enough truffles to sell for to solve the problem. Down under in gourmet dinners. Sellers anxious that the Southern Hemisphere scientists The truffles may be offered for sale by their truffles will not survive a further are passionate about the supply a well-worn face and gnarled hand at seven days in the fridge, losing of truffles for European off season the rear of a restaurant or in the local size and value daily, yet knowing markets – but that is another story! pub, or to a wholesaler like Pierre- the drive across France to sell their Jean Pebeyre in Cahors whose family truffles at another market would not Ian Hall, Gordon Brown and have been in the business for more be an economic venture. The long Alessandra Zambonelli are the authors than a century. day finally comes to a close. For the of the book Taming the Truffle, which sellers, it is all over for another week. reveals a fascinating account of the For the explorer of the industry For the buyers, chefs and gourmets, history, lore and cultivation of these nothing beats the truffle markets of the best is yet to come. princes of the table. France. Once a week, during the truffle season in the southern towns Sadly, the golden age of the truffle Taming the Truffle is published by like Lalbenque, benches and trestle in the latter half of the 1800s, a time Timber Press and available directly tables are set up in market places. when Mrs Beaton could recommend from them or online from Amazon. Ropes are strung out between the “take one good sized turkey and It is also available in English or sellers keen to sell their finds to stuff with 8 good sized truffles”, are Spanish. ◆ ◆ ◆

Images courtesy Ian Hall buyers hoping for a bargain. The long since gone. With the price of www.trufflesandmushrooms.co.nz

78 the art of seeking the art of seeking 79 Inherited passion

Maison Auer confectioners since 1820 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Along the cobbled streets of the ancient town of Nice, one discovers a shop with an old-fashioned charm and delectable delights, which fascinates and captivates.

5th generation Maison Auer has earned the reputation as being one of the most elite chocolate establishments in France.

Windows piled high with confec- tionery, hand crafted furniture and paneled walls lead you into the imaginary world of fairy tales, Marie Antoinette and Versailles. Its gilded, moulded décor, gold mirrors, cloth covered boxes and geometric displays of bite-sized mouthwatering surprises entice you. The decorative floor tiles

form a tapestry beneath your feet. Images courtesy Maison Auer The counter tops are reminiscent of Belle Époque boudoir dressers with He felt it was important to keep Chocolats and could open a chain their sways of flower chains in the the spirit of his family’s philosophy, of shops to satisfy the international tiny clasp of cherubs. The scent in exceptional quality and the essence demand, yet he chooses to work the air is sweet. In this secret world of the creation. By using an inherited for pleasure rather than money. It’s of desire, you are tempted, you recipe, enhancing texture, taste and the luxury of passion, I think, as he succumb and you are rewarded. flavor, the products taste unique which explains how it would be more cost makes them different to most Parisian effective to rent out his shop than The Maison Auer success is simple Chocolatiers. The flavour has a dry, to work as hard as he does. “It›s a – quality ingredients, unceasing cocoa taste and intensity without family business but it›s not just my excellence and a spirit of dedication. too much fat. Truffles are whipped job, it’s our job and this is what I chocolate and cream with a variety of love to do.” As the world speeds up and concentrated, yet scrumptious fillings. technology takes over, the skill of This stylish shop, with its tearoom, the artisan can be overlooked and “Our chocolate can be imitated but truffles, almond slabs and candied negated. It is specifically these cannot be equaled” he states proudly. fruit continue to draw French locals aspects, which may first draw you to and aficionados just as it has done his shop, but it is the visual displays, The fruit is rich, ripe, luscious, yet for five generations. This is France, and sensual tastes that will encourage firm and moist, candied to intensify so I rest assured that these locals you to return time and again. the natural fruit rather than just will instill the value of quality and adding sugar for sweetness. The perfection of taste in their children. “Luxury should be small, exclusive and jams are succulent rather than Maison Auer will remain one of the elite. Mass produced luxury products simply puréed fruit and without French Rivera favourites for centuries lose their lustre,” explains Thierry. a trace of preservative. to come. ◆ ◆ ◆

At 24 years, his father passed on Thierry hopes his children will follow and Thierry found himself heir to his family tradition, however he feels the family business. Having worked strongly that they should lead a life Maison Auer in the kitchens on old traditional which follows their own heart. 7 Rue St François de Paule equipment, he felt he could simplify Vieille Ville de Nice the manufacturing process without Auer has been allocated two stars +33 6 71 41 78 53 a decline in quality. by the famed Le Croqueurs de www.maison-auer.com

The art of inheritance 83 THE ART OF FLAVOUR

A slice of Riviera life MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

Visiting an open-air market on Daily from 06h00 (July to September). cashmere and antiques to artichokes the Riviera is always a rewarding Closed on Mondays (October to June). Located on the Place des Lices, in pleasure. It permits a glimpse Nestled beneath the tall walls of the the village centre, where famous into a lifestyle that has existed for city of Antibes, in the heart of the Old people like Karl Lagerfeld and generations, a social event with local Town close to the Port Vauban is one Vanessa Paradis “de passage” play banter which intrigues and entrances, of the finest markets of the Riviera. petanque with trendy locals while a palette of colour and aromas sipping a pastis. (Lices means and an opportunity to shop. These Beneath a structure of metal arches, jousting ground). On Tuesdays and markets transform sleepy villages into stalls offer an enticing mix of fresh fruit, Saturday mornings the square is a vibrant riot of colour and activity. vegetables, meat, spices, oils, fish, turned into a market that would Then after lunch they doze again saucisson, ready-made dishes and stimulate any shopaholic. The even poultry complete with feet and century old plane trees divide it STEPHEN ROBERTS and SÉGOLÈNE beaks. Of course everything comes into seven long arcades. Our first CAZENAVE from Riviera Kitchen at a price, and at the Antibes market and favourite destinations is Marie seek out authentic markets, local prices are as high as the ramparts that Andree Bouvet’s vegetable stand, producers and recipes across the protect the city from the sea. mostly sold under the ‘Frejus’ label. French and Italian Rivieras where Believe me, her salads, peaches, fresh produce is displayed proudly lemons and courgettes are worth by locals who chatter and tempt. Arrive early, the traffic jam!

Many of the markets on the Riviera take lots of cash: 0If you hate crowd’s stay away; are much more than just food if you want to find bargains you markets, offering table linens, shoes, feast and find! might be disappointed. clothes, flowers, books, antiques or artwork. Arrive early, take lots of cash: Menton, feast and find! The Saint-Tropez Market, Place aux Herbes, Menton, Place des Lices, Côte d›Azur France Côte d›Azur France The Provençal Antibes Market, Open Monday and Saturday morning, Open everyday from 05h00 (05h30

Cours Massena, Côte d›Azur France everything from cabbages to in winter months) until 13h00. ➤ ➤ Images courtesy Riviera Kitchen

86 the art of discernment the art of discernment 87 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE Image courtesy Riviera Kitchen

Close to the seaside and housed in a fruit, vegetables, cheese and wine There is an unparalleled thrill gloriously dilapidated Belle Époque stalls lining cobbled streets in the when shopping at markets and structure built in 1898 by the famous ancient centre. buying fresh produce grown by local architect, Adrien Rey, a protégé local suppliers. Each is unique of Gustave Eiffel, this market is just The antique market on the first and has its own atmosphere, with the right size to feel at home. With Sunday of the month offers jewellery, markets in Italy generally cheaper only 30 vendors, you feel like you glassware, furniture, ceramics and than those in France. Plan your know everyone after only a few coins for the enthusiast and collector. shopping in the morning and enjoy visits. The real deal is found around a leisurely set menu for lunch the back side of the market where a Ventimiglia, before ambling home. handful of small local producers come Via della Republica, Italy to sell their citrus, preserves and fresh Open every day until 13h00 and Riviera Kitchen, the fusion of produce. zThe Menton Annual Lemon then 15h00–17h00 French and American media and Festival celebrates the introduction culinary professionals, Stephen of citrus to bolster immunity against This covered market on the coast- Roberts and Ségolène Cazenave scurvy in the 15th century. hugging street, is one of the best in search high and low for authentic Liguria with a charming collection Riviera cusine. Their blog chronicles Valbonne, of local producers selling brightly their discovery of the best markets, Place des Arcades, coloured Italian products brimming restaurants and local producers Alpes Maritimes, Côte d›Azur with flavour: fruits, vegetables, fresh along the bountiful Mediterranean FranceMarket on Friday mornings pasta, Italian charcuterie, flowers and coast. and antiques first Sunday. loads of cheeses and meats. This is a guide to the best Valbonne means ‘the good valley’ On Fridays, you can find Italian restaurants, markets and local in Provençal. In this picturesque, belts, bags, shoes, scarves, clothes, producers along this bountiful vibrant 12th century village you will hats, gloves and homeware – some Mediterranean coast. discover belts, hats and souvenir probably made in China! You can

Image courtesy Riviera Kitchen sellers in the regular market and local even pick up a fur coat! www.rivierakitchen.com ◆ ◆ ◆

88 the art of flavour the art of discernment 89 WORLDWIDE tRavEL • v ILLaS • CHa LEtS

What if everyday could be like an A&K journey? The Abercrombie & Kent Lifestyle Club brings that dream closer to reality with a comprehensive suite of services that lets you get the most out of every journey and every day.

For the first time ever, A&K is opening up access to its 50 offices worldwide to provide the best in luxury travel, leisure and medical and security services. The Abercrombie & Kent Lifestyle Club gives you and your family round-the-clock assistance with all of your travel and lifestyle needs.

Members and their partners are allocated their own travel consultant and dedicated lifestyle manager who design tailor-made holidays and provide 24/7 lifestyle assistance, from sending flowers to securing impossible restaurant reservations, sourcing high-demand theatre and sporting tickets to arranging access to clubs and exclusive events.

Membership also provides you with A&K’s most exclusive travel benefits and preferential rates; on-the-spot medical and security assistance for the entire family; premium access to VIP events and hospitality; and much more.

Monte Carlo Palace 7, Boulevard des Moulins 98000 Monaco

Call: +377 97 985 333 www.abercrombiekent.mc MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE Photography by DOOK

THE LEGEND THAT IS… THE OYSTER BOX

Ask anybody…who has stayed at The Oyster Box in Umhlanga Rocks, Durban, South Africa about their experience and you will be regaled with tales and stories to fill a volume. Each one… almost to the person… will want to share their experiences and memories… of which there are many, with adjectives like ‘romantic, beautiful, elegant and stylish’ spicing their tales. Photography by Stephen Yelseth Princess Charlene and HSH Prince Albert II

92 the art of elegance the art of elegance 93 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE

It was the exclusive venue chosen long as anybody can remember. The This gracious gem has undergone The Oyster Box is no stranger to that the dream of ‘one day’ owning 24-seater, in-house cinema flighting by HSH Prince Albert II –and original cottage called The Oyster a number of architectural changes celebrities and ‘Royals’ and this the property, was first conceived. classic and current releases, is a South African born wife Princess Lodge was built on the grounds since the 1800’s, including a recent eye-catching hotel has welcomed quirky addition to an all round line-up Charlene Wittstock for their cocktail in 1863. Made of Burmese Teak, extensive two-year rebuild. the young British Princes Harry and Today, The Oyster Box buzzes of their services and facilities. reception for 150 friends and family corrugated iron and re-inforced William and King Goodwill Zwelithini, with a renewed energy and vitality. in the uber-stylish Lighthouse concrete, it was originally used as The new pearl in the oyster reveals King of the Zulus. It was also the Accommodation includes 86 Set in the lush sub-tropical gardens, Bar shortly after their magnificent a navigational beacon. Today the a 21st century Oyster Box with chosen venue of the Manchester individually-decorated rooms, suites overflowing with foliage, water wedding in Monaco. Furnished hotel is positioned directly behind the the luxurious comforts of a grand United soccer team. and exquisite villas, as well as a features, and ponds, you can in crimson and warm browns the iconic Umhlanga lighthouse. destination and the elegance and magnificent split-level Presidential experience purity and serenity room enjoys glorious views over the charm of a bygone era. The Oyster Box evokes fond Suite, offering the ultimate in luxury. in their award-winning Spa with signature red and white candy striped In 1952, the cottage and overgrown memories for her countless visitors its pure white marble and South lighthouse and Indian Ocean. grounds were sold to local residents Some features of the original interiors as it does for the current owners Renowned for generous Africa’s only Hammam. Ken O’Connor and Kay O’Connor have been preserved and maintain Stanley and Bea Tollman, who hospitality, passionate service The princely couple brought glitz (Hill), his sister. They started a tea the impressive colonial ambience. bought the hotel in 2006. and excellent cuisine, guests have Reflecting and celebrating the and glamour to the hotel, which for garden, which became a restaurant, The grand, revolving door, shiny The Tollmans own the inter- a choice of six venues for wining, intricate tapestry of South African generations has been regarded as the and then in March 1954, The Oyster wooden reception and stately nationally-recognized Red Carnation dining and relaxing. history, the Oyster Box is an perfect family holiday destination. Box Hotel. Situated on the site next entrance hall with its black and white Hotel Collection, comprising elegant blend of heritages which to the statuesque lighthouse and terrazzo tiles, wrought-iron balustrade 14 four and five-star hotels The Pearl, Shell, Durban July and successfully connects time from A large part of the legacy of The Oyster silhouetted against the vast backdrop and original, inlaid hand-painted tiles around the world, but it Union Castle rooms are ideally suited Colonial Africa to a state-of-the-art Box is that it’s been around for as of the ocean. preserving the original elegance. was at The Oyster Box in 1952, to weddings, functions and events. A KwaZulu-Natal hotel. ◆ ◆ ◆ Photography by DOOK

94 the art of elegance the art of elegance 95 WORLDWIDE tRavEL • v ILLaS • CHa LEtS

For 50 years, Abercrombie & Kent has been pioneering luxurious holidays to established and emerging destinations all over the world.

We have just opened a new private travel boutique in the heart of Monte Carlo close to the famous casino. From here, we offer a travel concierge service - Private Travel - designed to take care of arrangements wherever a traveller wishes to go, by whatever means and whatever they wish to do while they are there.

The small team are experts on private islands, yachts and luxury safaris. They have built up a wealth of contacts.

They will be able to make suggestions and offer fabulous destinations you might not have considered.

Monte Carlo Palace 7, Boulevard des Moulins 98000 Monaco

Call: +377 97 985 333 www.abercrombiekent.mc