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Kaliningrad Region ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kaliningrad Region Includes ¨ Why Go? Kaliningrad ........ 265 On paper, the Kaliningrad Region seems ripe for an iden- Svetlogorsk ........273 tity crisis. Its eponymous capital was the medieval seat of Yantarny ...........275 Prussia and an important port that was fought over for Zelenogradsk .......276 centuries. Today, less than 500,000 people visit each year. Until the 1940s, the province was almost entirely German; Kurshskaya Kosa ....276 bratwurst made way for borsch as Stalin repopulated the region with Russians and Ukrainians. And though it’s geo- graphically separated from Russia by Lithuania and Poland, the exclave is intimately attached to the motherland. Best Places Yet for all of its chaotic history and cultural foibles – or perhaps because of them – ‘Little Russia’ is a fascinating to Eat place to visit. The city of Kaliningrad teems with interesting ¨ Fish Club (p271) sights and surprisingly sophisticated accommodation and ¨ Zarya (p270) dining options; seaside towns Svetlogorsk and Zelenogradsk dish up old-world charm by the spadeful; sparkling Yan- ¨ Korvet (p274) tarny is the world’s amber capital; and the dunes, pine for- ¨ Prichal (p270) ests and tranquil villages of Kurshskaya Kosa National Park make for a serene sojourn. Best Places When to Go to Stay Kaliningrad ¨ Skipper Hotel (p269) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 6/150 ¨ Dom Skazochnika (p274) 20/68 ¨ Galera (p275) 10/50 4/100 0/32 ¨ Hotel Paraiso (p270) -10/14 -20/-4 ¨ Koshkin Dom (p276) 2/50 -30/-22 -40/-40 -50/-58 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N Jul Russian Navy Aug Yantarny Sep Kaliningrad’s Day in Baltiysk, celebrates Baltic Season HQ of the Baltic Amberfest. performing arts fleet. festival kicks off. 264 History For four years of the Seven Years’ War The region has been famous since Roman (1756–63), East Prussia – as the Duchy be- times for its amber deposits. Ruled by Teu- came known as in the early 18th century – tonic Knights since the 13th century, the became part of the Russian Empire and, lat- area became the Duchy of Prussia, Europe’s er, during the Napoleonic Wars, Russia and first Protestant state, in 1525 with Königs- Prussia were allies. After WWI, East Prussia berg as its capital. The city had been found- was separated from the rest of Germany ed in 1255 and joined the Hanseatic League when Poland regained statehood. The three- in 1340. From 1457 to 1618 Königsberg was month campaign by which the Red Army the residence of the grand masters of the took East Prussia in 1945 was one of the Teutonic order and their successors, the fiercest battles of WWII; there were massive dukes of Prussia. Prussia’s first king, Fred- casualties on both sides and Königsberg was erick I, was crowned in 1701 in the city’s left in ruins. castle. Königsberg’s liberal atmosphere In 1946 the region was renamed Kalin- attracted scholars, artists and entrepre- ingrad in honour of Mikhail Kalinin, one neurs from across Europe, and for the next of Stalin’s more-vicious henchmen, and the couple of centuries the city flourished – capital was rebuilt in grand Soviet concrete in 1697 Peter the Great visited as part of style, albeit tempered by parks, ponds, wa- his Grand Embassy and the 18th-century terways and Kaliningrad Lagoon. The sur- philosopher Immanuel Kant lived there all viving German population was relocated to his life. far-flung corners of the Soviet Union, de- ported or killed. The Russian Baltic fleet was 040km \# Rusnė Klaipėda e# Nida #\ Šiauliai 020miles D (40km) D ) #\Morskoe (90km) Tauragė an Spit #\ Nem #\ Baltic Sea ya KosaRybachy a a n KALININGRAD roni Cu #3 Kurshskaya Kosa urshsk National Park LITHUANIA Kaunas Pionersky (K #\Lesnoy Sovetsk (70km) Otradnoe#\ #\ Curonian #] #5 \#Zelenogradsk Slavsk#\ (Nemuna D Lagoon ##\\s) 4 Svetlogorsk #\ Sheshu Jurbarkas # Khrabrovo Zalivino Neman p Yantarny #– #\ e #\ #\ Polessk #\ Bolshakovo #\ #\ Primorsk Krasnoznamensk #\Gurievsk Mordovskoe #1 Baltiysk #\ RUSSIA R \# Svetly Kaliningrad Kudirkos- 2 EGION EGION Kaliningrad # Prego (KALININGRAD lya #\ Naumiestis Baltiyskaya Lagoon Dobrovolsk #\ #\ REGION) Kosa #\ #\ Ladushkin Balga Gvardeysk #\ Chernyakhovsk Znamensk #6 #\ Nesterov Kybartai Mamonovo #\ #\ K #\ A #\ Gusev D BrD aniewo LI Bagrationovsk #\ Pravdinsk #\ Marijampolė N (30km) I Zheleznodorozhny Ozersk N Elbląg (50km) #\ #\ G #\Bartoszyce rad D #\ Olsztyn (50km) POLAND Goldap REGIO Kaliningrad Region Highlights N HIG 1 Pay your respects at 3 Soak up the beauty of 5 Stroll the shady lanes philosopher Immanuel Kurshskaya Kosa National of Svetlogorsk (p273), H Kant’s grave, then attend an Park (p276), where the discovering old German LIG organ concert in Kaliningrad forest dances and the dunes villas and the sculptures of H Cathedral (p265). roll on as far as the eye can Herman Brachert. T S 2 Explore Russia’s see. 6 Explore ruined castles maritime history on former 4 Splash in the Baltic at and saddle up at the expedition vessels and a Yantarny (p275), then Georgenburg Stud Farm in submarine at Kaliningrad’s visit the amber mine. Chernyakhovsk (p272). Museum of the World Ocean (p265)..
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