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Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/14 SPECIAL 5th EDITION

67 legend Gyedu-Blay Ambolley at +233 Contents

Features Out and about 7 City Beat 25 Sightseeing 60 Arts & Film 71 Hotels News and views Accra’s unmissable The best of It’s an exciting year sights and museums Ghanaian art for hotels in Accra – 10 Calendar see where to stay Our pick of Ghana’s events 33 Bars, Pubs and 64 Children 11 Weekend fun Clubs How to keep the kids 77 Trips Out of The perfect 48 hours Where to join Accra’s amused... and cool Town non-stop party Cape Coast, Elmina, 15 Photography 66 Music Kakum National Park, Focus on Africa 39 Restaurants Where to hear the Lake Volta and more Eat up some of Africa’s soundtrack of Accra 18 Food fight finest cuisine 85 Directory Accra’s best dishes 68 Sport 85 Getting Around 49 Shopping Follow boxing, football 86 Resources 22 & Togo Hunt down the best of and polo or make a Take a road trip east 87 Emergencies Ghanaian design splash in the pool 88 Central Accra map

Published under the authority of and in Maps Luis Benitez, www.e-cartografia.com Anita Ibru 22-23, White House 27, Shutterstock collaboration with Time Out Group Ltd London UK. Marketing Director Michel Kouassigan cover, 11, 18-19, 25, 30. The name and logo of Time Out Group Ltd, Administration and distribution Printers Wyndeham Grange, (01273 592 244) 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB. The Sloane Company While every effort and care has been made to Published by The Sloane Company UK +44 (0) 20 7813 3000 Time Out Group ensure the accuracy of the information contained Directors Marcel Kouassigan, www.timeout.com Chairman/Founder Tony Elliott in this publication, the publisher cannot accept Michel Kouassigan International Managing Director Cathy Runciman responsibility for any errors it may contain. All Editorial International Editor Chris Bourn rights reserved. No part of this publication may PO Box AN 10060 Editor Daniel Neilson International Art Director Anthony Huggins be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, Accra-North, Ghana Deputy editor Ben Lerwill International Consultant Will Salmon or transmitted in any form or by any means, Tel: + 233 244 090 351/2 Contributors Ruth-Ellen Davis, Cat Scully and all Contributors & photography electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or Fax: +233 302 970155 the contributors to previous editions Daniel Neilson, except: establishments own 9, otherwise, without prior permission of Time Out. www.timeout.com/accra Design 33-35, 41, 49, 50, 54, 72; page 8 (illustration by © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 [email protected] Art Director johnoakeydesign.co.uk Amy Blackwell, lower photograph David Severn), ISBN 9781905042845

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 5

City Beat

Soul music Ghanaian musicians are becoming recognised across the world thanks to innovative musicians such as Jahwi and enthusiasts inspired by Accra’s beats. Ben Lerwill investigates

The homegrown talent... Jahwi’s paintings have been The two 22-year olds behind the the music is just so ingrained in “Each song sort of breathed itself exhibited everywhere from South project, Gabriel Benn (aka Tuesday people’s blood, in their everyday into being,” says Jahwi, the Accra Africa to Australia, and given the Born) and Ollie Smith (aka Ollie lives. Ghana is somewhere musician whose debut full-length right exposure his album has the Twist), have so far released two EPs we love.” album, Ancient Soul Cries, gives as potential to reach a similarly wide under The Busy Twist name, with Friday Night EP is out now on clear a picture as any of the kind of international audience. At a time an album set to emerge soon. Soundway Records inventive underground music when so much street-level music They’ve collaborated with currently coming out of the city. Its seems throwaway, Ancient Soul various Ghanaian musicians. So how blend of laid-back beats, Ghanaian Cries has a more mature sound than did two young Brits, childhood Five more to patois, firebrand subject matter and most. “It sounds dark sometimes,” friends in London from the age of layered instrumentation draws on a he says, “but its main objective 10, come to be working with the know about mix of different genres – from rock is healing.” locals in West Africa? and reggae to and hip-hop Ancient Soul Cries is out now on “I had a placement teaching R2Bees – and touches on everything from Maddrenegade Music English in Ghana a few years The duo won the main prizes at the war to sex. Jahwi himself, also a ago and met so many talented 2013 Vodafone Ghana Music Awards photographer, poet and painter, has ...and the London boys musicians,” explains Gabriel. Fuse ODG been a well known name on the local inspired by “When I got back A British hip-hop artist of Ghanaian cultural scene for years. Tellingly, he Ghana’s beat It sounds home, I persuaded Ollie descent who has collaborated with draws his song-writing influences At time of writing, the dark, but we should go out to Wyclef Jean from a whole host of sources. “My video for Friday Night record them. We M.anifest first encounters with music were – a high-tempo tune by its main formed such a tight A rapper of real pedigree with a CV hundreds of vinyl records that my London producers The objective is unit with the musicians that includes work with Damon father had collected over his travels. I Busy Twist – has healing out there that we Albarn and Erykah Badu began DJing his parties from the age clocked up close to realised there was Kaakie of six – it was a disco and funk era, 40,000 views on YouTube. It’s not really something in it. The Busy A female dancehall-reggae singer but some of the most influential hard to see why it’s popular. The Twist was born from there. We’ve from Accra, named Ghana’s best new forces in my music are people like music merges Ghana’s tropical hustle been going back and forth from artiste in 2013 , Nina Simone, Sizzla with flavours of the UK bass scene, Ghana for the last three years.” Sarkodie Kalonji and Bob Marley. I could sing while the video itself, shot in Accra, And what is it about the sound of A rapper hailing from the coastal Redemption Song before I could captures the shuffling, goodtime vibe Ghana that inspires them? “It’s the town of Tema, nominated for a speak English.” of the capital in the sun. energy, the vibrancy, the way that MOBO award in 2012.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 7 Ghanaian Edmund Kugbila now playing for Carolina Panthers Reading up in Ghana Surf’s up Cat Scully investigates the ever-growing literary What better place to movement in the West African country learn to surf than arving its way out of the ‘West along the laid-back CAfrican literature’ hold all category and emerging as a genre west coast of Ghana in its own right, Ghanaian fiction has received due credit in recent British national Brett Davies (aka years with young authors taking Mr Brights) has devoted his life to the reigns from the likes of Kofi surfing. After leaving a top rung job Awoonor (This Earth, My Brother, at the head office of Rip Curl 1971), Ama Ata Aidoo (Our Sister several years ago, he decided to Killjoy, 1977) and Ayi Kwei Armah take the plunge and open up his (The Healers, 1979). Ghana’s new own surf school in Ghana (the generation of writers includes second love of his life). As a poets, successful bloggers, formally trained surf coach and authors of young adult fiction, lifeguard, it means surfers can’t crime fiction and strong be in better hands to try out contenders on ‘recommended new Ghana’s exhilarating waves. novelist’ tables in bookstores Taiye Selasi Beginners to advanced are across the globe. welcome, as are children, with Probably this year’s most from her writing that Ghana is a boards and equipment naturally talked about novel of this realm is key source of inspiration. Take for provided. The school has been so Ghana Must Go, by Taiye Selasi. It instance her poem ‘Orange Juice’ successful since its inception last leaves readers with plenty to chew which describes a person’s dying year that Mr Brights is opening a on, with its unusual narrative style wish to enjoy the taste of fresh second school in Accra at and complex characters. The orange juice “from oranges that Kokorobite. Bookings are taken via intelligent Ms Selasi has certainly are yellow/Not orange, Oranges the website with prices on enquiry. stepped into the literary world with from the forests of Ghana/Grown Kangaroo Pouch Beach Resort, a grand entrance (her fan base wild in cool shade/And careless Busua Beach includes Toni Morrison and beauty’.” (www.mrbrights.com). Salman Rushdie). The story Making waves in young adult Surf lesson at Mr Brights Open everyday 6am to 6pm. revolves around a Boston family of fiction is Sophia Acheampong, six – the mother Nigerian, the whose Growing Yams in London father Ghanaian – whose (2006) depicts a Casket culture mixed up lives repel and 14-year-old Ghanaian girl, retract like a rubber band. Makeeda, who tries to One of Ghana’s best coffin makers is now the subject of new film after a residency in the UK Accra is referred to more balance her Ghanaian It’s not just football... as a backdrop to the upbringing and family hese days, the world knows Midgley, who became aware that Unsurprisingly, this is a storyline, however it is expectations with typical Twhere to come for a designer Paa Joe had been forced out of sentiment echoed by 25-year-old Ghana on film Ghana’s showing at the 2010 FIFA World Cup – not obvious the city and teenage London life. The death-casket. Fantasy coffins have his Accra workshop to a roadside Jacob, who breaks off from to mention the continuing success of big names such Ghana are familiar story is funny and very become one of Ghana’s most shack 90 minutes out of the city, creating a guitar-shaped coffin Football Fables territory for Selasi with readable for young readers talked-about exports, featuring in due to a lack of funds. “To me he (“it’s for a collector in California”) An award-winning documentary as Michael Essien and Kevin-Prince Boateng – mean descriptions such as and their parents. international exhibitions, being seemed like a fallen giant,” to share his thoughts with Time about young Ghanaians looking Ghana now has international renown as a football na- “lush Ghana, soft Ghanaian literature written about in glossy magazines Benjamin tells Time Out Accra. Out Accra. “The dream is that to break into the international tion. But away from the soccer pitch, the country has Ghana, verdant Ghana, seems to be having a and being cooed over by the “Here was this pioneer, someone we’ll be able to move back soccer circuit. plenty more sporting talent. These are some of the where fragile things die” and “the revival moment, with young culturally curious. But the riotously who had been making fantasy home to Accra and earn a better The Sakawa Boys smell of Ghana, a contradiction, a authors rivalling their forefathers colourful creations, coffins for 50 years, living,” he says. “The key agenda Documenting the local bands of biggest names. cracked clay pot: the smell of and mothers of the 1970s. which can take the who had been visited for coming to England was to internet fraudsters who combine dryness, wetness, both, the damp Today’s strong army of writers form of anything from by US presidents, but find sponsors and people who phishing emails with witchcraft. American Football: 6ft 4in Edmund Kugbila (pictured) is now an NFL of earth and dry of dust.” Selasi means the country is getting Nike trainers to mobile who had fallen on hard might donate. Now, we’re just Coz ov Moni player, having been selected at the 2013 draft by the Carolina Panthers. enjoys flitting between hot, slower recognition from around the world phones, represent far times. He gets hoping.” A story with a happy A ‘pidgin musical’ tracing a He was born, and grew up, in Ghana. paced Accra and crisp, snow and encouraging more young more than just minimal passing trade culmination in sight? It’s fictional but entertaining day in the Athletics: Long jumper Ignisious Gaisah is a former Commonwealth covered Boston to contrast writers to put ideas onto paper. whimsical woodwork, in his current location. reassuring to think so. life of Accra hiplife stars M3nsa Games gold medallist and all-African champion – he also featured at the characters old and new/ past and Annual literary festivals such as with each piece taking I visited Ghana in http://paajoe.artdocs.co.uk and Wanlov the Kubolor. London Olympics. present / child and adult. the Ghana Association of Writers up to six weeks to 2011 and we came up Boxing: Accra-born flyweight boxer Duke Micah continued Ghana’s Another writer to look out for is Book Festival) grow every year. make and requiring with the idea of Paa Joe & The Lion finale boxing heritage with a strong showing at London 2012. He is Mamle Kabu (aka Martina This year’s Yari Yari symposium expert craftsmanship. organising a residency nicknamed ‘Mayweather’. Odonkor), whose poetry and short (The Organisation of Women Overseas interest in in the UK for Paa Joe Paralympics: Wheelchair athlete Anita Fordjour was another to star at stories have won her several Writers of Africa) was held in Accra the coffins has as a way of raising London 2012, having previously medalled at the Commonwealth and prestigious literary awards, and featured female authors resulted in increased awareness.” All-Africa Games. including the Burt Award for including playwrites and poets exposure for Accra’s It was only Joe’s Swimming: Young swimmer Kweku Addo made history in early 2013 African Literature in 2009. Born including Sapphire, Dorothea leading coffin sculptors, in second trip outside of Ghana, and when he broke the national 50m freestyle record at the age of just 16. and raised in Ghana, it is apparent Smartt and Janet Badjan-Young. particular 66-year-old Paa Joe, who his son Jacob’s first. Benjamin together with son Jacob was documented their stay and will invited over to the UK in mid-2013 release a feature-length Ghana in numbers year when Ghana number of to take up a month-long artists’ documentary film, Paa Joe & The became independent government residency at a stately home open Lion, in 2014. “Joe’s art is numbers in sponsored 2nd to the public in Nottinghamshire. unusual in that the majority ends millions of languages in position of Ghana in Working together, father and son up under the ground, so he wants Ghana’s Ghana world cocoa production used the time to carve and something to be remembered by,” population construct a full-size example of Benjamin continues. “But above 97 25 (2011) percentage of energy their trademark lion coffin. all, he wants to leave a legacy for 1957 number of Ghana gets from But there was more to the his family. The ideal situation is seasons in total area of Ghana in damming Lake Volta, project than simple creativity. The that the final scene of the Ghana: wet square kilometres, slightly the largest reservoir 2 man behind their trip to England documentary will be Joe’s move (Apr-Nov) and smaller than the UK in the world was British filmmaker Benjamin back to his workshop in Accra.” 238,533 9 dry (Dec-Mar) 8 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 9 Music events at the Alliance Francaise painting, stencil work, side walk painting, chalk art and vast murals. Past events have also featured large art installations and photography displays, as well as live music, DJ sets and theatre Dates for and spoken word performances. August your diary Asafotu-Fiam Festival Celebrated by the people of Ada in Greater Accra, this festival commemorates the warrior. Victorious and fallen are remembered with re-enactments and traditional costume. September Accra International Marathon The Accra International Marathon attracts hundreds of spectators and participants to its course that runs from the beach town of Prampram, through Tema – a port city east of the capital – and on to the baked sands of Labadi Beach in Accra. The marathon supports A year in Ghana the Longevity Project – an initiative dedicated to increasing the life Sporting events, traditional celebrations and creative festivals pepper expectancy of Ghanaians.

Ghana’s social calendar Fetu Afahye Festival On the first Saturday in offers a colourful pageant of southern coastal side between September, the communities in January gong-gong drummers and dancers. Accra and Cape Coast. The the Cape Coast area converge festival takes place on the first with processions of chiefs and Bugum Chugu (Fire) Festival Saturday in May. warriors strutting in their finest The Fire Festival coincides with the April gear. The costumes and finery lunar calendar and commemorates witnessed at this festival are prince Naiyul-Lah Mohammed’s Ghana Music Awards June dazzling. For anyone interested exile in AD658. It is an Islamic The highlight of the Ghanaian in dress and show, this festival tradition that has grown into a music industry’s year is this heady Environmental Film is a must. night procession of lighted event showcasing the country’s Festival of Ghana torches, drumming and dancing. most popular talent. 2013 saw the Run by a non-profit organisation, awards’ most lavish night to date, this internationally acclaimed October Indian Film Festival complete with red carpet, strobe festival aims to educate the public The Indian High Commission lighting and a packed line up of about our troubled environment. Ghana Fashion and Design Week brings a bit of Bollywood glamour live performances. Nominees are Though the focus is the As Ghanaian designers become to Accra for a few days each year. shortlisted from the year’s environment, but it’s not ever more prominent on Known for their vivid costumes, releases of hiplife, hip-hop, all doom and gloom. the international stage, cheesy love plots, song and reggae, gospel and Afro-pop. Films screened are this week of dance, Bollywood movies may not Recent big winners were R2BEES. selected to suit catwalks, models be the best cliff hangers, but they www.ghanamusicawards.com both a young and frantic buying, sure are fun. Subtitles will help audience and old, is the showcase those not fluent in Hindi and Ghana Paragliding Festival as well as for new talent. children are more than welcome. Easter weekend sees a football encourage There are dozens Held at the Silverbird Cinema. field in Accra fill with musicians, filmmaking. of events www.indiahc-ghana.com media crews and of Genres include throughout the festively-clad spectators as animation, week, including aspiring paragliders take to the documentary and Accra Polo Club forums, talks, and February skies. In less than a decade, the drama. The festival is of course, shows. Ghana Paragliding Festival has one week long with film www.facebook.com/ Dzawuwu Festival become very popular. It also works screenings in various venues Ghanafashionweek Agave people’s thanksgiving closely with the Couldbase including open air. The 2013 title festival. Chiefs and tribesmen of Foundation which is an NGO was ‘Health and the Environment’. the Volta region also pay homage working for children in West Africa. For more information and contact December to their fallen ancestors and It takes place in Nkawkaw on the details see www.effaccra.org. It’s praise present leaders. -Accra road. usually held around the end of Accra Polo Open www.ghanaparagliding.com June and beginning of July. Taking place at the Accra Polo Club, this annual event attracts March teams from around the world. May July Previous competitors have come Damba Festival from New Zealand, Colombia, This festival originates from Aboakyer (Deer Hunt) Festival Chale Wote Street Art Festival Egypt and Argentina. There are Islamic tradition to mark the birth One of the highlights of Ghana’s Artists take to Jamestown’s other events throughout the year. of the prophet Mohammed. festival calendar, Aboakyer is held streets for this vibrant alfresco art Check out its Facebook page Celebrated around Tamale and in the township of Winneba on the festival that spans acrylic street for details.

10 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Accra is a party town, but it pays to know where the action is. So to save you valuable partying time, Time Out Accra has timetabled your perfect weekend in the city. You’ll shop, watch sports, relax, eat and drink well, and dance to live music and the country’s hottest DJs. It’s 9am on Saturday morning – hail a cab, buckle up for a roller- coaster ride through the Black Star of Africa. s

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 11 IME O E T UT TH

EST. 2008 AccrP D E N The best E R F K SATURDAY 1pm E C T W E E SUNDAY Traditional meal in Buka weekend escapes You may not be that hungry, but Ghana does From a blast of dock-side action along food very well – there’s a lot to sample. Order the coast, to a dizzying tree-top walkway 9am a lunch of tilapia and banku at Buka (see p40). 10am above a national park, Time Out Accra A gorgeously grilled fish and a starchy, gooey Breakfast, swim, massage Coffee and pastry at Café dez Amis presents the best ideas for a great You’re going to need to be fortified for banku, made from pounded cassava, to sup up weekend out of the capital the hot sauce, is delicious. It is an authentic Feeling OK? Let’s start the morning off this weekend, so we suggest a relaxing, gently with a coffee and croissant in the and filling, start to proceedings. The Ghanaian culinary experience, but go easy on the red sauce: it’ll blow your tongue right out of leafy surrounds of Café dez Amis. When Mövenpick Ambassador has the it gets a bit warm, hop in a taxi to... Colour and culture in best, and biggest, buffet in Accra. Smoked your mouth. Cape Coast and Elmina salmon, pastrami, fresh croissants, Elmina, we’re full English, eggs cooked to your liking, reasonably confident endless coffee – oh and some healthy 11am in saying, must be one stuff too – make this is the of the most colourful A swim at La Palm Royal breakfast of kings. 3pm places in Ghana. Beach Hotel Once you’ve eaten, Take in a bit of culture at the Everything about this This is a great pool for roll out the door Artists Alliance Gallery town revolves around mindlessly swimming in and spend a couple The best place to find an overview of Ghanaian fishing and most of the town comes out circles and cooling down. of hours dozing and art right now is the Artists Alliance. It’s a vast twice a day to see off the fishermen and Alternate with reading those dipping in what’s undertaking by Ablade Glover, Ghana’s most sailors and greet them again as they return weekly news magazines also the city’s well known painter, in a vast building full of the 1pm with their load. Brightly painted boats, you only buy on holiday and loveliest pool. finest art, all for sale. You’ll find large colourful Tuck into a traditional everyone wearing football shirts, the flip- jumping into the deep end of And if it couldn’t depictions of market life, and of Ghana’s rich buffet at Holiday Inn flopping catch being sold on the dockside: the pool. Drinks and nibbles get any better, fishing trade. It’s also a good place to see Here’s your chance to try all it’s an overwhelming sight. follow our some older art, as well as the fantasy coffins will be brought to your sun of Ghana’s culinary delights lounger. If you fancy a wander, example and (see p8). Everything is for sale. See p61. in one go. The Holiday Inn’s By the beach at head to nearby Labadi Beach get a massage Sunday lunch is a vast Big Milly’s to watch Ghana in Sunday too. Bliss. affair, with many traditional An hour or so out of 4pm mode (football, Star beer, and dishes. We’d recommend Accra is Kokrobite. Learn about Nkrumah football). the goat soup, groundnut This small beach Pay attention, you’ll be quizzed. To see how national heroes are built, stop soup and, well, anything. off at the mausoleum of Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first president and one town has become a destination for of its founding fathers. Across the five acres of land are a museum, statues, ME O TI UT HE sun-lovers and manicured gardens and, of course, the mausoleum itself. Look out for T Independence Square here too. See p27. pleasure-seekers. 3pm The long-established Big Milly’s (see p80) EST. 2008 AccrP D has become something of a backpackers N E E Cheer on the R F K E C T W E E classic – a laid-back hostel with an open 9pm Hearts of Oak bar. Nearby is Bah’doosh (see p80), an All together now: Australian-owned bar and restaurant Splurge at Santoku, Accra’s finest restaurant “Arose, arose, arose. Be quiet This restaurant and bar was recently opened where there always seems to be someone and don’t be silly. We are the strumming a guitar. 5pm in the Villaggio complex in Airport Residential famous Hearts of Oak! We never Get a party frock and is, by some way, the best restaurant in say die!” Get practising what may That’s enough culture. Time to Ghana. Think Nobu and you are there – in fact Flora and fauna be the world’s quaintest football at Kakum think about tonight. The world, it some ex-Nobu staff had a hand in it. Mixologists song for a game at the Ohene seems, is raving about Ghana’s will knock you up a Tsuyayaki (Zacapa and Kakum National Park Djan Stadium. Football, as you’ll is a hugely popular fashion scene. Updates on African sake with cardamom, shiso leaves and lemon have noticed, is huge in Accra. prints and Ghanaian grass syrup), before digging into effortlessly day trip from Accra. A The Hearts of Oak is the biggest short walk up from the are brightening the catwalks elegant dishes such as crispy oysters with team in the city, and when they from London to New York. Two of creamy wasabi, black cod with den miso or, the visitors’ centre and are playing their arch-rivals from you start embarking the best places to pick up prints signature dish, pan fried scallops with foie gras Kumasi, Asante Kotoko, the and fabrics are in Woodin (see and orange tobiko. on a series of noise from the stadium can be vertiginous walkways p53) and Vlisco (see p53), handily heard far away. opposite each other in Accra Mall. However, don’t suspended high in the canopy. It offers a forget to stop off at Renée Q (see p52) – it’s fabulous view of the park, and a bit of an on the way – for some fabulously lively clothes. adrenalin rush to boot – not bad for a short Luxury women’s clothing with a vibrant African 11pm day out a couple of hours from Accra. twist is the mainstay of international success See live highlife at +233 Christie Brown (see p52), a rapidly expanding 8pm This is the only place in Bojo Beach fashion label by designer Aisha Obuobi. And for Dinner at Nicolinos Accra where you are pretty First-time visitors accessories, no question: Tebazile (see p53) The best pizza in much guaranteed to see pulling up to Bojo – Cameron Diaz seems to agree. Accra: a toss up brilliant live music, often Beach’s powdery between Mamma highlife. The party ethos is sands are often taken Mia, Bella Roma and strong at this club. It’s a aback that this easily Nicolinos. What gives cleverly designed venue accessed beach, just the edge to Nicolinos with an inside stage 25 minutes’ drive from Midnight (see p44), at the that you can see and the frantically beating Mix it up at the Lexington Alliance Francaise, is hear from the outdoor and dusty heart of Accra, feels more like a It’s cocktail hour. And that means 2am its setting in a breezy patio. Grab a large remote stretch of the Caribbean. The Lexington. Sure, they mix a Flirt around Accra’s hottest spot spot outside. The pizza Star beer, order half a After paying a small entrance fee, perfect martini or cosmopolitan, On a dusty side street off Oxford Street in Osu is is fired in a bespoke dozen delicious meaty beachgoers hop into little boats that glide but tonight is about fun so order Accra’s liveliest night haunt: Republic (see p36). It’ll oven and the Italian head kebabs, hear some of across a small and flat stretch of water to their Tea Pot Punch – a rum punch be heaving by now, spilling across the street and chef keeps an eye on Ghana’s best music – Bojo’s gleaming strip of sugar-white sand. for four, served in a tea pot with beyond. Two DJs will have a spin-off on the outside proceedings. It should be join the party. Thatched umbrellas stud the shoreline, cups and saucers. There’ll be a veranda, while beautiful people flirt, drink, dance and said that the service is looking out over the area’s characteristically live band or DJ on the decks. It’s party into the night. Grab a cocktail made from local excellent. crashing waves. about to get lively. palm wine and some cassava chips.

12 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 13 Focus on Africa

t is widely assumed that at least on the surface, become Above Across Ghana at the moment there are Mama Walet Mohamed photojournalism is dead in the water. indistinguishable from fine art practices. (21), who is expecting her some stunning representations of the best The heyday has passed, the great However, some differences still do fourth child, waits at the of these qualities, proving the discipline is magazines and supporters of the remain. While fine art photography is Medecins Sans Frontieres truly alive and kicking. (MSF) health centre at the genre are either long gone or are too visually similar, it is conceptually different. Mbera camp for Malian Iswayed by slick advertising to take on Photojournalism must always tread a fine refugees in Mauritania on hard news stories. On top of that, screen line with the exploitation of its subject. 3 March 2013. By Nyani Nyani Quarmyne grabs and man-in-the-street smartphone (Some practitioners have even been Quarmyne pictures have taken over more of the space accused of deliberately trying to beautify Left Nyani Quarmyne is a great example of the typically allocated to stills photography. suffering). Photojournalists also have to A man in a food distribution talent that exists in Ghana. Even the But look a bit harder and it’s quickly balance a neutral, witnessing eye with an queue at the M’Berra briefest glance across his work quickly refugee camp for Malian apparent that far from being dead, the empathetic viewpoint towards their refugees in Mauritania on tells you that you’re looking at something genre is still producing world class images. subjects. The best photojournalists allow 1 March 2013. By Nyani quite special. Quarmyne has worked for a To paraphrase Mark Twain, reports of its their humanity to shine through – a fact Quarmyne string of international clients, from the demise have been greatly exaggerated. often absent from coldly presented, Bottom right Guardian and the New York Times to Not only is its practice continuing but its intellectually aloof and deliberately trendy Ghanaian sunset by Nii UNICEF and Save the Children, and his punchy aesthetic has jumped out of the works in galleries. In nearly every sense of Obodai work has covered hard-hitting stories. magazine page and onto the gallery wall. the word, photojournalism is not cool: it is Quarmyne has a distinctly multi-cultural In the past ten years, photojournalism has, impassioned, engaged and empirical. background and, having lived in four continents, regards himself as somewhat of a ‘rootless’ individual. One permanent, however, has always been his deep belief in the importance of human relationships. He prides himself on his humane approach to his work and, as he puts it, recognises “the sameness in all of us”. “I met a guy on a plane once whose business card simply had his name followed by the words ‘Human Being’… That works for me!” This sense of humanity is immediately evident in both the nature of the projects he has undertaken and the individual images within them. Quarmyne says: “It is Three photographers with very different styles are hard sometimes… when you’re intruding on a painful or private moment. You can’t documenting Africa in the 21st century. Art historian and help but think ‘How would I feel about someone sticking a camera in my face?’ photographer Adam Monaghan talks to the auteurs But you have to weigh up your intrusion against what you’re trying to achieve.” This achievement is, of course, to make s

14 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 15 s people outside of a situation connect with the rest is the connection.” Obodai uses Above what is happening in front of his lens. photography to focus his thoughts, but the Portraits by Emmanuel Bobbie Emmanuel He is unapologetic about his making resulting questions are often more strong, ‘artful’ images of distressing pertinent than the answers. When we Below Bobbie situations and cleverly cites the peculiarity reach the point of being receptive to an A 6X6 Duotone picture by of following such an illogical stance to its answer, we have already accepted it. Nii Obodai Emmanuel Bobbie’s photographs conclusion: “Should I only take good Like many before him, immediately grab you with their sense of photos in happy situations and bad Obodai sees no issue with striving life and action. They have a positive and ones in unhappy situations?” to create beautiful things even celebratory energy, even when showing To take, for example, his series while making critical images. harsh subjects. He benefits from his ability focusing on mental health “In a recent project I to capture a diverse range of styles that in Ghana. In their subject documented the work well in allowing his pictures to matter, these photos are The best demolition of a slum appear historic in one glance and entirely daunting reminders of photos community in Accra. modern in the next. both our human frailty “When one of my Although Bobbie views his work as and society’s often allow friends saw the images he fitting more strongly within a fine art pragmatic if none too expressed his frustration context such as galleries, coffee table sensitive treatment of humanity at how they look books and high quality prints, his work is those who suffer mental to shine beautiful… Indeed there not self-consciously trendy like much fine disorders. Artistically, was an aspect of beauty art photography. It carries the best these works are almost through to the recorded sequence elements of photojournalism while painterly in their perfect of events and when I first maintaining a sense of timelessness lighting and subtle hues. Their beauty showed the work at a climate change that means it would sit happily in draws you in and once caught you are forum it had a very strong response…. any gallery. compelled to see what these pictures But maybe that’s what beauty does; it Bobbie acknowledges a quite diverse have to say. allows us to be affected in such a way that range of people who have inspired him in Quarmyne says he is not keen on labels we naturally become engaged with the his journey into photography. Some, like and categorising his work since, quite communication without being superficial.” Cartier-Bresson and Yousuf Karsh, hark rightly, images can appear in so many back to classic black-and-white contexts and can be seen by so many photography. But more recent influences, different people. He admits though that the such as Tim Tadder and Dean Bradshaw, world of professional photography is indicate more contemporary, promotional changing and adaptability and openness photographic ideas. Strangely, these are one of the keys to success. polemic influences are actually strongly linked; defined lighting, strong compositions and powerful Nii Obodai representations of a person’s character. They are all, in their own Nii Obodai’s work is another strong way, perfect examples of Bobbie’s example of Ghanaian documentary biggest passion: portraiture. “There photography and unlike many is a way I can sometimes see a photographers working today, Obodai still person’s character in their face and uses 35mm film with a combination of sculpt their faces with either natural classic Leica lenses and Voigtlander bodies. or artificial lighting.” Obodai has an admirable attitude to his In his series The Working Classes, work, neither becoming deluded by the Bobbie also shows a great sense of grandeur of the art world nor limiting the story-telling and strong opportunities that making photographs compositional awareness. gives him. “Photography has helped me These are pictures that are find myself. And I learned that it’s not the comfortably at home with the history photograph itself that creates joy, but the of classic photojournalism and could people, the land, the moment… proudly hold their own in any such photography is only part of the journey; overview of the genre.

16 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Food fightWinner: Buka How to start an argument in Ghana? Ask which restaurant serves Now, Time Out Accra offers the definitive answers (of sorts)

the best jollof (we’ll exclude ‘mum’ from any discussions). as we muncWinhn ander: drink Buka our way througWh itnhne ecity’sr: NI CbestOLI eateries.NO’s (JUST)

Buka vs Country Kitchen Nicolino’s vs Katawodieso vs Asanka vs Bella Roma Auntie Orangery Jollof rice is the classic Winner: NICOLINO’s (JUST) TILAPIA Jollof Ghanaian dish. The A newcomer is here. For Muni’s WYou’llin alwaysne seer : KFC rice is cooked in PIZZA a good while, the pizza WAAKYE & BANKU tilapia and banku RICE a spicy sauce, debate was between Everyone in Accra on the menu – lending it a fragrant long-timers Mamma Mia has an opinion which it’s a wonderful dish. and piquant flavour. (see p41) and Bella Roma of these venerable Banku is a sticky bulbous Not all jollof rice is equal, (see p40), but now Nicolino’s traditional road-side ball of steamed corn dough however. Some will knock your taste Country Kitchen (see p44) is on the scene at Alliance Francaise, eateries serves theW besti nfood.n TOA’ser : KFC to be ripped and dippedWi ninton thee mainr: dish. CL UB buds for six while others will have a flush with a wood-fired oven and an Italian chef Nicolino’s taxi driver almost refused to take me It’s most commonly served with grilled tilapia, great depth of flavour. It’s also important to with Michelin-star pedigree. We’re fans of both really to Auntie Muni’s W(seei p44n).n Waakyeer :is Buka Katawodieso an incredibly tasty river fish of the region, Asanka take into account the chicken, pepper sauce – they are quite different offerings. Bella Roma’s the key dish at both: an ungainly mélange and alongside a super spicy sauce. When and the salad it comes with. The jollof rice at has a thin, but pleasantly chewy, base, of dark black-eyed beans and rice, with meat you walk out of a restaurant with your lips Country Kitchen (see p40) is a more refined good quality toppings – it wins on tomato and some fish, usually eel. The hub of the still softly stinging from spices, you know assemblage, with succulent chicken and sauce – and is pleasingly rustic. Not all waakye assemblage is shitor, a peppery you’ve been banku’d. Orangery’s (see decent rice. Buka’s (see p40) may look as of Nicolino’s topping options work, but condiment made Wof chilli,in driedne shrimpr: CLUB p45) dish (pictured here with kenkey) though it’s thrown on a plate, but the rice has the pizza, blasted in theW hotin ovenn arriveser: Buka and ginger. And, my taxi driver was right. offers well-grilledWin fish,n but its Asanka’s IESO Winne O’s (JUST) er: KATAWOD a deeper flavour, the blackened chicken brings crisped, slightly blackened and full of Katawodieso’s (see p44r) tastes: NI fresher,COL IN (see p44) offering that beats all in Accra out the taste of the skin and the fiery sauce Buka flavour. It just pips it on this. Bella Roma service is friendlier, and waakye is served for taste, size and all-round tastiness. will knock your socks off. everyday (only weekends at Auntie Muni’s). Auntie Muni’s Orangery

Winner: Buka Winner: NICOLINO’s (JUST) Winner: ODIESO Winner SANKA Win nKeArTA: KWFC : A

Winner: NICOLINO’s (JUST) Winner: ASANKA KFC vs Chicken Republic StarWin vsn er: KFC Frankie’sWinner: vsCL UB Winner: ARLECCHINO Club Arlecchino It’s a knock out! FRIED The fight of the fried Win ka chicken, the dual of the You’ll ben ane r: Bu ICE Time for dessert. And More clear winners from Accra’s drumsticks, the war of BEER expert too on a hot day, that has to Frankie’s CHICKEN the wings (you get the before long in CREAM be ice cream. These two food scene idea).W Everyoneinn hase ran: KFC thisW battleinn of er: CLUB Osu favourites have been opinion. is the beers. Both Wingoingn ehead-to-headr: AR sinceLE CCHINO Best brunch huge in Ghana. When the are hugely popular WiArlecchinonner Gelateria: KA ItalianaTAW ODIESO Mövenpick. An expansive smorgasbord of local ghost of Harland (Colonel)W Sanders arrived and both seemWi then greatestner thing: N inI COLINO’s (JUST) (see p40) arrived on Oxford Street some and international treats. in Accra, there were queuesin ndowne ther : Buka the world when served ice cold by year’s ago. Frankie’s was the place to go. street. Chicken Republic (see p43) quaked a pool on a scorching day. They are Although the new sheen has been lost Best burger in its erstwhile dominant position. In some also usually served in large bottles from Arlecchino (there were less flavours The Lexington. The dish of three little sliders with succulent patties in ways it’s an unfair fight.Wi nThe nworld’ser second: CL UB (to share right?!). Star is probably and slow service on our last visit), the homemade buns is something to behold. largest restaurant chain versus a local the nearestW to Budweiserinne andr :the K ATAWODIESO ice cream is simply better. Frankie’s upstart, but it’s a technical knockout for sweeter American offerings and (see p41) is Wsweeti nandn cloying,er with: A SANKA Best buffet W (JUST) KFC (see p43i).n Chickenne Republic’sr: NI CmayO LINO’s rightly popular for that,W but iforn TOA,n er: KFC not the greatest tasting flavourings, whereas Arlecchino Holiday Inn on Sunday lunch. A vast selection of local cuisine. come with jollof rice, but KFC’s coating Club’s slightly hoppier offering is a Arlecchino’s was fresh and interesting – they is crispier, a more flavoursome bled and, crisper and more balanced drink. just need to get back on the pulse. Best dish ahem, toilets cleaner. Santoku. Crispy oysters with creamy wasabi and wasabi tobiko Winner: KATAWODIESO Winner: ASANKA – what’s not to get excited about? Winner: CLUB Winner: ARLECCHINO Best espresso Winner: KFC Nicolino’s. French front of house, Italian chef. No brainer.

18 Time Out AccraWi forn visitorsner and: Athe SbestA ofN GhanaKA 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 19 Winner: ARLECCHINO Winner: CLUB Winner: KATAWODIESO

Winner: ARLECCHINO Winner: KATAWODIESO Winner: ASANKA

Winner: ASANKA Winner: ARLECCHINO

Winner: ARLECCHINO

The beach at Casa del Papa in Ouidah Francophone road trip Ghanaian-based Nigerian Anita Ibru takes a road trip to explore Ghana’s fascinating neighbours of Togo and Benin… and gets more than she bargained for

hana is an island of English language passing the industrial surrounds of Tema before architectural style, visible in some of the city’s culture perched among the French– we got a glimpse of the Songaw Lagoon, the arcades and other old buildings such as the speaking countries of the , biggest salt mining area in Ghana. The salt lakes Cathedral of the Sacred Heart. We didn’t have Togo and Benin. Many Ghanaians were an early highlight of our journey; the salt much time to linger but we couldn’t leave Lomé don’t get a chance to visit these harvesting in the area make it a protected zone. without visiting its historic hotel, Sarakawa countriesG rich in local and French culture and, of It’s also a potentially popular eco-tourist (Boulevard du Mono, BP 2232, 0 course, food. So when friends expressed an destination, being home to some rare species Lomé +228 22 27 65 90) which interest in visiting Benin, I persuaded them we of flora and fauna, including is located on Lomé Beach and should take a road trip to find out what we’d been sea turtles. Continuing on, we close to the city centre. We missing out on. We only had three days and three made our way through the BENIN dined at the restaurant Le nights to drive from Accra to the Beninese city of Volta region to Sogakope, Mercure which offers gourmet Cotonou, passing through Togo en route, but we which I instantly christened French cuisine. made number of memorable stops, taking in ‘the bread village’. Loaves TOGO Onward, we headed to Togo’s Snakes at Temple of Pythons, Ouidah (Voodoo) and the town hosts a Voodoo Festival bougainvillea on the driveway, and the resort’s colonial buildings, some local history and a series were everywhere. It transpired Grand Market where we found each January, attended by people from all around banana yellow chalets standing out against an of natural landscapes unlike Ghana. It was a long that the place was in fact GHANA local food, souvenirs and the world. Its other attractions include the Slavery azure sea in the distance. The resort also had a journey, but enough time to get a true taste of famous for its bread and clay artefacts (including some rather Museum (located at the former Portuguese slavery spa on stilts and great pools (for both adults and Benin and Togo. We chose not to rough it, finding bread ovens. It’s also home to Porto Novo scary ones) followed by a quick port) and The Temple of Pythons. We managed to children), as well as watersports and mini golf. a good balance between fine dining, three-star the Holy Trinity Spa, which Ouidah visit to Togo National Museum. stop at the latter. It was not for the faint-hearted. Cotonou accommodation and sightseeing. we passed near the Volta Lake Accra Lome As well as getting across the There were about 40 pythons in the cavernous OUIDAH TO LOMé (and home) bridge crossing. Food hawkers context of Togo’s history, it was temple, and visitors were welcome – in fact During the last stretch of the journey from Benin Accra to Lomé dished out local fare such as home to everything from preserved encouraged – to wrap one round their neck! The back to Togo we made one last stop – at Hotel le To reach Togo’s capital, Lomé from Accra, we first abolo and dried fish to passing musical instruments, weapons and dolls to guide was French-speaking, so some people might Lac, Abgodrafo. It’s a great place to call in for a had to drive across a wide stretch of savannah vehicles, ours included. collections of traditional pottery and jewellery. need a translator, but if you don’t catch any swim, with a lovely clean pool (or a lake if you’re east of Accra, followed by a narrower road At the border, the experience on the Ghana side The city’s Botanical Gardens would be another French at all, the main message is: ‘pythons rule feeling adventurous). It also offers watersports between the sea and Lake Volta, to reach the was markedly more official than when we crossed ideal stop for those in search of nature, providing the town’. They’re known as ‘Royal Pythons’ and (you can hire jetskis and pedalos). We didn’t have village of Aflao on the Ghanaian side of the over to the Togo side. To leave Ghana you need to an alternative to the beach views and attractions. considered so sacred that the temple entrance is a night to spare so had a meal – which was quite Ghana-Togo border. It was a smooth journey, have passports and money ready – i.e. a dash (or But the biggest surprise to be found in Lomé, left open at night to allow them to roam the town. pricey – before continuing back to Lomé. bribe) – for the immigration officers to stop them reminiscent of its former Paris-chic glory, is Le There’s an unwritten rule that if people find the We drove the same stretch of road back, keeping you there any longer than necessary (it Beluga (Rue de L’Entente, Ex Rue de L’Ocam, pythons in the town in the morning they should although this time passed through Vume, known should only take about fifteen minutes). If you Lomé +228 22 20 97 96) a high-end fusion return them to the temple. Unbelievable. We visited for its wonderful Ghanaian pottery, much of have an Ecowas passport, the rules are a bit restaurant where chef Soupany Khampraseuth further sites connected to the slave trade history, which was displayed for sale by the roadside, and sporadic, but the general advice for foreigners is serves up fine French food and wine. including The Tree of Forgetfulness. Captured finally reached Accra, 70 hours after first leaving. to obtain a seven-day visa, issued on the spot for slaves would walk around the trunk hoping to $15 (10,000 CFA), which works out much LOMé TO COTONOU forget their past lives and identities before being cheaper than getting a visa at the embassy Beyond Togo is the Republic of Benin. put onto the boats for America). Men used to walk beforehand. Once you reach the other side, Europeans first engaged in trade and around the tree nine times, women seven times. there are passports to receive and, again, commerce with the nation as early as the The tree itself has now been replaced by a statue money to leave your pocket. After a 16th century, with the slave trade of handsome and poignant commemorative of a mermaid, representing the sea and the little drama we were greeted by the the Bight of Benin commencing monument that was erected to remind visitors and journey to a new life of slavery. Nearby was the beautiful beachfront of the Togo There soon after. But the hour was late as locals about the country’s dark slave trade history. Monument of Repentance, erected in 1988 by the border (a quite surreally relaxed were 40 we crossed the border, so we drove Even though the title denotes ‘no return’ there is elders of Ouidah to ask for forgiveness for their setting, with the border control straight to the country’s largest city, some superstitious hope surrounding the ancestors’ collaboration in the slave trade. officers’ tables outside) and we were pythons Cotonou, to stay at its newest hotel monument – that the captives will someday Ouidah is also home to Hotel Casa del Papa finally on our way, enjoying the Azalai Hotel de La Plage (05BP347 return, at least in spirit. The ocean backdrop was (Casa del Papa, Ouidah Plage, Ouidah, Benin, ask coastal drive to Lomé. in the Cotonou, +229 21 31 72 00, breathtaking, and it was painful to reflect on the for Mr De Souza on +229 95 95 12 50, www. temple azalaihotels.com/hotel-benin) fact that this would have been the last view the casadelpapa.com), which was to be our last stop The Paris of Africa and instead woke up early the slaves would have had of their homeland before before heading back to the Benin-Togo border. We We could see why Lomé was once colloquially next day to do our Benin sightseeing on the their voyage to hell. The slave trade was at its certainly saved the best for last: this is the Cote known as the ‘Paris of Africa’. In spite of its way back to Lomé. most rampant here in the early 18th century, d’Azur of West Africa in terms of its coastline. political problems it still kept its Gallic charm, The following morning we headed to Ouidah although the entire trade era went on for The resort even has an extra touch of the exotic albeit a little tired. It had colourful houses, grand from Cotonou. This stretch of our journey offered three centuries. by being located between the sea and the lagoon. The Point of No Return boulevards, squares and pleasantly green the most fascinating sites and places of the trip. As well as its slave trade history, Ouidah is also It was a stunning sight: a red-earth dirt track The spa on stilts at Casa near Ouidah, Benin gardens. Lomé also retains traces of its colonial We headed first to The Point of No Return, a well known as the birthplace of Black Magic juxtaposed by hot pink and salmon-coloured del Papa in Ouidah

22 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 23

Sightseeing Take a tour of the Black Star of Africa

Sightseeing 26 Kwame Nkrumah is an essential s 1960 Sightseeing Critics’choice part of Ghana’s history and a good A tour through Nkrumah becomes president half-hour here will fill you in on most Prime Minister Kwame Nkrumah is Sights of the details. Events are held on on elected president as Ghana 6 March for Independence Ghana’s history becomes a republic. His legacy is Arts Centre An intense anniversary celebrations, and on 1 almost impossible to avoid in 1introduction to market life, but a August to mark Emancipation Day. Accra – there’s an Nkrumah fun one nevertheless. Pick up the High Street (0302 671 610). Open Many of the most important events in Ghana’s past Avenue, an Nkrumah Circle and an perfect souvenir in this large covered 10am-6pm daily. Admission Nkrumah Memorial Park & complex. See p27. Ghanaian adult GH¢0.50; non- happened around Accra. Take a tour in chronological order Mausoleum that can be visited Ghanaian adult GH¢1.50; extra Sightseeing (see right). His heavy-handed ways WEB Du Bois Memorial charge for cameras. eventually led to widespread 2Centre The former residence of disaffection, and during a state African-American civil rights activist, is Independence Square and visit to China in 1966, a military a library, museum and mausoleum. Independence Arch coup in Ghana ousted him from Pre-colonial history s See p30. The stands around Independence The best place in power. He would never set foot in Square, with modernist and Ghana to get an 1957 his homeland again. National Museum of Ghana Soviet-influenced lines, can seat The best museum in Ghana has an 30,000 people. The vast area, built insight into life before Ghana’s independence 3 impressive displays of life in this under Kwame Nkrumah, is designed the colonial era is in movement country. Gold weights, textiles and for huge events and military the National Museum Ghana becomes independent stools are highlights. See p30. marches, but is usually empty (see p30). The from the . On except for a few soldiers sheltering museum gives an March 6 1957 Kwame Artists Alliance Gallery This from the sun. The only times the opportunity to travel Nkrumah declares Ghana ‘free huge art gallery – where everything square comes alive are at through the country’s forever’. Kwame Nkrumah 4 is for sale – has the best art collection commercial events such as concerts history from both an becomes prime minister and in Ghana. See p31. and fashion shows, which take place archaeological and Queen Elizabeth II monarch. sporadically throughout the year. ethnographic Independence Square and Even if there’s not much happening perspective. Much of Independence Arch, built to it’s worth wandering around just to the display is given mark the event, are better Accra centre marvel at the sheer audacity of it all. over to indigenous art known as Black Star Square, Along the traffic-choked High Street The Independence Arch, at the and crafts. after Ghana’s inspirational lead and 28th February Road, which run centre of the busy roundabout, is in a free and stable Africa. parallel to the Atlantic Coast, are also known as Black Star Square, s many of the major banks, thanks to the motif that dominates international offices of the arch. The sculpture is a nod to multinationals and the High Court. Ghana’s acclaim as the ‘Black Star The road then opens out and of Africa’: it was an inspiration whisks past the Kwame to other African countries Nkrumah Memorial vying for Park and the Centre Top tip! independence and the for National Culture Flame of African 1482 (Arts Centre), then Photography Liberation, lit by The Colonial era 2009 s into Independence Don’t take any Nkrumah, still burns The Portuguese erect first trading fort, Elmina Castle (São Square and pictures of public strongly nearby. Jorge da Mina); see p81. Like its Cape Coast equivalent, it US president Barack Obama visits Cape Coast Castle Independence Arch. buildings without Please note that there has strong links with the slave years and is registered as Obama visits Cape Coast Castle, a place instrumental in the West Behind the square is a permission. are (seemingly a World Heritage Site. Elmina Castle (also known as St African slave trade. In his first state visit to Africa he says: “I’ve come long expanse of beach, unwritten) laws about George’s) is the oldest extant European building in here to Ghana for a simple reason: The 21st century will be shaped by although it’s not the best for taking photographs and we sub-Saharan Africa. In 1637 the Dutch seize Elmina Castle what happens not just in Rome or Moscow or Washington, but by what bathing. The Centre for National strongly suggest that you don’t and within a few years take over the Portuguese Gold happens in Accra, as well.” Culture is a maze of hundreds of take photographs of any Coast. Today, tours can be taken around the fort. stalls selling crafts, textiles, part of the area.

instruments and antiques from all s over Western Africa. And although Arts Centre (Centre for strictly in the Osu neighbourhood, National Culture) the beach-bound Osu Castle, also Also occasionally known as the known as Christianborg Castle, is Centre for National Culture, this is a along the beach road and included in popular location for visitors looking this section – it was still the seat of to pick up bargain crafts and the government until it recently souvenirs. The main part of the moved to Flagstaff House. Locals market, under a large roof, is full of generally refer to Osu as Oxford stall after stall crammed with 1960 Street, the vibrant area a couple of textiles, carvings, bags, clothing, W E B Du Bois celebrates independence kilometres inland. instruments and jewellery. This part American scholar William Edward Burghardt ‘W of the market can be quite intense E B’ Du Bois, known as the founding father of Kwame Nkrumah Memorial – expect to be followed around by Pan-Africanism, visits an independent Ghana. Park & Mausoleum guys touting poor quality masks. He is invited to stay and create an A national park erected in memory Further into the complex, however, encyclopaedia project there. The US refuse to of Osagyefo (the Messiah) Doctor is the outdoor market that holds renew his passport and he becomes a citizen Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first more interesting treasures such as of Ghana. He dies in Accra in 1963. His s president and one of its founding metal ornaments, drums, wood mausoleum and project can be visited at the 2013 fathers. Built on a former British furnishing, antique pieces and Du Bois Memorial Centre (see p30). The president (finally) moves to polo field, it was the point where leather goods – also the hassle Flagstaff House Nkrumah declared independence in decreases somewhat. Bargaining is a What president wouldn’t feel the majesty of his 1957. The park consists of five acres way of life here, so have fun and position in a literally ‘stool-shaped’ seat of of land and holds a museum tracing have in mind what you want to power? Well the previous president, the late Nkrumah’s life. There are many spend first. John Atta Mills for one, who chose to stay at personal items on display, but the 28th February Road, near Kwame Osu Castle. Three years after completion, centrepiece is the mausoleum, Nkrumah Monument, Accra Centre president John Dramani Mahama has decided Nkrumah and his wife’s final resting (0302 662 581). Open 8.30am-5pm to move to this remarkable building. place. Tours in English can be taken. Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat-Sun.

26 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 27 Osu Castle Jamestown Osu Castle is still closed to the public The oldest, and poorest, area of Sightseeing while the seat of the government Accra is also one of the most alive. ORIENTATION moves to Flagstaff House – although Jamestown is vibrant, smelly and The lay of the land this has taken four years already. The noisy, sound-tracked by the clatter chequered history of Osu Castle of pans, the babble of radios and reflects the history of the Ghanaian the roar of exhausts. Low he main port has moved 10 miles nation. Initially called Christiansborg corrugated-iron roofs stand over (16 kilometres) east to Tema, and Castle, it was built by Danish painted shops, shacks and houses. TAccra has seemingly turned its back colonialists in 1659 on land bought Wandering chickens negotiate open on the Atlantic Ocean. Even the great from a tribal chief in Accra. Over the drains and life-endangering Independence Square faces inland, following hundred years the fort, potholes, while washing-cobwebbed ignoring the beach and expanse of water smaller than the current construction, courtyards play host to spontaneous behind it. It’s also true that the latest was juggled between the Portuguese, football games. developments are moving further inland. Swedish and Danish. Sometimes it It wasn’t always quite like this. As a broad overview, Central Accra lies was taken over by force; other times The district was once the hub for a mostly within the Ring Road that arches from the eastern part of it was bought. In one incident in succession of Portuguese downtown to just beyond Jamestown in the west. The Ring Road is an 1693, the Akwamu ethnic group governments, before the city became essential part of Accra’s infrastructure and is constantly used to hop occupied the fort for several months the capital of the British from one neighbourhood to the next. Roundabouts such as Nkrumah before their canny leader, Assameni, in 1877. Amid the ramshackle streets Circle in Asylum Down, and Danquah Circle near the shopping and sold it back to the Danish for 50 of today’s Jamestown, the colonial eating centre of Osu and Labone, are essential travelling references. marks of gold, around US$350,000 handiwork can still be seen. And Although loosely split into various districts, the area within the Ring today. However, the keys were never despite the apparent poverty, the Road is generally known as the ‘Centre’, which is how it is referred to officially returned to the Danish and quarter still makes for a safe and throughout this guide. Almost in the middle of the city is Makola Market, remain symbolically in the friendly place through which to which is well worth a visit. It’s a shopping hub that’s become famous possession of the Akwamu even wander during the day. More than for its domination by women traders. now. After it fell into disrepair, the anywhere else in Accra, there’s an Outside the Ring Road are the wealthier areas of Cantonments and British rebuilt most of the fort in evident sense of community. Airport Residential. The biggest current expansion is around Airport 1824 and it became the seat of the Two buildings dominate the Residential, surrounding Kotoka International Airport, and Accra Mall British Gold Coast, remaining so until waterfront skyline. Fort James, built (see p49). Condominiums, plush hotels and, of course, the Accra Mall independence in 1957. Kwame by the British in the 17th century, itself, all make this a worthwhile area to stock up on international Nkrumah, Ghana’s first president, commands views over the Atlantic goods. Airport Residential is home to embassies and consulates, as moved there in 1960. At the from a perch above the fishing well as some good cafés and restaurants, and many more soon. beginning of 2009 the seat of the harbour. It served as a prison until government was supposed to move recently and there’s no chance of to Flagstaff House, however, only a entering, but it’s still compelling as a each). If you’re willing to part with They tend to be admirably upbeat couple of departments have made peeling, whitewashed memento of the cash, there’s a good panoramic occasions to witness. the move. Osu Castle is a constant days past. view from the top of the (possibly and poignant reminder of the slave Also of historical interest (and also not overly safe) spiral staircase. Town trade that was largely administered pretty dodgy photo-wise) is the A road from the lighthouse leads Towards the centre of Accra is from the building and was often used nearby colonial-era lighthouse, built down to the harbour and fishing Usher Town, which links seamlessly to house slaves before they were in the 1930s. It’s not a tourist port, a superb spot to witness the with Jamestown along High Street. shipped to the Americas. There are attraction in the usual sense – no gift riotous colours thrown up by the Ussher Fort (High Street, 500m east plans afoot to turn it into a museum, shops or ticket offices here – but endless flotillas of traditional of Jamestown Fort, 0302 671 014) is but there is nothing concrete so far. stray within twenty metres and pirogues. Head down at daybreak to the most important sight in this The road is often blocked off by you’ll inevitably be accosted by a watch the beefy fishermen haul in area. It was built by the Dutch who soldiers but this may be relaxed as ‘guide’ offering to take you to the top their nightly catches (partly the named it Fort Crevecoeur in 1649. It the government moves. for a few cedi (usually around GH¢5 reason that Jamestown, and the was later renamed Ussher Fort shanty of Bukom in particular, after a British administrator at Independence Arch produces such good the time. A former boxers). A security slave-holding area like officer may insist on a Top tip! Jamestown Fort, it bit of money – we History was used as a prison suggest going with The National Museum until the 1990s. But a guide. is the best bet to get now the former prison Inland from the a historical overview (and garrison) is harbour is another of Ghana and undergoing a eye-catching remnant Accra. UNESCO-funded of the British era – the restoration to promote Methodist Church built from the area’s local heritage, imported bricks. develop new space for small Also of note is Brazil House (0208 businesses and increase tourism 173 143, Brazil Lane), a restored to the area, as well as preserving empire-era house that has been a reminder of Ghana’s past – transformed into a museum that said, there’s nothing to chronicling the ’s show yet. Afro-Brazilian returnees. Known as Tours can currently be taken of the Tabom people (the reply to ‘how the building, including a look at are you?’ in Portuguese is ‘ta bom’), where Ghana’s national hero, Kwame they returned to Accra as a Nkrumah, was held. 70-strong group on the British Buffering Usher Town and the city government’s SS Salisbury in 1836. centre is one of Accra’s most The boxer Azumah Nelson is a pulsating experiences: Makola descendant of one of the returnees. Market. Almost anything you could Jamestown, unsurprisingly, is also hope to buy is within this sprawling one of the most densely populated maze. Like a contemporary souk, a areas of the city. Ghanaian tradition network of passageways, roads, stipulates that funerals should be buildings and paths weave through held in the deceased’s place of birth, the area. Hawkers, mostly women, and, as such, wakes can be sell an impossibly large array of witnessed almost every weekend. produce, clothes and home supplies.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 29 Surprisingly, you are unlikely to be hassled much, this being the market Ghanaian stories GUIDED TOURS Sightseeing place for the city’s residents. Not all tourists visit the area, but we A potted history of Accra Follow the lead of an expert certainly advise spending some time wandering this fascinating market. he Accra area was first settled If you really want to push the boat Ghana Nima Tours

Sightseeing Osu in the 15th century by the Ga out on a trip to the region, there With his infectious smile and Osu is probably the most happening Tpeople (lending their name to are a range of public or private boundless sincerity, Charles part of town. The busy Cantonments Ghana when it became independent tours – many of them themed Sablah is a reliable and safe Road, known to virtually everyone as in 1957) who called the town Accra – that can make a visit to Accra, or guide, and you leave feeling Oxford Street, is a hub of activity 24 – ‘ants’ in Nkran – because of the any other part of Ghana. Highly someone has given you privileged hours a day. Many of Accra’s best quantity of large anthills that still recommended are Charles insight. He charges just GH¢5 per bars (see pp34-38, Bars & cafés), dominate the region. From the Sablah’s Ghana Nima Tour and hour per person, and offers a restaurants (see pp39-48, beaches of the Atlantic the Ga Global Mama’s. special price for groups. Restaurants) and shops (see pp49-56, traded with the Portuguese, who (024 627 0095, http:// Shopping) are in Osu. Stalls line the soon became colonisers and built the first fort in Jamestown (see p29). Abacar Tours ghana-nima-tours.yolasite.com) street and hawkers hound tourists, Despite initial resistance – the fort was soon razed to the ground – a Set up by a Ghanaian/French selling personalised wristbands, fake succession of other colonial intruders used Accra as one of the couple, this tour agency is Ghana Safari Tours Rolexes and football shirts. gateways to West Africa and its riches; namely gold and slaves. British, recommended by the Ghanaian Ghana Safari Tours was set up by Dutch and Danish settlers constructed forts along the coast and soon Tourist Board. Its main tours are Swedish nationals and their Oxford Street began to settle beyond the walls. By the time Accra became the capital either one- or two-week itineraries, Ghanaian partner who has Cantonments Road, between Lokko of the British Gold Coast in 1877, it was one of the largest cities in although bespoke tours can be first-hand experience of Road and the busy Danquah Circle, Africa and the centre of the region. booked. The guides are also Ghanaian safaris and other might be known as Oxford Street, Two earthquakes in 1862 and 1939 destroyed much of the early Francophone. adventure tours. There are a wide but shares little with London’s colonial architecture but remnants can still be seen, particularly around 39 Bobo Street, Tesano, Accra range of existing and bespoke shopping hotspot. The only the neighbourhoods of Jamestown and Ushertown. Osu Castle (see (0249 574 691, www.abacar- tours for reasonable prices. similarity is the volume of people p29), Fort James (see p29) and Ussher Fort (see p29), are the most tours.com). (www.ghanasafaritours.com). and traffic. Probably the busiest important edifices still in use today. street in Accra, it’s the site of Since independence from Britain in 1957, when it became the Apstar Tours Global Mamas bars, clubs, restaurants and second African country to emerge as a nation state, Ghana has been Founded in 1987, Apstar is a The tours offered by Global boutique shops. There are no specific held as a twinkling example of stable democracy in the continent. It was member of the Tour Operators Mamas, an NGO dedicated to tourist sights, but its constant Ghana’s first Prime Minister, Kwame Nkrumah, who popularised the Union of Ghana (TOUGHA), and fostering women-owned bustle makes it an essential part concept of ‘the Black Star of Africa’. Reinforced on the flag, in the name has a focus on history. There are enterprises, are likely to tick the of any visit. of the football team, and in the central square of Accra, the Black Star standard day tours and bespoke right boxes for most visitors. In Expect some friendly hassle at the is a powerful symbol of the country’s independence. Ussher Fort longer tours for all group sizes. Accra, there is the day-long northern end (one scam is to ask Although the country’s 55 years of independence have not been 36 Forest Road, Accra (0302 519 ‘Market & Spice’ tour and a your name and then appear 20 without their troubles, Ghana remains one of the continent’s success stools, a seminar room, a restaurant, exhibition about the slave trade is youngsters playing football. If you 931, www.apstartours.travel). ‘Drumming & Dancing Workshop’ minutes later with it embroidered on stories. Accra in the early 21st century is a sprawling urban city a gallery, an amphitheatre and a essential viewing, outlining the go through the main entrance by – GH¢17 for three or more, or a wristband), but this dissipates splashed with a free-for-all range of architecture that horrifies and research centre for Pan-African era’s brutal history and showing Labadi Beach Hotel, it costs GH¢3 BLASTours GH¢21 for two people. In Cape further down. The area is even delights in equal measure. history and culture. poignant relics such as shackles. Mon-Fri and GH¢5 Sat, Sun A Ghanaian-owned tour operator Coast, Global Mamas offers busier during the evenings when There are museums and art galleries to browse, as well as important Off 2nd Circular Road, Cantonments There’s also a gallery with pieces between 5am-7pm. There are bars, specialising in cultural tours. It cooking, batik and revellers hit the bars. Many of the buildings from Ghana’s colonial past offering an insight into the (0302 776 502, www.webdubois-gh. by Ghanaian artists. This is an area restaurants and some shops down offers a bespoke service for headwrapping workshops. shops and restaurants are actually country’s remarkable history, from a region of tribal societies, through org). Open 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; we have heard will undergo some there. Expect loud music and flying tourists and business travellers 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road off Cantonments Road, on the colonisation and the horrors of the slave trade, to become the ‘Black 10am-4pm Sat. Admission GH¢3 for improvement soon. footballs. It’s not the cleanest beach, and can organise transport, hotel (Oxford Street), behind Koala quieter numbered lanes. At one end Star of Africa’, a heroic example of one of the first sub-Saharan a tour (GH¢1 for camera). Barnes Road, Adabraka (0302 221 so best not to swallow too much accommodation, home-stays, Supermarket, Osu (0244 530 of Cantonments Road is the busy independent states. 633). Open 9am-6pm Tues-Sun. water. It’s also home to the excellent guides and conference equipment 467, www.ghanaexpeditions.com). Danquah Circle, a roundabout on the Today, with a burgeoning tourism industry and, yes, all that oil off the Adabraka & Asylum Down Admission GH¢7. resorts of Labadi Beach Hotel (see for large-scale meetings. Ring Road, named after one of coast of Takoradi, now seems the time for Brand Ghana to make the North of Jamestown and just p76) and La Palm Royal Beach (see Sakumono, Tema (0302 404460, Royal Derby Tours Ghana’s founding fathers JB most of its stock around the world. And where Accra is concerned, it is within the Ring Road are the National Theatre p76), both have good pools to enjoy, www.blastours.com). Part of a large company that has Danquah. The circle is generally the atmosphere of Accra will reside in most people’s memory long after neighbourhoods of Ridge and The unmistakable architecture of as does the Mövenpick (see p74). tours across West Africa, Royal crowded day and night. the souvenirs have been lost or stored in the attic. Adabraka – two lively communities the National Theatre deserves to be ConnectWorld Travel Services Derby is a well-established firm. around the Nkrumah Circle and seen – it has been described as Artists Alliance Gallery ConnectWorld is licensed by the The Ghanaian tours tend to be five Cantonments & Labone Asylum Down. This area is a either a ship, or, more abstractly, as This three-storey gallery is home to Ghana Tourist Board and holds days or more. Farther north on the Cantonments area, although somewhat dispersed. unique architecture is said to be mish-mash of offices, street stalls a seagull spreading its wings. a large array of Ghanaian artists membership to ASTA. It offers (244 949 225, www. Road, over the Danquah Circle, is the There are several good restaurants based on the sacred Asante Golden and commercial buildings. Chinese developers built the theatre and sculptors such as Augustine tours across Ghana and also in royalderbytours.com). neighbourhood known as and cafés. Stool, emblematic of the birth of the Towards the centre are the and it opened in 1992 as the Gokah, Betty Acquah, Nii T Mills, Togo, Benin, Mali and Burkina Cantonments. It’s one of the kingdom, but the cost of National Museum of Ghana and centrepiece for cultural life in Ebenezer Borlabie, Kofi Faso. The tours can cover culture, Sunseekers Tours wealthiest areas of Accra, home to Flagstaff House construction has inspired a the National Theatre. Ghana. It’s home to the Setorji and Gabriel history, adventure, eco-tourism Sunseekers offers the whole embassies, consulates and There is, quite simply, no other passionate debate. Although National Symphony Eklou. Ablade Glover, and recreational travel. gamut of tours, from multi-day heavily-guarded houses. The building on earth like Accra’s completed in 2009, the president and National Museum of Ghana Orchestra, the Top tip! one of Ghana’s most PO Box CT 1946, Cantonment, adventures to city tours. highlight here is the WEB Du Bois new-ish presidential palace, and seat staff only moved there in early 2013. The National Museum is home to National Theatre Safety respected artists, Accra (0244 363 360, www. 9 Farrah Avenue, (0302 225 393, Memorial Centre. Labone, to the east of the government, Flagstaff House What will happen to the previous some of Ghana’s most absorbing Players, National Accra is remarkably safe conceived the Artists connectworldgroup.com). www.sunseekerstours.com). of Osu, is a pleasant and quieter (formerly Golden Jubilee House). The seat of government, Osu Castle, is historical finds. The museum, Dance Company and for West Africa, but as Alliance Gallery in the still unknown, but there is talk of opened by the Duchess of Kent in three youth groups. anywhere, be careful with 1960s. He saw the turning it into museum. 1957, gives an opportunity to travel The events calendar valuables and walking need for a showcase Liberation Road. through the country’s history from is getting better all late at night. for fine arts in Ghana both an archaeological and the time, but it still to act as a driving force to WEB Du Bois Memorial Centre ethnographic perspective. Much of seems seriously under-used. gain recognition around the William Edward Burghardt Du Bois the display is dedicated to Liberia Road and Independence world. There are not only was an African-American civil rights indigenous art and crafts: there are Avenue, Adabraka (0302 663 449, contemporary arts, but also activist who became a citizen of regalia, musical instruments and facebook.com/ collectors’ pieces: beautiful, fragile Ghana in the 1960s. He was known the all-important royal Asante NationalTheatreofGhana). Asafo flags with appliquéd and as the ‘Father of Pan-Africanism’. stools. Other displays include Admission GH¢1, extra charge for embroidered symbols, and ancient The centre, where he and his wife Asante goldweights, currency, cameras. strip-woven Kente cloths. It sells art once lived, and where they are now instruments, textiles and directly from the artist. There’s a buried, houses his personal library leatherwork. Slighty hidden away is Labadi good gift shop with minature style and a small museum with a handful the chair used in Kwame Nkrumah’s The city’s most popular beach is coffins and Kente cloth. of personal effects such as his inauguration and the chair of the further east in Labadi. At weekends Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach graduation robes. The couple’s last British governor, rescued from the place is filled with families Road, Labadi (0302 762 576, www. National Museum mausoleum is surrounded by Asante Christiansborg Castle. An frolicking in the surf and artistsallianz.com). Admission free.

30 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 31 Consume Where to eat, drink and shop

Bars, Pubs & Clubs 34 Bars, Pubs & Clubs section Restaurants 39 produced in association with Shopping 49 convene for delicious grilled chicken, staff sporting black shirts, braces Drink Responsibly 18+ Bars, Pubs & thick pork chops and good company and the odd hat set to a jaunty angle. for a drink. It has a worn old-school Food spans light nibbles and Clubs vibe, which is accentuated by the three-course meals, with a silver Bars, clientele who tend to be Accra’s old chainmail curtain gesturing a divide Cocktail culture Osu timers and expats. Don’s has a solid between drinkers and diners. reputation for good jazz and other 11th Lane, Embassy Road (0302 A man walks into a bar… and asks Favourite cocktail? Pubs Bella Roma live music as well as high-quality 777 818, Facebook page). Open for a Moscow Mule and a Mixed Moscow Mule The popularity of Bella Roma shows meat-oriented fare. Visit on a 5pm-3am Tue-Sun. Berries and Basil Splitter. The first no sign of abating, thanks to its weeknight for a hefty chop, grab a you may have heard of, but The Best cocktail outside The combination of good cocktails, good beer and mingle with the locals. It’s a Honeysuckle Pub and Lexington’s very own mixologist Lexington? & Clubs music and good vibes. It’s set just off relaxing place for a well-rounded Restaurant designed the latter. They are two Santoku Restaurant Oxford Street behind Frankie’s, but meal and intimate conversation. Based on a regular local boozer, the very different drinks, with one on weekend evenings you’ll hear the There’s a huge HD TV showing all Honeysuckle in Osu is appeals to the aspect in common: Smirnoff vodka. Favourite spirit base? music first. It teeters somewhere the football games, a wide range of odd homesick Brit, but mainly a between a bar, nightclub and single malts and a dartboard. When local crowd enjoying the pool table The Moscow Mule, a mix of Smirnoff Vodka restaurant (see p40 for food details), it’s busy, the action moves outside. or Premiership football. It’s decked Smirnoff, ginger beer and lime, and the bar area has been recently 30 Ajoatse Street, Nyaniba Estate out in kitsch red velvet chairs and came out of the US in the 1940s. It Favourite non-alcoholic expanded. Walking into the joint, to (0302 769 152). Open noon- striped wallpaper with framed was invented by John G Martin, ingredient? the left is a partially open-air midnight daily. pictures of old British pubs, and Jack Morgan (who owned a Fresh mixed berries dancefloor with a DJ football teams next to scarves and company that produced ginger spinning crowd- Duplex Lounge the inevitable ‘dogs playing snooker’ beer) and Rudolph Kunett, James Best cocktail you’ve designed? pleasing dance and Top tip! and Bar prints. The central bar serves a good president of Pierre Smirnoff (as it Mixed Berries and Basil Splitter was called then) in 1941. Jack – see recipe. hip hop. Cocktails and Tall order The ever-popular selection of international spirits and Tapatheo beers are the drinks of Order a beer and more Duplex has recently beers, including local beers on draft. Morgan told the New York Times: choice. There’s good often than not you’ll get moved location within King Tackie Tawiah Overpass (027 “We three were quaffing a slug, Best classic cocktail? food using quality a litre. Spirit measures in Osu, and if anything 555 6006). Open noon-12.30am nibbling an hors d’oeuvre and Margarita Italian ingredients. cocktails also tend to is more popular. The Sun-Thur; 1pm-1.30am Fri, Sat. shoving toward inventive genius.” Off Cantonments be strong. new premises is Quite. Road (Oxford Street), bigger than the former Lizzy’s The Mixed Berries and Basil Moscow Mule – behind Frankie’s (024 7474 although occupies only one Ahh, Lizzy’s. There’s a little place in Splitter, however, was born in the The Lexington 007, [email protected], floor. The décor is brighter and our heart for Lizzy’s. Little more than bars of Accra. It may not have a 50ml Smirnoff Vodka Facebook page). Open 6pm-late. more upmarket than the last and the a few plastic chairs on a street snappy name, but it’s popular at 25ml lime juice small outside terrace fills up quickly corner, flanked by some very big The Lexington – a brilliantly 25ml ginger syrup Cuzzy Bro’s on those balmy nights. It has an speakers, this beer-fuelled spot is an refreshing drink, perfect to cool Favourite non-alcoholic 3 dashes of Angostura bitters Ryan’s Bar is dead. Long live Cuzzy easy-going attitude and manages to edifying experience. Away from the down in the stifling heat of ingredient? - Add all in Boston shaker then Bro’s. The good times are still rolling feel exclusive without being in the pretence of some Accra nightspots, Ghana’s capital. Below are Passion fruit cordial. It has a sweet shake for 15 sec and strain into in this large Osu bar, with even more least bit snobbish. It is popular with it’s reassuringly down-to-earth and recipes for all of them, but first a fruity taste and pleasant smell. a Copper Mug filled with sold live music, barbeques and excellent the young expat crowd. one of the best places to mix with chat with two of Accra’s best cubes of ice then top up with Cocktails at The Lexington food. Its owners, a South African Off Kuku Hill, near NDC Accra residents. Fridays and mixoligists right now. Best cocktail you’ve designed? ginger beer then garnish with restaurateur and a Polynesian Kiwi Headquarters, Osu (0245 999 999). Saturdays are when it really swings, One of the best cocktails I infused flamed lime wedge and opened the place in June 2013, to Open noon-late daily. and the mood and music both personally made is the Spintex light to give it good aroma. much acclaim from Accra’s expat step up in tempo around 10pm. Q&A: James Train. It is made from vodka, community. Along with a Kiwi chef, Firefly Lounge Bar Order a large Star and watch Accra Teye Oloko cranberry juice and blue curacao Mixed Berries and Pick and mix they’ve also brought a jukebox, a Industrial chic has arrived in Accra. swagger by. over ice in a highball glass with Basil Splitter – children’s play area and a love of As if plucked from the streets of Contonments Road (Oxford Street), James, 29, has been a barman at orange slice as garnish. rugby (of course). Manhattan, this confident nightspot opp Papaye (0302 783 278). Open Rhapsody’s for five years and The Lexington A great cocktail can (finally) be found in Accra 50ml mixed berries Troas Street, off Cantoments Road has effortlessly slid to the forefront 10am-late Mon-Sat; 6pm-late Sun. previously worked at Citizen Kofi. Best classic cocktail? (Oxford Street) (026 608 6003, of the city’s social scene; its 50ml Smirnoff Vodka as a new generation of bars are spending Margarita. This much-loved cuzzybro.com.gh). Open noon-11pm whitewashed brickwork, dim Lounge @ Frankie’s 25ml simple syrup Favourite cocktail? Mexican drink consist of the finest serious time training the next great mixologists Mon-Thur; noon-midnight Fri; lighting and edgy beats attracting a Situated on the second floor of 25ml fresh lime juice Rhapsody’s Blue. This is one of our silver tequila, Cointreau or triple 10pm-midnight Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. preened and international crowd. A Frankie’s is this surprising little 6 big basil leaves signature cocktails. Its made up of sec and sour mix and gives you he cocktail resurgence in Combine that with a serious and lit backbar glows with premium lounge and bar. While the rest of the - Serve in a coupette glass sour mix, Smirnoff vodka, gin, blue the option of plain, frozen with salt London and New York has flexible DJ, live music, good and Don’s Place blends, and cocktail aficionados, Frankie’s complex feels like the fast - Add all the Ingredients in a curacao and topped with Sprite. rim and fresh lemon wheel or slice, Ttruly arrived in Accra, smartly friendly service and some moreish This centrally located Osu hideaway spirit lovers and wine drinkers alike food restaurant that it is, through the Served in a long island glass over Boston shaker then shake for as a garnish. dressed, with a little black book of bars snacks (we recommend the is locally regarded as the spot to pull up stools to confer with chatty frosted glass doors is a much more ice and garnished with cherry. This 15 sec and double strain into a mixes and silver shaker. Before sliders at The Lexington and the sophisticated area. blue cocktail is mostly enjoyed by coupette glass and garnish with this year, we’d never seen barman cassava chips at Republic), you Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) the ladies! Q&A: Tapatheo basil leaves. taste a drink in a straw before have one seriously fun, and (0302 773 567, www.frankies-ghana. serving it, let alone pander to decadent, night out. com). Open 7am-11.30pm daily. Best cocktail outside Rhapsody’s? of The Lexington Rhapsody’s Rainbow requests for a smoky martini and It’s not all about the chi-chi The Lexington, I had the espresso Tapatheo, 28, is the barman at The serve a perfect example. Heck, we cocktails. A cold Star or Club in a Monsoon Recipe – Rhapsody’s martini. Lexington, and worked from being even commissioned our own roadside bar like Lizzies can offer The lively Oxford Street venue - Pour 25ml grenadine in a cocktail from The Lexington. the best insight into nightlife Monsoon continues to succeed in a cleaner at Champs Sports Bar to Long Island glass and fill the Favourite spirit Next time ask for the ‘Time in Accra. Other favourite drawing the crowds. It’s a popular a mixologist with his own company glass with ice cubes. Out Accra! It is The Lexington, drinking establishments choice for the expat community, and base? training bar staff from Accra in - Add 25ml Bacardi Light Rum, alongside Firefly and include Bella Roma, its broad street-facing terrace Definitely Vodka. mixology. His international CV is 25ml Smirnoff Vodka, 25ml Santoku at the These are +233 and Monsoon. remains a hive of activity at Vodka mixes with impressive, having worked at the Southern Comfort on top of forefront of the cocktail Categorising bars in weekends. It’s not the cheapest place just about anything, Smirnoff Experience in New York, the ice. revolution in Accra. the most Accra, however, is no in town, but when you see the but can also be Ghana Rocks and Ludacris 02 - Pour 25ml Blue Curacao and And a bar that takes exciting easy task. Many of the icon-heavy interior design, the enjoyed neat or on Live. He’s also worked on TV in 25ml Lime Cordial in a blender, its time over an Old establishments here impressively stocked bar and the cut the rocks. Ghana making cocktails. add ice, enough to fill the Fashioned and a bars in also offer food (the of the clientele, you’ll understand blender one third. Blend all Bloody Mary is one Accra best of these are why. DJs play Friday and Saturday IN ASSOCIATION WITH SMIRNOFF together until the ice in nice that also invests time listed in the night. With three restaurants on site and smooth. on the menu, design and vibe. It’s Restaurant section; see pp39-48), (including a teppanyaki kitchen and - Pour the blended concoction no surprise these, along with so the ones we’ve listed here are a sushi outlet), there’s good food to Join us at in the Long Island glass. Add Republic (which has some brilliant the best places in the city where be had too. www.facebook.com/ two straws and garnish with a cocktails mixed from palm wine you can order a beer or cocktail 41 Cantonments Road (Oxford SmirnoffGhana orange wheel. – a local brew), are the most without feeling obliged to order a Street), above Osu Food Court (0302 exciting in Accra right now. meal as well. Firefly Lounge Bar 782 307). Open 6pm-late Mon-Sat.

34 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 35 NEW Republic Bar & Grill And don’t be surprised if you see Music is the defining factor at this hands-on manager Marcel Desailly fairly new little bar that has seen wandering about the complex when highlife legend Ebo Taylor pass he’s in Ghana. through its doors. Album covers and Cotton Street, East Legon (0302 521 black and white photos of music 851, www.lizzysportscomplex.com). stars adorn the walls as Ghana’s best music blasts out – live too on the Accra Mall & Spintex Road terrace; check out the Facebook page Rhapsody’s and Twitter account for details. But Rhapsody’s is close to both the the food is making waves as well – airport and surrounding hotels, the cassava chips are a fabulous ensuring the South African chain accompaniment for a caipirihna gets a steady supply of expats and made from traditional palm wine, moneyed locals to sample its and the Fire Go Burn You pepper extensive drink and cigar selection. soup and Ye Ye Goat soup for GH¢18 There are two halves to the interior is superb value for something this – an informal lounge, complete with tasty. One of the most happening panel-lit horseshoe bar and football Bars, Pubs & Clubs Bars, bars in Accra right now. on widescreen TVs, and a white- 3rd Lane, off Oxford Street (024 tableclothed restaurant with padded 631 4044, facebook.com/ Recommended wall fabrics. Things crank up a RepublicBarGH, @TheRepublicGH. notch on Fridays and Saturdays Open noon-2am Mon-Sat; The Lexington when DJs spin tunes: expect sizeable 4pm-2am Sun. crowds, and be aware that you’ll The Lexington is billed as ‘Accra’s hottest concept bar and have to pay if you arrive post-11pm. Venus restaurant’, and the early buzz has further compounded this view – This is also a popular place for Quite a transformation at Venus bar. this is a place that knows good living. One of the key reasons to go business meetings. It’s always been popular, but the here is (halleluiah) great cocktails. You’ll find a well-made dry Shops 66-68, Accra Mall, Spintex recent refurbishment shows it has martini, plus a a wide array of creative mixed drinks, such as the Road (0302 823 148, seriously upped its game. It’s now a tequila, pineapple, and black pepper infused Lucky Lilly. The bar www.rhapsodys.co.za). Open hotspot by day for young travellers snacks are very, very good indeed. They include a mini cheeseboard noon-midnight Sun-Thur; noon-2am tapping away on MacBooks, with cornichons – see these guys know how to run a cocktail bar, Fri, Sat. enjoying a coffee, or a bite to eat but it’s hard to pick these out when the sliders with handmade buns from the reasonably-priced made in-house are so good. On the main dinner menu are fillet Santoku Lebanese-inspired menu in the steaks (with good-quality meat sourced from South Africa) and rack See picture review, page 38. air-conditioned bar, or outside on the of lamb. Its Friday evening half-priced happy hour (6-9pm) is a comfortable and leafy terrace – both popular post-work meet up. Popular at The Lexington are the Silver Lounge seem an age away from the busy fortnightly quiz nights, intimate concerts featuring Africa’s leading Silver Lounge is very silver indeed. intersection outside. By night, the artists, and the big-screen, HD projectors that show all the major Gleaming above the boutiques and cocktails and beer consumption sports fixtures from around the world. It’s also open for breakfast, homeware outlets of Accra Mall, the ramp up and Venus becomes a really and who couldn’t love a place that has a breakfast cocktail menu. latest offering from Silverbird lively bar. 40 Ring Road, Paloma Shopping Arcade (0240 959 406, 0544 346 entertainment is a stylish cocktail 11th Lane, off Cantonments Road 911, www.thelexingtonaccra.com; Facebook page). Open 5pm-close haunt clad in a vast array of metallic (Oxford Street), (0302 782 250, Mon-Fri; 10am-close Sat & Sun. shades. One of the more pungent is www.bybloshotelghana.com). Open Income Tax, a heady mix of gin, 9am-1am Mon-Thur; 9am-3am Fri, martini rosso, dry martini and Sat; 4pm-1am Sun. anyone else with a nose for a drink in East Legon orange juice. For classic fizz, there’s a pleasant surroundings. The Lizzy’s Sports Complex good selection of champagne, Adabraka & Asylum Down eponymous Robi amiably presides This is Marcel Desailly’s impressive including a bank-account-emptying The Lexington over the drinking. Upstairs is a more sporting complex. The sports bar Ace of Spades for GH¢1,500. And, of See picture review. relaxed affair, where the open will likely attract the big names who course, no self-respecting Accra bar kitchen cooks authentic Dutch live in East Legon, as well as would be seen dead without the Labone snacks such as bitterballen members of the corporate league obligatory flat screen showing the Robi’s Dutch Pub (meatballs), sausages and chips. who play on Friday and Saturday football. There’s no chance of missing Robi’s Dade Street, Labone (024 526 3582, nights. The bar overlooks a pool and First floor, Accra Mall, Tettah Dutch Pub – its bright orange façade www.dutchpub.com). Open noon- a couple of the five-a-side pitches, Quashie and Spintex Road (0302 (what else?) shines like a beacon for 10am Mon-Thur; noon-midnight but eyes are more likely going to be 823 040, www.silverbirdghana.com). homesick Dutch, and pretty much Fri; 3pm-midnight Sat. on the screens for the big games. Open call for details.

Sweetie’s Although a bit of a distance beyond Accra Mall, this multifaceted venue is the perfect location for a quiet sophisticated drink in the downstairs bar. There is also a quiet VIP area, with modern African soft furnishings. The musicians, when they are in, are often of the jazz or traditional highlife ilk. Off Spintex Road, just before the Airport Hills entrance near the Lister Hospital. Open from 5pm until late Tue-Sat. Clubs Aphrodisiac The Dzorwulu venue has been open since late 2009 (it was previously in Venus Airport Residential) – Thursday,

36 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights Cinderella’s Rockstone’s Office Twist are free for ‘suitably attired ladies’ Being located right next to another This bar is owned by ‘Godfather of Twist has been extended to include a (!)before 1am. Music varies from Accra hotspot, Rockstone’s Office, Hiplife’ Reggie Rockstone. Reggie has dancefloor and DJ booth inside. The evening to evening: there’s rock and Cinderella’s sports a cosy VIP and succeeded in creating a kind of hip bar caters to an upmarket set, who ragga on Thursdays, R’n’B and sometimes-raucous atmosphere. The hop casual environment, so alongside loiter around the outdoor patio of the bashment on Fridays and highlife/ management are very open to the white leather sofas and large garden. hiplife on Sundays. Saturday is ‘Old takeover nights. bum-grinding beautiful people there’s Number 8, 5th Circular Road, Skull Nite’. DJs are on rotation. Osu Avenue, off Ring Road behind a relaxed outside terrace and an opposite Alisa Hotel, Cantonments Check the website for details. Police HQ (0262 686 852, easy-come dress code. There’s often (0302 772 179, www.headlines.gh. 35 Nii Badu Street, Dzorwulu (0302 [email protected], live music on Wednesdays and it com). Open 4pm-12am Tue-Thur; 766 738, www.clubaphro.com, Facebook page). Open from 8pm occasionally hosts the Bless the Mic 4pm-2am Fri-Sat. Facebook page). Wed-Sat. Admission GH¢5-10. collective (Facebook page). But it’s at weekends when things Exel really get going, with booming hiplife Exel is an upmarket club for the Smirnoff’s picks carrying the crowd through to 6am. baller set – come heavy or not at all. His GrandPapazz is next door – a The club cultivates an air of The best places in Accra to VIP only area. But most people will exclusivity. There’s a pleasant end up on the terrace at some point. atmosphere throughout the weekend. Bars, Pubs & Clubs Bars, get a perfectly mixed cocktail Near Police HQ, behind Japanese Near Nyaho Clinic, Airport Embassy (244 679 057). Open Residential. Open from 9pm-late The Lexington Why? Expertly trained 5pm-late Wed-Sun. Fri-Sat. 1mixologists blend inventive house cocktails as well as perfectly mixed classics. They use only the finest quality ingredients. It’s worth mentioning the bar snacks here are very, very good. What’s the vibe? The Lexington is a bar of two halves – a chilled out bar area with banquette seating where you can grab a good meal, or a glitzy area where the tables are moved as the dancing fire up. What to order? Mixed Berries and Basil Splitter: berries, lime, Smirnoff, syrup and basil.

Santoku Why? Not only is it the classiest 2bar in Accra, it’s also home to the best restaurant. But we care about the drinks – there are some astonishing blends here using sakes and champagne mix by master mixologists. What’s the vibe? The bar area and terrace is a classy and relaxed placed for a pre-dinner drink, or somewhere to come just to enjoy a really superb drink. What to order? Asian Collins: Cardamom- infused bourbon, citrus, mango, served long over crushed ice and finished with cracked black pepper.

Firefly Why? Not only is its Osu location 3handy for a night out, this dark, classy bar is small and perfectly formed. The international team behind the bar have put its cocktails at the forefront of its bar scene. What’s the vibe? DJs spin an eclectic mix of lively music from around the world. Either sit back and enjoy excellent burgers, or hang around the bar. What to order? A Moscow Mule

Rhapsody’s Why? Well-trained staff 4conjure up some fabulous house drinks, as well as all the classics. What’s the vibe? A well-mannered sports bar. Recommended There’s a quiet dining area to enjoy the excellent South African meats on offer, but most Santoku congregate around the horseshoe bar sipping on cocktails. Since opening, the bar at Santoku is fast establishing itself as a What to order? Rhapsody’s drinks destination in its own right. Alongside the amazing food (see Blue made up of sour mix, p41), is one of Accra’s best offerings of cocktails. They retain the Smirnoff vodka, gin, blue same international standard as the food. While the mixologists can curacao and topped with sprite. turn their spinning hands to the classics, it’s the signature cocktails that are of real interest. Original creations worth sampling include Pom-Fashioned (featuring Havana añejo especial rum, pomegranate molasses mixed with apple and lychee juice, a dash of Angostura IN ASSOCIATION WITH SMIRNOFF bitters shaken and served short over ice). Other drinks include award-winning sakes, Japanese whiskies, and the best wine list in Join us at the city. Ground Floor, Azure, Villagio Vista, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange www.facebook.com/ (0544 311 511, www.santoku-restaurant.com). Bar & lounge open SmirnoffGhana 5pm-1am daily; restaurant 6.30am-midnight.

38 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 The spice of life Ghanaian food is fabulous. From grilled fresh fish with spicy sauce to the West African classic jollof rice, you’ll never tire Restaurants of eating your way through the great Ghanaian menu. Here & Cafés are a few dishes to get you started

Groundnut soup & fufu Star beer Kontomire & rice The nuts ground in this dish are peanuts (if you Along with Club, This is a truly delicious dish, bursting with want to do it at home – that’s a lot of peanut Star beer is the peppery flavour. There’s usually the choice butter), but that’s not the overwhelming flavour. taste of Ghana. between beef or fish that is heavily seasoned This is a delicious blend of ginger, garlic, tomato, No meal is and cooked until meltingly tender. It’s then hot pepper, chicken, or guinea fowl (as in this complete without mixed with loads of spinach (the key picture). It comes in a huge bowl, like this one an ice cold beer. ingredient), fried onion, dried ground shrimps pictured at Buka, with fufu, a sticky, starchy ball (a common seasoning), and meat stock, then made from pounded cassava, yams or plantains. simmered. Served with rice or boiled yam. Take a small bit in your hand and dip in.

Peppered Gizzard Jollof rice Kelewele This side dish is popular in In a previous issue of Time Out Accra, one food Nom, nom, nom. Salted and and Ghana. It is author described jollof rice as ‘the little black peppered plantain chips. Can essentially marinated chicken dress of Ghanaian cuisine’. Few doubt it’s the there be anything else so gizzards, grilled with onion, hot most popular. So ubiquitous is it, they serve it moreish? These are a delicious peppers, parsley and lots of in fried chicken joints instead of chips. The rice addition to any Ghanaian meal. spices. Cooked well, it’s one of is cooked in a spicy sauce (rather like a paella), And the good news is, there’s a the surprise dishes of a Ghanaian and it’s the sauce’s ingredients that give it a vast menu left to try. menu. Make sure to order a side. lip-tanging flavour.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 39 the folks at Chase (see p43) put this Dynasty Restaurant Chinese Little Sunshine Salad Bar Osu Eating out in Accra right in December 2012. The Osu For almost 20 years, Dynasty has Indian & salads location should see it become pretty dominated Osu’s fancier eating It’s tempting to say that Little India Expensive Where and what to eat in Accra popular. Chase have done a scene. This upmarket and highly does the best salads in Accra. Au Grand Ecuyer French professional job at their Labone regarded Chinese restaurant attracts There’s little doubt that it has the Au Grand Ecuyer is primarily a location and this seems to have a steady flow of business people and broadest selection – there are 29 French continental restaurant. ating out in Accra can be carried through to El Paso with the young wealthy lovers with its different varieties in all, and portions French-African owned and operated, as cosmopolitan an affair service. It’s pretty much what you’d authentic cuisine and slick service. are generous. As well as its salads it serves continental cuisine with a Eas you desire, with the expect from a Tex-Mex style Alongside the usual suspects on an (split into seafood, vegetarian and profound twist of local flavour. The city’s growing assortment of Mexican restaurant outside of extensive menu are some interesting chicken categories), there’s also an seafood-laden menu has various nationalities making their mark Mexico – tacos, burritos, fajitas, but dishes including Shu Maid Peking assortment of curries and wraps simple recipes prepared and on its culinary scene. Prominent there’s also pizzas, steaks and dumplings and braised sea that are very popular with expats. Restaurants & Cafés presented like home cooked meals. Asian and European influences whopping burgers (GH¢35). It’s not cucumber with seafood hotpot. 11th Lane (0302 780 599). Open Try the grilled lobster or the popular in particular give plenty of that cheap, but there are some good Oxford Street, and 5th Lane (0302 9am-5pm Mon-Sat. Main courses grilled tilapia. choice – from aromatic South lunch specials. 775 496). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm GH¢8-15. Off Ring Road, near Danquah Indian sauces to freshly made 14th Lane, off Cantonments Road daily. Main courses GH¢12-30. Credit Circle, Osu (0302 768 643, 0244 crêpes. But however welcome this influx of foreign flavours, nothing (Oxford Street), behind Koala MC, V. NourishLab Smoothies Café 153 975). Open 11am-midnight comes close to outshining Ghana’s home-grown dishes and ingredients, Supermarket, Osu (0302 763 This smoothie bar in the heart of daily. Main courses GH¢10-25. devoured in abundance everywhere from fine restaurants, such as the 220054 633 3444, facebook.com/ Firefly Lounge Bar Osu is good for health-conscious fabulous Nobu-styled Santoku (see p41), to roadside shacks. Chaseelpaso). Open 11am-11.30pm International folk, or those who haven’t seen a Le Magellan Restaurant French A very popular lunchtime dish is waakye, a medley of refried beans, Mon-Thurs, Sun; 11-1am Sat, Sun. While the dim lighting and pumping piece of fruit for a couple of days. Le Magellan is a good dining-out rice, meat, fish and spicy sauce best sampled at long-established street Main courses GH¢20-35. tunes advertise it as a drinkers’ There’s a wide selection of

Restaurants & Cafés choice, particularly in the evenings stalls such as Katawodieso (see p44) and Auntie Muni’s (see p44). hangout, Firefly Lounge Bar also has smoothies made with milk and when it seems that business More upmarket places to get some excellent traditional food are the Country Kitchen Ghanaian a comprehensive international menu yogurt. It only takes a couple of colleagues, friends and couples enjoy relaxed and quiet Asanka (see p44) and Buka (see p40). You would have thought, judging by to accompany its premium spirits. A minutes to get one and they come winding down at the end of a day. Street food can be lively. Although the level of cleanliness is reasonably its clientele of government officials, selection of tapas is a tasty and swift thick and full of goodness. Service from polite staff is well good – vendors are always washing their hands – it remains a the occasional tribal leader and even re-fuel for barflies, as is the selection Particularly good is the new selection practiced, and the menu reflects the calculated risk. What should be fine, however, is grabbing a coconut. the Reverend Jesse Jackson (whose of Middle Eastern dips (GH¢18-28), of guava and passion fruit options. fact this is one of the more upmarket They’ll chop the top off so you can drink the milk there and then, and picture in the restaurant hangs in with crisp slices of French bread for The bar also offers basic snacks: options for dining out in Accra. then they’ll open it so you can eat the meat. A coconut should cost pride of place) that Country Kitchen ladling fresh hummus, baba there are salads in take away boxes Ring Road, East Accra, near Osu’s GH¢1. Avocados are also GH¢1. Bananas are around GH¢1 for 4. is an upmarket joint. However, the ghanoush and labne. Mains include and quiches and pies. There is free Danquah Circle (0302 777 629). Another popular lunchtime dish you’ll see on the roadside is kenkey, main appeal here is hearty home steaks and Spanish classics such as New wireless access. Open noon-3pm, 6.30pm-11pm with fried fish and hot pepper sauce. Vendors will put it in a plastic bag cooking that remains true to saltimbocca. The fries are the perfect Behind Eye Emporium, Off Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat. Main for you. It costs between 50p to GH¢1. A sachet of water is 10p. Ghanaian classics. The atmosphere alliance of crisp and fluffy, and the Santoku Restaurant & Bar Japanese Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) courses GH¢12-30. Many Ghanaians have their main meal at midday, meaning the is as relaxed as the staff, but the food goat’s cheese croquettes are as (0243 939 855). Open 8.30am- Western habit of rushing out for a quick sandwich or salad is only just is freshly cooked. Fufu, banku and wonderful as they sound. As a Santoku is the best restaurant in Ghana right now. There are other 10pm daily. Mid-Range beginning to be popular through places like Little Indian Sunshine Bar jollof rice each come with a choice of sophisticated nightspot, Firefly is pretenders to the throne opening up soon, but the blend of incredible Arlecchino Gelateria Italiana (see p41), and cafés such as Deli France (see p48) and Café des Amis chicken, beef, mutton or fish, usually faultless; as a restaurant, it has some food, effortless service, and truly well-designed surroundings make Safari French Restaurant & This ice cream outlet and snack bar (see p44). Eating out in the evenings, Ghanaians tend to head to ‘red fish’. The larger grilled tilapia real strengths and sophisticated this a cut above the rest. Firstly, the food. Think Nobu, and you’re Pizzeria French & pizzas is probably the best place to get a restaurants at around 8.30pm – however, by 11.30pm most places will comes with banku, a bowl of water, flavours, but the menu could benefit just about there. In fact the team from Nobu London helped head The Livingstone Safari restaurant is decent ice cream in the city. There have closed their doors or will be turfing you out. washing up liquid and a lack of from a couple of tweaks to back up chef Mohammed Ayres with the menu, and the results are excellent. now in bespoke premises lifting its are more than 20 flavours that look cutlery. It offers a take-away and the price tag. Japanese chef Daisuke Yoshizaki creates beautiful-looking plates of status as one of Accra’s best French sumptuous in the cabinet (although delivery service. 11th Lane, Embassy Road (0302 food that deliver on the taste front too. Santoku’s signature dish is restaurants even higher. The new there’s often a few empty spaces). Bella Roma Italian Ghanaian and Nigerian specialties 2nd Ringway, Roberto Road (0302 777 818, Facebook page). Main pan-fried scallops with foie gras and orange tobiko – a stunning plate terracotta building is light and airy, The Italian owner has also added Fresh and bold Mediterranean – dishes include okra stew and eba (a 229 107). Open 7.30am-9.30pm courses GH¢20-40. Open 5pm-late filled with the decadent flavour of the ingredients, yet fresh and with a bar area and tables at specially made ice cream for flavours reign at this friendly Italian dough ball eaten with stews). Service daily. Main courses GH¢9-25. Tue-Sun. light. The prawn tempura is light, allowing the prawn flavours to spacious intervals. The menu sits diabetics as well as interesting eatery. It’s recently been expanded, is improving during busy lunches. come through, and the tuna and salmon sashimi with ginger, garlic alongside daily specials, which can flavours such as cookie and tiramisu, and diners have a choice between an 10th Lane, near the old American DeliFrance Café Frankie’s International and hot olive oil that just lightly cooks parts of the sashimi deepens include dishes such as roasted figs mango and sesame. At GH¢8 for two indoor restaurant area, outdoor Embassy (0302 782 953/024 484 Previously One More, this location is An Oxford Street institution, the depth of flavour. Add in expertly mixed cocktails, design by with goats cheese and honey scoops, it’s not as cheap as nearby patio, or lounging on the banquettes 2464, thebukarestaurant.com). Open now a new branch of the excellent Frankie’s passes its hours drawing in Hubert de Givenchy (it’s all about the details), a seductive terrace scallops in provençal sauce, onion Frankies, but better. in the bar area. Patrons devour noon-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. café and bistro DeliFrance. See p48 a steady supply of snack-seeking bar that mixes some of the most inventive drinks in Accra soup (of course), and for mains 674/2 Cantonments Road (Oxford Italian staples packed with Main courses GH¢20-30. for a full review. locals. It’s ideally placed to cater for (including the only place you can get sake), and it’s a heady and moules et frites and boudin noir de Street), opp Shell petrol station (024 combinations of smoky black olives, 11th Lane, off Cantonments Road those gotta-grab-something hedonistic combination. There’s also a private dining room that campagne. There are also pizzas 541 0403, www.arlecchinoicecream. rich cheese, tender artichokes, NEW Chase El Paso (Oxford Street), Osu, immediately moments – whether that’s a seats 18. Santoku is an innovative restaurant, especially for Ghana, from the kitchen’s wood-fired oven, com). Open 6am-midnight Mon-Sat; full-bodied passatas and cured It’s amazing there hasn’t been a adjacent to Venus. Open 9am- mid-morning ice cream, a lunchtime and we look forward to the team’s next development. as well as pasta dishes. 11.30am-midnight Sun. meats. Mains include tagliata with Mexican restaurant before now, but midnight daily. mixed grill or a post-bar burger. In a Ground Floor, Azure, Villagio Vista, Tetteh Quarshie Interchange Off Cantonments Road (Oxford parmesan and rucula (GH¢45), but seperate section is The Lounge, a (0544 311 511, www.santoku-restaurant.com). Bar & lounge open Street), opp Koh-i-Noor Indian most people opt for the pizzas little lounge and bar serving a 5pm-1am daily; restaurant 6.30am-midnight. Main courses GH¢25- restaurant (024 648 5135, Critics’ (GH¢28 on average), which are slightly different menu of 100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. [email protected]). Open superb – giant bubbling discs continental dishes to the main noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm Tue-Fri, Sun; choice liberally topped. For a loaded treat, restaurant. It’s a quiet place for a 6pm-11pm Sat. Main courses the Quattro Stagioni has mushrooms reasonable sandwich or chips with a Off Salem Road, near Papaye (0243 The Health Bar, Pippa’s Health GH¢16-35. Credit V (3.5 per cent Restaurants and artichokes aplenty, and the beer in the afternoon, when the cold 255 705, 0302 785 252). Open Centre, 5th Ringway Link, Ringway surcharge). piquant Diavolo is a simple pleasure air-conditioning offers respite. from 6pm daily. Main courses Estates, (020 605 9985). Open of salami drizzled with chili oil. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) GH¢9-20. Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; bookings Mamma Mia Italian Santoku Astonishing Japanese Off Cantonments Road (Oxford (0302 773 567, www.frankies-ghana. only Sat&Sun. Main courses Set around an agreeably rustic 1dishes in the finest of Street), behind Frankies (024 7474 com). Open 7am-11.30pm Island Spice GH¢15-20. courtyard some five minutes’ walk surroundings. See p41. 007). Open 6pm-late. Main courses Mon-Thur, Sun; 7am-midnight Fri, Jamaican from Oxford Street, Mamma Mia GH¢9-20. Sat. Main courses GH¢9-25. Is there any better Top tip! Leonardo da combines quality thin-crust pizzas La Chaumiere Great French dish than a true Hands on Vinci’s Italian cooked in a wood oven with an 2food. See p48. Buka Ghanaian & Nigerian Heritage Indian Restaurant Jamaican jerk In traditional restaurants, This Italian bistro attractive setting, making it one of Conveniently situated close to the Indian chicken? Island Spice dishes are often eaten specialises in Accra’s best options for Italian food Buka The best place to get a centre of Osu, Buka is, without The Ghanaians are fans of Indian are purveyors of fine with the right hand. delicious pastas, a – there’s a selection of pastas. The 3traditional meal. See p40. question, one of the best lunch spots food, and Heritage often gets pointed Jamaican food, Water bowls are variety of meats and outside area has a trattoria-like feel, in the city. More often than not it has to as one of the best curry houses in catering for Ghana’s provided. a fully stocked bar. with rough-hewn paving, terracotta Heritage Authentic Indian food, the full tables to show for it. Set on the capital. The atmosphere inside is sizable Jamaican The menu is varied. tilework and warm, simple decor. 4with good service. the first floor, there’s a sense of elegant and quiet, with some population and those who love Danquah Circle, Fourth Floor, Inside dining is also available. See p41. escape from the throng, with lively fabuously detailed Indian carvings the food, such as curried goat, beef Black Caesar Building (054 283 Behind SSNIT Trust Hospital (024 music and wraparound wooden on display. The food is equally patties, as well as a good selection of 5055). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm- 435 5000). Open 6pm-10.30pm The Lexington How to make trellises adding to the ambience. The pleasing, authentic and spicy. Service veggie food. Eat in (ping the bell for 11.30pm Wed-Mon. Main courses Tue-Fri; noon-10.30pm Sat-Sun. 5bar snacks gourmet. See p36. food itself hinges largely on Little India Sunshine Salad Bar is attentive, but relaxed. service!), take away or delivery. GH¢8-30. Main courses GH¢16-37.

40 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 41 Monsoon International meunière, red snapper and lobster, as Three upmarket eateries in one, all WHAT’S ON THE MENU well as steaks and other well known of which are likely to leave you international dishes. happily replenished. Monsoon’s Navigating the Ghanaian food 4 Kakramandu Street, Cantonments centrepiece is its swanky bar – a (0302 762 228). Main courses plush spot that wouldn’t look out of GH¢29-45. Open 11.30am-2.30pm, place in any city. The main à la carte The basics Gari foto A cassava and egg 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Credit selection offers a good choice of Aduane Food dish mixed with other ingredients AmEx, MC, V. seafood and meat options, while on Akawadu Banana Groundnut soup Spicy stew the outside terrace there’s access to Amadaa Fried plantain with meat or fish Le Must French two smaller eateries – a sushi Ampesi Plantain and yam Jollof rice Spicy rice with meat For 20 years, Le Must has been a parlour and a teppanyaki restaurant. Banku Corndough or chicken force in the upmarket eateries of Restaurants & Cafés 41 Cantonments Road (Oxford Bodie Plantain Kelewele Spicy fried plantain Accra, with diners including Jacques Street), above Osu Food Court (0302 Borodo/Panu Bread Kenkey Steamed fermented Chirac, Will Smith and Stevie 782 307). Open 6pm-late Mon-Sat. Enam Meat cornflour balls Wonder. For a while Le Must was Main courses (from á la carte menu) Gari Cassava dried or grated Klako Deep-fried plantain dough losing out to some of the newer GH¢16-35. Momone Sun-dried fish Kokonte Cassava dish high-end restaurants, but its recent Nsuomnam Fish Kontomire Cocoyam leaves refurbishment should put it back Noble House Chinese Chinese Ode Yam Kyinkyinga Beef with vegetable firmly on the business/diplomatic Noble House is one of the longest- sauce circuit. The food remains as good as serving and most popular Chinese Breakfast & snacks Omo tuo Mashed rice balls with it ever was, with its signature dish, restaurants in Accra. It is affiliated Boflot Doughnut stew or soup the Lobster Thermidor (GH¢54), still with the equally popular Heritage Ekwei bemi Boiled sweet corn Palava sauce Spinach or leaf a favourite. It’s also the place to find Indian, and both are known for their kernels sauce your Baron P de Rothschild bottles good service. Both also blend the Koko Corn or millet porridge with Red red Spicy bean stew (GH¢115), along with a fairly cuisines, so you’ll find Indian dishes milk or sugar Shito Hot pepper sauce, reasonable selection of wines at too in its telephone book-sized menu. Nuhuu Cocoyam porridge sometimes with prawn or fish more affordable prices. Also updated There’s a new branch that has Rice water Rice pudding Suya Spicy kebab in the refurbishment are the outdoor opened in Kumasi. Tatale Pounded and fried seating areas (with barbecue), and Near Ebenezer Presby Church, Salem Dishes plantain two private dining rooms seating up Road, Kukuhill (0302 785 151, Abenkwain Waakye Rice and red beans, to eight and 14 respectively. There’s 0243 439035). Open noon-3pm, Fufu Pounded yam, cassava or often with meat, fish and spicy a decent quality outlet next 7-11.30pm daily. Main courses from plantain sauce door too. GH¢15. 28 Orpahan Crescent, (0302 785 731, www.lemust-france.com). Main Supreme International and you are pretty much there, and KFC Fast food courses GH¢30-54. Open noon-3pm, Supreme is the lightest and airiest the food is of similar quality. The Yes, this is a KFC. But as go, 6pm-11pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, café and restaurant in Osu, but it can chicken is very juicy, the jollof rice it’s one of the more eye-catching – MC, V. lack atmosphere. This is a has a bite, and there’s a selection of largely owing to a gigantic bargain continental café that does a little bit pepper and peri-peri sauces from bucket on a pole out front that glows Mid-Range of everything. There’s a patisserie mild to steam-coming-out-of-your- well into the night. The franchise Chase International and also an ice cream counter. The ears cartoon-style. Salad, coleslaw has been a huge success and there Chase is split into three areas: an bar in the centre serves the usual and other embellishments are are now branches in the outdoor patio, an indoor restaurant array of drinks, but most visitors available for side dishes. There’s Plus building in the North Industrial and the Lounge – an upmarket choose to sit down to a menu of also a selection of chicken burgers. Area and Marina Mall (see p49). restaurant and sushi bar. The food salads, burgers, pizzas and pastas. With prices from around GH¢12 Oxford Street (0302 963 086). Open in the café area starts from 7am 11th Lane, off Cantonments Road for chicken and chips, it’s a 11am-11pm Mon-Thurs; 10am-1am with breakfast, and it’s open until (Oxford Street), Osu (0249 993 reliable and quick option. Fri-Sun. Main courses GHc10. late serving salads, sandwiches, 993). Main courses GH¢10-30. Open 5th Lane, off Cantonments burgers (GH¢18), pizzas and 7am-11.30pm daily. Road (Oxford Street), Osu Food Court Ghanaian chicken dishes. The best opp Dynasty International bets are the Lebanese platters. The Zion Thai Thai Restaurant (0302 939 Top tip! Sitting directly below lounge has a separate, and more Find fragrant Thai dishes cooked by 045). Open 9am- Taking time Monsoon, Osu Food expensive, menu with pasta dishes a talented Thai chef at this lively 11pm Mon-Sat; Service in Accra can be Court provides a more and mains including lamb little eatery. The menu offers all the 10am-8pm Sun. Main pretty slow. Make sure to family-focused and brochettes and a seafood platter. Thai classics – from spring rolls and courses GH¢10-14. go with plenty of time, less smoky alternative Alongside is a wide range of sushi chicken satay to stir fries, noodle and not to arrive to its upstairs and sashimi. soup and a selection of curries – and Blue Gate hungry! neighbour. Take your Olooti Lane, off Josiah Tongogari there are plenty of vegetarian Ghanaian pick from Galito’s Flame Road, opp Labone Coffee Shop (0302 options, including a tasty starter of This legendary local restaurant, Grilled Chicken, Pizza Inn, 778 477, www.chasefastfoods.com). tofu triangles with sweet and sour although a classic ‘chop bar’ in every Chicken Inn and Creamy Inn. Open 7am-12.30am Mon-Thur, Sun; sauce and crushed peanuts. The respect, has some of the best banku 41 Cantonments Road (Oxford 7am-2.30am Fri, Sat. Lounge sweet and silky red curry sings with and tilapia in town. Upon arrival Street) (0302 783 444). noon-11.30pm Mon-Thur, Sun; coconut and aromatic basil leaves, roadside you’ll encounter a charcoal noon-12.30pm Fri, Sat. Main and a refreshing selection of tangy grill cobbled together from recycled courses GH¢12-25. Thai salads offer accompaniment. metal barrels. Labone & The praa gung in particular has a Papaye Road, near to Nyaniba Churcheese International great kick, with its steamed shrimp Estates (0302 765 151). Open from Cantonments This restaurant and play place, by and kaffir leaves doused in lemon 6pm daily. Main courses GH¢9-20. the Morning Star School, off the juice, fresh onion and chilli. Expensive Danquah Circle, is a handy stop-off Mission Street, Osu Papaye Down Chicken Republic Fast food Captain Hook’s Restaurant for families. For the children there’s a (0243 610 108, zionthairestaurant@ Rotisserie and fried chicken pieces Seafood bouncy castle and expansive games yahoo.com). Open noon-11pm are on offer as well as jollof rice Located in Cantonments near the room, plus other activities that will Tue-Sat; 4pm-11pm Sun. Main and salads. Goethe-Institut, Captain Hook’s is entertain most ages, while the courses GH¢10-20. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) Accra’s most popular seafood parents can hide in the restaurant (0302 767 268, www.chicken- restaurant for well-heeled residents. that serves Ghanaian dishes, as well Budget republic.com). Open 7am-11pm The decor is inevitably nautically as fried chicken and other items. Barcelo’s Fast food Mon-Thur; 7am-midnight Fri-Sun. themed, but tastefully so. Appetisers Healthy options include a juice bar, This branch of Accra’s favourite Main courses GH¢5-8. Other include lobster tail with smoked or a drink in the coffee shop. chicken chain also has a bakery and locations Spintex (0302 817 094); salmon and dill sauce, and snail 27 Orphan Crescent, North Labone an ice cream parlour. Think Nando’s Ring Road (0302 233 869). facon du chef. Mains include sole (0302 763525). Open call for details.

42 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 43 Headlines Hospitality African Labone Junction (0244 365 868). Café dez Amis Café The restaurant in Headlines Open from 7am daily. Main courses Everything at Café Dez Amis is Hospitality centre (there’s also a GH¢3-10. prepared from high quality function room, bedrooms and a salon ingredients. Reasonable prices and nearby) is a popular lunchtime spot. its central location make it a popular The buffet includes Ghanaian Adabraka, choice with the embassies, and when classics, as well as dishes from the president moves into Golden across West Africa such as yam, Ridge & Jubilee House soon business should plantain and fufu with a variety of rocket. The service is casual and stews. By night, there is a bar and Asylum friendly. It’s a good place for a nightclub called Twist (see p38). brunch in the breeze, a sunset Number 8, 5th Circular Road, Mid-Range supper or a long lunch with friends, Restaurants & Cafés Cantonments (0302 772 179, www. Afrikiko Ghanaian & pizza having meetings with colleagues or headlines.gh.com). Open 12.30-4pm This is a hard place to define. On absorbing a book by yourself. Café Mon-Fri. Buffet GH¢40. the premises is also the Thai Dez Amis offers live music, usually Island, Café dez Amis and Toros on Sundays. Labone Coffee Shop Café Tapas Bar but the Afrikiko 98 Independence Avenue (0302 782 Stick around long enough and you Restaurant is mostly based in a 937, [email protected], become a landmark in Ghana. Since pleasant garden (despite being Facebook page). Open 6.30am-10pm opening in 1995, Labone Coffee Shop next to a busy road, it does seem Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. has been the point from which other Recommended pretty tranquil). There’s an outdoor Labone shops and restaurants base bar that also serves barbecued Lexington International

Restaurants & Cafés their directions. This is a relaxed Nicolino’s Italian chicken, but most people come for On the former location of Champs, place, half inside and half outside on the pizzas baked in a bespoke The Lexington is a swish new a terrace (overlooking a car park), The best pizza in town? Despite stiff competition from Bella Roma wood-fired oven. On weekend ‘concept bar and restaurant’. It and is a common meeting point for a and Mamma Mia, the wood burning pizza oven at Nicolino’s and a evenings there’s frequent live specialises in (excellent) cocktails, quick beer and a snack before super tasty crust pip the other two. The set up is professional too, music, but there’s often music but it also does some fine food, moving to more upmarket the staff are efficient and courteous, but it’s the head chef blasting out at any time. including breakfasts. The dinner establishments. Humberto Dettori (who will be cooking at a new opening soon) that Liberation Road (0302 229 997). menu (from 5pm) has several salad Olooti Lane, off Josiah Tongogari has come to Ghana with real provenance – his previous posting was Open 11am-9pm Mon-Thur, Sun; and sandwich options, but the mains Road (0302 761 491). Open under two Michelin-starred chef Douglas Santi in Rome. Nicolino’s 11am-midnight Fri, Sat. Main are more impressive with dishes 9am-11pm Mon-Sat; couldn’t have a better location – it’s in the pleasant grounds of the courses GH¢8-20. including the classic of British Branche 9am-11pm Sun. Alliance Francaise (see p61), in a breezy, open-sided area. Pizzas gastropubs, such as beer battered such as a Libanese with halloumi and zaatar, or Toscana with spicy Asanka Restaurant Ghanaian sole fillet and seared beef fillet statues to keep you company). The There is also paella – including the Le Tandem Restaurant French sausage arrive on an artfully rustic piece of wood, but if you’re really This small restaurant has an which has been sourced from South menu includes Ghanaian dishes such authentic version (with chicken). Airport It’s always a good sign when hungry, try the Nicolino’s burger – a beef patty enveloped in pizza upmarket local feel about it. Under Africa – the burger is fantastic. The as jollof rice and red red, but also There are occasional live restaurant staff look upbeat and crust. Soon opening is a small terrace bar with a barbecue. It’s also low bamboo ceilings and with light bites menu is also very good – some Lebanese cuisine, kebabs and performances of flamenco and Residential happy. Le Tandem, with its amiable open for breakfast, which is Lebanese style. African motifs painted on the walls, the dishes are GH¢12 each and a chicken and chips, with large pizza Spanish music. service and slightly hidden-away Alliance Francaise, Liberation Link, Airport Residential Area behind the place has a relaxed family couple would suffice. You’ll find a to share. The breakfast buffet is Afrikiko Leisure Complex, Liberation mid-range East Cantonments location, seems to Opeibia House (0244 629 656). Open 7am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; atmosphere. The small menu is 100 mini cheese board with cornichons GH¢20. It is on the same complex as Road (020 094667, 024 288 0163, Branche International be a popular choice for politicians, noon-10.30pm Sun. per cent Ghanaian and one of the (perfect with that expertly-mixed dry the Grill restaurant, which serves www.torotapas.com). Open Branche, at the Golden Tulip hotel, is diplomats and similarly high-profile most authentic in Accra. The banku martini), and spicy chicken wings, steak in a sports bar-style setting, noon-11pm daily. Main dishes the kind of chic, understated hotel diners. The restaurant, with its and tilapia are particularly good but the small sliders are sensational but Pataase is the choice here. GH¢14-32. restaurant (or bar, lounge, call it warm red interiors, sits at the upper there’s a good selection of light meat and some fish, often eel. here, but most dishes are a decent – a juicy beef patty in a bun made in Paloma Hotel, 40 Ring Road (0302 what you will) that wouldn’t feel out end of the scale in terms of the lunches and snacks throughout the Customers queue up at a netted bar bet. For the uninitiated, the water house. Wow. We’re also pretty 228 700, www.palomahotel.com). Budget of place in any global five-star French-influenced menu. Imported day. More conventional menu items to pick from ingredients. Stringy bowls and liquid are to wash your excited about the breakfast menu Open 6.30am-10.30pm daily. Main Heavy Do Ghanaian property. There’s a full choice of options include beef with marrow include chicken and chips and noodles, hard-boiled eggs, various hands with once you have finished that has a Eggs Benedict (or courses GH¢8-20. Heavy Do chop bar is a well Ghanaian dishes, as well as a large and sautéed potatoes, confit of duck jollof rice. There are also vegetables and hunks of steamed digging in with your fingers. Florentine) and Huevos Rancheros, respected Ghanaian establishment international buffet, and from 6pm and veal escalope. sandwiches, wraps, paninis, meat tumble in the waakye (only Ring Road, next to Bus Stop plus some ‘breakfast cocktails’. The Thai Island Thai best known for its hefty portions of the à la carte selection includes the 6 Mankralo Street, East fajitas and salads. available on weekends) like an Restaurant and Bar (0302 220 930). Lexington is a very welcome option. This cosy restaurant is at the far end fufu and palm nut soup. Situated just likes of , beef Cantonments (0302 762 959). Main Number 78/5 1st Norla ungainly salad. The hub of Main course GH¢7-20. Open 40 Ring Road Central, behind of the Afrikiko Complex, offering a off of the hectic Kwame Nkrumah tenderloin and Atlantic lobster. courses GH¢10-25. Open noon-2pm, Street, Labone (0302 the assemblage is shitor, 8am-9pm daily. Paloma Hotel (024 095 9406, www. garden bar and restaurant with Circle, Heavy Do is an often-frenzied There are also regular themed 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. 770 834). Open a peppery condiment thelexingtonaccra.com). Open outdoor seating. Inside, however, it’s lunch spot well loved by Ghanaians nights, such as Texas BBQ on 7am-9pm Mon-Sat. Top tip! made of chilli, dried Khana Khazana Indian 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 10am-late another world. Lit only by lights and foreigners alike. The wide deep Saturdays. Food can also be taken Maquis Tante Marie African Credit cards shrimp and ginger. On In keeping with Accra’s penchant for Sat-Sun. Main courses GH¢12-30. within bamboo dividers, this bowls of spicy soup, fillingfufu and around the pleasant pool outside. It’s There are two branches of Maquis Zanzibar Although many places our last visit we saw a hiding away great eateries and bars, intimate restaurant is calm, cool and steamed meat are excellent options reasonably priced for a hotel Tante Marie. The newer is in Accra International take credit cards, it’s Bentley outside. Is it Khana Khazana is literally sat Orangery Crêpes and Salad Bar quiet. Duck is the most expensive to fill yourself up. restaurant with burgers around Mall, but the original Labone branch Located in the always worth checking better than behind a petrol station. What you International item on the menu, but there’s a wide Off Kwame Nkrumah Circle (024 GH¢25 and pasta around GH¢30. Its is the most atmospheric. All the residential area of the facility is working Katawodieso? See find really is surprisingly charming. Situated on Farrar Avenue, one of range of other meats, and tofu. The 608 1545). Open from noon daily. layout makes it a good place for a seating is open-sided and the tasteful Labone, Zanzibar is a before eating. Food Fight, p18 to A thatched dining area overlooked the oldest and most charming parts food is of high quality and Main courses GH¢3-15. business dinner. bamboo furniture and bright yellow small restaurant that find out. by trees shades tables clad in green of Accra, the Orangery offers justifiably popular. Golden Tulip Hotel, Liberation Road, tablecloths add to the exotic vibe of specialises in dishes in the Orphan Crescent Road (no and white checked table cloths, while excellent fresh salads and freshly Afrikiko Leisure Complex, Liberation Airport (0302 213 161, the place. The menu is definitively style of cooking from the region phone). Open from noon daily. Main in the adjacent open-fronted kitchen made soup including asparagus, Road (0244 613 677). Open Dzorwulu www.goldentulipaccra.com). Open African with authentic dishes after which it is named (however, courses GH¢3-15. hut the Indian owners sizzle up an pumpkin and mushroom. It’s well noon-10pm Mon-Sat. Main courses 6.30am-10pm daily. Main courses predominantly from Ghana and Côte there’s also an incongruous mix of abundance of South and North known for a wide variety of sweet GH¢22-45. Choco’Pain Café GH¢21-36. d’Ivoire, such as tilapia and banku, India, French and Thai dishes). This Katawodieso Ghanaian Indian cuisine. There are some and savoury crêpes and excellent Choco’Pain is a lovely little café with nyama choma (grilled, spiced meat, is a good location for a relaxing More of a street stall, Katawodieso Chinese and Thai options too, but as array of pastas and fresh seafood. It Toros Tapas Bar Spanish pastries, sandwiches and sundaes. Holiday Inn Accra Airport usually mutton) and fishyassa eating experience in pleasant is almost legendary in Accra. It they do such justice to their native also offers home made ice cream and The tapas revolution finally hits All its cakes are freshly baked on the The Holiday Inn’s location, right by (grilled in a tangy lemon marinade). surroundings. There’s a leafy serves excellent traditional dishes, it seems a travesty to opt for freshly baked bread and rolls. Accra, and with customary Latin premises everyday – no wonder the the airport, makes it a key 5th Norla Link near Metro TV outdoor area. Ghanaian food – and the queues at anything but. For an affordable Farrar Avenue, and Nsawam Road style. It’s a lovely, if unsubtle space past few years have seen people consideration for a quick lunch or a (0302 778 914, www. Dade Street (0244 890 990). Open lunchtime attest its success. Within lunchtime fill, there is a large (0302 232 988). Open 10am-10pm (all red and black with pictures of travelling fair distances to pick up business meeting, where you’re maquistantemarie.com). Open 11am-3pm, 5pm-11.30pm daily. a courtyard are bubbling pots of selection of dosas – savoury Mon-Sat. Main courses GH¢4-15. bulls on the wall), that lends itself to their breakfast. It serves crêpes and guaranteed a decent service. There 11.30am-11pm daily. Main courses Main courses GH¢25-40. banku, fufu and jollof rice. The pancakes with crispy edges and a jovial atmosphere. There’s a wide waffles, alongside more substantial are three eating options at the hotel: GH¢10-22. Other location Accra Mall speciality here, however, is waakye. spongy centres filled with the likes Pataase International range of dishes costing between lunchtime paninis. La Cabana Pool Bar & Restaurant, (0224 322 5181). Budget Walk in, take a seat if there is room, of paneer cheese and fresh onion. Set in a multilevel open courtyard, GH¢8-12, plus larger raciones from Osu Badu Street (020 9130 655, the Safari Lounge Bar and the Wiase Auntie Muni’s Ghanaian or order in the kiosk from one of Behind the ENGEN filling station, the Paloma Hotel’s restaurant is a GH¢14 and up to GH¢32 for Iberian facebook.com/pages/CHOCOPAIN/). Restaurant. The pool bar is a decent Melting Moments Café Although it’s practically a roadside waitresses and see what arrives. Kojo Thompson Road (0275834282, pleasant place for an early evening pork. Just pile them up and away Open 6am-8pm Mon-Fri; 7am-8pm spot with a menu of snacks – pizza, A pleasant café in Labone, Melting bar, Auntie Muni’s has earned a The restaurant has been at this www.khanakhazanaghana. meal once the sun has gone down. you go. The menu is classic tapas: Sat; 8am-7pm Sun. Other location chicken wings – but it’s the fish Moments has excellent pastries, formidable reputation in Accra for location for a quarter of a century getafricaonline.com). Open However, a thatched roof and palm croquetas, meatballs, chorizo in red Melcom Plus Complex, 2nd Palace specials that are the best bet. On bread and coffee. Although it’s an waakye (waa-chey), a mélange of and is known by everyone in Accra. 9am-10pm Mon-Sun. Main courses trees offer shade during the day wine, patatas bravas, octopus salad, Link Road, off Dadeban Road, North Friday nights it gets busy,. The established place for a long brunch, dark black-eyed beans and rice, with See Food Fight, p18. GH¢6-12. (there are some pretty odd life-size calamares, prawns in chili and garlic. Industrial Area (020 913 0655). Safari Bar, as well as guaranteeing a

44 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 45 ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Holiday Inn recipes from Head Chef Local flavours, Leslie Quarmyne Chicken/goat light soup

Ingredients international service (Soup can be made with either chicken or goat) hether President Obama dived in the pool technological advances you’d expect from a five-star - 500g diced goat or half a chicken, here, ate half a grilled spicy guinea fowl hotel – there’s a room for your bodyguard if you take diced with vegetables and enjoyed a fine cocktail, the presidential suite, you know, just in case. But there - 6 whole tomatoes W - half a kpakpo shito (or hot pepper) we can’t be sure. But it is where the leader of the free are two areas that set the Holiday Inn apart from the - 10g ginger world chose to stay on his 2009 visit to Ghana. This is rest: service and food. Good service, as regular visitors - 10g garlic a Holiday Inn by name, but not by nature. The Holiday will know, is hard to come by in Accra (and that’s being - 2 onions Inn Accra is one of the very the best accommodation diplomatic), but at the Holiday Inn, you can expect it - 50g tomato puree options Ghana has to offer the discerning visitor. to match American standards, with an added dose of - salt - 1 garden egg (substitute with an There are many reasons for this. African charm and a very wide smile. The staff here aubergine) Its location is unbeatable – it sits within minutes of are quick, friendly and discerning. That draft beer will - fufu, banku or rice the airport, a swiftly developing area that is, whisper arrive quickly, and your meal will be there in a shot it, the centre of both business and pleasure in Accra. – they also promise a sandwich in five minutes in the Method The rooms are superb – a cut above Accra’s usual Safari Bar if you need something quick. But chances 1. Wash ginger, garlic, chilli, one of the onions and three of the tomatoes, drain, offering. They’re clean, spacious and fitted with all the are you’ll want to linger over the food. It’s goooood. place in blender, season, and blend to a paste. 2. Place the mix on the meat and marinade for 10 minutes 3. Place the meat in a pan and cook gently for 10 minutes 4. Add tomato puree cook and cook for 10 minutes, then add 500ml of water and simmer until the meat is tender 5. Dice and add the remaining three tomatoes, the diced aubergine, and the last chopped onion. Cook for 30 minutes. 6. Remove onions and tomatos and pass it through the blender, then add to soup again and bring to a simmer. Season to taste. PMB CT97 Cantonments 7. Serve with fufu/banku or rice Accra, Ghana +233 (0)302 740930 www.holidayinn.com Yam oto [email protected] Ingredients - 1/2 piece medium yam Good food, good times and light meals designed for picking nights, the Pool Bar is buzzing – come but you may want to tuck into the grilled around the world. You’ll find international - 50ml palm oil There are three places to eat at the at on a balmy evening. On the menu, early to get a seat. mini calamari, oak smoked salmon, or classics such as a great Steak Diane, - 1 onion, chopped Holiday Inn: La Cabana Pool Bar & there’s always a seafood jambalaya, a tiger prawns in garlic, olive oil, lemon lobster and fish and chips, but the - roasted ground nuts Restaurant, the Safari Bar and Wiase steak sandwich (with a truly great Virgin The Safari Lounge Bar juice and caper butter. But to be honest, real treat is the Ghanaian food where - boiled eggs Restaurant. Each has a different vibe, and Mary tomato relish – we want the recipe), Stay in Accra long enough, and you the Lobster Newburg is our favourite: you’ll find a wider selection across one - seasoning different menu, but all have something crispy pizzas and chicken wings, the soon get to know the best bars. Take poached lobster with madeira and sherry mealtime than anywhere else in Accra. interesting and focus on quality. latter trumping those at ! But the speedy service, combine it with soccer reduction, finished with cream liaison. This is especially true of the Sunday lunch Method specials board is where the chef really on the TV, live but unobtrusive music Well, that and the Chicken Ballotine offering, where you’ll find a huge array of 1. Peel yams, cut into 1/2 inch cubes La Cabana Pool Bar & has fun. Picking the fish hoicked from from the grand piano of an evening and Chasseur. Ghanaian and West African dishes. And and wash. Restaurant the Atlantic each morning, depending a top-notch food selection, and you the best thing? You can just keep going 2. Boil yam in salted water until cooked, The Holiday Inn pool is a ridiculously on what looks good, Head Chef Leslie get a busy bar and the perfect place to Wiase Restaurant back and trying all the food. If you want strain, season and mash until smooth. inviting sight at any time of day, but as the Quarmyne then decides the specials.: hold a meeting. The place means a lot Everyone loves a buffet, but there’s to try some traditional dishes – and you 3. Add palm oil. sun is setting over the Black Star of Africa, they might include grilled barracuda when you’re conducting business – we’d nothing quite like this at your usual should – this is the place to do it. May we 4. Add chopped onion and seasoning, a quick dip followed by an ice cold beer steak, grouper, or a Ghanaian favourite, trust the Holiday Inn every time. What Holiday Inn. At every mealtime, the suggest the taste bud-popping goat soup then mash again. around the pool is almost perfection. snapper. Or perhaps the astonishingly of the menu? Well, there’s a sandwich hotplates and tables groan under the (see recipe right), the spicy kelewele and 5. Serve with roasted ground nuts and The Pool Bar has its own snack menu good grilled spicy guinea fowl. On Friday in under five minutes if you’re in a rush, weight of beautifully presented food from the red red. boiled eggs.

46 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 47 Restaurants & Cafés Main courses GH¢14-35. 7.30pm-11.30pmSat. Mon-Fri; noon-2.30 and7.30pm-11.30pm Woolworths (0302772408).Open 215 Liberation Road, opp For ithastobecreme brûlée. dessert lobster tailsinginger butter.include Lighteroptions onion soupaugratin. to awonderfully andsticky thick from acrispycuisine, Nicoisesalad the mainstay French isclassic –but with harissaandmintyoghurt asgrouper –dishessuch measure Africanflavours good for North There’sdecade. asmatteringof thana more diners for discerning dishes have cateringtoAccra’s been La Chaumiere’s sophisticatedFrench La ChaumiereFrench&African Mon-Sat. Maincourses GH¢18-40. Sun. Lounge open3.30-7pm 7.30-11.30 Mon-Sat; page). Open12.30-3.30pm, (0302823131,FacebookAirport Accra PoloClub, Liberation Road, among thebestincity. consistently good. is Theservice and ricotta–anditis spinach andraviolirisottos, gnocchi with unswervingly Italian,withgenuine Themenuis focal point. fieldisthe understated –thepolo exterior. It’s refreshingly andwood, bothontheinterior makingeffectiveAccra, useof themostimpressive in buildings of rises totheoccasion.It’s alsoone Polo Club’s field,IlCavalierePazzo inthecity,spots overlooking the themostprestigious In oneof Il CavalierePazzoItalian courses GH¢30-50. 930, www.holidayinn.com). Main City(0302740 19&20Airport Plot buffet isquiteanexperience. here The onaSunday lunchtime. Ghanaian cookinginonego, come you thebestof wanttotry dishes. If andwell traditional, cooked of interesting withavery widerange Sunday however, lunch, thatisreally It’s anddinnertime. lunch the impressive buffet every breakfast, Wiase putsonan Restaurant calamari andLobsterNewburg. The asgrilled some enticingfoodsuch sandwich infive minutes,offers 48 7am-8pm Mon-Sun. Volta Street (302770 233).Open calm allover thecity. are littleair-con-fresh of pockets and olive oil.Thesecafés parmesan bresaola, thelikes of include cafés. Baguettefillings of European are thestaplesatthisvery paninis baguettesandbulging crunchy Osu. Icedcupcakes, golden pastries, ( the MarinaMall,Supreme inOsu in everywhere, including branches taking over –there Accra are now DeliFrance are slowly seemingly DeliFrance Café review picture p41. See Bar Japanese NEW SantokuRestaurant& ) and next toVenus,see p43)andnext alsoin Mid-Range Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 OutAccrafor visitors Time Italian See picture review picture p44. See NEW Mon-Sat. Open 7.30am-7pm cuppacappuccino.com). 820 4441,www. residential area (024 Lumba, Airport Partrice Street, Off Volta3rd Ringway, Close off approach totheirlunch. thosewhoprefer for ahealthy menu. Thesaladsmake itafavourite salads,burgers andabreakfast of dishes,lots contains riceandchicken from sandwiches,Apart themenu baconandavocado version.cheese, chicken, thecalorific especially Sandwiches are popular,brunches. This caféserves and lightlunches Café Josie’s CuppaCappuccino noon-3pm, 6-10pm. 262 146).Open7-11.30am, Roman Ridge shoppingarcade (0244 Thursdays. Delivery available. onWednesdays choice la carte and menuofferedspecial alongsidetheà ingredients. There’s amid-week usingthefreshest local chef bythe café andbistro isprepared All thefoodonmenuatthisnew International Escapade Café/Bistro pleasant courtyard in the A&C intheA&C courtyard pleasant café/barina This isasuperior Luscious Temptation East Legon Main courses GH¢10-30. 762 791).Openfrom 6pmdaily. (0302762792,0302 Development opp Centre for Democratic Street, House No3,NorteiAbadio thefreshest ingredients. for The affable markets owner scours canbedifficulttolocate. Restaurant Michelangelo’sand Dzorwulu, Residential neighbourhood Airport home-like environment the between Situated inaconverted personal Osteria MichelangeloItalian Mid-Range Nicolino’s but you’ll need to check but you’llneedtocheck Many restaurants have Many restaurantshave meat-free options, meat-free options, Top tip! Vegetarians how they are how theyare prepared.

La TerrasseFrench 10pm Sun. Open 8am-lateMon-Sat;11am- www.ancsquare.com, Facebook page). 14 Jungle Road (054708921, some good sandwiches. relax andenjoyor pizzas,pastas, it’s name, cheesy atastefulplaceto Square Anddespitethe complex. great optionisRhapsody’sgreat Chicken One diningarea. There isaseparate platters andthelike. snack steaks, salads, burgers, offers of anarray design-led barstools. Themenu to suggest, sport from flatscreen trimmingsthatwould contemporary has thestylised and decor Rhapsody’s chain, African/Lebanese anestablished South of As part Rhapsody’s International Accra Mall The VenueInternational courses GH¢10-20. Open Tue-Sun noon-11pm.Main 176, www.laterrasse-creperie.com). Near theMJGrand Hotel(302544 andham. egg,moreish cheese and mushrooms, andasimplebut bacon,crèmefraiche combos include fillings. Savoury with allmannerof sweet andsavoury optionsstuffed authenticFrench –with crêpes of Legon whipsupawonderful array inEast eatery rustic This simple, and Sun.Maincourses GH¢15-35. noon-11pmSat 5pm-11pm Mon-Fri; [email protected]). Open 3323425, 0302505111, bridge, housenumber3(024 Adjiringanor Road, leftafterfirst Expensive The Venue place isnottheeasiest baked intheoutsidepizzaoven.

to find. Unfortunate, as its asits to find.Unfortunate,

particularly well done, wellparticularly done, one of the best thebest one of Pizzas here are also from the beaches. from thebeaches. pretty straight much and shellfishdishes, fresh fish selection of withapopular forte, isaparticular Seafood inthecity.restaurants Josie’s CuppaCappuccino

GH¢8-16. GH¢8-16. 7am-10.30pm Sun.Maincourses Sat; 7am-midnightFri, Mon-Thur; 933 784).Open7am-11pm ontocentrallooking courtyard (0302 Tetteh Quarshie andSpintex Road, well asburgers. andricecombinations,as chicken is inOsu.Itserves allmannerof Barcelo’s Theother inAccra. toopen foodjointwasthesecond fast thispopular inchicken, Specialising Barcelo’s Fastfood (0224 3225181). 1,Labone Link nearDDBMedia 5thNorla GH¢10-20. Otherlocation 11.30am-11pm daily. Maincourses Accra Mall(02243225181).Open and Côted’Ivoire. dishes predominantly from Ghana andmostly delicious, with authentic, ThemenuisAfrican, expensive. thepricesare slightly more some of serves but thesamefood,although thetwo (theotherisinLabone), of isthenewer Mallbranch The Accra Main courses GH¢20-52. co.za). Open 7.30am-10.30pmdaily. (0302 772520,www.legacyhotels. No 1LaBypass, Labadi Beach Hotel at GH¢52. GH¢48, uptoafilletsteak wholelobsterat options including fish somesuperb options include nicer).Theàlacarte ismuch pool baroverlooking theopen (but the and dinnerinthemainrestaurant still good. There’s abuffet atlunch undergone recently, somechanges are althoughhaving restaurants, Its smoothservice. for reputation Accra’s nicesthotels,witha The Labadi Hotelisoneof Beach International Labadi BeachHotel late daily. Maincourses GH¢20-40. www.gbhghana.net). Open12.30pm- Labadi Beach (0245353610, music atweekends. soup. There isoftenhighlife peanut and chicken delve into abowl of much-loved Royal.Palm Try thesimplebut inLa thebestplacetoeat easily distinctive flavours.buffet The is Ghana’s most sample someof make adelightfulplaceto grounds RoyalLa Palm Hotel’s expansive tables of with beachside attheback This attractive restaurant thatched Royal BeachHotelAfrican Ghanaian VillageatLaPalm Beach Maquis TanteMarieAfrican Credit V. Sat.Maincourses GH¢16-42. Fri, noon-2am noon-midnight Sun-Thur; www.rhapsodys.co.za). Open Road (0244337825, Shops 66-68,Accra Mall,Spintex sauce. andasweet-chilli jalapenos thighs skewered withspicy chicken isdeboned which Espetada Budget Expensive Mid-Range red red stew) and (bean

Shopping centres Accra Mall Clothing boutiques, global sports brands and high-end furniture outlets populate the ground floor of Ghana’s largest shopping mall. Glamorous African-inspired fashions Shopping fill the racks of Kiki Clothingsee ( p52) and a branch of African fabric specialists Woodin and Vlisco have a good range of prints. Also on the ground floor are familiar brands such as Levis, Puma and Swatch. A small food court includes fried chicken outlet Barcelo’s and upmarket bar and restaurant Rhapsody’s, and kids can let off steam in a central play area with a bouncy castle. Upstairs is the territory of Silverbird (see p62), which runs a well-stocked book and music store, as well as Ghana’s only multiplex cinema showing blockbusters, Nollywood and Ghanaian films, and now a new bar Silver Lounge (see p36). Tettah Quashie and Spintex Road (0302 823 040, www.accramall.com). Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. La Maison A&C Square Set in Accra’s prestigious East Legon residential community, A&C Square Fashion and design offers a mix of shopping, dining and entertainment – plus access to banking, health clinics and other The Ghana Fashion & Design Week showcases the depth of Ghana’s services. There’s a modern health exploding fashion scene club, Total Fitness Health Club (see p69) which has a swimming pool and children’s play area, pleasant ccra’s shopping scene has such as the oh-so-sophisticated Ambassador Hotel (see p74) is coffee shops and a good fruit and been evolving at a truly creations of Christie Brown, stacked with designer names and veg stall in the square. Aimpressive pace in recent glamorous Brigitte Merki and exclusive boutiques. Colourful Block 232, Jungle Rd, East Legon years, and this transformation is up-and-coming Love April for a designs can also be found online (302.515055, www.ancsquare.com). largely thanks to a burgeoning series of glammed-up shows. at Afrodesiac Worldwide (http:// Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; community of world-class clothing “We aim to give Ghana’s afrodesiacworldwide.com). 1-7pm Sun. designers who’ve been tantalising fashion industry an international the city’s increasingly fashion- voice and presence that it’s not Traditional souvenirs NEW Marina Mall savvy population with bold, had before. And as the industry Shoppers in Accra can also stock The newest shopping centre in contemporary designs and glitzy develops, and as Ghana develops up on affordable, well-made Ghana is Marina Mall in the new boutiques. as a country, we hope to create souvenirs, such as the socially ever-expanding Airport City area. Nothing showcases the new opportunities for responsible offerings from There are three floors of shops, and Ghanaian fashion industry’s latest training and promotion Global Mamas (see p53), a food court on the top level. There’s leaps and bounds more clearly within the fashion and many of whose products are a welcome branch of DeliFrance, as than the runaway success of last design scene.” from women-led well as fast food outlets including year’s inaugural Ghana Fashion & Vogue cooperatives around Maquis Tante Marie (see p44), a KFC Design Week (www.ghanafashion Designer shopping Ghana. Items include and Marinas, which sells burgers designweek.com) – a wonderfully To purchase your own Italia is a bold batik clothing for and kebabs. A large balcony stylish sartorial celebration that is personal collection of partner for all ages and colourful overlooks one of the more bizarre gearing up for a second helping Ghanaian styles, jewellery made from sights in Accra, a derelict Ghana this year on 11th-13th October. browse the rails of one the first recycled beads. For Airways plane. Big names in the “GFDW launched last year with of Accra’s increasing larger artisan pieces mall include Benetton and the a focus to put the emerging number of designer time there’s Wild Gecko French franchise Façonnable. Most fashion and creative industry in boutiques. In shiny Accra Mall, Handicrafts (p54), selling the likes of the ground floor is given to a Ghana on the international map,” you’ll find glitzy shoes and of ceramics, textiles and furniture. large supermarket, one of the best said a spokesperson for the event. accessories in Jil Boutique (see High-end treats for the home for foreign goods in Accra, as well as “We had some great support from p52), as well as the fun and flirty can be found in the decidedly Compu-Ghana, a technology store the international fashion industry, designs at Kiki Clothing (see p52). luxurious selection on show at the and pharmacy (054 916 3695), and including VOGUE ITALIA coming on Over in Osu, the popular Christie Joe’s Perspective Art Boutiques in kid’s international clothing brand board as a partner for the first Brown label celebrated the the Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Chicco. Also inside is a branch of All time in African history.” opening of its first boutique last (see p54) and Labadi Beach Hotel Pure Nature (see p54), a pharmacy, The 2013 event is promising to year, filled with its statement (see p76). But for those who fancy and plenty of men’s and women’s be just as dynamic and exciting as jewellery and bold African prints a full-on, no-frills Ghanaian fashion stores. There’s a children’s the last, with internationally-based (see p52). For an all-out deluxe shopping experience, delve into play area, but the video games are designers joining celebrated shopping experience, the shopping the heady and intense frenzy that the source of most of the racket. Ghanaian-based fashion labels centre at the Mövenpick is Makola Market (see p50). This is already a popular mall.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 49 Shopping 50 and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accrafor visitors Time shopping Accra’s best Critic’s choice household appliances,homegym TVs,plus from winestoflatscreen withjustaboutstore everything else, a very comprehensive department to Target. There’s it’s but noclothing Americans have thisplace compared Game DepartmentStore Supermarkets 3.30pm Sat. 8.30am- Open 8am-5pmMon-Fri; 221 784,www.melcomgroup.com). Road, Area NorthIndustrial (0302 Dadeban 2nd Palace LinkRoad, off melcomgroup.com). 0302 252984,024907636,travels@ POBox IndustrialArea, GP56, North (OtublohumStreet, Plus, Kaneshie companyatMelcom Contact thetour toany destination. packages tour Travel andTours Ltd.Itcanarrange isMelcom addition tothegroup Adum, 322045578).Arecent and Kumasi 2ndStreet, (Prempeh Tema Community1,0264922600) VodafoneLight Meridian,opposite Tema (Post Office Road, Traffic mall’s castle. bouncy onthe Children canbeentertained acoffee for Choco’Pain andpastries. domestic goods. There isalso householdand clothing, furniture, food, dominated byaislesof Vidya bookshop. Therest is of salonandasmallbranch beauty First Choice store, sports Gracefield Sony, include Distinctstores into one. individual thatsomehow stores meld concessionsand of are dozens thismall of floors Across thethree Melcom PlusComplex 8am-9pm Mon-Sat;9am-9pmSun. Open marinamallghana.com). Inn(www.near Holiday BypassRoad,Airport City, Airport See p54. isalovely,furniture spaceinOsu. airy 5 4 3 2 1 Osu location.Seep53. p53. See cloth. upasouvenirpick ofthis Make to sure garments. ready-made design. Seep52. high-end with prints bold African country. Seep49. the to brands international more Melcom have in addedbranches selection of homeware, art and selection ofhomeware, art Christie Brown Marina Mall Woodin La Maison Tebazile an A-list following, now inanew an A-list available by yardorin the clothing and accessories fuse andaccessories clothing to Accra’s malls has attracted mallshasattracted Accra’s to Gorgeous African fabrics fabrics African Gorgeous Unique jewellery with with Unique jewellery A carefully-curated A carefully-curated The latest addition The latest Sophisticated Sophisticated

to look for those hard-to-find items.to lookfor wines andhousehold goods. Where counter, areasonable selectionof South Africa.There’s alsoadeli from meats imported including foods, There’s awideselectionof retailer, Mall. intheAccra operates Africa’sCompanies, largest food The ShopriteGroup of Shoprite 11.30am-8.30pm Sun. 8.30pm Mon-Sat, com). Open8.30am- www.maxmartghana. Hotel (302783750, opposite GoldenTulip 37 Liberation Road, Mall, 0302518881). EastLegon (A&C Maxmart frames.candles andpicture Alsoat bedding, glassware, selection of and onthesecondisasmall phones, TVsandalittlecoffee shop, there’s jewellery, watches, perfume, brands. Onthefirstchocolate floor well-known withslabsstacked of aisles, alongsidestandsgenerously thedownstairs food the sideof sitto andcheeses with coldmeats andalargebakery delicounterfilled Agood supermarket. three-storey goods –canbefoundatthis from toelectrical global groceries – luxuries modern All mannerof Maxmart 37 Sun. Credit MC,V. 8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat;11am-8pm 665, www.koalashop.com.gh). Open Danquah Circle, Osu(0302765 VoltaResidential, Road off There’s inAirport anew branch electronicscookware, andlotsmore. foodstuffs, bakery, glassware, linens, Italsooffers outside. park you basic handy Osulocation–there isacar goods and international range of thankstoits withexpats popular Koala isalarge supermarket, Koala ShoppingCentre 11am-7pm Sun. 9am-8pmSat; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 740 000,www.game.co.za). Open Quarshie andSpintex Road (021 C11,AccraPlot Mall,Tetteh are soldinlarge quantities. theperishables of much by thefact mostthings,helped for pretty cheap equipment andchildren’s toys. It’s Vlisco

be great places to pick be greatplacestopick the Arts Centre can the ArtsCentrecan Makola Market and Makola Marketand up lively African up livelyAfrican Top tip! Fabrics fabrics.

(0302 679890).Credit MC,V. Car Park, Central Accra HighStreet, Other location nearCity 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat;11am-8pm. Residential (0249138568).Open Woolworths Building,Airport Plaza,60LiberationHorizon Road, rice milk. andhard-to-find soyafoods, teas and goodwines, including muesli,frozen foods and international selection of coming, for however,attraction isthe priced suitandshoes. Themain areasonably or golf for and shirt upalast-minuteslacks place topick section) andhomewares. Thisisthe agood (including children’sclothes Woolworth’s focusesonquality theSouthAfrican-owned store, Marks andSpencer. Like theBritish Woolworth’s isGhana’s answer to Woolworth’s Mon-Sat; noon-6pmSun. www.shoprite.co.za). Open 10am-8pm Spintex Road (244779577, Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie and n rpigofpassengers. and dropping off tro hubwithtro transport an important imagine canbeboughthere. It’s also Everything you couldpossibly vendors. stalls,shopsandstreet of Makola Market –asprawling chaos It’s Accra. like very much west of MarketKaneshie isontheroad out Kaneshie Market Markets textiles, shoes andanythingtextiles, else kitchenware, jewellery, sprawl of insistent, it’s aninitially bewildering entertaining. Hot,noisyand themost oneof certainly dynamic commercial hub. It’s asAccra’smight beseen most fMakola Market what enclose of and regional buses picking up up picking and regional buses However, if you wanted to see a you a wantedtosee However, if The loosely defined borders The loosely definedborders market for the experience market theexperience for

Makola Market (and it really is an (and itreally isan approx 6am-7pm daily. Ring Road West. Open Graphic Road and accessible. Market ismore Makola experience),

etboso nAcai you just if best bookshopinAccra Vidya’s isprobably Bookstore the Vidya’s Bookstore 9am-9pmSat. 9am-12am Fri; Open 9am-9pmMon-Thur; (0277 300800,www.sytris.net). MarkCofie House, Oxford Street sometimes comedy nightsonhere. thecity below. There are views of windowsone byfloor-to-ceiling for quietly piningfor. at Pullupachair EsquireMarie Claire you’ve or been andthatcopy of latest blockbuster books.proper-jealous You’ll findthe rich-and-make-your-neighbour- self-motivatingfor how-to-get-filthy- as indulgingtheGhanaianaffection novels andteen –aswell literature children’sfiction, classic books, bookcases offering popular of sizable asitisthough,withitslines collectionispretty The in-store the world solongasitisinprint. procure any bookfrom anywhere in tobeable claims Street to Oxford bookshop overlookingThis airy Sy Tris Credit V. 9am-9pm Mon-Sat;1am-9pmSun. www.silverbirdghana.com). Open Spintex Rd(0302823040, Accra Mall,Tettah Quashieand theworld. same day astherest of are onthe Newsweek inthestore asthe Economist, such toplay them.Magazinesmachinery asdoesthe space, shelf amount of DVDs make upanincreasing hiplife andotherAfricanmusic. highlife, selectionof as agreat aswell musicreleases international of the biggest assortment theothershelves. Ithas of up much booksmake Bestsellers andbusiness many self-publishedtitles. books relating toGhana,including there’s alsoareasonable selectionof – stores magazine musicand best thecity’s Silverbird remains oneof Silverbird 501 599).Open9am-5pmMon-Fri. Road, EastLegon4 Bamako (0302 novels. classic collection of University Press. There’s alsoa fromparticularly theOxford reference books, A good selectionof Mayan BookCentre magazines Books and approx 6am-7pmdaily. Independence Avenue. Stallsopen Kojo Road Thompson and over spread store several blocks. department open-air – acolourful the flow andenjoywhatitis itfor it’sthe camera, besttojustslipinto lieintowering heaps.Forgetpeppers andrainbowsof plastic buckets snailsfill sea down dead-ends, channel alleys clothes-filled you Evangelical bandsplay onstairwells, baskets. ceilings andhead-perched hawked shelves, racks, from floors, your cedimightconceivably buy, and Time and

Shopping Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accra for visitors 52 Time inthesamewaycontinue itsgrowth Closet label, andit’s itwill hoped the Eleanor’s carries theclothing of hard tofind. Most has actually been elsewhere inAfrica),somethingthat inGhana(andsoon quality clothing Closet istoprovide affordable behindEleanor’s The simpleidea Eleanor’s Closet 11.30am-4.40pm Sat. Open 11.30am-6.30pmMon-Fri; Embassy(0244033664). American 3rd Street, Osu, opposite theold sale. jewellery piecesfor hand-finished notable of array totheoutré.There’straditional alsoa presented rangesfrom stock the custom-made –andhercarefully canbe garments appointment, you make aprior Nilson –if designed bySwedish owner Nanna areand doesitwell. Alltheclothes doespretty justthat, Dreams much withtheAfricantouch’, clothing Self-billed asselling‘modern Dreams byNana 2.30pm Sat. 10am- 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; www.christiebrownonline.com). Open Ist Lane, Osu(0244418477, boutiques inbothAfricaandabroad. in stocked runways andbeen oninternational has appeared in2008thelabel waslaunched brand Sincethe elegance. and cocktail statement jewellery, chic business trends.wearable high-street Think Africanprintsinto incorporating Christie Brown in specialises premium andaccessories. clothing the stylish thingsinlife canbrowse venue where ladieswithaneye for isasophisticatedshopping store 2012.Thishigh-design in February itsfirst boutiqueinAccra of launch theofficial itcelebrated while, a folkfor excitingfashion been theChristieBrown labelWhile has Christie Brown Sun. Credit V. 11am-6pm 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; Residential (0302764974).Open Woolworths Building,Airport Plaza,60LiberationHorizon Rd., women. for beachwear summer tops,dresses and menandlight and swimwear for emphasis isonT-shirts, shorts through Africa.The expanding fromoriginally Australia, isnow brand, surfwear The international Billabong Fashion Open 9.30am-6pmMon-Sat. 781 005,www.vidyabookstore.com). CoastEmbassay,Ivory Osu(0302 Oxford Street, next to 18th Lane, off attheMelcomPlusComplex. branch children. There’s a allages of for about Ghana. There are alsobooks andsomegood magazines, books non-fiction andinternational travel books,novels, selection of interesting. There’s anexcellent inandfindsomething want topop

Kiki-branded T-shirtsKiki-branded are good batikdesigns.too, withcolourful children’s clothes a good selectionof available inMakola Market. There is fabrics of the amazingarray from herinspiration of takes much styles. confident contemporary She Africandesignsinto traditional yet wearable designsthatsculpt stage withbold on theinternational herprowessShe hasdemonstrated kaftans,bagsandshoes.traditional this boutiquesellsdresses, Run bythedelightfulTitiAdemola, Kiki Clothing Accra Mall. ShopG57, Other location 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. 9781, www.jilboutique.com). Open (Oxford Street) Osu (0244436 Cantonments Road 6th Lane, off also stocked. Shoes byItaliandesignerSilvana are brooches and bracelets. matching with asnecklaces such accessories withstones. There are adorned designed longdresses, many individually of kaleidoscopic racks accessories. Theshopoffers stylish Italianshoesandsparkly dresses aswell asaniceselectionof African-print colourful abundance of This ‘lifestyle boutique’hasan Jil Boutique Sat. Credit MC,V. 8am-1pm 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; Palladium (0302664129).Open between GPOWato Roundabout and 551/3 Asafoatse NetteyRoad, print fabrics. and madefrom topqualityAfrican are brightly coloured and garments both menswear andwomenswear embroideries. superb sells Thestore with is traditionallyAfrican,but Damaris The collectioninHouseof House ofDamaris 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Open com/pages/Eleanors-Closet). www.eleanorscloset.com, facebook. Plaza Hotel,Osu(0206123680, 1st RingwayEstates, opp. Alexander sunglasses, bagsandbelts. as such basics, aswell asaccessories daydresses for andnighttoallthe awoman’sselection for from closet; alivelyThis Osushopstocks have H&M andZara doneinEurope. 8771, [email protected]). 25 Abebrese Street, Osu(024437 most sought-afterdesigners. Accra’s rightly regarded asoneof designs arangefootwear. Heisquite fabrics andmaterials. Healso andedgesborderings inarangeof linen andsilkswithsubtle in withhismutedcolours Accra, Kwesi Gucciof or NtiisthePrada Kwesi Nti www.kikiclothing.com). Quarshie (0208174362, Accra Mall,ShopG39a,Tetteh that you come for. it’s but on thechest, herown designs quality andgo beyond asimplelogo internet orders (www.reneeq.com, orders internet is exclusively however inAccra, it together. For now the RenéeQ label andshe’ll put andruffle your colour canbecustommade– shirts T-shirts. herbespoke The particular attention,in caught our quickly the Trade Fair. Renée’s line clothing hercartoaboutiqueby of the back from Renée QBoatenghasexpanded cuttingedge fashion, world tooneof Having gone from thecorporate Renée Q noon-7pm Sat. 10am-10pm Mon-Fri; Spintex Road (0244366205).Open Accra Mall, Tetteh Quarshie and clothing. andsports trainers of There’soriginal. alsotheusualarray road, thisiswhere upthe topick the over mostly Accra, bythesideof you’ll thejerseys all While see team. Stars – theBlack of Puma make theshirts Puma com). Open8am-8pmdaily. Ridge (0302974166,www.mkogh. Centre, Ecobank Development North 2nd Ridge Link,Tabon Street, near tobefans. King happen Steviereputation. Wonder andDon are ahot hisclothes gaining Empire, Sudan, Ghana,MaliandtheSonghai Taking from inspiration Ethiopia, own withanAfricanangle. store uphis toGhanaopen returned MawuliStreet, Kofi Okudzeto London’s Mayfair andBond of After working intheswanky shops MKO.GH Ghana’s nationalfootball

Kiki Clothing choose choose 10am-5pm Sat.Credit MC,V. 629). Open10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 809 11thLane, Osu(0302 776 inMarinaMall. new branch small menswear section.Viva hasa D&G tocooover. There’s alsoa shoes andbagsfrom thelikes of extensive hasan rangetop floor of The designsitincorporates. couture haute thebroad selection of of form continued success,primarily inthe theboutique’sgood for reason thantwo more decades.for There’s Accra label-conscious of urbanites tothe andaccessories clothes supplyingViva high-end has been Viva Boutique Mon-Sat; 1pm-7pmSun.Credit V. accramall.com). Open10am-8pm Quarshie (0302823106,www. Shop G38,Accra Mall,Tetteh shirts. casualpolo ties, tomore retro ascufflinksandcolourful such suitsandaccessories off-the-shelf Gapwithwell-designed lines of is amen’s shopalongthe fashion TMLewin the London-basedbrand guys, smart for clothes Selling smart TM Lewin MC, V. 11am-6pm Sun.Credit AmEx, Open 10am-6pmMon-Sat; 4337 433,www.stellar-africa.com). Independence Avenue, Ridge (054 Mövenpick AmbassadorHotel, swimwear covered too. fabulous Mövenpick theyhave pool, you wanttomake asplashinthe Gabbana? Andif Thisistheplace. Dolceand handbag from Guccior Jimmy Choostyles. astatement Need thelatest of onapair trying for isanintimatevenue upstairs gallery African company. onthe Thestore high-end outletfrom theSouth avery retail sceneisStellarDeluxe, Mövenpick’s already pretty good additiontothe Another great Stellar Deluxe 8am-7pm Mon-Sat. www.royaldennisdesigns.com). Open (0244 226767,Facebook Page, Church,Opp Presbyterian Adabraka thespectrum. endof party towards themleaning the many of other innovative designs, are lotsof thereare attractive,but particularly fittogetherpatchwork, likewhich a Hisjackets, Ghanaian kente cloth. interesting designsare basedon designer’sThis fashion most Royal Dennis 10am-4pmSat. Mon-Fri; www.reneeq.com). Open9.30am-7pm Furniture (0302777926, Trade Fair Road, oppKpogas make-up artist. is alsoatalented pieces.and custom-madecouture She beads traditional or contemporary crystals, freshwater pearls, – sells herjewellery accessories Toronto). Theshopalso of streets recently saw onthe herclothing worldwidecan beshipped (we continue toflow inandpurchases www.facebook.com/ReneeQstyle)

and there’s astrong Italian designer accoutrements accessories, and cigar fashion emphasis isonwatches, thewalls. and metalflameslick The dark-wood cabinets ringtheroom tempered iron, isof floor central moody an appealingly vibe–the From themomentyou in,there’s step world’s mostprestigious goods. the 2009 showcasing arangeof buyer, inSeptember Calienteopened Aimed squarely atthehigh-end Caliente hotmail.com, Facebook page). Osu (244504462,bagsbybernice@ Number 85,4thRingWay Estate, place mats,scarves, andshirts. skirts tablecloths, The rangealsoincludes only Ghanaianhandmadefabrics. are uniqueusing and accessories herown shop.opened Allthebags thatsheeventuallypopularity wastheir own bagsin2002andsuch makingher began Ot-Ankra Bernice Bags byBernice&More 10am-2pm Sat. 803). Open10am-5pmMon-Fri; Castle Road, Adabraka (0302220 Novotel, Kojo Road Thompson and showcased attheNovotel Hotel. silver designsare traditional These lovely gold handcrafted and Amanda’s Jewellery accessories Fashion Mon-Sat; noon-8.30Sun. vlisco.com). Open8.30am-8.30pm Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (www. selection intheMövenpick too. store but there’s flagship store, a good Mallisthe the two theAccra stores, Woodin’s mutedofferings. more Of than colourful to belouderandmore all about thefabrics. Andtheytend it’s andbags,but sell clothing really across theworld. Like Woodin they waxfabric Dutch designs colourful its in 1846,andhassincespread VliscowasestablishedDutch-owned Vlisco 823 066),A&C Accra Other locations Mall(0302 9am-7pm Sat,Sun. com). Open8am-7pmMon-Fri; Barclaysby (www.woodinfashion. Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), attheMövenpick. opened fabric too. Anew hasalso store theystock but designed clothes, focusedonsimply Mall ismore inAccra from Thebranch thecloth. women andchildren thatare cut men, for clothes wide selectionof there isalsoa dominate thisbranch, thefabrics seamstresses. While professional designers and fashion prints, Woodin ishighly regarded by Dominated byboldAfricanwax fabrics. kaleidoscopic rangeof from buying its shoppers andforever popular filledwith Woodinoriginal ishugely store this inAccra, stores four One of Woodin Mall. selection of higher-end international higher-end international selection of itstillhasareasonableoptions, but Marinaoffers budget more Cave of toDonEmilio (right),the door Next Cave ofMarina Food anddrink (0302 919458,www.tebazile.com). Oxford Street, Osu 6th Street, off refinedrangesalso more available. there but are and colourful, chunky to know. TheTebi isfunky, brand probablyfans tellsyou allyou need andCameron Diazare Halle Berry no matterwhatyour budget.That statementjewellery pieces, beautiful Elizabeth in Dankoro specialises Tebazile 10am-4pm Sat. 10am-5pm; Open Mon-Fri Oxford Street (0245001414). something uptoadesired design. andwillmake service, cleaning shop. alsohasajewellery Jewelart when President Clintonvisitedthe herphotoof Georgette shows off even beoffered coffee aLebanese as door.workshop justnext You may silversmiths bythree inthe crafted everything ispricedbyweight and pieces, and some really beautiful there but are well-lit jewellery store, from cry aglossy,backroom isafar Africanmotifs. Thislittle sporting silver andgold pieces,many several tables ladenwithcrafted late husband,andstillmans withher thebusiness started ladyLebanese who a find Georgette, roomthe back you’ll would In beashame. gold jewellery,or that silver handcrafted of upauniquepiece pick anyone wishingto unnoticed. Andfor go couldeasily Jewelart Street, onOxford building awhite Tucked of attheback Hakim JewelleryJewelart 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat.Credit V. Spintex Road (0248557817).Open Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie and Cavalli amongthemostprominent. Versace, andRoberto Moschino as withnamessuch influence, Eleanor’s Closet Bargaining is expected Bargaining isexpected on the streets. Have on thestreets.Have a price in mind and a priceinmindand in the markets and in themarketsand

Top tip! Haggling be firm.

Call for details. 9am-9pm Mon-Sat;1-8pmSun. (0302774961).Open Supermarket Koala (Oxford Street), oppsideof CantonmentsRoad 14th Lane, off spiritsandbeers. international wines. There’s agood selectionof wide range of imported meats from meats imported wide rangeof cutsanda qualitymeat a variety of At StellarFoods customers canfind Stellar Catering Open Mon-Sat8am-8pm. Anumansah Street) (0277592017). Miami Street (alsocalled wineandspirits. champagne, they alsohave aselectionof ForIrish cream. indulgence, extra to takes –from your martini fancy any order flavourGH¢15, or that atsixpiecesfor start popular), flavoursprepared (theginger is pre- Boxes of Street. Oxford this tiny onasideroad store off flavoured chocolates at Ghanaian homemade upa box of Pick S. SalisWinesandChocolate 8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat;noon-8Sun. Open [email protected]). (0302773366, Supermarket Koala (Oxford Street), oppsideof CantonmentsRoad 14th Lane, off vodkas andgins. single maltwhiskeys, including spirits, international selection of Alongside thewinesisasuperb wines from across theglobe. the bigger. There of isawide choice theoneonright isbyfar Street, other.each However, from Oxford directly wine, opposite purveyor of this There are of two branches Don Emilio Chocolate Avenue hr’ lnyo thedark sweet There’s plentyof House (0242 557 766). House (0242557766). Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 OutAccrafor visitors Time stuff at this delightful atthisdelightful stuff the GhanaBroadcasting

chocolatiers. The 75 NorthRidge, opposite

cosmetics. chocolate-based a widerangeof edible –there iseven although it’s notall selection isonoffer, Ghana. Ahuge chocolate’s allfrom

womeninprogress.org for more womeninprogress.org more for WomenNGO www. (see inProgress bythe This wonderful isrun store Global Mamas 8am-5pm Mon-Sat;noon-5pmSun. www.artistsallianz.com). Open Labadi (0302771375, House, Accra-Tema Beach Road, Gallery, Omanye Artists Alliance inKumasi. NationalCulture for National Park shopandintheCentre Kakum sale inElminaCastle, styles.traditional Items are alsofor and bothincontemporary cloth, itemsandKentewooden kitchen jewellery, furniture, include bags, These sale. objectsfor wide rangeof hasa this NGO price, them atafair andsell high-qualitycrafts create Gallery. Setuptohelplocalartisans Alliance Ghana iswithintheArtists AidtoArtisans of The mainbranch Aid toArtisansGhana Sat; somestallsopenSaturdays. 9am-3pm 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; Nkrumah Monument.Open 28th February Rd,nearKwame prices are negotiable. themarket. All of hassle attheback goods.and leather There isless antiques wood furnishing, drums, asmetalornaments, such treasures interesting holds themore which hangar, market andintoanoutdoor The stallscontinuethrough themain andjewellery. clothing instruments, bags,musical carvings, textiles, crafts. Thestallsare fullof crammed and arts wanting aone-stop-shopfor tourists locationfor This isapopular National Culture) Arts CentreMarket(Centrefor MC, V. Open 9am-6pmMon-Sat.Credit [email protected]). Abebresem Street (0302778105, recycled beads. and somepretty jewellery from alongside someolderitems,textiles canbebrowsed, knick-knacks fixed. AlltheusualGhanaian large building,thepricesare but this found inthemany rooms of thesameitemscanbe of Much arelief. this shopinOsuisabitof Centre, theArts of After thechaos AACD African Market crafts Traditional 9am-5pm Sat. com). Open8am-5pmMon-Fri; stellar-africa.com, www.stellar-africa. (0302 961907,stellar.foods@ Residential5 AgbaamoLink,Airport outlet inTema soon. opening Takoradi (0312195435)andan Stellar Foods alsohave in abranch foodbrands. and international wines,condiments shop are imported where Alsoavailable tocome. atthe you’re having thisis abarbecue, If lambandpork. chicken, free-range to anddelimeats prime beef South Africa.Products rangefrom

53 Shopping Shopping Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accra for visitors 54 Time humanitarian projects inGhana. theitemsare from Africa, many of Wild from sources Gecko across other designproducts. Although and handbags, musicalinstruments, collectables, homewares, furniture, objects, with handmadeart Itisbrimming silver horn. andbull andjewellery wroughttextiles of bespoke ceramics, wooden furniture, collectables, finished beautifully Ghanaian emblematicAdinkra characteristically production of the workshop employing for artisans a isforemost emporium art-shop workshop-cum- This multi-faceted Wild GeckoHandicrafts (workshop Mon-Fri). Open 9.30am-5.30pmMon-Sat 434 9857,www.trashybags.com). Road, DzorwuluC 8Dzorwulu (054 at theAfricanRegent too. Freitag bags. There’s agood stand of banners toproduce bagsreminiscent usingold,largestarted canvas macs andbriefcases. Theyhave just torain shoulder bagsandbackpacks everythingthe rangeincludes from and tend tobeextremely colourful, theproductspackaging, themselves food high-sugar of the nature theirefforts.litter-pickers for Given 60, aswellof aspayingalegion around of employs afull-timestaff bagsandaccessories.It form together to beingstitched before is collected,washedandtreated, 20 millionplasticsachets. Therefuse they have than sincecollectedmore – Accra of onthestreets deposited wrappers plastic waterandyoghurt recycling andreusing theendless of Bags wassetupin2008asameans A remarkable successstory, Trashy Trashy Bags 9am-5pmSat. 9am-6pm Mon-Fri; www.suntradebeads.com). Open Asylum Down (0302235982, C522/3 Mango Tree Aveenue, beads. of jewellery increating out and groups alsogivesKati lessonstoindividuals andothermaterials. horn shell, bull coconut bronze, madeof earrings and bracelets necklaces, selection of SunTradeAccra, hasalarge regularly in exhibitions hasbead Torda Kati artist who Dagadu, born Set upin1996bytheHungarian- Sun Trade 9am-8pm Mon-Sat;1-8pmSun. www.globalmamas.org). Open Osu(0244530467, Supermarket, (Oxford Street), behindKoala CantonmentsRoad 14th Lane, off prints.or batikdesigns,tie-dyeuse colourful allages. Mostgarments children of men,women and are for clothes There and soapsmadefrom shea. items,evendecoration body butter home sacks, from oldflour here. There are totebagsmade Ghana cancomeupwithisbrought women inco-operativesaround by women. Anything thecreative andmadeinGhana,mostly traded details). Everthing here isfairly

if Ghanaianartistsareinvolved. branch inAccraMall.Keepaneyeoutforexhibitionstoo,especially original inAccra,makesitaworthwhiledestination.There’snew is asuccessfulcombination,andthebuildingitself,oneofmost selection ofjewelleryandfragrances.It’saneclecticcollection,but chandeliers fromDamascus,andchinateasets.There’salsoa including architecturallydesignedtulipvases,hand-blown browse. Over40brandsareonofferatLaMaison,withhighlights African-themed ornaments(somebylocalartists),allwonderfulto reclaimed leatherchairs,eye-catchingartworkandsomefabulous curated byNadaMoukarzel.You’llfindchunkysofas,gildedmirrors, and decorativeitemscanbefoundinsidethiscoolairyspace, A charminglyeditedselectionofhomeaccessories,furnishings,art La Maison Recommended It’s withall alarge packed space there are in Italy. two otherbranches, distinctive design shop– interior Mall isthis inAccra A new opening Casa Trasacco com). Open10am-6pmMon-Sat. (0302 232988,artdeco275@yahoo. Farrar Avenue, andNsawamRoad it withAfricanaccessories. functionality andsolidityfused have mixedScandinavian high standard. For 15years they toa Deco make customfurniture shop. Theworkers atArt furniture isthisremarkableneighbourhood, intheAdabraka crêperie Orangery Within asthe thesamecomplex Art Deco appointment onweekends. by 067). Open8am-5pmMon-Fri; hospital, AsylumDown (0244320 Accra YMCA building,by psychiatric service. andupholstery carpentry alsooffers Absolute Furnishings a wrought iron, andcane. rattan wood, materials thatinclude in offices, hotelsandschools homesand for high-quality furniture offers Absolute Furnishings Absolute Furnishings accessories and home Design 10am-5pm Tue-Sat. 508 500,www.wild-gecko.com). Open (0302 House, Okponglo Behind Gulf

bespoke andadapted byKukua.bespoke and creativeelegant pieceshere are the Hotel.ManyAmbassador of atthenew Mövenpickbranch Kukua hasrecently a Ampah opened boutiquesetupby art This luxury Joe’s PerspectiveArtBoutique 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. www.hallinteriordesign.com). Open (0302 410151, after AbekaLapazandKata Hotel On Kwame Inkrumahmotorway, materials andfittingsintheir work. They usewell-known European bathrooms kitchens, andoffices. for upmarket design fittings for interior DesignoffersInterior bespoke Hall your home, inside lookof you’re the lookingtoupgrade If Hall InteriorDesign 7.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-7.30pm Sun. 7.30pm Mon-Sat;noon-7.30pmSun. casatrasacco.com). Open10am- Quarshie (0302823322,www. Store G39,Accra Mall,Tetteh and largekitchens, furniture. showroom behindthemallfor There’sstart. bigger amuch your new placeit’s agood placeto out todeck aninteresting giftor for Africandesigns,but more like tosee excellent piecesamongtherest. We’d years ago, there but are stillsome afew thing thatwashappening fromprints), especially the‘kitsch’ erm, Chinese catsandJulianOpie, you’ll have (waving before seen thedesigns Ghanaian flag. of Much the of inthecolours fridge painted marvellous toarather furniture trinkets towallhangings,from design-ledobjectsfrom manner of and Spintex Road (0302823043 Accralocation Mall,Tetteh Quarshie Open 9am-7pmMon-Sat.Other 1074, www.lamaisonghana.com). butter and black soap. andblack Theshop also butter well-known asshea tolocalssuch bodyincluding products thatare Everything here ismadeinGhana, All PureNature beauty Health and Mon-Fri. 900). Open8.30am-5.30pm Arcade, Shopno. 203(0302763 House, Roman Ridge Shopping YaaOther location Asantewaa 9am-3pmSat. 5.30pm Mon-Fri; comfortghana.com). Open8am- comfortghana.com, www.water 592, 0265650462,info@water 4 SafloLink,Abelenkpe(0302763 second large showroom. There’sand Hansgrohe. now a Duravit Starck designed products for Schwab, KaldeweiandPhilippe Missel Schell, Itstocks properties. residential designs andproducts for ItalsoprovidesVillagio complex. Mövenpick, AfricanRegent andthe Labadi thenew including Beach, bathroom products tohotels WaterComfort hassuppliedhigh-end WaterComfort 1-6pm Sun. Open 9.30am-7pmMon-Sat; 220 782,www.orcatendances.com). 4 Graphic Road, Toku House(0302 kitchenware andtoys. anddecorations, furnishings Thereoffice. are good qualitysoft country, the thehomeor whether for inthe thebestfurniture has someof that store Orca isadepartment-like Orca Annex review See left. La Maison 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat. [email protected]). Open Korsah Road (0302784252, Roman Ridge Arcade, No9SirArku flowers initsshop. deliver, you but up canalsopick and in properties on arrangements Itcan inAccra. work arranger floral Jungle Flower isthemostinnovative Jungle Flower Sat; noon-6pmSun(0204311126). 10am-8pmWed;Fri; 8.30am-7pm Open 8.30am-9pmMon,Tue, Thur, Labadi Beach Hotel. Other location 321390). Open9am-7pmMon-Sun. Independence Avenue, Ridge (0204 Mövenpick AmbassadorHotel, souvenir. aclassy the placefor Thisis metal.Beautiful. of colours thenatural lefttogather partly polished, partly flowing sculptures, metal key rangeisherelegant commissioned byKukua’s clients. A Africa are customisedand created, West influencesof cultural the rich incorporating art works of Modern e, 6thStreet, Osu(030278

). ). Shopping 56 and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accrafor visitors Time friendly establishment. and atthiswell-equipped train Ghana’s athletesalso paralympic top-endfitnessequipment. course, training, and of lessons, personal areservices dance andTaekwondo other Among thewiderangeof massages, amongothertreatments. and pedicures withmanicures, spa Ringway Estatecentre hasabeauty The Pippa’s Centre in Health Pippa’s HealthCentre 764 154,www.marienoellespa.com). House F81/1,Kuku Hill,Osu(0302 also tattooandpiercing services. thefloor. There are of take uphalf stations wall andeightmanicure far stationsflankthe spa-pedicure tenfull but chic, only isthedecor services. Not economicalbeauty fast, Osu isthepremier destinationfor in salonandspa This full-service Marie Noelle’sSalonandSpa 8.30am-6pm. www.facebook.com/lajensalon). Open Osu(0302777837, Supermarket, (Oxford Street), behindKoala CantonmentsRoad 14th Lane, off and waxingare inprivate rooms. can have Massages theirnailsdone. professional barbers whilethegirls tiles, theboys canhave acutby glass byawallof Separated Accra. thenicestlookingin salon isoneof This upmarket maleandfemale Lajen BeautyShop 9am-9pm Sat;noon-8pmSun. com). Open9am-8pmMon-Fri; Inn(www.marinamallghana.Holiday Bypass Road, City, Airport near Ground Floor, Mall,Airport Marina andbags.accessories just GHC20.For kids:hair for pedi shop canalsodoamanior eyelashes, andfalse accessories the make upandcosmetics,hair Sage asPeggy Selling giftssuch Gift Shop 8am-8pm Mon-Sat;2pm-7pmSun. 000, www.allureghana.com). Open near Labone Junction (0302767 Ring Road East,Effiansaba House, andmassages. pedicures manicures, are endless:skintherapies, possibilities to leave. Thepampering vanity you may never want of and give devils intothegods – –or here the inconspicuousfront door onceyou but outside, enterthrough fromIt mightnotlooklike much the Allure SpaintheCity 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. www.allpurenature.com). Open (0302 786487, almostoppositeCitizen Kofi)building 10th LaneRingwayEast,Osu(green City, Holiday near Inn. Road, Bypass Airport Mall, Airport There’s atMarina anew branch massage. andarms shoulders, back andneck, can get a15-minutehead For GH¢10customers as oilburners. aswell tojasmine, lemongrass from oils, bathsaltswithscentsranging aromatherapy, massage andburning soaps,candles, arangeof stocks

Mon-Fri; 9am-3.30pm Sat. Mon-Fri; (0302 519384).Open 9am-6pm A&C equipment. all themodern and frames Find awideselectionof Care Centre Innes Eye&Vision 9am-1pm Sat. Open 9am-6pmMon-Fri, above Woolworths (0243393655). 39 CantonmentsRd(Oxford Street), sunglasses canallbeordered here. lensesand Designer frames, equipment totestalleye problems. Professional opticianswithmodern Eye EmporiumOptician Opticians 10am-2pm Sat. com). Open10am-6pmMon-Fri; (0243 201803,www.soaestheticgh. embassy next totheoldAmerican Court,809,11thLane, Osu, Viva tight ship. a runs Bruce-Adjetey Sacha Ownerandstylist centric. beauty blush andanything lip stick, else foundation, powder, lipgloss and Aesthetic products, include which SO thenatural facials. Itstocks shaping, eyelash applicationand make-up consultation,eyebrow offers salonwhich A beauty SO Aesthetic 9am-2pm Sat. 10am-6pmWed;Thurs, Fri; com). Open10am-9.pmMon,Tue, (0302 224488,www.pippasfitness. 5th RingwayLink,Estate 11am-6pm Sat;11am-4pmSun.CreditAmEx,MC,V. stellar-africa.com, www.stellar-africa.com).Open10am-6pmMon-Fri; Hotel, IndependenceAvenue,Ridge(0302971621,stellar.sounds@ Ground Floor,EmporiumShoppingCentre,MövenpickAmbassador other topbrands. shop sellsequipmentfromBowers&WilkinsandMarantzamong docking stations,projectorsandscreens,Blu-rayplayers.The and headphoneslookincredibletoo.Therearealsolaptopspeakers, as crispitwasrecorded,butthespeakers,soundsystems,TVs place. It’sapurveyorofveryfineaudiogearthathelpsmusicsound Need somethingtoblowyouawaysonically?StellarSoundsisthe Stellar Sounds Recommended Shopping Mall,East Legon

Sun. Credit V. Open 9am-9pmMon-Sat; 10am-8pm 823 064,lifehealthcare.com.gh). Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (0302 medicines. problems andinternational any thefirst callsfor one of shouldprobablytidy pharmacy be cosmetic dentistry. Thisexperienced, psychological and services health, premises. travel include Services medical anddentalcentre onthe There’s andalsoa apharmacy Life HealthCare 10am-8pm Sun. Open Mon-Sat8am-10pm; Star School, Labone (0302776794). North Labone Road, nearMorning Bernswett Pharmacy 9.30am-10pm Sat. Open 8.30am-10.30pmMon-Fri; Theatre Dzorwulu (0302778375). Road, Blohum adjacenttotheSID Bedita Pharmacy 2pm-9pm Sun. Open 9am-9pmMon-Sat; Residential Area (0302765486). 7 PatriceLabumba Road, Airport Adepa Pharmacy Open 24hours daily. and 37Station(0302776111). Liberation Road nearAkuafo Circle Hospital. Military islinked tothe pharmacy stocked aday, 24hours Open this well- 37 MilitaryHospital Pharmacies

Facebook page). [email protected], (026 5502977,www.amazing-u.net, event consultancy. communicationand etiquette, It’s also abranding, business NLP analysis, image consulting, events. colour include Services individuals,and at businesses for companyofferingand coaching help Amazing-U isanimage management Amazing-U services Visitors’ reviewSee left. Stellar Sounds 9am-3pmSat. 9am-7pm Mon-Fri www.mysonycentre.com). Open Oxford Street (0302 765094, Melcom PlusComplex. There’s atthe anotherbranch electrical goods Street. onOxford This smallSony outletoffers reliable Sony Centre 713338). 811270); Trade Fair (0206 771907); Spintex RanaPlaza(0302 326); OsuOxford Street (0302 Area Industrial (0302245 Northern and airconditioningunits. microwavesTVs, washingmachines, goodsparticularly from LG. Find electronic goods, manner of sellsall stores This large of chain Somovision www.bang-olufsen.com). Circle, Osu(0302762654, F893/2 RingRoad East,Danquah- would expect. has allthetop-endequipmentyou This Bang&Olufsenshowroom Bang &Olufsen Mon-Sat; noon-8pmSun. 823282) Open9.30am-8pm Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (0302 Apple poorly products.for service arepair alsoruns The store 30minutes). access (GH¢1.25for offeringand terminals broadband Ghana’s only Apple hasa‘café’ store Apple iShop goods Electronic Open 8am-9pmdaily. www.kingymensah.com). Oxford Street (0275081462, other musicworkshops. plus bothindividuals andgroups, for workshops drumming popular runs and bells. Theowner Mensahalso maracas, xylophone drum, Kpanlogo Take onDjembedrum, Street. aturn fillthisshoponOxford instruments andpercussion drums of An array Kingy Drums Music coaching andeventcoaching solutions.

Arts & Entertainment Live music, Ghanaian art and the beautiful game

Art & Film 60 Children 64 Music 66 Sport 68 established artists, such as Owusu Joes’ Perspective with more than 800 books about Galleries Ankomah and George Hughes, Art Boutique visual arts, that is one of the whose paintings are reminiscent of organisation’s most important AACD African Market Jean Michel Basquiat and Willem De projects. It’s also developing a If the Arts Centre seems a little too Kooning, and others by new and debating forum and a public hectic – and it certainly can do upcoming artists like Ebenezer database of artists, organisations, – this three-storey shop is full of Borlabie. Market, rural and urban galleries and patrons. much the same kind of goods, albeit scenes are interspersed with political Off 2nd Circular Road, Cantonments with fixed prices. There are dozens satires and of course there are the (0302 776 502, http://fcaghanablog. of rooms, each representing a shrouded figures and staccatoed wordpress.com; Facebook page). Open different medium: woodwork, beads, crowd scenes by Glover himself. 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am- Art & Film Kente cloth, clothing, painting, There are also collectors’ pieces: 4pm Sat. sculpture and a handful of Asafo flags with appliquéd and antiquities. There’s definitely a fair embroidered symbols; ancient Goethe-Institut amount of tat (keyrings, flags, strip-woven Kente cloths by the The Goethe-Institut is the German Ghana T-shirts) mixed in, but there Akan and Ewe; masks from around cultural centre and has been are also serious artistic items. the continent of the type that established in Ghana for more than Friendly (and numerous) staff inspired Picasso, and 50 years. It has an impressive array will advise on the item’s intricately carved of events and art exhibitions. Links provenance. Come furniture. There are between German art and that of here for relaxed Top tip! also some full-sized Ghana are given precedence, whether souvenir shopping Souvenirs coffins in the shapes through sound installations, mixed – although not that Foundations and of crabs, running Foundation for Contemporary media pieces, performance art, exclusive painting. shops in hotels are shoes and eagles. Art (FCA) photography or painting. The Abebresem Street, Osu often good places to Everything is for sale. The Foundation for Contemporary National Film and Television (0302 778 105). Open find high quality art There are ambitious Art at the WEB du Bois Centre (a Institute is next door. Be sure to 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. in Accra. plans for a restaurant research centre for Pan-African check the website or pick up a that would take history and culture, and named after programme of events. Alliance Française advantage of a spectacular African-American civil rights 30 Kakramadu Road, PMB 52, d’Accra position overlooking the Gulf of activist William Edward Burghardt Cantonments (0302 776 764, The Accra-based arm of the French Guinea and the fishing vessels that Du Bois) was set up by Joe www.goethe.de/accra). Open cultural centre offers a large range bounce along it. Nkrumah, formerly of the National 1pm-5pm Mon-Thur; 10am-2pm Fri & Film Art of artistic activities every week. It Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach Museum, and Virginia Ryan, an library and information centre. particularly excels in live music Road, Labadi (0302 762 576, Australian artist. It exhibits work by events, but there are also regular art www.artistsallianz.com). Open up-and-coming artists in interesting Joe’s Perspective Art Boutique displays and talks from international 9am-6pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. ways, such as its Art in the Garden This luxury art boutique, set up by artists. The obvious focus is on projects. But it’s the growing library, Kukua Ampah now has its biggest French and Ghanaian artists (often Arts Centre (Centre for working together), which forms an National Culture) artistic bridge between both cultures Just next door to the National in terms of language, education and Museum is the Arts Centre. Hawkers artistic pr­ogramming. There is attack from all sides as soon as you always something interesting on; be arrive, but if you’re not exhausted sure to look at the website before by the scrum you can find cloths, arriving in town. carvings, baskets, drums, bags, Liberation Link, Airport Residential beads, sandals, sculptures, stools Area behind Opeibia House (0302 and rugs, and occasionally antiques. 773 134, www.afaccra.com). Open It’s a place for some incredible finds Nubuke Foundation 10am-5pm Mon-Fri. and gifts. The best bet is to head past the hassle which you’ll Aid to Artisans Ghana inevitably encounter at the entrance Although there are a handful of towards the back of the complex Good foundations these outposts around the country, where it’s a bit more relaxed. including in Kakum National Park Haggling is expected. There’s also and Elmina Castle, the most an art gallery, which sells prints and Ghanaian photographers, painters, sculptors and filmakers are finally getting the international accessible and largest is located paintings at reasonable prices. recognition they deserve. Here’s where to find the best, and the next generation within the Artists Alliance Gallery. 28th February Road, near Kwame Aid to Artisans Ghana is a craft Nkrumah Monument, Accra Centre shop that sells souvenirs, chairs, (0302 662 581). Open 8.30am-5pm e felt that there was Nubuke Foundation was started in work home, come here. have become indispensable to the bags, textiles, wooden gifts and Mon-Fri; 9am-3pm Sat-Sun. something missing in 2006, but without a home – Its success reflects a wider arts scene. jewellery. The organisation was set Recommended “WGhana,” Odile Tevie working around the country where interest in Ghanaian art. To see While the contemporary arts up to help local artisans create Berj Art Gallery tells Time Out Accra from the leafy the art took them. But in 2009, this burgeoning artistic confidence scene continues to grow and high-quality crafts and sell them at a Run by the painter Betty Acquah, Nubuke Foundation terrace in front of the Nubuke they moved to this space. “It in Accra is not hard – head to evolve, Ghana’s rich and fair price. It’s a worthy idea and this gallery represents Larry Otoo Foundation, of which she is means we have consistency the packed Loom gallery or deep-rooted heritage of traditional combines well with the Artists and other well-established artists. It The Nubuke Foundation has been in this pleasant building in East director. “We needed to speak for now,” explains Odile. It has the wonderful beachside craftsmanship is certainly not Alliance Gallery, even if it is tricky also offers a good framing service. Legon, its first permanent location, since 2009. It’s one of the most artistic expression. There has also seen cultural Artists Alliance, being eclipsed. These time-old to know where one ends and the 245/3 Ringway Link opp Video interesting art galleries in the city. It was set up to provide an been a lot of upheaval in Ghana events, including a created by revered skills and traditions remain other starts. Mart, Ringway Estates (0302 764 artistic space for Ghanaian artists (often in collaboration with and artistic expression suffered. monthly poetry night. Time-old painter Ablade Glover, integral to the culture of Omanye House, Accra-Tema Beach 606). Open 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat. artists from other countries) and show off their talents. It also has a We needed to talk about it, and But the work continues skills and to relish examples. communities across the country. Road, Labadi (0302 771 375, philanthropic aim to support artisans around the country. One show the world that there is higher outside the walls and As well as Accra’s Here, the line between art and www.aidtoartisans.org). Open British Council successful project was with Kente cloth weavers in Tsiame, in the quality in Ghana.” into the heart of traditions galleries, there are craft has always been a blurry one, 8am-6pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. This British cultural centre is not as Volta Region, teaching them how to make more commercially The Nubuke Foundation’s home Ghana. A recent remain exhibition spaces at with beautifully crafted and proactive as the Goethe-Institut or appealing cloth (tableware and bedding for example) as well as is an airy building in East Legon. project saw them several hotels, such decorated functional objects highly Artists Alliance Gallery Alliance Française d’Accra in improving techniques such as colour fastening. The results, available When we last visited, there was an working with Kente integral as Novotel (see p75) sought after. At places such as The hugely respected Ghanaian exhibiting arts, but it has some at its shop, are beautiful pieces of work (between GH¢100-600 for exhibition by visiting Nigerian cloth makers who and Fiesta Royale (see Wild Gecko (see p62), Joe’s artist Ablade Glover established this cultural events. Check the website two yards). Its vibrant cultural offering includes poetry evenings, artists looking to collaborate with already make beautiful cloth, but p73). Consulates promote the Perspective (see p61), Aid to renowned arts venue, which has for details. There is also an office in Saturday workshops, art walks, film and music. Keep an eye on the Ghanaian ones. It was one of with Nubuke Foundation’s help, arts with film screenings, dance Artisans and the Arts Centre art become one of the most important Kumasi (Bank Road, 051 37197). website for details. many shows put on every year. now make pieces with commercial shows, local art and photography and souvenirs can often be one of its kind in Ghana. There are three Liberia Road (0302 610 090, www. 7 Adamafio Close, East Legon, near Mensvic Grand Hotel (028 910 Also on display are works from its and international appeal. If you exhibitions, and the likes of the and the same. Finding a wonderful expansive floors of art in the cool britishcouncil.org/africa-gh-contact- 2163, 0277 445 596, www.nubukefoundation.org). growing permanent collection. The want to take some of this weaving Foundation for Contemporary Art gift in Ghana is never tricky. marble galleries. Some are by us.htm). Open 8am-4pm Mon-Fri.

60 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 61 Art & Film Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accra for visitors 62 Time miniatures. Many have featured been andsoldas art aspieces of exhibited stretches theimaginationare bottles, cars andanything elsethat birds, fish,aeroplanes, shoes,beer all over as theworld. Coffinsshaped art ascontemporary and exhibited coffinsthatarefantasy now collected the workshop for This istheoriginal Workshop Kane KweiCarpentry Admission GH¢7(GH¢2for camera). 633). Open9am-5pmTues-Sun. Road, AdabrakaBarnes (0302221 Bushongocarvings. and Ifeand Zulufigures, heads stools andpottery, aswell asSenufo goldweights, textiles, courts, beads, ethnographic itemsfrom theroyal offering. Still,you’ll find art improve thecontemporary director, we hear, islookingto Thenew often bealittlelacklustre. Yinka Shonibare to Ghana. But it can Gaba,Meschac Tracey Rose and Alexander, Fernando Alvim, West like thatbrought Jane artists asthe excellentSouthMeets such exhibitions has hostedsurprising inthemuseum thegallery the past, totheNationalMuseum.In changes A new may director bebringing National Museum Mon-Sat. 224 746).Open10am-5pm Nkrumah Circle, Adabraka (0302 Nkrumah Avenue, southof House, 119KwameSamlotte Ghana’s premier galleries. present. Loomisregarded asoneof and past scene, Ghanaian art the knowledge of her great Gabriel Eklou,andhappily offering as SethandSerge Clotteyand aboutexuberantly such theartists, delightful company, chatting Ademolaisaround, sheis If nearly 100artists. with thework of attheseams 1969, andisbursting here since hasbeen modest space expressive Nigerian pieces. The withasmattering of artists, Ghana’s foremost a good selectionof by andsculptures paintings exhibit thatcontinuesto gallery popular Loom’s Frances Ademolahasa Loom (0204 311126). Labadi Beach Hotel Other location 321 390).Open9am-7pmMon-Sun. Independence Avenue, Ridge (0204 Mövenpick AmbassadorHotel, oftenmid-dance. form, accentuating themaleandfemale figures lithebronze include new West Bestsellers Africameet. where oldand shopping experience, anexclusiveThis isvery much Kukua. Every pieceisdistinctive. customised andcommissionedby theregion are created, influences of cultural therich incorporating art of across West works Africa.Modern and adaptedbyKukua from artisans and creative pieceshere are bespoke theelegant the Kempinski). Many of Hotel (andthere’ll beanotheroneat attheMövenpickstore Ambassador sculptures madefromsculptures recycled metal are Particularly popular horn. bull silver and and jewellery wrought of textiles bespoke ceramics, furniture, finished beautifully wooden collectables,emblematic Adinkra Ghanaian characteristically theproduction of for artisans aworkshop,foremost employing Elizabeth Vardon. Wild is Gecko and herlife, in Ghananearly allof Poem, woman whohaslived aDutch of isthebrainchild art-emporium workshop-cum- This multi-faceted Wild GeckoHandicrafts Facebook Page). Teshie-Tema Road (0244114719, make them. that oncoffinsandtheartisans more 8for page See with otherartefacts. British MuseuminLondon,along good inthe examples a coupleof galleries. There are also in European withappearances become artworks built in1957,howeverfirst theyhave Surprisingly, thecaskets were only you’re afisherman. tuna fishif ina tomato, or inanonionor buried you’re afarmer, you canbe If norm. creativealbeit inmore ways thanthe purpose, theirprimary still usedfor Secretan. Thecoffinsare Thierry in thebookGoinginto National Museum Wild GeckoWild Handicrafts by Darkness by com). Open10am-5.30pmTue-Sat. (0302 508500,www.wild-gecko. House, Okponglo Behind Gulf toboot. experience shopping pleasant souvenir, anda aunique need you unmissable if world untoitself. It’s Wild really Gecko isa but Dzorwulu, North a longdustyroad in projects inGhana.It’s off often from humanitarian theitemsare local,and many of from sources Gecko across Africa, ambitious design.AlthoughWild centre duetoPoem’s eye keen for of Wild tendtobeslightly Gecko left design products. Itemsavailable at children’s books,bangles andother soaps,Ghanaian instruments, handbags,musical furniture, objects, collectables, homewares, brimming withhandmadeart Massimo.from theartist It’s with seasonal festivalswith seasonal andvisiting mostly takesound. Screenings place and direction, cinematography writing,public oncomposition, art thegeneral also hasworkshops for in filmandtelevision production. It courses Education Instituteandruns by thegovernment asaHigher Institute (NAFTI) wassetupin1978 The NationalFilmandTelevision Institute National FilmandTelevision 5am-5pm Mon-Fri. 773 134,www.afaccra.com). Open Area behindOpeibiaHouse(0302 Liberation Residential Link,Airport French television channels. documentaries, children’s filmsand filmsand of and hasalibrary filmsin Française screens French theAlliance of outpost Accra-based as itsnetworks inFrance), the the world (over 130 countriesaswell With networks dottedthroughout Alliance Françaised’Accra Film expected that bartering expected thatbartering will go on, so the initial will goon,sotheinitial At the markets, it is At themarkets,itis price is adjusted price isadjusted Top tip! accordingly. Haggling

Accra Mall(0302823270, movies. selectionof a great it’sbut fulfillingits role well, with only dedicatedcinemainGhana, It’s amazingtothinkthisisthe Open 10am-9pmdaily. www.silverbirdghana.com). [email protected]). Cantonments (0302777616, Kakramadu, Goethe-Institut, by animation filmsare shown. and features documentary ANIWA,called inwhich biennial filmandtelevision festival filmmakers. NAFTI hostsits own nr). Opennoon-11pm daily. (0302 505111,www.surfersinn.co. House East Legon nearAmerican togoperfect withamovie. pizza madeinafirewood oven– and chops, smoked pork including Germany, Italy, France andGreece, dishesfrom of array has aneclectic movie costsGH¢2.Therestaurant from.choose Watching ascheduled than700DVDs9pm andhasmore to GH¢25from booked 2pmuntil for Theroom can be cinema screen. room hasa130-inch screening events are shown and the sports onwhich screens 50- and42-inch room andgames haverestaurant The upto25people. can seat and arentable room that screening room tablesgames withtwo pool witha restaurant German-run InninEastLegon isa The Surfers Surfers Inn Mall.Ithasfivethe Accra theatres, town istheSilverbird Cinemaat in cinemaexperience multiplex (andonly!)The mostluxurious Silverbird Cinema library. 10am-2pmFri Mon-Thur; goethe.de/accra). Open1pm-5pm Cantonments (0302776764,www. 30 Kakramadu Road, PMB52, room shows. here for Institute The NationalFilmandTelevision details. 1970s. thewebsitefor Check thatbecamebiginthe Germany in by theGhanaiandiaspora highlife traditional played fusion of highlife burgher –a about the riseof in Institut. Theywere heavily involved workshops andfilm festivals atthe in themedseasons.There are also onThursday nights They oftenrun directors. andinternational German filmsby of regular screenings centre has cultural The German Goethe-Institut the biggest withaseating well-heeled Accra cinemagoers. Accra well-heeled Who , adocumentary isHighlife? aaiyo 300andthe of capacity Silverbird ismainly for often uses the screening often usesthescreening smallest with a capacity smallest withacapacity around GH¢15,the tickets pricedattickets and production. With highquality films of Nollywood andlocal Bollywood, Hollywood, include screened around 180.Films of

Marvel’s Minigolf Activities This is an impressive minigolf course that will attract fun-loving Baran Play Garden adults as much as children (there’s a This play centre has high-energy bar after all). The 18-hole golf course outdoor facilities such as two bouncy has the usual challenges and tricks. castles, a trampoline, bumper cars The clubhouse serves snacks. and a bungee trampoline. Luckily Forest Avenue, Abelenkpe traffic there is also an on-premises lights, Dzorwulu (0302 915 400, restaurant that serves pizzas, www.marvelsghana.com). Open burgers and fries, as well as Turkish 11am-9pm Mon-Thur; 10am-10pm Children kebabs that can replenish energy. Fri-Sun. Admission GH¢8, children The parents may be watching with under 12 GH¢6. raised heartbeats as some of the activities are not for the faint-hearted. Shopping Plot N0 82, Osu Badu 2nd Street, Dzorwulu (0202 631 631). Open Benetton 9am-8pm daily. This popular Italian brand caters for nine-month-old babies through to Churcheese 14-year-olds and there is a stylish This restaurant and play place, by range of attire. But the best thing the Morning Star School, off the about the store is its particularly Danquah Circle, is a handy stop-off wide selection of accessories from for families. For the children there is swimwear, to flip flops, belts, shoes a bouncy castle and games room. and ruck sacks. There’s also a restaurant serving Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, Ghanaian dishes. Airport City, (wwwmarinamallghana. 27 Orphan Crescent, North Labone com). Open 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; (0302 763525). Open call for details. noon-8.30pm Sun.

Kids Planet Chicco This is a rather state-of-the-art venue This international brand is not only with a fancy entrance, arcade games ideal for clothes and toys shopping and an entertainment arena for more (0-5 years) but a good retailer of hair, technophobic children. For creative body and baby bath-time products, kids, there’s face-painting, arts and and furniture including car seats. craft classes, dancing classes Ground Floor, Marina Mall, Airport (Zumba and HipHop), a puppet Bypass Road, Airport City, (0544 show, karaoke, a bouncy castle and 355 368, www.marinamallghana. basketball hoops for the most com). Open 10am-9pm Mon-Sat; energetic. There’s a crèche for noon-8pm Sun and public holidays. children between 10 months and Kids just want fun three years which is open on Coco Angel Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays This very brightly decorated store from 10am-noon. with its vivid lime green and white Whether it is a cooling swimming pool, or Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, colour scheme stocks smart clothes Airport City, near Holiday Inn (www. such as blazers and casualwear by last-minute supplies, Accra meets every need marinamallghana.com). Open Spanish labels such as Mayoral and 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; Pablosky for 0-14 year olds. noon-7pm Sun. Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road, here’s definitely more to When the heat is far too Airport City (0264 603 995, www. entertaining kids in Accra unbearable or whenever parents Kidz Cottage marinamallghana.com). Open Tthan iPads. In spite of the fancy a bit of retail therapy, all the This is a remarkable place for 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. blazing heat – sometimes up to shopping malls have some kind of children under 12 who love to be 38C – they still love a good bit of play area; some soft and cuddly, spoiled rotten. The large safety- Happy Minds Ghana old-fashioned outdoor fun and others loud, brash and with video conscious play area is great to Toys with an educational twist: keep more and more spots are popping games blowing up tanks. Good expend energy, but the part the little children’s minds active while having up in Accra to accommodate options include the new girls tend to love is inside the beauty fun with a range of durable and their urge to break out into Marina Mall which has the parlour. There’s a play area outside interactive toys, from sewing and sweat. Baran Play Garden, newest children’s shops and and video games, books and toys. embroidery kits to puzzles. popularly known as ‘Play attractions (see p49). No 133 Noi Fetrika Street, Airport Behind the Netherlands Embassy, No Garden’ probably There’s certainly Residential (0302 765 616, www. 9 Nima Avenue, TV3 Road, Osu offers the most The kids something for kidzcottage.biz). Open 9am-5.30pm (0302 270 040 happymindsgh@ adventurous outdoor everyone – both Tue-Fri; 8.30am-5.30pm Sat; gmail.com). Open 8am-5.30pm playground in the city are bound parents and children 11am-8pm Sun. Mon-Fri. and the kids can burn to burn off – and with planning, off loads of energy creative field trips and La Palm Kids Play Theme Park Toy Mania while parents relax loads of lots of ice cream, you ‘Theme park’ may be pushing it a Stocking international brands under canopies with energy can keep the little little, but this new play area at La Clementoni, Faro, Barbie, Hello Kitty cool drinks. ones amused while Palm Royal hotel is an excellent Playgo and MacMillan, Toy Mania As well as the new outdoor relaxing in the knowledge they’re addition to the hotel’s family-focused has arts and crafts and electronic options, La Palm Royal Beach safe. The British High Commission offering. There’s a nautical theme, toys and scooters for boys and girls Hotel (see p76) has a brand new, Club (0302 7010 650) has a with a big boat to climb up and a starting from three months to adult. and excellent, play area, and playgroup for little ones. shallow paddling pool. A bouncy This is also an ideal place to stock Labadi Beach Hotel, where there’s Finally, the Dwenesie Music castle occasionally makes an up on party-bag gifts and fillers. always lots going on (see p76), Institute is worth looking into for appearance. It is right by the pool. Marina Mall, Airport Bypass Road remain firm favourites. The larger mini-Mozarts. Contact director La Palm Royal Hotel (0264 967 926, (0246 070 070, www.marinamall hotels are generally always a safe Dinah Reindorf on 021 228 615, 0208 152 078, ghana.com). Open 9am-7pm bet for fun days out by the pool 0208 179 323, quashienovsky@ www.lapalmroyalbeachhotel.com). Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; – especially for short stay visitors. gmail.com. Open 9am-5.30pm daily. 12.30-8pm Sun.

64 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Jahwi at Alliance Francaise Jazztone Venues Some of Ghana’s best musicians play here. There is live entertainment +233 Jazz Bar & Grill every Friday and Saturday from See review right. 8.30pm and poetry readings are held on Wednesdays. On weekends, catch Alliance Française owner Toni Manieson singing jazz The Alliance Française masterfully standards accompanied by congas, promotes Francophone culture, and piano and sax. on Wednesdays plays host to Phone for details. musicians from Ghana and across (0302 761 0820). Open varies. Music the globe – including from France and Spain. With a sizable garden and Labadi Beach two outdoor stages, it’s definitely one Reggae DJs play on Wednesday of the leading live venues in Accra. nights near an open bar that is Seun Kuti, son of Afrobeat luminary stocked with local and imported Fela Kuti, played here, as well as a beers. There are occasional live selection of traditional and highlife bands, as well as acrobats and other bands. Every year there’s a entertainers. The groups come from month-long festival of music, loosely around Accra as well as based around Francophone genres. neighbouring countries. The Invited musicians from Europe often standard is very high and you’ll come over to play alongside likely catch something that gets you Ghanaian artists. On Wednesday moving. It draws a mix of nights there’s often highlife music international students, reggae lovers, – one of the few places in Accra rastafarians and the less pious where you can see it. The larger ‘rent-a-dreads’ looking to hook up stage is used for bigger events, such with a foreigner or at least sell some as a recent album launch by Jahwi Rasta-styled wares. A worthwhile (see picture right). There’s a good trip if you are in town. You may also open bar and Nicolino’s pizza (see catch some music on Sundays, p44) at the premises. during which half the city seemingly Liberation Link, Airport Residential descends on the place. Area behind Opeibia House (0302 Beach Road. Admission GH¢3. 773 134, www.afaccra.com). Recommended National Theatre Big Milly’s Backyard +233 Jazz Bar & Grill The unmistakable architecture of Set on a lovely beach, Big Milly’s has the National Theatre deserves to be live reggae on Saturdays and +233 (named after the Ghanaian dialling code) is the best place to seen – it’s been described as either a Sundays. The venue is an intimate see live music in Accra. It is an intelligently designed club that has ship, or, more abstractly, as a seagull hidey-hole to get away from it all. live bands most days of the week – nearly all of a very high calibre, spreading its wings. Chinese Wanlov the Kubolor can be seen here and many reaching ‘legendary status’, such as a regular Sunday developers built the theatre and sporadically, although generally a night show from highlife star Gyedu-Blay Ambolley & the Sekondi opened it in 1992 as the centrepiece live reggae band performs Bob Band (pictured). Inside, there are two floors. The band play on a for cultural life in Ghana. It is home Marley covers. On Fridays, there is a small stage downstairs, but can also be seen from the U-shaped to the National Symphony Orchestra, beach barbecue and drumming from upstairs. However, the clever bit, is that there’s ample seating the National Theatre Players, Music a cultural group. And at any time outside too, which looks onto a glass wall behind which the band National Dance Company and three there’s usually someone playing play. And external speakers mean its almost as loud outside as in. youth groups. The events calendar is guitar. The food is excellent and the Each section has its own bar with attentive servers. The food – getting better all the time, and major tiny nook of a restaurant makes a burgers, hotdogs, chicken, chips, kebabs and pork chops – is mostly touring acts are slowly but surely City sounds pleasant place to sit and while away off the grill. Order a handful of kebabs, a Star and you have the being included in the programme. an afternoon or evening. makings of one of Accra’s best nights out. The music varies between There is the main auditorium, a There’s never been a better time to see live music in Ghana. Join the party Kokrobite Beach, west of Accra highlife, blues, jazz (although rarely hip hop) and anything else good. dance hall, an exhibition hall, a (0287 288 889, www.bigmilly.com). There’s only an entrance charge (usually GH¢10) when the band Chinese garden, and FolkSpace, an merits it. It’s a hugely popular venue, and rightly so. open-air theatre. The box office is here are times when highlife, provide the soundtrack to the city. While they may no longer be which has an impressive regular Bywell Bar North Ridge (023 323 3233, Facebook page). Open 5pm-2.33am inside the building and will have a Ghana’s most famous The biggest shift in Ghanaian heard be under the shade of roster of musicians and highlife. On Thursday nights the Alpha Mon-Thur; 5pm-4am Fri; 2.33pm-4am Sat, Sun. list of events. Its website is also Tmusical export, almost music, however, came with the coconut palms, Ghana’s hiplife Churches are a major centre for Waves Band, led by Desmond getting updated more regularly, but seems a continuation of the emergence of hip hop from the stars, like the griots of the past, music, and musicians making Ababio, plays highlife and reggae. the best bet is its Facebook page. horn-blasts, shouts of stall US. The country’s very own are telling their story. They are the gospel music are also very Food and drink are available all with a mixture of reggae, and other culmination of workshops held by Tours can be taken around the holders and general hum of the version, known as hiplife, was poets of the 21st century Accra. popular. And it’s hard to find a night and dancing goes on until (random) hits before returning with avant-garde artists or simply a building for a small charge. Call 0243 streets of Accra. The frenetic, pioneered in particular by the place outside of Jamaica where morning. The crowd is a good mix a highlife set that gets everyone up celebration. There are also regular 758 876 or email publicrelations@ polyrhythmic, slightly ‘Godfather of Hiplife’, Reggie BEST VENUES there is such high regard for of Ghanaian locals and and dancing. The musicianship film, theatre and dance events nationaltheatre.com.gh. discordant charms of Ghana’s Rockstone, who began to rap This all coincides with a clear reggae and dancehall, as the internationals while the long bar is is usually excellent. throughout the year. Liberia Road and Independence trademark genre could have in , a local language. upsurge in the amount of live Wednesday reggae parties at perfect for imbibing local beers and Off Lagos Avenue, 30 Kakramadu Road, Avenue, Adabraka (0302 663 445, only emerged from this On the streets of music seen in Accra – more than Labadi Beach show. chatting. The energy is low-key but East Legon (21 Top tip! PMB 52, www.nationaltheatre.com.gh). city. The origins of the Highlife Accra, from the bars last year even. To see highlife, the band, considered by many to be 911591). Open from Your playlist Cantonments (0302 Admission GH¢1, extra charge for music is in the big and taxi stereos, it is +233 is the best place in the city AWARD WINNERS the new wave of highlife music, are 5pm daily. Time Out Accra’s 776 764, www.goethe. cameras. band sound, melded could only hiplife that is most right now. The thoughtfully The key event of the year is the a must-see. There is also live music website has a de/accra). Open with Caribbean have come likely to be heard. Tic designed club has music most Ghana Music Awards on Saturdays and occasionally Goethe-Institut Spotify playlist of 1pm-5pm Mon-Thur; Next Door Tropicana, and is Tac, VIP Mensah and nights, and always of a high (www.ghanamusicawards.com), theatre on Fridays. It can get a little The Goethe-Institut is Ghanaian music 10am-2pm Fri. There is live music on Wednesdays, deeply inspired by from this Batman, all of who mix standard. It’s also a good place to which is held in April of each year. rowdy later in the evening. the cultural institute to hear. Fridays and Saturdays from 8.30pm, traditional Ghanaian city hip hop with highlife hang out with friends, with indoor There are more than a dozen Southern end of Cantonments Road of Germany and has just International and you can catch some traditional music. But its legacy is and increasingly and outdoor seating. Also popular categories, including the Highlife (Oxford Street), Osu. Open 6pm-2am celebrated 50 years of work Conference Centre song and dance performances as even more far-reaching. In 21st reggae, have brought Ghanaian is Chez Afrique. Contemporary Artist of the Year, daily. in Ghana. Although it’s not set up The centre has played host to well. Some of the old-school century Accra, hip hop, reggae, music the full loop. UK acts such Another surprising venue which Hiplife Artist and Afro-pop Song of for live music as much as its French massive international stars like highlife musicians and singers pop, funeral tunes and traditional as Dizzee Rascal, Sway and often has highlife is La Palm Royal the Year. The 2013 event saw Chez Afrique counterpart, the institute does hold Jay-Z and Fat Joe but is also the come together here. music all mingle into one Lethal Bizzle, all of Ghanaian Beach Hotel in its outdoor African wins for R2BEES and M.anifest, This popular restaurant often has music events, usually in the venue for bi-annual highlife Beach Road, Teshie, opposite the electrifying cacophony. Eighty descent, blend the musical legacy Village restaurant during lunch and who recently collaborated with live bands, including highlife courtyard behind the building. It festivals and concerts. Military Academy (0302 713 961, years since its heyday, highlife and of their parents’ home, in grime dinner service. The key venue, Damon Albarn, at the glitzy musicians. The food’s good, but the could be anything from visiting Castle Road, opposite State www.next-door.com). Open 10am its precursors and off-shoots still and UK hip hop. however, is the Alliance Française, spring ceremony. music’s better. Many sets start off musicians from Germany, the House, Osu. until late daily.

66 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 67 Hearts of Oak fans city right now. The ridiculously Spectator inviting pool is a great way to cool down on hot days (that’s to say every sports day), with comfy chairs and waiters on in-line skates to whizz you round Football a cold drink. It’s a large pool with a For visitors who want to watch a live good shallow end for children, and game while in Accra, the best wide enough to do a few token chances are between August and lengths. And despite being in the April, which is the official football middle of the city, you barely realise season. Regular domestic games at the fact. Farther around the Sport the Ohene Djan Stadium, to see manicured lawns are two floodlit Hearts of Oak for example, are tennis courts. The gym, overlooking generally safe for tourists. For the pool on the second floor of the spontaneous purchases, official hotel, is well equipped with all you’d tickets can be bought at the Ohene expect, and friendly personal Djan Stadium or through a friendly trainers are on hand if you need a bit concierge at your hotel. At the game of advice or impetus. There’s a spa violence is rare. and two Thai massage treatment rooms, with outstanding masseurs, Ohene Djan Stadium from 3pm. It’s a good chance for Celebrity Golf Club plus a sauna. It offers a Up to FIFA standards, this venue anyone new to the sport to learn Located in the city of Tema, this is a comprehensive range of membership hosts national team games and is the about polo – local spectators are popular golf club among the packages depending on the level of home of one of Ghana’s most talkative and will fill you in on the workers at local logistics companies. access you want. Platinum includes popular teams, Hearts of Oak. game’s rules and point system. The There’s a good restaurant too. gym, pool, tennis courts, sauna, and Concerts and other public events are best bet is to turn up – occasionally Sakumono, Tema (022 401176, one massage a month, or just a one also held here. The stadium hosted there’s a charge, especially for the 0303 403 619). off session. A great place to spend the opening and closing games of big games. Several national teams the day relaxing. the 2008 Africa Cup of Nations. visit Accra every season. Tema Country Golf Club Independence Avenue, Ridge (302 In front of Independence Square This long-established club (founded 611 000, www.moevenpick-hotels. (0302 237 673, 1957) is one of the most professional com). Credit AmEx, MC, V. www.accraheartsofoak.com). Participation clubs in Ghana. It’s located on the way to Tema. Total Fitness Health Club Baba Yara Sports Stadium sports Mile 20 on Accra-Aflao Road, opp This excellent gym has the latest With a capacity of 40,500, the Baba Free Zone, Tema. Life Fitness equipment. There are Yara stadium in Kumasi is Ghana’s Football personal trainers on hand if needed, largest. It is named after one of Lizzy Sports Complex Gyms but you can just go in and use the Ghana’s best footballers, a former The eponymous Lizzy is Marcel If you should feel the need to do a equipment. There’s a nice 20m x 10m Boxing at Ohene Djan stadium star of the national team who played Desailly’s mother. In 2011 he bit of exercise in Accra (and if pool out back with seating around it for Asante Kotoko (the stadium’s opened up this world-class standing outside and sweating – plus a poolside bar to undo all home team). It’s up to pretty good sporting complex in his won’t do the trick) then your good work. There’s a wide standards (floodlights, maintained native Accra. There’s there are a couple of range of classes including zumba, grass, scoreboard). one almost full-sized Top tip! excellent gyms listed boot camp training, aqua aerobics Fighting fit Kumasi (www.asantekotokofc.org). pitch, plus three Keep cool below. The upmarket and circuit training, among others. all-grass five-a-side Hotels are the best bet hotels usually have a 14 Jungle Road, A&C Square east Boxing pitches. Alongside is a for a dip in a pool. Most gym of sorts, but the Legon (0302 942 509, totalfitness@ Cheer along the local heroes at a football game, watch the latest star of Ghanaian boxing, or Boxing in Accra is a serious very inviting pool allow non-guests to use best bet is to visit the ancmall.com). Open 5.30am-9.30pm business, and nowhere more so than overlooked by a sports the faciities for a couple listed below. Mon-Fri; 7am-7pm Sat; 10am-5pm get involved yourself. Accra loves sport – even polo in the quarter of Bukom – one of the bar and grill, a modest fee. All have walk-in rates, Sun. Admission GH¢25 one session. poorest neighbourhoods in basketball court and a but if booked by sessions ccra is a colourful place. ‘The Bison’, and he’s the kind of Despite there being 16 clubs in Ghanaian boxer of all time is Jamestown. There are more than 20 children’s pool. The pool can for a week or longer there are Pools Stalls sell art and ripped-off player who typifies the country’s the top flight, there are only two Azumah Nelson, who has been boxing schools here. Joshua ‘The be used for GH¢15 a day (GH¢10 discounts available. For a small fee, usually around ACDs, bright taxis streak sporting ethos: play strong, play dominant teams in the country: inaugurated in the Boxing Hall of Hitter’ Clottey, Ike ‘Bazooka’ Quartey for children) and this entitles you to GH¢5-20, you can splash about in Sport down the roads, and, seemingly, solid, play to win, play to Accra’s majestically named Hearts Fame. Ike ‘Bazooka’ Quartey also and Azumah ‘The Professor’ Nelson use the floodlit football pitches in the Pippa’s Health Centre one of the many hotel pools for a every male wears a football jersey. entertain. But while Essien may be of Oaks (whose supporters’ chant fought greats such as De La Hoya (named because of his ability to evenings. There are football training There are three outlets of Pippa’s day. The best pools are listed below. Arsenal, Chelsea and Manchester the most expensive Ghanaian is surely one of the world’s and Vargas, and among the ‘teach his opponents a lesson’) all felt programmes for youngsters between Health Centre in Accra. The newest United are the most sought after, (indeed, African) player of all time, quaintest: ‘Be quiet and don’t be current hopes is Joshua Clottey, a the smack of a fist and the crunch five and 16. The hugely successful is at Lizzy Sports Complex, but the African Regent Hotel but we’ve seen Sheffield there are dozens of other names silly/We are the famous Hearts of former IBF Welterweight of the deck in Bukom. There is no Corporate Football League is an flagship gym is at the Ringway 237/238 Airport West (0302 765 Wednesday, Burnley and who have made it big in Europe Oak’) and Kumasi’s Asante Champion. The remarkable story other area of the world with this excellent idea. If Marcel is in town, Estate branch. The third is in Tema. 180, www.african-regent-hotel.com). Scunthorpe United shirts. Usually, after coming through the ranks of Kotoko, aka the Porcupine of Ghanaian boxing is centred quantity of boxing schools, and he’ll be around. The equipment is all Life Fitness Golden Tulip the team on the badge doesn’t local clubs such as Hearts of Oak Warriors. Since the league’s around Bukom, a small shanty there is no other place in the world Near the A&C Shopping Mall, East and all branches are air-conditioned Liberation Road, Airport (0302 213 matter – they are supporters of and Asante Kotoko. inception in 1956, Hearts of town in Jamestown. There are that has produced so many world Legon (0302 521 851, www. with satellite TV and modern music 161, www.goldentulipaccra.com). football. And how. The fact that almost all Oak have won 20 more than 20 boxing schools in champion boxers in the last 75 years. lizzysportscomplex.com). systems. There are a variety of La Palm Royal Beach You don’t need to be in Ghana Ghanaian footballers of note championships, Kotoko 22. this area alone, more than the Try the Greater Accra Boxing activities on offer, including body By Labadi Beach (0302 771 long to appreciate that the country ply their trade Their nearest total found in the whole of many Association (0302 760 892) for details Golf combat, spinning, pilates, zumba 700,www.gbhghana.net). has a special relationship with the overseas makes the competitors have countries. Boxing is part of life in on bouts, but they are usually fairly One-on-one lessons can be booked and modern African dance. For the Labadi Beach sport. Every bit of open land in Ghana Premier League Football managed just three. If Ghana. Any bout with a Ghanaian well publicised. for those looking to improve their little ones there’s a tumble-tots class. Labadi Beach (0302 772 501, Accra is a football pitch in waiting. something of a curio. If crowds you’re looking to see a boxer will dominate the media for swing during their trip. There are Taekwondo is an important element www.labadibeach.com). GH¢30 It’s not uncommon to see groups you’re a sports fan, Hearts game in Accra, days, and a win by someone like Polo several reasonable courses, although and classes are held in each of the adults; GH¢15 children; under four of young boys playing a full-tilt though – or a sociology are just as they play at the Clottey is treated, understandably, Anyone interested in hobnobbing they are not always up to branches. Pippa’s is also used by free. game on the beach, even after the student – you’ll find watchable 40,000-seater Ohene as a national victory. For a chance with the city’s elite can head to the international standards. Mandy Fouracre Dance Academy. Lizzy Sports Complex tide’s submerged more than half that the matches, and Djan Stadium near to catch a bout, either head to prestigious Accra Polo Club The main Ringway centre has a Cotton Street, near A&C Mall, East of the pitch. The Premiership, or their attendant fans, Independence Square. Bukom and ask around, or better (Liberation Rd, Airport Residential Achimota Golf Club beauty spa where manicures and Legon (0302 521 851, www. EPL, gets huge audiences on reward first-hand experience. If you’re searching for the full, still ask a taxi driver. Area, 0302 772 775), located behind It’s been 75 years since Achimota massages can be booked. lizzysportcomplex.com). Ghanaian TV and games are African football has a reputation high-decibel match experience, Basketball is also popular in the Woolworths building. Originally Golf Club was first opened. Just 10 5th Ringway Link, Ringway Estate Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel repeated endlessly until the next for being dynamic and direct, and snare a ticket for the Kotoko Accra. A common way into the founded back in 1902, the club is still kilometres outside of Accra city (0302 224 488, Independence Avenue, Ridge game is shown. the GPL is no exception. The clash, which is the liveliest game sport has been for tall locals to be going strong, attracting monied centre, this is a friendly club that is www.pippasfitness.com). (302 611 000, www.moevenpick- Michael Essien, currently on crowds, complete with ball- of the year. plucked off the streets by agents expats from around the world. The happy to host visitors. The course is hotels.com). loan to Real Madrid from Chelsea, jugglers, drumming troupes Ghana’s second sport (some and taught to shoot hoops, but it’s polo season starts in September and an 18-holer with a par of 72. Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Novotel Accra is the best known Ghanaian and fierce tactical debaters, say it should be its first) is, of increasingly played in schools and runs until around Easter. Matches Achimota, Accra (0302 400 220, The Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel Barnes Road (0302 667 546, football player. He is known as are usually just as watchable. course, boxing. The most famous colleges in Accra. are held every Saturday and Sunday www.achimotagolf.com). has the best sports facilities in the www.novotel.com).

68 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 69

Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel

Hotels Rest and relaxation in Accra

Hotels 72 airport. The pitched roof lobby is Labadi Beach Airport one of the most spacious in the city (there’s a life-size wooden giraffe Residential greeting arrivals), the staff are more alert than most and the pool area is Expensive seriously inviting. Its stylish lower African Regent Hotel ground floor restaurant, Branche It’s telling that the lobby at the (see p45), is a further selling point African Regent has become a – dining spots this tastefully frequented spot for informal designed are rare in Accra. It’s an meetings. This is partly down to the unpretentious space, with Hotels hotel’s location – the international unpretentious pricing too – it’s not airport is just minutes away by car cutting-edge cuisine, after all. There – and partly down to its laid-back, are five meeting rooms and the upmarket ambience. Public spaces hotel has wireless throughout, as are stylish and manage to well as a business centre. The successfully fuse West African accommodation comprises suites, motifs with modern touches. There apartments, chalets and regular are some quality dining options too, rooms. And if US$310 for a double with the Mukyia Restaurant seems not enough money to be offering an array of African and ridding yourself of in a day, there’s international dishes. Standard a large casino (open Sun-Thur rooms are pretty basic – don’t 1pm-4am; Fri, Sat 1pm-5am) expect too many frills when it immediately next door. It’s a pretty comes to the bathrooms. There’s a grand affair – one of the two business centre with internet biggest in Accra, along with the one terminals and paid-for wireless in at La Palm Royal Beach Hotel – and the rooms. A regular events has roulette, stud poker and schedule keeps things lively, and blackjack set over three adjoining the modest but pleasant pool area levels. It’s worth checking online for sees all ages having fun in the cheaper rates, and longer term sunshine. The service is also better discounts. than most in Accra. There’s a Bars (2). Business centre. Gym. Artist’s impression of the Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City ‘Design Pop-Up shop’ which is Internet (wireless, free shared notable for selling very cool bags terminal). Parking. Pool (outdoor). made from recycled litter by Trashy Restaurants (2). Room service. TV. Bags (www.trashybags.org). Liberation Road, Airport Designer digs Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet (0302 213 161, (wireless, shared terminal). Parking. www.goldentulipaccrahotel.com). Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. Room Rates US$310-435 double. Rooms Hotels are being built all over Accra. And with every new opening, hotels are having to up their service. Spa. TV. 238. Credit AmEx, MC, V. game. Great news for visitors 237/238 Airport West (0302 765 180, www.african-regent-hotel.com). Holiday Inn Accra Airport Rates US$340 double. Rooms 109. This hotel is a cut above what o matter how impressive a homely, and doing it with panache. service here is among the best in Prices and classification Credit AmEx, MC, V. you might have come to expect from hotel looks from the All eyes at the moment are on Accra. Another smaller hotel The time of the rack rate is over, the Holiday Inn brand elsewhere in Noutside, it’s the details that the Kempinski, due to open in the should also be mentioned for with many international chain Golden Tulip the world, and the cluster of really matter. Were the check-in first quarter of 2014. The building excellent design. hotels now basing pricing on the The Golden Tulip is one of the most expensive suits usually found and check-out fast? Was the itself is based on a traditional La Villa Boutique should be aeroplane industry. However, our popular hotels in Ghana, thanks to milling around in the bar area is an concierge as helpful as he or she Compound house, commonly built celebrated for creating a gorgeous listings loosely follow these its sizable rooms, conference accurate sign of the property’s M Plaza Hotel could have been? Were the food by tribal chiefs across West Africa, retreat among the bustle of Osu. categories: Expensive (over facilities and location near the popularity with the business world. On paper, the M Plaza should be one North hours convenient? But also, was with the residences built around a Its rustic chic look, while not US$200); Mid-range (US$100- The lobby is a stylish, airy space of the area’s top contenders: the room comfortable? Were central courtyard with shaded ground-breaking, is certainly a $200); Budget (under full of floral displays and modern silver-service restaurant, cocktail Dzorwulu the light switches easy to seating areas and a refreshing change from the US$100) for a double room Critics’choice African wood sculptures, but from a bar, sauna, pool, hair salon, full gym use (it sounds banal, but it performance pavilion. US ‘could be anywhere’ style of per night. The lowest price we leisure aspect it’s perhaps the and massage services; its location Expensive can be infuriating)? More architects PageSoutherland many hotels. As we hear have given in the range is for Hotels Med-style pool – a ridiculously just five minutes from the airport Fiesta Royale often than not, if they Page have built in 269 reports of new a basic double, higher inviting sight on a hot day – also makes it a convenient stopover. The Fiesta Royale has smart rooms, weren’t noticed, they The design rooms, a retail space, openings by are prices will include Mövenpick The most exciting that’s the main draw (despite the But while the building’s stately efficient service and a good bar and were fine. It’s when lounges, restaurants, a Blu, , Marriott, larger rooms and 1development. Squeaky clean and building site of new hotels around exterior gives an impressive restaurant – the ideal Hotels things go wrong, or of hotels large spa with ten Hilton and Hotel Sun providing suites, rather than new, with an alluring shopping area. it). The rooms are good, with all introduction, the overall effect lacks accommodation for business become annoying, in Accra treatment rooms, by the Villagio a service expensive rooms such See p74. the amenities you’d expect. It atmosphere. The 100 rooms come travellers and families. Its location, that can really affect swimming pool and group, the standard of as presidential suites. makes sense to take the Superior with all the typical features to keep no more than 15 minutes from the a stay – just look at is going to tennis courts, among hotels in Accra is only with Shop around and Labadi Beach Still one of the over the Deluxe which are around guests comfortable – internet access, airport, is superb. The rooms are TripAdvisor! The get better other facilities in the going to get better. panache cheaper rates can 2classiest options in Accra despite a the same price. There’s a wide minibar, tea and coffee – and each large – ranging between standard design of a hotel complex. Connecting almost always be lot of new competition. It’s beachfront food offering from the pool-side room has a balcony complete with rooms, executive suites and chalets (what will probably be called User the main lobby to the ballroom and Location found on less popular days and at location is a winner. See p76. bar – hugely popular on Friday table and chairs. However, when – and are each kitted out with DSTV, Experience at some point) is so function spaces is the “Butterfly” This is a major consideration in quieter times of year. The evenings – a bar in the lobby and considering the pretty hefty free wireless, ample wardrobe space important: the bathroom, the building, named for its butterfly- traffic-clogged Accra. Most of the government has put a 15 per cent La Villa Boutique Hotel the Wiase Restaurant which does price-tag, there are several areas in and a safe. A large breakfast buffet lobby, the lighting (and those shaped roof. Inside, Looney & major chain hotels have tax on all accommodation and our 3The best small hotel in Accra. a superb buffet, especially on need of a little attention and the is included. The Fiesta Royale would switches), the wardrobe Associates have melded congregated around Airport prices include this. Using credit There’s a modest pool, great terrace Sunday afternoons with a vast review websites seem to agree. It is, pass as a reliable and well-run hotel placement, the sofa, even the contemporary West African Residential, which is close to the cards shouldn’t be a problem in and an authentic Italian restaurant. Ghanaian spread, much loved by however, seen as a suitable bet for a anywhere in the world: the service is pillows. A hotel is your home when design with internationally airport of course, as well as many the major international hotels, but See p75. locals. conference, with several well a cut above many others. Its visiting. Details. recognisable amenities. businesses. The Novotel and new many of the smaller hotels won’t Bars (2). Business centre. Disabled equipped rooms. Mansonia restaurant has a private These are areas that hotels in Of the exisiting, however, it’s Mövenpick are in central Accra accept them. We have indicated Holiday Inn A solid choice with a access. Gym. Internet (wireless, free Bar (2). Concierge. Business centre. dining area for groups and parties. Accra have suffered with in the the Mövenpick which is getting – again, good for business which ones here accept credit 4good pool and good options for shared terminal). Parking. Pool Gym. Internet (wireless). Parking. The bar and restaurant are past, particularly the service, most attention. After opening last contacts. La Palm Royal Beach cards, but like everywhere in eating and drinking. See p73. (outdoor). Restaurants (2). Room Pool (1 outdoor). Restaurants (2). becoming very popular with something that should be spot on year, it quickly became Accra’s and Labadi Beach are both by the Ghana, make sure they are service. TV. Room service. Spa. TV. non-residents too, thanks to its given the price that many hotels hotspot for the well-heeled. A large sea and are perhaps 10 minutes accepted when you arrive. All Roots Hotel This surprising Plot 19 & 20 Airport City (0302 740 Borstal Avenue (0302 763 417, well-cooked Ghanaian, African and are charging. Yet there are a few airy lobby, restaurant and bar, and from central Accra or up to 40 prices are in US$ and dollars are 5apartment hotel in the heart of Osu 930, www.holidayinn.com). Rates www.mplaza-hotel.com). Rates international specialties. The Ceiba hotels that are concentrating on that pool – unmmissable – make it minutes from the airport when the often preferred over cedis in the is one of Accra’s best bargains. See from US$220 double. Rooms 168. US$312 double. Rooms 100. Credit terrace offers a range of snacks and the details, and making a stay a superb option. It should be said traffic is particularly bad. larger hotels. p75. Credit AmEx, MC, V. AmEx, MC, V. food. The pool is on the small side,

72 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 73 but its backdrop of Italian-style Room Restaurant serves an every weekend. Wireless is available Sangaw Bar. (There are also some gardens makes it a picturesque and international menu as well as throughout the hotel and extensive interesting historical flags from clean area for unwinding. Ghanaian cuisine, including some conference facilities span three Ghana’s colonial past to browse in Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet interesting fusions such as chicken floors. There is a 50 per cent the bar.) The hotel’s 190 air- (wireless, free shared terminal). and mango tartlets. There is also a discount on weekends. conditioned rooms range from Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. pretty small bar. The most pleasant Bar. Business centre. Internet standard and superior rooms to Room service. Spa. TV. place to eat and drink in the hotel is (wireless). Parking. Pool (outdoor). larger suites with two bedrooms. Motorway Extension, North along the arched Delia terrace. The Restaurant. Room service. TV. Bars (2). Concierge. Business centre. Dzorwulu (0302 517 411, Kpehe conference room has 5 Mozambique Link (0302 225 155, Gym. Internet (free wireless, shared www.fiestaroyalehotel.com). Rates reasonable facilities, but contact the www.coconutgrovehotels.com.gh). terminal). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). US$340-440 double. Rooms 100. general manager first. There is also a Rooms 36. Rates US$135-195 Restaurants (2). TV. Credit AmEx, MC, V. gift shop for souvenirs. double. Credit MC, V. Barnes Road (0302 667 546, Bar. Business centre. Internet (shared www.novotel.com). Rates from Mid-range terminal). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). Highgate Hotel US$220 double. Rooms 190. Credit Nogahil Hotel Restaurant. Room service. TV. This is, in some ways, a great little AmEx, MC, V. The three star Nogahil Hotel offers 9 Kakramadu Link, East find. Hidden away among the quiet clean and modern lodgings at Cantonments, next to Philip’s Clinic backstreets of Asylum Down, the around 15 minutes drive from the (0302 761 162, www.mahoganylodge. 33-room Highgate is a property with Osu airport. This intimate arrangement com). Rates US$185 double. Rooms the kind of down-at-home character – just 10 double rooms and two 14. Credit AmEx, MC, V. that many of its slicker, larger Expensive suites – is in easy reach of city competitors lack. That said, it could Recommended La Villa Boutique Hotel attractions; staff are friendly and do with a bit of TLC in some rooms. See Recommended box left. accommodating, and service, for the Adabraka, The accommodation is generally La Villa Boutique Hotel most part, is efficient. Internet access spacious (ask to see the rooms first), Mid-range is available in the lobby, and satellite Ridge & while the wood-panelled bar serves This gorgeous boutique hotel is a quiet and stylish escape close to Frankie’s television in the rooms; the onsite as a perfect refuge after a day in the the centre of Osu. Rooms invite relaxation with huge beds and Perched above the bustling restaurant offers a range of Chinese, Asylum Down heat. If you’re after internet access, muted tones spanning chocolates and creams, and a modest restaurants and bars of Frankie’s international and local Ghanaian there’s a cable hook up in each room, plant-fringed pool is overlooked by a high terrace perfect for parties extensive complex is a 20-room hotel. dishes, and the hotel frequently puts Expensive but the complimentary wireless is and events. The whole place basks in a classy European feel, topped Frankie’s Hotel – which oddly on live music to entertain its guests. Alisa Hotel North Ridge sporadic. Service is friendly but not off by the onsite Italian restaurant, Soprano, open 6am-11.30pm. It’s describes itself as a ‘2.5 star’ Escape the heat by plunging into the Split into three differently modelled particularly snappy or accomplished. cosy, welcoming and with a menu brimming with classic favourites. establishment – is aimed at budget swimming pool, or claim some shade residences – the Pegasus, the A free shuttle bus service runs to Style pervades every element – even the rate card comes in the form travellers. Some rooms are basic but at the pool bar area. Landmark and the Heritage – Alisa and from the airport. The restaurant of a tiny brown scroll tied with string – and while the prices may spacious – the two star? – while Bar. Internet (wireless, free shared is effectively a trio of separate is nothing speical, instead head to seem high, they’re often cheaper than the big hotels – and the place others are teeny tiny – the 0.5 star? terminal). Parking. Restaurant. Room hotels. Rates don’t differ from nearby Asanka (see p44), or The couldn’t be more inviting. There is the possibility of negotiating on – so it’s highly advisable to ask to service. TV. building to building, however, and Lexington (see p36). the price a bit, especially over stays of a few days. see your appointed room before Tetteh Quarshie motorway extension the claim is that the facilities are Bar. Business centre. Internet Bar. Internet. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. Room service. TV. agreeing to anything. All have (0800 7297 2900 UK, 1-888-790- identical throughout. As an (wireless, free shared terminal). 13th Lane, Osu (0302 730 3336; [email protected]; www. air-conditioning, television and a 5264 US, http://nogahilhotel.com). Recommended accommodation choice it’s certainly Parking. Pool. Restaurant. TV. lavillaghana.com). Rates standard US$275. Rooms 22. Credit AmEx, movie channel. Breakfast is also Rates US$120-150. Credit MC, V. an appealing enough option for 70 Mango Tree Avenue (0302 233 MC, V. thrown in. The real appeal here is Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel getting away from the urban grind, 315, www.highgatehotel.com). Rates the location: bang in the middle of with a birdsong-quiet pool area, a from US$160 double. Rooms 33. Accra’s Oxford Street. While many East Legon Backed by 16 acres of palm-studded grounds and a sweeping azure tennis court and a number of Credit V (5 per cent charge). city’s restaurants, night spots and will rejoice at having busy city pool, Accra’s newest luxury bolthole is certainly living up to its different restaurants and wine Central business centres. One of the key delights at their fingertips, there is Expensive hype. Waiters on in-line skates glide across the gleaming patio, lounges. However, the property’s Paloma Hotel markets for the Kempinski Hotel the noise-factor to take into Royal Richester supplying fresh snacks and icy drinks to holidaymakers stretched main marketing push is its The Paloma Hotel has improved Expensive Gold Coast City will be business consideration, and light sleepers Far from a conventional hotel, Royal out on loungers around the pool; the onsite luxury shopping centre conferencing facilities – there’s a lot recently, with a major update. It’s Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel people – no wonder then, that they may wish to consider other options. Richester is a series of ‘Boston-style’ is filled with high-end goods, from catwalk fashions at Stellar of event space – so if you’re here still a simple, mid-priced two-star See Recommended box p74. have concentrated on an excellent The complex also has a fast food townhouses for long term stays or Deluxe (see p52) to Afrocentric art at Joe’s Perspective (see p61); during the week, there’s a good accommodation, offering 65 range of services. There will be a restaurant, lounge bar, bakery and short holidays (US$700 daily, Sankofa restaurant pleases with an array of international flavours, chance you’ll be sharing the hotel air-conditioned rooms and five Kempinski Hotel Gold fully equipped business centre, ice cream parlour. US$3,000 weekly). Each townhouse and the one2one cocktail lounge expertly whips up any favoured with a large number of delegates. chalets in the central Asylum Down Coast City indoor parking and a car and Cantonments Road (Oxford Street) has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, tipple. There’s a great little deli by the shopping galleries, and the Bars (3). Business centre. Gym. area. Complimentary extras include Soon to be competing for centre limousine service. There are also (0302 773 567, www.frankies-ghana. a living area, a kitchen, a dining restaurant is becoming very popular. It’s also worth saying that the Internet (wireless, shared terminal). breakfast, which can be taken in stage with Accra’s very finest hotels seven meeting rooms with the latest com). Rates US$85 double (plus tax). room, a lounge and a laundry room. breakfast is the best in the city right now. For more details on the Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants your room if preferred, and airport is the Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast audio-visual equipment, outside Rooms 20. Credit V. There is also a backyard. The (excellent) spa, tennis courts, sauna, and fitness centre; see p69. (3). Room service. Spa. TV. pick up/drop off. Sharing the hotel’s City: the hotel has a global meeting areas and a conference Bar (2). Internet. Restaurant (2). TV. standard and superior only have Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet (wireless, shared terminal). North Ridge (0302 214 244, complex are two restaurants, which reputation for doing things in style, centre measuring 1,750 sq m. single beds, so couples will need the Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants. Room service. Spa. TV. www.alisahotels.com). Rates offer a standard range of and this will doubtless be no Bar. Business centre. Gym. La Paradise Inn deluxe, executive or premium suites. Independence Avenue, Ridge (302 611 000, www.moevenpick-hotels. US$290-420. Rooms 173. Credit international cuisine, and a tour exception. Opening in 2014, the Internet. Pool (outdoor). Restaurants. In easy reach of the hubbub of Osu,

There are also two apartments com). Rates from US$320 double. Rooms 260. Credit AmEx, MC, V. AmEx, MC, V. agency eager to show visitors impressive Kempinski Hotel Gold Room service. Spa. TV. you’ll find a selection of apartments Hotels (US$450 daily, US$2,250 weekly) and around the area. The fairly new Coast City Accra will mark the (024 143 44711, kempinski.com/ and a swimming pool at this friendly a luxury penthouse. Services include Mid-range Lexington (see p36) is becoming a Kempinski brand’s West African accra). Rooms 269. establishment. Self-catering options a recently refurbished spa, gym, new and upmarket residence offers a 15 First Circular Road, East Coconut Grove Regency Hotel particularly popular destination for debut, and it has the potential to be span one- and two-bedroom Hotels boutique shop, and a ‘rent-a-chef’ cool and calm experience. All rooms Cantonments (0302 770 007, Part of the same group that owns Accra’s expat community and Accra’s most dazzling hotel yet. The Novotel Accra apartments, all with living areas and service for private dining, but there have sizable beds, flat screen TVs, www.midindihotel.com). Rates the acclaimed Coconut Grove Beach travellers, with its excellent menu complex will expand over 35 This four-star family-friendly hotel kitchens, and there are also cheaper is also a bar, lounge and restaurant. wireless internet access and good US$230-$275 double. Rooms 27. Resort outside Elmina, this and cocktail list. There is an internet hectares and numerous buildings, might lack some of the pizzazz of studio apartments without cooking Bar. Business centre. Gym. Internet. bathrooms (the suites have a Credit AmEx, MC, V. decade-old city property isn’t quite café nearby and guests can tap into including commercial and residential the beach resorts, but the Novotel’s facilities. A bar and a restaurant are Parking. Pool (outdoor). Restaurant. separate shower). It’s probably worth as enticing as its coastal cousin but the wireless in the hotel; a conference towers organised along a ‘broad selection of restaurants and facilities on hand, and business travellers will Room service. Spa. TV. splashing out on one of the very Mid-range still has considerable appeal. It offers centre seating 150 is also available. boulevard and esplanade’. The hotel provides ample entertainment for find the necessary facilities. 5 Richester Lane, East Legon, opp large suites if you need space. Some Mahogany Lodge just 36 rooms but has the feel of a The Paloma Hotel rewards frequent itself will have 269 rooms, all at least holidaymakers of all ages. The walls Bar. Internet. Pool. East Legon police station (0302 520 have balconies. There’s a small The Mahogany Lodge is a small hotel far bigger than that, and an visitors with substantial discounts, 50 sqm, including a pair of seriously are covered in local art, as part of a 4th Ostwe Street (302 762085, www. 784, www.royalrichester.com). Rates outdoor swimming pool, a restaurant 14-room hotel in a quiet but central elevated pool terrace makes it a sometimes up to 30 per cent – ask at snazzy presidential suites, and project to encourage arts in Accra. la-paradiseinn.com). Rates US$200-300 suite. Credit AmEx, and a basement conference room. location near the German Goethe- pleasant spot in which to unwind. reception for details. There’s also a guests will bask in comforts such as Sunshades and loungers line the US$90-110 double. Rooms 9. No MC, V. The bar is an excellent space, with a Institut. There’s a choice of standard Not all the red-brick exteriors are as branch in the Industrial Area (0302 an extensive spa with 10 treatment outdoor pool, while tennis courts and credit cards. large outdoor terrace, TVs showing and executive rooms, as well as aesthetically pleasing as they might 248 916). rooms and a hammam, yoga studios a fitness centre will keep exercise sport and a comfortable seating area. two- and three-bedroom apartments. be, it has to be said, but a location Bar. Business centre. Internet and a fully kitted-out beauty salon. fiends happily active. The hotel has Roots Hotel Apartment Cantonments Overall, a good option if you need to The rooms are simple, and best close to the city’s business and (wireless). Parking. Pool (1 outdoor). The hotel also promises an organic several mealtime options including This tower of self-catering be in this area. described as homely rather than embassy quarter gives it an obvious Restaurants (2). TV. food bar, a cocktail bar, tennis courts an international menu and buffet at apartments is a comfortable and Expensive Bar. Business centre. Internet corporate, but not quite boutique – it pull and the rooms themselves are Ring Road Central (0302 228 700, and a flashy outdoor pool. There is a the Garden Brasserie and freshly convenient base in central Accra, Midindi Hotel (wireless, shared terminal). Parking. won’t win awards for design. decked out with traditional www.palomahotel.com). Rates host of onsite dining options, and baked pizzas at La Terrasse. Those just a block from Oxford Street. The Located in East Cantonments, just Pool (1 outdoor). Restaurant. Room Nevertheless, they’re comfortable Ghanaian designs. There’s a popular US$135-150 double. Rooms 65. the downtown location makes it a making the most of their holiday standard apartments are acceptable, by the US Embassy, this relatively service. TV. and perfectly adequate. The Mango Sunday brunch from 10am to 4pm Credit MC, V. convenient base for accessing the lie-ins can pick up a late breakfast at if a touch basic. It is worth

74 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 75 Hotels 37. Credit MC,V. com). Ratesfrom US$120.Rooms roots-hotel.com; www.roots-hotel. 15th Lane(03027013276;info@ Room service. TV. Bar. Restaurants. Gym.Internet. fullstop.mid-priced optionsinAccra theonly isoneof which price, given especially the Osuarea, its additiontohotelsin another great Thisis negotiate amonthly rate. looking tostayawhilecan for drinksandsnacks. Those of source somewhat steep, also aconvenient, if downstairs A cafébytheentrance is cityviews. withfantastic restaurant called for, there’s acosy7thfloor is meal times whenapre-prepared kids. For onthesleeping those door andlike tobeablespace the toclose whorequire families abitmore for Itisperfect area. seating separate hastwoduplex, doublerooms anda a and utensils.infact Thesuite, cooker, fridge, including microwave kitchenettes with well-equipped pronounced. Allare air-conditioned, asthedifferencepossible isquite room if toasuperior upgrading 76 and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accrafor visitors Time Labadi’s pristinerooms andluxury aneyerooms on (keep promotions). these eye-watering of rates rack however given –especially the isbecomingfierce Competition qualityaccommodationin Accra. for thetopspot cost, thishaslongbeen rooms docomeat a and spotless tropical pool gardens, aturquoise gold-coloured standinglamps. While and sofas darkfans, leather colonial cool–thelobbyisallceiling thatretains its high-end resort Labadi isawell-maintained Beach Labadi Beach Beach Expensiv La Palm Royal Beach residents for a small fee andit’s asmallfee residents for well tonon- are facilities open pool thekids. for All isperfect which pool isalsoashallow there the mainpool (seep64).Around right bythepool park andsafe enclosed pleasant KidsThemePark, a the LaPalm way alazySunday. tospend New is inGhana,anideal complexes pool the best because behinditisoneof Thisisashame, best introduction. work –it’s notthe abitof that needs comfy beds. It’s thelobbyandbar wireless, airconditioning, andhave TV,out, withaflatscreen safe, rooms andwell are laid large, clean that it’s avillageStandard complex. is based inround –theidea ‘chalets’ rooms are (whentheyare allopen) have alwaysgood. The152 been process.refurbishment Therooms mind, itisgoing through aneeded new With front-runners. thisin bythe isbeingeclipsed but in Accra, thebest This hotelwasonceoneof La PalmRoyalBeach MC, V. double. Rooms 164.Credit AmEx, labadibeach.com). RatesUS$475 Labadi Beach (0302772501,www. Room service. Spa.TV. Parking.terminal). Pool. Restaurants. (wireless,Internet free shared Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Bar (2).Concierge. Business centre. August 2013. in centrenew willbeopening health from. tochoose A and arestaurant available. hastwo bars Theresort sauna andmassage are services also andtable tennisequipment; court volleyball floodlit tenniscourts, gym, thansatisfiedwiththe more willbe types and fountain.Sporty withasmallerchildren’spool, pool asizable features area swimming a private balcony, andtheoutdoor suites, allrenovated, comewith each Restaurant. Room service. TV. Parking.terminal). Pool (outdoor). (wireless,Internet free shared Bar. Concierge. Businesscentre. was excellent. the service a littletired whenwe visited,but therooms were Someof telephone. conditioning, satelliteTV, and fan private balcony, have air- comewitha rooms, each which what you’re lookingfor. The70 then thisbrighthotelcouldbejust area, thenearby bike toexplore views, andeven hoppingonahotel takinginsea relaxing bythepool, one objective agood doseof isfor accesscitylife.However,easily if thosewantingto locationfor ideal Royal Hoteldoesn’thave Beach an Tema, African town of harbour and the Accra Situated between African RoyalBeachHotel AmEx, MC,V. standard double. Rooms 152.Credit www.gbhghana.net). RatesUS$370 By Labadi Beach (302215100, service. Spa.TV. outdoor). Restaurants (4).Room (wireless).Internet Parking. Pool (2 Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Bar (4).Concierge. Business centre. it. thefew placesto see of highlife evenings onweekend –one added bonusthere’s oftenlive stew withplantain).Asan (bean asredGhanaian dishessuch red placetosample and agreat 215100). Itoverlooking thebeach, Ghanaian Village (0302 thatched and totheopen-sided those andhead –we’dContinental Restaurants avoid andthe Dragon Chineserestaurant theRoyal including restaurants, be taken inthebar. There are several can andsauna.Meals centre andspa Facilities acasino, fitness include takingupthisopportunity.worth Mid-range

AmEx, MC,V. chalet.double Rooms 75.Credit US$185 Rates US$170double; www.ramadaresortaccra.com). Accra-Tema road (0302717235, the Awi Koonaa Street, off Restaurant. Room service. Spa. TV. Parking.terminal). Pool (1outdoor). (wireless,Internet free shared Disabled-adapted rooms. Gym. Bar (2).Concierge. Businesscentre. centre.a business conferencealso includes rooms and menu.Thehotel and kids’mealtime children’sspecial play pool, area witha cateredspecifically for are available,gym andchildren are and hair salon,massage parlour views. A beach – somewithgreat guest rooms and30garden chalets 75 rooms are 45 divided between Thehotel’spretty enticingpackage. a Resort guests attheRamada treat performers of from anarray entertainment weekend vibrant views, tropical gardens and Beach Ramada Resort 70. Credit AmEx,MC,V. Rates US$195-$215double. Rooms www.africanroyalbeachhotel.com). (03027111118, 51 Beach Drive 29. Credit AmEx, MC,V. com). RatesUS$100 double. Rooms (0302 681465,www.afiavillage. Road, 2 Liberia ExtensionOsu Parking. Pool (outdoor).Restaurant. Bar. (shared Internet terminal). thebeach. course, Star Square and,of andJamestown toBlack althoughitisclose centre, thecity isalittlewaycomplex outof wooden masksandcarvings. The of jewellery andan assortment actually ashop–sellingfabrics, is –which and theAfiaGallery cuisine, Ghanaian andinternational offeringBar andRestaurant Tribes(nine rooms theocean), face Hotel’s theAfia Beach 29 rooms of ismadeup complex This beachside atthereception. hand outscubagear to would need staff tothesea, closer AfiaAfrican Village were any If Afia AfricanVillage double. Rooms 11. magicbeachresort.com). RatesUS$26 Ushertown (0244315416,www. HighStreet; Church, off Anglican Behind GhanaTelecom and around US$10. rooms are available Dormitory for spiritualretreats andyoga.therapies, holistic of join inaprogramme wherea massage you parlour can avegetarian and include restaurant shows.traditional Otheramenities and eveningand isusedfor parties in2010 A new wasopened bararea and budgettravellers.backpackers to would but appeal fans, 2007. The11basicrooms have only and given in refurbishment amajor in1997 Itwasopened Accra. central calmwithinminutesof oasis of offers resort This beachfront an Beach Resort Rising PhoenixMagic Budget

with attractive townships, Around Ghana picturesque beaches, and a scattering of forts worthy of a day, Ghana is often called ‘Africa for or in some cases a few days, of beginners’, and for good reason. exploration. Just a mere 25 While no-one’s pretending that you’re kilometres (15 miles) west of Accra, not going to encounter the odd bit of the palm-tree-strewn Kokrobite hassle here and there (particularly of Beach seems light-years away from the ‘my friend, my friend, where you the frantic capital. The most from?’ variety, which can have the important place here is the unfortunate effect of causing backpacker haven Big Milly’s overwariness), the country offers Backyard, which, as well as markedly less logistical headaches providing accommodation, keeps the than some of its regional party spirit in full flow with a beach counterparts. As a nation, it’s also bonfire and barbecue every Friday pretty damn friendly, as you’ll be and live reggae on Saturday nights. aware if you’ve spent a couple of Popular day-trips in the area include days soaking up the smiles. guided canoe trips through the These two factors combined make Lansdown Ibru Heights Densu River and wetlands, and visits Ghana a hugely inviting place to to Solo Forest Monkey Sanctuary travel around. It’s an eminently hire is available at Aburi Bike & Heights’ location. This new place is ([email protected]), four manageable size for exploration, Hike Tours (024 420 9587), located not somewhere you’ll stumble across kilometres from Kokrobite. Heading being smaller than the UK, and just outside the botanical gardens. – it’s down a long and winding road, west along the coastal road, you’ll offers a full gamut of different They can provide tours, bikes and but that’s just how the owners want find the turning to neighbouring experiences. The no­­rth, with its self-guided routes around the area. it. This is a smart villa complex in dwellings Fete and Senya Beraku mud-sculpted buildings and heavy the lush folds of the hills around – set six kilometres apart – each Islamic influence, is effectively a Aburi Botanical Gardens Aburi. Judging by the Range Rovers with their own attractions. For a slice completely different destination to This national park, with the Accra lined up outside, it’s also pretty of history and cliff-top views head to coastal Ghana, while the national plains to its south and forest to its exclusive. It takes around an hour Senya Beraku’s 18th century Fort of parks that colour the countryside are north, was established in 1890. The from Accra (although road Good Hope. The quiet fishing high in potential for adventure. park runs a school of horticulture improvements mean that time will villages are a slice of unadulterated The majority of visitors will take and consists of ten lawns with more reduce), but it’s worth it. There are coastal Ghana. the highway west out of Accra in than 375 varying plant types and eight villas, each with three Also along this road is the this region. There’s no shortage of more than 100 acres of natural bedrooms, a living area, jacuzzi and exclusive White Sands resort. This attractions and sights to be seen forest with nature trails. The park is patio. They are well-appointed and members-only property has along the coast, among them Cape popular with bird and butterfly tastefully decorated. The villas are gorgeous chalets, an excellent Coast Castle, Kakum National Park, watchers, and it’s a great destination also pretty reasonably priced at $400 beachside restaurant and a bar by an the almost overpoweringly colourful for picnics under the shade of for two people – it’s not expensive infinity pool. Elmina and the twin city of 160-year-old kapok trees. for the sake of being expensive. The lively fishing harbour of Sekondi-Takoradi, which has Aburi Botanical Gardens, Aburi, There’s a conference suite seating Winneba, with its sizable beach and witnessed an influx of workers Akwiapim (024 877 2227). Open around 24 (actually one of the main European and Royal cemeteries, is following the discovery of oil. 8am-4pm Mon-Fri. Admission businesses here), and a gorgeous also a worthy stop-off on the journey GH¢3. pool overlooking the valley. The from Accra to Cape Coast. Turn Getting around open club house and restaurant south at Akamu for another pretty It’s relatively easy to get from A to B Ateba-Atwirebu Butterfly above the pool are lovely spots to fishing harbour, Apam, and spend – all the country’s main roads are Sanctuary watch the clouds roll out in an extremely basic but undeniably well served by public transport – Just north of Kyebi is the the morning, or listen to novel night in Dutch-built Fort although countless hours in a home of Africa’s the sound of the bush Leydsaamsheid (Fort Patience). A sweaty, cramped tro-tro might not be largest butterfly, the Top tip! in the evening. It’s all further 30 kilometres (19 miles) everyone’s idea of fun. Far better in ‘Papillio Antimactus’, Getting around built on a hill, so you’ll towards Cape Coast is Mankessim terms of comfort (although slightly making the forest a Flights can often be be working off the – worth a quick look for its more pricey) are the buses that ply must for any butterfly a surprisingly cheap food from a menu that particularly large posuban shrine. the routes between the major centres. watchers. The woods option for travel to includes lamb tagine, There’s an attractive beach and a And the travel pains are more than are alive with Kumasi, Tamale and T-bone steak, paella striking shrine at Saltpond, and fine offset by the recompense of visiting birdsong and there are Takoradi. and traditional views from Fort Amsterdam, the outlying areas. Many parts of the more than 150 different Ghanaian food. There’s a first British fort to be built on the country experience very few foreign species of flora and fauna. spa and a tennis court too. Gold Coast, a couple of kilometres travellers, so you’re virtually Aburi (026 960 1541, www. from the town. Stop off at Anomabu guaranteed a memorable welcome. Tetteh Quarshie’s Cocoa Farm lansdownaburi.com). Villa $400 for for Fort William, a sandstone church To come to Ghana and restrict This was the first cocoa farm in two people. and a collection of shrines. The yourself to Accra is to take just one Ghana and the birthplace of Ghana’s nearby fishing village of Biriwa has bite of the buffet – far better to tuck burgeoning cocoa industry. The Getting there a stunning stretch of beach. into the whole country. original seedlings were brought Taxis or private cars are the best Trips Out of Town from Fernando Po Island just off the ways to get to Aburi. Minibuses Where to eat & stay coast of Equatorial Guinea by the (tro-tros) leave from Odawna station Bah’doosh Bar, Hostel and Aburi eponymous farmer in 1879. There near the Kwame Nkrumah Circle. Restaurant are three of the original trees. Bah’doosh is a bar and restaurant There are a few places to visit that Contact the caretaker at the with recently opened accommodation are worthy as a day trip. Aburi is Mampong Chief’s Palace for entry. Accra to facilities. It is owned by a friendly only an hour or two’s drive from There’s little to see (don’t expect a Australian, and serves basic downtown Accra. It’s a small town visitor centre or shop), but a guide Cape Coast breakfasts and a good selection of 30 kilometres from the city centre, will take you around the plantation drinks right on the beach. The bar is but once you head past the Tetteh for a few cedi – get the price first. While the 165 kilometres (103 miles) open 24 hours a day, and plays Quarshie Circle and Accra Mall, the Mampong, Akwapim, a couple of of road linking Accra’s urban chill-out tunes when someone isn’t city feels very far away as you climb miles north of Aburi Omanye House sprawl with historic Cape Coast may strumming a guitar. Most of the up into the cooler and wetter hills. (0302 769 536). Admission GH¢4. appear to hold little attraction – food comes off the grill, including The biggest attraction here is the other than as an unsettlingly bumpy, the excellent Bah’doosh burger. Aburi Botanical Gardens, but if you Where to stay and in places rather busy, route There is also a wide fish selection, want to escape the heat of the city Lansdown Ibru Heights between the two cities – travellers depending on what was landed that for a few hours there are plenty of ‘Hidden away’ doesn’t really do the willing to venture short distances morning. Accommodation is mainly outdoor activities. Mountain bike justice to the Lansdown Ibru from the main road will be rewarded in bungalows.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 79 Trips Out of Town 80 and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accrafor visitors Time Mon-Fri. non-members can visitbetween even prices.before However, seeing email [email protected] exclusive enoughtorequire you to inGhana.It’sthe bestservice cuisineandenjoytop-notch someof pool, sample the into theinfinity Fetteh; Clubnear slide Sands Beach at thedeluxeprivate members White themillionaire canstay treatment for Those willingtosplashsomecash Resort &Spa White SandsBeach GH¢70-80. www.tillsbeachhotel.com). Double Winneba road (0277550480, theMainAccra to Gomoa-Fetteh, off isincluded. and breakfast There longstays are discountsfor from therooms. theocean can hear TVandairconditioning.phone, You 16 two-star rooms with in oneof Ghanaian dishes. Accommodationis andawiderangeof groups nearby. There’s abarbecuefor prawns andred snapper, alllanded There’s agood jambalaya, king atTillsNo1Hotel. restaurant Fetteh’s idyllic the settingtry beach For toaccompany qualityseafood Tills No1Hotel courses GH¢11-20. 961, www.bigmilly.com). Main Kokrobite (024999330,0242206 available too. groups torent for rooms are GH¢12.Housesare dorm (GH¢59 withbathroom andAC), Single rooms are GH¢22anight with airconditioningare GH¢59. cost GH¢29,andself-containedhuts Milly’s too. Doublehutswithafan good, basicaccommodationatBig There is breakfast. for also open roast vegetables withcouscous. It’s saladandmixed and sweetpotato rosti, roasted and potato pumpkin vegetarian apple options,including well asawideselectionof as aslobster andbarracuda, such fabulously includes fresh seafood Milly’s Themenu onsite restaurant. enjoy atBig fresh andtastymeals Those unwinding inKokrobite can Big Milly’sBackyard GH¢5-8.50. www.bahdoosh.com). Maincourses Kokrobite (0273204425, Food on sale at Kokrobite Beach onsaleatKokrobite Food

against Accra, it’s Accra, against thevery picture capital city, whenheldup but Coastmightbetheformer Cape Cape Coast and Biriwa. Anomaba kilometres along, by followed, lessthanten Winneba turning, (31 miles)onfrom the roughly 50kilometres road, withSaltpond directly onthecoastal can allbefound Anomabu andBiriwa Saltpond, turning; Beraku west from theFete/Senya 18kilometres (11miles) further six-kilometre road toWinneba liesa and righttoSenya The Beraku. Fete leftfor road heading thenforks, kilometres (24miles)from the Accra; Fete andSenya isroughly Beraku 40 for miles) from thecity. Theturn-off isaround 22kilometres (14 turning Kokrobite Thesign-posted Accra. of take thecoastalroad west transport, usingprivate Winneba Road. If Accra’s stationon bus Kaneshie accessed viadirect tro-tros from Senya andWinneba Beraku –canbe coastal road Kokrobite, –including thedestinationsalong Many of www.whitesands.com.gh). to Winneba road (021773070, theMainAccra Gomoa-Fetteh, off Getting there Cape Coast Castle Cape Coast

Guides will try to pick you Guides willtrytopickyou free, then demand a tip. free, thendemandatip. towns. They’ll often say towns. They’lloftensay up at castles and in up atcastlesandin Top tip! Arrange first.

Tipping

gazing downgazing today from itsold listed asaWorld and Heritage Site, TheCastleisnow museum onsite. recommended. There’s alsoa price)comeshighly the ticket in (included 45-minute guidedtour the theperiod, of reality crushing salutary, visit.Thousandsupon a harrowing, undeniably but move intohuman trafficking. ‘market before initiateda forces’ gold andothergoods of export the basefor overseeing fortified a thecastleactedfirst as of bulk the 15thcentury, andthesolidwhite in was foundedbythePortuguese were era trade committed.Thecity theslave atrocitiesthe worst of –itwasherefanfare) thatsomeof Obama visitedin2009tomuch andMichelle already (Barack CoastCastle Cape likely beaware of soberinghistory.sharply You’ll most life italsohasa here, of the pace while there’s to anintoxicating feel –but harbour the crescent-shaped downand wander–particularly by towatch placeinwhich appealing draw.a tourist Thecentre isan Coastissuch thatCape unsurprising inthecountry.beach themostenticingswathes of of town, are meanwhile, some edge of thelagoons mishmash. Past onthe through-the-ages architectural a shops andhousescreate along inthesunshineanddinky trip schoolkids of groups beaches, fishingboatsfringePastel-hued the than abig, badmetropolis. a coastal community redolent of lived theatmosphere in,but ismore jams. Thisisn’ttosay itdoesn’tfeel elsewhere your endlesstraffic for serenity. You’llof have tolook huad fWest Africanmen thousands of a clearer understanding of the the understanding of a clearer oro thesitetoday makes for of A tour makes it which All of and women were imprisoned final destination. To establish within thecastle’s surviving to reach their their toreach surviving majority of them not themnot of majority to theAmericas, off and beingshipped NoReturn’ of ‘Door the passing – before conditions horrific walls –intruly dungeon scratched

Doubles US$25-40. Doubles www.mightyvictoryhotel.com). (04230135, E.30 A/3AboomClose access. access andinternet gardens, conference wheelchair suite, anddinner.lunch There’s alsoabar, servesand arestaurant breakfast, and shower. There isroom service US$40 anight.Allrooms have aTV while thosewithairconditioningare US$25, goesdouble withfan for mid-range accommodation–a of thoseinsearch option for Hotelisadecent The MightyVictory Mighty VictoryHotel GH¢75-200. fromDouble GH¢35;chalets (042 91456,www.hansbotel.com). On road toKakum NationalPark GH¢6-18). courses andbar(main gift shop, restaurant There’s asleep’. alsoa of comfort available thejoy and to‘experience doubleandfamilyrooms chalets, birdlife. There’s of awidemixture and itslocationmakes itahaven for passable accommodationonoffer, there’s but bar-restaurant), plentyof itslakepatrol (andoccasionally its thecrocodiles that for principally NationalPark. It’sKakum notable around 10minutesalongtheroad to lies singularproperty This rather Hans CottageBotel www.baobab-children-foundation.de) Commercial Street (0244723241, Coast. rooms inCape alsohasfive Theorganisation farm. many from itsorganic and fruits, tofu,salads bar withdishesof snack Ithas anadjoiningvegetarian cloth. works andfine kente cosmetics, art and recycled goods, including eco-friendly, trade fair manner of all excellent littleshopstocking Children Foundation. There isan theBaobab of arm fundraising the This littleplaceisthebasefor Baobab VegetarianRestaurant courses GH¢12-25. Next tocastle(0287290539).Main dishes.stir-fries andseafood coconutcurries, lengthy menuof views.diners good sea There’s a withseveral giving screens, areas bamboo andwidegreen platforms withdark-wood atmospheric spot It’sadjacent tothecastle. an Restaurant to toptheCastleBeach For it’s locationandambience, hard Castle BeachRestaurant (US$11). cookery batik-making (US$16)andGhanaian Mamas –alsooffers workshops in project fair-trade Global supports –which US$11). Theorganisation womeninprogress.org, 0244530467, from Women (www. inProgress anddancingworkshops drumming theregular half-day try meanwhile, itspast. by thehumancostof footballers, it’s hard nottobestirred and red-dust fishermen of hubbub atthelate-afternoon ramparts Where tostay Where toeat To your innermusician, harness a fascinating (not tomentionhugelya fascinating stillmakes but for structure, original the years andlittle resembles the Africa. It’s hadafew over facelifts insub-Saharan building European George’s) istheoldestextant Elmina Castle(alsoknown asSt Castle onage; foundedin1482, Coast althoughittopsCape Site, is registered asaWorld Heritage strong linkswiththeslave years and Coastequivalent, its Cape ithas Like key isElminaCastle. attraction it’s why. notalways tosee easy stakes, but Coastinthetourist Cape might play secondfiddletonearby GoldMines).Today it (The Coastof coast: DaCostadeelMinaOuro thissectionof for term Portuguese have adopteditsnamefrom the isbelievedAfrican gold trade, to inthe The town, onceakey port handily laidoutbyMotherNature. key– industries–saltandfish Atlantic ontheother, Elminahadits one sideandthesealife-laden it’s quiteascene. mention theoven-doorblast, heat prey, notto birds of wheeling and goats, chickens cast of you inasupporting When factor strewn withflagsandwashing. pirogues, themselves newly returned hullsof dominated bythepainted crabs, squidandmahi-mahi,all offset tubsof football shirts bygreat batikdresses and of rainbow palette sight tobehold–aswarming a andtruly is aworld untoitself thefishmarket of and chatter clatter like nowhere elseonthecoast.The sights,soundsandsmells whirl of toa little town subjectsthevisitor Thismasculine morning? a clear Ghana thanElmina’s on port fishing visionin Is there colourful amore Elmina Square area. Chapel Elmina, hopintoashared taxiinthe from getting back Coast. When ElminaandCape kilometres between Frequent enroute. bumps speed by umpteen slowed hours, two andthree between takes road from Thejourney Accra. should drive west alongthecoastal GH¢10. Thosewithprivate transport the RingRoad, costingaround from Accra’s mainSTCstationon Four Coast adaytoCape buses head US$60-80). Double (042 32570,www.sanaalodge.com). Health of Located neartheMinistry andconferenceparking facilities. secure fitnesscentre, centre, business café, shops,internet bar andgrill, also aswimmingrestaurant, pool, therooms are suites. There’s Four of air-conditioned rooms andcable TV. optionwith29 comfortable Eshu.Billedasthree-star, it’s a of Coastsincetheclosure hotel inCape This isprobably themostupmarket Sanaa Lodge Getting there From a historical perspective, the the From perspective, ahistorical With thesaltyBenya Lagoon on tro-tros drive thefew

18-hole golf course (flat andslightly course 18-hole golf There’snote –acrocodile pond. an and –onaslightly interesting more Accra conference outsideof facility It’s also hometoGhana’s largest It’sseafood. unlikely todisappoint. GH¢15-35 and there’s an emphasis on Prescott. Thedishesrangefrom Will Smithand(wow!)Jackson, John Serenadiners include Williams, Jesse a lookatitsguestbook:previous by hereRestaurant isbestsurmised View Elmina itself. TheOcean kilometres westfound justthree of high-end accommodation,andcanbe onthecoastfor thetopspots of This hoteliswidely considered one Coconut GroveBeachResort US$40. Double coconutgrovehotelsghana.com). bridge (04291261,www.Elmina, by overlookingterrace thebridge. very good andcanbetaken ona accessand safes. Thefoodis internet conditioned rooms, showers, wireless harbour. Facilities air- include the eight allhave views of great Grove Hotel.Rooms four, sixand astheCoconut the samebusiness Thehotelisowned by by theDutch. built was thefirst merchant house location.It withasuperb property The Bridge Houseisano-frills Bridge House bridge. important suggests, toElmina’s isnext hugely asthename which, Bridge House, Ghanaian fare tobehadatthe there’scentre, affordable, delicious best placestostay. Inthetown inElminatendtobefoundatthe eat thebestplacesto As ageneralrule, figures. life-size painted by concrete odditiessurrounded of generally takewhich theform young men– bybandsof formed ‘companies’ thequasi-military one of themdedicatedto of shrines –each itsposuban Elmina isalsonotedfor Netherlands EastIndiesArmy. the tofightfor Royalcentury inthe19th bytheDutch recruited than3,000Ghanaians on themore investigating.well worth Itfocuses remarkable Elmina-Java Museumis way. Elsewhere intown, the be able to dislodge theminthesame noonewould toensure thefort built castle–they Portuguese-occupied successfully bombardedDutch the Hill. Itwasfrom thishilltopthatthe onStJago fort seventeenth-century you’llbuilding noticeisthe you canmake it. 5pm to6pm–adiverting sightif evening from each rehearsals around anddancing through drumming going alocalgroup to thecastlesees adjacent thecourtyard note, upbeat GH¢10).Onamore atipof ask for guideshere will CoastCastle, Cape (unlike theinterior and stairways of thedungeons canexplore visitors you’re takingphotos, if little extra disquieting) tour. For GH¢8,plusa Where toeat&stay As elsewhere intheFante region, The otherskyline-dominating

Elmina Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 OutAccrafor visitors Time

81 Trips Out of Town of Out Trips Trips Out of Town 82 and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accrafor visitors Time city (445,205– populous it beingGhana’s most fourth heritage inTakoradi,cultural despite Town’,‘European there’s but little station inwhatisstillknown as andacolonialrailway fort Dutch there but are bigplans. to fruition, oilworkers are only justcoming of anendlessthroughput Predictions of a fully-fledged boomtown. timeas for Takoradi itself isbracing in ongoing industry andtheservice is Large-scalebe. exploration lightoilare estimatedto of barrels billion coast here thatuptothree the It’s the oiltrade. off because of community,the international Ghana,andthatof consciousness of collectively) hasentered intothe Takoradi isgenerally called onthego). lunch around GH¢25for – they’relocally asgrass-cutter cooked, savanna (known cane-rat the road sellingfreshly killed,or andvendors onthesideof vultures plantations,circling palm-oil and sugar emerges aftermilesof Elmina,thecity west of hour inGhana.Situatedan most colourful the circularraucous market –oneof isa which city, of thecentrepiece life inthe brother, hubof thefrantic milesinland,itsnaughtybig of and, acouple hotels andrestaurants with area abeachside areas: separate the triplets. Takoradi issplitintotwo In reality, theyshouldbeknown as are together known astheTwin City. Sekondi-Takoradi The two towns of Sekondi Takoradi- tro-tros andshared taxis. Coastbyfrequent connected toCape the mainTakoradi-Accra road. Itis Elmina islocatedtwo kilometres off US$125-145. com). Double 161 4812,www.elminabayresort. By CoconutGrove Beach Resort (054 – thebestbetaround Elmina. There’s andarestaurant alsoapool Wi-Fi, afridge andair-conditioning. excellent. Allrooms have DSTV, accessis views, andbeach sea andbrightstyle.cleanliness Allhave areguests, which notable their for There are 26rooms available for Resort. confused withElminaBeach Elmina Bay nottobe Resort, new town liesthesecluded out of minutes’drive farther A coupleof Elmina BayResort US$162-262. Double coconutgrovehotelsghana.com). (042 91213,www. facilities. wireless internet air conditioning, showers, TVand large familysuites. Allrooms have executiveunits, three suitesandfour 59 standard rooms, seven family There are beach. delightful stripof aswell asaccesstoa tennis courts, aswimmingand parched), pool How togetthere For Sekondi hasa sightseers, Takoradi Tadi, (or asSekondi- 2012 2012 chilli peppers, fishand meat. peppers, chilli hawkforce vegetables, colourful almost exclusively female sales an meanwhile, the centre, colanders. Farther into flip flopsand sunglasses, driedfish, onhead-tops: past goods are paraded of bewildering array straws, anda in tops andstick coconut sellers lopoff unloaded, machete-wielding yams are fullof Lorries colour, noiseandsmells. frenzy of Market adisorientating Circle, town is starker. of Atthevery heart Takoradi couldn’tbe centre of andthecommercial beachfront Road, 0312027085). Book through CaptainHook’s (Beach boatscanbehired. sport-fishing also from here thatcoastand anduncrowded. isclean It’s itself Thebeach strong undercurrent. as allalongthecoast,there’s a People doswimhere but, inthesea area. around thequietbeachfront mostly hotels andrestaurants, isthattherewhich are somegood other oilworkers, theupsideof and engineers be businesspeople, here tendto estimate). Mostvisitors well-renowned for its seafood, is is well-renowned its seafood, for also option, but A cheaper North SeaRestaurant 5am-late daily. stellar-africa.com). Open 32777/23808, info.lodge@ Shippers CouncilRoad (03120 tolookoutfor.week various events onthroughout the option inTakoradi. There are reasonable pricesmake itagreat foodand The good customerservice, anditsdelioptions. African beef Particularly good are itsprimeSouth dishes. Ghanaian andinternational events. Onthemenuisaselectionof and fixtures sports international showing major HD screens andlocals. Ithaslargeexpatriates with bar popular an international BarandRestaurant, Champs Sports Located adjacenttoStellarLodge is Restaurant Champs SportsBar& Credit MC,V. courses GH¢25-60.Open6pm-1am. Beach Road (0312027085).Main regulars nightafternight. upbyCaptainHook’spropped bar themed pub,withacentral nautically- it becalled?)isapopular Hemingway’s Bar(whatelsewould lobster, there but are alsosteaks. assolemeunière dishes such and with focusesonseafood, restaurant identical menu,isautonomous. The now, but Accra, despiteanalmost in was related totherestaurant Captain Hook’s, atonetime which isthe German-run toeat expats placesfor themostpopular One of Captain Hook’s Where toeat The difference theserene between

look inviting on a hot day, look invitingonahotday, The Gulf of Guinea may The GulfofGuineamay but the currents are but thecurrentsare Top tip! exceptionally exceptionally Beaches strong. strong.

accommodation comprises chalets accommodation compriseschalets Hotel.The waterside AfricaBeach A moderatelypricedoptionisthe Africa BeachHotel 11pm daily. courses GH¢14-30.Open10am- northsea-restaurant.com). Main Road (03129131www.Axim 6-7pm every Friday. withhalf-pricedrinksbetween hour ontapandahappy beers imported Ghanaian dishes. Itoffers some riceandother withjollof chicken as well asgood pizza.There isalso gratin, provençal fish andgrouper lobster another one)include (yes, restaurant this German-owned Thedishesat Restaurant. Sea North com). Double US$186-195. com). Double (031 2022072,www.raybowhotel. area. seating thatched baranda toanopen-sided next satellite TV. There isasmallpool rooms have wireless and free All andvillaapartments. chalets accessories. There are alsolarger and colonial-style furniture wicker The rooms are tiledandcool,with hangs around thelarge complex. Kobina Nyarko, inparticular artists, Ghana’s best from someof art Hotel.Modern Raybow International optioninTadiAnother superb isthe Raybow InternationalHotel US$160-350. com). Double (031 2022233,www.planterslodge. gardens are quiet. exceptionally itsmost relaxing. The one of Ghana’s besthotelsandcertainly Thisisoneof in afusionsauce. prawns peppered and smoked black vinegar, oilandraspberry pistachio with good, asbeef withdishessuch wireless. isvery Therestaurant rooms have TVsand flatscreen andall are modern, more house, walkfrom themain suites, ashort beds. Thebungalow four-poster somewith continue thistheme, theexecutiveespecially suites, officers inthe1930s. The rooms, as aRoyal AirForce flying lodge for a throwback to its heritage furniture, filled withheavy dark antique lawns, thiscolonial-style houseis green Ghana. Setamongacres of thenicestinall Takoradi, and one of This isthefinest residence in Planter’s Lodge Beach Road (0312025148, course. golf is nearby, 18-hole kept asisapoorly Double US$85-90. Double www.africabeachhotel.com). Where tostay around alarge andthatched pool our choice. A swimming beach Aswimming beach choice. our bar, withair-conditioning, Guinea, which would be which Guinea, satellite TV, and radio n h uf f of and theGulf over a rocky beach over arocky beach withviews are three There comfortable. dated, but are basicandalittle facilities. Therooms andcoffeetea

Kakum National Park’sKakum onsitecafé Heritage Conservation Trust. shop administered bytheGhana acaféanddecentgift and fauna, ontheflora centre withinformation visitors’ informative simple but There isa wildlife willbeseen. much althoughitisunlikelythe park, vertiginous, views of spectacular, if offerand various viewing platforms 350-metre-long wooden walkway metres above floor, theforest the non-Ghanaian GH¢40).Elevated 40 canopy walk(GhanaianGH¢14, birdcalls, the try of to asoundtrack atthegreenery content withgazing campingtrip.organised For those anightonan two unlessspending or anything thanamillipede more seeing there’s of littlechance intheforest’s deep flora, buried theelusive wildlife of with much monkey. However, of various species and leopards hogs, flyingsquirrels, giant elephants, forest including wildresidents, of assortment are protected hometoan rainforest kilometres (234square miles)of 8am-4pm). The607square 265, www.kakumnationalpark.info, thecoast(03321302 of stifling heat citiesand tothebustling alternative offersrainforest afresh green semi-deciduous verdant sliceof NationalPark’sCoast, Kakum anhour’s drive from Cape Half National Park Kakum flights from Accra. www.antrakair.com) alsohasdaily Air(0302782814, Antrak aircraft. Itisa35-minuteflight. 110 insmallEmbraer Airport Takoradi from Kotoka International 0000, www.flystarbow.com) fliesto momentum. Fly STarbow (024500 up picks astheoilbusiness increase somethingthatwillcertainly Accra, there are regular direct flightsto Takoradi airbase, isthemilitary left) inTakoradi. (see Restaurant Sea totheNorth next stationandarrive the mainSTCbus leave Thebuses fromservice. Accra thequick for take hours around four severaland Accra timesaday. They travelSTC buses Takoradi between US$145-278. Double 32777/26998, www.stellarlodge.com). Shippers CouncilRoad (03120 andswimminggym pool. reception, 24-hour service, laundry access. There’sinternet alsoa safe wireless andsecure security satellite TV, airconditioning, a hasHDplasmascreens, apartments) and22new the first block the52rooms (30in of Each airport. minutesfrom the only acoupleof andis (Lexington), Stellar Group bythe The StellarLodge isrun Stellar Lodge&Apartments Where toeatand stay Getting there Although the only airport in in Although theonly airport

n elit h a fOseiTutu, and fell intothelapof golden stooldescended from heaven Asante –inthe1670s. It’s said thata single regional kingdom–the localtribeswasbandedintoa of ever sincealooseconfederation heart havesurrounds provided itsbeating andKumasinational life, andits placein occupiesaspecial culture street-level dynamism. Asante aware, isabout thansimple more far absorbing placetobe. outside kitchens. Kumasi isahugely fufu women pound Strong-armed through thepavement crowds. baskets wind head-perched out hiplife Vendors tracks. with boom Car radios noiseandtrade. life, ongoing flow of Kumasi akindof makingcentral neighbourhoods, and streets the surrounding soitsenergyborders, spillsoutinto butter.spices andshea hens andyams, fishandfootballs, and underwear, anddrums, pans imaginable. Soapandshoes,beads selling almosteverything direction, revealing zones specialist inevery andcurves spreads lanesandcoveredopen alleyways of Amaze twice. ground of patch never hours, thesame tracing it for Youendlessly colourful. canwander traders. and Itishot,raucous some10,000 work for a placeof thecityandprovides very centre of occupies around 12hectares inthe itskindinWest Africa.It largest of Market, oftendescribedasthe Kejetia gargantuan sprawl of Kumasi’s isthe reputation differences thetwo cities. between simplybut tosay thatthere are huge course, That’s of Accra, nottodecry in many ways intoxicating. more energised,than thecapital,more and understatement. It’s crowded more Kumasi ashecticisan Ghana’s secondcity. To describe to five north andhead hours bus pumping enough–hoponanSTC isn’theart- Accra the whirl of assaulted atthesametime–andif like tohave allfive sensesforcefully you’ve ever wondered whatit’sIf Kumasi Coaststop.Cape tro-tro toJukwafrom any heading Coast.Jumpona miles) from Cape road, roughly 33kilometres (20 Park are foundalongtheJukwa National totheKakum Signposts and dorms. guest houses,suites,private rooms ( isHansCottagefrom Botel Kakum Coastand12kilometres from Cape kilometres itself.park Locatedfour there area, isaccommodationinthe Coastandthesurrounding Cape visitedinadaycan beeasily from thepark dishes. While international localand offers arangeof hc rvdsa ra f providessee p80)which of anarray Getting there But thecity, asyou’ll nodoubtbe hashazy The market itself Perhaps for themainreason

rituals. Expect drumming displays, rituals. drumming Expect its stillevidentfact in someof a was attimesenormous, its wealth regrettably, several slave routes –so goldmines more –and,rather theAsantecontrolledpomp, several lifestyle Inits atitsmosttraditional. itshowcases theAsante his people, royal homage from toaccept palace the of thegates kingopens current Held every sixthSunday, whenthe Kumasi tocoincidewiththeAdae. home though,timeyour tripto something totellthefolksback have first appeared. golden stoolissaidto where the the spot 300years, marking for stood half-submerged has Sword, which Okomfo Anokye museum isthe Close bytothe to fooltheBritish. handed over in an attempt fake golden stoolthatwas isthe episodes. Amongitsexhibits thisandother overviewhistorical of MuseumgivesII Jubilee agood recently as1874–andthePrempeh as totheground city wasburnt and early Asantetribesmen–the Britishcolonialists battles between lengthy wasthesceneof itself theculture’sexplore roots. Kumasi thebestwaythe region isbyfar to country’s andavisitto population, the afifthof Ghana,or modern to seven millionethnicAsantein remainsAsante culture today. toknow aboutneed how relevant the than thepresident, tellsyou allyou figure important locals tobeamore Kumasi, isconsidered but bymany thathenotonlyfact stilllives in OseiTutu, andthe descendant of Asante kingisactually adirect realm’s first leader. Thecurrent who subsequently becamethe Kakum National Park Kakum If you really want to experience you really wanttoexperience If It’s estimatedthatthere are close the Asante king opens the Asantekingopens his doors to the public his doorstothepublic Every sixth Sunday, EverysixthSunday, Kumasi’s kings in a display of in adisplayof Top tip! heritage

there eventually –andit’s similarly main roads inthesouth windup hub –almostall transport a busy aboutmore Kente anditsproduction. latter beingagood placetolearn Mother –andAdanwomase, the a legendarily brave AsanteQueen , of as thebirthplace – renowned Effiduase, include travellers cultural for potential investigation.unrushed for the region gives opportunity banner inthe17thcentury. This brought together undertheAsante the statesandsettlementsinitially Kumasi are stillhometomany of around landscapes green The fertile peace. isahavencomparison, of it,by surrounding countryside the and snarling horns, traffic roadside evangelists barbers, ranting one-minute walkcantake you past anda pace along atabreathless runs thecityitself faces. While Kumasi region hasvarious different in onaking? After all,how oftendoyou get tocall ishighly recommended. experience are welcome toattend,andthe culture’s vitality. colourful Visitors that perfectlyencapsulatesthe it’s fantasy: anevent general airof umbrellas, rainbowrobes anda elaborate dancing, ceremonial en hr r ag ubr f there aremeans large numbers of Kumasi’s locationmakes central it Towns andvillages withgood iealaeso thecountry, the Like of allareas fyou have afew days tospare, If Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 OutAccrafor visitors Time cultural sites to visit, almost all sitestovisit,almostall cultural

Kente-weaving communities.

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galleries and authentic andauthentic galleries sound) to Asante art sound) toAsanteart asthey curious shrines (every bitas Obosomfie fetish range from traditional itself. Attractions day-trips from thecity as incorporate Built in 2000, it has 20 simple and Built in2000,ithas 20simpleand This isarelaxing lakeside stopover. Resort Hotel Lake BosomtweParadise US$150-330. Double www.goldentulipkumasicity.com). Rain Tree Street (0322083777, 20-minute drive from theairport. children. It’s onefor pools, about a shop, casinoandtwo lovelycourts, tennis There isabarandrestaurant, room thatcantake 450delegates. conferencemany including spaces, conference whousethe visitors and living room. It’s with popular withakitchenette each apartments, city. There are alsoseveral hotelinthe international-standard Hotel. It’s theonly really 160-room GoldenTulipis theelegant Asante’s district business centre of Set intropical gardens andinthe Golden TulipHotel authentic dishes. offersCulture aselectionof National at theCentreKitchen for reasonably TheKentish pricedfare. atmosphere laid-back and more a HudsonRd,0322030355)for off toTheDish(6thSt, head Adum), or 11Rd, town (Permpeh centre of Fast Food, alocalfavourite inthe can beacquired Bite attheQuick Chinesefood Substantial platefulsof to year, thisistheplace. just how Ghana’s evolving from year from andthecoastthatshows Accra there’scountry. anywhere away If the influences from of otherareas drawsAsante heritage, incopious somewhere allitsproud that,for thanthat,alsomakesmore it but, awideritinerary of city aspart being the abletoinclude benefit of travellers, thisholdstheobvious well connectedtoGhana’s For north. Where tostay Where toeat

83 Trips Out of Town of Out Trips Trips Out of Town fyou it. canhack – if from Akosombo toYeji in24hours theVolta twiceaweek, the lengthof taken ontheYapei thatruns Queen across theVolta. Longer tripscanbe From canbetaken Akosombo ferries asbirdactivities such watching. and watersports multitude of from offering Accra, hours a Akosombo are acoupleof town of theLake andthe of trips. Theheel Volta, ascanoe withactivities such around the also becomingpopular travellers too. Adventure is tourism there budget but are optionsfor destination, doubt becomeapopular right)willno (see Resort Senchi very new andimpressive Royal escaping thecity. visitors for The destination weekend also apopular Ghana’s history. natural of part remarkable, itisnow anessential are feats But whiletheengineering Africa. modern doubt, awonder of It is,no 1965,didn’texist. before kilometres (3,275square miles)and, Ghana. Itcovers 8,502square electricity. of Thisistheheart with thecountry of supplies much water ontheplanet,Lake Volta, and holds inthelargest body artificial of where thetown’s dampartly famous gateway totheVolta Region and thereserve. of insomeareas canalsobeseen time, the of ago bytherulers century were outoverpeople forced a was abandonedwhich afterits Shaicommunity, theformer of in hillsaround Thevestiges thearea. Se Yo andObonuTem caves, located are reptiles. the Nearby of 13 species mammal and 31 different of species bird, of 175species home toatleast savannah thatmake are upthepark The 52square kilometres of wildlifenearest reserve tothecity. Hills Resource Reserve. Itisthe kilometres) from istheShia Accra, and Akosombo, 31miles(50 rivers. Tema Ontheroute between to hillranges,cutwithvalleys and thesavannah, slowly turning out of about the land.Rocky outcrops jut adventure and there’s justahintof greener, thevillages quieter turns Tema, theland of theindustry pass and Accra, outof As you east head Highlands & Eastern Volta Region US$55-65. Bosomtwe, 0322020164).Double Abono, nearKuntanase, Lake tovillages.rides andtours mountains. boat Activities include thenearby from thefootof stylish rooms overlooking thelake 84 and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accrafor visitors Time also where theWli Falls are situated Lake Volta –it’s of east thearea for hub constitutes themain transport Hohoe The relaxed town of East ofLakeVolta h otenedo Lake Volta is endof The southern Farther alongisAkosombo, the

superb destination. destination. superb makes MountAfadjato a capacity cycling trips,inwhich independent torent mountainbikespossible for hiking andcycling tours. It’s also the region andoffer various guided couple–know alotaboutGerman location. Thehospitable owners –a itsviewsrecommended and for [email protected]) comes Lodge (289547459,bernhard. stay by, close the WliWaterfall itself, make ithugely rewarding. to thevillages andthepool views down stupendous coupled with flowers andinsects, rainbow shimmerof Fortunately, the exhausting. make thehike the humiditycan andnarrow,steep and result. Theway upis asa intimateandsolitary more strenuousmore todiscover, but is thewaterfall of part the upper alike.Incontrast, locals andtourists for spot developed intoapopular andhassubsequently the forest, through smooth, criss-crossing path byfollowingcan bevisitedeasily a thefalls of highest. Thelower part –Ghana’s thewaterfall course, of Togo border. is, Itsmainattraction tothe Hohoenext of miles) east village 17kilometres (11 charming and apeaceful Wli-Afegame, theregion is highlights of the captivating day-trips, andoneof make for landscape surrounding accommodation option. Lodge (093522023)isthesmartest sight. InHohoeitself,theTaste fieldsareand fertile a refreshing theregion’s hills north, softgreen the thedustyaridityof coast or ( Ghana’s highestmountain. 2900ft (880m)high it’s technically fauna ontheway and up. flora At to thetop. thelocal explain Rangers mountain andoffers guidedclimbs the a smallcampsiteatthebaseof (www.ghanawildlifesociety.org) runs ). Leaving the heat of the the of ). Leavingsee below theheat Adi Lake The GhanaWildlife Society you’re somewhere lookingfor to If The smallervillages inthe Wildlife, of course, knows Wildlife, ofcourse,knows National Park is the most National Parkisthemost no boundaries, but Mole no boundaries,butMole developed place to see developed placetosee Wildlife spotting

Ghana’s fauna. Top tip!

high ceilings. Theninesuites are theairy anupstairs room for for even aview from thebathtub. Ask sizable, and withaprivatearea patio obvious wererooms, reasons) for standard rooms (calledRiver View are broken blocks. The74 intofour we saw wasimpressive. Therooms Accra visitedinlateApril, what but from beingcompletewhenTimeOut monthsaway was stillacoupleof drive hotel from Thefour-star Accra. while stillbeingwithina90-minute the river gives itawild tropical feel, Akosombo. Itslocationby town of the large conferences justwest of for 84-room withfacilities complex alargelyundertaking; thatched The Royal isabold Resort Senchi Royal Senchi asBig such nothing like theresorts makes agood While bolthole. With nightsfrom GH¢100,italso isagood budgetalternative. resort accommodation intheregion, this (below) thebest isbyfar theRoyal While Resort Senchi Adi LakeResort now here. extinct rhinoceros, is black which means park’s Digya emblem,themanatee. clawless otters, crocodiles andthe monkeys,colobus antelopes, ishometo This littlevisitedpark thelake. of woodland andparts kilometres (1,342square miles)of compromises 3,478square Lake Volta, of shores western NationalPark, onthe region. Digya around Lake Volta andtheVolta Milly’s to the west of Accra, it’s Accra, still Milly’s to thewest of Where tostay There are three national parks There nationalparks are three (0244 543635).Rooms GH¢100. a pleasant enough place. The The enoughplace. a pleasant Akosombo, onroad todam ten rooms are very basic river andhills. (en suitebathroom, position overlookingposition a andits restaurant outside barand the mango trees, garden filledwith are attractions the thereal TV), but Hotel (07124200). Tamale pre-trip istherelaxing Saam bought early. Staying overnight in inadvancechecked andtickets timesshouldbe although departure leave MoleMotel, for daily heading Ghana. OrangeMetro Massbuses calm andamenable town innorthern Mole NationalPark isTamale, a directly underthestars. themudhouses, be foundontopof accommodationcanalso season, dry basic overnight stays the and,during provide Somefamilies performances. anddance drum their traditional the communitywillalsoshowcase day inadvance (viathePark office), requested a and thevillage If chief. with weavers, localmedicinemen encounters walks –theseinclude offering canoetripsand village isafriendly ‘eco-village’ Mognori sustainability,and inrelationparticularly topoaching scientificstudy, placefor important consequence isthatithasbecomean by many asapositive thing, andone Thisisseen infrastructure. tourist there isvery littlein theway of area. nearby travellers the toexplore achance Bicycles canberented, giving intotheMolePark. deeper much 4x4tours walks,or localised game for point acts asthemeeting and severalspecies. antelope buffalo,including hippos warthogs, inthepark, mammal species swimming There are pool. 93 visitstothehotel’ssneaky topay elephants uncommon for dinner. it’s season, Inthedry not or lunch breakfast, of another part becomesjust monkey-watching it’swaterhole, somewhere where andlookingoutoverescarpment a an Situatedontheedgepark. of 756 4444),theonly hotelinsidethe the placetostay isMoleMotel(027 sanctuary. For purposes, practical Park isGhana’s biggest wildlife Mole (pronounced Mo-lay) National Park Mole National Standard $315,suites$515. 409 170,www.theroyalsenchi.com). Senchi FerryRoad, Senchi (0303 other attractions. andkidsplay among area court basketball afootballpitch, course, There anine-holegolf are plansfor playing river. onthe(crocodile-free) There are for canoesandlaunches iswell areas equipped. meeting with two rooms break-out and lounge bar, whiletheconference suite and restaurant centre, business shop, be alltheusualamenities:spa, that alsooverlooks theriver. There’ll can splasharound thelovely pool willing tosplashoutquitesomuch has aprivate Thosenot plunge pool. large too, andthepresidential suite The main hub from which to reach The mainhubfrom toreach which Two from themotelbybike, hours office, Despite thehotelandpark tothe motel officenext The park to the airport. However, the routes are pretty tricky to understand if you are not used to them. A guy hollers out the destination and route if it is not on a sign. But any other people waiting will be able to help. The main tro tro stops are at Tema Station, Nkrumah Circle and 37 Circle. Locals use hand signals when flagging down atro tro, such as Directory making a circle with the index finger pointed to the ground for Nkrumah Circle. If you shout ‘Accra’, or point your finger up, drivers should understand that to mean central Tema Station. Taxis

Taxis are equally plentiful, and are undoubtedly the best bet for people new to Accra. Most rides will cost around GH¢7-10, but can be between GH¢5 and GH¢15. Some will try it on with GH¢20+ rides which shouldn’t happen for journeys within Accra, but be firm, or just get another taxi. There are plenty – as you will notice from the constant beeping. International airlines African airlines Most importantly, agree the price Getting Alitalia 0302 775865, 0307 015300/1, 0307 beforehand, as drivers don’t use www.alitalia.com 025300, www.antrakair.com meters. It’s worth mentioning that around Air France www.airfrance.com 0302 some taxis will look more like health British Airways 0302 214 996/7, 664856/7/8, hazards than legitimate modes of www.britishairways.com www.ethiopianairlines.com transport. Check for a seat belt. A Arriving and leaving Delta Air Lines 0302 213 111, 0302 783 reliable driver we use regularly is www.delta.com 676/7/8, www.flysaa.com Joseph Addo (0246 480676). By air Emirates 0302 213131, Most hotels will have taxi drivers A direct flight from London to Accra www.emirates.com Domestic flights working for them. They is a seven-hour journey. British KLM 0302 214 747, www.klm.com Starbow (0245 000 000, www. often use nice cars (or people Airways runs a daily direct flight Lufthansa 0302 243 893, flystarbow.com) and Fly 540 Africa carriers) with air-conditioning, but from London Heathrow, and Virgin www.lufthansa.com (0202 250 208, www.fly540africa. they are generally more expensive. Atlantic flies from Heathrow five Middle East Airlines, 0302 230 867, com) link Accra, Kumasi, Tamale Like normal taxis, be sure to agree a times a week. KLM and Air France www.mea.com.lb and Takoradi. Antrak Air (0307 price first. If you walk away, they both fly to Accra via Amsterdam, Turkish Airlines, 0302 765 880, 015300/1, 0307 025300, www. will often come back with a lower and other European departures www.turkishairlines.com antrakair.com) serves Accra, price. Companies such as EuroStar include Alitalia, which flies from Virgin Atlantic 0302 215 200, Kumasi, Tamale, Takoradi and Global Limosine (30 Senchi Street, Rome, and Lufthansa from www.virgin-atlantic.com Sunyani. The new carrier, Africa Airport Residential, 0302 736 161, Frankfurt, and most recently World Airline (024 243 8888, www. http://eurostarlimos.com) provide Turkish. In the USA, Delta flies flyafricaworld.com) flies to Kumasi luxury cars for airport pick ups, direct to Accra from New York’s JFK TRAVEL and Tamale. conferences and special occasions. International Airport, and also from Atlanta, Georgia. ADVICE Public transport Driving Kotoka International Airport Where to find the The airport is six miles (10km) north By bus Accra’s roads are chaotic. It seems to of the city centre. For flight latest official advice Intercity buses, known as STC buses function on one huge game of information call 0302 776 171, (State Transportation Corporation), ‘chicken’ and whoever has the wits, For up-to-date information on travel www.ghanaairports.com.gh. are comfortable, run regularly and wins. Saying that, at rush hour to a specific country – including Accra Airport has undergone are safe for tourists. Buses heading (between 6am and 8am in the the latest news on safety and renovations in recent years, but it west and north leave from morning and 4-7pm in the security, health issues, local laws can still be a bit of a headache, Obetsebi-Lamptey Circle station, afternoon), traffic grinds to a halt in and customs – contact your home with keen porters trying to get while Tudu station at the north end most areas downtown. government’s department of your custom and taxi drivers of Makola Market serves those Cars can still be hired, should you foreign affairs. Most of them have descending upon blatant tourists going east. These buses usually have want to brave the roads. All the websites packed with useful like ants to a picnic. If you get stops within the city centre, so it is regular suspects are here and most advice for would-be travellers. hassled, say ‘no thank you’ possible to take them to get around. have an office in the airport, and assertively. Immigration is fairly Australia agents around the city. All major quick on the way in and you will www.smartraveller.gov.au By tro tro hotels will have an agent too. All be given a 60-day visitor’s stamp, New Zealand Accra city centre is a hectic one. hotels will also be able to recommend providing you have arranged a visa www.safetravel.govt.nz Perilous for pedestrians, one way to a trusted driver who will drive you in your home country before UK get around is to hop on a tro tro, a around for the day or length of your departure. They have started www.fco.gov.uk/travel shared mini van with a set route. stay. Expect to pay around GH¢15-20 checking Yellow Fever Certificates Canada Useful routes for travellers are an hour. Ghana is a left-hand drive before immigration, so be sure to www.voyage.gc.ca Circle to Osu via Ring Road; Circle country and a current international have it in order. Queues can be Republic of Ireland to the central post office via driving licence is required. Drivers huge leaving the country going http://foreign affairs.gov.ie Nkrumah Ave; Tudu station to bringing vehicles into Ghana require through security, so go with plenty USA Kokomlemle; 37 Circle to Osu; a ‘carnet de passage’ and of time. http://travel.state.gov Makola Market to Osu; and Circle international insurance.

Time Out Accra for visitors and the best of Ghana 2013/2014 85 Directory Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accra for visitors 86 Time Cantonments (0302 741150,www. No 24,Fourth Circular Road, American Embassy consulates Embassies and will have madeagood friend. your tripyou price andbytheendof you your entire for stay. Negotiate a day, it islikely hewilloffer todrive you hire adriver However, the for if taxi. isbyprivateAccra charter theonly waymobile, toget around you are not disabled tourists.If for The cityisnotwell equipped Disabled and explosives. andammunition, animals, firearms intoGhanainclude Banned imports theNational Museum. centrecraft or these are available from themain Museums andMonumentsBoard; from the must obtainacertificate from and antiquesnotexempt duties handicrafts Those wishingtoexport perfume. wineand250mlof spirits or tobacco, 250mlof of one pound or 50 cigars duties: 200cigarettes or following withoutpayingimport toGhanacanbring inthe Visitors Customs 16;smoking18. 18; sex Buying/drinking alcohol18;driving Age restrictions driver willuse. landmarks – these we have madeuseof identifying locations. Inthisguide unlikely) are theusualway of Relationships tolandmarks (some that addresses are difficulttodefine. have probably noticedinthisguide Addresses. Tricky Asyou one. will Addresses Resources pavements. of here. There’sis important alsoalack Lookingdown atyour feet the earth. todescendinthecentre of seem holesthat drainageandpot open are theimmediatehazards as such city towanderaround onfoot.There friendly isn’taparticularly Accra Walking www.europcar.com Ridge, 0302 665544, 12th floor, Heritage Tower, West Europcar 0302 761752,www.avisghana.com 199 SoulaLoop, Labone, Accra Avis this iswhatyour taxi

8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri. ghana.embassy.gov.au). Open Cantonments (0302216400,www. 2, SecondRangoon Close, Australian HighCommission noon Fri. 7.30am- 7.30am-5pm Mon-Thur; usembassy.state.gov). Open many leave alottobedesired. although thewireless network in hotels willhave acomputertouse, andusually fairly All cheap fast. andtheyare cafésinAccra internet in Africa.There isanabundance of Ghana isthebestconnectedcountry Internet 7am-1pm Fri. Open 7am-4pmMon-Thur; (0302 211000,www.accra.diplo.de). 6 Ridge Street, NorthRidge Consulate German Embassyand org). Open8.30am-noonMon-Thur. (0302 214550,www.ambafrance-gh. Liberation avenue 12th Road, off French EmbassyandConsulate 7.30am-1pm Fri. Open 7.30am-4pmMon-Thur; 521, www.canadainternational.gc.ca). 42 IndependenceAvenue (0302211 Canadian HighCommission 7.30am-1pm Fri. 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Thur; ukinghana.fco.gov.uk/en). Open Avenue (0302221665,www. Osu Link,AbdulGamelNasser British HighCommission behind Trassaco Valley, a Trassaco arethe developers Trassaco 770061-3, www.elmdevt.com). Airport ResidentialArea(021 No. 8,Dr.AmilcarCabralRoad, already built. residential developmentsare and Charlotte’sPlace– both serviced apartments.ThePalladio Circle, itisalsodevelopingluxury around theKwameNkrumah key developmentisbeingplanned recently commercialandretail.A estate, initiallyresidential,but This companyfocusesonreal ELM Developments www.dreamrealty.com.gh). (0302 815299, PO BoxAD330,Adabraka St JagoinElmina. interest isitsdevelopmentofFort of apartmentsandahotel.Ofreal complex, two17-storeybuildings It isalsobuildingtheRiviera house shops,ahotelandoffices. Accra nexttotheCityHall.Itwill the Octagonbeingbuiltincentral company isthebehind This realestatedevelopment Dream Realty Developers Spending abitmoreSpending time inAccra LONG STAY

listed below. asForex.signposted Acoupleare –often d’change at thebureau moneyis changing Other optionsfor afewamount you for days. need you go. Only change/withdraw the them. You canletthemknow before untilyoucard beingsuspended call toyour inbanksandlead alarms money outinGhanacansetoff will have lower fees.Taking service recommend becauseaffiliatedbanks Ghanaianbanksthey as towhich with your you homebankbefore go, machines. tocheck Itisagood idea from these will bedispensed ATMs. Usually only localcurrency Ghana Commercial Bankallhave Ecobank, SG-SSB, CALBankand Bank, Standard Bank, Chartered reasons. Barclays security bank for from anATM withina machine is always besttotake outmoney ATMs, it but hasplentyof Accra marketon theblack isn’tworthwhile. years. Changing over thelastfew of that hasremained remarkably stable US$1 =GH¢2.It’s rate anexchange GBP£1=GH¢3.04and June 2013 and1cedi.Asof 10, 20,50pesewa 5, 10,20and50.For coinsitis1,5, notesare 1,2, The denominationsfor 2007 andisequalto10,000oldcedi. latest cediwasintroduced onJuly 3 cedi isdivided into100pesewas. The and ismarked withaGH¢sign.One isthecedi The Ghanaiancurrency Money 630, [email protected]). 3090 (0302774 228/0208504 North LaboneAvenue, POBox wide portfolioacrossAccra. Leading realestateagentswitha H Wagner www.domaniproperties.com). ( 221 ChristmanHouse sell, letorinvestinproperty. companies helpingpeopletobuy, embassies, organisationsand family run.Theyworkwith experience inAccraandremains agency hasmorethan15years This successfulrealestate Domani Properties 2332, www.trasaccovalley.com). PO Box117,Accra(030701 looking complex. the VillagioVista,aremarkable Primavera nearAccraMalland also developedtheVillaggio educational facilities.Trassaco shops, restaurantsand residential area,itwillinclude motorway. Aswellasa Legon, justofftheAccra-Tema garden citylocatedinEast based ontheprinciplesofa 600-acre luxurydevelopment Agents 020 2027467/0302768934,

residential premises in Ghana. commercial, industrial and work, piping, heating,ventilation for emergency maintenance, include company.and engineering Services A reputable -basedplumbing Accra www.correctplumbinggh.com). (027 8682232,0541447158, Correct Plumbing Services 531, www.tnt.com) 953 (0302 5 AgbaamoLink,Airport TN fedex.com/gh). Asylum Down (0302257 921,www. Mango Tree Headquarters, Street North FedEx 0302 213090,www.dhl.com.gh) (Ridge Crescent, behindKLM DHL 9am-2pm onSaturday. 8am-5pm Monday toFriday and Usher Town. are Officehours on theLutterodt intersection in Office islocatedontheHighStreet Post theCentral InAccra, airport. atthe from particularly Accra, sent getting toitsdestinationif of Your willhave post abetterchance Postal services Mall. Accra in d’change bureau A popular Mon-Sat; 10pm-7pmSun. accramall.com). Open9am-7.30pm Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (www. Yasole ForexBureau Kokomlemle (0302227409). Gold StarForexBureau thestairs. top of There are signsoutsideandatthe Barclay’s opposite a building Bank. you’ll findinahotel.Itisupstairs in likelywith rates tobebetterthan Trustworthy Street, officeonOxford 394 2197). opp Barclays (0244053705,024 Cantonments Road (Oxford Street), Qwick Bureaud’Change (0302 781706). Oxford Street, 3rd Osu Lane, Off Forbes ForexBureau Osu (0302772962). Opp. UNDPOffice, Danquah Circle, Chase BureauDeChange Discover 8019023100 ExpressAmerican 3363931111 MasterCard 6367227111 410 5813836 4105819994or Visa cards callthesenumbers: payment. For stolencredit lostor cards for don’taccept restaurants Additionally, many hotelsand it’s notatNigerian levels yet. problem growing inGhana,although ascredit card isa fraud possible, Use your credit card aslittle Bureau d’Change Lost/stolen creditars

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and Dublin. Residents of the United theUnited and Dublin.Residents of There are alsooffices inGlasgow London N65HE(0208 3427500). Hill, Commission onHighgate theHigh consular sectionof having togo to the process of thetortuous of half bypassing ghanahighcommissionuk.com), book thevisaonline(www. can now enter Ghana.UKcitizens avisato Australia andCanadaneed from theUK,USA, Europe, Visitors Visas Mon-Fri. station.Open9am-5pm police Nsawam Road, Tesano, nearthe Ghana TouristBoard 9am-5pm Mon-Fri. Kokomlemle Junction. Open Ring Road Central, opposite Accra VisitorsCentre the hotelconcierge. Usually thebestbetis information. accommodation andothergeneral where you canget helpwith Airport is adeskintheKotoka International move frequently. Themost accessible down and andtendtoclose between find them.Theyare fewfar and you can welcoming andhelpful–if are very Ghana, onthewhole, Tourist centres in information Tourist information time (GMT-1). GMT, UKsummer during except The timeinGhanaisthesameas Time excellent sourceofnews,whether Ghana, ModernGhanaWebisan The mostprolifictweeterin twitter.com/modernghanaweb Ghana. news andinformationabout invaluable resourceforallsortsof Ghana Webprovidesan www.ghanaweb.com the GhanaTouristBoard. operators thatareregisteredwith most usefulforalistoftour the GhanaTouristBoard.It’s a glitzyintroductiontoGhanafrom The officialGhanaTourismSiteis www.touringghana.com information. A usefulsitewithgeneraltourism www.ghanatourism.gov.gh listings andevents. large expatcommunity.Up-to-date A successfulsitelinkingAccra’s www.accraexpat.com and servicesinGhanaadvice. A comprehensiveguidetoretail www.noworriesghana.com GHANA ONLINE Useful web links Police 193 tocallanambulance Medical emergencies Fire All available 24hours Emergencies caused somecriticism. –amove refugees includes thathas bought from localbanks. Thisalso costs $120andatthemomentcanbe ghanaembassy.org) details. for It (www.website official immigration Identification Authority. the Check identity card issuedbytheNational nationalstohaveforeign anational resident that requires allpermanent around. turn a24-hour for andmore service a72-hour Add another£20for visa. six-month amultipleentry for visa,£70 three-month single entry a June1,2013are £50for as of Thecosts Immigration. of Director have the previously informed visas inGhanaproviding they Ghanaian consulatecanbeissued countries thatdonothave a available.service Thosefrom although there processing isarapid working days tobeprocessed, typically seven take atleast Ghana application. Visasfor invitation on to present aletterof need coming toGhanaonbusiness circumstances; visitors certain in up to12monthsare granted months,althoughvisasfor three for www.ghanaembassy.org. here: States canget visainformation ecological pieces. as linkstosomeinteresting politics, cultureandsport,aswell news feedwithamixtureof Another goodregularlyupdated twitter.com/GhanaNewsFeed the country. together todiscussthefutureof A forumforGhanaianstoget twitter.com/talkaboutghana stars. Ghana’s mostpromisinghiplife promotion roundaboutofone charting therecordingand M3nsa’s entertainingTwitter twitter.com/MensaMusic latest Hiplife. Best forkeepingupwiththe (www.ghanamusic.com). excellent GhanaMusicwebsite Ever improvingtweetsfromthe twitter.com/GhanaMusic stories. but withsomeinternational business. Mostlynationalnews, sports, entertainmentand NOTE: There isanew law inplace Ghanaare valid visasfor Visitor Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 OutAccrafor visitors Time 192 191

www.otal.com). United Kingdom(0121 2365046, Street, 52 Charlotte Birmingham, OT Africa Line 5050). 4, Tema (022205153/024610 Evergreen Community Supermarket, Plaza,next to Suite 17,Crystal Solutions Maritime Business (022 218700). PO Box 8800,Community7 Road, Fishing HarbourArea, Obourwe Building,Torman Maersk Shipping PO Box 51,Tema (022218500). Commercial Warehouse Area, Bollore SDV Logistics Greater Accra 0302664612 0302777592 Police Airport 0302 662290 Opposite NIBHeadquarters Accra Central 0302761 250 Information line Junction (0302228112). Ako, Adjei On RingRoad eastof Headquarters Ghana PoliceService, Police stations Sun. Credit V. Open 9am-9pmMon-Sat;10am-8pm 823 064,lifehealthcare.com.gh). Accra Mall,Tetteh Quarshie (0302 Dental Centre Life HealthCareMedicaland Residential Area (0302775341). 35 Aviation Road, Airport Nyaho Clinic (0302 227328). RingRoad, next toSedcoHouse Off North RidgeClinic 769 680). Ridge School, Roman Ridge (0302 17 Ridge Road, OppositeRoman Medlab (0302 257140). Sankara Overpass, Adabraka Ring Road Central, near Ernst Chemist (NkrumahCircle). House Carpet Labone Star), (behindMorning Bernswett Pharmacy 771 785). 7 Roman Road, Roman Ridge (0302 Beaver DentalClinic Cantonments (0302784772/3/4). Number 1,6thCircular Road, Akai HouseClinic and 37Station(0302776111). Liberation Road nearAkuafo Circle 37 MilitaryHospital Shopping, pp49-58. opticians, see ones thatare For usedbyexpats. and hospitals andmedicalclinics, Heresupermarkets. are friendly and are alsofoundwithin tocomeby are easy Pharmacies enquiries. specific embassy for dentist,contactyour or doctor For assistanceinfindingaprivate Health

87 Directory Map Accra for visitors and thebestofGhana 2013/2014 Out Accra for visitors 88 Time