38 ❚ THe JOURNAL THe JOURNAL ❚ 39

tr avel Richard and tr avel Rachel Jones at Ocean House. Right, the lighthouse at Hit the Rhode for Block Island breathtaking views rmando Bisceglia is a well-trav- Richard Jones visits America’s smallest state elled man. Over the years, the restaurateur and sommelier has My wife Rachel and I had just began our There’s Something About Mary. scoured the globe for the best tour of America’s smallest state, and just Following that, we strolled around the foodA and wine to use at his Italian eatery a few hours before dining with Armando RISD Museum, before an al fresco dinner Trattoria Zooma in Providence. in the bustling Federal Hill area of Provi- of clam chowder, paella, lobster and crab But despite frequently jetting off to dence, we had flown into Boston, MA, cakes at Hemenway’s. some of the world’s most picturesque with Virgin Atlantic, before driving an On the second and final morning of our lighthouse, where we quenched our thirst locations, Armando’s own “happy place” hour south in our Hertz rental car. short-but-sweet stay in Providence, we with Del’s Frozen Lemonade. is not too far away from his home in Our hotel for the first couple of nights lined our stomachs with breakfast at Greek Then, arriving at the New Harbour, we Rhode Island. “There is nothing better was the landmark Omni Providence restaurant Kleos in the theatre district, hired kayaks from Fort Island Kayak and in life than sitting on a deckchair on the Hotel. before heading south on the I-95. SUP to see more of Trims Pond and Rat beach at Ocean House,” he says. Connected to the Dunkin’ Donuts From our next base at the brand-new Island. Center and the popular Providence Place Fairfield Inn and Suites by Marriott in OH! Spa and Coast restaurant are also five- smart polo shirts shower guests with cock- After snoozing on the ferry back to the mall, the Omni is within walking distance South Kingstown, we were all set to star rated, making Ocean House one of tails and snacks. mainland, Rachel and I joined scores of Mohegan Bluffs of the college campuses, attractions and explore South County, the coastal region only 13 triple five-star resorts in the world Just down the down beach, on Spray other tourists and locals at the popular entertainment in the Renaissance City, a centred around Rhode Island’s seasonal in 2018. Rock Road, is its sister hotel, Weekapaug George’s of Galilee. place that inspired the town of Quahog in vacation communities. The lavish property was meticulously Inn. Fish tacos and a seafood platter with Family Guy. After Armando’s claim a couple of days reconstructed brick by brick in 2003 to We also spent a morning there, and fresh pasta set us up nicely for a tasting On our first morning, we saw Provi- before, there was only one place to start – reflect its rich turn-of-the-20th-century although heavy rain had rolled in off the session at Sons of Liberty Spirits whiskey dence from the sunlit water during a River Ocean House. history, and some of its quirky touches – bay, it didn’t stop Rachel and I loaning and vodka distillery in South Kingstown. Boat Tour, as Captain Tom pointed out the Perched high on the bluffs of Watch Hill, the cosy cinema, colourful gelato stall, and some of the hotel’s Hunter jackets and For the final couple of days in Rhode city’s landmarks including the site of the with views of Long Island and Connecti- pale blue striped towels – are reminders of wellingtons and embarking on a tour of Island, Rachel and I set a course for the famous WaterFire celebrations, the Man- cut, this quintessential New England sea- a bygone era. the salt pond on board electric boat Quon- “sailing capital of the world”, Newport. chester Street Generating Station, side guest house and resort is apparently However, Ocean House’s pièce de nie Queen. From our lodgings at Hotel Viking, we Fox Point Hurricane Barrier and The a firm favourite of the Clintons, among résistance is unquestionably its beach, During our time in South County we went for a driving tour of Ocean Drive, Hot Club bar, which may be familiar to others. where the warm waves of the Atlantic lap sampled some amazing seafood, in partic- learning more about Eisenhower House movie buffs as a filming location from Not only is it a Forbes five-star hotel, its the golden sugary sand, and waiters in ular, the lobster, calamari and mussels at and the Bay Walk around Adams State Coast Guard House on the famed Ocean Park fortress, plus Jackie Kennedy’s child- Road in Narragansett. hood home, Hammersmith Farm – the However, my favourite dishes of the site of the Kennedys wedding reception week were at Matunuck Oyster Bar on in 1953. Succotash Road in South Kingstown. We also stopped off at Newport’s grand- Rachel and I took our seats on the patio est tourist attraction – the 70-room Italian next to Potter Pond, where the restaurant’s Renaissance-style palazzo The Breakers. tasty oysters are cultivated. The next morning, we both went for The following day, we made the most a jog down the Cliff Walk, the 3.5-mile of the improved weather by jumping on Atlantic coastal path that allows tourists a ferry in Galilee over to Block Island, a a peek into some of Newport mansions’ 10-square-mile piece of land which has manicured grounds. long been a honey trap for New Englan- Then, after a trip to the beach, we ders seeking sun and surf. walked to the International Tennis Hall of We rented bikes and cycled over to Fame and Audrain Automobile Museum, Mohegan Bluffs and the Southeast Light before driving to Newport Vineyards in Middletown. Although Newport has an association Travel factfile with tennis, motoring and wine, it is the ■■Richard Jones and his wife maritime heritage that brings most visitors Rachel flew to Boston Logan air- to “America’s First Resort”. port with Virgin Atlantic who offer Rachel and I joined the crew of the 72ft direct flights from Manchester from schooner Madeleine for a tour of Narra- £467 one way. To book visit virgin gansett Bay, taking in more jaw-dropping atlantic.com or call 0344 874 7747 scenery including Castle Hill lighthouse ■■Car hire from Boston Logan air- and Rosecliff, the setting for the 1974 film port with Hertz (hertz.co.uk) starts version of The Great Gatsby. from £31 a day. For an epic road However, we saved the best view of the trip behind the wheel of an iconic entire trip until the final evening, when American vehicle, check out Hertz we had a dinner reservation at The Safari new American Collection – hertz. Room at OceanCliff, where diners watch co.uk/american-collection white sail boats returning to Newport har- ■■For more information about holi- bour as the sun sets. days in the state of Rhode Island, However, it’s not just scenery that makes please go to: visitrhodeisland. Little Rhody such a perfect destination for com. For details on Providence, a US vacation. it’s goprovidence.com, for South If delicious food and drink, fascinating County see southcountyri.com and history and seafaring adventure are also Newport go to discovernewport. on your holiday wish list, then “hit the org. Rhode” for America’s smallest, but perfectly formed, state.