How to Build a Fire
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Fire Bow Drill
Making Fire With The Bow Drill When you are first learning bow-drill fire-making, you must make conditions and your bow drill set such that the chance of getting a coal is the greatest. If you do not know the feeling of a coal beginning to be born then you will never be able to master the more difficult scenarios. For this it is best to choose the “easiest woods” and practice using the set in a sheltered location such as a garage or basement, etc. Even if you have never gotten a coal before, it is best to get the wood from the forest yourself. Getting it from a lumber yard is easy but you learn very little. Also, getting wood from natural sources ensures you do not accidentally get pressure-treated wood which, when caused to smoulder, is highly toxic. Here are some good woods for learning with (and good for actual survival use too): ► Eastern White Cedar ► Staghorn Sumac ► Most Willows ► Balsam Fir ► Aspens and Poplars ► Basswood ► Spruces There are many more. These are centered more on the northeastern forest communities of North America. A good tree identification book will help you determine potential fire-making woods. Also, make it a common practice to feel and carve different woods when you are in the bush. A good way to get good wood for learning on is to find a recently fallen branch or trunk that is relatively straight and of about wrist thickness or bigger. Cut it with a saw. It is best if the wood has recently fallen off the tree. -
A History of the Prepare, Stay and Defend Or Leave Early Policy in Victoria
A History of the Prepare, Stay and Defend or Leave Early Policy in Victoria A thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Benjamin Thomas Reynolds Master of Arts (History) Bachelor of Arts (History) School of Management College of Business RMIT University February 2017 1 Declaration I certify that except where due acknowledgement has been made, the work is that of the author alone; the work has not been submitted previously, in whole or in part, to qualify for any other academic award; the content of the thesis is the result of work which has been carried out since the official commencement date of the approved research program; any editorial work, paid or unpaid, carried out by a third party is acknowledged; and, ethics procedures and guidelines have been followed. Benjamin Thomas Reynolds February 2017 i Acknowledgements This PhD was made possible due to the support of my family, friends and supervisors and the guidance and encouragement I received from each. I would like to thank my parents in particular for again supporting me in my studies, and my supervisors Professor Peter Fairbrother, Dr Bernard Mees, and Dr Meagan Tyler and other colleagues in the School of Management for their reassurances, time, and advice. I would also like to thank the Bushfire and Natural Hazards Cooperative Research Centre for their generous financial support for the project, and in particular Annette Allen and Lyndsey Wright for their encouragement along the way. I would also like to acknowledge the support of John Schauble of Emergency Management Victoria, without whose support the thesis would not have been possible. -
Smokey Bear Campfire Safety Checklist
Smokey Bear’s Guide Keep your campfire from becoming a wildfire! BEFORE … • Choose a spot that’s protected from wind gusts and at least 15 feet from your tent, gear, and anything flammable. • Clear a 10-foot diameter area around your campfire spot by removing leaves, grass, and anything burnable down to the dirt. • Don’t build your campfire near plants or under tree limbs or other flammable material hanging overhead. • If allowed, dig a pit for your campfire, about 1-foot deep, in the center of the cleared area. • Build a fire ring around the pit with rocks to create a barrier. • Don’t use any type of flammable liquid to start your fire. • Gather three types of wood to build your campfire and add them in this order: 1 2 3 Tinder – small twigs, dry Kindling – dry sticks Firewood – larger, dry pieces of leaves or grass, dry needles. smaller than 1” around. wood up to about 10” around. DURING … • Keep your fire small. • Always keep water and a shovel nearby and know how to use them to put out your campfire. • Be sure an adult is always watching the fire. • Keep an eye on the weather! Sudden wind gusts can blow sparks into vegetation outside your cleared area, causing unexpected fires. AFTER … REMEMBER: • If possible, allow your campfire to burn out completely – to ashes. If it’s too hot to • Drown the campfire ashes with lots of water. touch, it’s too • Use a shovel to stir the ashes and water into a “mud pie.” Be sure to scrape around the edges of the fire to get all the ashes mixed in. -
Foil Rubbings
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES Fire Lighting, at Home Fire provokes great memories, wistfully Environmental watching the flames dance around. A Awareness guide to safe methods to light a fire, Understand the impact of human activities on the environment. whether it is on tarmac or in the garden. Time: Combine with our food cooking sheets. 40 min plus Remember there should be a purpose to lighting fires to cook Space: or keep warm. Please be careful of where you light fires, Any Outdoor Space, that keep it in control. Never leave a fire unattended and belongs to you supervise children to prevent burns. Make sure you have a Equipment: bucket of water close by to put out any unwanted fires and to Twigs & Sticks, Matches. extinguish at the end. Maybe vaseline / fire lighter, tin or BBQ tray Location: If you’re restricted on space then disposable BBQ trays, traditional metal BBQ’s or even a ‘fray bentos’ tin (wide and shallow)work well to contain the fire. If you have grass in your garden dig up 30cmx30cm square of turf for a small fire. The turf can be replaced later unburnt. Sand, stones or soaking with water around the pit edge can prevent the fire spreading on dry grass. Fuel: To start the fire, easy to light iems would include dry leaves, bark and household items like lint from washing machines, newspaper and cotton wool. Collect a range of twigs and sticks. This may have to be done on a seperate scavenging walk in the local area. Make sure there is a range of thicknesses from little finger, thumb to wrist thickness. -
In the Autumn 2011 Edition of the Quiver I Wrote an Article Touching on the Topic of Survival As It Applies to the Bowhunter
In the Autumn 2011 edition of The Quiver I wrote an article touching on the topic of survival as it applies to the bowhunter. In this article I want to talk about fire specifically and the different types of firestarters and techniques available. Fire is an important element in a survival situation as it provides heat for warmth, drying clothes or cooking as well as a psychological boost and if you’re hunting in a spot where you are one of the prey species it can keep predators away as well. There are many ways to start a fire; some ways relatively easy and some that would only be used as a last resort. There are pros and cons to most of these techniques. The most obvious tool for starting a fire is a match. While this is a great way to start a fire in your fireplace or fire pit I personally don’t like to carry matches in my pack or on my person. They are hard to keep dry and you are limited to one fire per match IF you can light a one match fire every time. It would be easy to run out of matches in a hurry as you are limited in how many you could reasonably carry. A Bic lighter or one of the more expensive windproof lighters is a slightly better choice for the bowhunter to carry. They are easy to use, easy to carry, fairly compact, and last for a reasonable amount of “lights”. They don’t work well when wet but can be dried out fairly easily. -
F I R I N G O P E R a T I O
Summer 2012 ▲ Vol. 2 Issue 2 ▲ Produced and distributed quarterly by the Wildland Fire Lessons Learned Center F I R I N G O P E R A T I O N S What does a good firing show look like? And, what could go wrong ? Once you By Paul Keller t’s an age-old truth. put fire down— Once you put fire down—you can’t take it back. I We all know how this act of lighting the match— you can’t when everything goes as planned—can help you accomplish your objectives. But, unfortunately, once you’ve put that fire on take it back. the ground, you-know-what can also happen. Last season, on seven firing operations—including prescribed fires and wildfires (let’s face it, your drip torch doesn’t know the difference)—things did not go as planned. Firefighters scrambled for safety zones. Firefighters were entrapped. Firefighters got burned. It might serve us well to listen to the firing operation lessons that our fellow firefighters learned in 2011. As we already know, these firing show mishaps—plans gone awry—aren’t choosey about fuel type or geographic area. Last year, these incidents occurred from Arizona to Georgia to South Dakota—basically, all over the map. In Arkansas, on the mid-September Rock Creek Prescribed Fire, that universal theme about your drip torch never distinguishing between a wildfire or prescribed fire is truly hammered home. Here’s what happened: A change in wind speed dramatically increases fire activity. Jackpots of fuel exhibit extreme fire behavior and torching of individual trees. -
How to Build a Campfire
How to Build a Campfire GATHER BUILD tinder, kindling and fuel together in the sizes and the fire by adding kindling wood to the burning tinder quantities shown before any matches are struck. Sizes and then adding fuel to the fire as it grows. No need and quantities are just a ‘rule of thumb’ - get close to for a fancy fire lay, build it as you go. the descriptions and you’ll do fine. Don’t make any of it too short or too big around. Tinder from dead twigs found on Kindling should be dry, don’t gather Fuel should be dry, split larger wood the lower branches of trees and wet wood from the forest floor. Look if possible and have a good sized shrubs that snaps off easily when for branches that are dead and stack on hand before you light the bent. No green wood! down, not on the tree. fire. TINDER KINDLING FUEL Around the size of a No thicker than your About as thick as pencil lead thumb your wrist No shorter than your About as long as your About as long as your outstretched hand elbow to your arm fingertips Enough to fill a circle made with your Enough for a A stack about as high hands generous armload as your knee Bend the tinder in half and light 1 the center. Add kindling, keep piling it on loosely, give the fire plenty of 2 kindling to keep growing. As the kindling begins to burn 3 begin adding fuel. www.girlscoutshs.org • 800.624.4185. -
On the Evolution of Human Fire Use
ON THE EVOLUTION OF HUMAN FIRE USE by Christopher Hugh Parker A dissertation submitted to the faculty of The University of Utah in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Anthropology The University of Utah May 2015 Copyright © Christopher Hugh Parker 2015 All Rights Reserved The University of Utah Graduate School STATEMENT OF DISSERTATION APPROVAL The dissertation of Christopher Hugh Parker has been approved by the following supervisory committee members: Kristen Hawkes , Chair 04/22/2014 Date Approved James F. O’Connell , Member 04/23/2014 Date Approved Henry Harpending , Member 04/23/2014 Date Approved Andrea Brunelle , Member 04/23/2014 Date Approved Rebecca Bliege Bird , Member Date Approved and by Leslie A. Knapp , Chair/Dean of the Department/College/School of Anthropology and by David B. Kieda, Dean of The Graduate School. ABSTRACT Humans are unique in their capacity to create, control, and maintain fire. The evolutionary importance of this behavioral characteristic is widely recognized, but the steps by which members of our genus came to use fire and the timing of this behavioral adaptation remain largely unknown. These issues are, in part, addressed in the following pages, which are organized as three separate but interrelated papers. The first paper, entitled “Beyond Firestick Farming: The Effects of Aboriginal Burning on Economically Important Plant Foods in Australia’s Western Desert,” examines the effect of landscape burning techniques employed by Martu Aboriginal Australians on traditionally important plant foods in the arid Western Desert ecosystem. The questions of how and why the relationship between landscape burning and plant food exploitation evolved are also addressed and contextualized within prehistoric demographic changes indicated by regional archaeological data. -
ANTHROPOLOGICAL RECORDS Volume 25
ANTHROPOLOGICAL RECORDS Volume 25 ETHNOGRAPHIC NOTES ON THE SOUTHWESTERN POMO BY E. W. GIFFORD UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS BERKELEY AND LOS ANGELES 1967 ETHNOGRAPHIC NOTES ON THE SOUTHWESTERN POMO ETHNOGRAPHIC NOTES ON THE SOUTHWESTERN POMO BY E. W. GIFFORD ANTHROPOLOGICAL RECORDS Volume 25 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PUBLICATIONS ANTHROPOLOGICAL RECORDS Advisory Editors: M. A. Baumhoff, D. J. Crowley, C. J. Erasmus, T. D. McCown, C. W. Meighan, H. P. Phillips, M. G. Smith Volume 25 Approved for publication May 20, 1966 Issued May 29, 1967 Price, $1.50 University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles C alifornia Cambridge University Press London, England Manufactured in the United States of America CONTENTS Introduction ............................................ 1 The Southwestern Pomo in Russian Times: An Account by Kostromitonow ..1 Data Obtained from Herman James ..5 Neighboring Indian Groups .. 5 Informants ..5 Orthography ..6 Habitat .. 7 Village Sites ..7 Ethnobotany ..10 Ethnozoology. .16 Mammals .16 Birds. 17 Reptiles and batrachians .19 Fishes . 19 Insects and other terrestrial invertebrates. 20 Marine invertebrates .20 Culture Element List .21 Notes on culture element list .38 Appendix: Comparative Notes on Two Historic Village Sites by Clement W. Meighan. 46 Works Cited .............................................. 48 [ v ] ETHNOGRAPHIC NOTES ON THE SOUTHWESTERN POMO BY E. W. GIFFORD INTRODUCTION* The Southwestern Pomo were among the most primitive Charles Haupt married a woman from Chibadono of the California aborigines, a fact to be correlated with [ci'?bad6no] (near Plantation and on the same ridge). She their mountainous terrain on a rugged, inhospitable coast. was called Pashikokoya [pasilk6?koya? ], "cocoon woman" Their low culture may be contrasted with the richer cul- (pashikoyoyu [pa'si-oyo-yu], cocoon used on shaman' s ture of the Pomo of the Russian River Valley and Clear rattle; ya?, personal suffix), but her English name was Lake, environments which offered opportunities for Molly. -
Low-Impact Living Initiative
firecraft what is it? It's starting and managing fire, which requires fuel, oxygen and ignition. The more natural methods usually progress from a spark to an ember to a flame in fine, dry material (tinder), to small, thin pieces of wood (kindling) and then to firewood. Early humans collected embers from forest fires, lightning strikes and even volcanic activity. Archaeological evidence puts the first use of fire between 200-400,000 years ago – a time that corresponds to a change in human physique consistent with food being cooked - e.g. smaller stomachs and jaws. The first evidence of people starting fires is from around 10,000 years ago. Here are some ways to start a fire. Friction: rubbing things together to create friction Sitting around a fire has been a relaxing, that generates heat and produces embers. An comforting and community-building activity for example is a bow-drill, but any kind of friction will many millennia. work – e.g. a fire-plough, involving a hardwood stick moving in a groove in a piece of softwood. what are the benefits? Percussion: striking things together to make From an environmental perspective, the more sparks – e.g. flint and steel. The sharpness of the natural the method the better. For example, flint creates sparks - tiny shards of hot steel. strikers, fire pistons or lenses don’t need fossil Compression: fire pistons are little cylinders fuels or phosphorus, which require the highly- containing a small amount of tinder, with a piston destructive oil and chemical industries, and that is pushed hard into the cylinder to compress friction methods don’t require the mining, factories the air in it, which raises pressure and and roads required to manufacture anything at all. -
Bowdrill Block of the Drill Can Spin In
The Bearing The Bearing Block is made of a hard material that has a depression in it that the top end Bowdrill Block of the drill can spin in. It must be very comfortable in the hand Rubbing two sticks together to because we will be pushing down on it quite make fire is one of the mostMaking Our hard. quintessential bushcraft skills. Bowdrill Set The Bow In a Spruce/ The Coal Pine forest Catcher the best bearing block is a The Bearing piece of a dead sapling where the Block The Drill knots grow in a ring around the trunk. The Base Board The knots are very hard and we carve our depression into These are the parts of the bowdrill, we will look at them in detail but one of the knots. as an introduction: The Drill will be spun against The Base Board using The Bow. We lubricate the depression with Spruce/Pine resin. The friction between The Drill and The Base Board will grind them into A stone or wood dust and also heat the dust up to the point where it smoulders. shells work The smouldering dust is called a ‘coal’. as bearing blocks too. We will push The Drill into The Base Board using The Bearing Block. Finally The Coal Catcher holds the ground up wood so that doesn’t fall We look for on the cold earth. a stone with The Bow a depression Our Bow should be ridge in it and use (not springy) and be slightly the point curved. of another Shorter bows are much stone to easier to use but an arms grind the depression smooth. -
Fire Before Matches
Fire before matches by David Mead 2020 Sulang Language Data and Working Papers: Topics in Lexicography, no. 34 Sulawesi Language Alliance http://sulang.org/ SulangLexTopics034-v2 LANGUAGES Language of materials : English ABSTRACT In this paper I describe seven methods for making fire employed in Indonesia prior to the introduction of friction matches and lighters. Additional sections address materials used for tinder, the hearth and its construction, some types of torches and lamps that predate the introduction of electricity, and myths about fire making. TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 Introduction; 2 Traditional fire-making methods; 2.1 Flint and steel strike- a-light; 2.2 Bamboo strike-a-light; 2.3 Fire drill; 2.4 Fire saw; 2.5 Fire thong; 2.6 Fire plow; 2.7 Fire piston; 2.8 Transporting fire; 3 Tinder; 4 The hearth; 5 Torches and lamps; 5.1 Palm frond torch; 5.2 Resin torch; 5.3 Candlenut torch; 5.4 Bamboo torch; 5.5 Open-saucer oil lamp; 5.6 Footed bronze oil lamp; 5.7 Multi-spout bronze oil lamp; 5.8 Hurricane lantern; 5.9 Pressurized kerosene lamp; 5.10 Simple kerosene lamp; 5.11 Candle; 5.12 Miscellaneous devices; 6 Legends about fire making; 7 Additional areas for investigation; Appendix: Fire making in Central Sulawesi; References. VERSION HISTORY Version 2 [13 June 2020] Minor edits; ‘candle’ elevated to separate subsection. Version 1 [12 May 2019] © 2019–2020 by David Mead All Rights Reserved Fire before matches by David Mead Down to the time of our grandfathers, and in some country homes of our fathers, lights were started with these crude elements—flint, steel, tinder—and transferred by the sulphur splint; for fifty years ago matches were neither cheap nor common.