GeneralSchöne Informationberg GeneralS cInformationhöneberg

Contents Contents

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Berlin Tube Map

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History History

Berlin from 1237-1900 In tracing back a few hundred years, that, by the mid-fourteenth century, Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king, it is possible to see how this came had become the most important Friedrich the Great, transformed Berlin is a name which conjures many to be. Geographically speaking, trading town in Brandenburg, with Prussia - with Berlin as its capital - images: a city at the centre of war,war a, a Berlin came into existence as an its own City Council and Stadtbuch. into an enlightened, politically and conflicted and divided city. A city, if insignificant trade town situated economically strong and religiously By the time of the Reformation, you will, on the extremes. in between the two older towns of tolerant state. Berlin had become an important Spandau and Cölln. This central Having been the axis of so much of German town in its own right, position worked to Berlin’sBerlin’s favour as the world’s recent history, it might particularly special to many being it continued to grow and enveloped be easy to assume that this was all one of the first cities in Europe to both other towns within its own that Berlin had to offer in terms of embrace Lutheranism. Because of boundaries. historical interest. But this is not so.so. this, many French Huguenots fled It has been said of Berlin that it is the Though Berlin can only date its own to Berlin bringing with them their centre of Germany just as Germany foundation from the first extant intellectuaintellectuall and industrial talents. is the centre of Europe. mention of Cölln in 1237, it was Berlin Even today, though the name “Huguenot” has become largely insignificant in modern-day Europe, this relationship between French Protestants and Berlin is still celebrated in Mitte’s Gendarmenmarkt.. Here the Französicher Dom andand thethe Deutscher Dom, mirroring each other in design, are monuments to

hadthe for great each respect other. theseDespite two the groups years Even defeats in the Thirty Years War between Napoleon’s invasion of failed to completely destroy Prussia’s Brandenburg and the Cold War, when supremacy. This in time transformed Franco-German relations were at a the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of very low ebb, it is nice to see these the greatest in Europe, related by two rivals still facing each other in marriage to most of the great houses friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt.. on the continent. Not only a trend-setter in religion, This strength, nobility and stature Berlin became a leader in the were, along with the talents of

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History History

Otto von Bismarck, one of the main Jewish people of Berlin successfully Philosopher and scholar Moses In the Weimer years (1919-1933) reasons why Berlin and its monarchy engaged in money lending and Mendelssohn arrived in Berlin in Jewish citizens of Germany and Berlin became the head of the newly unified petty trade. They were confined 1743, and urged Jews to integrate enjoyed unprecedented levels of Germany. to living in a ghetto in the Grosser into secular society and by 1778 these freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on enlightened ideas found expression taking the stage, Jewish composers Despite the later failures of this Judenstrasse (Jew Street). in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish including Arnold Schoenberg’s works system in the early years of the Free School) that combined religious being performed, Max Liebermann 20th century, this age of a strong Following the devastation of the learning with general education. and Lesser Ury creating beautiful and enlightened German Empire, Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt paintings and musicians such as the led from Berlin, remained in the to achieve an economic upswing by Though the 1812 Emancipation Comedian Harmonists at the height European psyche for many years. increasing population, the Great Edict that declared Jewish people of popularity. The Jewish population Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50 equal citizens was in the most continued to grow and by 1933 prosperous Jewish families that were part quickly retracted, there was 160,000 Jews called Berlin home. Jewish History of Berlin expelled from Vienna to settle in the a general loosening on Prussia’s

The history of the Jewish community wereBrandenburg permitted region to stay in 1671. under They the itsrestrictions Jewish population.and growing By equality 1869 thefor onAt thethe samerise and time the anti-Semitism years leading was up is plagued by episodic persecution, condition that they pay an annual new North German Confederation to the ascendance of Nazi power saw Jews often being used as a scapegoat protection fee, engage in only passed a law on the equal rights of increasing attacks on members of the for economic and social woes. certain businesses and worship only religious confession Jewish community. State- By 1295 Jewish people in Berlin were in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish and declared the backed persecution barred from many professions and community of Berlin was officially emancipation of ensued after the effectively forbidden to become founded. Jewish people Nazis took power in within its territory 1933, and with the members of the artisan guilds. Despite suffering restrictions on and by 1871 German 1935 Nüremberger religion, residence and family size Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries Jews had equal Gesetze (Nuremberg Jews were expelled from Berlin and as well as extra taxes, the Jewish let back in time and again, accused population of Berlin grew and by fewrights. years Withinmembers aa citizensLaws) the of Germany Jewish 1700 the city’s Jewish slums had of acts such as the rampant plague of the Jewish were effectively approximately 1,000 residents. InIn in Berlin and Brandenburg, which community rose to deprived of social and 1714 the first synagogue of Berlin was had been sweeping across Europe; prominence in government, many economic rights via the introduction dedicated. As excellent merchants and host desecration; which meant as close advisors to the Kaiser. By of apartheid-like classifications of and bankers, by halfway through the that Berlin had virtually no Jewish the turn of the century, there were “racial purity”. 18th century the Jewish community community for a century. more than 110,000 Jews in Berlin, totaled close to 2,000 and they had Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish comprising more than 5% of the total Between expulsions and being become among the richest people in community life increased as Jewish population. banned from most other trades, the Berlin. citizens were forced to send their

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History History

children to segregated schools and This night is known as citizens were banned from public and even by 1988 the East German forbidden from interacting with Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken transport, their food rations Jewish community had less than 200 non-Jews. Those who could see theeth Glass, a nationwide attack on the were reduced and thousands members. writing on the wall and had money Jewish people that resulted in the were deported, mostly to the In West Berlin, the German Jewish escaped while they could, though death of 36 of Berlin’s Jews, many Theresienstadt and Auschwitz community had about 6,000 even such escape was a limited were beaten on the streets while concentration camps. members, constituting opportunity, as other European passers-by looked on; the destruction By the end of the war, the largest Jewish countries, the US and Palestine all of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of Hitler’s mass genocide community in Germany. restricted Jewish immigration. hundreds of shops and businesses. had reduced Berlin’s After the two Berlin German Jewish citizens were then In retaliation for the assassination Jewish population by Jewish communities required to pay one million marks to of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath, around 96 per cent to were reunited with the repair the damages. who was killed by a 17-year-old about 6,500. Survivors fall of the Berlin Wall, Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish managed to escape the federal government

GoebbelsReich Minister called of Propaganda for a nationwide Joseph times,citizens and to thewear first a massyellow deportations star at all beingdeath hidden often by throughgentile forapproved Jews from refugee the former status pogrom on November 9th 1938. from Berlin marked the beginning of families at great Soviet Union and since the systematic large-scale genocide personal risk or by then over 50,000 Jewish of German JeJews.ws. Before the end of evading final round-ups people have immigrated the war over 55,000 Jewish residents through legal conditions to Germany, with Berlin of Berlin were deported. such as irreplaceable more than doubling its skills vital to the war congregation members In January 1941 the Wannsee effort or being married to a non-Jew. to over 12,000. Conference resolved and planned the Only about 2,000 returned from the so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage Since reunification several steps concentratconcentrationion camps. (Final Solution to the Jewish have been taken to preserve Jewish Question) – the removal of all Jews In 1946 the Jewish community was history including the opening of the to the East and, implicitly, their officially recognized again as a Jewish Museum and the decision by extermination. The Final Solution public body, and a large number of the German Bundestag to erect the began to be put into effect, and Eastern European Jews immigrated Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden life for the Jewish citizens in Berlin to Berlin. As a result of intense Europas (Memorial for the Murdered became increasingly unbearable. anti-Semitic persecution in East Jews of Europe) according to the Germany, many members of the design by Peter Eisenman. All Jewish schools and institutions Jewish community fled to the west. were closed down, the Jewish As a result, the Jewish community of community was disbanded, Jewish East Berlin was almost non-existent,,non-existent

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History History

The puzzle of the Berlin Wall punishable by death. There was the historic port in Cape TTown,own, South 21 different countries; previously it nothing the Western Berlin police Africa; the entrance of the Basilica was only allowed for West Germans. An anti-capitalistic protective barrier could do to stop this. Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal; The Gallery is not just for the artistic with concrete pads, barbwire and A sad chapter in German history was the Vatican garden; the 6km long exploration of the Wall’s demise, but watchtowers held the East German green stream Cheonggyecheon in for the memory of the dead refugees. put to an end when the Wall was population from running away. South Korean city of Seoul; the EU During the Wall’s 20th anniversary torn down in 1989, and as a result Parliament in Belgium; as well as former artists were brought to the “A wall is a hell of a lot better than the unification of Germany ensued. places in Strasbourg, Riga, London, capital city to remove the traces war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon Of over 100 watchtowers three Canberra and Montréal. The biggest of the last 18 years. The graffiti hearing about the construction of are kept. Even some of the former Wall piece outside of Germany is has suffered extensive damage the Berlin Wall. border crossings located in “Freedom Park” near due to visitors and attacks from Nevertheless, are still clearly Arlington, Virginia. Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers). for about recognizable, with A €2.5 million renovation is underway 28 years the the most well- The well-known East Side Gallery was 160km long and should be ready by Autumn known transition wall encased a at Checkpoint painted in 1990 by 118 artists from whole nation. Charlie. Between 1949 The wall was and 1961, broken up and 2 . 5 m i l l i o nn the remaining pp ee oo pp ll ee sections becoming escaped from memorials and the German museums for the Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying fallen. The Todesstreifen (death to get over the wall, or hiding in zone) can still be seen in many traffic that was allowed to go through places. Some have been left as the barriers. The accurate number of large areas of brown, uncultivated people who were shot down when land, while other parts have been they tried to escape varies according turned into parks. The pieces of to different sources. Many memorials wall that were torn down and give an account of the GDR fugitives’ demolished were sent to museums tragic destiny: bleeding to death and universities across the world, after being shot by border patrol and made into souvenirs for tourists. soldiers. Escape from the German republic was classified as treason, Wall sections decorate, for example,

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History History

2009. The maintenance of the wall should definitely go to the following BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies plays a major role, since it is both places. They will clear all important an important monument to the questions and satisfy your thirst for Looking back on Berlin’s reunificationreunification,, as well as a Certificate knowledge. history begs the question of European and world culture. of how the bear became its symbol. Unfortunately Anyone can acquire a valuable City Museum of Berlin it is not clear what was memory in the form of a piece of the www.stadtmuseum.de here first; Berlin or the Wall. Pieces come in different sizes, Am Köllnischen Park 5 bear. It wasn’t until 1280 which are also available online, up U-Bahn/S-BaU-Bahn/S-Bahn:hn: JannowitzbrücJannowitzbrückeke when the bear became the to $150. However, if you want to see TTel:el: +49 3 024 002 159159 heraldic animal of Berlin. more than just a 2x2cm piece, the Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm Today its image is still opportunity as a tourist in Berlin is Wed 12-8pm used for advertisements huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser Price: €4 on different logos, c e r t i f i c a t i o n s , Gate,Platz innext Mauerpark to the along Brandenburger Bernauer Haus am Checkpoint Charlie www.mauermuseum.de newspapers, publications, Strasse (National Monument, U agencies, stamps and U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße even more in and around Tel: +49 302 537 250 with the longest preserved part of Berlin. The bear even the wall about 1.3km. Mo- Su 9am- 8pm Price: €7.50-12.50 became a permanent part Those interested in the history of of the city’s flag in 1908. the GDR and the fall of the Wall Chapel of Reconciliation Berlin bear art is scattered www.kapelle-versoehnung.de all over the city in the Bernauerstr. 4 form of sculptures, plastic models and architecture, TTel:Serviceel: +49 to304 remember 636 034 the victims most of which are hidden (Sunday 10am) amongst the less tourist- Tue-Sun 10am-5pm prone areas. Some have also just been rebuilt TTopographieopographie of Terror after they got eliminated www.topographie.de or damaged during the Niederkirchnerstr. 8 Nazi regime. Today, TTel:el: +49 3 025 450 950950 especially in Prenzlauer Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am- Berg, there are many furry

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History History

inhabitants decorating the appear as feared creatures but rather Some of the bear art pieces are also streets. In the middle of as cute clumsy bears, which delight used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz the public Volkspark lives the pedestrians who pass over the had the idea to paint bear sculptures, the most colorful bear bridge. Around this area small cafes sell them at auctions and give the in Berlin. He was born in and a cozy restaurant at the Spree money to UNICEF and other children 1970 and fell pray to some River invite everybody to sit down aid organizations. In this way they graffiti artists in the last and relax. could donate more than two million couple of years. However dollars in the last eight years. Jackie One of the most important bear art they decided to keep him Chan even brought the idea of the pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished blue and call him Käpt’n United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong. fountain, which was rebuilt after Blaubär (Captain Blue Everybody can support this project, being destroyed during World War bear) which is now a great take part in the competition and II. Sutowski made his artwork out attraction for children maybe get the chance to give a of red Lava Tuff stone which gives who know this bear from buddy bear a new fur colour. TVTV.. fountainit an interestingis decorated pattern.with one bear This If you want to get a shot of this At the Moabiter Bridge in the center and eight smaller bears famous Berlin symbol- just keep your (Bartningallee) there around, almost as if the mother bear eyes open and wherever you may go are four different bears is watching her children frolic. you will always find a bear. designed by four sculptors each at a different location. The bridge was built between 1893 and 1894 and was rebuilt due to war damage between

bears1980 and are 1981. positioned The stone on all fours and appear to be giant when standing in front of them, their huge paws and enormous claws making them appear even larger. Their bodies look big and round, nevertheless they do not

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Survival Guide Survival Guide

erlin is a lovely place to see and explore, but just • TTakeake carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged. to make your visit that much more enjoyable, BB • There is ois oftenften a deposit oror pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and we’ve gathered some useful information to help you get by in the city. tobars. the If supermarket your bottle saysrecyclingPfand machine, zuruck ororwhichPfand gives Flasche you ayou slip can to take take to it Culture and etiquette the counter and get your money back. Most bars will telltell you if your glass needs to be returned to get your deposit back. Berlin generally has a laid back and accepting attitude to most things, although there is an • It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit underlying sense of respect for rules and authority. cards. • Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon -- Transport offenders will more frequently be reprimanded The city has a well integrated and by onlookers than the police. efficient public transport network. • Although a smoking ban was recently At first glance it may appear quite introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars. complex, but the interconnecting It is best to ask before you light up. suburban (S-Bahn) and underground (U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and • Service chargescharges in bars/restbars/restaurantsaurants are normally includedincluded in the bill, bus services ensure you won’t be left although it is quite common to round up to the nearestnearest euro in most cases. stranded. Useful tips The U-Bahn service closes between • • For a quick view of the main Berlin area, bus routes 100 and 200 are midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm- midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz. where other transport is good, otherwise they run a lilimitedmited night service. • • Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm. Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket, You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate. undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand out fines of €40 – better to be safe than sorry! • • Tip and Zitty are fortnightlfortnightlyy entertainments guides, with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the before your journey. nightlife lists are easy to decipher. Cycling in Berlin •• Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffic separate bins for plastic and glass. and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why

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Survival Guide Survival Guide

don’t you cycle in Berlin? It’s flatter days, but if you are spending a few markets are quite cheap. • Keep a good lookout when riding than London and less chaotic than weeks or longer in Berlin it is well- alongside pedestrians or cars. Both • Look before walking across a bike Amsterdam. With over 800kms of flat worth investing your money in a bike. can be dangerous and you’re in the land, parks, gardens and bike routes, The average price to rent is €15 per someonepath. Sometimes to get angry cyclists with lookand will for worst position to go flying. look no further than Berlin’s cycling day, and most places will hold onto verbally lash out. • Enjoy riding around Berlin. It is network. a cash deposit or your passport until good fun, keeps you fit and gets you • Buy a bike ticket if you need to take Many hostels will recommend or rent you bring the bike back. around with a lot less stress. your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside out bikes from a few hours to a few The best place to look for second- of rush hour). Bikes are free when hand bikes are flea-markets, you have a monthly ticket. particularly Mauer Park, • Get off your bike and walk in busy where you can pick up a areas, or ride on the road. bike for as little as €40.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Important Information If you are hardcore and bring or buy your own bike, www.FatTireBikeToursBerlin.com Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn: it’s best to remember the Alexanderplatz. TTel:el: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr following, whether biking or 16 – Sep 30). walking: The perfect combination of getting to know Berlin andand getting active is • Remember that traffic is to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less on the right-hand side of time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus. the road. Bike paths, even on the footpath, also follow Youpast willthe rideReichstag. along UnterStops areden madeLinden, at throughall the main the Bsightsrandenburg for your Tor happy and this rule. snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each • Buy a pump and tyre repair place. kit, or at least know a few There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the locations of Bike Doctors, Berlin Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent just in case. There is a lot ofof out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide broken glass on the streets Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services. in Berlin. • Get a good lock. The flea

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Survival Guide Survival Guide

Airports done in a number of ways: online; Useful words/phrases telephone; or the olde traditional Tegel Airport way…visit the hostel and book a Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 bed there and then. Booking online however is quick, simple and often EEnngglliisshh GGeerrmmaann Tegel is 8km from the city centre, Yes, No Ja, Nein which is easy and cheap to reach cheaper. You could book via the by bus. The number 109 stops at hostel’s website, but we recommend PPlleeaassee BBiittttee Zoologischer Station, or you can using hostel search engines such You’re welcome Bitte catch the U-Bahn. as HostelWorld.com. It is one of the easiest search engines to use, Thank you Danke Schönefeld even for technophobes. Search by Good Morning Guten Morgen TTel:el: +49 1 805 000 186 area, price or browse the customer Good Day Guten Tag EEnnttrraannccee EEiinnggaanngg ratings to find the best hostel for GGoooodd EEvevenniningg GGuuttenen AbAbeenndd ExitExit Ausgang South of the city centre, Bus 171 you. Keep an eye out for discounts can take you from the airport to when booking online. Goodbye Tschüss I wououldwI ld lilikeke...... IcIch mh möcöchthte.e..... Flughafen Berlin Schönefeld railway (informal) Do you speak Sprechen Sie station. From there you can catch How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash on arrival but each is different so Goodbye AufAuf English? Englisch? the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains (formal) Wiedersehen into the city, 20kms away. keep that in mind when browsing. 11 eeiinnss A small deposit is required when How are you? Wie geht es 22 zzwweeii Accommodation Information booking over the internet to ensure (formal) Ihnen? 33 dreidrei your bed is held, and is especially Berlin has a number of hostels that How are you? Wie geht’s? worth doing during busy holiday 44 viervier provide all the necessary facilities: (informal) periods (May to September). 55 fünf bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI; Today Heute laundry facilities; plus added bonuses 66 sseecchhss like leisure and entertainment TToommoorrrrooww MMoorrggeenn Yesterday Gestern 77 sieben facilities – bar; games room; TV room; 88 aacchhtt and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes Excuse me Entschuldigung these are free or you may have to WWhheerree iiss...... ?? WWoo iisstt...... ?? 99 nneeuunn pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to How, When, Wie, Wann, 1100 zzeehhnn go through these offers and decide Why? Warum? 2200 zzwwaannzziigg what is important to you and what WoWomenmen’’ss toitoiletletssDamen/en/FraFraueuenn Dam 5050 fünfzig you can do without. MMeenn’’ss totoililetetss HHeerrrreenn//MMäännnenerr 100100 ein hundert Booking a bed is easy and can be

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Day Trips Day Trips

Day trips out of Berlin Potsdam When you just need some time out S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof from the hustle and bustle of crazy for regional trains. city life, hop on a train and see Only twenty minutes by train, what the end of the line holds. From Potsdam has just as much history as castles to beaches and even film Berlin. With the royal Park Sanssouci studioes, Berlin’s surroundings are and the film park Babelsberg, there just as fun as the inner city. are many activities to fill your time. Historically Potsdam has been around since AD 993, although it was bombed heavily during World War II. Potsdam is a small town and the main street is your average cafe and shopping strip. A lot of buildings are also being rebuilt. Wander a little further and you will find the original Brandenburger Tor, smaller but still impressive. The royal palace - Schloss Sanssouci - was home to Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the the Kings of Prussia until 1918. TheThe 1745 and 1747, is flanked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700 important Potsdam Conference was side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, andand held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in. Friedrich’s summer palace stands all met to discuss how to deal with Head back to town and take in Germany after World War II. andabove greenhousesfour layers of – steps, these gardens were the film park Babelsberg. This was where many films, including those of When you walk from town, take the built into the walls to protect the the silent era and Nazi propaganda back entrance into Park Sanssouci. hundreds of fig trees during winter. were produced. It is still an active Walk through Friedenskirche, Church Maybe they were a personal favourite and important part of European film of Peace, where the view between of Friedrich the Great? the concrete pillars will make you production. Some of the more recent feel like Alice in WonderlaWonderland,nd, looking Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace films produced there include The out into a splash of colour with the built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy; lake, trees and flowers in full bloom. guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader, overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008.

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Day Trips Day Trips

Freibad Müggelsee water is natural and flat. It’s great there to gawk will be treated with for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get for throwing a ball around and some hostility, so make sure you’re quite busy, so head there early to Fürstenwalder Damm 838, playing horse with your friends. As ready to fully participate in this claim a spot. Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777. the beach does get quite crowded, aspect of German culture if you If you can’t beat your sightseeing S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61: especially on sunny weekends, choose to visit the nudist area. addiction, nearby is the Allied Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept getting there early to claim a prime museum, good for a visual 9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions. sun-bathing spot is recommended. Krumme Lanke understanding of the Berlin Airlift From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes Though not Berlin’s most central S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open and American presence in the city about 45 minutes. swimming area, this is a perfectly all day, every day; free. during much of the 20th century. pleasant sunny day outing. With TheThe Freikörperkultur (nudist) Allied Museum: www.. www Also close by is the Wannsee Villa, volleyball and basketball courts, section of the beach is separated where the Nazis mapped out the snacks and drinks for sale, and a alliiertenmuseum.de. U-Bahn: Oskar- from the Freibad (open-air bathing Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s. restaurant close by, this inland beach area) by 200m of forest. If you’re All in all an enjoyable day out worth on the north shore of East Berlin’s 10am-6pm. interested in experiencing some of having if just to see another side to biggest lake boasts a large sun- Germany’s nudist culture get off Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex the multifaced city. bathing and swimming area. the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/ Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee Although a sandy forefront, the Müggelseedamm for the FKK section Konferenze: www.ghwk.de. Mon-Sun of the beach. TTouristsourists who are justjust 10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop “Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”.. If you’re looking for a change from the busy and hectic city centre, a short trip to Schlachtensee Station is a great way to spend a relaxing (and free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk from the station, Krumme Lanke is surrounded by the trees of the Grunewald Forest and can provide the tranquillity and rest your feet so much desire. It’s possible to swim, row and walk around in the area, and you can grab lunch from a cheap but cheerful café next to the station. Currywurst, bratwurst and more go

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Day Trips Day Trips

S a c h s e n h a u s e nn thought-provoking and encompasses that the Nazis deemed as racially the GDR the remains of some 10,000 Concentration Camp and the many horrors of recent German or biologically inferior such as prisoners were found in mass graves. history. homosexuals and Jews. The extensive horrors which took place at Sachsenhausen during the Memorial The camp was built in 1936 under During this period, tens of thousands Nazi and GDR years are memorialised www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen. Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler died at the camp from starvation, by the national monument that de. de. Memorial and Museum as a model for future concentration forced labour, mistreatment and towers over the grounds. Sachsenhausen. Straße der camps. Between 1936 and 1945 extermination. Soviet Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn: more than 200,000 people were and Polish forces The barren landscape Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000. interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially, liberated the camp on and the original barracks, Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free. the majority of these prisoners April 22, 1945 - sadly prison and security fencing Reminders of Berlin’s turbulent past were political opponents of Hitler’s however, 300 of the are eerily suggestive of are all over the city, however a visit to government: communists, social remaining inmates died the extensive suffering Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp democrats and trade unionists. This from malnutrition and which occurred. In near Oranienberg is particularly soon widened to include anyone illnesses before they had particular the grim the chance to leave. The sights of the mortuary, mass grave in which these living quarters and prisoners are interred is infirmary invite visitors to a particularly distressing contemplate experiences part of the camp. of the prisoners. Invest in the audio guide for €3 The horrors of in order to fully grasp Sachsenhausen did not the harrowing historical cease after the fall of the importance of the site. Nazis. From August 1945 First-hand accounts the Soviet secret police reopened the camp for displayed in the museums and played on the audio the detention of their guide serve to emphasise own political prisoners the traumatic effect and war criminals; Hitler’s fascist rule had on this included anyone millions of lives. suspected of opposition. By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eye- of war, suspected former Nazis and opening experience which reiterates Soviet political dissenters, were the cold reality of World War II and incarcerated there. After the fall of the subsequent Soviet regime.

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Mitte Information

Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s Platz is perhaps one of the busiest most famous Boulevards, a 1.5km- places found in Berlin. Cluttered with long stretch panning east from the shops, a central station and various Brandenburg Gate up to Museum fountains, it is something to be seen Island. Developed as a showpiece if only for the novelty. And of course, since the 18th it is home to century, where the communist it was then commissioned TV used as a horse- Tower - a great riding route landmark to to Tiergarten, locate yourself the road has with when lost. become a Pretty much gallery for some of Berlin’s deserted during the GDR era, greatest sights. the Spandauer Museum Island Vorstadt has been is a must see, overtaken by with some of squatters, artists the worlds and anyone finest art and sculpture. Whilst with a flair for renovation. Its focal in the area, a quick diversion point lies in Hackeschen Markt and to the governmental quarter of the bustling streets surrounding it, Berlin is defiantly worthwhile. The crammed with busy (and expensive) Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped restaurants and shops. The area to bend of the Spree River, houses the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse several buildings running in an east- and the touristy Oranienburger west direction to symbolically tie the Strasse – formed the heart of Berlin’s two halves of the city together. The pre-war Jewish district. At the end Reichstag, situated in the middle of of Oranienburger Strasse lies the this unison, is a favourite amongst graffiti-covered Tachles, an anarchic visitors, as the glass dome gives 1990s artists’ squat still preserved as spectacular views across the city. such today, providing a good starting point for Berlin’Berlin’ss nightlife. Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander

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Today, the Gate serves as a tourist a symbolic central point of Europe, must-see, with families and with trains coming from Rome and travellers posing for photos in front Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris. of the impressive structure. Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines Berlin Hauptbanhof going through this station and you will get a great tour of the main sights wwwwww.hbf-berlin.de..hbf-berlin.de. Europaplatz 1.1. of Mitte, including the Reichstag, Nicknamed the “glass cathedral” the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you by locals, this central station offers don’t have a need to travel, simply not only an easy route to almost a quick trip here to look around is anywhere in Berlin and Europe, worthwhile as the architecture is but also a master class in glass and remarkable. steel architecture. The Gothic-style construction was built primarily Brandenburg Gate torch-lit marches; and with the wall for the 2006 football World Cup, enclosing the Gate in the Eastern and hosts many shops, eateries and Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den sector in 1961, it soon became a Linden, Bus 100/200. meeting points one would expect in symbol of the city’s division. Nearby such a large station. Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans observation posts became a hot spot and built in 1791, the Brandenburg for visiting politicians, including Designed by two Hamburg-based Gate has become a focal point in Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and Berlin’s turbulent history. Originally, a rare glimpse at life on the other Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s it was recognised as a symbol of side. biggest train hub, boasting a capacity of 300,000 travellers, running on German solidarsolidarity,ity, as it looks out onto Sitting on top of the Gate is the Siegessäule thePrussian impressive military victories., marking With equally historic Quadriga, the horse- stations1,100 trains in Berlin per and day. across Unlike Europe, other drawn chariot that was once snatched its cleanliness and peacefulness are many of Berlin’s main roads leading up by Napoleon and relocated to towards it, the Gate is something dominant, with little to no graffiti or France (only to be returned to its rubbish in sight. almost impossible to miss. original home a few years later). The The site has witnessed many GDR also did its own fiddling with the Since its initial drawing-board stages, important events in Berlin’s history, statue, including the removal of the the station was always planned including being a meeting place for cross and it being turned around to to observe a north-south, east- revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a face the West during the cold-war west axis, cutting through the long favoured rallying point for the Nazis’ era.era. circle line. This axis now serves as

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Neue Wache Teeming with important historical the building isn’t packed with Nikolaiviertel (New Guard House) sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably tourists. (St Nicholas Quarter) fascinating yet sometimes Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New Bombing from the Second World War U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined left the building scarred, and as a den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm. Guard House) is perfect for quiet ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus- result, in need of serious repair. From Entrance Free. contemplation: a momentary repose Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free 1960, the GDR restored the building, amidst a hectic day of sightseeing. Wednesdays. renaming it “Memorial to the Victims The mourning sculpture by Käthe of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the A short walk from bustling Kollwitz stands alone in the centre chamber, an eternal flame burned. Alexanderplatz one finds a quiet of the room, as a powerful symbol of In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the square centred around the the emotional torment that ensued remains of an Unknown Soldier and Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz .. after the Second World War. concentratioconcentrationn camp prisoner. InIn Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel It was the first building designed by 1993, after German reunification, appears to be one of the last the important German architect Karl the hall was declared as the “Central remainders of medieval Berlin, aside Friedrich Schinkel in Berlin (1816- Memorial of the Federal Republic of from the Nikolaikirche, founded in 1818). It notably emphasizes the Germany”. Having been described as 1240, most of the original buildings popular German Neo-Classical style a “monumentally void interior hall”, in this area were either destroyed by of architecture, which swept through thethe Neue Wache is nonetheless bombing or pulled down during the Germany in the 19th century. Until worth a visit for its atmospheric and 1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist the end of the monarchy in 1918, emotional resonance. of irony, many buildings were rebuilt thethe Neue Wache functioned as the in 1987 by the GDR government royal guard house. Since then, this Fernsehturm to look like the originals, using compact, yet simultaneously stately www.berlinerfernsehturm.de. photographs from the 1920s as building has served as a memorial for Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn: reference. victims of war. Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333. For historic interest, there is a series The German architect Heinrich Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am- of placards on various buildings Tessenow first made changes to 12am. Price: €4.50-9.50. in the area giving information on the building in 1930-31, creating a Towering above Berlin, the personalities who lived there or “Memorial for Those Who Fell in the Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as events which took place. In terms of Great War”. He inserted the oculus a beacon for visitors and locals alike museums, there is the Nikolaikirche,, in the centre of the ceiling, through to orientate themselves, since it can the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim- which light filters into the dark be seen from all corners of the city. Palais, together offering a fairly chamber, creating an atmospheric The structure offers 360˚ views of comprehensive portrait of Berlin’s Neueand almost eerie sensation – when Berlin with a rotating café on the history from its foundation to the

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nineteenth century. the cross remained. TheThe Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe This is a neighbourhood that plays www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311. on its medieval heritage as much as Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm, possible, from cafés proclaiming to Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free. have been established in the 13th century, to antiquarian booksellers The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city taking advantage of the archaic and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each atmosphere. However, there is block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The an obvious attempt to cash in on memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to find their own path this – you will find a lot of souvenir through the grid pattern, although there are speciallyspecially marked routes through shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and the memorial for wheelchair users. the restaurants tend to be a little The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial, overpriced. The square also backs gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between onto the river which offers more 1933 and 1945. Photographs, restaurants and a nice spot to eat or personal accounts and biographies rest. emphasise the harsh reality of upper floor, completing one rotation the harassment, expulsion, and every 30 minutes. extermination of entire families. Here you can find information TheThe Fernsehturm is 368m high and that documents the geographic was completed in 1969. The tower spread of genocide as well as being was built with the intention of presented with the number of demonstrating how technologically victims from each occupied country advanced the East was. This symbol further highlighting the extent of of progress became a source of embarrassment for the German these horrific events. There is also a room where visitors can search government. When hit with direct for victims’ names in a database sunlight, the tower creates the that contains more than three reflection of a cross, the same million entries. symbol the government had tried so hard to banish. The West Germans Although admission is free, audio called this “the Pope’s Revenge” guides available for €3. If you visit since all crosses had been removed on a Sunday at 4pm you can take from East German churches. No the guided tour, in English, also at matter what the East Germans did, a cost of €3.

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Hamburger Bahnhof and the strong association Beuys works on display from pop arts front had with some of the art world’s man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’ www.smb.museum/smb/hbf/. most unconventional and reputable (1973). The real gems are found in U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. artists. the quotes scattered around from the Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open: charismatic and controversial Joseph A modest glimpse into the bizarre Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3 Beuys, the clashing placement of and borderline ridiculous nature concession. life-like pieces opposing walls of of contemporary modern art itself, absurdity, and the general conceited An abstract collection of works, the gallery undeniably reeks of nature of many of the passing from German artist and theorist inspiration and creativity that either visitors. Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol, inspires or repels the passing masses. are displayed beneath the roof of Although guaranteed to split the Neue Synagoge this former railway station turned opinions of visitors, the collection is (New Synagogue) contemporary art museum. Open well worth a look if not for ‘what is’

hassince been 1996, in the the surreal making collection since the displayed then ‘why’ it is didisplayed.splayed. Strwww.cjudaicum.de, 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Oranienburger Most visitors pop in for a quick mid 1970’s, and highlights both the Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr. and damaged, this synagogue was limitless boundaries of abstract art glimpse of the numerous original Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the 10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed district police chief of the time, on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays. who forced the arsonists to leave Cupola open to visitors April- claiming it was under protection as September. Price: €1-5. a city landmark. The New Synagogue of Berlin with Although services continued its golden cupola rises high above afterwards until 1940, it was then the center of the city. Though it has taken over and used as a storage faced desecration and destruction, place for uniforms. Consequently in it still remains a city landmark. Built 1943, the synagogue was bombed by in 1866, the synagogue was once the the Allied Forces, severely damaging center of Jewish worship housing it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall over 3000 congregants. was torn down, only the front of thethe The rise of the Nazis, though, building remaining. hindered this community. During the However in 1988, the main dome November 1938 pogroms, known as and the two corner towers were Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where restored to look exactly as they most Jewish sites were vandalized

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did before the destruction. It now Reichstag across the city. offered on Tuesdays (outside of functions as a community center parliamentary sessions), book in The Reichstag was built in the late and contains a permanent exhibit, Platz der Republik 1. S-Bahn: Unter advance. titled “Open ye the Gates”, which den Linden. Tel: +49 3 022 730 027. 19th century as a parliamentary office, but in reality had little purpose features pictures and documents on Mon-Sun 8am-12am. under the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm I. Jewish history, and more specifically One of Berlin’s most striking In 1918 the Weimar Republic was the synagogue’s history, as well as landmarks, the Reichstag, which declared here from a window by showcasing artifacts found during today houses the German parliament, Philip Scheidemann and for the the restoration. The upper floor is has undoubtedly played a pivotal role next 15 years it controlled the first used for temporary exhibits as well in Berlin’s history and is definitely democratic body in Germany. The as ceremonies and lectures. The worth a visit. The original imposing Reichstag fire in 1933 however gave synagogue is still used for services, neoclassical facade is contrasted Hitler the perfect opportunity to though only seating eighty members with a striking glass cupola supported exercise an emergency degree, thus as it is no longer the main synagogue of the Jewish community. by a soaring mirrored column, which effectively allowing him dictatorial offers stunning 360-degree views power over the country. At the end of World War II the BBuchstabenmuseum u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m Reichstag was symbolic of the (Museum of Letters) Allied victory, when Russian soldiers positioned the Soviet flag on the www.buchstabenmuseum.de. roof. The building was then left Leipzigerstrasse 49. U-Bahn: mainly unoccupied until the fall Spittelmarkt. TTel:el: +49 1 774 201 587. of the wall in 1990, when the View by appointment only. government of a reunified Germany If you are interested in letterforms, finally decided to resurrect it as its new parliament. Following extensive Buchstabenmuseum is worth a visit. The museum is made up of two rooms remodeling under plans from British of large-scale type examples, mostly architect Sir Norman Foster, it once interesting signage from buildings. again provides a cornerstone of The space is small, but there is still thethe Regierungsviertel (government plenty to look at. They have a good quarter) in Berlin. variety of different type styles, from Queues are expected, arrive very modern san serifs to black letter. early or late in the day to avoid It is great to see attention brought disappointment. Tours in English to an area of design which is often

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Tacheles from all over the world that head lease has recently expired however, there to work and live. and with the property owner’s bank www.tacheles.de. Oranienburgerstr. seeking administration rights, it is 54-56a. U-Bahn: Oranienburgerstr. TheThe Kunsthaus (art-house) Tacheles more uncertain than ever before as was built at the beginning of the 20th TTel:el: +49 302 826 185. to the future of this unique cultural century as a large enclosed space for site. Problems are also had with the Originally created as a non-profit small businesses, before becoming various bars, also on site, which all organisation, a vision that it still a department store, and has since originally had leases agreed with retains to this day, Tacheles is served many purposes including the Tacheles organisation. Currently currently a key centre housing an SS office. only one bar continues to pay rent for art creation and The building was and this causes a large amount of exhibition near the damaged during the tension. centre of Berlin. Second World War Not to be confused and only occasionally Despite the ongoing legal wrangling with the separate used throughout the and the internal problems it has, collection of bars, Cold War. The section Tacheles still has plans and high commonly referred to that stands today is hopes for the future. These include as Studio 54, that are just a small part of the creation of a foundation to scattered behind and the original building. support non-profit cultural projects; in the lower section the formation of a limited company In 1990, shortly of the building, it to outsource economic activities; after the collapse aims to focus on the the creation of a sculpture park of the wall and two creative processes on the roof and the expansion of months before the behind art and tries brand marketing to gain revenue for building was due to by profitable organisations and to do away with the cultural projects. be demolished, an establishments with a heavily- thatorganisational official museums ties artists’ initiative Tacheles is key to retaining the refined corporate image. Despite hold. Housed in an old group called Tacheles, spirit of cooperation and the ‘art for this though, and the uncertain future department store, the building has a which translates as art’s sake’ attitude brought about ahead, Tacheles is keen to take the strong appeal with graffiti adorning plain or honest in Yiddish, occupied in its formation almost 20 years original aims of the organisation into every visible space, and all sorts of the building. From then on the future ago. Yet whilst this is an admirable the future and create an artistic characters roaming freely within. of the building, and the non-profit position to take, and arguably the legacy for generations to come. As a result of its volatile history and organisation housed within, has been cornerstone that makes Tacheles unique atmosphere it holds a strong far from certain. A lease was agreed such an attraction today, it is also attraction for tourists, especially with the current owners, with a token an aspect that causes it to struggle backpackers, as well as the artists rent of €0.50 paid each month. This in a modern world dominated

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Arts& Cu lture Food& Dr ink

Hackesche Höfe Berlin’s Street Food Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41. S-Bahn: Hackesche Markt. Berlin is no way lacking in the fast-food culture. IInn fact, it may bebe the best The ivy grows up the walls, framing part of Berlin for the wallet-weary backpacker. On any street, travellers the windows and even trying to can find stands selling Döner kebab, China-Box or Currywurst. creep into them. One courtyard has In a country known for its hearty meat and potato dishes, Chinese take- a children’s play area, another has a out may seem an odd choice but the heaping dish of noodles, veggies and small fountain. fried egg is now equally as typical as a rotwurst stand.stand. A newly refurbished complex Berlin loves its simple currywurst dish; a sausage sprinkled with curry of buildings that run from powder and smothered in plenty of ketchup. You can ask to forego the Oranienburgerstrasse and sauce if it’s not to your taste. Rosenthaler as far as Sophienstrasse is what makes up the 20th century Chips are found on many a street corner as well. BesidesBesides the usual dipping Hackesche Höfe (Höfe means yard) sauces of mustard, ketchup or mayo, many stands try to shake it up a complex. little with some unique creations. These could range from mango curry to peanut sauce, jalapeno-cheese or even apple sauce. The best location Originally designed by Kurt Berendt interconnecting courtyards are filled to try out these condiments is Becker’s Fritten, located on Oranienburger and August Endell in 1906, the Höfe Strasse across from Studio 54. was damaged during the war, but with bars, restaurantrestaurants,s, boutiques and has since been restored to a place of even its own theatre. The courtyards Another form of quick and cheap eating happens in thethe numerous Berlin many means. are beautiful and green, transporting bakeries. This is most often a healthier and incredibly satisfying way to you away from the hustle and bustle eat through the day. For only a few dozen cents, most bakeries offer up Although the buildings above are of the city. great fresh bread. Not to be missed are the pumpkin seed rolls. There are offices and apartments, the nine also donuts, danishes and cakes, but the highlight iinn these establishmentsntsestablishme Designer shops sport trendy clothes, quirky ornaments and arty books. are the fresh sandwiches. Diners can shell out no mmoreore than €2 for either The AmpelmaAmpelmann store is hidden in one a slice of baked bread with cold mince, pickles and onions or large of the courtyards where you can buy sandwiches layered with sliced eggs, lettuce and herbed mayo. merchandise with the little green While Berlin can be a little pricy in the way of admission fees and ‘walk’ and red ‘don’t walk’ men. shopping, be assured that you will have no problem eating cheap, though In a city developing so fast, and new it may not always be very healthy. Thankfully, the city provides a great concrete structures appearing daily, setting for exploring on foot, allowing you to lap up these goodies and it’s nice to have a hidden piece of then burn them away. natural beauty in the city.

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Zur Letzten Instanz Theodor Tucher Those looking for something else will find it hard to choose between www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Waisenstrasse 14-16. U-Bahn: Klosestrasse, www.thementeam.de/neu/tucher/. a stylized currywurst plate, gigantic, Alexanderplatz. TTel:el: +49 302 425 528. Mon-Sat: 12p12pm-1am.m-1am. Pariser Platz 6A. S-Bahn: Unter Den fresh salads topped with spiced nuts Linden. Tel: +49 22 489 464. Mon- From the moment you walk through the tiny, unassuming doorway you are and fried pita bread, hearty meat- Sun: 9am-1am. Price: €10-25 immediately greeted by a lavish ceramic throne. Sit at this throne and you’ll and-potato stews or freshly dressed find yourself occupying the same spot as Napoleon did when he frequented This gem could easily be shrugged baguettes, just to name a few. The thethe Zur Letzten Instanz . His bust ever peering over patrons’ shoulders as they off, taken for another overpriced, desserts will also surely tantalize squirm to find a comfortable position in a chair that could have only been posh, tourist trap. However Theodor the diner with plates such as mousse designed to fit the Lilliputian emperor. Tucher, tucked away in the right of rose petals with chocolate hand corner of Pariser medallions and Immaculately fusing history and typical German cuisine, this quaint eatery Platz under the mango salad. There is stands as Berlin’s oldest inn serving the Eastern side of the city since 1621. looming shadow of the even something new The decor is simple and unpretentious, all the while keeping its untouched to discover with their charm immaculately preserved. The atmosphere is pleasant and calm, yet offersBrandenburger so much more Tor, fresh selection of reminiscent of days when the inn housed raucous booboozeze ups. than good, if a little unique drinks such as The food is typical Berlin style: Pickled pigs knucknuckles,kles, bloodwurst, red cabbacabbagege pricey, fare. strawberry punch and and dumplings. But the flagship dish of the inn must certainly be their beautiful red-currant spritzer, The dining area is roast leg of pork. Nestled in a bed of rotweil and au jus, it is almostalmost impossible crisp juices that come quite large, both to keep the meat from falling off the bone, and even harder still to ignore in a jug, rather than a inside and outside the beautifully crunchy and decadent crackling that guards the large bone single glass. and it is possible to bisecting the impossibly tender flesh. A must have for meat lovers. choose a seat with an After a delicious A superbly priced restaurant, the most expensive dish runs at around €16. armrest, looking out meal in this small over the square for an café, the diner can afternoon of drinking head upstairs to the and people watching. literary house, a loft with hardwood The highlight of Theodor Tucher is floors, walls lined with old books and their Lunch-special trio, changing old Victorian style furniture. This daily to fit the mood of the chef. upstairs haven is nearly soundproof, The small plates range from chicken blocking out the clamor of the other and potatoes with mustard sauce to diners below, leaving the guest in a a goat risotto. Included in the special relaxed stupor for however long they price of €13.90, a dessert also comes would like to visit after their meal. at the end of the meal.

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Nightlife Nightlife

mid-evening snacks. If you want aa tracks of the Hackescher Markt low-key alfresco evening, then look S-Bahn, this dimly lit hole in the wall no further. thatis a hotspot will guarantee for colourful an characters interesting Bang Bang and usually entertaining night. www.bangbang-club.de. Neue The dress code varies from drag and Promenade 10. S-Bahn: Hackescher burlesque to teenagers sporting a Markt. Tel: +49 3 060 405 310. Price: casual attire of shorts and T-shirts. €5-10. The music as well is diverse with Her fangs tore into DJs spinning 60s the body of a raw pop hits, indie whole pineapple, tracks, and even the juice causing the heavy riffs of red lipstick to drip Black Sabbath and down her chin Rage Against the and pool onto the Machine. The bar stage. Dressed in unfortunately is burlesque, she not cheap, beer reared her head runs €3 for .33L back and spit the and cocktails are €6-7. Strand Bar Mitte chairs by the river and watch the tropical pulp into world go by, or try your hand at salsa faces of a screaming Berlin’s nightlife www.strandbar.de. Monbijoustraße on the dandancece floor..floor crowd pumping typically begins 1-3. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. fists of devil horns. Mon-Sun 10am-late. Be it day or night, the Strand Bar is Bleeding eardrums pressed against most clubs are notquite in full late, swing in untilfact a delightfully relaxed environment Strand Bar Mitte is well known for speakers as the tongue of this rock well after midnight. So if you decide which is frequented by all ages. goddess slipped pieces of the luscious having started the urban beach bar Watch out for the setting sun tinting to show up at the Bang Bang around fruit between audience members’ 11pm, make sure that you have trend, for which Berlin is now famous. the façade of the Bodemuseum drooling lips. the energy to exercise your dance This unique bar sits alongside the across the river; it is particularly skills and head-banging fury to the River Spree, overlooking Museum beautiful. The fairy lights, urban If you’ve been searching for an early hours of the morning. Visit the Island. Connected to the theatre beach and deck-chairs all add to intense nightlife scene of live music, website to see the event lineup and next door, it is a fantastic place to sit the holiday atmosphere, while the tight DJ mixes, and kisses for sale, and enjoy a cold beer at reasonable pizzeria by the bar makes for great then the hunt ends at the Bang Bang choose the night that best suits your prices. Lounge in the comfy dedeckck Club in Mitte. Under the thunderous interests.

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Prenzlauer Berg Information

Today Prenzlauer Berg is one of the most picturesque areas in Berlin. The area is dominated by wide open boulevards and many of its buildings are now occupied by übercool cafes, shops and restaurants. As a result the area has undergone a process of gentrification since reunification with many of the buildings renovated after a period of neglect under the East German government. Prenzlauer Berg is known for having a high proportion of young families; attracting British and American immigrants, who are drawn by the area’s continuing reputation for art; and for students. Only a few old buildings give a reminder of the area’s past. Created in the latter half of the 19th century under the plans of James Hobrecht, it was initially intended to be a working- class district. After a while the area became known for punks and then, having survived much of the post-war rebuilding, it subsequently became a hotspot for students, intellectuals and artists under ththee GDR. A place for alternative forms of culture was established and as a consequence it was a place where resistance could be found.

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Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kulturbrauerei Jüdischer Friedhof www.kulturbrauerei-berlin. Schönhauser Alle 22-25. U-Bahn: de Schonhauser Allee 36. Senefelder Platz. Tel: 925 08 33. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straβe. Mon-Thu 8am- 4pm, Fri 8am-1pm. TTel:el: +49 3044 35 260. Along a nondescript road lies a Once a Schultheiss brewery, Berlin’s poignant place of remembrance. Kulturbrauerei is now the ultimate The Jüdischer Friedhof is Berlin’s venue for exhibitions, plays, concerts oldest Jewish cemetery and, like and markets. The artistic nerve any cemetery, there is something centre of the creative city includes of a sombre air upon entering. This an eight-screen cinema, a Pool and is perhaps even more significant in Cigar bar and even a cooking school Berlin when considering the context

notfor experimental head to SODA culinary Club for lovers. €4 Salsa Why cemeteriesof history. in Unlike Berlin it other survived Jewish the classes every Thursday and Sunday wrath of the Nazi state. Nevertheless before practicing your moves at the damage was still done in 1988 when evening Salsa party? Or for a unique it was attacked by East German neo- fortnightly shopping experience, Nazis with fallen tombstones providing visit The White Market for locally the evidence. Much remains though The platz also includes a great made clothing and accessories from and the canopy of trees provides a Kollwitzplatz playground, and despite its closed the likes of Barbara Viktor and fitting resting place. Indeed nature is U-Bahn: Senefelder Platz Friederike Porscha. a key theme when visiting, as moss surroundings, it is still possible to hear and ivy are now beginning to wrap Influenced by the designs of Reinhold the bustle of various eateries which LingerLinger,, Kollwitzplatz is great for anyany surround the platz and provide the tombthemselves stones. around The therows weathered of tomb number of activities. Some may be chance for pleasant refreshment. The stones provide a sense of order but inclined to sunbathe, while others platz itself is named after the famous this is broken by the many small may want to practice their table- artist who lived in the area, Katty paths that criss-cross the cemetery tennis skills, or simply relax with Kollwitz, and whose statue watches and provide a more natural feel. As a friends. AlternativelyAlternatively,, once past thethe over you. Designed by Gustav Seitz it consequence small corners can easily trees that encircle the plaz, the is very much in keeping with Kollwitz’ be found, especially at the end of clearing provides a perfect spot for own work. Indeed the presence of a the cemetery, allowing that poignant that reflective moment or a chance work that conveys such sombreness moment. Famous burials Mayerbeer to simply admire the ornate buildings and reflection is a theme that could and artist Max Liebermann. that are a feature of the area. describe the whole platz.

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Arts & Culture Shopping

Who Killed Bambi? www.whokillwww.whokilledbame d b a mb i . o r gg Eberswalder Straße 26, 10437. Tel: +49 4849 4574. Opening hours: Mon- sat 12pm – 8pm Note: this clothes store has nothing to do with Disney. Offering a generous selection of alternative attire for both men and women, Who Killed Bambi is the place to go for fun, rock/punk fashion. Housing a range of street-wear labels from the

tolocally European produced favourite Made in Desigual, Paradise Prenzlauer Berg’s kooky shop is the Volkspark Weinberg cobalt hills amid a dune sea, blue largest of three in Berlin. Browse the pyramids spurting water, and a racks of kitsch, beaded hangers for Weinbergsweg, between Rosenthaler behemoth of a jungle gym, even the that attention-grabbing purchase, Platz and Fehbelliner Str.Str. U-Bahn: most grown-up of people will feel the or lust after the unique Who Killed Rosenthaler Platz. urge to summon their inner child. The Bambi bowling bags. Don’t let finances get in the way of shallow wading pool provides a nice fun! There are many activities in place to cool your feet, or your bum A little something extra ... Berlin that are free of chcharge.arge. NotNot for that matter after receiving slide- least of these are the parks and burns over on the play structures. Photobooths playgrounds scattered about tthehe city. Even if you stop by in the daytime For those who are mature enough to and a younger crowd occupies the Kastanienalle, Eberswalder Straße U2. admit they still enjoy a good tire games equipment, there are still Ever wondered where the old fashioned photo booths which gave you swing or jungle gym, then Volkspark two cafes, the lily pond, and the four different passport photos went? Well it seems they have been all Weinberg will provide an enjoyable rose garden to enjoyenjoy.. Merely sitting scattered around Berlin. Walking along Kanstanienalle or outside Warshaw cost-free evening. During the dayday on a bench listening to the church Strasse s-bhan station, you could easily pass them byby.. But keep your eye this park is dominated by parents bells of the nearby Zionskirche is a keen - for only 2€ fun memoriesmemories can be captured (and can alsalsoo be used and their children, as nightfalls this relaxing experience. So if your wallet to make your friends at home jealous!) place is left empty for the bigger is feeling the burn, don’t be afraid to let the kid within you out!

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Shopping Shopping

Interview with Karin Nieto, those shopping ruts everyone gets beginning: outdoor summer shopping Describe your typical ‘The White Organiser of The White into sometimes. under rows of white canopies. Plus, Market’ customer. Market. Berlin is a creative city, bustling with the market: name suits all products the philosophy are unique of The White Market attracts people talented designers, but shopping from all walks of life who have and hand-made; the exact opposite TTheWhiteMarke h e W h i teMarket.com.t . c o m . can be inconvenient and uninspiring one thing in common: an eye for of what you might find in a black KulturBrauerei, Schönhauser Allee sometimes. Since moving here two fashion. TTouristsourists come in droves market. 36. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Platz. 12pm years ago, we’ve been flying every and Berlin locals are equally excited – 7pm. Log on to the website for season to New York How do you select the designers that by the prospect of a new shopping the next The White or Paris to get our exhibit at The White Market, and experience to discover. You are Market event. fashion fix. In these how many do you choose to show at located at KulturBrauerei in the The White Market is cities, shopping any one event? popular shopping area of Prenzlauer more than just a Berg. How did you decide on the area a new fashion event Each designer must submit images based in the diverse means to an end, in which The White Market is held, shopping area of it’s an experience. themof their based collections, on the following and we criteria: review and how important do you think this We recognized is to the project’s success? Prenzlauer Berg. original design, craftsmanship, and Berlin already had Locals and tourists small production runs. We show Prenzlauer Berg has a very chilled all the elements: alike visit the chic, approximately 40 designers per out atmosphere; it’s trendy and not talented designers, outdoor market for market, and we make sure there is overly-touristy like other districts good quality a taste of original an equal number between clothing in Berlin. The neighbourhood hashas craftsmanship, Berlin craftsmanship and accessory designers. a perfect blend of a young creative endless sources of inspiration, etc. at KulturBrauerei, the city’s cultural set that keeps the area exciting and All we had to do was connect thethe What items can we find on sale at hub. inspiring and young families with elements. Our concept was simple: The White Market and is there an Having hosted only four events a more disposable income keep it bring the best designers under one average price range? Nietoof its speaks kind so to far,us about organiser this unique Karen roof (or umbrella in our case) and The White Market only exhibits prosperous.incredibly charming, The KulturBrauerei and it’s a Berlin isis present their collections in a pretty handmade items from independent landmark. The fact that everyone project and the exciting prospects white package – and voila, the White for The White Market. designers with non mass-produced knows it, means we don’t have to Market shopping experience was collections. In order to remain give directions and the location gave born. When did you first come up with true to the initial concept of the the market a sense of establishment the idea for The White Market and How did you come up with the name White Market, it is exclusively a from the get go. what made you decide to pursue ‘The White Market’? fashion market selling clothing andand Are you a designer yourself, and if so this venture? accessories. The price range is very We chose the name ‘The WhiteMarket’ do you exhibit any of your items at The idea for the White Market was broad starting at ten euros goingup because that’s how we visualized the The White Market? conceived in 2008, during one of to 200 euros.

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Shopping Shopping

integral role in local fashion. Flohmarkt am Mauerpark Berliners take the term ‘eighties or (Flea Market) enineties that stretches throwback’ into toeach a new fibre extrem of its Bernauer Straße 63 – 64. U-Bahn U8 Everything from household goods aesthetic culture from furniture to Bernauer Straße Sunday 9am – 5pm to clothing, records, books and bicycles can be found here. There’s architecture and clothing. Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg may not have endless array of second hand shops undoubtedly a lot of junk, but a good the alternative edge of areas like rummage through the cardboard and various flea markets caters to Friedrichshain or Kreuzberg, but ones every nostalgic whim. The White boxes should yield a worthwhile the now affluent area retains some reward. Prices start off pretty low, Market has been embraced because of its bohemian cool. This makes it though it exclusively presents is new but if not don’t be afraid to barter, the perfect place for secondhand as there are plenty of bargains to be things, it encourages home-grown shoppers who want to snap up individuality and creativity: integral had. Vintage dresses can be as cheap some of the residents’ castoffs. The as three euro, books from about 50 facets of Berlin fashion. massive market on Bernauer Stra ß ßee cents, and bicycles for about 30 to Where do you see The White Market is on every Sunday, and with plenty 50 euro. It gets very busy so be sure five years from now? of great food stalls and bars, it’s to leave plenty of time to make your easy to spend the whole day here. As a destination for trend forecastersforecasters way through the crowds. and shopaholics alike –a Berlin fashion establishment. We have already received international interest in the White Market which would be the natural next step for us to take Yes, I’m an architect and clothing for the market designerdesigner.. I’m launching a lineline of jewellery to sell at the White to grow organically. In addition, the Market – I just need to find time to possibility of a White Market label is make it! also on the cards. The label would present collections of selected What do you think sets Berlin apart market designers. The designers from the rest of the world in terms would change along with the seasons of fashion and style? and the White Market label would Berlin’s unique history plays an serve, like the market, as a spring- board into the global world of fashion.

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Shopping Shopping

exhibition-style store in Prenzlauer and is a perfect spot for a picnic or Supaife Kiosk Berg and browse through the sunbathing in the summer. collection of covers decorating the Raumerstr. 40, 10437 Berlin, Phone: shop’s interior in order to customise Pigasus Poster Gallery 44 67 88 26, Email: kiosk@supalife. your chosen style. From pretty florals, de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun. closed, to iconic local images like the Berlin www.pigasus-gallery.de, Torstrasse U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz TV tower, the range of designs is 62. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. Supalife Kiosk is a must for anyone seemingly endless. Team these with Tel: +49 3 028 493 697. Mon-Sat interested in street art or graphic an additional inset in black or orange 2pm-7pm design. This store sells both books on to accommodate for individual, A gallery that is a little bibitt different, the subjects as well as small-edition practical needs. The cushioned Pigasus offers a broad range of prints and artists books. Silk-screened Bürokrat can be inserted to hold a posters for sale. Among them t-shirts, postcards and stickers round 15” laptop, while the Rabenvater are designs that were originally out the selection. Supalife Kiosk also offers space for baby food, nappies printed for film, theatre, opera and serves as a gallery for art exhibitions, and anything else the little one might exhibitions. There are both vintage with the openings often featuring need. Insets start at €25 for a simple live music. With a diverse collection Tausche and more contemporary posters, separator, with the more expensive and those on show are continually of various kinds of graphic arts, this www.tausche.de Raumersraße 8. laptop compartment costing €55. changing. Prices range from €15, to store is the perfect place to pick up U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Tel: +49 over €200 for rarer pieces. There an affordable work of art. 30 40301770. Opening Hours: Mon- Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz is also a good selection of CDs by Fri 11am – 8pm, Sat 11am – 6pm. U-Bahn U8 Bernauer Straße Sunday Polish, Russian and Ukrainian artists to buy. Tausche is no ordinary bag shop. 9am – 5pm This contemporary store sells Berlin- Arkonaplatz is a smaller market, Go downstairs and there is a small made, multi-functional, multi- but substantial enough changing faceted messenger bags which are towith match. higher Thequality focus goods is onand vintage prices exhibition, focusing on the work unique in their ability to alter both and retro clothes and household of one particular artist or theme. purpose and appearance. Tausche goods, with a particularly impressive A movement known as the Polish bags are available in eight different selection of sunglasses. The market is Poster School emerged in the 50s, sizes (ranging from €45 - €139) and also good for vinyl enthusiasts, with the main protagonist being Henryk come with two exchangeable cover plenty of boxes filled with records. Tomaszewski. Polish poster designs flaps upon purchase. Just unzip There is also a great collection tend to have a handmade feel, even the front and transform the bag’s of interesting old record players. the more modern ones, and often aesthetic in one swift movement Afterwards, you can relax in the contain a political statement. Browse with another cover. Visit the pretty little park next door, which is and enjoy at your own leisure.

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Shopping Shopping

Sentimental Journey HusemannstrHusemannstr.. 5, 10435 Berlin, Phone: 030/44328664, Email: journey@ arcor.de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun. closed, U-Bahn: Eberswalder StrStr.. With the funky sequined dresses hanging outside and a stencil of Elvis above the door, you know you are in for a real vintage treat when you enter SSentimentalentimental Journey. Journey. Inside, clothing, shoes and hats from the early 20th century until the present await.

vintageSentimental shop Journeysshould be, is with everything crowded a racks of dresses, scary mannequin heads with ostentatious hats, and Stiefelkombinat ranging from fetish ware to 60s go-go even a white and black checked boots. There is also a large collection EberswaEberswalderlder Str.Str. 21/22, TTel:el: 51 0505 floor. TToo top it all off, in one room of vintage clothing, mostly from the 12 34, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri. there is a shrine to Elvis, complete 1960s through to the 1980s. Variety and Sat. 10am-12pm, Sun. closed. with a piano and velvet stool, a abounds, with everything from large cut out of The King himself, Stiefelkombinat is overwhelming to chunky knit sweaters to bathing suits and a ceramic band arranged on top say the least. The experience begins and 80s prom dresses. Crammed up of the piano. Many treasures await before even entering the premises, to the rafters, the shop can be a little

hats,discovery cocktail in this dresses, store: collapsibleand even a tophat street,as its contents making spill it hard out onto to miss. the thathard perfect to take find. in fully But and when discover youyou featuring a knitted grand piano made Inside, shag rugs and furry stools do, it is the result of an enjoyable by the ownownerer herself. Although theeth are used in abundance, providing treasure hunt through the fashions of prices may be on the higher end (said a suitably retro decor on which to yesteryearyesteryear.. Next door there is alsoalso hat costing upwards of 100 euro), display the cclothes.lothes. Shoes dominate men’s clothing and shoes, as well as it is still worth a look if just for the the secondhand merchandise. There furniture more likely to be spotted in feeling of nostalgia for a time when is a wide selection of both boots a 70s sci-fi flick. Prices here are notnot you weren’t even around. and heels, which are all helpfully cheap, but they are justified on the organized by size with clearly marked whole by the quality. sections. Various choices abound,

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Food& Dr ink Food& Dr ink

Babel Focacceria Naturale a lunch hotspot for Prenzlauer Berg’s salad and a mount of crispy leaves, discerning residents. peppers, tomato, cucumber and Kastanienalle33, Kastanienalle 4, U-bahn: Eberswalder U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Mon-Sun, open from 12-12. whilesucculent after chicken (perhaps will aarrive little a longer short Straße noon - For a quick pit stop during shopping than you may like). If a salad is not midnight ventures on Kastanienalle, this what you’re after, soups, bagels For a kebab you won’t ciabatta-cum-pizza café is a great and ciabatta sandwiches are also regret the morning alternative from the often meat- available for a more pocket friendly after, Babel is the heavy Kebab and Currywurst stalls price. There are also generous happy place to go. Serving so readily found in Berlin. With hour(s) and limitless wifi. deliciously authentic toppings varying from spinach, ham, meals at the wallet- tuna, mozzarella, tomato and goats W-Imbiss friendly price ofof cheese, and a sizeable slice costing www.w-derimbiss.de Kastanienallee just three Euro, thisthis only 2€, the relaxed café is a perfect 49, M8 M1 M12, Rosenthalerplatz.4302 makes the perfect place for refuelling. What’s more, 0678 noon-midnight. spot to stop off for the juice bar along the counter offers a quick bite between similar variety. Freshly stocked from Best described as an Indian-Italian- bars. Particularly the vibrant fruit and veg shop next Californian fusion restaurant, recommended are door, prices range from a pocket- W-Imbiss lies on the stylish edge of the chicken schwarma friendly two to four euro depending Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. It takes or grilled haloumi. on how much fruit you want thrown its name from the German ‘Imbiss’ Sitting on the terrace in. All in all, the perfect place to take Fellas meaning ‘fast-food’. Its logo isis outside is a good spot a pause and plan your next shopping www.fellas-berlin.de Stargarder the notorious golden arches turned to watch the well-to- venture. Straße U-bahn: Sc Schonhauserhonhauser Allee. upside down hinting that W-Imbiss do hipster inhabitants TTel:46796314;el:46796314; 10 am- 1am. is no ordinary fast food joint. Chef, of the surrounding Tabeyo Gordon W, dishes out everything from area go preening and prancing about Danzinger Straße 14, U-bahn: If a big hearty salad is what you’re naan pizzas to black bean quesadillas, their business. The restaurant itself Eberswalder Straße Tel:304 435 7402 looking forfor,, then head to Fellas. With producing scrumptious, eccentric, is run by a couple of genial Lebanese enough greenery to last you a week gastronomy in minminutes.utes. A tannoy At Tabeyo, you can eat like a prince guys and attracts a healthy mix ofof this dimly lit, wooden furnished system declares your food is ready to on a pauper’s pocket. Offering homesick Arabs, clued-up locals and restaurant-come-bar is a great be collected from the postage stamp freshly made sushi with good quality boozed-up bar hoppers. So revered place for private dinners or long lazy sized kitchen. Choose to take away ingredients at the overtly generous is this place in fact that it has even lunches. Although fairly expensive, or eat outside among large plastic price of two euro for six rolls, it is made local guide Tipp’s list of Top 20 you’re money will defiantly go a orange tables. easy to see why this place has become places to eat in Berlin. long way. Order a Sportsfreund

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Food& Dr ink Food& Dr ink

Hans Wurst Café the delicious food. Fear not if your German translator to decipher the Nocti Vagus German is not yet fluent, the friendly delectable German menu. Doggy www.myspace.com/ wwwwww.noctivagus.com..noctivagus.com. Saarbrücker hanswurstvegancafe. Dunckerstr theystaff will help happily you consultwith translation; an online bags are available as is free WiFi. StrStr.. 36-38. U-Bahn: Senefelder 2a. Tram: M10 Husemannstrasse. to stay for as long as you please with Platz. TeTel:l: +49 3 074 749 123. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Tel. access to free wifi. Juxtaposed to the Prices start from €49 including a 030 41 71 78 22. Mon-Sat: 12pm- antique furniture are the modern light The Bird showshow,, and Mondays are cheaper 12am. Sun: 11am-12am. Prices: €4- fixtures, fresh flowers on every table, with set menus starting from €29. 9, lunch specials from 12-3. wwwwww.thebirdberlin.com..thebirdberlin.com. AmAm as well as the natural food choices. Falkplatz 5, U-bahn: Schonhauser Treat yourself to a high quality This vegan organic café is an All of the dishes contain variations Allee. TTel:el: 510 532 83; Mon-Sat 6 dinner in the dark in the original excellent alternative to those who of tofu, including salads, burgers, pm - midnight, Sun. noon-midnight dunkelrestaurant Nocti Vagus. like unconventional menus. Its quaint sandwiches, and stir fryfry.. There are Prepare to awaken and revitalise atmosphere and relaxing ambience TTwowo words: Meat heaven! VegetariansnsVegetaria the only four senses you have left… are advised to stay away from this makes you feel welcome right from smells of the succulent food passing the start. It is filled with antique rustic, boozy pub/restaurant where by will waft up your nose, noises of sofas and comfy chairs, inviting you even the Ceasar salad has steak in the anonymous patrons and blind it. Serving the best burgers in Berlin, waiters will fill your ears as you Lorbeth Feine Kost devour a freshly ground Iowa steak orientate yourself at your table by pattypatty,, sandwiched between a toasted touch, and finally when your food Pappelle allee 84. U-bahn: English muffin served up with a crisp Eberswalder Straße arrives your taste buds will explode salad and a side of homemade fries. with the culinary delights the chefs Lorberth – Feine Kost specialises in Its witty menu (which includes an have prepared especially for you.In traditional German cuisine with a obituary to a once popular burger no this restaurant you will experience contemporary twist. The café come longer in production) will tempt you what it is like to be blind. You will with a wealth of toppings from blue restaurant provides traditional foods form judgements, based not on including Bratwurst, Spàztle, and cheese to bacon. If burgers don’t appearance but, on how a person Schnitzel, brought into the 21st whet your appetite then try the speaks to you. A trip to the toilet is century when mixed with usual surprisingly cheaper option of steak not so easy when you’re blind and and exciting flavours. Greeted by a also accompanied with salad and you will have to call for an escort mishmash of tables and umbrellas fries. Although cutlery is provided to lead the way. Even pouring for the steak, eating burgers with surrounded by leafy plants, you can various cakes and cookies for dessert. your drinks in the dark may prove your fingers is strongly advised! choose to eat indoors or out. Whether Additionally, the cafe hosts several difficult. Choose to eat with a No need to worry about the mess stopping by for a full-blown dinner or parties a month introducing bands knife and fork, or just get messy though as kitchen roll accompanies just tea and cake, the menu changes from all over the globe. with your hands. Will you even find daily so you will never get bored of the condiments on every table

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Food & Drink Food & Drink

your food and be able to tell what an experience, this restaurant also Zur Rose Erdbeer it is without sight? The challenges offers various shows to accompany Weinbergsweg 26 .U2 Rosa- Max-Beer Straße 56.U2 Rosa- theyou’ll dark experience will open being your blinded mind and by variousyour meal. readers, These singers, shows and include actors Luxembourg Platz, M8 to Rosenthaler Luxembourg PlatPlatzz Open Summer may change your preconceptions of who take to the dark stage for your platz 030-22-30-8802 Open 9am- 2pm – Late daily, Winter 6pm – Late what you thought it was like to have entertainment. The timetable for 1am, dailydaily.. No credit cards. no vision.On these events Sandwiched between a little row Erdbeer’s proximity to the array arrival you will is available on of the many eateries found in of bars at Rosa-Luxembourg Platz be welcomed the website Rosenthaler and Rosenthaler Platz makes into the with dates for Platz, is it the perfect place to start an restaurant bar n o n - G e r m a n this bustling evening. Its reputation for mouth- which is located speaking tourists hangout. Its watering and varied cocktails is well upstairs in the pointed out. rustic style, deserved, and the extensive menu

islight. where Here you Once you finish with antique only presents one problem: which your meal and furnishings drink to choose! Be prepared to decide what are welcomed found in splash out, as cocktail prices begin you would like back into the the back aaround Seven Euro. However, for to eat. Ordering light, prepare and small the delicious drinks and intimate c oco u lul d ndn ’ t’t to be surprised garden tables atmosphere, it is money well spent. be simpler, squeezed in by what you During the week, an eclectic mix of with three the front, thought you ate music is played in the background set menu’s makes a and what you at a fairly low level, offering guests incorporating p l e a s a n tnt thought your the rare chance to have an audible three courses place to sit back and contemplate blind waiter conversation in such an environment. including a looked like. a days sight seeing. The food comes Over the weekend, DJs play sets to get v e g e t a r i a n in generous portions and budget Also make sure guests revved up for the night ahead. option and a friendly prices, where breakfasts you check your The candle-lit tables, pink décor and fourth tailored and lunches range from 3-5€, and shirt for debris; mismatched chairs all add to the surprise menu dinner plates including pastas and you never charm of this quirky bar. Erdbeer is a for those feeling salads from 5-9€. Make sure to know what you low-key and relaxing venue, which also a tad more daring. Once your order check out the “tap your own beer” dropped down there in the dark! serves a wide selection of beers and is placed a waiter will lead you down service, where you can help yourself non-alcoholic refreshments for non- to the basement restaurant where Make a call and reserve your table to your own pints (Aprox.€3 each). cocktail drinkers. Well worth a visit. the excitement begins.If eating in because this place can get busy, Cocktails are also good (and strong), the dark does not sound enough of then prepare for the unexpected. and average around €5.

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Nightlife Nightlife

White TTrashrash Dr Pong in smaller groups, as large swathes of tourists can irritate the loyal www.whitetrashfastfood.com upcoming indie bands to occasional Eberswalder Straße 21 Sun 14:00- Schönhauser Allee 6-7: U-Bahn: Rosa- internationally-known acts. As if all late Eberswalder Straße, U2, M1, sopunters. hold onIt empties if you’re out finding after awhile, it a bit this wasn’t enough, there’s also an Luxemburg Platz Tel: 030-50348668 M10, 12Mon-Sat 20:00-late, overwhelming. Chessboards are also in-house tattoo parlour if you feel Mon-Fri from 12pm, Sat & Sun from available if table tennis isn’t your like permanently marking your body Hidden away on a busy street in 6pm. thing. is the perfect accompaniment to a Prenzlauer Berg, with nothing but Dining at White Trash is a sure-fire dim lighting and occasional cheers to meal. The service has been known to Rosengarten way to induce a sensory overload. be shoddy at times, and explicitly suggest it being open for business, is This converted Chinese a cheap and a great way to spend an wwwwww.rosengarten-berlin.de..rosengarten-berlin.de. Wein- restaurant, replete evening. Grab a beer (2.50€), a bat (a bergsweg 13. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler with gaudy Oriental 5€ deposit is needed) and head to the Platz. Mon -Fri 4pm-12pm, Sat-Sun flourishes and garnished sparsely decorated ,high ceilinged 1pm – 12pm. with bizarre bric-a- room whose focal point is a large ping Rosengarten is an excellent place brac, serves up decent pong table. The rules are simple: to rest your feet with a cool drink American-style dishes every time a new round starts, join after a day’s sightseeing or shop- with incendiary titles the rotating circle of competitors and ping. Beautifully situated by the such as “The Marquee take turns in hitting the ball back to eponymous rose garden in Volk- de Fuck Burger”. each other. If you miss a shot, join spark Weinberg, the atmosphere Wolfing this down the many who simply come along to is exceptionally laid back. Striped whilst being serenaded watch. Hit every shot and you will deckchairs are set out next to the by a thrash metal band find yourself in the five-round-finale small outdoor bar where super in what resembles a where although discreet, the winning friendly staff serve beer, wine, soft schizophrenic bordello title will gain you respect from drinks and cake. A great program of provides a uniquely Berlin’s table- events is on entertaining experience. When tennis mega- rude at others. By all accounts, you’re offer, such as you’ve finished, or given up on, your more likely to hear “Fuck off!” from fans. Rounds outrageously large portion, head can start with film screen- your waiter than “Bon appetit!” ings and live downstairs to dance off the calories as little as 3 However, go in expecting something music. On in the misnomer that is though if easily to as many as a little different from your average Wednesdays offended. The Diamond Lounge, the 30 players, so culinary experience and you’ll be at 7pm there dingy basement club. Here the music be confident pleasantly sated. Perhaps best to are even is loud and the acts vary from local to ensure you steer clear hula-hoop get a swing in. workshops. Best to come

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Accommodation Accommodation

Alkatraz East Seven Hostel on every floor, what more could “Wash your own dishes, or we’ll make a budding traveller ask for. Not to you eat your passport!” – is the note www.alcatraz-backpacker. wwwwww.eastseven.de..eastseven.de. Schwedter de Schonhauser Allee 133a. U2 Straße 7. U-bahn: Senefelder Platz. restaurants,mention being nightlife surrounded and ofby coursecafes, laidbackyou will hostel. find in The the bright kitchen of this Eberswalder Strasse Tel: +49 (0)30 TTel:el: 936 22 240240 lots of shops. A trip to the famous 48496815 Dorm: 17 Mauer Park fleamarket on Sunday is S 40, D 25, T 22 a must. Or relax in the cosy garden S 37, D 50, T 51, Q 78 house/barbeque area among other 4 bedroom dorm 18 Linen: 3 guests. The friendly and welcoming 8 bedroom dorm 16 staff are always on hand 24/7 with Towels: 1euro tips and tricks to help you make thethe Apartments (4 people) 106, (5(5 Visa and Mastercard accepted (small most of your time in the city. The people) 116, (6 people) 126 fee of 1euro per 100euro to cover hostel offers a range of services

Linen: 2 Towels: free on demand costs) lockersincluding: in laundry rooms, service, free luggage free This urban, hip hostel located on Situated just north of Berlin’s storage, free maps and free wi-fi. the busy street of Schönhauser Allee über-hip Mitte district, this small, The East Seven Berlin hostel fosters a stands out from the rest. With its comfortable hostel offers travellers relaxed atmosphere all year round. unique exterior of graffiti, it’s hard a wide range of clean, high quality to walk past without being intrigued affordable accommodation. With orange and blue walls of Lette’m Sleep by what lies within. You can find spacious bathrooms and hot showers Lette’m Sleep fit in nicely with Prenzlauerberg’s all kinds of travellers residing here wwwwww.backpackers.de..backpackers.de. Lettestraße vibrant scene. This relaxed hostel from students, backpackers, walk- 7. U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße. ins and occasionally families. The hosts a mixture of nationalities Tel: +49 (0)30 44733623 Fax: +49 all year round; backpackers from small intimate courtyard is an ideal (0)30 44733625 place to sit back and unwind. TheThe Finland, a family from Spain, an common area with TVTV,, table football, 7 bed dorms 17€, 6 bed dorms 18€, American biker… you’ll find them here. With its no curfew policy books and leaflets galore make sure 5 bed dorms 19€, 4 bed dorms 20€, you will be kept busy. There is a 3 bed dorms 21€ travellers may come and go as they please. The little common room has lobby where computers are located Twin room: 49€ with free internet access (you can everything you could need including also access the internet with your Apartment: 69€/room a night for free internet, tea, coffee, and a own notebook via wi-fi). The self- two people great DVD collection. This hostel has service kitchen/lounge is bright and the vibe of Berlin built in. It’s down- Linen: Included no charge to-earth, nonchalant cool. colourful and has a relaxed vibe. Towels: 70cent

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Potsdamer Platz Information & Tiergarten

Potsdamer Platz is Berlin’s newest Platz turned to rubble, and when quarter. Showcasing architectural the Berlin Wall was erected straight

Centre,gems such the square as the is dramatic dominated Sony by 1961,through all thetransport heart connections of the square were in mainstream commercial success. cut. Potsdamer Platz became a ghost Providing three multiplex cinemas, town. a shopping mall, The Ritz Carlton, Situated close to Potsdamer Platz Europe’s largest casino and a is Berlin’s answer to Hyde Park: multitude of non-descript bars Tiergarten. Originally laid out as a and restaurants, the development hunting ground in the 17th Century, of Potsdamer Platz has not been today Tiergarten is a popular spot without its critics. That being said, for relaxing in the sun after a day the bustling centre continues to of cultural activity. Escape from the Whetherattract tourists it is for and the locals impressive alike. city in the green open space or visit Berlin’s zoo situated on the outskirts. architecture, the selection of museums, events such as the Berlin Film Festival (held at Cinemaxx), or simply as a means to witness the enormous renewal of the square, there is no doubting that this is one of Berlin’s busiest areas. It could be said that Potsdamer Platz is a version of its former self. In the early 20th Century the square was one of Europe’s biggest traffic centres that defined Berlin and it is even said to have housed Europe’s first electric traffic lights. While a replica of the lights can now be seen as soon as you step off the S-Bahn, little else exists that acknowledges the history of the area. During WW2, much of Potsdamer

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Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kulturforum class, with its collection of European Old Master paintings. Joining this building Potsdamer Platz U-Bahn or S-Bahn: U2, S1, S2, S26 Potsdamer Platz (Museumare also the of Decorative Kunstgewerbemuseum Art), the The Kulturforum is a complex of Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints some of Berlin’s main galleries and Drawings), and the Kunstbibliotek and museums. It was planned out (Art Library). The Philharmonie is post World War Two, after several home to the Berlin Philharmonic important cultural institutions Orchestra, and is an astounding were cut off from West Berlin, golden, Expressionist, ship-shaped and build on a site that had been masterpiece of a building designed by cleared for Hilter’s Germania. The Hans Scharoun, and has a reputation Neue Nationalgalerie was built for superb acoustics. Next door, the first in 1968, at a time when the Musikinstrumentenmuseum is a small Nationalgalerie on Museumsinsel museum of musical instruments from was separated by the wall on the the sixteenth century on, with guides Eastern side of the city. It now giving performances on Saturdays at contains an unmissable collection 11am. And if all that wasn’t enough, of 20th century art, even if the the Staatsbibliotek (State Library) is permanent collection often gives also here, another Scharoun building way to (also excellent) temporary (haunted by angels in the classic Berlin- Gemäldergalerie exhibitions. The Gemäldegalerie based film Wings of Desire) and has a Matthäikirchplaz 8, Phone: 266 works housed here, the other half of (Painting Gallery) is also world- great selection of books in English. 2951, Tue.-Sun. 10am-6pm, to 10pm the collection remains in the Bode ThurThur.. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz Museum in Mitte. The museumuseumm itself Bargain time... The Gemäldergalerie, part of the byconsists series of of a large galleries central on eitherhall flanked side. Kulturforum, is impressive to say the Buy a day ticket for any one of the galleries or museumsmuseums at the Advance through history as you move least. This picpictureture gallery houses through the museum, with the newest kultureforum and get free entry into any of the others! This includes European works spanning the 13th the Gemaldegalerie (picture gallery), KunstgewerbemKunstgewerbemuseumuseum (Museum works at the back. Due to ththee sheer through the 18th centuries. Pieces of Applied Arts), Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings), number of works, it would be advadvisableisable by masters such as Jan van Eyck, to spare a couple of hours to see the Neue Nationalgalerie (20th Century Art) & Musikinstrumenten-MuseumMusikinstrumenten-Museum Rogier van der Weyden, Rembrandt, (Musical Instruments Museum). whole collectioncollection.. If you don’t have Vermeer and Dürer are the crown that much time to spare, then choose jewels in an already stunning a couple centuries or artists to see forfor collection. Aside from ththee 1500 a shorter, less intensive visit.

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Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Neue-national Gallerie WWII and is still recognised today. This forms the core of the collection www.neue-nationalgalerie.de. Potsdamer Strasse 50. U-Bahn/S- focuseswhile the on second the early part works of the of collection Abstract Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 30 Expressionism. The Ulla and Heiner 266 424 242. Tue-Wed, Sun 10am- Pietzsch collection began over 40 6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat years ago and comprises of over 180 10am-8pm. Price: €5-10. artistic pieces by some of the world’s Visiting the Neue Nationalgalerie is in most influential artists, such as Max itself not to be missed. Designed by Ernst, Joan Miró and Dorothea Tanning. Mies van der Rohe, the building hosts Walking around this remarkable gallery special temporary exhibitions that are amazing pieces of art that go from can last for a couple of years as well stunning to bizarre, fantastical to as works of classical Modernism and grotesque. What’s more the artists’ history nuts alike, this museum Marlene Dietrich. Accompanying the 1960-70s art work. The permanent surreal and abstract styles are focuses on the last 100 years of permanent exhibition is a temporary exhibition is located in the lower perfectly presented throughout the German film history. A particular “Moments in Time 1989/1990” display..display exhibition, giving a sense of curiosity part of the gallery. emphasis is placed on the golden Following the fall of the Berlin wall and wonder around each corner. The temporary collections focus era, when Berlin came close to and aware that their protest could on representations of Cubism, The exhibition illustrates the matching those of Hollywood. no longer be stopped, Berliners development of abstract expressionism increasingly felt a desire to capture Expressionism, Surrealism and the Upon entering, be sure to grab the and surrealism and it is truly amazing Bauhaus. Currently the Bilderträume free audio guide. Take a wander events on film. Taken by private how each artist individually conveys (Dreams in Pictures) – Die Sammlung through the permanent exhibition. individuals in diverse and personal this style. Forthcoming exhibitions can ways, the presentation sheds some Ulla und Heiner Pietzsch exhibition Images invert and skew and reflect is running up until November 2009. be found on the website. additional light on the most iimportantmportant The Bilderträume is an unmissable as mirrors and irregular walls almost period in post-war German history Museum fur Film und convey a walk within the confines opportunity to view possibly the of the lens of a camera. Black in a colourful and insightful manner. Leaving as much to the imagination as most private collection in Berlin. Fernsehen (Film/TV Museum) and white films are beautifully What makes this exhibition so unique juxtaposed against the modern objectively illustrating the events and is the collection is solely based on www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. emotions felt at the time, the display U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Potsdam Platz. Tel: interior decor and each exhibit is two distinctive styles; Surrealism insightful and to the point. Presented is a rare insight into the events of 1989 and Abstract Expressionism. The art +49 3 024 749 888. Tues-Sun:10am- Berlin from the perspectives of directly 6pm, Thu: 10am-8pm. Price: €6/€4.50 chronologicallychronologically,, classic film fans willwill of Surrealism is a style that was first relish behind-the-scenes glimpses affected individuals set comparatively concession against worldwide news reports issued developed from direct Surrealist of films including “Das Cabinet Des at the same time. influences in New York following A treasure to film enthusiasts and Caligari” (1920) and “Metropolis”

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Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kunst und Trödel Märkte Arkaden am Potsdamer Platz www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de Strasse des 17 Juni. Tel: +49 3 026 Alte Potsdamer Straße 7. U-Bahn: 550 096. S-Bahn: Tiergarten. Sat- Potsdamer Platz. TTel:el: +49 3025 59270. Sun 10am-5pm Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10am–9pm.10am–9pm. The Trödelmarkt and neighbouring For the mainstream shopping Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt experience, head to Arkaden. Situated are bustling, busy Berlin weekend in the heart of the bustling Potsdamer markets that offer an interesting Platz, this three-storey complex and distinctive experience. They epitomises what this oncehistoric boast unique artifacts and clothing site now has to offer. The commercial and there are great bargains to be shopping mall houses European fashion had, especially if you’re ready to favourites such as Mango, H&M and Zoologischer Garten very easy to spend the best part of the haggle. day there, and comfortable footwear Hardenbergplatz 8, U-bahn - is definitely recommended. There are At the Trödelmarkt, amidst the Zoologischer Garten tel. +49 (0)30 plenty of places to get a drink or snack muddle of second-hand and vintage 25401- 0, [email protected] within the park and also there is a large clothing and jewellery, antique in 1844, it is the oldest zoo in restaurant, Schuler’s GastZoonomie, furniture and silverware, old Germany and one of the largest located at the heart of the zoo. paintings, collector’s coins and used zoos in the world, with the widest records and books, there is sure variety of species which doesn’t fail One of the best times of day to see to be something that catches your to impress from the moment you the animals is at feeding time and eye. step through the gates. The park the times are posted on signs at the itself is visually stunning with lush enclosures. Unfortunately there are The Kunst und KunsthandwerkmarktarktKunsthandwerkm Zara as well as Tommy Hilfiger and is located just through the Swarovski for the high-end shoppers. green trees and intermittent water no free maps and information leaflets, Charlottenburg Gate and across While including internationally features. although there is a map in the back of the zoo guide book (Zooführer) which the Landswehrkanal from the renowned stores and commonplace Even if you’re not interested will set you back €4. TTrödelmarkt.rödelmarkt. Here local artists andand establishments like McDonalds and in the surrounding the sheer designers display and sell their work Starbucks, Arkaden does incorporate a range of species won’t leave you If you don’t want to shell out for a including jewellery, wooden toys, moderate selection of German gems. disappointed. With around 14,000 book there are maps located at regular ceramics, paintings and clothing. Take a look in Bree for a selection animals, there is plenty to see and a intervals around the zoo and it is fairly The selection ranges from gaudy to of Berlin-made leather handbags or lot of ground to covercover.. Give yourself easy to navigate or you can download tasteful but all items are certainly try Sergio Engel for locally produced plenty of time for the visit as it is a plan of the zoo from their website. original. jewellery.

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Arts & Culture Food & Drink

English Garden Music played until sunset combined with the beautiful urroundings makes Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/ this place an inevitable stop on a Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price: weekend Tiergarten stroll. €5-15. Fairly priced drinks ranges from €2 Charm and atmosphere surround to €4. Food starts from €4 with their this quaint little beer garden menu (although slightly limited in nestled in the north-west corner of hot foods) provides an extensive ice- the Tiergarten. Seamlessly blending cream and milkshake list. On the in with the surrounding green areas weekends, during jazz concerts the the English Garden remains one English Garden also opens additional of the hidden gems in the massive food stands serving up, Thai, Turkish park. This particular stop can prove and other world cuisines. a bit challenging to nd due to its size and unpretentious demeanour, Cafe an Neuen See however a little navigating and exploring will yield a highly enjoyable Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/ experience. Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price: €5-15. Sitting in the shade of a thatched-roof cottage, it’s not difcult to see why Set in the lovely Tiergarten this beer the beer garden has been granted its garden tops the list. Cold beer, good moniker. Echoing scenes of English food and a magical atmosphere awaits countryside, this establishment your visit. Close to the Zoo, and hidden provides a well needed break from in the trees, you can rent boats and the hustle and bustle of Berlin row around the lake or take over some outside the Tiergarten boundaries. deckchairs on the grass. Look for the English Garden on a Dinner will set you back around 10€. weekday and you could easily miss it. Grab eine Ma ß ß (a pint of beer) and Look for it on a weekend, and aallll you fresh leberkäse (a baked loaf of nely need to do is follow the jazz music. ground corned beef, pork and onions) Every weekend the English Garden with potato salad, snuggle onto one of is host to a slew of jazz ensembles the communal tables – don’t be shy, which draw a large crowd to the and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere otherwise calm watering hole. with some friends.

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Food & Drink

Billy Wilders Let’s be honest... www.billywilders.dewww.billywilders.de Potsdamer Potsdammer Platz is expensive, Straße 2 U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz touristy and lacking in quality TTel:el: 030-26 55 48 60 when it comes to food and Much like its namesake, Billy drink. YYouou would be much Wilder’s offers something a little better hopping on the U -Bahn different from its contemporaries. and going elsewhere. If you Surrounded on all fronts by absolutely must dine here, corporate brands and identikit bars, listed below are a few places this bar is a pocket of character in you could try. If they don’t an otherwise bland area. Presided tempt you numerous generic over by a large portrait of the restaurants and bars can be acclaimed director, responsible for found in the Sony centre. the classic Some Like It Hot, sitting around the curved bar drinking tall drinks whilst admiring the sleek art deco interior is glamorous nostalgia, Weilands Wellfood all the more emphatic in its contrast to the concrete jungle outside its www.weilands-wellfood.de doors. Just a lift ride away from Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 U-Bahn: the Museum of Cinema, there is no Potsdamer Platz Tel: 30 25899717 more fitting way to reflect on the golden age of Hollywood. They say If feeling a bit bloated after too they don’t make like they used to; much beer and bratwurst, head well, in this case they do. Prices are to this wholesome self-service however indicative of the area so buffet. Satisfying the most health best to get there during happy hourhour.. conscious consumers, benefit from salads, stir-fries and whole-wheat pasta dishes. Reasonably priced averaging 6€ for a large salad. Be warned that flavours may differ from what’s advertised. Free WiFi available.

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Freidrichshain Information

An up and coming neighbourhood in East Berlin, Friedrichshain offers

bar,travellers café, a look club, into andBerlin’Berlin’s restaurants vibrant culture. The neighbourhood boasts an extensive nightlife where travellers can bar-hop on Simon-Dach-Strasse, enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the beach bars on the Spree, experience the underground punk scene, or have a sleepless weekend gyrating on a dance floor until Sunday afternoon. Friedrichshain is unmistakeably a neighbourhood of the East with Socialist architecture and its grand boulevard aptly named Karl-Marx- Allee, formerly Stalinallee. The East Side Gallery is the star tourist attraction of this district. It is the longest intact part of the Berlin Wall, with many murals created by known and unknown artists alike. Gentrification is quickly closing in on this eccentric neighbourhood. The O2 World Arena recently opened and there are plans to continue developing and do away with many of the quirks like its famed beach bars, which make this neighbourhood tick. Hopefully, the area will survive this demolition and continue to flourish under Berlin’s counter culture.

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Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

East Side Gallery by Dmitry Vruhel in 1990, which portrays communist leaders Erich www.eastsidegallery.com. Honecker and Leonid Breznev locked Muhlenstrasse. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof/ in a passionate embrace. Another Warschauer Strasse. Free Admission. iconic mural by Bergit Kinder boldly Located in an area where sightseeing illustrates an East German Trabant is all but void this 1.3km long stretch bursting through the Wall in a of the former Berlin Wall is now symbolic representation of a failed home to murals created by 118 escape attempt. A visit to the sight artists around the world. Opening before the final section is repainted as a gallery in 1990 the section is a allows the visitor the form their own celebration of the fall of the wall andand opinion on which best represents a symbol of freedom and expression. freedom and expression. It is also the longest remaining section of this concrete divider left in Berlin. Upon approaching this outdoor gallery the €2.2 million restoration process taking place is evident. Freshly reconditioned murals shine out beside the rawness of original sections scarred by weathering and often less artistic graffiti. The gallery

preparationis now being for renovated the 20th inanniversary stages in of the reunification of Berlin. Controversy surrounds this ‘clean up’ process as only 80% of the original artists were able to be contacted to restore their own pieces. Famous murals which have been replicated without the artists’ permission include “God help me to survive this deadly love”,

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Food& Dr ink Food& Dr ink

Qrazy:Ling’s Vietnamese food is all about fresh Qrazy:Ling’s is actually connected fare. Intimidating in size and lavishly ingredients and fragrant aromas and via an arch to art store Quality doused with tangy feta and balsamic, www.qrazylings.com. Tram: M13 Qrazy:Ling’Qrazy:Ling’ss food certainly embraces Lovers which explains why this the salads are perfect for lunch and Wuhlischstrasse. Tel: +49 3 029 493 this tradition. traditional Vietnamese restaurant not to be missed in the evening is the 157. Mon-Thu 4pm-12am, Fri 4pm- has such a quirky modern feel and a filling spätzle dishes: small potato Whether you go for the traditional late, Sat-Sun 1pm-late. Cost: €5 to relaxed atmosphere to match. dumplings smothered with fresh herbs simple-yet-tasty noodle soup Pho €9.€9. and dotted with mushrooms, carrots or the rice noodles with deliciously Service can be slow with big groups, and chicken. Vegetarian options are The strikingly colourful graffiti façade marinated beef Bun Bo Hue, you will but for Ling’s utterly delectable also available. Whether it’s for a of Qrazy:Ling’s may not scream out be surprised at how much flavour food, it is definitely worth the wait. fueling breakfast, a quick lunch break authentic Vietnamese cuisine, but one mouthful can deliver. The main or a relaxing dinner, Cayetano offers on entrance you’ll find an intricate meals are generously portioned with it all in the way of a smiling staff, hand-made décor and an impressive affordable prices so you won’t go filling food and a soothing setting. menu of mouth-watering delights. home feeling hungry at the slightest. Cayetanom MediterraneMediterraneanan Restaurant If you’re in the area on Sunday, Cayetano also offers an all-you-can- Simon-Dach-Strasse 14. U-Bahn: eat brunch on Sundays from 10am- Frankurter Tor. Tel: +49 3 054 730 3pm. 042. Price: €5-10. Settled in amongst trendy shops, ice-cream parlors and cobblestone pathways, Cayetano is perfectly located for a mid-day sustenance break. A number of outdoor tables provide a cool, shaded atmosphere for eating, drinking and people- watching and the servers are courteous and hospitable. The portions are generous and come with a fresh side salad as well as soft, white bread. The diner can choose between a number of items, ranging from American-style burgers, Italian pasta dishes and typical German

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Food& Dr ink Food& Dr ink

Don Sushi and Cocktail Bar a long day or alternatively the start Cafe Sibylle wait, but it does provide a great view of a long night of exploring the city. of the expansive Karl-Marx Allee. www.don-restaurant.de. U-Bahn: Karl Marx Strasse 72. U-Bahn: This historical street, renamed after Frankfurter Tor or Samariterstrasse. Weberwiese or Strausberger Platz. Stalin was removed from power, was Niederbarnimstrasse 12. Tel: +49 A handy tip: there is only one sushi Mon-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. where East Berliners used to watch 3 021 237 935. Mon-Fri 4pm-12am, chef so it is recommended to go in Price: €0-5. the tanks roll by during the annual Sat-Sun 5pm-12am. Price: €1-10. smaller groups to avoid a long wait, With a unique history spanning military parades. as all orders for the same table arrive Situated on a busy street bursting back to the Stalin-era, Cafe Sibylle, With some coffee, cake, and together. with worldwide cuisines at every originally Milchtrinkhalle, doubles communism, this is an enjoyable way turn, Don is the place to be for as both a cafe, and a communist to learn about an important piece of deliciously fresh sushi and fantastic museum. German history. cocktails. The cafe offers an assortment of Don Sushi offers a daily happy hour freshly baked cakes, ice-cream, of up to 50% off selected dishes sandwiches, as well as a great from 4pm till midnight. With maki’s selection of cocktails, and non- starting from €1.50 to €4 per dish, alcoholic drinks. While waiting for it’s a great way of trying the large your order, you are free to walk range of sushi they have on offer. around, and look at their collection of Eastern Germany-era artifacts. You can even watch the sushi chef at work as he makes your sushi, which Cafe Sibylle offers both indoor adds a personal touch, and you can and outdoor seating. This unusual, be guaranteed that the fish is fresh! half-furnished cafe does a great Although the portions are slightly on job meshing together modern art the small side the reduced price that with its utilitarian past. Behind you pay means you are getting your the brightly colored statues and money’s worth, rather than being paintings, it is still possible to see overcharged for normal prices. the bland colourless walls from its GDR days. Sushi is usually associated with sake and green tea, so it may seem odd With rhythmic jazz music in the that Don Sushi offers a variety of background and their eclectic décor, cocktails alongside its sushi menu. indoors is a great place to sit and Starting from €4 per glass, they are chat, or to get some work done. refreshing little treats at the end of Outdoor seating might require a

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Nightlife Nightlife

Lebowski’s The walls are covered with effigies Cassiopeia of actors Jeff Bridges, John Goodman www.kneipe-lebowski.de. www.cassiopeia-berlin.de. Revaler and Steve Buscemi, portraying their Niederbarnimstrasse 23. U-Bahn: characters in the movie and during Straße 99. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: War- Samaritastrasse. Tel: +49 1 733 themed nights the movie is played shauer Straße. Tel: +49 304 738 594. 561 828. Mon-Sun: 6pm-late.Price: repeatedly on screens throughout the Entry: €4-8. €2-5. bar; walk into the restrooms of this Along Friedrichshain’s infamous An upside down bowling alley peering weird and wonderful bar and you can Simon-Dach-Straße you can find a down on patrons as they happily sip hear The Big Lebowski through the vast array of bars but for something away at their white Russians sets loudspeakers dubbed into German. a bit didifferentfferent head towards Revaler the scene for this Friedrichshain This drinking establishment has Straße to stumble across the under- institution. Lebowski’s, a bar certainly been built by fans of the world that is Cassiopeia. based around the cult movie The movie for fans of the movie. There are two club floors that host a Big Lebowski, attracts a vast array As such, no fan should leave without wide range of musicians and djs from of colourful characters, most of having a White Russian, The Dude’s a local standard right up to interna- which have taken the movie’s main favourite drink. White Russians will tionally renowned acts. Open every character, The Dude, as a style icon, run at €4.90 while draught beer runs night of the week except Mondays donning trench coats, long hair and at under €3. you can enjoy hip-hop, funk, rock, even longer unkempt beards. hardcore, electro, reggae, drum n Lebowski’s manages to avoid the bass and much more but be sure to common corny and trite pitfalls that check on their website to find out other themed bars tend to suffer what’s on. from. Managing to perfectly strike a Set in over 4,000m² of old factory balance between paying tribute to the cult movie while maintaining the halls there is plenty of space to let yourself go and soak up the unique charm and charisma of the Berlin dive experience that this place has to of-of- bar scene, this watering hole serves fer. Once inside the compound there up up heaps of personalpersonality.ity. Wooden is a great feeling of separation from columns and secluded nooks provide the outside world due to the high an intimate and fun atmosphere for factory walls and towering trees but a relaxed drink or an aabsinth-soakedbsinth-soaked you are given an enormous sense of night of craziness. freedom by the sheer vastness of it all.all.

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Nightlife Nightlife

Astro Kptn A. Müller Internationales Berliner mishmash of unique architecture, novelty hats and quirky waitresses Simon-Dach-Strasse 40. S-Bahn/U- www.kptn.de. Simon-Dach-Strasse Bierfestival make this event well worth a visit. Bahn Warshauer Straße. Tel: +49 3 32. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer www.bierfestival-berlin.de. Karl- However be aware of a change in 029 661 615. Straße. Mon-Sun from 6pm.Drinks Marx-Allee. U-Bahn: Franfurter Tor atmosphere after dark as the relaxed €0-4. This sci-fi themed bar is always an or Strausberger Platz. First weekend environment is often disrupted by excellent place to start or finish There is one reason you have of August. Free admittance. those who have had one too many in the night. It’s often guaranteed to to visit this bar – the drinks are On the first weekend of every August the sun. attract a fairly young crowd including cheap, cheap, cheap! Although the Karl-Marx-Allee is transformed into a number of tourists and with the mismatched decor might be as well, what has been dubbed as ‘the intimacy of the place it’s great for it just adds to the atmosphere and longest beer garden in the world’. meeting new people from all walks at €1.50 for half a litre of Sternburg Running from Frankfurter Tor to of life. who’s complaining? Strausberger Platz, the Berlin ‘Beer Hanging from the ceiling are robots It’s not just the beer either, cocktails Mile’ encapsulates over 700,000 and behind the bar is made to look like are mostly available at around €3.50 guests sampling 1800 varieties of the control panel of a space shuttle. and they are not shy of alcoalcoholhol either. beer from around the world. Go through to the back room and Basically your first €10 will get you a The International Beer Festival is they even have the game Asteroids long way. a vibrant blend of entertainment, playing behind glass panels. The only downside is that it can be eating, drinking and a great place Aside from the space adventure the a little cramped and the outside to catch a glimpse of Berliners at drinks are reasonably priced and seating and tables are packed away playplay.. Attracting a mix of young, old, the bar staff are often very friendly. at about 11.30pm. However this tourists and locals alike the crowd There are a wide range of cocktails should not deter, if all the seats are is as diverse as the choice of beers. which are all large and very strong - taken you can stand up and play An assortment of live music keeps highly recommended is the caipirinha table football in the back room. the slow moving crowd entertained for €5. as they amble through. Taster mugs, available on entry for €3.50, are a There is always good music playing convenient way of sampling the vast from electro to punk to reggae and range of beer on offer. on weekends there are live DJ sets. Granted there is no room to dance Also be sure to stop at one of the but foot tapping and moderate hip reasonably priced food stalls for movements are encouraged. a beer-complimenting snack such as currywurst or potato salad. A

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Accommodation Accommodation

Eastern Comfort Hostel dorm style complete with their own Ostel - Das GDR Design metres from the Ostbahnhof station, Boat bathrooms and portholes overlooking Hostel which is just a few stops away from the river. There is also an option for Alexanderplatz and the rest of Mitte. www.eastern- campers, who can set up tents on the www.ostel.eu. Wriezener Karree 5. ** Breakfast €4.50 comfort.com. back of the boat. The floating lounge S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 3 025 ** Bike rental Mühlen Strasse 73-77. S-Bahn/U- on the top deck is a must see. 768 660. ** Bahn/Tram: Warschauer Str. Tel: + Wi-fi * Internet available Prices: 49 3 066 763 806. Reception 8am- Dorm room: €9 12am. * Free wi-fi * Breakfast €4€4 Single room: €33 * Bedding €5/byo Double room: €54 Prices: * No curfew Feeling a bit Ostalgic and want to 1st class cabins: * Bicycle-hire re-live the days of the GDR before €64-78 * Laundry service Second class: 4 bed cabin for €19 isthe an wall excellent fell? Then choice. the Ostel Hostel Dorms: cost €16pp Camping costs €12pp The hostel has embraced the idea of Ostalgie, the feeling of nostalgia for For those looking for a bit of life in the former GDR, which is still adventure on the open seas, or in present in Berliner society today. this case the open Spree, the Eastern Comfort Hostelboat is ideal. Each room had been decorated to emulate the GDR lifestyle, complete Straddling two up-and-coming with typical GDR household items, neighbourhoods, Friedrichshain and such as patterned wallpaper, mod Kreuzberg, the boat is docked in the ideal location. The hostel itself has lamps, and shag carpeting. kept its original design and offers The hostel is not the most social first- and second-class cabins on the hostel since rooms are spread out upper and lower decks of the ship. between a series of apartment buildings, but each room is First class is on the upper deck, and immaculately clean and has its own includes private rooms with their bathroom and a balcony. own bathrooms and views of the East Side Gallery or the Spree River. The staff are very friendly and The lower deck is for aspiring sailors helpful and always willing to answer with a tight budget. The rooms are questions. The hostel is located a fewfew

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Kreuzberg Information

Kreuzberg is Berlin’s bastion of counterculture, famous for its punks, squatters, alternative art scene and May Day riots. The Eastern section, from Kottbusser Tor to the Spree River, is the grittiest, and the place where the squat scene developed during the Cold War. The area remains Berlin’s centre of alternative politics and nightlife, with a profusion of riverside bars and clubs. Oranienstraβe is one of the main streets, and Wiener Straβe, Skalitzer Straβe and Schlesische Straβe are also good for nightlife and cheap eateries. Along with its bohemian residents, Kreuzberg is home to Berlin’s largest Turkish community, with one in three residents of Turkish origin. Immigrant ‘guest workers’ were invited to Berlin after cheap East German labour was made unavailable when the wall went up. It was in Kreuzberg that Turkish-born Mahmut Aygun invented the doner kebab. His restaurant, Hasir, still stands close to Kottbusser Tor. The Mehringdamm, Bergmannstraβe and area teems with kebab shops, and the streets around Viktoriapark are every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish some of the liveliest for shops and market spills out along the river at cafes. The more conventionalconventional tourist the Maybachufer. attractions are also in the West, The area to the West of Kottbusser and include the Jewish Museum and Tor is slightly more upmarket. Checkpoint Charlie.

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Berlinische Galerie Anhalter Bahnhof 100 people at a ttime.ime. Nearly 10,000 appearance. The 19th century,century, thethe (Berlin Gallery) victims were deported by means age of mass industry, cried for a Askanisher Platz 6-7. S-Bahn: of this station to await their fate. greater demand for passenger and Alte Jakobstrasse 124-128. U-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof. Bombing in the Second World War freight traintrains.s. These demandsdemands were Kochstrasse or Bus 129. Tel: 78 90 26 For a fragmentary glimpse of one partially ruined the Bahnhof. After before long answered and in 1875 00. Wed-Mon 10am – 6pm. €0-8. of the greatest structural triumphs falling into decay and disrepair, the architect Franz Schwechten A vivid yellow field of seemingly of Berlin, Anhalter Bahnhof is an it was sadly demolished in 1961, (who also designed Kaiser William jumbled letters initially lures the eyeeye essential place to pay a visit. TTodayoday leaving only its present remnants. Memorial Church) received the task of enlarging ththee station. Considered at the entrance of the Berlinische you are faced only with its imposing First built in 1839, in the relatively a masterpiece of railroad station Galerie: Berlin’s Museum of Modern façade on AskanischeAskanischerr Platz. YYetet it is early days of locomotives, the train construction in its day, Anhalter Art, Photography, and Architecture. the station’s strong visual presence station was modest in size and Inside the gallery almost overflows and its history that should inspire with themes including the you to visit. secessionists, Fluxus, Dada, New Alongside the architectural and Objectivity, Jungen Wilden group, technological grandeur of the Russians in Berlin and the avante station, lies the horrific role that it garde. played in holocaust historyhistory.. In total, Originally a private institution the Bahnhof sent out 116 deportation situated in the Martin-Gropius Bau, convoys, usually consisting of 50 or the gallery relocated to its new location in 2004, designed by Huhn Malvessi, and has flourished into an excellent national gallery with

industrialan international hall holds reputation.many temporary The exhibitions to accompany its permanent one, as well as lectures, archives, a librarlibraryy,, movies and music. First Monday of the month has the cheapest entry at only €2. There is also reduced admission with a ticket from the Jewish Museum on the day of visit and the next two days.

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Bahnhof was the “Gateway to the main exhibition space. people walk though the room, South” for Berliners. shattering the silence. Upon descending the stairs, you are Jüdisches MMuseumuseum presented with a path system of At the top of the staircase (Jewish Museum) connecting axes, symbolising three the permanent exhibition realities in the history of German begins, showcasing 2000 www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstraβe 9 – Jews. The AAxisxis of Emigration detdetailsails years of Jewish history and 14. U-Bahn: Hallesches Hallesches TTor.or. Tel: +49+49 the Jewish Diaspora of the 1930s, culture in Germany. Whilst 3 025 993 300. Mon 10am - 10pm, eventually leading outside to the their struggle for integration Tues-Sun 10am – 8pm. Admission: Garden of Exile. The slanting floors is well-documented, it is their €2.50-€5. and narrowing walls channel the achievements that are the focus visitor along the corridor, until you of the eexhibition.xhibition. The musemuseumum Since its inauguration in 2001, the open the heavy iron door to step uses artwork, photographs, Jüdisches Museum has attracted over outside into the disorientating and letters and biographies of 350,000 visitors. Thousands came confusing maze of concrete pillars. both ordinary Jewish people even before the museum was fully In comparison, The Axis of the and prominent historical open to marvel at Libeskind’s bold Holocaust is a dead end. It exhibits figures, to fully illustrate the and innovative architecture. TheThe personal items of Holocaust victims, impact Jewish people had on museum’s alien appearance demands such as letters and photographs, and society. The central theme ofof attention, and it is worthwhile to terminates at the end of the passage the museum is the enormous take a moment before entering to with the commemorative Holocaust contribution the Jewish stop and appreciate this. TTower.ower. The Axis of Continuityy Continuit population makes to Western The museum’s exterior, an angular connects the Old Building with the culture, and they are presented external structure, resembles a main staircase, which leads up to as a race alive with intellect, thundering lightning bolt, possibly the vast permanent exhibition on creativity, perseverance and representing a deconstructed Star the second floor. strength of faith. of David. Its modern metallic facing Be sure to stop half-way up the main TheThe Jüdisches Museum isis is at odds with the baroque facade staircase and explore Kadishman’s an example of an architect of the Kollegienhaus, once an abstract sculpture, Salechet (Fallen wanting visitors to approach administrative building to the Court Leaves), dedicated to victims of the museum with willingness of Justice in the 18th Century. This war anandd violeviolence.nce. The cavernous to engage with his work and now serves as the entrance to the hall is filled with 10,000 iron faces, create an emotional link Jewish Museum, and connects to the a look of open-mouth terror hacked between people and exhibits. Libeskind building via a black slate into each one. Strewn across the The museum is completely out staircase which leads you to the floor, the faces clank together as of the ordinary, and an utterly

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Alternative Living in the large-scale graffiti art or the Kreuzberg into an important anarchical symbol ‘A’ scrawled on hub of multicultural, artistic Berlin’s alternative scene is vast flags and buildings. and intellectual development. and runs deep within the city’s After the fall of the wall the Although Kreuzberg now resembles districts. From the peculiar cabaret migration of artists to eastern the - graffiti-covered - cloak of to the scene of punks that frequently Berlin allowed Kreuzberg to eastern districts, it was actually doze on the lawn at Warshauer flourish into the vivacious located in West Berlin. Being Strasse, ‘Alternative’ is a strong and district that it is now known to surrounded by the wall on three growing culture here. For many the be.be. attraction of the underground scene sides and a stone’s throw from East is its secretive and elusive nature. Berlin, it was deemed an undesirable Kreuzberg’s pulsating, and The remarkable old squats along the location to live, although very often rather quirky, nightlife river at Köpenickerstrasse prefer cheap. The low costs attracted a means that getting lost is often population of students, immigrants an exciting venture and can torespect reremainmain must tourist be practiced free – utmost at all and artists, subsequently turning be rewarded by a great find. times if a visit is made, after all it Despite this, orientating oneself is somebody’s home - and those who in Berlin can also be quite a are in the know, often like to keep struggle at times and although it top secret. This helps to maintain the prospect of traipsing the the immensely mysterious air to the tourist sites of the city with scene. a large group isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, tours are a great The glowing history of Berlin’s squat way to become familiar with scene and the acquisition of such certain areas. An Alternative buildings often follow a similar Tour is a great introduction to story. The fall of the Berlin Wall saw Berlin’s underground scene as a swarm of people move from east it offers an historical overview to west which left many buildings iinn of the numerous squats and the east uninhabited. These began street graffiti art. There are a to be snapped up either by artists few companies that run them who desired such spaces for their on a daily basis (Alternative work, or by those who disliked the Berlin and New Berlin). capitalist culture of the west. Thus the squatting culture in East Berlin Many squats are now categorised was born. The artistic and political as housing projects as they aspects still remain and may be seen have contractual agreements

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and pay (a very minimal) rent. They run local community projects offering, among other things: Kino - The Alternative Tour cinema screenings; VoVokuku - low priced food; and a range of workshops to www.alternativeberlin.com. Tel: disadvantaged people in Berlin. +49 1 628 198 264. Meets every There are art galleries and poetry day at 11am and 1pm, outside readings in others. Starbucks, under the TV tower at The Raw-Tempel in Friedrichain is Alexanderplatz. a great place to get a feel for the The Alternative Tour was a great community-minded mentality that way to see a whole different runs through side to Berlin. The first thing much of the underground betweento remember tagging is and the art, difference although scene in Berlin. Berlin has a lot of both. The laws There are around here don’t require building owners 60 different to remove graffiti, and as it is projects running such an expensive process, many there ranging just don’t bother. Because of from night this, Berlin’s street art is forever clubs to circus changing. schools. A huge and impressive skate park has been An informative guide takes you built and acts as a centre piece for all around the city, through some the old squat. Residents allow the of Mitte’s back streets, past the public an opportunity to wander Raw Temple in Friedrichshain, through, grab a coffee, take pictures and especially around Kreuzberg. of the graffiti and truly participate in Some artists are well-known, such the projects they run or the parties as El Bacho; and characters such they throw. as Little Lucy. After the tour you will see a whole new Berlin, and So take a stroll or get a bike and constantly be on the lookout for explore the streets of Kreuzberg and particular artists. Friedrichshain to see what you can find.

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Deutsches Technikmuseum railways to filmography..filmography Schwules Museum Formally one of Berlin’s industrial U-Bahn:www.sdtb.de. Möckernbrücke. Trebbiner TTelephone: Strasseelephone: 9. sites dating back to 1874, which is Mehringdammwww.schwulesmuseum.de. 61. U-Bahn: +49 30 90 254 275. Tue-Fri 9am- easily noticeable in the buildings Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 30 6931172. 5.30pm, Sat-Sun 10-18 hours, closed architecture, it has become one of Open 2-6pm Mon, Wed-Thurs. Mon. Price: € €2.50-4.50. Berlin’s most appealing museums. Admission €5, concessions €3. The German Technical Museum The layout comprises of eight The only museum in the world offers a cultural history of different sections, each is astounding dedicated to the homosexual Germany’s industrial technology. and unpredictable. From walking lifestyle, this little museum plays Don’t be fooled by the title because through the textile and paper- a big part in chronicling nearly this museum offers interest in many making machinery visitors come back as 1918. From there you go on two centuries of Gay history and different areas extending from face to face with life-size ships and to the rail sheds, with some of the social change. The museum houses planes, some planes dating as far first trains on showshow.. a remarkable collection of photos, The next building leads you through paintings and other assorted art to photo technology, the science work about Gay life in Germany. centre and the Vintage Car Depot. Tracing the gradual acceptance This is a massive insight into how of the homosexual existence with beneficial the industrial revolution its many trials and tribulations in was to Germany and there are plenty Europe, there is a big focus on Berlin of hands-on activities to take part during the World Wars. The ground in. Why not climb aboard the ships floor allows for temporary exhibits, or step under giant locomotives, presenting the work of famous Gay

orwatch discover an old the fashioned art of brewing? picture filmAnd otherGermans local such Gay asartists. Herbert List and to finish the tour off visitors can Comprehensive and informative walk outside into the Museum Park guides are available in many where there are windmills and the languages to assist in your visit and water tower. the volunteer staff are both helpful There’s something for everyone and, and friendly. in Berlin museum style, there are many visitor activities and guided tours making the visit that much The The Deutsches Technikmuseum. more impressive and extraordinary.

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Exploring an Urban must cross two busy streets and pass bronze nudes reclining in Sculpture Garden under the U-Bahn tracks. the traffic median. Follow The experience of visiting the the concrete footpath U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. across the street toward Menschenlandschaft is punctuated the garden’s centrepiece, Berlin, famously described as ‘poor by urban noise – trains thundering Turkish sculptor Mehmet but sexy,’ is undeniably rich in public above and traffic roaring nearby. Aksoy’s 1987 work art. From the iconic ‘Molecule Man’ But instead of being an unwelcome A A rrbbeeiittssmmiiggrraattiioonn .. sculpture to the provocative work of distraction, this setting actually Emerging from the grass street artists such as enhances the meaning like alabaster totems, Alias and El Bocho, of the work. The Aksoy’s sculpture conveys art is impossible to sculpture garden stylized and sometimes avoid in this city. was commissioned disturbing human forms: Visitors are sure to to address the encounter plenty of immigrant experience dislocated body parts, isolated figures, and impressive work even in Kreuzberg, a huddled masses striving to if they never set foot neighbourhood which ‘escape’ from the marble. in a museum. has absorbed an One of Berlin’s most enormous immigrant Continuing across the compelling examples population, while street toward the river, of public art is the more recently look for several more Menschenlandschaft,, struggling with the works of sculpture a diverse collection growing pains of scattered throughout of sculpture that gentrification. The the park. Perhaps the sprawls from a placement of these most distinctive is Rudolf leafy pocket park art pieces, in the Valenta’s ‘Line Space,’ a near Schlesisches ‘leftover’ space stainless steel structure Tor station toward the River Spree. surrounding a major transit hub, which resembles an Don’t expect to find much respite encourages the viewer to consider enormous bent paper clip. here from the grit and gristle of the extent to which immigrants are At the end of this sculpture Kreuzberg – this sculpture garden integrated into – or isolated from – safari on the south bank of is unabashedly urban. In fact, to the social and economic fabric of the the Spree, sightseers are walk the length of this ‘human city. rewarded with a perfect view of the magnificent landscape,’ which features work by Walking east along Schlesisches Oberbaumbrücke.. seven different sculptors, visitors Strasse, look for two voluptuous

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Shopping Shopping

NGBK adjacent NGBK exhibition space Box Off Berlin awaits. Here, through the medium www.ngbk.de. Oranienstraβe 25. of visual art, questions and issues of www.boxoffberlin.de. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Banhnhof. Tel: social importance are depicted and Zimmerstraβe 11. U-Bahn: +49 306 165 130. Mon-Fri 12pm-7pm, explored. Exhibits change throughout Kochstraβe. TTel:el: +49 (0) 30 44 Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm. the year and are often supplemented 70 15 55. Daily from 10.30am. Wander the streets of Kreuzberg by discussions, lectures and other Sidle away from the tacky and you are likely to stumble across events. tourist shops surrounding many individual art exhibits and Upcoming exhibits in 2009-2010 Checkpoint Charlie and bookstores; visit NGBK and you will include: Shared. Divided. United, discover a refreshingly experience a unique combination which aims to draw comparison different approach to souvenir of both. The NGBK bookstore is between the divisive experiences of shopping. Box Off Berlin offers well-stocked in a number of genres, a variety of quality souvenirs particularly the Arts, with many documentingGermany and Korea; the mythology and Amerikana, of US created by local designers. titles available in English. Berlin society and the response of US artists Think more cutting-edge receives special attention with a to such myths. design, less souvenir shot glass. vast selection of books covering all Treat yourself to a fashionable aspects of the city. The NGBK bookstore alone warrants a visit, but time things correctly Berlin print, a unique tote or The relaxed and open atmosphere and you may be fortunate enough to a glossy hardback on Berlin encourages those browsing to pick inject some art into your shopping street art. a stool and read at leisure. To the trip. Fair trade and rear of the store, free entry to the environmentalism are key concepts, so enjoy a fair trade coffee from the coffee bar as you browse the store and its compact contemporary art gallery. Prices and products are wide ranging and generally reflect the high quality and design of each item. For those on a tight budget, key rings and pens are reasonably priced at under €5. Fair trade, unique, souvenirs from BoxOff

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Food& Dr ink Food& Dr ink

Modern Graphics that’s being served. Hakata sushi restaurant Belegschaft

Oranienstrassewww.modern-graphics.de. 22. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Mustafa’sStaying in isthe certainly constantly worth long the line wait at bahnhofOranienstrasse. or Kottbusser U-Bahn: Tor. Görlitzer Closed Zimmerstraβewww.diebelegschawww.diebelegschaft.de. 23. f U-Bahn: t . d e . Bahnhof. or Kottbusser Tor. Tel: +49 as it serves very Mondays. Price: €0-5. Kochstaβe. Tel: +49 3 066 403 254 6 158 810. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat possibly the best Mon-Fri 7:30am -6pm, Sat 8:30am- This sushi restaurant truly is a must 10am-7pm. kebabs in Berlin. 7pm, Sun: 9:30 – 6:00pm. Price: €3- for any fan of Japanese cuisine. 8.8. This shop is a haven for any fan of The choice at It may not visually stand out in graphic novels, comics or other cult Mustafa’s is very comparison with the various other Amongst the hustle and bustle merchandise. It contains a huge simple: a kebab; more colourful sushi restaurants in surrounding Checkpoint Charlie lies selection of each with a more than dürüm kebab the neighbourhood (and there are a calm oasis iinn Belegschaft. reasonably-sized section dedicated (in a wrap); a several), but what it lacks in visual This “organic quick food” café to novels in the English language. vegetarian or splendour it more than makes up The staff are helpful, knowledgeable a vegetarian for in superb taste. Herein lies this sandwichesfeatures a and range daily specialsof soups, at dürüm. All of the establishment’s crowning glory. and, most importantly, incredibly choices include reasonable prices. Enjoy your meal enthusiastic about the material they deep-fried vegetables, an amazing The orders are taken on notes in the café’s fresh, modern interior sell. selection of salad and best of all you write yourself and are served or while people watching outside. crumbled cheese to top it off. The without dialogue. Indeed, you may meat kebabs include sliced chicken find that Japanese can prove to döner from the large rotating spit. be more effective than German if you are blessed with such language What is perhaps so surprising about skills. The food orders will also take Mustafa’s is that it’s little more a longtime to finally emerge at your Mustafa’Mustafa’ss Gemüse Kebap than a fixed hut on the pavement, table, which can be almost torturous Mehringdamm 32. which can hardly fit the two men as you watch it being meticulously U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. who serve up the food all day long. made only a few feet away. Fear There is no seating and only a large not, however, for this is small price Having a several-metre long queue wooden table to the side where you to pay – along with the pleasingly may be normal for a kebab shop at can stand and eat. This minimalism small bill - for truly authentic and four in the morning on a week night, is all part of Mustafa’s unique charm. delicious sushi in Kreuzberg. in an area located next to a street To top off the effect, Middle Eastern full of pubs and seedy nightclubs, but music blares from the hut all day, so There is a wide range of dishes on when there’s a queue that big the you really feel like you’re getting a offer along with a satisfying number whole day long...one wonders what full Eastern experience. of vegetarian options included in the must be so special about the food fray. Enjoy the outdoor Belegshaft Cafe.

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Curry 36 if you can’t get enough of a fix you Rundum Mehrzweckcafe guarantee you can even buy the sausages to take another trip

U-Bahn:www.curry36.de Mehringdamm. Mehringdamm Tel: +49 302 36. home vacuum-packed. 37.U-Bahn:wwwwww.cafe-rundum.de..cafe-rundum.de. Mockernbruke Stresemanstr or back for more! 51 73 68. Mon- You don’t have to ask the customers Halleshes Tor. S-Bahn: Anhalter On a nice summer Sun 9am-5am. twice if they enjoy it, Bahnhof. Bus M41, M29. Tel: +49 30 day you can bask €0-5. standing shoulder to 53085166. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat- in the sun in the shoulder around tables Sun 10am-8pm. outdoor area A big fat German some wolf their sausages or alternatively sausage with down, while others Hidden amongst towering concrete enjoy your meal curry sprinkled seems to let the taste desolate buildings on this all over, and linger before forking quiet street in Kreuzberg, ketchup on the next piece. Two Rundum Mehrzweckercafe top. One bite is a contemporary, and your mouth willCurrywurst set you withback €4.30 fries minimalistic yet charming will sizzle with or 2 Currywurst with a café serving generously the contrasting bread roll costs €3.20. sized meals that f lfla v o u rur s .s. A boulette (a German burst with flavour and Another bite and specialty of herbed freshness. you’re hooked mince meat, but nicer Highly recommended on Currywurst. than a hamburger) with are the daily specials, The lines move curry costs €1.50. which are generously fast as sausages, portioned for the price, Mountains of pasta at Rundum. fries and drinks with freshly made pasta are dished out with German pestowith parmesan, (fantastic walnuts for vegetarians), and basil abstractindoors whilst canvases observing of nature strange and efficiency. succulent pork and mixed greens or subtle nudity. Service is friendly and A delicacy that other places a bowl of hearty tomato ginger soup the staff helpful, so whether you have tried to re-invent, Curry as just a few tasty examples. want to enquire about a dish or to 36 is a family-owned business get directions to the nearest station There is also a good selection of that began as a food cart they are more than happy to help! baguette fillings and with prices and expanded over 30 years starting from €3.90 you will be As Rundum say themselves this really into a popular place to go for spoilt for choice. The homemade is the place to “eat, drink, chat, Currywurst. The food is fresh, desserts are worth a try, especially relax and enjoy.” the ketchup is homemade, and the blueberry muffin, which will

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Food& Dr ink Nightlife

Max und Moritz to your liking here. Its generous portions, welcoming atmosphere www.maxundmoritzberlin.de. and wonderful food make this Berlin Oranienstraße 162. Tel: +49 3 069 institution a must. The prices may 515 911. Open daily from 6pm. be a little high for the more budget- Price: €10-15. conscious traveller with the more A welcome break from the expensive dishes running up to €14. predominantly Turkish food found in However there are less expensive this part of the city, Max und Moritz meals of offer from around €8.50 provides traditional German cuisine. and the setting and atmosphere is It is famous for cooking up Berliner worth the little extra. dishes in an authentic and relaxing The restaurant can get quite busy at setting. times, a testament to the quality of There is an impressive range of the food, so phone ahead to reserve Badeschiff these satisfying and hearty dishes. a table or go earlier in the evening From the traditional, time-honouretime-honouredd to avoid disappointment or a lengthy www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstraße 4. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. S-Bahn: Berliner Eisbein, a pickled pig foot wait. TTreptowerreptower Park. Bus 265/N65.265/N65. Tel: +49 305 332 030.Open030.Open from 8am. AdmissionAdmission with Sauerkraut and potatoes, to €3. Drinks: €3-10. Kutscher Gulasch, a richly spiced Badeschiff is Berlin’s riverside beach and pool where you can hang out in thethe beef stew served sand; swim; tan; and wind down some lazy summer days. with salad and dumpling Located in Eastern Kreuzberg, it is perhaps the most famous of the area’s river noodles. The venues and also one of the most imaginative. Rather than swimming in the river itself, an option probably both undesirable and dangerous, you can swim leansmenu certainly more and horse-around in a floating pool docked on the river. towards the Badeschiff has a fully stocked bar serving up whatever summer refreshment carnivorous in takes your fancy. Located right next door is a food bar serving up Wursts of nature however various description for when the beers have given yyouou some tipsy munchies. there are also a few vegetarian Badeschiff is a must for any summer Berlin trip. EvenEven if you’re just around for a dishes on offer. long weekends, this a perfect place to hang out after hitting the museums and before hitting the nightlife…that in-between afternoon time when Berliners Whatever your take it easy before the nightlife really gets its pace up. Beware, however, taste, you will spots on this mini piece of Caribbean beach can fill up fast so either get there find something early or go on a weekday to avoid disappointment..disappointment

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Nightlife Nightlife

Kiki Blofeld “boathouse” as it is known, which SchwuZ Parties rotate so that they become consists of a platform raised above monthly events for the clubbing www.kikiblofeld.de. Köpenicker the river on stilts. The story of this www.schwuz.de. Mehringdamm 61. calendar: nights include L-Tunes, a Straße 48. U- Bahn: Heinrich-Heine. underground den is quite fascinating U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 night for the ladies; Madonnamania, S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 1 737 - it was where the East German police 30 6299088. Fri, Sat 11pm-late. €7 where the name says it all; and listen 828 286. docked their boats when travelling entryentry,, €5 before midnight. to disco hits mixed with a retro vibe Kiki Blofeld, daughter and heiress of across the river to the West. The Mix it up, mingle with the crowd and at Bump! Check their website for Ernst Stavro Blofeld, the Persian cat- platform is a U-shape and the boats dance the night away at SchwuZ. more events set to make your body stroking evil villain and arch-nemesis would drive into the middle to dock. This club is a one-stop nightlife rock. Instead of GDR of James Bond, hotspot which A good police boats, these is the patron of welcomes all, night out is days a floating the garden club located within P o p k i c k e r , named in her inflatable octopus thethe Schwulen honour. So the decorates the Zentrum (Gay ofwhere pop a andmix water. story goes of this Centre) in sport – fussball bank-side bar and Downstairs has a Kreuzberg. Enter and pingpong nightclub located fully stocked bar via Café Melitta especially – on the Spree as well, serving Sundstrom, the are thrown River. beers for around destination to in for good chill out with Covered in sand €3. The music is measure. The pre-drinks and and with plenty techno/house, and crowd spices chat in-between of places to hang in true Berlin style up their throwing shapes out, this Kikis the club stays open trendy dress on the dance enoughreally is spacebig, with to oninto weekends. the next day floor. sportscode with theme a including football shirts and vest fit a lot of mini- The clientele of With three DJ rooms this venue tops. The music in the main DJ room beach parties. Scattered across the Kiki Blofeld is very local - few tourists provides clubbers with choice and has a familiar feel with the beats of outside area are pool- and ping-pong know of it and it isn’t included change without having to venture commercial and global pop vibrating tables as well as an area for making in many guide books. The vibe is beyond its very own walls. The their rhythms through your body andand bonfires. Next to the upstairs bar is certainly that of the well-kept secret variety extends to an eclectic range soul. a raised lounging area complete with - a hidden paradise complete with an of themed dance parties hosted beach chairs. underground lair with sinister past - throughout the month, ranging Make a calendar date and mix it up at from punk to pop, and embracing The best part about this place is Ernst Blofeld himself would certainly SchwuZ, you won’t be disappointed. everything in-between. the downstairs dance floor, the approve. Drinks start from €2.80 for a beer.

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Accommodation Accommodation

BaxPax Kreuzberg a different culture theme giving There are many communal areas that added sense of a lively fun throughout as well as the bar and www.baxpax-kreuzberg.de. atmosphere. There are two huge beer garden. There is a relaxing, Skalitzer Strasse 104. U-Bahn: common areas, shared/private quiet atmosphere and yet it is Gölitzer Bahnhof. TTel:el: +49 3 069 518518 bathrooms and kitchen facilities close to Kreuzberg’s popular tourist 322. with a sun terrace. attractionattractionss and nightlife. Prices: The hostel is located on the main This hostel has all the essentials Dorm Rooms: €12. street Skalitzer Strasse, where there for students and backpackers, from Double Room with ensuite: €25 are plenty of shops, bars, cafes and free guided city tours to the pool If you like places with character restaurants to suit all tastes. It is table, TV/DVD and tabletop soccer. then you’ll love this hostel. BaxPax also close to Warschauer Strasse, The location is walking distance Kreuzberg has a sociable atmosphere Oranienburger Strasse and many to some of Berlin’s major tourist

receptionwith a bar/cafealong with area lots of close tourist to Museummonuments and Checkpoint such as the Charlie. Jüdisches andsights, Checkpoint such as Brandenburger Charlie, as well Tor as cafes, bars, restaurants and the information and advice including · Lockers and safe available local supermarket..supermarket previous guests views, suggestions · Internet access and advice on the ‘word of mouth’ · Breakfast buffet for €5.20 The friendly staff are enthusiastic board. · Bike hirehire to help out with any questions or The whole hostel is very colourful queries you have on what to do (and and all the dorms are large, fully- not to do) in Berlin plus heaps of furnished and are decorated with 3 Little Pigs Hostel tourist leaflets, maps, and popular places on hand at reception. www.three-little-pigs.de. bad wolf. This hostel, also made Stresemannstrasse 66. S-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof. TTel:el: +49 3032 662 of brick, acts as a sanctuary for · Bed Internet linen: access €2.50 obligatory travellers everywhere. 955. 24-hour reception. · Kitchen The 3 Little Pigs is a characteristic · Parking Dorms: (low/high season prices) art deco building, built in 1910, with · Bike rental, €12 per dayday 8 bed: €13/15 lots of old-fashioned features set · Breakfast, €5 all you can eateat 6 bed: €14/16 in the heart of Kreuzberg - one of Private double room: €31/32 Meininger Hostel Berlin Berlin’Berlin’ss most popular social districts. Hallesches Ufer Everyone knows the story of the The hostel is clean, bright, colourful Three Little Pigs – how the brick www.meininger-hostels.com. and tidy throughout and is in great house protected them from the big Hallesches Ufer 30.U-Bahn: Cosy and colourful in BaxPax Kreuzberg. condition for the age of the building.

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Accommodation Accommodation

Hallesches Tor or Möckernbrücke. separated from upstairs, which has • Breakfast Buffet €4€4 Located in one of the Turkish TTel:el: +49 3 066 636 100. a more chilled atmosphere. LocateddLocate communities in Berlin, this hostel is Prices: on the top floor is a large breakfast Riverside Lodge in a perfect place for those wanting room and outside balcony terrace to stay elsewhere from the city Dorm Rooms from 14€ to 25€ www.riverside-lodwww.riverside-lodge.de.g e . d e . area where you can see a fantastic centre and enjoy the cultural Berlin Multi-bed room (triple, Hobrechtstrasse 43. U-Bahn: Turkish atmosphere. twin, single) from 26€ Sönleinstrasse. Tel: +49 3 069 515 · · Internet €2 for the dayday to 60€. 510. · · Breakfast for € 4.00. This newly refurbished Prices: · Complimentary tea and coffee hostel is perfect for Dorm rooms €21. are available at all times. students who love Double rooms €26. to party! Meininger This little charming hostel is perfect Hostels have two for those who want a place to chill hostels in Berlin plus from the busy atmosphere. Travellers more around Germany are close to the action and can get and London. One good a good night’s sleep. The hostel, thing about chain although small, is modern, bright and hostels is they tend tidy with plenty of space, even with to meet a certain the giant economy-sized lockers and living standard and the funky canoe in the large dorm. this particular hostel This hostel consists of one four-bed certainly meets that. dorm, one six-bed dorm and one The hostel has recently been view of the Kreuzberg area. double room in the hostel plus three refurbished complete with clothes double rooms next door, which are storage space, TV, bathroom, linen restaurantsThe hostel and is for close those to on cafes a budget and apartment style flats. and towels. There are more than 300 €4 Pizza, located round the corner of beds and all rooms are cleaned daily. The hostel has all the basics with a the hostel, is highly recommended. Female only rooms are available for kitchen, two bathrooms and it’s near What’s more the hostel offers free the same charge as a standard room. to cafes, restaurants, shops and the walking tours and is close to the Sony huge Turkish market on Maybachufer Located on the ground floor is the Centre, Deutches Technik Museum Straβe every Tuesday and Friday. newly refurbished bar complete with and Topography of Terrors. The markets are definitely worth a pool table, comfy couches, TV and • Laundry €5€5 visit and there are so many different daily discount bar offers. Although • Luggage Storage stalls from traditional Turkish meals downstairs is the party area it is • Internet and free WIFI and sweets to clothes and jewellery.

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Charlottenburg Information

During the glory days of the GDR, is another worthwhile site to check Charlottenburg was a pocket of West out in Charlottenburg. Heavily Berlin where culture flourished. bombed during World War II, the Surrounded by the Berlin Wall, the church was left as it was and is now area was a protected sanctuary an antiwar memorial and a constant with exceptional nightlife, cafés, reminder of the destruction of the cinemas and a strong community of warwar.. The church was constructed in artists, actors, and writers. 1895 for Kaiser Wilhelm I, and now tourists can visit the church and view After the fall of the wall, these a collection of photographs and an creative communities moved East explanation of the church’s history. to blossoming Prenzlauerburg and Mitte and as a result Charlottenburg Many museums are also located in

maintainslost its itsedge. former Now glamour this witharea fürCharlottenburg, Fotografie that such chronicles as the Museum the life Kufürstendamm, locally known as and work of Berlin’s internationally Ku’damm, the Champs-Elysées of acclaimed photographer, Helmut the East, lined with ritzy department Newton, and the Erotik Museum, stores and boutiques for the wealthy for those looking for something a to splash out whilst on holiday in little different when it comes to Berlin. Charlottenburg is ideal for museums. those looking for a bit of quiet in the constant hustle and bustle of a city that never seems to sleep.

Charlottenburg’s main attraction is Schloss Charlottenburg, a baroque palace located 3km north of Zoo Station. The palace was modelled after Versailles and its former residents include King Friedrich I, and Friedrich the Great. Its gardens are perfect for wandering on a sunny day. Kaiser - Wilhelm - Gedächtniskirche

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commissioned separate exhibitions, each priced was largely impossible. These rooms in 1699 by the separately (though a Day Ticket can now contain paintings and furniture Electress of be bought which incorporates all giving a representation of the Brandenburg three). thoughts and morals of the time. Sophie Charlotte. The central exhibition here is the The personalities of the two Queens After her death, Old Palace – Sophie Charlotte’s are presented through these rooms in the building was original building and Friedrich’s a very lively way, helped by the use completed and extension. Downstairs, the rooms of an audioguide, which is included in extended under are in the style of Sophie Charlotte’s the entrance price. A must-see is the the orders of her day while the upper floor is kept New Wing, which houses the State husband, then (as much as possible) to how Queen Apartments of Kings Friedrich the King of Prussia, Elizabeth would have known it. Great and Friedrich Wilhelm II. Don’t Friedrich I, and Many of the upstairs rooms were forget to enjoy the nature - take a re-named in damaged by bombing meaning that stroll around the beautiful gardens her honour. This reconstruction in their original form and lakes, or even take a picnic. relatively small Schloss Charlottenburg palace in a minor town outside Berlin Spandauer Damm 10-22. S-Bahn: became the summer residence and Westend/Jungfernheide. U-Bahn: stately home of choice of many of the Mierendorffplatz/Richard-Wagner- later Hohenzollerns, and still bears Platz. Tel: +49 30 320 911. Thur-Sun the marks of many of their lives and 10am-6pm. Day Ticket: €10-14. personalities. Schloss Charlottenburg certainly has This historic site is of great importance for those interested in the growth asomething healthy dose for everyone.of history for There those is of one of Europe’s greatest royal primarily interested in the whys and houses. There is special emphasis wherefores of this beautiful building, here on the women in this dynasty, for art and architecture buffs there particularly Sophie Charlotte herself is a huge amount to see in this and Queen Elizabeth, wife of King Baroque masterpiece, while there is Friedrich Wilhelm IV, both of whom lots of human interest if you just like spent much time and energy on this a good story. building. Schloss Charlottenburg, originally For the modern visitorvisitor,, there is much called Lietzenburg, was first to see. The site itself is in fact three

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Museum für Fotografie which noticeably influenced society’s the 10th anniversary of the book’s Gedenkstätte Plötzensee (Museum of Photography) perspective on fashion, women and publication. Amongst the collection portraiture. are rare portraits of the likes of David www.gedenkstaette-ploetzensee. www.helmutnewton.com. U-Bahn: Bowie, Grace Jones, Rainer Werner de. Hüttigpfad 1. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Following Newton’s fatal car crash in Zoologicher Garten. Tel +49 30 266 Fassbinder and Andy Warhol. Beusselstasse, Bus 123. Mon-Sun 3666. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thur October 2004, shortly after donating 9am-5pm. Price: Free. 10am-10pm. Price: €4-8. Free: more than 1000 of his works to the Complimenting Newton’s works is an The Gedankstätte Plötzensee is Thursdays after 6pm. museum, the public exhibition serves exhibition entitled “Three Boys from to be a mesh of both bereavement Pasadena”. Mark Arbeit, George Holz a small memorial in the north of One of history’s most daring and and celebration; for the art and man and Just Loomis, three friends of Charlottenburg, dedicated to the notorious photographers, Berlin- who was Helmut Newton. Newton’s which he worked alongside memory of those executed under the born Helmut Newton had a distinct and mentored, have 25 pieces of Nazi rule. It stands on the site of a On the ground floor of the museum risqué style; capturing the dramatic their collections on displaydisplay.. Selected prison, first built in 1868 to house is a rare showcase called “Private and often dangerous side of beauty. by June Newton, Helmut Newton’s convicts with short-term sentences. Over 1,000 works from Newton Property” which delves into the wife, the cinematic and raw style It was also where some of the most life of the photographer himself. A are permanently on display at of the collections share similar famous opponents of Nazi Germany, replication of his Monte Carlo study, the Museum of Photography. The undertones to a lot of Newton’s including Klaus von Stauffenberg, family photos, and a collection of collection of black and white photos, work. were imprisoned and executed. For often focusing on nude women, letters between Newton and other fans of the film Valkyrie this site, explores the politically incorrect prominent members of society, Together the collaborated display which was not allowed to be used sexual nature of the human species including Margaret Thatcher, pay makes for an impressive journey as a location due to the controversy homage to Newton’s work and life. into the eyes of one of the world’s surrounding Tom Cruise’s religion, The eerie collection is a perfect most controversial and leading may be of special interest. introduction to the Museum itself as photographers. Although often the display reveals a prudent quality quite confronting and uncensored, The memorial itself is embodied by a to Newton’s extensive catalogue of the photographs invite the viewer shrine. In the main room, which still often misinterpreted pieces. to push past the nude subjects and contains the hooks in the wall from explore the world around the girl where prisoners were hanged, several Situated on the first floor and probably and the vision of Newton himself. wreaths and flags mark the place the most highly regarded display The extensive collection tastefully where many atrocities occurred. In is the temporary exhibit “Sumo”, captures the triumph of desire and addition to this chilling reminder of which displays 394 black and white the failure of reality rarely seen in the reality of the prison’s history, photographs. Originally the contents such an audacious and mischievous there is a small but informative of a giant book, once limited to manner, which is well worth a visit exhibition on the history of the prison the coffee tables of a well-heeled for those that search beyond a bare and the lives of its more prominent few, the exhibit commemorates glance. victims. However for a site with

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such an important history, there is Story of Berlin used to establish the presence of together in this way indicates how relatively little else to see. Kristallnacht and, almost before much this city has led the world in so In a Berlin which is full of memorial Kurfürstendammwww.story-of-berlin.de. 207-208. U-Bahn: realising, the visitor walks over many areas, yet somehow it remains real book spines encased within the utterly unique. after memorial to the victims of Uhlandstrasse. Tel: +49 3 088 720 floorfloor,, symbolising the infamous Book Nazi and Soviet Germany, this small 100. Price: €8-10. Burnings in Bebelplatz. The piles exhibition may seem like one too As the Story of Berlin goes, “The only of rubble to evoke post-war Berlin many for the average visitor. The may seem a little heavy-handed distance from the centre of Berlin tradition this city will accept is that and melodramatic to some, but the may also be troublesome – the it does not have a tradition”. This decorated living rooms of both East Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is located statement is no better proven than and West offer interesting points of at least a kilometre from the nearest in this eclectic Berlin sensation. comparison. station, though there is a bus that Situated on classy Kufürstendamm, stops about a 5 minute walk away, inside a shopping centre, the Story of Be warned that there is a lot to read and you need to walk through an Berlin museum makes no pretence of and take in at once. In addition to industrial estate to get there. being overly-scholarly or intellectual. this no-senses-bared journey through time, there is also the chance to tour In many ways though, this remoteness Instead the museum is very accessible one of West Berlin’s largest nuclear adds to the atmosphere perhaps to all. bunkers. Built to hold a capacity of helping one to understand the Without assuming that the visitor has over 3,200 people this bunker was isolation of the condemned prisoners. any prior knowledge, the exhibition never used for its intended purpose, Although this memorial is small, leads through a quick-fire tour of but the site remains almost exactly it is very well laid out and gives a Berlin’s history, from 1237-1930, as it was in the 1970s. Informed disquieting exposition of the terrible establishing the scene for later, much tour guides give a fascinating insight events that took place here. more familiar, events. into how life in the bunker might A lot of different media are used to have been like had the bomb ever create the feeling of moving through dropped. time; sound effects, videos and life- The sheer variety of topics covered size models in particular help the by this large museum would almost visitor to feel that they are actually defy belief, if they were not all there. Moving forward into the Nazi linked by their relationship to the period (descending down an eerily lit city of Berlin. narrow staircase), these effects only become more prominent. This only goes to show how much depth and diversity Berlin itself The sound of breaking glass is has. Seeing all of Berlin’s history 33 133 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 134

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Käthe Kollwitz Museum Liebknecht (1919), Brot! (1924), and the Krieg series of woodcuts

Fasanenstaβewww.kaethe-kollwitz.de. 24. U-Bahn: (1922/23). Kurfürstendamm. Tel: +49 308 825 Her work is highly politicised and 210. Mon-Sun 11am-6pm. Price: emotive. It is often bleak, executed €2.50-5. almost entirely in monochrome, and displaying an empathy with Käthe Kollwitz was a German artist the oppressed. The Käthe Kollwitz working in the first half of the 20th museum houses a century. Unusually for collection of drawings, a female artist, she prints and sculptures was highly successful over four floors, and you and influential in her can see more sculptures own lifetime. She in the garden. The was also a dedicated museum also contains socialist and, having a collection of self- lost both her son portraits from 1888 – and her grandson in 1938. World War One and Two respectively, was Kollwitz’ significance defiantly anti-war..anti-war can be seen all over Berlin: the central These convictions square in Prenzlauer made her a target Berg, where the for the Nazis, who artist lived, is named removed her from a Kollwitzplatz and prestigious position at contains a sculpture of her. An the Academy of Art and banned all enlarged copy of one of her most exhibitions of her work from 1937 famous works, the sculpture Mother on. Kollwitz died in 1945, shortly with Dead Son, is the focal point of before the end of the war. the war memorial Neue Wache onon Pacifist, socialist and maternal Unter den Linden. Her importance themes are a recurrent feature of to the culture of the city is clear, her work, exemplified by famous making a trip to this small museum prints such as the Memorial to Karl a worthwhile addition to any visitor’s 135 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 136

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Olympiastadion Once inside the home support is immediately recognisable, mainly History... Olympische Platz 3.3. dominating one area of the ground The Olympiastadion is probably one of the most historic sites in U-Bahn: Olympiastadion. S-Bahn: with customary continental flag world sport. The original stadium, the Deutsches Stadion designed by Olympiastadion. Tel: +49 3 030 688 waving and group jumping. 100. Closed during sporting events. Otto March, was built in time for the 1916 Summer Olympics. Sunk Price: €3-4, Family: €8. The atmosphere is good especially underground it became the largest sport arena in the world at the time when the home fans decide to get but was unable to host the games due to World War I. The IOC decided Going to watch Hertha Berlin play the drums and chants going. However to give Berlin the rights again in 1936 and Hitler took the opportunity to at the Olympiastadion is more than this can be slightly lost, due to its build a new showpiece stadium to replace the old one. large capacity, as the stadium only just seeing a football match. The The games were most famous for sprinter Jesse Owen’s four gold medals sells out when the big teams arrive iconic stadium provides a great site which were symbolic in highlighting the ridiculous nature of Nazi race in town. for football, and entry through the policypolicy.. In surviving World War II, it remains a prime exaexamplemple of the neo- Olympic rings gives a sense of how This though does have the advantage classical architecture that was so popular with the regime. Features history and sport have come to mix. of tickets often being readily available such as the Marthantor and Glockenturm remain iconic. After the war the stadium was used by the British and Americans. From 1963 Hertha Berlin played there and in 1974 it played host to ssomeome World Cup games. After some debate the stadium underwent renovation work with a state- of-the-art roof being the principle addition. It has since hosted World Cup matches in 2006, including the final; and the 2009 World Athletics Championships.

with a decent price range to choose from, although it is probably best to aim for a mid-range ticket. The team itself is a founding member of the German FA and their performances have picked up in recent seasons but they still have not reached the illustrious heights of other German teams such as Bayern Munich. 137 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 138

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Aroma Lon-Men’Lon-Men’ss Noodle House Der Kuchenladen

wwwwww.cafe-aroma.de.U-Bahn:.cafe-aroma.de. Wilmersdorf Kantstrasse Strasse. Tel: 35.35. Strasse.Kantstrasse TTel:el: 33.+49 U-Bahn 3 031 519 Wilmersdorf 678. Mon- Kantstrassewww.der-kuchenladwww.der-kuchenladen.de. 138. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorfe n . d e . +49 3 037 591 628. Mon-Sun 12pm- Sun 10am-9pm. Price: €4-8. Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 018 424. Tue- 3am. Price: €3-15. Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-5pm. Lon-Men’s Noodle House is a family- Price: €2-5. On the corner of Kantstrasse run Taiwanese eatery that serves and Wielandstrasse sits Aroma, a some of Taiwan’s most famous noodle Nestled along Kantstrasse is a quaint Cantonese style restaurant, and one dishes. This small, simplistically cake shop called Der Kuchenladen of the bigger and older establishments decorated restaurant resembles (literally(literally,, the cakeshop). ThThee brightly in Berlin’s modest Chinatown. Aroma one you would find on the streets of coloured wallpaper catches the is one of the few places in Berlin that Taiwan. Not to be confused by the eyes and draws you in, as do the serves authentic dim-sum. name, you can order dishes aside chandeliers adorned with crystal Though it can get quite busy around from noodles. ornaments. Upon walking in, you are immediately greeted by the aroma of noon, and on weekends, it is a nice Although they offer a number of baking chocolate. and relaxing place to have a late rice entrees, spring rolls, and other lunch. The German/Chinese speaking appetizers, the dish to try is the Der Kuchenladen is the epitome of a staff are quick to serve and though beef noodle soup. This comes with storybook sweets shop. The room is the menus are scarce of any English, a bowl of handmade, freshly drawn lined with a myriad of freshly baked the colourful pictures make it much noodles and carefully seasoned cakes, jars of jams, and tea sets. The easier to pick your meal. soup. It is topped with savoury slices small, but well-equipped tables look of masterfully marinated beef, fit for a tea party. and sprinkled with tangy, pickled Their selections of cakes are changed vegetables. daily, and range from a simple piece The meals come in two sizes: €4 of cheesecake to the more exotic for a small bowl (typical meal Pistazienmilchreistorte. A delectable sized), or €8 for a large one (for the cake made with rice, pistachios, hearty traveller). This little piece of cherries, and topped with a light Taiwan in Berlin is definitely worth layer of jam. Both drinks and pastries a visit, and though there are some are fairly priced, with the generous differences from the meals served portions big enough for two. over 5000 miles away, they are a close second best. 139 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 140

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Pension Peters budget than the average traveller. Singles cost around 58 euros, doubles www.pension-peters-berlin.de. are 79-85 euros, triples are 95 euros, Kantstrasse 146. U-Bahn: quads are 105 euros, and five beds Savignyplatz. TTel:el: +49 303 122 278. are 120 euros per night. Breakfast is included in the price. The pension was opened in the 1930s and has been run by the same family for the last fourteen years. It has brand new facilities and a simple and artistic design that fits perfectly with the pension’s sleek atmosphere. Although the pension is on a busy street, most rooms surround a courtyard set back from the main road, so there is not much of a problem with noise. The quad rooms are ideal for groups because if four people split the price, the cost ends up being comparable to a hostel, and groups do not have to share their bedroom or bathroom. The pension is walking distance to many cafés, restaurants and Price: shops, so travellers will be spoilt Singles: from €58 for choice when trying to decide Doubles: €79-85 where to get a meal, or where to go Triples: €95 shopping. The main shopping street, Quads: €105 Kurfurstendamm, is a five to ten minute walk away from the pension. Located just aound the corner from Savignyplatz, Pension Peters is ** Free wi-fi perfect for groups of travellers on a ** Breakfast buffet included budget or couples with a little looser ** Includes shower, toilet, TV. 141 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 142

Schöneburg Information

Schöneberg is now one of the more is false. In fact, Berliners had such gentrified areas of Berlin, but it has high regard for him after the speech a surprisingly radical past. Around that, the day after his assassination, Motzstraβe and Fuggerstraβe is the square outside the Rathaus was the city’s oldest gay quarter, and renamed John F Kennedy Platz. For Schöneberg is still home to the cafes and bars try the area around largest gay community in Berlin. Winterfeldtplatz, where there’s also Nollendorfplatz is the scene of a busy Saturday market. much of the nightlife, and inside the U-Bahn station there is a memorial to homosexuals murdered by the Nazi regime. Gay life and the rise of fascism in pre-war Berlin are vividly described in Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories, which are based on his experiences living at Nollendorf Straβe 17. Other famous former residents of the borough include David Bowie and Iggy Pop, who rented a flat at Hauptstraβe 155 in the late seventies. Sixties chanteuse Nico grew up here, as did Marlene Dietrich who is now buried in Friedhof Schöneberg III cemetery. Fans of famous gravestones can also visit the final resting place of the Brothers Grimm at St. Matthäus- Kirchhof. The area’s best known sight is Rathaus Schöneberg where John F Kennedy made his famous ‘Ich bin ein Berliner’ speech in 1963. The well-known story that the president actually said ‘I am a jelly doughnut’ 143 Schöneberg Schöneberg 144

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Trödelmarkt Am Rathaus Botanical Gardens sub-tropical and desert climatic zones. After you’ve walked through Schöneberg www.bgbm.org, Königin-Luise- the extensive displays of cacti, visit John F Kennedy Platz. U-Bahn: Straße 6. U-Bahn: Botanischer the carnivorous plant section. Rathaus Schöneberg. Sat-Sun Garten. Tel: +49 3 083 850 100. 9am- The orchid exhibit and the tropical 9am – 4pm. 9pm in summer. Price: €2-5. dome are a must. This small but perfectly formed Being the second You may also be antiques haven is a cut above largest botanical lucky to spot an Berlin’s numerous other flea garden in the uunsuspecti n s u s p e c t i ngng markets. The goods on offer world this beautiful gecko or one are of high quality and there is reserve allows for of the green much to choose from. endless wanderings woodpeckers that and musings while In front of the impressive offering a haven were introduced Rathaus Schöneberg, stalls to create a more from Berlin’s nearby authentic and overflow with furniture, arts and urban landscape. crafts, vintage clothing, vinyl stable ecosystem. records, books and jewellery..jewellery It boasts 126 acres The park’s museum of lawns, forests and Whilst others may come away consolidates many lakes and is home aspects of the from Moritzplatz with a pair to 22,000 species of tie-dyed Harem pants, at garden itself, and of flora nurtured enables visitors to Schöneberg visitors barter for in the many Art Deco chandeliers, mink see the gardens different gardens as they are in silverware.stoles, antique books and and habitats of the different seasons. park. There are exhibits that explore the Prices start out high, given Amongst the tall trees and idyllic different scientific plant structures the nature of what’s on offer, lakes there is an elegant Italian and others that focus more on the but haggling is both the norm garden, a medicinal plant garden, complex relationship between plants and expected. Books written and a section where you can handle and culture. in English are also widely unusually shaped and scented available, which sell for around So whether a nature buff, a tree- varieties of plant and flower – the hugging hippy or just in need of an €3 each. There are bargains fragrance and touch garden. to be had if you are ready and escape this is something that should willing to search. The striking bio domes house tropical, not be missed. 145 Schöneberg Schöneberg 146

Shopping Food & Drink

meal from one of the many eateries plasma televisions that screen sport nestled amongst the food and drink regularly. counters. Sunday brunch is offered from 10am- The grandeur of the designer- 3pm where pancakes, muffins and lined “Luxury Boulevard” is equally eggs cooked to your preference may worth perusing. Whether or not you be guzzled. Substantial portions, have the appropriate-sized wallet with main courses starting from €5. to tackle this Berlin institution, KaDeWe is certainly worth any Rani ardent shopper’s time. Goltzstraße 32. U-Bahn: Route 66 Nollendorfplatz or Kleistpark. Tel: +49 30 215 267. Open daily from http://route66diner.de. Pariser 11am. Main dishes from €5, side Straße 44. U-Bahn: Weberwiese. TTel:el: dishes from €2. +49 308 831 602. Sat-Thurs: 10am- Slightly hidden away in the streets 2am, Fri & Sat: 10am-4am. of Shöneberg lies this tasty Indian This 1950’s American diner-themed restaurant. There is a large selection restaurant offers a broad menu of of incredibly flavoursome traditional KaDeWe evening and cocktail fashion to typical US and Mexican cuisine. Indian meals available at very accessories for dogs. reasonable prices. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstraβe The restaurant utterly indulges in kitsch, and The atmosphere is 21-24. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. If the enormity of this Berlin is kitted out with an suitably casual as diners TTel:el: +49 3 021 210. Mon-Thurs 10am- establishment seems overwhelming, 8pm, Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 9.30am- then direct your energy towards the excess of neon lights, tuck into what inevitably eating booths and mini becomes a monstrous 8pm. gastronomic glory of the sixth-floor food hall. The incredible array of fine duke boxes at each feast as the aromas and For those in need of some high- foods and wines on offer cannot fail table. flavours lure you into end retail therapy, this seven floor trying many of the dishes to impress. The steaks are juicy, “department store of the West” holds on offer. the burgers wholesome claim to being the second largest in Treat yourself to some quality and milkshakes are A highlight on the menu Europe. German confectionary or limited edition designer mineral water as you thick and creamycreamy.. is definitely the Tikka dishes that As expected from somewhere bearing come served to the table on a frying pass through. Alternatively, linger There is substantial in and outdoor such an accolade, the assortment of skillet, much to the allure of other for longer and enjoy an informal seating space and a selection of goods on sale is vast, ranging from guests in the restaurant. 147 Schöneberg Schöneberg 148

Food & Drink Food & Drink

Joseph Roth Diele Value for money is key here with Munch’s Hus Restaurant delicious meatballs. For those average daytime meal prices starting seeking a light lunch, sandwiches www.jrd.cumed-arts.de. Potsdamer from as low as €4. In spite of the www.munchshus.de. Bülowstraße and salads are also available. Strasse 75. U-Bahn: Kurfursten low price, the food is delicious and 66. U-Bahn: Bülowstraße. Tel: +49 The restaurant’s interior adds a Strasse. Tel: +49 26 369 884. Mon- hearty, if not totally inspiring, and 30 2101 4086. Mon-Sun 10am-1am. sophisticated touch, with large open Fri 10am-12am. Lunchtime specials is perfect to be enjoyed in such a Prices range from €4-€17. windows, summery yellow walls and from €3. humble establishment. As the only Norwegian restaurant in paintings by Norwegian artist Edvard At first glance this small but The most appealing aspect of the Berlin, this place is definitely worth Munch who lived in Berlin in the charming German restaurant along restaurant however can be found a visit if you fancy a change from 1890’s. Potsdamer Strasse appears to almost its art-deco style. A wonderful Currywurst. resemble a 1920’s American diner. The light atmosphere and the Situated in the Schöneberg district, However, the only affordable yet high quality food make Munch’s Hus boasts a range of similarity here lies this restaurant a hit with everyone in its collection of traditional Norwegian delicacies from businessmen to students. including fresh fish dishes and old photographs and memorabilia that give testament to the establishment’s rooted history. Named after a Jewish writer whose material can be found throughout the dining room, it provides a limited but delicious selection of meals that vary throughout the week. contrast of abstract furnishings During the daytime, the menu is and old photos can be found within limited to a daily special (one meat to suitably accompany your meal. and one vegetarian), and in the There are a wide range of barrel and evening there is a slightly more bottled beers on offer, in addition to expansive range of meals on offer. a respectable selection of wines. 149 Schöneberg Schöneberg 150

Accommodation Accommodation

Jungen House Aletto Although the hostel is on the main Sunshine Hostel key if you arrive late at night. road, Grunewald Straβe, the whole www.aletto.de. Grunewaldstrasse hostel is quiet – something they pride www.sunshinehouse-berlin.de. The staff can also prepare breakfast for hungry travellers, which is lovely 33. U-Bahn: Eisenacher Strasse. Tel: themselves on. The only drawback Wexstrasse 8.U-Bahn/S-Bahn: to eat outside in the courtyard or +49 3 021 003 680. is there’s no lift to this five storey Insbrucker Platz. Tel: +49 308 262 in the apartment if it’s cold. If you building. 079. Prices: fancy eating out there are plenty Dorm rooms: €15. · 24-Hour Reception Prices: rooms from €19.50 of cafes and restaurants as well as Single Rooms: €35. This colourful hostel is a place for shops round the corner from the Double Rooms: €39. · All-you-can-eat breakfast travellers of all ages. The hostel has hostel. · Linen provided This modern style hostel at first a definite community feeling with · BYO towels glance looks like a hotel with friendly English-speaking staff who plenty of places to wind down after are very considerate to their guests · Breakfast €5 by request sightseeing. Jungen House Aletto needs. Although the hostel is close to · Internet and WIFWIF has a relaxing sociable atmosphere the motorway it has a huge courtyard where you can meet other travellers area with plenty of places to relax in while drinking tea or coffee courtesy the sun or have a BBQ lunch. of the hostel. The hostel has four separate blocks There’s a lot to do in and around with four levels. Each level is similar this area as the hostel is a stone’s to that of an apartment building with throw away from the U-Bahn and four bedrooms, two bathrooms and a tram stops, which can take you to small fully-equipped kitchen. popular streets like Goltzstraβe and All the rooms are furnished and Akazienstraβe and the tourist spots such as KaDeWe, Gedächtniskirche there’s heaps of space for even the largest suitcases. There are keys to and the Zoo. each room and each floor as well as Each room has all the essentials and the gates to the grounds so it is very are ensuite. The rooms are compact safe. as they’ve certainly made use of There is also a lounge/basement area their space but there is heaps of with TVTV,, foosball and comfy sofas. It’s storage so you won’t be tripping very light, spacious and is kept clean over people’s luggage. All the rooms and tidy, ready for use. Although are modern, clean and each bed is there’s not 24-hour reception there provided with linen and towels. is a code lock system to retrieve your 151 Schöneberg Schöneberg 152

Contributors Contributors 153 154

Contributors Credits

Zaineb Al Hassani Mara Pattison-SowdenPattison-Sowden Editor: Mara Pattison-Sowden Talya Friedman Elizabeth Janowski Natascha Vogel Lucy Bates Layout: Mara Pattison-Sowden Ben Dillman Rebecca Dopson Zoe Milne Adam Willsmore Kirsten Rumbles Matt Wilson Sebastian Cure Helen McFadridge Emily Vindler Piers Leonard Graphic Design: Matt Wilson Pamela Mair Tom Foster Kaye Nicolson Rosanne Visser Art Direction: Matt Wilson Daniel Smith Alison Holland Mara Pattison-Sowden

Karolin Hosenfelder Kieraan Monaghan Zoe Milne Michael McKay Jay Patani Sebastian Cure Sierra Bucher Alana Marmion-Warr Rosanne Visser Sara Johnstone Katie Clark

Jason Chen Peter Bolton Photography and Photo Editing: Rosanne Visser David VaVanderhoff nderhoff Michael Alhadeff Tom Foster Nadine Truong Dorothy Melander-Dayton Matt Wilson Charlotte Nettleship Zoe Milne Nadine Truong Matt Wilson Nicky Branagh Project City Travel Review by: Amy Yu Sheena Odwyer www.citytravelreview.co.uk www.curso24.de Jessica Davidson 155 156

Credits Credits ©::

Zaineb Al Hassani Mara Pattison-Sowden Talya Friedman Elizabeth Janowski Natascha Vogel Lucy Bates Ben Dillman Rebecca Dopson Adam Willsmore Kirsten Rumbles Sebastian Cure Helen McFadridge

Emily Vindler Piers Leonard Pamela Mair TTomom FosterFoster Kaye Nicolson Rosanne Visser Daniel Smith Alison Holland

Karolin Hosenfelder Kieraan Monaghan Michael McKay Jay Patani Sierra Bucher Alana Marmion-WarrarrMarmion-W Sara Johnstone Katie Clark © All Contributors 2009 Jason Chen Peter Bolton David VaVanderhoff nderhoff Michael Alhadeff This document or part thereof may Nadine Truong Dorothy Melander-Dayton not be reproduced without express Charlotte Nettleship Zoe Milne permission from the authors. Matt Wilson Nicky Branagh Amy Yu Sheena Odwyer Jessica Davidson