HUNGARY 2019-20

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Hungary’s Nemzeti Bajnokság (‘National Championship’), was set up in 1901, making it ’s second-oldest league after INTRO Belgium. Provincial winners are a 21st-century phenomenon. Before 2000, the trophy only left the capital, , five times in 99 years, thrice to Győr, once to Vác and once, during the war, to what is now Oradea in .

Crowned a record 30th time in Welcome to 2019, Hungary’s most popular club, liberoguide.com! Ferencváros (‘Fradi’), established The digital travel guide for an early with MTK. The football fans, liberoguide.com Örökrangadó, the Eternal , is the most up-to-date resource, defined the pre-war era just as the city-by-city, club-by-club, to the fiery Fradi-Újpest one became a high- game across Europe and North security operation in modern times. The America. Using only original fourth most successful club is perhaps photos and first-hand research, the most widely known abroad, Honvéd, taken and undertaken over seven thanks to the stellar Puskás era of the seasons, liberoguide.com has . been put together to enhance every football weekend and Euro Up to the 1980s, Hungarian football was night experience. From airport well-attended, double-headers staged to arena, downtown sports bar at the revered national Népstadion, to hotel, liberoguide.com helps rebuilt and reopened in 2019 as you get the best out of your visit the Puskás Aréna, due to stage the to football’s furthest corners and upcoming Euros, a major first for showcase stadiums. Hungary. HUNGARY 2019-20 CONTENTS New stadiums, in fact, abound. While Stadiums have opened in Miskolc, the decades between the decline of Kisvárda, Mezőkövesd and Felcsút, 1-3 Intro 13 DVSC 21 Mezőkövesd SE 4-6 Budapest 14 Felcsút/Bicske 22 Miskolc Communism and rapid, haphazard all hosts of top-flight NB I football in 7 Puskás Aréna 15 Puskás Akadémia 23 DVTK privatisation signalled low crowds and 2019-20, and in no few second-tier NB II 8 Ferencváros 16 Kaposvár 24 Paks crumbling grounds, the last five years destinations. 9 Honvéd 17 Kaposvári Rákóczi 25 Paksi FC have seen a boom – in construction, 10 MTK 18 Kisvárda 26 Székesfehérvár at least. Gleaming new grounds await Attendances, meanwhile, remain low, 11 Újpest 19 Kisvárda FC 27 Fehérvár FC fans in and Székesfehérvár, ticket prices, too. A club-card scheme is 12 Debrecen 20 Mezőkövesd 28 Zalaegerszeg homes of recent title-winners DVSC in place but only Ferencváros insist on 29 Zalaegerszegi TE and Fehérvár FC, the former Videoton. membership before admission.

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The bottom two teams from NB I swap

places with the top two of NB II, whose INTRO 20 teams play each other home and away. The bottom three go down and exchange places with the winners of KISVÁRDA MISKOLC each of the three 16-team divisions of NB III – West (Nyugati), Central (Közép) BICSKE and East (Keleti). MEZŐKÖVESD FELCSÚT DEBRECEN The bottom three clubs from each BUDAPEST division, plus the worst 13th-placed finisher, drop into the County SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR Championship, Megyei Bajnokság. With 19 divisions plus Budapest at this fourth ZALAEGERSZEG level, a play-off system is in place for promotion. A draw pits each of the 20 PAKS champions against another in ten two- legged deciders held on consecutive KAPOSVÁR weekends, home and away, in early/ mid-June. The winners swap places with the ten clubs coming down from NB III, arranged regionally.

There’s another second county level below that, then a third, then, in the case of Budapest, Pest County and a Station to stadium (mavcsoport.hu/en) is reliable and Note that Hungary uses the forint couple of others, a fourth. Hungary has no national airline. affordable, with main routes also (Ft), although major hotels and some Budapest-based, low-cost carrier Wizz forming part of the international train motorway services accept euros. €1 The Hungarian Cup is one of Europe’s Air (wizzair.com) serves many short-haul network around Central Europe. is currently 350 forints. oldest, founded in 1909. The first five routes around Europe, while Polish LOT Few journeys within Hungary more rounds are at County Championship/ (lot.com) deals with long-haul. The main than 3-4hrs. Rural areas are served Tables & trophies The winners of NB I enter the local Budapest level to allow 50-plus budgets have long been established in Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu/en) bus The top two divisions, NB I and Champions League First Qualifying teams to qualify for Round 6 in late Budapest (bud.hu) while Wizz also use services. NB II, are nationwide, breaking in Round, runners-up and third-placed September, where the 12 NB I, 20 NB Debrecen (debrecenairport.com). to regional divisions from NB III finishers the equivalent stage in the II and 40 or so NB III clubs, minus For the motorway (autopálya), you downwards. The top tier consists of Europa League, along with the club the reserve sides of the bigger ones. City transport in Budapest and need a vignette (hungary-vignette.eu) 12 clubs who play each other three lifting the Hungarian Cup. The berth These 128 teams play a round of 64 other main towns is excellent and or matrica, minimum period ten days times over the course of the 33-game passes to the fourth-placed side if this one-off matches at the ground of the cheap. Cross-country, state rail MÁV (Ft3,500). season. club finishes in the league top three. lower club, extra-time and penalties

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deciding if scores are level. Round 7 in October and Round 8 in December are organised along similar lines, before the round of 16 in February, quarter- finals and semi-finals in March/April, all played over two legs.

The final takes place at a neutral ground, either the Groupama Aréna, Entry level The only fixture for which availability Your ticket might show your seat home of Ferencváros or now the Average gates are around 3,000, though is an issue is the Ferencváros-Újpest (szék), in a row (sor), which may be Puskás Aréna, in late May. The winners stadia, even new ones, are also small, derby, and even then, the game left (bal) or right (jobb), within a sector enter the First Qualifying Round of the five below 10,000 capacity in the current shouldn’t sell out. The Hungarian FA (szektor). Prices usually start around Europa League. NB I. runs an online service meccsjegy. Ft1,000-Ft1,500, with reductions mlsz.hu/eng) for most clubs but for buying online. A sideline seat is Season’s dealings are rare. NB II is played on Sundays, The only club where membership is it’s not particularly user-friendly in around Ft1,500-Ft2,000, the best The NB I and NB II seasons run usually at 5.30pm or 7pm, with a compulsory in order to see a game English. seats Ft2,500-Ft3,000. The occasional from late July/early August to mid number of midweek rounds, on is Ferencváros – but the process of older ground will have standing December and early February to Wednesdays, at or around 5.30pm, in registration, even on a match day, is Most stadiums comprise a lelátó, a places, álló. The away is a vendég. mid May. Match times for NB I are the warmer months. An occasional relatively painless. For everywhere else, terrace, usually one down from a A ticket is a jegy, a ticket office a usually Saturday at 5pm and 7.30pm, stand-out game takes place on a pay on the day is fine, and the better terasz, one with a better view. A tribün pénztár – credit cards issued abroad and Sunday at 6pm. Midweek rounds Monday evening, on or around 8pm. clubs have online sales in English. is a stand. are usually accepted.

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Budapest BUDAPEST

One of Europe’s traditional football capitals, Budapest is regaining its old pomp thanks to new stadiums replacing famous old ones, most notably the national Puskás Aréna, the Groupama Aréna and the Új Hidegkuti Stadion, the former Népstadion and recently built homes of Ferencváros 6:3 and MTK.

The city’s best-known name, Honvéd, the dominant side during the golden era of the 1950s, are currently playing at MTK while their own ground is being rebuilt.

Still playing at their old ground, and the only major club not receiving Lánchíd Söröző government money in some way or other, is Újpest, whose ownership woes under the yoke of Duchâtelet would Also outside Arrivals, a kiosk be understood by fans of Charlton whenever European champions Ajax 12 years. In 2019, Ferencváros won a Bearings dispatches Főtaxi (+36 1 222 2 222) – though even they haven’t slung toilet touched the ball. record 30th crown. Budapest’s Liszt Ferenc Airport is 16km services into town. The standard fare is seats onto the pitch to protest the (ten miles) south-east of town. Terminal around Ft8,000/€23. Around town, be shape of their rebranded club logo. Twenty-five years later, those grim By then, the final touches were being 2 is the only one in operation, comprised careful of taxis waiting outside major days seem a very long time ago. The added to the Puskás Aréna, the of adjoining buildings A and B. Terminal hotels and nightlife hubs. Three of the capital’s top four appeared old ground at Üllői út was knocked national stadium due to co-host the 12- 1 closer to town is not open to the public, in European finals in the 1960s and down in 2013 and Chelsea were the city Euros, a major first for Budapest. although the rail terminal opposite still The BKK transport network consists 1970s, the last time that Budapest visitors a year later when the new functions. of four metro lines, buses, trams, really shone in the international Groupama Aréna opened on the same With a quarter of the NB I based in trolleybuses, boats and suburban spotlight. Manchester United, site. In 2015-16, it was the scene of the capital, and another four currently The No.100 bus leaves from outside trains. Night buses run along with Liverpool, Leeds and Celtic all came wild celebrations in when Hungary in the second tier, there are always Terminal 2 Arrivals every 15-30min the 24hr No.6 tram along the city’s here and lost. A single appearance by beat in a play-off for Euro at least three games to see every until 1.20am. Journey time to central busiest boulevard, the Nagykörút. Ferencváros in the Champions League 2016, their first major finals for 30 weekend. Transport is swift and Deák tér is around 45min. The service Tram No.1 connects the Puskás Aréna, in 1995 is worst remembered for the years. A few months later, the nation’s easy, admission is cheap and beer is requires a special airport shuttle Ferencváros and MTK within a few racist chanting by half the stadium most popular club won its first title in plentiful. ticket (Ft900/€2.60). stops. Each journey requires a ticket

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to be stamped, not if changing metro BUDAPEST trains. A single is Ft350/€1, a book of ten Ft3,000/€8.60, available from machines, credit cards accepted.

Bed Budapest Tourist Office (budapestinfo. hu) has little hotel information.

Alongside the metro station for the Puskás Aréna, the four-star Danubius Hotel Arena has a pool, gym and spa, also handy for the No.1 tram to MTK and Ferencváros. A short walk from the tram stop on Kerepesi út is the conference-friendly Green Hotel and, opposite each other on Cházár András utca off main Thököly út, are the spa- equipped Lion’s Garden Hotel and the Dominik Pánzió, a comfortable budget Diagonally across from Ferencváros, option. the standard Hunguest Millennium, the former Tulip Inn, is also convenient Across from Keleti station, still walking as it’s on the main road to the airport. distance from the stadium, the smart Royal Park Boutique Hotel is a handy Budapest is renowned for its spas and On the Pest side of Elizabeth Bridge, where the Lumière brothers put on mid-range choice with a lobby bar spa hotels – the legendary Gellért is the recently opened Párisi Udvar fills Budapest’s first film screening while the while the Baross City offers standard the most famous, though rooms need a fin-de-siècle architectural landmark four-star Radisson Blu Béke dates back convenience. Close by, the long- modernisation. On the same Buda with luxury lodgings and an elegant café to 1913 and still displays the artwork of established Hungaria City Center is bank, Lánchíd 19 is a classy design and restaurant. Jenő Haranghy, who designed many of the largest hotel in the country, with hotel whose best rooms overlook the Hungary’s stamps. nearly 500 rooms and suites. Chain Bridge. Near Pest’s nightlife vortex, the Soho Boutique on Dohány utca adds flair Bars Of historic interest and at a main Five-star hotels tower over the city’s main square, Vörösmarty tér, the D8 amid many Airbnb rentals. Nearby New Budapest is a great bar city. District transport hub convenient for the retail hub, Deák Ferenc utca, including exudes urban savvy while over the river, York Palace is 21st-century luxury VII, between the Great Synagogue and Puskás Aréna, the Astoria features an the Ritz-Carlton and Kempinski, whose in the same family the equally funky hotel recreation of Budapest’s most Klauzál tér, is the nightlife hub. Within elegant café on the ground floor. bars host special big-match events. Hotel Clark is named after the Scottish revered 19th-century café. Further it, the Gozsdu udvar passageway is Near the Opera House on Lázár utca, engineer who completed the iconic along the tram-lined thoroughfare, the lined with venues. Football-focused Right opposite MTK, the ACHAT is the Hilton Garden Inn also opens up Chain Bridge it overlooks – best viewed Nagykörút, towards Nyugati station, bars include Ziccer and Champs on an upscale German chain four-star. its rooftop space. Just off the city’s from the rooftop cocktail bar. the equally elegant Corinthia was Dohány utca, one decorated with

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In similar vein, behind the Mammut BUDAPEST mall in Buda, Kubala takes its name and inspiration from the Hungarian star of the same era, who transformed Barcelona – hence the FCB colour scheme here and seven TVs tuned to football.

Finally, in the departures terminal of Budapest airport, Scando sports-bar chain O’Learys provides a farewell pint and gawp at football before you board your plane.

Shops Hungary, Ferencváros and Újpest tops are among the international football merchandise on offer at Lion’s Sport on Rákóczi út towards Keleti station. Football Factor at Andrássy út 81 deals more in kits of top European sides, and the latest multi-coloured boots. Another branch operates at the Allee shopping mall in Buda.

Across the Danube, named after the More niche is a tiny emporium tucked Chain Bridge it stands near, the Buda- away at the back of a courtyard side Lánchíd Söröző at Fő utca 4 is a on Budapest’s main shopping homely, retro-themed bar/restaurant thoroughfare, Váci utca. Hungarian top-quality photos of Hungarian fans, When Lonyáy utca meets the Nagykörút, feel, the new owners lay on live-match with two rooms, old Who videos in one, Football-Sport Shop, signposted the other with line drawings of Magyar near the Boráros tér stop on main tram screenings and occasional special TV football in another. at No.23, is a treasure trove of Olympian heroes since 1896 – it also line Nos.2, 4 and 6, the 6:3 takes its events. Khrushchëv-era badges, scarves, runs a summer terrace sports bar on name from the famous scoreline when Up in Óbuda, a short hop on the shirts and pennants. . Further up, where Dob Hungary beat England at Wembley In the city centre, Jack Doyle’s off focal No.17 tram from , utca meets the tram-lined ring road, the in 1953. Its former owner, Nándor Váci utca is the leading Irish pub for the Puskás Pancho Sport Pub, part Tourist souvenir chain Memories of Nagykörút, Score and Winners offer big- Hidegkuti, scored a hat-trick that day, sports-watching while nearer Deák tér, of the Symbol restaurant/nightclub Hungary usually stocks a number of screen action. Also nearby, the Stifler and the bar remained in local hands until the Staropramen Söröző on Bárczy complex. Menu, décor and on-sale Puskás-related items, mugs, T-shirts and Pointer Pub chains have several taken over by a quartet of expat football István utca attracts a Hungarian crowd to souvenirs relate to ‘the Galloping and replica shirts. You’ll find branches burger-and-soccer sports bars, on and fans in 2018. Keeping its priceless watch big-screen games and gather on a Major’, Pancho to Madrileños, Öcsi to near the Basilica, at Parliament, by the off the Nagykörút. Puskás-era mementoes and traditional downtown terrace to sip Czech beer. Hungarians. Fishermen’s Bastion and at the airport.

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Puskás Aréna ARÉNAPUSKÁS The Puskás Aréna (facebook.com/ puskasarena) is the second iteration of Hungary’s national stadium.

The first and most iconic, the Népstadion (‘People’s Stadium’) not only hosted the great stars of the early 1950s, they helped build it – motivational photos show Puskás and co lugging wheelbarrows full of bricks with hundreds of other volunteers. The stadium opened on managed to echo as much of the Hungary’s national day, August 20, original stadium as possible, a steel in 1953, with an exhibition game mesh replicating its monolithic between Honvéd and . exterior. Three tiers of seats ring the Nine months later, many of those pitch in intimate fashion. Hungarian players trounced England here, 7-1. The basic cost? Ft142.85 billion, €400 million-plus. After the curtain-raiser Half a century later, shortly before his of Hungary-Uruguay in November death, the stadium took Puskás’ name. 2019, the Puskás Aréna stages the An arena created in Socialist-Realist 2020 Hungarian Cup Final, four games style holding 100,000, proudly decked co-hosting the Euros and the Europa out in red, white and green, had League final of 2022. Westend mall behind Nyugati station. Bars By Stadion bus station, smart Ypsilon meanwhile been reduced to a UEFA- Distribution is also carried out by jegy. Walking up from Keleti station, the (‘Y’) has a lovely terrace and Bitburger advised 35,000-seater. Transport hu and interticket.com. Stadion Söröző is a popular pre-match beer. Further down Stefánia út at The stadium has its own stop, Puskás meeting place where Thököly meets No.29, another terrace awaits at Three failed bids to co-host the Ferenc Stadion, on the red M2 metro Visitor Centre Dózsa György út. the timeless Tücsök Sörkert, with Euros did little to release funds for line, one up from Keleti station, and on In 2018, a first-floor Visitor Centre an interior of vintage Hungarian a new national stadium, until the tramline No.1. (Tue-Sun 10am-5pm, free admission) On the other side of the arena by the advertising posters and a beer garden government gave the green light in opened by the metro station. It shows a No.1 tram stop, Stefano is both a cosy as promised in the name. 2013. Tickets history of the stadium and provides an football bar and pizzeria, rare scarves Tickets (Ft3,000-Ft12,000/€8.650-€35.50) immersive drone view of construction. and pennants decorating a cabin-like Close to the stadium at the The old stadium was demolished are sold across the counter from You can replay the 7-1 game of 1954 interior. Opt for a classic Hungarian neighbouring SYMA events centre, in 2016, the new 67,000-capacity the windows at the Papp László using the popular Hungarian version dish if you’re dining. Around the corner, past the security barrier on Dózsa Puskás Aréna built between 2017- Sportaréna alongside, the IBUSZ of football-tiddlywinks, gombfoci, with the Félidő (‘Half-Time’) Söröző is a György út, Planet Sport is a basic bar/ 19. Architect György Skardelli has office at and the outlet at the players’ portraits on each counter. basic pre-match choice. restaurant with a first-floor terrace.

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least seven days in advance. Prices FERENCVÁROS rise for A-category games, such as against Újpest, the only fixture where availability may be an issue.

Shop, museum & tours The Fradi Bolt (Mon-Sat 10am- 7pm) near the Flórián Albert statue stocks 30-branded gear to mark the record title. Inside the main entrance, the FTC Museum (Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, not match days) features imaginative displays, include a row of lockers Ferencváros providing individual audio histories as you open the door. Admission is With a record 30th title win in Ft1,600/€4.60 or Ft1,899/€5.45 with 2019, Hungary’s most popular club a brief stadium tour (every 15min Fri, Ferencváros (fradi.hu/en) are rocking, by reservation Sat-Sun via muzeum@ their impressive Groupama Aréna groupamaarena.com). doubling up as the national stadium after it opened in 2014. Bars Facing Népliget bus station, Their former ground was named after the Szöglet (‘Corner’) Presszó Flórián Albert, iconic ‘Fradi’ forward serves standard drinks amid Fradi when they made two European finals iconography. In the metro station, in three years in the 1960s. The next the Zöld Villám Ételbár has changed star, , led the midfield of With a capacity of 22,000, the Transport The registration process must be little since the 1990s, though the the side in the Cup Winners’ Cup final Groupama Aréna was engineered to The stadium is just above Népliget carried out in person at the stadium FTC scarves and line-up photos of 1975, and was coach for much of the corral the club’s notorious following, metro station on the blue M3 line. ticket office (Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat may have been updated. Alongside, successful 1990s. the B-közép, in the home end (sectors Tram 1 stops on the same side of Üllői 9am-1pm or until kick-off, match-day the contemporary Ági Presszó displays B1-B3) – a podium allows someone út, the main road to Budapest Airport, Sun & Mon, ID required) on Üllöi út. It black-and-white photos of the Ági as The stage was set for Fradi, with their to conduct the singing. Around 1,200 as Népliget bus station, terminus for costs Ft1,000/€2.90 during the week, was, a drinking den for FTC regulars. significant fan base, to be a major player away fans are accommodated in international services. Ft 1,500/€4.30 on match days. in the region but mismanagement saw sector E where the opposite end By the club shop, the Gólvonal Bisztró Ferencváros forcibly relegated in 2006. meets the VIP stand. Along the other Tickets Ticket prices start at Ft2,700/€7.75 (‘Goal-line Bistro’) offers weekday and The arrival of Gábor Kubatov, MP for sideline, seats in sectors C4-C5 are Ferencváros are the only club in for the home B-közép, rising to pre-match menus, TVs and artistic Hungary’s ruling party , as club prime 1.kategória, those in C3 and C6 Hungary who insist on a membership Ft4,950/€14.20 for the best seats in renditions of Fradi’s achievements on president in 2011 signalled a sea change. either side cheaper. card to buy a match ticket. sectors C4-C5. It’s 10% cheaper at the walls.

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Honvéd HONVÉD

Forever linked with the great side of the 1950s – their stadium is named after its captain, József Bozsik – Honvéd (honvedfc.hu) are based in the sleepy suburb of in the far south-east of town.

Here Bozsik and Ferenc Puskás grew up by the ground. Puskás’ father played for his local club, Kispest, while Puskás junior learned his skills with a ball of rolled-up rags, usually with his best mate from round the corner, József ‘Cucu’ Bozsik. Tickets Honvéd have customised the MTK Making the first team at 16 with his stadium by calling Stand A Bozsik and father as manager, Puskás ‘Öcsi’ Stand B Kispest, tickets costing the quickly established himself in the same, Ft1,690/€4.85. Better seats, 1940s. Ft2,250/€6.45, are in the Puskás sectors, A3-A4/A6-A7. Modest Kispest were taken over by the Hungarian Army (‘Honvéd’) in 1949. Museum Now the ‘Galloping Major’, Puskás their championship win of 1955 Stadion, in a winner-takes-all clash Rebuilt and reopened in 1938, this Behind the church on Templom tér was joined by Sándor Kocsis, then gaining them entry to the European with Videoton in 2017. was where Puskás junior made his halfway between Hátár út metro Gyula Grosics, in 1950. Alongside, Cup of 1956-57. After the first round, debut. The Honvéd name attracted and the stadium, at Fő utca 38, the always, was Bozsik. away leg in Bilbao, revolution broke A year later, the last match was played foreign investors in the 1990s but it Kispesti Futball Ház (Mon & Thur out in Budapest. Playing the second at this venerable ground. While a new wasn’t until franchise mogul George F 5pm-8pm) is overseen by ex-Honvéd Honvéd won two titles that year, leg in neutral , and an stadium rises in its place, Honvéd are Hemingway took over the club in 2006 star László Gyimesi. Highlights another in 1952 with Gyula Lóránt, unofficial tour abroad to raise survival playing at MTK, whose ground, the that significant improvements were include a match programme for the and another in 1954 with Zoltán funds, Puskás, Czibor and Kocsis Hidegkuti Nándor, is named after made. Wolves-Honvéd game of 1954 which Czibor. All but four of the Hungary found success in Spain. another member of that illustrious led to the creation of the European team that famously beat England 6-3 Hungary side of the 1950s. For details, All was demolished in 2019, when Cup, and a photo of a Kispest line-up in 1953 were Honvéd players. Honvéd kept winning titles into the see page 10. Hemingway sold Honvéd to Reditus from 1929 featuring Ferenc Purczeld, early 1990s – but it would be 24 years Equity. The new Bozsik, with a father of Ferenc Puskás. Contact After the World Cup defeat a year before the former army side lifted The original Kispest ground opened capacity of 8,000-plus, is due to open [email protected] or phone later, Honvéd continued to dominate, the trophy again, at a packed Bozsik in 1913 and burned down in 1935. in the summer of 2020. +36 30 204 6926.

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sectors A1-A5 and A6-A9 sit either side MTK of them along one stand, facing those in B1-B9 opposite. Visiting supporters are allocated four sectors, V1-V4, beside B9. Entrance is through Gate 3 at the corner of Hungária körút and Sport utca.

Transport The stadium has its own stop on the No.1 tramline that also calls at the Puskás Aréna and Ferencváros. Tram Nos.28 and 37 run here from Blaha Lujza tér (red M2 metro) six stops away.

Bars MTK Either side of the No.1 tram stop on Hungária körút stand two modest Magyar Testgyakorlók Köre, MTK drinking spots. By the supermarket, (‘Em-Tay-Kah’, mtkbudapest.hu) the Netovább (‘Go No Further!’) is a were founded in 1888, comprised of betting bar where a revered landlady Budapest’s mercantile and Jewish pours Czech Krušovice, a better bet community, with whom the club has than local Soproni. Terrace tables always been associated. appear in summer. On the stadium raiser against Sporting Lisbon – MTK’s the irony of MTK doubling for the side, the basement Satyó attracts the Successful between the wars, MTK are opponents in their only European Colombes in Paris wasn’t lost on locals boxing fraternity. based the other side of Népliget park final to date, in 1964 – the ground – not only was the ground an antique, from eternal rivals Ferencváros, with comprises two sideline stands and its role model was where Hungary lost Round the corner on Sport utca, if whom they play the eternal derby, or On the same site, the Új (‘New’) concrete walls behind each goal, the World Cup final in 1938. the bar at the BKV Előre stadium is örökrangadó. While FTC have Hungary’s Hidegkuti Nándor Stadion currently eliciting comparisons with a municipal open, you’re in luck – it’s retro heaven biggest fan base, MTK traditionally hosts both MTK and Honvéd, whose five-a-side pitch. Outside the new stadium stands a with bells on. BKV is the Budapest attract the smallest gates in the capital. own Bozsik József Stadion is also statue of Károly ‘Csikar’ Sándor, scorer transport company and various visiting being rebuilt. Completion is due for It certainly doesn’t look like the kind of of two goals in that Cup Winners’ Cup Lokomotivs and Dynamos in Socialist Numbers dwindled even lower when 2020. Relegated in 2019, MTK plan to stadium that Pelé would grace – unlike Final of 1964. times left a wealth of pennants. It’s the MTK’s dilapidated ground – named make a swift return to the top flight. the old ground, where cult film Escape eleven paces between BKV and MTK, after their most famous player, Nándor to Victory was made in 1981. While Capacity is 5,000, including an the world’s shortest groundhop. On Hidegkuti, the deep-lying forward of the Their new stadium is not without its Bobby Moore and Michael Caine were ambitious 500 seats in skyboxes and match days, a bland stadium bar glorious 1950s – was being rebuilt. critics. Opened in 2016 with a curtain- also playing in this war-time drama, 260 places for VIPs. Spectators in operates behind the seats in Stand A.

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(Tribün, Ft3,000/€8.60) tiers. Under-14s ÚJPEST and over-65s are admitted free, with proof of age.

Shop Dressing gowns, baby clothes and replica shirts are ranged around the little club shop (Mon-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat 10am-2pm, match days), by the car park behind the main stand.

Bars Kék Duna The classic Újpest bar is the Kék Duna on Berzeviczy Gergely utca, near Újpest-Városkapu metro, a cellar haunt of older fans and players, lined with classic photos.

Nearer the stadium, where Baross utca meets Mildenberger utca, the Újpesti Foci Falatozó is a small bar/cafe run by a lovely local couple, one an old fan responsible for the tasteful displays Charlton fans feel about his father are placed through gate II, in a corner of old UTE line-ups and scarves from Újpest Roland running their club – Újpest’s club between stands B and C. The home end, visiting fans. Note the team from 1903 badge, reshaped in the form of a toilet D, is accessed through gates IV and V. and Newcastle badge among the Ever-present in NB I since 1912, Újpest seat, is one of many gripes. scarves. (ujpestfc.hu) are one of the great names Transport in Hungarian football, forever associated Based in the port district of north Pest, Set way up in north Budapest, to Mildenberger utca behind the At the stadium, you’ll find the UTE with European runs in the 1960s and the club benefit from little state aid, the stadium requires a bus from stadium, buses every 15-20min. Büfé kiosk on the corner of the main 1970s. The last notable foreign scalps another sticking point – although the either Újpest-központ or Újpest- stand and the home end, a simple kiosk were claimed in the early 1980s and the (aka Megyeri út) Városkapu at the end of the blue M3 Tickets with benches outside. Facing the main last league title was won in 1998. was upgraded in 2016. metro line. The No.104 (every 30min) Admission is cash only, on the stand in the ice-hockey arena, a bar and No.196 (every 15min) trundle the day – taking ID with you isn’t a bad provides Borsodi beer and hot dogs – it Rare cheer for loyal lilák fans includes An all-seater of 13,500-capacity, 5min to Tímár utca near the stadium. idea. Pricing is set at Ft1,500/€4.30 opens for football matches. Another bar the occasional cup win in 2014 and 2018, covered but for 1,200 seats, the stadium for the home end, the D lelátó, and sits beneath the main stand, near the and derby victories over Ferencváros. comprises four stands, main A, B terasz A handy alternative is bus Ft2,500/€7.20 for the sideline B terasz. entrance, serving Gallica Belgian beer. The ownership of Roderick Duchâtelet along the opposite sideline, and C and No.30 from Hösők tere on the yellow The main stand, A terasz, is divided You’re welcome to take your drinks to inspires only anger, similar to how D lelátó behind each goal. Away fans M1 metro line, journey time 25min into lower (Ft2,600/€7.50) and upper your seat.

liberoguide.com 11 HUNGARY 2019-20 Debrecen www.liberoguide.com/debrecen

Debrecen DEBRECEN

Hungary’s second city of Debrecen was the country’s football capital for much of the 21st century, its status assured with a new stadium in 2014 when flagship club DVSC also won a seventh title in ten seasons.

Since then, silverware has been as rare as European victories. After being built at a cost of Ft12.5 billion/€36 trolleybuses. A ticket is Ft350/€1 from million, the – in newsstands, Ft450/€1.30 on board. the park of the same name just north of town, dotted with spa hotels, the Bed zoo and the old ground – is barely Debrecen Tourist Information a fifth full for most games. The (debrecen.hu/en) has details of hotels. only exception has been the packed Quality lodgings surround the new house of 20,000 who witnessed the stadium, starting with the nearest, international staged here that May the Aquaticum five-star spa hotel of 2014, Hungary’s 2-2 draw with lined with pools, alongside the rustic Denmark featured an opening goal Villa Hotel with its Finnish sauna from local hero Balázs Dzsudzsák, the and terrace restaurant, Krúdy. Also Centrum across the main square On nearby Csapó utca, Roncsbár was national team captain. at this junction, the Nagyerdő has its may be a more comfortable option or, opened by stalwart DVSC defender and own spa and pools while the Divinus behind the Great Church, the four-star seven-time title winner Csaba Bernáth Bearings is the best hotel in town, a five-star Lycium, with its spa and restaurant. and a local rock group, its huge terrace Debrecen Airport is 5km (three spa and conference centre with a with a ruin pub feel, ideal for live miles) south-west of town. A DKV cosmopolitan restaurant. The Régi Posta is also well-located shows and match screenings. bus (Ft400/€1.15) connects with on Széchenyi utca, its 300 years of flights, terminating at the train station For a taste of pre-gentrified Debrecen, hospitality including a visit by the king North towards the university and (12min). A Főnixtaxi (+36 52 444 444) the Sport beside the old ground still of Sweden in 1714. stadium, the Péterfia, Calico Jack and charges Ft3,000/€8.65 into town. echoes its Socialist-era roots despite MOB around Bem tér appeal to local an upgrade. Bars youth by ticking all the right Loki, rock From Budapest Nyugati, a direct Terrace bars line focal Piac utca by the and beer boxes. train (Ft4,500/€13) takes 2hr 30min. In town, the most famous hotel is main square. Pince has a big TV screen and tasteful décor. The nearby Play Debrecen station is just south the Aranybika, whose rooms have set up outdoors, Belga comprises Belgian Back in town, the excellent Bakelit Pub on Szent Anna utca contains a of the centre. DKV city transport seen better days but whose history pub, restaurant and boutique hotel, while Music Café on Kossuth utca combines convivial enclosed terrace, and offers consists of two tramlines, buses and dates back to 1915. The mid-range Bar Craft is an esport hangout. electronica, football action, fine drinks comfortable accommodation.

liberoguide.com 12 HUNGARY 2019-20 DVSC www.liberoguide.com/dvsc

DVSC DVSC

It’s a decade since DVSC (dvsc. hu), the railway workers’ team from Debrecen, faced Liverpool, Lyon and Fiorentina in the Champions League group stage. For ten years from 2004- 05, ‘Loki’ dominated the Hungarian game, winning seven titles, the last coming just as their new stadium, the Nagyerdei Stadion, was preparing for Nearby, surrounded by greenery, the its grand opening on May Day, 2014. Leveles Csárda, Régi Vigadó and Krúdy restaurant are classic Hungarian After Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor establishments attached or close to Orbán declared the stadium open, the hotels. German, Czech and Belgian first of many across Hungary, Loki beers feature at the Krúdy, as well as the legends Tibor Dombi and Sándor Tamás famed meaty Hortobagy pancakes, near lined up for a gala match. Rather than the national park they are named after. another landmark in the making of a By the Aquaticum spa hotel, the Grande football empire in north-east Hungary, Bosco serves Med favourites and hefty however, it proved the end of an era. burgers on a pretty terrace bookended Debreceni Vasutas Sport Club have not by a sport-tuned TV. won the title since. In warmer weather by the lake, Beat The stadium remains of course, to the Nagyerdei leisure complex depending on the fixture. Seats in Beach gets lively at weekends and the all 20,000 capacity of it, usually at Aquaticum and 15min away ten sectors C1-7 along the sidelines cost Nagyerdei Víztorony spreads deckchairs accommodating under 4,000 for most stops away. Trams run every 6-10min. around Ft2,500/€7.20. Top seats (A1-2, around the water tower and serves league games. Four stands, each a From Aquaticum, the stadium is on the A4-5) are Ft3,500-Ft4,000/€10-€11.50. spritzers. By the DVSC Shop, stadium single tier of bright red seats, surround other side of the lake to the right as you bar Red & White operates match days the grass pitch, west for press and descend. Merchandise includes smart ‘Csak a and through the week, the terrace VIPs, south the home end (sectors Loki’ (‘Only Loki’) tracksuit tops, DVSC busy, the interior a squeeze but large B4-B8), sectors D3-D4 earmarked for Tickets & shop earrings and branded glasses for pálinka enough for a TV to show sport. Domestic visiting fans in the north end alongside A ticket outlet operates at the DVSC brandy. Soproni, Heineken and Strongbow are Nagyerdei körút. Shop (Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, match days). the draught options, with Krušovice in Hungarian-only online sales are through Bars restaurant than pub, surveys this busy bottles, decent Hungarian wines from Transport the stadium website (nagyerdeistadion. Several bars and restaurants cluster junction from its equally busy terrace. the Gere and Nyakas stables and superb The main tram No.1 runs from the hu). Prices for the home end and away around the Aquaticum tram stop. The Facing it, the pub at the upscale Divinus pálinka brandies from Rézangyal also station, up through the town centre sectors are around Ft1,500/€4.30 Palma Söröző, now more smart Hotel offers refreshing Bitburger. available.

liberoguide.com 13 HUNGARY 2019-20 Felcsút/Bicske www.liberoguide.com/felcsut

across the main road from the lake. FELCSÚT/BICSKE Another rustic hideaway, it comprises 25 standard rooms with a classic Hungarian restaurant connected by a staircase lined with an extensive collection of football pennants. Wines from nearby Etyek also feature. There’s an outdoor pool in summer and a children’s playground.

Beer In Alcsútdoboz, the Hegedűs Étterem on main Szabadság utca exudes Hungarian tradition, offering classic Felcsút/Bicske Magyar drinks and dishes, with a pool table thrown in and Puskás Akadémia Mention Felcsút, Puskás Akadémia fixtures on the wall. Further along, and the Pancho Aréna – hamlet, club the Mészáros combines a modern and stadium – and Viktor Orbán must bar, pizzas and bowling, with a sunny come into the conversation. Among terrace. the many stadiums Hungary’s football- obsessed prime minister has built, a Felcsút itself has few bars – the Vértes spectacular one stands in this one- at main road Fő utca 59, is part shop- road village where he spent much of part bar. his childhood. In Bicske, the colourful Homály Here, beside the nearest town of Running to the Pancho Aréna is a Bearings Bed on Kossuth tér is terrace café, bar, Bicske, Orbán played for the village newly built narrow-gauge rail, the Budapest Airport is 80km (50 miles) By the arboretum in Alcsútdoboz, at kitchen and nightspot in one, and team before helping set up a football Vál-völgyi Kisvasút. It sets off from from Bicske, served by half-hourly the opposite end of the narrow-gauge a very pleasant place to watch the academy in the name of Hungary’s the village where Orbán’s other trains from Budapest Déli station rail from the stadium 35min away, the game. Round the corner on main Szent greatest player. Orbán had the grandfather lived, Alcsútdoboz, site of (journey time 35mins, Ft745/€2.15) rustic three-star Puskás Ferenc Sport István út, the Korona is a prominent, country’s greatest architect, Imre the Puskás Ferenc Sport Hotel. which arrive at beneath a road bridge. Hotel also runs a popular terrace spacious pub/pizzeria by the bus stop Makovecz, organic in approach, Above, from the Bicske, vasútállomás restaurant. Sixteen rooms, some with for Felcsút. design a cathedral-like arena. Its A feeder club for Fehérvár FC in bejárati út stop, buses run every balconies, overlook greenery, with first match was the final of the nearby Székesfehérvár, the Felcsút 30min-1hr to Felcsút 10min away. horse riding next door. At Bicske station, the stand-alone Puskás Cup for youth teams in 2014, nursery side Puskás Akadémia won Bicke itself is a 5-10min walk away, The only hotel in Bicske, the family- Bakterház serves standard Hungarian the winners Real Madrid, whose promotion to NB I in 2013 and came turning right on the bridge. friendly Báder Fogadó stands at drinks to travellers waiting for their legendary old Hungarian star they within a penalty shoot-out of cup The nearest cab firm is Lővei Family the other end of town from the train, gossip shared in the dowdy nicknamed Pancho. silverware in 2018. Taxi in Páty (+36 20 286 0668). train station, on Szent László utca, interior.

liberoguide.com 14 HUNGARY 2019-20 Puskás Akadémia www.liberoguide.com/puskas-akademia

The Vál-völgyi Kisvasút narrow- AKADÉMIA PUSKÁS gauge rail is a nice way to travel to a football match – but only makes sense if you’re staying/dining at the Puskás Ferenc Sport Hotel by the arboretum at Alcsútdoboz at the other terminal. The journey takes 35mins.

Tickets Puskás Akadémia distribute through Eventim (eventim.hu), at offices of IBUSZ, throughout Budapest and on Fő tér in Tatabánya, for example. The ticket windows on Puskás Ferenc utca his associates are talking shop while operate most weekdays (10am-6pm) the game goes on. These national and match days. Advance admission is influencers also convened for the 2018 Ft800/€2.30, on the day Ft1,000/€2.90 Hungarian Cup Final in Budapest, across the board, the cheapest in academy here in 2007. Then a nursery Újpest roared on to victory by the Hungary. Under-14s go in free. club for the nearby main team, crowd, Puskás Akadémia quietly Fehérvar, formerly Videoton. Then missing out on a first trophy. Shop came the stadium, an architectural The PAFC club shop operates at wonder completed after its designer At the Pancho Aréna, home fans the Auchan hypermarket (Mon-Sat died in 2011. occupy sectors 1C/2D behind the south 9am-8pm, Sun 10am-6pm) by the M7 goal on Puskás Ferenc utca, 1A/B- in motorway outside Székesfehérvár at Though only holding 3,500, this is the stand nearest Fő út, and 2E-G Holland fasor 2. Hungary’s football hub, a complex of opposite. Away fans enter through gate ten training pitches and 14 dressing 3 to access sectors 3H/I in the north- Bars known for his stunning churches. rooms. As an academy, its greatest east corner. The only bar in the vicinity is the Puskás Akadémia The reason can be found a short walk product has probably been László Mediterrán Kávéház, with a little away, the house where Hungarian Kleinheisler, the fiery midfielder Transport covered terrace on main Fő utca 161, For a club whose home gates prime minister Viktor Orbán lives, whose stunning goal against Norway Fairly regular buses from Bicske, diagonally opposite the complex. average 1,300, in a village of 1,700 overlooking the whole football realm in the Euro 2016 qualifying play- either from the bridge above the News clippings relating to PAFC have people, Puskás Akadémia (pfla. he has created in the name – and off practically reversed 40 years of station or the Korona pizzeria on main been mounted behind the bar, where hu) from Felcsút attract an awful nickname, Pancho – of Ferenc Puskás. Hungarian football hurt in one shot. Szent István út take 10min to reach standard bottled beer (no draught) is lot of attention. And it’s not just the Felcsút. One stop after the entrance to dispensed, plus decent coffee. Décor magnificent stadium, the Pancho First, on the 80th anniversary of his Off the pitch, the VIP section gets the village is Felcsút, terményraktár – is otherwise limited to James Dean Aréna, created by Imre Makovecz, birthday, Orbán helped set up an most focus, not least when Orbán and the stadium is alongside. and the Colosseum in Rome.

liberoguide.com 15 HUNGARY 2019-20 Kaposvár www.liberoguide.com/kaposvar

Kaposvár’s first private hotel when it KAPOSVÁR Kaposvár opened in 1985.

Kaposvár was a thriving county capital Over on Kossuth tér, the prominent when the head of the local sugar factory Kapos enjoyed grander days as decided to form a football team here in the Korona, before its conversion 1923. An important railway hub between under post-war Socialism. By the Budapest and , the city attracted nearby bar hub of Noszlopy utca, the Hungary’s great artists and writers but Bárány Fogadó operates as a seven- would remain a footballing backwater. room pension as well as a decent restaurant. Investment in the north-east of Hungary has seen new stadiums spring up in Beer modest communities such as Kisvárda Bars line pedestrianised Noszlopy and Mezőkövesd, while Kaposvár and utca, the excellent Rotonda the best of nearby Pécs in the south-west struggle a good bunch. The popular two-floor with poor facilities. ‘Roto’ has been screening games for ten years, autographed sports tops Promoted to the NB I in 2019, Kaposvári sharing wall space with retro-style Rákóczi still exist nearly a century on film history. It rubs terraces with but the Rákóczi Stadion is the shabbiest the more down-to-earth Popeye in the whole top division. A little train Stella Söröző next door. A few doors track still runs from the factory opposite down, brew pub Hansdonner rides right up to the main entrance of the the current trend of craft beer and stadium but both have seen better burgers, its name taken from the days. It sits in a neglected area of town, Austrian pioneer who changed the south-east of the busy pedestrianised Kaposvár station is south-east of the The nearest lodging to the stadium, the local drinking industry 150 years ago. centre. centre a short stroll away, the stadium Apponyi Vendégház on Gróf Apponyi further south-east, also walkable. Albert utca, is a homely guesthouse Opposite, live-music venue Hang-Ár It was only in 2015-16 that Rákóczi, Infrequent regional buses run through with a garden. The nearby Éva Panzió opens late. Round the corner on Teleki named after the heroic Hungarian town. on Szantó utca operates along similar utca, the Pub also stocks leader from the early 1700s, were lines. harder-to-find beers, amid a décor of playing in the Somogy County division. For City Taxi Kaposvár, call +36 82 333 Union Jacks and red buses. A TV at the A swift rise up may yet be followed by 333. At a focal location on Széchenyi tér, the back shows matches. an equally rapid fall. four-star Dorottya was the main hotel Bed in town when it opened as the Turul in On main Ady Endre utca, cool coffee Bearings (Ft3,500-Ft4,000/€10.15-€11.60) takes English-friendly Tourinform Kaposvár 1911. Completely renovated a century hangout Eleven serves cult brew Budapest Airport is 220km (137 miles) around 2hrs 45mins, usually changing (tourinformkaposvar.hu) has useful later, it still exudes class. Behind, Hopjuliska, attracting a bright urban from Kaposvár. The train from Budapest at Dombóvár. hotel information. the mid-range Pálma Panzió was crowd.

liberoguide.com 16 HUNGARY 2019-20 Kaposvári Rákóczi www.liberoguide.com/kaposvari-rakoczi KAPOSVÁRI RÁKÓCZI Kaposvári Rákóczi

Competing in the top flight for ten years between 2004 and 2014, Kaposvári Rákóczi (rakoczifc.hu) immediately sank down two divisions before an almost equally rapid climb back to the NB I to start the 2019-20 Bosporus campaign as favourites for relegation.

Under coach László Prukner, who spent most of his playing career here at the Rákóczi Stadion, Kaposvár came reasonably close to claiming a first European place between 2006 and 2008 but his departure for Ferencváros in 2010 signalled a decline.

What Rákóczi could do today with István Avar. A rare striker with more Of its 7,000 capacity, 4,500 places goals than games for two countries, are seated. Away fans are placed Avar starred for Romania and Hungary behind the north goal, with their own between the wars, before coming to signposted entrance down a steep Kaposvár as player-coach in 1941. steps on main Pécsi utca. On the other ‘Ricsi’ remained connected with the side of the ground, the new clubhouse you exit onto Budai Nagy Antal/ Ft2,000/€5.80 everywhere except the main Fő utca from town, such as the club for decades afterwards, living stands beside rail tracks running Baross utca, then left up Hársfa utca. stand by the clubhouse, where it’s Oázis, have closed. just long enough to see Rákóczi reach from the sugar factory. A plaque has Infrequent bus No.8 runs three stops Ft3,000/€8.70. Availability is rarely an the top flight for the first time in 1975. been installed in memory of notable from the station to Hősök temploma issue – it’s been a while since local Fortunately, another has opened, the Rákóczi administators, coaches and just past the stadium. rivals Pécs were in the same division Bosporus, on the nearest corner to Promotion meant a rebuild of the players no longer with us. Along the as Kaposvár. the ground, Hársfa utca. It’s the kind stadium, set opposite the sugar opposite sideline, the main stand, the Tickets & shop of bar that takes its pool seriously, factory intrinsic to the club’s nagylelátó, is covered. Facilities all Tickets go on sale on the Friday before A few green-and-white souvenirs are with regular action around several formation in 1923. It gained extra round are fairly basic. the game, 4pm-6pm, from the outlet sold around the ground on match days. -sized tables, plus TV covered seats and a new clubhouse in by the Renault garage on Pécsi utca, sports, machines and table the early 2000s but, given the stadium Transport then from all the kiosks around the Bars football. Turkish Yeni raki can be found improvements across Hungary, this is The ground is a 10-15min walk from ground from 2hrs before kick-off. There’s very little around the ground, among the quality spirits, Hungarian a ground that feel distinctly modest. Kaposvár station, turning right as There’s a simple pricing system of particularly now that bars on and off Borsodi among the beers.

liberoguide.com 17 HUNGARY 2019-20 Kisvárda www.libero.guide.com/kisvarda

52 rooms. Also close and considerably KISVÁRDA cheaper, the Still Panzió across the road comprises seven rooms.

Further down main Városmajor utca, under the same ownership as the namesake pub/restaurant nearer the stadium, Madison Village towards town comprises a series of apartments in the Ft24,000/€70 range for two.

Right in town by the council offices, the distinctive, tower-shaped Bástya Panzió offers 20 basic, affordable rooms. By the station, the more modern, nine- room Rózsakő Panzió has a restaurant Kisvárda attached. Beer A short drive from the Ukrainian and With surprisingly few bars in the town Slovak borders, Kisvárda has been a centre, you have to seek out places proudly Hungarian market town for randomly spread out. Top of the list centuries but only recently a top-flight would be Western-themed Yellowstone football destination. The nearby city of on Rákóczi utca, party-centric and Nyíregyháza traditionally provided the showing matches. Off Várady István north-eastern Hungary’s representative With seats in the bright red colours Bearings To the left is the bus station – most utca, the Café Vya operates as a popular in NB I, but ‘Szpari’ last appeared in the of the club, this replaced the old pitch The nearest airport to Kisvárda regional buses parked there head smart café with a terrace, attached to top flight in 2014-15. in the grounds of Kisvárda’s ruined is Debrecen 100km (62 miles) through town. For the stadium, ask the the bowling alley. medieval castle, ‘Várkert’ meaning away. From the city, a direct train driver for the baths (fürdő, ’furr-dur’) Around that time, 60km away in Castle Gardens. to Kisvárda (Ft2,000/€5.80) takes – he’ll charge Ft250/€0.70 and not be More downbeat, the Gerendas on Kisvárda, poultry firm Master Good around 1hr 30mins. From Budapest happy with large notes. It’s otherwise a Tompos utca has a little side garden started backing the local football club. Set in an area of recreation north (Ft5,750/€16.70), the quickest train 10-15min walk into town, 20min to the under a fir tree. The nearby While results improved on the pitch, of town – heating is provided by the is around 4hrs, usually changing at stadium. Kocsma on Deák Ferenc utca is dowdier Kisvárda FC achieving promotion in thermal waters of the extensive Nyíregyháza. still, and attracts serious drinkers. 2018, the Hungarian government met public baths alongside – the Bed the spiralling costs of a new stadium, 3,000-capacity stadium features Kisvárda station is south-west of town, Beside the stadium, the Várda Sport Towards the station, two decent the Várkerti Stadion, built for Ft2.5 an equally new hotel alongside, to at the opposite end to the stadium. Taxis Hotel was designed with training and drinkeries currently await new owners: billion/€7.25 million and opened that add to the town’s limited stock of await incoming trains, otherwise call recreation in mind, the spa, pool, gym the Helikon at Dózsa György utca 52 and same year. accommodation. Kisvárda Taxi Joci (+36 30 300 0533). and pitches within easy reach of the the Sörkert at József Attila utca 125.

liberoguide.com 18 HUNGARY 2019-20 Kisvárda FC www.liberoguide.com/kisvarda-fc

In sectors C and D behind the FC KISVÁRDA goals, and outer A1/A5, B1/B5 on the sidelines, it’s Ft1,500/€4.35, Ft2,500/€7.25 for bigger visiting clubs. Closer to the halfway line, in A2/A4, B2/B4, it’s Ft2,000/€5.80 and Ft3,000/€8.70 – the best seats in A3 and B3, are Ft2,500/€7.25 and Ft3,500/€10.

A club shop wasn’t factored into the stadium plan but standard red-and- white merchandise is sold around the ground on match days.

Bars In business long before the new stadium opened, the Várkert Söröző on Vár utca is a real Várda hangout, with framed shirts to prove it.

Kisvárda FC On main Városmajor utca, a row of the government was persuaded station, through town and drop off at bars also serves the public baths When Kisvárda FC (kisvardafc.hu) to invest in a new stadium, costs Kisvárda, fürdő, on main Városmajor behind. The 4-4-2 Vendéglő does gained promotion to the NB I in 2018, spiralling as more features around it utca by the baths – the stadium is cheap food, Plage is the friendliest, few rated their chances of staying up. were added. behind the Várda Sport Hotel but with lovely photos of old Kisvárda True, the club had a gleaming new within a sports complex, so you may inside and TV sport on the terrace, stadium, the Várkerti Stadion, opened The ground itself is small, only 3,000 have to walk around to your sector. while the Göncz Büfé keeps bathers at the start of that campaign and capacity, home fans filling an average From town, it’s an 8-10min walk up going with hearty fare and cheap beer. replacing the quaint old ground in the 4-4-2 Vendéglő two-thirds of it in sector D behind the Vár utca from the roundabout near shadow of centuries-old castle ruins. goal, sector A in the main stand and B the Bástya Panzió. Further down main Városmajor utca, visiting groups from Hungary and facing it. Away supporters, up to 250 the smart, contemporary Madison But stay up they did, above two of nearby Ukraine and . of them, are allocated sectors C1- Tickets & shop Pub serves Heineken and Soproni, the most venerable clubs in the C3 behind the other goal, accessed Advance tickets are sold at the top-quality Hungarian pálinka brandy Hungarian game, Haladás and MTK. Two dates feature on the KFC badge: through gates VII and VIII. Tornacsarnok (Mon-Fri 8am-4pm), brands Rézangyal and Panyolai, and How long this little club can sustain is one, 1911, when the original Kisvárda the indoor sports hall at Flórian tér seriously decent food for the price, another matter, but the historic town SE were formed; the other, 2013, when Transport 6 in town, opposite the Várdaplex particularly meat. Guests from the of Kisvárda at least has a modern poultry firm Master Good backed and Reasonably regular regional buses cinema. On match days, ticket nearby Madison Village hotel also sports complex and hotel awaiting renamed the club. Soon afterwards, take 10min to run up from the windows operate at the stadium. saunter up here for breakfast.

liberoguide.com 19 HUNGARY 2019-20 Mezőkövesd www.liberoguide.com/mezokovesd MEZŐKÖVESD

Beer Mezőkövesd As well as a dearth of hotels, the centre of Mezőkövesd has precious few bars. Home of Hungary’s most improved The better ones are located along main provincial club in recent seasons, Mátyás Király út, particularly around Mezőkövesd has built its football Hősök tere, where the ivy-clad Pubi empire on water – thermal water. Caffe is a nice find. A two-room wooden When influential local MP Lajos Zsóry interior is complemented by a pleasant was drilling for oil on his estate in 1938, beer garden. Nearby, tucked down he struck gold in the form of natural Eötvös utca, the Bajor Söröző appeals healing waters. He duly built a complex to a younger crowd and opens late at of pools 3km west of Mezőkövesd, The Városi Stadion stands between takes 1hr 45mins – change at Füzesabony Ft2,500/€7.25. The nearest and arguably weekends. creating the considerable wherewithal the station and town centre, its main if you’ve just missed a direct one. best is Zsóry Zen and Spa, with a ten- that was later ploughed into the local building originally displaying the metre pool, salt chamber, Finnish and Further down Mátyás Király, where it football club, Mezőkövesd Zsóry. traditional matyó embroidery patterns Mezőkövesd station is south-west of infra saunas, and air-conditioned gym. meets Szent László tér, the Boomerang that Lajos Zsóry himself helped town a 15min walk away, the stadium is equally late and lively, staging Meanwhile, András Tállai, mayor receive heritage status back in 1924. halfway between. Infrequent regional Alongside, the Hajnal is equally Hungarian rock and rap acts, with of Mezőkövesd in the early 2000s, Mezőkövesd is the capital of the buses serve here and the spa hub of impressive, with its thermal pools. The enough room for a pool table, table held key governmental roles in the distinctive region of north-east Hungary, Zsóry. Matyó Taxi (+36 30 627 4073) are Balneo lays on special sauna sessions football and TV. ministries of economics, tax and Matyóföld, a fruitful area of research for based at the station. and all kinds of massage treatments. finance. As chairman of his local ethnographers. At the other, Zsóry end of the main road, club, he was instrumental in getting Bed The cheaper, sauna-equipped Ametyst is across the park from the stadium, the its stadium rebuilt between 2013 and Bearings All the hotels, some 20 of them, are set in pleasant grounds while the three- Millennium and Kispipa are standard 2016. The opening game was also the Budapest Airport is 138km (86 miles) in Zsóry, around the spa hub 3km star Nefelejcs offers healthy relaxation Hungarian restaurants happy to serve one that sealed the club’s promotion to from Mezőkövesd. The train from west of Mezőkövesd, accessed by bus inside and out with its Buddha Oázis and you beer and wine, and, if occasion NB I that June. Budapest Keleti station (Ft2,725/€8) Nos.5C/5D. A taxi should cost around Secret Garden. demands, host your wedding.

liberoguide.com 20 HUNGARY 2019-20 Mezőkövesd SE www.liberoguide.com/mezokovesd-se

Mezőkövesd SE SE MEZŐKÖVESD

With the right backing and dedicated coaching, Mezőkövesd Zsóry (mezokovesdzsory.hu) show how a team with relatively little tradition from a modest town can succeed in the Hungarian game.

The finance comes from the Zsóry spa complex outside Mezőkövesd, goal. Younger home fans occupy the the considerable political influence of north goal, the loudest supporters with club chairman András Tállai another Matyóland banners in C6, the nearest key factor. But all this would be in vain sector to the home end in the sideline without the coaching of Attila Kuttor, West Stand. The main East Stand is the former Hungarian international along Széchenyi utca, with the stadium defender, who played more NB I games bar and souvenir outlet at the back, than any other outfield player in his and two sets of ticket windows. 20-plus years as a player. Transport With Tamás Cseri the little midfield From Mezőkövesd station, head right general, Kuttor’s men surprised a along adjoining Állomás út then left number of teams in 2018-19, finishing at the end up Széchenyi utca. Allow just behind the European places. Major 7-8min. To and from town, cross the wins over local rivals, Diósgyőr, were park behind the home north end of the Shop Set into the back of the main stand on particularly satisfying. stadium. Yellow-and-blue scarves, flags and Széchenyi utca, the Lucky Pub provides T-shirts are sold at the Lucky Pub, the pretty much everything you could Derby games with their near Tickets main stadium bar on Széchenyi utca. want from a stadium bar in Hungary neighbours from Miskolc always On match days, the ticket windows on You probably won’t find replica shirts – Borsodi on draught, match action attract bumper crowds – 5,000 Széchenyi utca open 4hrs before kick- though – for these, email the club at on TV, tasty bar food, decent coffee, packed around the old ground in 2014 off. The most expensive seats, around [email protected]. plentiful spirits, a covered terrace before the new Városi Stadion (‘Town Ft3,000/€8.70, are in sectors A1-A7 in for smokers, betting for gamblers, Lucky Pub Stadium’) was built beside the same the main stand and C7-C10 along the Bars Mezőkövesd merchandise for souvenir site, opening in 2016 when ’Kövesd opposite sideline. Admission to the B On and off Mindszenty utca, near the hunters and a neat display of football regained NB I status. sectors behind the north, home, end lake by the stadium, two popular bars pennants (including poor old Lombard Within the ground, at the back of the is around Ft2,000/€5.80, depending are both handy pre-match, the VIP Pápa) to play guess-the-obscure- main stand nearest the home end, a little Capacity is now just over 4,000, with on the opposition, visiting supporters Söröző and Szöszi, each with a loyal Hungarian-club. Lively yet friendly outlet dispenses even more Borsodi for seats for 775 away fans in the south paying about the same. clientele. pre-match. Ft350/€1, and classic Hungarian snacks.

liberoguide.com 21 HUNGARY 2019-20 Miskolc www.liberoguide.com/miskolc

Miskolc MISKOLC

Hungary’s former industrial heartland is home to its most passionately supported football club outside Budapest. When the steelworks employed 18,000 workers, Miskolc was the country’s second city and its flagship club, Diósgyőr-Vasgyári Testgyakorlók Köre (DVTK), won major silverware and beat decent teams in Europe.

Set between the plant and the medieval castle in this once separate area west of On the main street, the Forint Söröző Miskolc, Diósgyőr, the old DVTK Stadion embraces urban history, displays DVTK looked a sorry state when the club shirts, shows games and offers quality collapsed in 2000. drinks on its prominent terrace. Across the street, friendly eatery Fapados is Revived by fans, with a few bumps along run by a couple who met at a DVTK- the way, the club scrambled back up Fradi game back when many of the to the top flight. In 2014, Diósgyőr even 1.5km east of the centre 10min away are none near the stadium but the exhibited photos were taken. More returned to Europe, the same year by MVK tram, the stadium 10min west frequent tram means that a city-centre retro DVTK shots cover the Déryné by that the contract was signed for a new of town on the same line. Tickets are location is convenient. the theatre – note the old stadium on football-only stadium. Ft300/€0.90 from the hut to the right as the tabletops. This is where everyone you exit the station or Ft400/€1.15 on At stops on the main street, old-school meets, regardless of age or income, Opened in 2018, the DVTK Stadion board. Miskolc ticket inspectors can be Pannonia by Városháza tér is mid-range with football shown over the bar. The shares the same Bükk forest backdrop feisty. and solid while the Promenade by Borsodi Söröző on the main street is as its predecessor – but this is an Villanyrendőr is a great budget option, another local touchstone, all dark wood, award-winning arena for the 21st Nonstop Taxi Miskolc (+36 46 333 333) comfortable, spacious rooms behind TV football and... Borsodi. century. Nearby bars, however, remain has special tariffs for nearby airports the Fapados eatery under the same quite wonderfully, authentically retro. otherwise tricky by public transport, management. Nearby Abszurd sees serious cocktail Košice Ft25,000/€72.50 and Debrecen drinking after dark while more upscale Bearings Ft27,000/€78. Behind the theatre, the Dolce Vita Beer 5centes tucked down a narrow passage Budapest Airport is 190km (118 miles) Panzió is similarly affordable while Apart from Budapest and, arguably, near the Villanyrendőr tram stop is from Miskolc. Hourly trains (journey Bed further up by the main post office, the Balaton in high season, Miskolc offers trying a bit too hard to be sophisticated time 2hrs, Ft4,000/€11.60) leave Keleti Hello Miskolc (hellomiskolc.hu) has a four-star Öreg Miskolcz harmonises old Hungary’s best night out. The beer of but screens big matches and, this being station. Miskolc Tiszai station is comprehensive hotel database. There and new, with a sauna and restaurant. necessity is local Borsodi, Miskolc, is as friendly as can be.

liberoguide.com 22 HUNGARY 2019-20 DVTK www.liberoguide.com/dvtk

Ft2,500/€7.25, the Napos oldal (I-S) Ft4,000/€11.60, the Nyugati oldal DVTK (C-F, V-Z) Ft5,500/€16. All prices are Ft1,000/€2.90 cheaper in advance.

Shop By the stadium bar on Andrássy út, the DVTK Shop sells cool T-shirts such as the father-and-son ‘együtt vagyunk’ (‘We’re together’) on match dot the vendégszektor T-U at the day. Current variation on red and opposite end. It’s also lively along the white for the home top is hoops. Napos oldal (’Sunny Side’) sectors J-R, while press and VIPs sit in Bars sectors A-B. This is the Nyugati oldal, Is the Kata the best football bar in the West Side (C-E, X-Z). Hungary? Probably. Its large bar space embraces DVTK history, a magnificent Transport retro collage splashed across the Tram No.1V runs directly from walls. Every style of moustache known main station Tisza pályaudvar every to man is sported on team line-ups. 7-15min, calling at key stops in It also keeps Miskolc hours, ie 5am- town Villanyrendőr and Városház tér midnight. Its busy terrace rubs bar (10min), to the DVTK Stadion (20min). tables with the dowdy Lila Büfé, a Last service back is 11.45pm. fading DVTK sported on the gables. Tickets Advance sales are from the stadium Across Andrássy út, by the stadium, of the original DVTK, that supporters the golden era, 1977 to 1980, when ticket office, usually Wed-Fri noon- the wonderful Bakterház is themed DVTK took matters into their own hands and Celtic, Dundee United, Rapid 6pm before the weekend game, and after a revered film with a railway revived the club. and Hajduk Split all ran aground here. from nationwide offices of IBUSZ, in setting made when DVTK were riding The nearby metalworks plant may Miskolc at Széchenyi utca 14. Online high. Note the photo of the old stadium have closed down a decade ago but Founded in the works canteen in The award-winning Diósgyőri Stadion through the club website (dvtk.eu) is from 1951, with a ribbon of mourning Diósgyőr-Vasgyári Testgyakorlók 1910, DVTK (dvtk.eu) moved to the that replaced it had fans in mind when Hungarian-only. attached. Borsodi is Ft300/€0.90 a pint, Köre (‘Diósgyőr Ironworks Exercise site of their current ground, the being planned. Intimate with 15,000 Ft180/€0.50 a half – everywhere. Group’) are reborn. A superb new DVTK Stadion, in the late 1930s. seats of fire red, this stadium of four On match days, windows open several stadium, European football, long-term Modelled on the Olympic Stadium in stands is enclosed, ultra sectors G-H hours before kick-off. It’s slightly pricier in the neat if bland top-flight status and a Hungarian cup Berlin, it was adapted in the 1950s. (’Hay-rrra.... Dee-yosh-dzhurrrr!’) DVTK Söröző by club shop, with a final underscore the last 20 years. It Its signature separate, tilted stands behind the north goal nearest the bar Behind the goals with the serving window into the stadium, and was in 2000, following the bankruptcy witnessed great European nights in on main Andrássy út. Away supporters Miskolc in sectors G-H is TVs inside.

liberoguide.com 23 HUNGARY 2019-20 Paks www.liberoguide.com/paks

Paks PAKS

Think of Paks and you think of nuclear power. The town’s football team, Paksi FC, are the Atomcsapat, their logo somewhat ominously shaped like a coffin, with two dates given above and below: 1952, when the main club was founded, and 2006, when it gained promotion to NB I.

During the decades in between, Paks played mainly at county level, the town changing in the early 1980s from an agricultural backwater on the Danube to the site of Hungary’s only nuclear power plant.

The Atom Team, meanwhile, made NB II in 2001 and Europe ten years Further along by the Erzsébet Nagy later, games played at nearby Szálloda, the hotel’s Kávéház serves Székesfehérvár rather than the modest sought-after Belgian and German Fehérvári úti Stadion north of town. beers including Barbar on draught in a Across the main road it is named after, cosy interior equipped with a TV. opposite the cemetery alongside the ground, a cluster of traditional wine parallel to which the main road runs to brightened up since opening around Pál utca, the Anikó Vendégház offers Just behind the police station where cellars harks back to an earlier age, town a 10min walk away. The stadium the same time of the power plant but comfortable, affordable rooms in a Dózsa György út meets Hattyú utca, before Moscow money fuelled a major is 10min north. There’s little local its exterior screams ‘1970s’. Dating friendly family house. City 07 Söröző is a great little find, industry and the local football team transport, only infrequent regional back to the 1700s, four-star Erzsébet a cubbyhole of a bar decked out in were dragged out of the Tolna County buses that run through Paks, otherwise Nagy Szálloda, tucked in from the Beer retro beer ads, with just enough League and, briefly, into Europe. easily walkable. Local Füge taxis (+36 harbour, is the main hotel in town, with Several hostelries line main Dózsa room for a TV. 20 45 45 515) accept credit cards. 18 guestrooms, suites, spa, restaurant, György út, starting with the two-floor Bearings wine bar and café. Retro, displaying sepia photos of pre- If you’ve just landed or just leaving, the Budapest Airport is 135km (84 miles) Bed nuclear Paks. Diagonally opposite at Dolce Vita at the bus terminus serves north of Paks. An hourly Volánbusz bus Municipal site paks.hu has an Where residential Kurcz György utca No.18, the Diófa Borozó embodies Hungarian Borsodi on draught and leaves Budapest Népliget station for accommodation database. Nearest the meets Zsíros köz, the Familia operates authentic retro Hungary, old locals decent coffee while images of Fellini Paks (journey time 2hr, Ft2,200/€6.40). bus station on the main road of Dózsa as a restaurant with a handful of sinking cheap wine amid vintage and Mastroianni carry the theme. A TV Paks bus station is near the Danube, György út, the Duna Hotel has been guestrooms also on-site. Close by on Unicum posters and TV sport. over the bar shows games, too.

liberoguide.com 24 HUNGARY 2019-20 Paksi FC www.liberoguide.com/paksi-fc

The seven sectors in the covered main stand are priced according to proximity FC PAKSI to the halfway line, B1/B7 at Ft1,200- Ft1,400/€3.50-€4, B2/B6 Ft1,400- Ft1,600/€4-€4.65, B3/B5 Ft1,800- Ft2,000/€5.20-€5.80. Behind the goals is Ft1,200-Ft1,400/€3.50-€4.

Shop A little outlet operates to the north side of the main stand on match days, dispensing a modest selection of green- and-white merchandise.

Bars Wine cellars and press houses line both sides of Sárgödör tér parallel to attendances in NB I in 2018-19, not Fehérvári út opposite the cemetery. even breaking four figures. The nearest to the stadium, Mit Iszol? (‘What Are You Drinking?’) For all that, the bar is friendly, also sells beer, has tables outside in 2011. A creditable win over Tromsø admission is cheap and everything, and table football within. Across Paksi FC and home draw with Hearts meant that including a cluster of wine cellars, is a Fehérvári út, alongside the stadium, Paks were Hungary’s best-performing short walk away. the unnamed Borsodi bar attracts If basketball had the Dream Team, club in the Europa League that year, older locals around the counter, the Álomcsapat as Hungarians say, earning Böde a transfer to Ferencváros. Transport necking drinks a-plenty as kick-off then Paksi FC (paksifc.hu) are the Both he and Fiola starred in Hungary’s The stadium has its own Paks, approaches. Football in dangling Atomcsapat, the Nuclear Team. passionately followed Euro 2016 sportpálya bus stop by the ground but pennant and TV form provides Representing the town associated with campaign, and both share wall space services are so infrequent you may the backdrop to the animated the country’s only nuclear power plant, in the stadium bar in Paks, where Böde as well walk the 10min from town, up conversation. Paks hit a purple patch around the time returned in 2019. The other pin-up boy Kereszt utca which runs into Fehérvári two local boys from nearby Szekszárd, is striker Attila Tököli, whose goals kept út. One of Hungary’s better stadium prolific striker Dániel Böde and right Paks up after promotion in 2006, and Stadion consists of one covered main bars, the little PSE Büfé beneath back , came good. who won league titles with Dunaferr stand and open terraces behind each Tickets the main stand is equally busy and and Ferencváros. goal, away supporters allocated the The club sells at a modest discount equally friendly, draught Borsodi and Attracted to top-flight Paks rather than south end. An overall capacity of just online (paksifc.hu) but match-day Staropramen served along with basic the traditionally bigger team of Pécs, Too modest to stage those over 6,000 is divided into 3,200 seated, sales are easier for non-Hungarian Hungarian snacks as images of past Böde and Fiola helped their club claim European games, played at nearby 1,800 standing and 1,150 visiting speakers, from the ticket windows Paks stars gaze down from calendars a runners-up spot and European place Székesfehérvár, the Fehérvári úti supporters but Paks recorded the worst behind the main stand. and proud team line-ups.

liberoguide.com 25 HUNGARY 2019-20 Székesfehérvár www.liberoguide.com/szekesfehervar

On the city side of the station, the SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR mid-range Platán on Gyümölcs utca now offers a large recreational space while off main Berényi út in town, the Vadaszkürt punches above its two- star status. Further up the main road, the Magyar Király graces a 200-year- old mansion, guests granted access to a nearby pool and sauna. Behind, on Ady Endre utca, the Novotel is the city’s main business-friendly lodging.

Beer The historic centre is dotted with bars, starting with the arty Patria on focal Városház tér, with its large terrace and chic interior with a TV screen. Nearby Prága also shows sport but Krušovice Székesfehérvár beer is the main draw.

Székesfehérvár might be a name The Sörpatika Söröző down the little difficult to pronounce but one that sidestreet of Várkapu utca keeps late many recognise, Videoton, has hours and shows matches. In the same disappeared altogether, the local club street, the Várkocs Old Pub is more now called Fehérvár FC. The roll atmospheric, with outdoor seating. of honour continues though, recent Székesfehérvár didn’t witness top- Vidi’s most recent Euro run coincided to the city. City transport consists of local Popular nearby Pince also encourages champions three times and the last flight football until 1967-68, when with the opening of the MOL Aréna but buses. For a cab, call Fehérvár Taxi (+36 terrace drinking. Tucked down Rózsa Hungarian club to reach a European ‘Vasas’ were renamed Videoton after games with Chelsea, PAOK and BATE 22 222 222 or +36 22 343 343). utca, Ribillió attracts a cool crowd for final. the local electronics giant and the took place in Budapest. matches, on a big screen and over the original Sóstói Stadion was built. Bed table-football table. While fans still support ‘Vidi’, their Bearings Turizmus Székesfehérvár (turizmus. club has a new sponsor, MOL, It was there that Vidi hosted Real The nearest international airport szekesfehervar.hu) offers direct hotel Diagonally opposite the Magyar Hungary’s energy company. Vidi’s Madrid, Manchester United and Paris is Budapest, 100km (62 miles away). booking. The nearest hotel to the Király Hotel, the Salvator offers new stadium is the MOL Aréna Sóstó Saint-Germain on their UEFA Cup A train from either Déli or Kelenföld stadium is the comfortable, 46-room great Paulaner beer but little by way – construction cost Ft14 billion/€40 run of 1984-85, although away form station to Székesfehérvár takes 50min Szárcsa, on the main road of the same of TV sports. Towards the station, million. got them to the final. The Sóstói also (Ft1,500/€4.35). name, with a pool, sauna and restaurant. friendly terrace drinkery Beeráló on staged six full internationals, starting Also close but on the other side of the Megyeház utca numbers 16 taps of The main railway junction between with Hungary’s 3-2 win over Yugoslavia The stadium is a 10min walk from the train tracks, the Jancsár on Balatoni út, craft brews, plus it has a TV screen by Budapest and Lake Balaton, in 1974. main rail station, in the opposite direction converted into a motel in 2019. the bar.

liberoguide.com 26 HUNGARY 2019-20 Fehérvár FC www.liberoguide.com/fehervar-fc

on the day, €2,500/€7.25. Sideline end FEHÉRVÁR FC sectors C1/C5-C6 are €2,500/€7.25 or €3,500/€10.15. Seats over the halfway line in C2-C4 are Ft2,300/€6.65 or Ft3,300/€9.55. Admission increases by another Ft1,000/€2.90 for the visits of the three Budapest clubs.

Also open on match days, the large Vidi Shop by the main entrance stocks home tops of red-and-blue stripes, away ones of white with red-and-blue Transport piping. The Sóstói is walkable from the train station. Go to the back, turn right Bars and walk to the end of platform 1, During the 1984-85 UEFA Cup run, then cut through the car park. At the players met at the Pokol Pince, end you hit the main road, Széchenyi where coach Ferenc Kovács would utca. After the overpass, turn right at demonstrate tactics with matchsticks the roundabout. The stadium is right on the tablecloths. The restaurant still ahead. operates, though it’s a fair trek from the stadium – in fact, it’s so far south- Bus Nos.11 and 11A also serve the west on highway 7, it’s just over into Sóstói but it’s hardly worth it. Szabadbattyán, with its own bus stop.

Tickets & shop On Csikvári út facing the cemetery Over the counter, tickets are sold at by the ground, the Szöglet (‘Corner’) Vidi have usurped Debrecen’s position Capacity is 14,000, home supporters the stadium Vidi Shop (Mon-Fri 10am- is a little bar with a TV, billiards and Fehérvár FC as Hungary’s strongest provincial club. mainly lined along sideline sectors 1pm, 1.30pm-5.30pm), the main city pennants of Vidi’s European games over C1-C6, the hard-core ones in ticket office (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat the bar counter. Champions of Hungary in 2018, FC The MOL Aréna Sóstói has replaced designated RBD in Stand D behind the 9am-1pm) at Oskola utca 2. Online, Fehérvár (molfehervarfc.hu) represent the old Sóstói, which had witnessed south goal. Away fans are allocated print-at-home sales are organised By the Vidi Shop, the neat, simple the town of Székesfehérvár. Still Vidi’s famous UEFA Cup run to the corner section V between the north through the club (molfehervarfc. Söröző offers draught Dreher, Pilsner known by many as Videoton and their final in 1984-85, including a shoot- goal and sector C1, entrance through hu), plus a ticket office operates on Urquell and Floris Kriek, plus a own fans as ‘Vidi’, this former factory out win over Manchester United. gate IX. Stand D behind the north Csikvári út just before you reach the standard menu. TVs show match action. club gained global recognition when Ironically, for Vidi’s most recent major goal is generally left empty unless stadium on match days. associated with the local electrical firm European campaign of 2018, the there’s extra demand. VIPs and press Inside the ground, card-only kiosks and embarking on European runs. Now new stadium was just weeks before watch the game from main Stand A, Advance prices are cheaper across the serve Dreher Gold beer and wine linked to Hungarian energy giant MOL, opening. accessed via Csikvári út. board, behind the goals Ft1,500/€4.35 or, spritzers at Ft590/€1.70.

liberoguide.com 27 HUNGARY 2019-20 Zalaegerszeg www.liberoguide.com/zalaegerszeg

stadium is another 5-10min beyond ZALAEGERSZEG Zalaegerszeg the centre. Cabs await incoming trains – call Egerszeg Taxi on +36 92 321 062. Formed when the manufacturing town of Zalaegerszeg was thriving a century Bed ago, Zalaegerszegi Torna Egylet, ZTE English-friendly Zalaegerszeg (‘Ze-te’) to all, brought the Hungarian Turizmus (zalaegerszegturizmus.hu) title to south-west Hungary for the first has a hotel database. and only time in 2002. Months later, they brought glory, beating Manchester Close to the stadium on Széchenyi tér, United in the home leg of a Champions the Arany Bárány (‘Golden Sheep’) League qualifier, 1-0. was opened in the 1750s, gained its elegance in the 1890s, and its One late breakaway goal conveyed modernisation (and spa) from 2012 the name of Zalaegerszeg round the onwards. world – 12 letters today spelled out as a selfie spot in the main square, Away from town on the same main the few tourists who visit barely able road, Rákóczi Ferenc utca, still within to squeeze the whole word into the easy reach, the Véndiófa is a pleasant frame. pension and restaurant – round the corner, the cheaper, equally The stadium, the ZTE Aréna, eventually comfortable Kántor is run by a lovely built in 2017, stands a ten-minute walk couple. away, by the railway line that runs to Slovenia an hour or so away. Slovenia Behind Dísz tér in town, the Beck’s also provided the opposition when Corner Motel curves around a car Hungary staged a full international park, its rooftop bar/restaurant a alternative option of SaloonZoo, a cult ping-pong in the back room. Across here, a low-key friendly at the old ZTE joy. Towards the station, the Göcsej cellar bar on Kisfaludy utca. Kossuth utca, the Records Music Pub Stadion in 2008. Palatinus on leafy Baross liget believes that rock tunes and affordable comprises 11 comfortable rooms and a North of Dísz tér, Terra Incognita drinks can bring twentysomethings Bearings restaurant dating back to 1891. offers a prominent roof terrace lit together. It can. Budapest Airport is 195km (121 by moonlight, TV sport prominent. miles) from Zalaegerszeg. The regular Beer It towers over the slightly shady On main Rákóczi Ferenc utca, ZTE train from Budapest Déli station (Ft On main Dísz tér, ’gasztró bár’ Manhattan, also with a TV, attracting hangout Alibi is where young shavers 4,400/€12.75) takes 3hrs. Zalaegerszeg Díszpinty chalkes its current beers on locals made good, while behind it convene over Jack Daniel’s amid the station is south of the centre, a board, hangs a large TV screen in its at the Club Pop Up Underground reassuring green glow of match action. connected by the No.10 bus every 15- sleek interior and pumps out music on Európa tér, student-age drinkers Rows of empty JD bottles – was Keith 20min. It’s a 15min walk up, turning at weekends to encourage imbibing. sink draught Csíki beer amid cartoon Richards here? – share wall space with right as you leave the station. The From its terrace, you can see the murals, gawping at sport and playing ZTE, FTC and Rangers iconography.

liberoguide.com 28 HUNGARY 2019-20 Zalaegerszegi TE www.liberoguide.com/zalaegerszegi-te

main stand. Over-the-counter sales TE ZALAEGERSZEGI are cash-only. Hungarian-only online sales are through the club (ztefc.hu).

For special games – Debrecen, DVTK, Fehérvár, Ferencváros, Honvéd and Újpest – not only do prices rise but you must provide your name, birthplace and birthdate when you purchase.

It’s Ft900/€2.60, special games Ft1,700/€4.90 behind the goals in the Nyugati tribün or for away fans in Keleti, Ft1,200/€3.45, Ft1,950/€5.60 in the sideline Északi, Ft1,500/€4.30, are allocated seats in the Déli tribün, Ft2,500/€7.20 in Nyugati. the south stand along Október 6. tér, where you find the club shop and Standard blue-and-white souvenirs fill office. the tiny club shop (Fri 2pm-5pm, Sat 9am-noon) behind the main stand. Transport The stadium is a short walk up Bars Batthyány Lajos utca from the main The nearest bar in town before you junction in town. From the train turn up Batthyány Lajos utca towards Although ZTE celebrate their government and municipal money station, buses run to Zalaegerszeg the stadium is the smart Zalaco Zalaegerszegi TE centenary in 2020, that sliding tap- funded renovation to the ZTE Stadion bus station (journey time 5min) by the Bisztró on Kazinczy tér, an Italian- in from two metres the highlight, it but a complete rebuild didn’t happen junction. Five trains a day run from style café/eatery with a big blue Zalaegerszeg TE (ztefc.hu) enjoyed hasn’t exactly been 100 unbroken until 2017. Zalaegerszeg to Zalaegerszeg-Ola a tap of Paulaner on the bar counter. their 90 minutes of fame when the then years of football endeavour. Formed in 5-10min walk from the stadium. At the junction by the ground, the Hungarian champions beat Manchester 1920, vanished for two decades from The all-seater ZTE Aréna holds little Mokka on Budai Nagy Antal United in the Champions League, three 1939, playing as different works teams 11,000, the loudest home fans in Tickets & shop utca serves Borsodi and Kriek while months after winning the Hungarian from 1957, ZTE were a top-flight the Nyugati tribün behind the west Advance distribution is through the gamblers filling out their coupons on title for the first and only time in 2002. fixture from the early 1970s on. goal and Északi tribün along the Kvártélyház ticket outlet (Mon-Fri sunny terrace tables. That rainy, windy August night in north sideline, nearest the railway 9am-12.30pm, 1.30pm-5pm) on Budapest, a team featuring Beckham, The ZTE Stadion attracted its record line. Behind the east goal, away fans central Dísz tér, the windows at the At the ground, behind the east-side Giggs and Keane went down 1-0 thanks crowd of 22,000 for the visit of access the Vendég szektor in the stadium in the run-up to match day, Keleti tribün, the Zete Büfé provides to a goal 20 seconds from time by Újpest in 1972. Thirty years later, Keleti tribün through 4.Kapu nearest and from 9am on match day itself standard Hungarian beer to thirsty substitute Béla Koplárovics. immediately after that title win, the Zala Plaza mall. Press and VIPs from the windows either side of the supporters on match days.

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