Late Summer 2015 BILL LEA PHOTO PHOTO COURTESY CITY of GATLINBURG CITY of GATLINBURG PHOTO COURTESY

- ELIZABETH DUPREE PHOTO

Fun Ranger-led Walks & Talks—Pgs 11-14

The Official Newspaper of Great Smoky Mountains National Park p late summer 2015 BILL LEA PHOTO PHOTO COURTESY CITY OF GATLINBURG CITY OF GATLINBURG PHOTO COURTESY

Families love Great Smoky Mountains National Park for its variety of hiking trails. To find other great national parks, visit www.nps.gov. TURK’S CAP LILY Mountain folk nicknamed red squirrels “Boomers” because they chatter Head Out to “Find loud and long whenever they feel their territory is being invaded. Your Park” this Year The bright orange blossoms Smokies’ “Boomer” of this exceptionally tall inety-nine years ago the forests, parkways, rivers, Lives Up to its Name NNational Park Service urban parks, or those “crown wildflower burst forth in was created to defend Yellow- jewels” of the national park f you have ever encoun- hickory nuts, beech nuts, stone and other sites against system like Grand Canyon, August and September. It is Itered a red squirrel (aka acorns, insects, and seeds wildlife poachers and artifact Mesa Verde, Everglades, “Boomer”) in the Great from the cones of pine, hem- collectors who were hauling Arches, Yosemite, Olympic, most often seen at the Smoky Mountains, you have lock, spruce, and fir trees. Red away pieces of our national and Gettysburg. probably been scolded by squirrels satisfy their sweet parks and monuments by the You might be surprised higher elevations, especially a red squirrel in the Great tooth by gnawing into the wagon load. how many Smoky Mountains. The red branch of a sugar maple tree Today the beautiful at places like Clingmans squirrel is a highly vocal ani- and licking the sap. same Service places are mal as well as a very territori- A mushroom dangling protects over preserved by Dome Road and along al one. Perched on a tree limb from a tree limb is a sure sign 400 parks, sea- the NPS, even just beyond your reach, a red that a red squirrel has chosen shores, historic in your own Thomas Divide Trail. An squirrel will chatter at you in- that branch for mushroom sites, battle- backyard. cessantly, determined to make storage. This unusual behav- fields, trails, lakeshores, and Here are just a few of the sites oversized member of the you aware of your trespass on ior is actually good for forest other national treasures in within 100 miles of the Smok- its territory. health because it spreads such a way as to “leave them ies: lily family, it can stand up to With 100 species of native beneficial fungi. unimpaired for the enjoyment •Andrew Johnson Na- trees and nearly 800 square Red squirrels are found of future generations.” tional Historic Site seven feet tall. miles of verdant forest, Great mostly at the park’s mid and In preparation for the • Appalachian National Smoky Mountains National higher elevations, especial- 100th birthday of the National Scenic Trail Park is the perfect habitat for ly in the Canadian Zone Park Service, the agency is en- •Big South Fork National an arboreal species like the spruce-fir forest. Unlike gray couraging everyone to “Find River and Recreation Area red squirrel. Almost every- squirrels, red squirrels are a Your Park.” Public lands • Blue Ridge Parkway thing a red squirrel needs can northern species that reaches belong to everyone, and this • Carl Sandburg Home be found among the limbs the southern edge of their is the perfect opportunity to National Historic Site and branches of a tree. Their range just south of the Smok- explore new places, wheth- • Obed Wild & Scenic preferred foods in this forest ies in the highlands of South er they are historic sites, River. buffet include tree buds, Carolina. smokies trip planner to order maps and guides: www.SmokiesInformation.org

accommodations pets in the park

Le Conte Lodge (accessible by Pets are allowed in frontcoun-

BILL LEA PHOTO trail only) provides the only try campgrounds and beside lodging in the park. Call (865) roads as long as they are 429-5704. restrained at all times. Pets For information on lodg- are not allowed on park trails, smokies guide ing outside the park: except for the Gatlinburg Bryson City 1-800-867-9246 and Oconaluftee River trails. Smokies Guide is produced Cherokee 1-800-438-1601 Dogs on these trails must be Fontana 1-800-849-2258 leashed. five times per year by Great Gatlinburg 1-800-267-7088 Smoky Mountains Asso- Maggie Valley 1-800-624-4431 facility rentals ciation and Great Smoky Pigeon Forge 1-800-251-9100 Mountains National Park. Sevierville 1-888-766-5948 The historic Appalachian Clubhouse and Spence Cabin Publication dates are roughly Townsend 1-800-525-6834 at Elkmont are now accepting as follows: reservations for day-use rentals. Picnic pavillions are also SPRING: March 15 available for $10-$20 per day SUMMER: June 1 at Collins Creek, Cosby, Deep LATE SUMMER August 10 Creek, Greenbrier, Metcalf Bottoms, and Twin Creeks. AUTUMN: September 15 Abrams Creek and Balsam Mountain campgrounds are open this year. To make a reservation, call MARY ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY WINTER: December 1 camping in the national park 1-877-444-6777 or visit www. recreation.gov. Contributing Editor The National Park Service The list below shows Steve Kemp maintains developed camp- number of sites, elevations, special events grounds at nine locations in fees, approximate 2015 opera- NPS Coordinator the park. There are no show- tion dates, and maximum RV September 5 (1-3 p.m.) Elizabeth Dupree ers or hookups other than lengths. Dates are subject to Back Porch Music Jam at Oco- Editorial Board circuits for special medical change. Visit www.nps.gov/ naluftee Visitor Center Karen Ballentine uses at Cades Cove, Elkmont, grsm for current information. Coralie Bloom and Smokemont. ABRAMS CREEK 16 sites, September 19 Mountain Life Festival at Lynda Doucette Campsites at Elkmont, elev. 1,125’, $14, open May 22- Bicycle morning in Cades Cove Smokemont, Cataloochee, Oct. 13, 12’ trailers Oconaluftee Visitor Center Kristine Johnson Cosby, and Cades Cove BALSAM MOUNTAIN 46 Terry Maddox may be reserved. For reser- sites, elev. 5,310’, $14, open bicycling December 12 Mike Maslona vations call 1-877-444-6777 May 22-Oct. 13, 30’ RVs Most park roads are too Festival of Christmas Past at or contact www.recreation. BIG CREEK 12 sites, elev. narrow and heavily traveled Sugarlands Visitor Center Contributors gov. Sites may be reserved 1,700’, $14, open April 10-Oct. by automobiles for safe or picnic areas Joey Heath, Lisa Horstman, up to six months in advance. 31, tents only enjoyable bicycling. However, Reservations are required at CADES COVE 159 sites, elev. Karen Key, Rose Houk Cades Cove Loop Road is Please see pages 8-9 for lo- Cataloochee Campground. 1,807’, $17-$20, open year- an exception. This 11-mile, cations of picnic areas. All pic- Other park campgrounds are round, 35’-40’ RVs one-way, paved road pro- nic areas have charcoal grills © 2015 Great Smoky first-come, first-serve. CATALOOCHEE 27 sites, vides bicyclists with excellent for cooking. Mountains Association Site occupancy is limited elev. 2,610’, $20, open opportunities for viewing to six people and two vehicles April 3-Oct. 31, reservations wildlife and historic sites. visitor centers GSMA (a trailer = 1 vehicle). The required, 31’ RVs Helmets are required for maximum stay is 14 days. COSBY 157 sites, elev. 2,459’, August: Oconaluftee & Sug- P.O. Box 130 persons age 16 and under and Special camping sites for $14, April 10-Oct. 31, 25’ RVs are strongly recommended for arlands: 8-7:30; Clingmans Gatlinburg, TN 37738 large groups are available sea- DEEP CREEK 92 sites, elev. all bicyclists. Dome: 10-6:30, Cades Cove: [email protected] sonally at Big Creek, Cades 1,800’, $17, open April 10-Oct. From May 6-Sept. 23, 9-7:30. September: Oconaluft- Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, 31, 26’ RVs on Wednesday and Satur- ee & Sugarlands: 8-6:30; Deep Creek, Elkmont, and ELKMONT 220 sites, elev. day mornings from sunrise Clingmans Dome: 10-6, Cades Smokemont. Group sites must 2,150’, $17-$23, open March to 10:00 a.m., only bicycles Cove: 9-6:30. be reserved. Call 1-877-444- 13-Nov. 28, 32’-35’ RVs and pedestrians are allowed other services 6777 or contact www.recre- LOOK ROCK Closed on Cades Cove Loop Road. ation.gov. Group sites may SMOKEMONT 142 sites, elev. Bicycles may be rented at the There are no gas stations, be reserved up to one year in 2,198’, $17-$20, open year- Cades Cove Campground showers, or restaurants in the advance. round, 35’-40’ RVs store. national park.

2 v smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 park information for additional information, visit www.nps.gov/grsm

Gatlinburg, TN elev. 1,462’ Mt. Le Conte elev. 6,593’

Avg. High low Precip. Avg. High low Precip. DRIVING Jan. 49° 27° 4.0” 36° 18° 6.7” DISTANCES &

Feb. 53° 28° 4.1” 37° 19° 5.6” ESTIMATED PHOTO JIM MOWBRAY March 62° 35° 5.5” 44° 25° 7.0” TIMES April 71° 42° 4.5” 52° 31° 6.7” May 77° 50° 5.7” 58° 39° 8.0” June 82° 58° 5.8” 64° 47° 8.7” Cherokee, NC to: July 85° 62° 6.3” 67° 50° 9.0” Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) Aug. 84° 61° 5.3” 67° 49° 7.6” Cades Cove: 57 miles (2 hours) Sept. 79° 55° 4.7” 62° 44° 7.2” Newfound Gap: 18 miles Oct. 70° 43° 2.9” 55° 35° 4.7” (½ hour) Nov. 60° 34° 3.4” 46° 27° 6.8” Clingmans Dome: Dec. 51° 28° 4.6” 38° 20° 6.4” 25 miles (¾ hour) The above temperature and precipitation averages are based on data for Cataloochee: 39 miles the last 20 years. Temperatures are in degrees fahrenheit. An average of (1½ hours) over 88” of precipitation falls on the higher elevations of the Smokies. Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour) Primitive backcountry shelters like this one at Double Springs Gap are On Mt. Le Conte, an average of 82.8” of snow falls per year. located along the Appalachian Trail and near the summit of Mt. Le Conte. Reservations are required for all campers in the backcountry. horse riding Gatlinburg, TN to: Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) Backcountry Camping in the Great Smokies Horseback riding is generally Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) available from early March Newfound Gap: 16 miles Camping at a backcountry 436-1297. through November. Rates are campsite or shelter can be an 3. Make your reservation (½ hour) $30 per hour. Most stables exciting adventure for per- through the backcountry have maximum rider weight Clingmans Dome: sons properly equipped and office at Sugarlands Visi- MARY ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY limits of 225 or 250 pounds 23 miles (¾ hour) informed. To facilitate this ac- tor Center (by phone or in and age restrictions for chil- Cataloochee: 65 miles (2 hours) tivity, the National Park Ser- person) or online at www. dren. Please call the stables Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles vice maintains over 800 miles smokiespermits.nps.gov. below or stop at a visitor cen- (¼ hour) of trails and more than 100 Reservations and permits ter for detailed information. backcountry campsites and are required for all overnight Deep Creek: shelters throughout the park. stays in the backcountry. Cades Cove (865) 448-9009 48 miles (1½ hours) One of the greatest challenges The cost is $4 per person per cadescovestables.com for backcountry campers is night. Reservations may be Smokemont (828) 497-2373 Townsend, TN to: deciding where to go. Here made up to 30 days in ad- smokemontridingstables.com Fishing for brook trout is now Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour) are some tools to help. vance. Smoky Mtn. (865) 436-5634 allowed in all park streams. Newfound Gap: 34 miles 1. Go online to view the Rangers will need to smokymountainridingstables. park’s official trail map rescue over 100 people in the (1¼ hours) com fishing (www.nps.gov/grsm/plan- backcountry this year. If you Sugarlands (865) 436-3535 Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour) yourvisit/maps.htm), which don’t want to be one of them: Fishing is permitted year- sugarlandsridingstables.com Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours) shows all park trails, camp- • Ditch the sandals. Sturdy round in the park, but a Hayrides and carriage Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour) sites, and shelters. Park rules hiking boots are the best way to Tennessee or North Carolina rides ($12 per person) are and regulations are also listed prevent a lower leg injury. fishing license is required. Cataloochee: available from Cades Cove here. If you wish, you can • Know when the sun sets. Either state license is valid 87 miles (2¼ hours) Riding Stable. Wagon rides purchase the printed version Many hikes turn into rescues throughout the park and no ($10 per person) are offered at of the trail map for $1 by stop- because people get caught out trout stamp is required. A Smokemont. Souvenir photos, ping at any park visitor center on trails after dark without flash- special permit is required for tee-shirts, hats, and ice may or calling (865) 436-7318 x226 lights or headlamps. the Cherokee Reservation and be available. Soft drink vend- or shopping online at www. • Know your limits. Don’t plan Gatlinburg. Licenses are avail- ing is available. SmokiesInformation.org. a 15-mile hike unless you are in able in nearby towns. Fishing The park service operates 2. Call or stop by the park’s spectacular physical condition with bait is prohibited. horse camps at Cades Cove, backcountry office, which and have done such hikes in A free fishing map with a Big Creek, Cataloochee, and is open every day from 8:00 mountain terrain recently. complete list of all park fish- Round Bottom. Call 877-444- a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The office is • Prepare for the weather. ing regulations is available at 6777 or visit www.Recreation. located in Sugarlands Visitor These mountains are so green visitor centers. gov for reservations. Center, two miles south of because it rains a whole lot here. Gatlinburg on U.S. 441. (865) Always carry rain gear.

smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 v 3 great sights to see A dozen must-see places in the Great Smoky Mountains KENT CAVE PHOTO KENT CAVE

WHERE TO BEAT THE CROWDS

Road Closed If you want to beat the summer crowds, try some The observation tower atop the of these off-the-beaten-path Smokies highest peak, 6,643’. destinations.

Waterrock Knob 9. Look Rock walking trail 1. clingmans dome and tower. Great views, just off the Foothills Park- A paved, but very steep, 0.5 way West, 18 miles from mile trail leads to an obser- Townsend, TN. vation tower that offers 360° views of the Great Smoky of Gatlinburg, TN on U.S. 441. The Deep Creek area features 10. Cataloochee Valley. Mountains and beyond. To get Highlights include flora and a campground, picnic area, This remote area is accessi- there: turn off Newfound Gap fauna exhibits, a 20-minute mountain stream, and miles of ble only by narrow, winding film in the surround-sound hiking trails. Around 2 miles Road 0.1 mile south of New- BILL LEA PHOTO secondary roads. But when theater, an information desk, found Gap and follow the of walking will acquaint you you arrive, there are elk to and bookstore. Several short 7-mile-long Clingmans Dome with beautiful Deep Creek and watch, historic buildings Road to the large parking area nature trails also begin at the three pretty waterfalls (Juney center, as do ranger-led walks to explore, and plenty of at the end. A visitor center is Whank, Tom Branch, and and talks. Open every day trails to walk. 39 miles from located along the trail to the Indian Creek). The trails to the except Christmas. Cherokee; 65 miles from tower. waterfalls start from the large Gatlinburg. The road to Clingmans 4. water-powered parking area at the end of Dome is closed from Decem- Deep Creek Road (across the 11. Cosby Campground, ber 1 through March 31 due to grist mills creek from Deep Creek Camp- Picnic Area, and hiking weather. ground). The area is located trails. The campground rare- 2. andrews bald Two historic, water-powered The Davis-Queen house at the about 3 miles from downtown ly fills, and there are short grist mills operate from 9-5 Mountain Farm Museum. Bryson City, NC. and long trails to waterfalls, daily, grinding corn into corn views, and Mt. Cammerer “Balds” are mountaintop meal. Cable Mill sits in Cades 6. oconaluftee 8. Mt. Le Conte fire tower. The campground meadows of mysterious ori- Cove (halfway around the is 20 miles from Gatlinburg, gin. Andrews offers panoram- one-way loop road). Mingus museums The Alum Cave Trail to Mt. Le TN. ic mountain views in favor- Mill is 2 miles north of Cher- Conte and LeConte Lodge will able weather. The 3.6 mile okee, NC on U.S. 441 (New- This history buff’s paradise be closed Mondays-Thursdays 12. Fontana Dam and Lake. roundtrip hike to Andrews found Gap Road). Corn meal now offers free indoor and Bald is along Forney Ridge for trail repairs much of this A TVA visitor center and is available for purchase. outdoor museums. It also Trail and starts from the end summer and fall. However, tours highlight the highest features old-time breeds of of Clingmans Dome parking 5. newfound gap there are plenty of alternatives dam in the East. Fontana area. The trail leads through livestock (seasonally) and for hikers to this popular peak. Marina offers boat rentals high elevation spruce-fir forest an heirloom garden and row The Boulevard Trail starts and shuttles for access to with evergreen trees and un- This gap is a low point in the crops. The new visitor center from Newfound Gap and runs remote, historic areas of the usual flora and fauna. mountain range and strad- and mountain farm museum 8.1 miles to LeConte Lodge. park like Hazel Creek and dles the boundary of North are located on U.S. 441 (New- Bull Head and Rainbow Falls Eagle Creek. 3. sugarlands visitor Carolina and Tennessee. From found Gap Road), 2 miles trails begin from Cherokee Or- center here one can enjoy spectacular north of Cherokee, NC. Open chard (near downtown Gatlin- views into both states and take every day except Christmas. burg) and are 6.9 and 6.7 miles a short stroll along the famous respectively. From the Green- It’s fun, it’s free, and it’s easy Appalachian Trail. There are to find. Sugarlands Visitor 7. deep creek brier area, Brushy Mountain also restrooms and the historic Center is located 2 miles south and Trillium Gap trails lead Rockefeller Memorial. waterfalls 9.1 miles to the summit.

4 d smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 park news Great Smoky Mountains National Park protects over 800 square miles of land National Park Service New Firewood Regulation Will Help News Briefs Protect Forests from Alien Invaders Researcher Studies Impact of Sounds to devastate over 40 species of hardwood trees native to the park. New infestations IS PEACE AND QUIET as important to national park visi-

BILL LEA PHOTO threaten our forests with tors as clean water and clear air? Are the sounds of singing widespread tree mortality birds, bugling elk, and rushing mountain streams part of your that could degrade wildlife memorable park experience? Researcher Scott McFarland will

USDA - APHIS-PPQ be in the Smokies this summer monitoring some of the noisiest 4700 RIVER ROAD RIVERDALE, MD 20737 and quietest areas of our park. His data will help park officials Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis) FEDERAL COOPERATIVE shape future management actions with the value of natural DOMESTIC PLANT QUARANTINE ESTABLISHMENT or C.A.#: sounds and quiet in mind. To learn more, visit www.nature. HT Date of Issue ______nps.gov/sound/

Alum Cave Trail Closed Mondays-Thursdays habitat, biodiversity, and scenic views. Using firewood THE VERY POPULAR Alum Cave Trail to Alum Cave that has been heat treated eliminates the threat. Bluffs and Mt. Le Conte will be closed from Monday morn- National parks through- ings through Thursday evenings (excluding federal holidays) out the Appalachian region through November 19 this year. Work will then resume on a Campers can collect dead and down wood in the park or purchase certi- have taken action to limit the similar schedule next year. The closure will allow volunteers fied firewood at the larger campgrounds or stores outside the park. spread of insect pests in fire- and the park’s Trails Forever Crew to repair portions of the reat Smoky Mountains addition, visitors may still wood, including the banning pathway damaged by landslides and washouts. The five-mile GNational Park officials collect dead and down wood of imported firewood. For the long trail will remain open Fridays-Sundays throughout the have enacted regulations in the park for campfires. past three years the Smokies year. Alternative trails to Mt. Le Conte include The Boulevard, that will help protect park “The threat of these new has prohibited the importa- Brushy Mountain, Trillium Gap, Rainbow Falls, and Bull Head. forests by restricting the type pests coming into our for- tion of firewood from areas of firewood brought into the ests, both in the park and quarantined by the USDA park. Beginning this spring, regionally, compels us to do Inspection Service. Park Adds $806 Million to Local Economy only heat-treated firewood all we can to reduce the risk Park rangers have been that is bundled and displays to our forests,” said Depu- working over the past year A NEW REPORT SHOWS THAT 10,099,276 VISITORS a certification stamp by the ty Superintendent Clayton with numerous partner to Great Smoky Mountains National Park in 2014 spent USDA or a state department Jordan. “While a ban on the organizations to mitigate the $806,719,900 in communities near the park. That spending of agriculture will be allowed in park campgrounds. supported 12,759 jobs in the local area. These insects from Asia and Europe have Heat-treated firewood “After a record setting year in 2014, we are pleased is now for sale from conces- the potential to devastate over 40 species of Great Smoky Mountains National Park continues to provide sioners in many of the park not only an incredible resource for visitors to explore and campgrounds as well as hardwood trees native to the Smokies. enjoy, but also serves as a driving economic force in the local from private businesses in community,” said Superintendent Cassius Cash. For more in- the communities around the importation of non-treated risks associated with move- formation: www.nature.nps.gov/socialscience/economics.cfm park. Certified heat-treated firewood will not entirely halt ment of firewood, including a public education campaign firewood is packaged in 0.75 the spread of forest pests and cu-ft. bundles clearly display- diseases, it will greatly slow it with campground programs Electric Vehicle Charging Stations Coming ing a certification stamp. down. This allows us time to and billboards. The park also The wood is a high-quali- develop and implement new hosted public meetings and LATER THIS YEAR, the Smokies will be the first nation- ty hardwood product that has treatment strategies.” developed an informational al park in the country to offer DC fast charging stations for been heated for 60 minutes at Non-native, tree-killing handout that was provided to electric vehicles. Thanks to a grant from the Department of En- 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The insects and diseases can all Smokies campers inviting public comments. ergy, partnerships with the Clean Cities groups, and a donation wood lights easily, burns well unknowingly be introduced for campfires, is safe to cook through firewood transported For more information from Nissan, the park will have charging stations at Sugarlands over, and is already available from infested areas. A variety about firewood and forest and and Oconaluftee visitor centers for the public to quickly reat over 85 locations near the of destructive pests lay eggs pests in the park, please visit charge their electric cars. For more information, visit www. park that can be viewed on or stowaway in firewood. the park website at http:// nps.gov/grsm. an interactive map at www. These insects from Asia and www.nps.gov/grsm/plan- nature.org/firewoodmap. In Europe have the potential yourvisit/firewood-alert.htm.

smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 p 5 smokies history “When Summer’s in the Meadow” Grazing livestock on the Grassy Balds by Rose Houk

In the days before park establish- for some strays. Meeting some ment, farmers took their cattle, other men, they completely sheep, hogs, and other livestock forgot about the cattle and to the natural meadows in the feeding on the native mountain commenced hunting. It was Smokies high country to fatten oat grass and enjoying the a good day’s harvest: nearly and escape the heat. pleasant breezes and lack of a dozen wild turkey, a buck country was a seasonal ritual. bugs at 5,000 feet elevation. It deer, one bear, a groundhog, Shelton, who started herding or at least a century before Come April or early May, word was heaven on earth for a cow. raccoons, several squirrels, and as a teenager with Granville the Great Smokies became rippled through surrounding Men hired on as herders and a grouse. Calhoun. aF national park, livestock were towns and valleys that it was charged a nominal sum per Seymour Calhoun helped Come the first of September, driven up onto the grassy balds time to ready the livestock head. Dan Myers, Fonze Cable, his father herd. They ran their it was time for “the gathering” every summer to fatten on the for their journey. To tell one Granville Calhoun, George own cattle and those of others or roundup—all the cattle flavorful forage. Herders kept owner’s animals from another, Tipton, and Tom Sparks were at the same time, he said, and sheep had to be collected, watch over cattle, sheep, hogs, they nipped distinctive notches among the best-known. Some “anywhere from five to seven counted, separated according and a few horses and mules, or impressed tattoos into the herders went back and forth to or eight hundred head” from to ownership, and readied and in the fall they rounded ears. Most of the cattle and the balds to tend the animals, Clingmans Dome west for for the trip back down the up all the animals and brought sheep also had bells around while others lived up there all about 16 miles to Spence Field. mountains. This was the only them down to market. their necks. As many as 50 summer in cabins they built Lightning was a real threat count that was done, said Asa This tradition of grazing families mingled their livestock beside springs. Spence Cabin to animals standing out on the Sparks, but it was an important goes back at least to the early for the long migration. By the and Hall Cabin were notable. open balds. Randolph Shields one because this was when 1800s, and possibly even earlier. time all were assembled, there All these structures are gone said his family received word the herder discovered if any Native Americans may have would be several hundred head now, but photographs show that lightning had killed most of animals in his charge were grazed animals on the balds— of cattle—steers, heifers, cows, them as small log cabins of one their sheep at Ekaneetlee Gap. lost or missing. If any were historians say the Cherokee some blackface, whiteface, or two rooms, with a fireplace His grandmother took everyone unaccounted for, he had to go held communal grazing lands, and good old mountain and simple furnishings. The up, and they pulled the wool off find them. Randolph Shields and leased pastures to farmers mixed-breeds. Add in sheep, herder would keep a loyal dog, the carcasses because it was too said he and Kermit Caughron to range their cattle as well. hogs, horses and mules—and and maybe a cat, for company. valuable to waste. combed the thick-wooded And it’s certain that the earliest the usual noisy entourage of They had a few visitors too, as Bears could be a problem, hollows of the Twenty-Mile white settlers saw the value barking dogs and shouting and hunters and hikers stopped in mostly for calves and sheep, area for three days just to find of that grazing land and put it whistling drovers—and it was along the way. but in pre-park days the bear three missing cows. to use. With their Scotch-Irish quite the procession. Some herders cleared population was much sparser But by the 1930s, people had heritage, they found it fairly Herds headed for Spence a garden patch and grew than it is today. If a herder begun to place a different value easy to adapt their old-country, and Russell fields went up to potatoes and cabbage to did hear of a marauding bear, on the Great Smoky Mountains. upland grazing methods to the crest by way of the Bote supplement the standard fare of though, he’d form a hunting The range was about to become the new environment of the Mountain Road. Those bound cornbread, fatback, and beans. party and go get it. a new national park. Grazing, Smokies. Because of the large for Gregory or Parson took the And nearly every one of them Poisonous plants, especially and other uses considered number of livestock sent to the Cooper and Rich Mountain hunted wild game, to vary the mountain laurel, or “ivy,” were incompatible with the park, highlands, places like Spence roads into Cades Cove, and monotonous diet and probably to be avoided. The cattle wore would no longer be allowed. The Field, Andrews Bald, and continued along Forge Creek to help pass the long hours. muzzles of leather bark, or wire last holdout was John Oliver, Gregory Bald were kept grassy or the Fork Ridge Trail. After One nice fall day, Granville to prevent their nibbling laurel who took some of his cattle up and free of trees. reaching the top, the animals Calhoun and his father-in-law, along the trail. “It’d kill them” on the balds above Cades Cove Grazing livestock in the high were let loose to wander at will, Crate Hall, went out searching if they ate it, said Uncle Jim for the last time in 1936.

6 d smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 hit the trail Day hiking in the Smokies is a fun way for families to escape the car and enjoy the great outdoors Great Hikes for Families

1 Sugarlands Valley DAVID LUTTRELL PHOTO LUTTRELL DAVID Nature Trail (0.5 mile) 2 Fighting Creek Nature Trail (1.0 mile) 3 Elkmont Nature Trail (0.8 mile) 4 Cosby Nature Trail (0.75 mile) 5 Cove Hardwood Nature Trail (0.75 mile) 6 Spruce-fir Nature Trail (0.5 mile) 7 Clingmans Dome Trail (1.0 mile)

ith over 800 miles of gorgeous hiking trails to Get Your Kids Hiking! Wchoose from, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a wonderland for families who want to escape from This summer, family hiking expert and author of the car and busy roadways and experience the peace and Get Your Kids Hiking, Jeff Alt, teams up with Great Smoky Mountains National Park rangers to lead kids beauty of the Smokies. Hiking is not only great for your and accompanying adults on a short hike loaded health, it gives families the opportunity for bonding and with hands-on family hiking tips and ways to explore shared adventures that will be remembered for a lifetime. the outdoors. Learn how a few simple techniques and some basic equipment can turn any walk in Perhaps the best way for Other family favorite day the woods into a safe, fun-filled adventure. Come families with younger children hikes include: Don’t forget to pick up a Hike prepared for a 1 hour easy walk (less than one mile). to hike the Smokies is on one the Smokies—FOR FAMILIES Programs are open to children of all ages. Children of the park’s self-guiding nature The Three Waterfalls Loop. log book to keep track of your must be accompanied by an adult/caregiver. trails shown on the map above. Starting at the trailhead past hikes and earn cool stickers Each offers an inexpensive Deep Creek Campground and and pins for the miles you brochure and numbered posts Picnic areas, this 2.4 mile mod- • Saturday, June 20, 10:30 a.m., Location: Sugarlands cover. Available for $1 at park that help you learn about some erate loop hike includes three Visitor Center visitor centers. of the things you see along the impressive waterfalls you can way. Many are loop trails. Mile- enjoy and photograph. • Saturday, July 18, 11:00 a.m. Location: Oconaluftee Scavenger Hike Adventures ages shown are round trip. Abrams Falls. Beginning Visitor Center are 13 hikes especially for Quiet Walkways are from the Cades Cove Loop Road, families who want to engage another great way to stretch this 5 mile roundtrip moderate • Saturday, October 10, 10:30 a.m. Location: their kids in searching for clues your legs and enjoy the Smokies hike climbs up and down over Sugarlands Visitor Center and hidden wonders as they backcountry. Look for signs ridges to reach beautiful Abrams walk park trails. Your kids will along park roadways to find Falls. look for such treasures as a these short gems. A few are loop Oconaluftee River Trail. wrecked steam engine, a tree trails, but most are not, so you This easy, 3-mile roundtrip hike marked by bear claws, remains just walk a ways, then return the starts at Oconaluftee Visitor of an old Model T, and historic way you came. Center and follows the river into log cabins. Available at park the town of Cherokee. Exhibit visitor centers or by visiting signs along the way tell Cherokee www.SmokiesInformation.org. Indian stories.

smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 d 7 GREAT SUMMER DRIVING TOURS AND VIEWS IN THE SMOKIES

To Knoxville To Newport To I-40 SEVIERVILLE 321 ay w Exit rk Pa 443 lls CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST 32 hi ot Cosby Fo Park View 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE A Pittman Mount Cammerer Center Cosby 321 Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail: 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Big 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Paved, narrow, 5.5 mile one-way road Creek 40 National Park il 321 o ers old-growth forest, ra T Information Center Ga n waterfalls, and historic buildings. bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il

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The transition from late summer into fall is a busy time in nature. CITY OF GATLINBURG PHOTO CITY OF GATLINBURG

ACORNS Twelve species of oaks are native to the Smoky Mountains, and in good “mast” years they produce a cornucopia of acorns. Many animals, including bears, squirrels, chipmunks, wild turkeys, and insects, depend on acorns to store up fat or food caches for winter.

MONARCH BUTTERFLY These bright orange butterflies are often seen in late summer, especially near meadows in places like Cades Cove. Because monarch caterpil- lars eat noxious milkweed plants, their adult forms are distasteful to birds and other would-be predators.

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN ASH This small tree is a northern species that is found at the highest elevations in the park. It is quite common around Clingmans Dome. During fall it sports bright red berries that bears and songbirds like to eat.

CHIPMUNKS These small mammals seem to be everywhere in fall. You have probably heard their warning “Chip!” when you hike past a boulder field. They store berries, seeds, nuts, and other foods in a variety of places: in hollow logs, under rocks, and in burrows. DOLL’S EYES In spring, the white baneberry plant displays pretty white flowers. In fall, these flowers become glossy white fruits with purplish dots. Some people think the fruits resemble the eyes of an old-fash- ioned doll.

10 d smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 things to do Programs and activities in Great Smoky Mountains National Park AUGUST 9 – SEPTEMBER 12, 2015

Park visitor centers are located at Cades Cove, Oconaluftee, Clingmans Dome, and Sugarlands. All offer information, exhibits, and publications related to the park and its resources.

 Accessible to persons using wheelchairs.

Families who hike in the Smokies canF now earn special stickers and collector pins as rewards. Pick up a “Hike the Smokies—For Families” booklet at any park visitor center to learn more.

CADES COVE Because of slow moving traffic it may take over an hour to drive the six miles from the start of Cades Cove Loop Road to programs at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill Historic Area. Nearly all ranger-guided programs are free of charge. Sundays Junior Ranger Program: Work & Play Tuesdays things in the park. Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill Cades Cove Evening Duration: 30 minutes area half way around the Loop Road Hayride Difficulty: Easy 1:00 p.m. Meet at Cades Cove Riding Stables  Experience what it was like to work on a farm and 4:30 p.m. work as a family to get chores done. Join a ranger for an evening open air hayride view- GATLINBURG/ Duration: 1 hour ing wildlife and discovering the diversity of life in Difficulty: Easy SUGARLANDS AREA  the Cove. Hayrides can fill up quickly, first-come, first-serve for this program. Duration: 2 hours Daily WILD by Design Fee: $14.00/person Cataract Falls Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill  Meet at Sugarlands Visitor Center area half way around the Loop Road 11:30 a.m. 2:30 p.m. Saturdays Join a ranger on a short walk to discover why the A talk and hands-on demonstration about the wild Junior Ranger: Explore Cades Cove Smokies is special in the summer. Topics may in- things in the park. Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill clude waterfalls, wildflowers, trees, history, sala- Duration: 30 minutes area, halfway around the Cades Cove Loop Road manders, and birds. Difficulty: Easy  1:00 p.m. Duration: 1 hour This interactive fun program will cover wildlife, Difficulty: Easy history, or other things that make Cades Cove awe- Mondays some. Sundays Mill Tour Duration: 45 minutes Junior Ranger: Bear-mania! Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill Difficulty: Easy Sugarlands Visitor Center area half way around the Loop Road  2:00 p.m. 11:30 a.m. & 12:30 a.m. So you think you know a lot about bears, huh? Well Join a ranger for a walk around the historic struc- WILD by Design join a ranger to test your knowledge and learn more tures at this site and learn about their function in the Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center area half about this “symbol of the Smokies.” Cades Cove community. way around the Cades Cove Loop Road Duration: 45 minutes Duration: 30 minutes 2:30 p.m.  Difficulty: Easy  A talk and hands-on demonstration about the wild

smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 v 11 SPECIAL PROGRAMS

Cades Cove Full Moon Hike Back Porch Old-Time Music Jam Mountain Life Festival Meet at the Orientation Shelter at the entrance Porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center Mountain Farm Museum adjacent to Oco- to the Cades Cove Loop Road 1:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. August 15, September naluftee Visitor Center 8:00 p.m. Saturday, August 29 5 & 19 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Saturday, September 19 Wear comfortable walking shoes. Children under Bring an acoustic instrument and join in on this Join park staff and volunteers as we celebrate the 14 must be accompanied by an adult. old-time jam. Or just sit back and enjoy the sights fall harvest. The Mountain Farm Museum will Duration: 2 hours and sounds as others play traditional Appala- be alive with history as demonstrators provide Difficulty: Easy, 2 mile walk chian music. visitors with a glimpse into the past as they make  F soap, apple cider, sorghum molasses, hominy, music and more.

Mondays Fridays ELKMONT/LITTLE A Wondrous Diversity of Life A Wondrous Diversity of Life GREENBRIER/METCALF Meet at Sugarlands Visitor Center Meet at Sugarlands Visitor Center 2:00 p.m. 2:00 p.m. BOTTOMS AREA Come learn more about reintroduced species, non-na- Come learn more about reintroduced species, tive insects, slimy salamanders or the secret lives of non-native insects, slimy salamanders or the secret Tuesdays bears. Topics vary, but you’re sure to be amazed by the lives of bears. Topics vary, but you’re sure to be Junior Ranger: School Days at Little Smokies biodiversity. amazed by the Smokies biodiversity. Greenbrier Duration: 45 minutes Duration: 45 minutes   Little Greenbrier Schoolhouse 11:00 a.m. & 2:00 p.m. Wednesdays Saturdays Go back in time to discover what it was like to live in a mountain community and go to school in a A Wondrous Diversity of Life Junior Ranger: Bear-mania! one-room schoolhouse. Fun for all ages, and great Meet at Sugarlands Visitor Center Sugarlands Visitor Center for Junior Rangers. Please arrive 15 minutes before 2:00 p.m. 2:00 p.m. program start; space is limited. Come learn more about reintroduced species, non-na- So you think you know a lot about bears, huh? Well Duration: 1 hour tive insects, slimy salamanders or the secret lives of join a ranger to test your knowledge and learn more Level: Easy bears. Topics vary, but you’re sure to be amazed by the about this “symbol of the Smokies.” Smokies biodiversity. Duration: 45 minutes Duration: 45 minutes   CLINGMANS DOME/ NEWFOUND GAP AREA

Mondays Islands in the Sky Viewing Area below Clingmans Dome Visitor Center 1:00 p.m. The high elevation forest of the Smokies is one of the most interesting and endangered ecosystems in the Eastern U.S. Come learn more about what makes this beautiful area unique. Duration: 45 minutes 

Tuesdays Islands in the Sky Viewing Area below Clingmans Dome Visitor Center 1:00 p.m. The high elevation forest of the Smokies is one of the most interesting and endangered ecosystems in the Eastern U.S. Come learn more about what makes this beautiful area unique. Duration: 45 minutes 

12 d smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 Mountain Farm Museum Adjacent to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center Anyone between the ages 13-130 Dawn to Dusk Walk down to the farm for a glimpse into the past. can now become a Self-guiding brochures and audio tours are always available and some days you may find demonstra- [NOT-SO- tions such as blacksmithing, hearth cooking, or gardening taking place. JUNIOR  ] Sundays Old Time Mountain Religion RANGER Smokemont Baptist Church (near Smokemont Campground entrance) 11:00 a.m. (except August 9 & September 6) Pick up your card today Join a Ranger and discover how old-time mountain at Sugarlands, Clingmans religion met spiritual, social, and community needs. Dome, Oconaluftee, or Duration: 45 minutes Cades Cove visitor centers! Cherokee Culture Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch Area Earn a very cool patch. 1:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. (except September 6) Join Cherokee friends to learn about Cherokee culture and history through demonstrations and storytelling. Duration: 2 hours Wednesdays OCONALUFTEE/ Islands in the Sky SMOKEMONT AREA Mondays Viewing Area below Clingmans Dome Visitor Eeek! Bats! Center Daily Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch 1:00 p.m. 2:00 p.m. Mingus Mill Demonstration The high elevation forest of the Smokies is one of Do they really suck blood? Do they really get caught Located a half-mile north of the Oconaluftee the most interesting and endangered ecosystems in in your hair? Are they friend or foe? Let the ranger Visitor Center on US 441 (Newfound Gap Road) the Eastern U.S. Come learn more about what makes tell you the truth about these amazing creatures and 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. this beautiful area unique. the enemy among them. Chat with a miller and feel the rumble of this histor- Duration: 45 minutes Duration: 45 minutes ic gristmill in action.  Difficulty: Easy   Thursdays On Top of Old Smoky Clingmans Dome Visitor Center 10:00 a.m. Join a Ranger on a hike to the highest peak in the park to take in 360° views and learn about the unique Canadian Zone environment. Discover some of the park’s most influential people, or hear stories behind the park’s place names. Topics vary, but you’re sure to be inspired by the stories behind the scenery. Duration: 1.5 hours Difficulty: Moderate

Saturdays On Top of Old Smoky Clingmans Dome Visitor Center 10:00 a.m. Join a Ranger on a hike to the highest peak in the park to take in 360° views and learn about the unique Canadian Zone environment. Discover some of the park’s most influential people, or hear stories behind the park’s place names. Topics vary, but you’re sure to be inspired by the stories behind the scenery. Duration: 1.5 hours Difficulty: Moderate

smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 d 13 Tuesdays Saturdays Black Bears in the Smokies Smoky Mountain Elk Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch Oconaluftee Visitor 2:00 p.m. Center Porch Area There’s danger everywhere, high and low but 11:00 a.m. always close, especially if you’re an American ursis. Fall is a great time for Learn how we are the greatest danger to the Ameri- viewing elk in rut and can black bear. to listen as they bugle. Duration: 45 minutes Discover how elk stay  warm in the winter. Feel the weight of the antlers Wednesdays they carry on their head. Welcome Home! A ranger will be available Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch to answer your questions Starting June 24 at 2:00 p.m. about elk and let you After more than a century of absence, the elk have know the best places in returned. Relax, have a seat on the visitor center the park to see and hear porch and hear the story of the return of the largest the elk. mammal to the Great Smoky Mountains. Duration: 30 minutes Duration: 45 minutes  

Thursdays Cherokee Culture Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch Area CATA- 1:00 – 3:00 p.m. LOOCHEE Join Cherokee friends to learn about Cherokee culture and history through demonstrations and VALLEY storytelling. Duration: 2 hours Sundays  Junior Ranger: Smoky Mountain Elk Fridays Palmer House, Junior Ranger: Feeding Time! Cataloochee Valley Mountain Farm Museum adjacent to the 5:30 p.m. Oconaluftee Visitor Center It’s all about connection 5:00 p.m. and balance in nature to Join park staff as they close up the Mountain Farm insure survival for elk and other species living together in an eco- Museum for the evening. You’ll even be able to help system. Learn about the history of the elk through “show and tell” feed the pigs and chickens! activities. Then stay and watch the elk come into in the fields! Duration: 30 minutes Duration: 45 minutes

14 d smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 SmokiesInformation.org if you are in love with... the Great Smoky Mountains... become a support the member friends Since Friends of Great Smoky 1953, JOHN DICKSON PHOTO Mountains National Park Great is a nonprofit organization Smoky that assists the National Park Moun- Service by raising funds and tains public awareness and pro- viding volunteers for park projects. Association has supported Since 1993, Friends has the educational, scientific, and historical efforts of the National Park Service through cash donations and in-kind services. In 2015 alone, the association plans to provide more than $1 million in as- sistance that includes saving hemlock trees, living history demonstrations, environmental education programs, sala- ries for backcountry patrols, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of the few national parks without an entrance fee. Most large raised over $34 million for and historic preservation. parks now charge $30 or more per vehicle. Without this supplemental income, it is difficult for the Smokies park projects and programs. to adequately protect wildlife, preserve historic areas, and provide educational opportunities. You can help the Association members These donations help: Smokies by using some of the money you saved at the entrance to support the park partners on this page. receive a number of benefits • protect elk, bear, brook to keep them informed about trout, and other wildlife special events in the park and field school gsmi at tremont summer camps • improve trails, campsites, issues affecting the Smokies: and backcountry shelters An exciting variety of adven- Great Smoky Mountains Great Smoky Mountains • Subscription to the semi-an- • support educational pro- tures await adults who long Institute at Tremont provides Institute at Tremont offers nual, full-color magazine grams for school children to get out and explore the residential environmental a variety of summer youth Smokies Life; • improve visitor facilities park accompanied by expert education programs in Great camps in the national park. • Digital access to the quar- • fund special educational guides. Programs are offered Smoky Mountains National Camps last from 6-11 days terly park newspaper, Smokies services like the park movie by the Smoky Mountain Field Park. Up to 5,000 students and cost from $555. Fees Guide, the association’s news- • preserve log cabins and School and include Mt. Le and adults annually attend include meals, lodging, and letter, The Bearpaw, and the other historic structures Conte overnights, wildlife workshops and school most equipment. monthly Cub Report Your donation can help workshops, edible plants, programs at the Institute. This year’s offerings in- • A 15-20% discount on make these projects a reali- wildflower photography, Tremont’s adult workshops clude: Discovery Camp (ages books, music, gifts, and other ty. Put a few coins or a few animal tracking, bird watch- include birding, backpacking, 9-12), Wilderness Adventure products sold at park visitor dollars in one of the dona- ing, salamanders, mountain environmental education, Trek, Girls in Science (ages centers and at our web store tion boxes located at visitor cooking, and more. One day naturalist weekends, teacher 12-15), and Teen High Adven- • Discounts up to 20% at centers, roadsides, and other programs start at as little as escapes, and photography. ture (ages 13-17). more than 400 national park locations around the park. $49. Contact: (865) 974-0150 or Contact (865) 448-6709 or Contact: (865) 448-6709, or bookstores across the country Buy the Smokies license plate smfs.utk.edu www.gsmit.org www.gsmit.org • Special discounts at area for your car (available in Ten- rental cabins, inns, restau- nessee and North Carolina). rants, shops, and attractions GSMA MEMBERS SIGN ME UP! However you choose to • And most importantly, “Get Rooted in the Smokies” Name(s) ______give, your donation will really the satisfaction of helping to help protect the Great Smoky ______preserve nature and history q Acorn (youth) Membership $15 Mountains for many years to in Great Smoky Mountains q Buckeye Annual Membership $35 Address ______come! National Park q Chestnut Annual Membership $100 ______Join today using the cou- q Dogwood Membership $200 Email (for Cub Report) ______Friends of the Smokies pon to the right or visit www. P.O. Box 1660 q Hemlock Lifetime Membership $1,000 Telephone # ______SmokiesInformation.org, or Kodak, TN 37764 payable in 5 installments Please include your check with this form. Mail to: call us at 1-888-898-9102 x222. (865) 932-4794 Memberships start at just $35. q Annual Business Membership $250 GSMA, P.O. Box 130, Gatlinburg, TN 37738. 1-888-898-9102 1-800-845-5665 per year. www.friendsofthesmokies.org

smokies guide, Late Summer 2015 v 15 visitor information for more information, www.nps.gov/grsm information emergencies hospitals regulations accessibility

General park information: Listed below are some num- Le Conte/Sevier County Picking or digging plants is Restrooms at all park visitor (865) 436-1200 bers to call for emergencies (865) 446-7000, Middle Creek prohibited in the park. centers (Cades Cove, Cling- www.nps.gov/grsm that arise after hours. Rd., Sevierville, TN. Persons feeding wildlife mans Dome, Oconaluftee, Backcountry information Park Headquarters Blount Memorial (865) 983- are subject to a $5,000 fine. and Sugarlands) are fully (865) 436-1297 (865) 436-9171 7211, U.S. 321, Maryville, TN. Pets are not permitted accessible. The Sugarlands www.smokiespermits.nps.gov Cherokee Police Haywood County (828) 456- on most park trails. Only the Valley all-access nature trail To order maps & guides (828) 497-4131 7311, Waynesville, NC. Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee is located on Newfound Gap (865) 436-7318 x226 Gatlinburg Police Swain County (828) 488-2155, River trails allow dogs on a Road just south of Sugarlands www.smokiesinformation.org (865) 436-5181 Bryson City, NC. leash. Visitor Center.

Exit 417