Shashlik Showdown
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MOSCOW JULY 2011 www.passportmagazine.ru Jay Close, The Cheese Man of Mosow Oblast Refl ections on the Rings around Moscow Ples the Best Sportivnaya, and Marina Tsvetayeva’s home Shashlik Showdown July_covers.indd 1 22.06.2011 12:48:01 July_covers.indd 2 22.06.2011 11:36:04 Contents 4. Previews 7. Education Briefing Ross Hunter 10. Night Clubs Interview with Don Craig and Doug Steele, Miguel Francis 4 12. History of Art Art Nouveau architecture in Russia, Olga Slobodkina 14. Comment Moscow’s future expansion, John Scope 15. Legal How Do Foreign Citizens Register by Place of Residence in Russia? Julia Yakhina 15 16. Travel The Crimea, Ian Mitchell Ples, Tania Shorova 20. A Day Out Cycling Part II, Ian Mitchell 22. The Way It Is The Cheese Man, John Harrison SAHDs, Jay Morley 20 Shashlik, John Harrison 28. Your Moscow Kievskaya/Sportivnaya, Katrina Marie 31. Real Estate Interview with Georgy Dzagurov, Vladimir Kozlev 34. Wine & Dining Listings 28 Uzbekistan Restaurant, John Harrison 37. Out & About Africa Day, Ross Hunter Irish Poetry, Ian Mitchell Children of Russia to Children of Japan, Marina Lukanina Happy day with RBCC, Ian Mitchell BBC At Sea, Ian Mitchell 37 42. Book Review Pawns in the Game by Daniel Johnson, Ian Mitchell 43. Puzzle Page, Ross Hunter 44. Family Pages The Bejewelled Newt (II), Nelen 46. View from There Bringing Barbeques to the Barbarians, Anth Ginn 44 48. Distribution List July 2011 3 Letter from the Publisher It is difficult to be serious about anything in these balmy few weeks before everybody leaves. As the temperatures soar, we just couldn’t get into anything very heavy, man, this month, apart from an article about being a single dad in Moscow by Jay Morely. Summertime, and the livin’ is easy, fish are jumpin’ and the shashlik are ready. If George Gershwin were to have lived in Moscow in June when he wrote Summertime he might well have woven shashlik into his famous song. Shasklik is in fact the theme of two articles in this issue, with a “shish kebab versus barbeque” shoot-out down at John Ortega’s hacienda, and a rather different view of barbeques from our British “voice on the cliffs”, Anth Ginn. For those who still haven’t firmed up their travel plans, or who are stuck here in July and August, we have a brace of travel articles: Ples by Tania Shorova, the Crimea by Ian Mitchell, and another cycling article by that indefatigable Scotsman around town who thinks cycling 65 kilometres is something you do before lunch. Katrina Marie introduces us to the delights of Sportivnaya area in Moscow, and Marina John Ortega Kashpar, into Marina Tsvetaeva’s house in Moscow. Owner and Publisher Moscow PE Leads Commemoration of 113th Anniversary of Philippine Independence and the 35th Anniversary of PH-Russia Diplomatic Relations 8 June 2011: The Philippine Embassy in Moscow celebrated the 113th Anniversary of the Declara- tion of Philippine Independence and the 35th Anniversary of the Establishment of Diplomatic Relations between the Philippines and Russia with a host of events on 3 June 2011 at the Glinka State Central Museum of Musical Culture. Philippine Ambassador to the Russian Federation The Embassy held an art exhibit of Filipino scenes Victor G. Garcia III officially opened the event and by visiting painter Nemi Miranda; a voice and piano underscored the significance of this milestone in Larionov at Chicago Prime recital by multi-awarded Soprano Rachelle Gero- Philippines-Russia bilateral ties, noting that the On the 8th of June, world hockey legend Igor Lari- dias and pianist Najib Ismail; an exhibit of Russian partnership was founded on friendship and the onov held a dinner for friends and anybody who Icon paintings by women expatriates of Moscow, promotion of shared interests for the benefit of wanted to meet him at Chicago prime. Ninety including Madam Connie Garcia; a cultural perfor- the peoples of the two countries. people attended. Chef Igor Korneev prepared a mance of song and dances led by Madam Connie, In his remarks, Deputy Foreign Minister Boro- five course dinner to go with Larionov’s wines, as the Philippine Embassy, and members of the Asia- davkin said that even though the Philippines he is also a winemaker as well as being an interna- Pacific Women’s Group; and a reception for close and Russia are only commemorating 35 years of tionally famous sportsman. Larionov signed every to 300 guests from the diplomatic community, the formal relations, earlier contacts between the two bottle of his wine purchased at the event, and the Russian Government, the business sector, and the countries existed. He added that the celebration evening, which went on until late in the night was Filipino community in Russia. of the 35th year of diplomatic relations presents a tremendous success. Congratulations to Igor Deputy Foreign Minister Alexei Borodavkin and a good opportunity to evaluate the progress Larionov and also to Chicago Prime. Here is the Ministry of Culture Counselor Leo Dzugaev graced that has been achieved so far and outline further menu that guests enjoyed for a very modest price. the event as the Embassy’s Guests of Honor. directions of mutually beneficial partnership. MENU Everyday Terrace Maisoncafe and Soho Rooms. Arugula Salad with Baby Calamari and Avocado Everyday Terrace is a new restaurant in Krasnaya The title Everyday Terrace speaks for itself - you Larionov Reserve. Viognier 2008. South Australia Presnya park, created by the same people who want to come back every day! Duck Liver, Confit Pate with Poached Pear and Fig brought you Imperia Lounge. Triple Overtime. Cabernet Franc 2005, Igor Lari- Everyday Terrace is a breath of fresh air, on hot onov, Napa, USA. Grilled Australian Lamb Chop Moscow days. with Gorgonzola and Portobello Risotto Brand Chef Bruno Marino has developed a spe- Triple Overtime Reserve. Shiraz 2002, Igor Lari- cial Mediterranean menu of fresh fish, seafood onov, Barossa, Australia Snake River Farm Kobe and meat on the coals, and a huge selection of Filet with Seared Foie Gras Hattrick. The Professor light snacks. 2005, Igor Larionov, Napa, USA Honey Walnut Elegant interior designed by the Moscow sum- Ricotta with Passion Fruit Jam and Kiwi Sauce mer veranda designer Konstantin Matrosov, Icewine, Igor Larionov well-known for restaurants on the draft NOA, Owner and Publisher Designer Book and Whisky Editor John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Julia Nozdracheva Ian Mitchell [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Editor Webmaster Nightlife editor John Harrison Alexey Timokhin Miguel Francis [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Sales Manager Accounting and Legal Services Contributors Valeria Astakhova ООО Юридическая Компания Alevtina Kalinina, Nelen, Ross Hunter, Marina Lukanina, [email protected] “Правовые Инновации”, Olga Slobodkina-Von Bromssen, Vladimir Kozlev, Anth Arts Editor 111024, г. Москва, пр-д завода “Серп и Молот”, д.5, стр.1, Ginn, Miguel Francis, Tania Shorova, Katrina Marie, Jay Alevtina Kalinina (495)223-10-62, Morley, Julia Yakhina, Anth Ginn, Alina Ganenko [email protected] Гл бухгалтер. Якубович Любовь Александровна Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. Passport occasionally uses material we believe has been 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible Office 013, 1st floor 77-25758. 14.09.2006 to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim 109316 Moscow, Russia Printed by BlitzPrint. Moscow representative office: ownership of something we have published, we will be 127051, Moscow, Petrovsky Boulevard, Dom 10. pleased to make a proper acknowledgment. Tel. +7 (495) 640-0508 Fax +7 (495) 620-0888 www.passportmagazine.ru 4 July 2011 Previews Buena Vista Social Club The Buena Vista Social Club is a band reunion of the musicians, The Buena Vis- named after the extremely popular Ha- ta Social Club has won a huge following vana club of the 1940s that served as a and become a sought-after group at fes- gathering place for musicians and danc- tivals the world over. Another treat for ers as well as a de facto laboratory for those who plan to attend the event at blending jazz, mambo, charanga, and the Hermitage Garden is the perfor- other influences to create a unique Cu- mance of Omara Portuondo, the lady ban style. It was closed down in 1959 fol- whose beautiful rendition of Hasta Siem- lowing the Cuban Revolution but was pre Comandante has become a symbol resurrected in the 1990s when Cuban of love in Latin American culture. Wim guitarist Juan de Marco Gonzales and Wenders, a famous German director shot American guitarist Ry Cooder gathered a film about the band with a starry per- Crocus City Hall musicians from the original club to re- formance at Carnegie Hall. Omara Portu- July 28 cord an eponymous album. Helped by ondo, who is often called the Cuban 19:00 Wim Wenders’ documentary about the Edith Piaf is back in Moscow this July. P Classical photography gallery The Classical Photography Gallery USA. In 1975, when he was a brother in a opened in Moscow this April. The new Christian order, he became interested in gallery concentrates on the history of photography. For Christopher this was a photography. The first exhibition that means of expressing the grace and beau- took place here was dedicated to Ansel ty of nature he saw around. In 1979 he Adams and the American school of pay- left the order to marry, but to continue sage photography. There is a display of his studies in photography. He still works photographic equipment from old times, with colour 8” x 10” transparencies, all still perfectly working.