THE BEST OF INDIA IN LONDON THE BEST OF INDIA IN LONDON

We love India and we love London. Our love for both has made us realise how many extraordinary Indian treasures can be found in London, without needing to travel across the world. These include everything from the finest ancient sculpture, Mughal jewellery, gemstones, textiles, food and fashion to contemporary events. To showcase these wonderful Indian links, we have compiled our own guide of what we consider to be the best of India in London. As with all things we love at Ampersand, we wanted to share our discoveries with others.

2017 also happens to be a special year commemorating the unique relationship between the UK and India, based around 70 years since India’s independence. To mark this anniversary, there will be even more Indian-related events than usual. Earlier this year saw the launch of the UK-India year of culture at Buckingham Palace, hosted by The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh.

So please join us on a magic carpet ride through the most enticing places to eat, drink, dance, watch and shop all things Hindustan in the most vibrant and cosmopolitan city in the world. We hope you enjoy exploring the wonders of India closer to home!

Finally, on Saturday 1st July, we will be organising a day to showcase the best of India in London, with an assortment of lectures, guided tours and Indian food. If you would like to know more about the day, please get in touch with Ellie ([email protected]).

Best wishes,

James Jayasundera Happenings in london

The Nehru Centre The artistic arm of the Indian High Commission on Mayfair's South Audley Street has both a cultured and slightly raffish air. An imposing Georgian townhouse with a lofty staircase, plasterwork and fine rooms, The Nehru Centre is an atmospheric backdrop to an ever-changing calendar of events throughout the year. Come here to experience classical kathak dancing, Sufi concerts, interfaith dialogues and art exhibitions by a range of names. Events are highly social and draw a colourful cast of characters, you may find yourself sat next to Prince Michael of Kent or a Tibetan monk. www.nehrucentre.org.uk

Zee Jaipur Literary Festival - A two-day taster of the famed literary festival takes place each May (20 – 21 May 2017) showcasing the best of South Asia’s literary heritage. The 2017 edition will take place at the iconic British Library. Come and hear talks, debates and discourses from some of the greatest thinkers of the subcontinent such as William Dalrymple and Shashi Tharoor. www.jaipurliteraturefestival.org/jlf-at-british-library/

London Design Festival – various locations across London The annual London Design Festival is a melting pot of designers, creatives and artists from all over the globe revealing their unique visions and products. India is represented by some of her brightest design lights. 2016 saw several exciting platforms launched including the ‘This is India’ pavilion which curated some of the hottest emerging and established designers. The inaugural London Design Biennale at Somerset House also featured a powerhouse of Indian design. Check website for 2017 dates and further information. www.londondesignfestival.com/

The Darjeeling Express Supper Club Asma Khan, a trained lawyer who gained experience running highly successful supper clubs in her Kensington home now organises pop-up events in Soho. Khan is an affable hostess with a passion for her native cuisine. The supper club menus encompass time-honoured (and scrumptious) royal recipes from North India plus Bengali dishes from Kolkata, where Khan was born and brought up. www.darjeeling-express.com

BFI - India On Film Festival In August, the BFI National Archive will release an unparalleled collection of 300 films, including the oldest surviving footage of India on film from 1899, as part of India on Film. The programme will kick off this month with Bollywood 2.0, a focus on films which have pushed the boundaries of conventional cinema. On 14th October, the 1928 silent film Shiraz, the love story of the 17th-century wife of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, who inspired the Taj Mahal, will premiere at The Barbican. The film will be accompanied by a live performance from the Indian composer and sitar player Anoushka Shankar. www.bfi.org.uk Indian homes in London

53 Holland Park W11 – former home of Maharaja Duleep Singh of Lahore This imposing villa in the leafy enclave of Holland Park was once the home of Maharaja Duleep Singh (1838-1893), romantically titled ‘the last ruler of Lahore’. An Blue Plaque commemorates his tenure. Singh was a devoted friend to Queen Victoria who treated him almost like a son and had him painted by Winterhalter, a leading portraitist (left). A fervent anglophile, the Maharajah converted from Sikhism to Christianity and led a lavish lifestyle, having six children and acquiring Elveden Hall in Suffolk where he is buried.

20 Baron’s Court Road, W14 - former home of Mahatma Gandhi The stuccoed entrances of this west London backwater echo with history. A plaque carrying the name of India’s most revered son can be found at No 20. During the 1890’s, whilst studying law at University College London, Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi - as he was then known – lived here in studious respectability. When he arrived in London he was just 19 years old and alongside his studies, relished dancing lessons and visiting a nearby church which is now the Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan, an Indian cultural and spiritual centre. The house is in the heart of the Baron’s Court Conservation Area and protected by its listed status.

18-19 Gardens - home of Lakshmi Mittal A titanic Victorian palace on London’s Kensington Palace Gardens, Numbers 18-19 was up until recently the most expensive house on the market. It is currently the home of Indian-born steel tycoon Lakshmi Mittal. The 18-bedroom property has a fascinating history and owners have included the Rothschild family. Nicknamed the Taj Mittal, this astonishing monument to wealth boasts a swimming pool with gem-encrusted pillars and a view onto Kensington Palace.

The Maharajah of Vijjanagram’s lost fountain, Hyde Park A whisper away from the busy hubbub of Marble Arch lies a serene green corner of Hyde Park. Careful observers can note a small stone plaque on the grass carrying the name of one of South India’s royal families and marking the site of one of London’s most intriguing lost fountains. The splendid gothic extravaganza was endowed by the equally splendidly-named HH the Hon Maharajah Meerza Vijjaram Gajapati Bahadoor of Vijjanagram. Gifted to London by the prince in 1867, the fountain stood proudly until 1964 when it was removed to an unknown location. Despite on-going searches, the fate of the fountain remains a mystery! Artefacts & treasures

Victoria & Albert Museum - The Nehru Gallery The V&A Museum is a swaggering collection of artefacts, textiles and art spanning our global history. The Nehru Gallery, named after India's first Prime Minister, is an elegantly curated room bursting with treasures from South Asia. Highlights include Tipu‘ Sultan’s Tiger, a macabre, almost life-sized wooden model which mauls a European soldier lying on his back made for the bloodthirsty ruler of Mysore. Take in the Anglo-Indian inlaid furniture, the contemplative Jain sculptures and the antique block print canvases, exuberantly floral predecessors of today's Anokhi and Good Earth fashions. The Indian Reserve collections can also be viewed by appointment. www.vam.ac.uk/collections/south-asia

The This iconic institution attracts seven million visitors a year and is home to some of the finest examples of Indian craftsmanship. The museum recently announced the November 2017 opening of the Joseph E Hotung Gallery of Oriental Antiquities. The rich collection will showcase new objects to complement the existing sculpture, ceramics, lacquer, jade and metalware. Discover beguiling Buddhist reliefs from Amaravati, central India, dating back 2,000 years and brought over by Victorians, alongside the Saraswati statue, depicting the Hindu goddess of knowledge, music and learning. www.britishmuseum.org

India Records Office - The British Library A fascinating resource for anyone interested in the British colonial history in South Asia - this archive covers the years 1600-1947. The East India Company were meticulous record keepers and the lives and deaths of thousands of Raj inhabitants are documented making it very useful for family history. Amongst the very large collection is a group of letters from Gandhi including correspondence to Adolf Hitler, in which Gandhi expresses admiration for Hitler's passion for his nation, but urges him to seek non-violent means to his ends. The India Records Office is a relatively unknown and invaluable gem within the famous library and well worth a visit. www.bl.uk

The Indian Orchid Festival at Kew An annual horticultural paradise inspired by Indian culture takes place each early spring at Kew Gardens’ Orchids Festival. The world-famous gardens are transformed by floral installations in the shape of elephants, peacocks, tigers and even a giant Indian flag. The quintessential sounds of bicycle bells, temple song and muezzin calls transport the visitor to the streets of Jaipur and Mumbai infused with the fragrance of hundreds of blooms. The atmosphere is enhanced by cheerfully decorated rickshaws and film screenings taking place inside the Princess of Wales Conservatory. Enjoy 'Orchids Lates' evenings with botanical cocktails, live performances of traditional Indian music and interactive workshops. A true London find! www.kew.org

Koh-i-noor Diamond, India’s most infamous diamond – the Koh-i-noor – is very much back on the map following the release of William Dalrymple and Anisha Anand’s book on this much-fabled gem. The glittering stone can be marvelled at the Tower of London’s Crown Jewels, where it takes pride of place at the centre of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother’s Crown. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london Galleries & auctions

Indar Pasricha Gallery A splash of aristocratic India on the edge of Hyde Park, Indar Pasricha Gallery is tiny but influential. Urbane owner Indar has been curating art for nearly three decades and has a faultless eye. Come here for 18th-century pastoral scenes of Calcutta and Lahore, sumptuous portraits of princely rulers and Anglo-Indian ivory inlaid furniture. The gallery is on the move and the new address will be posted on the website soon. www.indarpasricha.co.uk

Simon Ray Indian and Islamic Art Opposite Christie’s, this beautiful gallery is unfailingly bedecked with the finest South Asian textiles, artwork and jewellery alongside Persian ceramics and other treasures. Feast your eyes on Rajput miniatures, antique Bengali metalwork and Jaipur enamel necklaces gifted by Maharajas to dancing girls. A connoisseur’s delight. www.simonray.com

Amir Mohteshemi Located on Kensington Church Street, Amir Mohteshemi is a collector of Indian and Islamic art. The gallery specialises in pieces which cross cultural divides and exhibits paintings and miniatures, ceramics, metalwork, furniture, textiles and arms and armour. Look out for exhibitions at London’s Masterpiece, held each summer in the grounds of The Royal Hospital Chelsea.. www.amirmohtashemi.com

Christie’s South Asian Sales Leading auction house Christie’s regularly holds India-focused sales which feature an astonishing breadth of art and artefacts from the entire span of the subcontinent’s vast history. Recent sale highlights include a rare panel from a royal Mughal tent and south Indian ivory carvings. Contemporary art sales draw the biggest names on the market including Gaitonde and FN Souza. www.christies.co.uk

The Noble Sage Based in Belsize Park for the last decade, contemporary art space The Noble Sage is housed at the residence of Jana Manuelpillai, a noted collector and dealer in Indian, Sri Lankan and Pakistani modern art. Manuelpillai fosters emerging artists and curates a bold dash. We love the androgynous portraits on dyed cotton by Bengali Humanism Das among the colourful offerings. www.thenoblesage.com Artisans & merchants

Joss Graham Charismatic purveyor of South Asian objet d’art, Joss Graham has been based on Belgravia's Ecclestone street since 1980. His orientalist shop is a mecca for tribal art, kelims, 18th- century chintz's, elegant 'chik' blinds and paintings. We love the vintage tie-dyed turban fabrics and the princely cushions sporting silver and gold threadwork on antique velvets. www.jossgraham.com

Opium A true treasure trove and a vestige of bohemian Chelsea, Opium, owned by Tracy Kitching, is an exquisite outpost of India on the King’s Road. Find architectural pieces, statues, antiques and very beautiful jewellery – which Tracy designs herself in Jaipur. We love the mirrors fashioned from period haveli doorframes in joyful colours and the carved marble screens. www.opiumshop.co.uk

Irving & Morrison Designers Carolina Irving and Penny Morrison have teamed up to create an eclectic collection of textiles and soft furnishings inspired by glorious ikats, suzanis and block prints. Loved by personalities such as Matthew Williamson and Jemma Douro, Irving & Morrison have recently launched their collections on Chelsea's Langton Street. This the place to find statement cushions, chairs and lampshades with many of the fabrics made in India. www.irvingandmorrison.com

Tiipoi Studio A contemporary atelier dedicated to elevating utilitarian homewares, Tiipoi calls itself a ‘window into India’. Go for gleaming copper utensils, woven cushions and rugs in indigo, ivory and chalky brights derived from small-town Indian streets and sporting jaunty geometrics. Founder Spandana Gopal champions 'a common-sense attitude to consumption – a design ethos from India – where nothing is wasted.' www.tiipoi.com

Warris Vianni A highlight of Notting Hill's Golborne Road, Warris Vianni is a cool and collected fabric and haberdashery emporium of hand-spun cottons, subtly-hued silks, linens and paisleys. Come here to find cushions in kantha embroidery, silks and linens as well as vintage suzanis and 'phulkari’ throws. www.warrisvianni.com

Amrapali Named after an Indian courtesan considered the most beautiful woman in the world, Amrapali was founded in Jaipur but now has shops and stockists all over the world. Pieces combine influences from historic Indian tribal jewellery with contemporary Indian and Western glamour. Although favoured by celebrities the world over, Amrapali’s jewellery is very wearable. www.amrapalijewels.com

Varana Varana's first boutique, located on Dover Street, opened with a buzz on 10th May this year. Touted as India's first global luxury retail brand, the Mayfair branch is the first of several planned stores across the world. With a welcoming townhouse feel, Varana is the place to come for elegant and thoughtfully designed clothing, jewellery and scarfs. All pieces blend contemporary India and Western styles, with a strong emphasis on India's rich craft heritage. www.varanaworld.com hotels

The Ned Not exactly Indian but with very strong links to India! The City has gained an exciting new addition with the recent opening of hotly-anticipated hotel, The Ned. The Ned is located at 27 Poultry - an iconic building designed by Sir Edwin 'Ned' Lutyens, architect of, amongst other things, much of New Delhi and of whom the hotel is named after. The former bank will encompass a hotel, eight restaurants and members club with the 252-bedroom property designed on a vast scale, promising to be the most sought-after destination in the city, mixing contemporary design with authentic 1920's glamour. Dine in the old banking hall, from Italian at Cecconi's to the wood panelled steakhouse Lutyen's Grill and the Parisian-inspired Café Sou. Show-stopping event spaces will be available in the palatial Saloon, dominated by a crystal chandelier sourced from the historic Devonshire House and the 200-head Tapestry Room, named for the period tapestry wrapped around the upper walls, the largest of its kind in England when it was produced. The members club will sport a heated pool overlooking the panorama of the London skyline and an all- hours cocktail lounge housed in the original vaults. www.thened.com

Taj Buckingham Gate An all-suite property just minutes from Buckingham Palace, Taj 51 Buckingham Gate is perfect for families or long stays in the capital. Suites are so large that they feel like your own apartment in the central of London: each one has a fully-equipped kitchen, well-laid out rooms and plenty of privacy. Unlike home however, there are a large range of dining options on your doorstep; from Michelin-starred South West Indian Quilon (home to its own Division Bell), to the fun Bombay Brasserie. Taj’s Afternoon Teas are also impressive: Pastry Chef Nikhil Vyas has conjured up ‘English Classics, Reinvented’ themed teas, including Alice in Wonderland and Sherlock Holmes. www.taj51buckinghamgate.co.uk

The Lalit One of India’s largest hotel groups has recently opened an outpost in London: The LaLit London can be found tucked just behind Tower Bridge, just minutes from London Bridge, meaning that views showcase London’s ever-changing skyline of iconic buildings. The new hotel is housed in an charming 180 year old neo-Baroque building which was once home to St Olave’s Grammar School. Large in size but small in room count (only 70 rooms), this is the group’s foray into a boutique property where Indian culture – both old and new – blends with British charm. If you are freshly back from a holiday to India and suffering pangs of longing, this is the place to come for a bit of glitz and glamour! www.thelalit.com restaurants

Tamarind Michelin starriness lights up this sophisticated Mayfair restaurant. Soak up the beautiful dining room with its crisp linens and speckled mirrors while enjoying faultless service. The menu highlights include the lamb chops marinated in raw papaya and fennel and refined lobster masala. Hot off the press: Tamarind has just opened a sister restaurant in Soho, Tamarind Kitchen, which is garnering rave reviews.www.tamarindrestaurant.com

Gymkhana Voted the UK’s best restaurant, Gymkhana set the critics abuzz on opening and is not resting on its laurels - still serving glamour with a side of surprise. The Anglo-Indian elegance of the interior sets off the game-dominated cuisine by star chef Karam Sethi – this is a twist on colonial club fare at its most superior. We love the venison biryani and the most tender grouse this side of the Yorkshire moors. www.gymkhanalondon.com

Dishoom Dishoom is a delight that keeps on giving. One of London’s great success stories, it began life as an homage to the Bombay Parsi culture in Covent Garden and now has branches all over the city plus in Edinburgh. The feisty modern Indian menu is paired with zingy cocktails and a fresh, fun approach – Tom Parker Bowles praised Dishoom for making him ‘leave with a spring in my step rather than usual post-curry shuffle’. Come here for breakfast, lunch and dinner – this is less a restaurant, more a bountiful way of life. The company also does inspiring philanthropic work. www.dishoom.com

Chutney Mary Eyebrows were raised over this stalwart darling of the Royal Borough's move from Chelsea to St.James’ two years ago. Chutney Mary has weathered the storm in style and come out smelling of…the finest Mysore Tuberoses. The interior, with its artwork, shimmering crystal and soignée staff, was praised by the late, great, AA Gill as ‘the nicest dining room in the neighbourhood and dishes that use a brilliant cornucopia of masalas, seasonings and outré ingredients’. This is imaginative Indian cuisine at its best. One visit here will almost certainly be the beginning of a lifelong love affair. www.chutneymary.com

Benares If a nightingale sang in Berkeley Square today, it would surely be serenading the twice- Michelin starred chef and alchemist Atul Kocchar, arguably the uncrowned king of the Mayfair square. Benares is a contemporary, lily-clad triumph and a place to linger over lunch on a grey Sunday retreating into a more whimsical (and joyful) world. Classic British ingredients such as wood pigeon and salmon trout are skilfully paired with Indian flavours to create a soulful fusion menu – the ten-course tasting feast is a journey through Kocchar’s rare genius. www.benaresrestaurant.com Cocktail bars

Mint Leaf We remember the launch of restaurant and cocktail bar Mint Leaf to great fanfare in the heady early noughties and are pleased to report this fusion treasure, a stone’s throw from Piccadilly Circus, is still throwing shapes. Mint Leaf has improved with age and both its drinks menu and aura of grown-up fun continue to draw a devoted following. www.mintleaflondon.com

Anise Part of the renowned Cinnamon Kitchen but with a separate identity, Anise is a shaking little lounge bar in the Square Mile. Serving up just the right amount of kitsch along with contemporary sleek, this is a place to indulge in spicy cocktails, craft beers and imagine yourself in a hip Mumbai nightspot. www.anisebar.com

Talli Joe’s Tally ho to this place forthwith – imaginative tasting plates and wonderful cocktails mingle with a casual buzzing atmosphere in the heart of town. Conjuring up all the magic of the subcontinent, Talli Joe’s approach to mixology is bold and a touch Bollywood – turmeric -infused gin, raw mango purée, biriyani oil and lime, saffron syrup…dive in. www.tallijoes.com

Zander Bar Located in the Bank restaurant of luxury hotel Taj 51 Buckingham Gate, Zander features the longest bar in London. It is a perfect place to enjoy a pre-dinner or post-theatre drink exploring an innovative cocktail menu from neo-martinis to all the famous classics. www.taj51buckinghamgate.co.uk

Scarfe’s Bar, The Rosewood Hotel Take refuge from bustling High Holborn in this civilised oasis at the glamorous Rosewood Hotel. Picture perfect, with a roaring fire, deep velvet armchairs and shelves with a 1,000 books hand-picked by a Portobello antiques dealer, Scare’s Bar is a well-kept London secret. Contemporary cocktails and live music add to the atmosphere while lunchtime offers a delightful Indian-inspired menu. Choose from delights such as Jaffa Tiger Prawns and Flatbread as well as melting Kolkata style Salmon curry. Evening treats include Indian bar snacks with a British twist. www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/london/dining/Scarfes-Bar

Cinnamon Soho A boutique bar and restaurant a few steps from our favourite department store, Liberty, Cinnamon Soho, outpost of the Westminster dining legend, is a perfect post-shopping treat. The rustic decor, reminiscent of a Mumbai workman’s café, is pared- back and hip. The suave maitre d’ (an ex-GQ writer and author) will conjure up delicious sharing plates and potent tipples while entertaining you with witty anecdotes. The outside terrace on happening Kingly Street is the place for summer evening people watching. www.cinnamonsoho.com Day trips from London

Sezincote House, Moreton-in-Marsh Sezincote House is a 200-year-old Hindoo Mogul palace hidden deep in the Cotswolds, close to the market town of Moreton-in-Marsh. The exotic house, thought to be the only one of its kind in Europe, is set like a jewel in a romantic landscape of temples, grottoes, waterfalls and canals. The south front, complete with curving orangery and topped by a decorative dome, inspired John Betjeman’s poetic lines ‘Down the drive, under the early yellow leaves of oaks… the bridge, the waterfall, the Temple Pool and there they burst on us, the onion domes’. The grounds, by designer Humphrey Repton, have remained unchanged since the mid-19th century. Chance upon the little Indian pavilion and the charming Nandi bulls in the rambling gardens. www.sezincote.co.uk

Royal Pavilion, Brighton An orientalist fantasy perched on Brighton’s seaside promenade, the Royal Pavilion is a joyful relic from one of Britain’s most colourful monarchs. Completed in 1823 by George IV as a pleasure palace, the pavilion has been restored to its original splendour. The famously extravagant king, inspired by a visit to Sezincote House, commissioned architect John Nash to create a visual spectacle inspired by India and China. He filled it with exquisite wallpapers, furniture and objets d’art, many of which can be seen today. The royal confection was sold to the town by Queen Victoria in 1850. The historic Grand Saloon is currently under refurbishment and will reopen in the near future. www.brightonmuseums.org.uk/royalpavilion

Bowood House, Calne Bowood House is the magnificent family home of the Marquis of Lansdowne, descendant of a 19th-century viceroy of India. The house and gardens open between April and November. The staterooms include the Indiana collection displaying exotic gifts from various native princelings. Pieces include an ivory palace given to the viceroy’s teenage daughter by the Begum of Bhopal, while photographs of the family in India hang on the walls of the restaurant: the Viceroy’s portrait dominates the library of the Bowood Hotel on the estate. The pleasure grounds, which form part of Capability Brown's grand design of 1760, boast a glorious collection of trees and shrubs as well as one of the country’s earliest rhododendron gardens. www.bowood.org

Shah Jahan Mosque, Woking Britain’s oldest mosque, stranded in Surrey, built by a Hungarian Jew and funded by an Indian princess, is an eccentric delight. Not merely a suburban oddity, Shah Jahan Mosque was the centre of Islam in the UK until the 1960’s. Worshippers have included Jinnah, founder of modern-day Pakistan and Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia. There is a moving burial ground for Muslim soldiers here, whose bodies were brought from the makeshift hospital at the Royal Pavilion, Brighton during WW1. www.shahjahanmosque.org.uk

Splendours of the Subcontinent: A Prince’s Tour of India 1875-6 A selection of the finest Indian treasures from the will go on display in July 2017 at the New Walk Museum in Leicester. The exhibition will tell the story of the grand tour of the subcontinent made by the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) in the late 19th century. In October 1875, Queen Victoria’s eldest son set off on a four-month state visit encompassing today’s India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Nepal. Travelling by sea and land, the future Emperor met over 90 regional rulers and was presented with a trove of gifts. Treasures to be seen include dazzling turban ornaments from the Maharaja of Udaipur and a gold and diamond ink stand in the form of a state barge given during the prince’s visit to the holy city of Benares. The collection will be shown in London and Edinburgh in 2018. www.royalcollection.org.uk

Image credits

Slide 1 – Sculpture panel from Amaravati Stupa, British Museum, video still www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZ1Do-VawX8 Slide 4 The Maharaja Duleep Singh by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (1805-73), Royal Collection www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/403843/the-maharaja-duleep-singh-1838-93 Slide 5 Royal Pavilion, Brighton Museums www.brightonmuseums.org.uk/royalpavilion/history Slide 6 The Sanchi Torso, Victoria & Albert Museum www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/t/the-sanchi-torso Slide 7 Amir Mohtashemi Inventory March 2017, p56 www.amirmohtashemi.com/Publications-Amir-Mohtashemi-DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=24 Slide 8 Joss Graham, Eccleston Street www.jessicahemmings.com Slide 9 The Ned / Sydall Group www.sydellgroup.com/the-ned/london/hotel Slide 10 Gymkhana, Albemarle Street www.gymkhanalondon.com Slide 11 Anise Bar, Devonshire Square www.anisebar.com