Polanco, Are All Great Spaces Where Visitors Discover and Live Mexico City’S Urban Grandeur

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THE CONNOISSEUR’S GUIDE TO THE CITY’S BEST CULTURE, FOOD, SHOPPING AND NIGHTLIFE BY The connoisseur’s guide to the city's best culture, food, shopping and nightlife by Welcome to Mexico City

Because of their number, variety and splendor, it’s nearly impossible to get to every great attraction the city offers. A good idea is to explore the city by neighborhoods—neighborhoods filled with history and tradition as well as modernity and conveniences plus architecture, visual beauty and, of course, the human warmth that’s characteristic of a cosmopolitan, friendly, open and diverse metropolis. Visiting the Centro Histórico and its plaza centerpiece the Zócalo, for example, means wandering narrow streets awash in Aztec and colonial influences, a space whose museums, churches, historic sites, parks and monuments create a zone that is in fact one of the historical environments in Mexico the world knows best—in addition to being a unesco World Heritage Site. With its highly European feel, the Paseo de la Reforma—along a several-kilome- ters-long boulevard that stretches from the east to the west of the city, and featu- ring exceptional museums like the Museo de Antropología or the Papalote children’s museum as well as grand Chapultepec castle—or indeed, the Zona Rosa and toney Polanco, are all great spaces where visitors discover and live Mexico City’s urban grandeur. The south of the city incorporates Mexico’s National Autonomous University, Cuicuilco Pyramid, the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco and colonial neighborhoods such as Coyoacán and San Ángel, plus lots of museums throughout the area. Sophisticated Mexico City is all that and much more, as home to cultural events for every kind of visitor, whether it’s a top music venue, a traditional forum or alternative space for theatre, ballet and opera—among other arts. Numerous sports and traveling exhibitions are on offer every day as well. Visiting Mexico City also means reaching one of the planet’s most important business and enterprise capitals, endowed with superior infrastructure and connectivity that links it to the rest of Mexico and the world, supported by a varied and appealing hotel and entertainment offering amid a robust, buzzy business climate. StyleMap CDMX is an invitation to explore this and more, in the form of a pocket guide that leads to discovery on both first-time and repeat visits to Mexico City—the capital that’s also a world-class, all-encompassing urban experience.

Cordially,

Dr. Miguel Ángel Mancera Espinosa Mexico City Mayor Table of contents

06 Mexico City: a treasure waiting to be discovered

08 m uac mexico city’s zones 08 — Downtown / Historic Center 18 — Roma 28 — Condesa 36 — Reforma 44 — Polanco 54 — West 62 — South 70 — Other Outings

71 Maps Bus Rapid Transit Mexico City Subway MEXICO CITY: a Treasure Waiting to be Discovered In 1325, when the Aztecs set out to find a place to build their capital, they found the sign they were looking for: an eagle perched on a prickly pear tree devouring a snake. Improbable in itself, what was even stranger about this sight was that the ochimilco prickly pear tree was in the middle of a lake. This very specific X sign was a foretaste of what the city was to become over the Schedules Transport centuries: a place where weird and wonderful things happen, Breakfast is generally a light meal on The subway (metro) has 12 lines and a promised metropolis of sorts. the go, as is dinner. Most bars open at the bus rapid transit (metrobús) has midday, but you won’t see much action five (see central pages for information). There are still plenty of things to be discovered in Mexico’s until around 8 pm. The clubs (known as The same card is good for both and capital. As you explore its nooks and crannies, you’ll come “antros”) start heating up at midnight can be recharged at any metro or across all kinds of surprises, not unlike the image of the ea- and close in the early hours. Rush hour metrobús station. Another alternative is from 7 to 10 in the morning and is the Ecobici (ecobici.df.gob.mx), a gle and the snake. There are the more obvious places, like from 6 to 9 in the evening. The most public bicycle service that covers the the Historic Center and Xochimilco, where you can see part important meal of the day is lunch more touristy parts of the city. Day and of the original lake the city was built on, and then there are (between 2 and 4 pm). weekly passes are available. districts like Condesa, Roma, Cuauhtémoc and Juárez, whose Weather Practical Information early-twentieth-century residences today house bustling res- The weather in Mexico City can be www.mexicocity.gob.mx taurants and cool clubs, not to mention the city’s fabulous unpredictable —it’s been known to rain in January!— but, generally speaking, Emergency helplines museums and art galleries and its peculiar stores. temperatures vary from approximately Police: 066 This guide is a map to all the unlikely experiences to be 3 to15oC during the colder months Assistance for victims of criminal had in Mexico City and we are confident these finds will put (November through February), activities: 01 800 007 4533 averaging 20 to 28oC in the warmer Emergency services: you on the trail of many more. months (March through June). The rainy 5683 2222 season runs from July through October. Fire services: 5768 2532 Thunderstorms are most common in the Red Cross: afternoons, sometimes accompanied by 065, 5395 1111 hail, but you can find yourself caught in Tourist Information: a shower at any time of day. 01 800 008 9090

6 7 Downtown Museo N acional de A rte On foot Mexico City’s Historic Center is not just Start at the Zócalo, the main square where legend has the ruins of the impressive Aztec capital, it the Aztecs saw an eagle perched on a prickly pear tree devouring a snake — a sign they should build their colonial buildings and the city’s bustling capital there. On the northwest side of the square is the social and commercial life of the last Templo Mayor, the Aztecs’ principal ceremonial center. If you visit the Cathedral, you’ll notice its chandeliers 500 years. A decade ago, some of its lean to one side, revealing just how much the building has sunk over the years. On your left as you leave, is the buildings were renovated and today Palacio Nacional, once occupied by the viceroys of New house cultural centers, world-class Spain, boasts murals by Diego Rivera. Head south to Madero, a pedestrian street with stunning architecture. restaurants and bars. Pedestrian streets Of special interest are the Museo Nacional de Arte (in the square out front is Tolsá’s famous Caballito like Regina and Madero preserve that sculpture) and the old central post office, Palacio de inimitable air of yesteryear, yet invite the Correos, indisputably one of the city’s most beautiful buildings. Visit the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the Alameda unsuspecting visitor to rediscover a part Central, and finish at the Torre Latinoamericana, a tower of the city that refuses to grow old. that commands impressive views of the city center.

downtown 9 Luis Donaldo Colosio 16 Pedro Moreno 10 27 Honduras República de Nicaragua

Soto

Incas V Altuna ioleta República de Perú Fco. Javier Mina República de Perú Zaragoza Salgado República de Bolivia

Eje 1 Poniente Fco. Javier Mina Héroes

Zarco Esmeralda República de Colombia Pensador Mexicano Belisario Domínguez República deChile 8 PuenteSan Fernando de Alvarado ValerioTrujano Santa Veracruz Hidalgo República de Cuba Mariscal 23 República de Cuba Av. Hidalgo Bellas EjeCentral LázaroCárdenas Donceles Paseo de la Reforma Artes 24E 7 Colón Xicoténcatl

Allende Alameda Central República deArgentina 19 2 Allende Doctor Mora F Justo Sierra

Av. Juárez G Tacuba I República de Brasil

Av. Juárez Condesa 32 Ángela Peralta 25 14 Museo del Filomeno Mata Templo Mayor Motolinía 6 9

Palma

Isabel laCatólica D Iturbide Humboldt 11 5 de Mayo Azueta Bucareli H 22 20 12 Torre 18 Monte de Piedad B Latinoamericana 26 Francisco I. Madero Moneda 3 Independencia17 28 21 Balderas Gante 15 4 29 Zócalo

Revillagigedo Luis Moya 1 Palacio Juárez Artículo 123 A C Dolores 16 de Septiembre Nacional López 30 31

Bolívar 13 Victoria Corregidora E. Martínez Venustiano Carranza San Juan de Letrán Centro Histórico Ayuntamiento República de Uruguay A. Zócalo Correo Mayor B. Catedral Metropolitana 22 C. Palacio Nacional República de El Salvador Ernesto Pugibet D. Templo Mayor

Isabel laCatólica E. Museo Nacional de Arte 5 de Febrero 11 F. Palacio de Correos Vizcaínas 20 de Noviembre Mesones G. Palacio de Bellas Artes José María PinoSuárez Metro

Aranda López Delicias BuenTono Metrobús H. Torre Latinoamericana Regina 5

EjeCentral LázaroCárdenas Turibús

I. Alameda Central Aldaco

Bolívar Regina Salto del Agua Luis Moya

Arcos de Belén Hostería de Santo Domingo Roldán 37 Belisario Domínguez 70 y 72, Roldán 37, Centro; 5542 1951; Centro; 5526 5276. FB: Roldán 37. Yep, they serve chiles en nogada This erstwhile chili-pepper warehouse (stuffed chiles in nut sauce) year round, has been turned into a restaurant by and that’s made them famous. But you Rómulo Mendoza, great-grandson might want to try ranchera chicken of the original owners. Needless to breast (in creamy pasilla chile sauce), say, chili peppers are the stars of the bite-size, tostada-like tlacoyos, ant eggs menu. We recommend the chili in and maguey worms. The building it is in cream, the Veracruz-style chili (stuffed

A zul Histórico —from 1860 and groaning with history— with shrimp and smothered in melted is worth the visit alone. Manchego cheese) and the Acequia Restaurants El Cardenal Real, with cheese and vegetables. Palma 23, Centro; 5521 8815; Limosneros Azul Histórico restauranteelcardenal.com; Allende 3, Centro; 5521 5576; Bares Isabel la Católica 30, Centro; @ElCardenalMr; limosneros.com.mx; @limosnerosmx; 5521 3295; azul.rest; FB: Restaurante El Cardenal. FB: Limosneros. Bósforo @Azul Restaurantes; The classic choice for amazing By the same owners as Café de Luis Moya 31, Centro. FB: Azul Restaurantes. breakfasts (they bake the pastries Tacuba, this small, intimate Mexican What started out as an underground This leafy patio shelters a chill scene, right there) and lunch is a winner, restaurant (pre-Hispanic, actually) bar is now one of the city’s worst-kept where well-dressed types enjoy what too: seafood stew with cactus paddle, exudes sophisticated style. Get a little secrets, boasting over 40 types of comes from chef Ricardo Muñoz tongue tacos, veal filets. In season bit of everything after you kick off with artisan mescal and a fine selection of Zurita’s creative kitchen. You’ve got you’ll find huautzontle greens, maguey the perfect cricket chalupas. Round pre-Hispanic dishes. The lights are still to try the duck-mole buñuelos and cactus worms (!), nogada-style chile out the meal with a selection from the kept low, though, and the music is a the mamey-fruit pie, as well as the rellenos or tasty cod. A great place for great mescal list. great conversation starter. seasonal specials. Branch locations in real-deal business lunches or just to the Condesa and Ciudad Universitaria. taste a very traditional place.

Café de Tacuba El Mayor Foot-Tapping Bars in the Downtown Area Tacuba 28, Centro; 5518 4950; República de Argentina 17 (on the cafedetacuba.com.mx. roof of the Porrúa bookstore), Centro; Nowhere beats Mexico City’s Historic Center if you’re looking to strut your stuff Total old-school Mexico with a style 5704 7580; porrua.com/elmayor. on the dance floor. The fun begins at Salón Los Ángeles (Lerdo 206, between that has attracted diners, both local Traditional Mexican fare with a Flores Magón and Estrella, Guerrero; 5597 5181) with some live danzón, salsa and foreign, in search of classic contemporary twist in elegant and cumbia. Then it’s off to Balalaika Pluss (Eje Central 95, Doctores; 5578 Mexican fare for nearly a century surroundings. Spectrally poetic, with 4642; @balalaikapluss; FB: Balalaika Pluss) for some Afro-Cuban beats and —you can bet granny had some coffee wonderful views of the Templo Mayor, on to Barba Azul (Bolívar 291, Obrera; FB: Cabaret Barba Azul) for a raucous, here. Perfect for a late-afternoon hot the cathedral and surrounding tropical close to the night in the arms of one of the working girls who’ve been chocolate and a warm piece of pastry. colonial buildings. there almost as long as the paintings of blue women hanging on the walls.

12 downtown downtown 13 La Perla walls are graced by murals by Orozco República de Cuba 44, Centro; and Rivera and serve as canvases for 1997 7695. fascinating exhibitions. Admission is La Perla opened its doors in 1946 and free on Tuesdays. hasn’t changed much since. Its cabaret décor remains intact, from the dance Casa de El Hijo del Ahuizote floor to the red velvet and yellow República de Colombia 42, Centro; lightbulbs. The music is mainly Latin 3620 0075; casdelahuizote.blogspot.mx; and international pop hits, but you can @casadelahuizote; FB: Casa de El hijo catch the occasional drag queen show del Ahuizote. and live group. Great if you’re looking El Hijo del Ahuizote was an anti-Porfirio for something a bit different, but be Díaz newspaper that was printed here by sure to get here before 10 or you’ll the Flores Magón brothers. Reclaimed end up standing in line. and restored in 2012, the building houses an archive of over 15,000 Marrakech Salón documents, including newspapers, República de Cuba 18, Centro; books, photographs and letters. @marrakechsalon; FB: Marrakech Salón. A varied selection of music, strippers, Laboratorio Arte Alameda drag queen shows, reasonably priced Dr. Mora 7, Centro; 5510 2793; drinks and people from every walk arteala meda.bellasartes.gob.mx; of life have made this bar the most @ArteAlameda; popular on the street. Throw inhibition FB: Laboratorio Arte Alameda. to the wind with pickings that range This Franciscan convent dating from from fresh to not-so-fresh, but that are 1591 now provides exhibition space for by no means slim. video, installation and Internet art, sound design projects and other electronic Museums media experiments by Mexican and international artists. Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso Museo Franz Mayer Justo Sierra 16, Centro; Hidalgo 45, Centro; 5518 2266; 5702 2991; sanildefonso.org.mx; franzmayer.org.mx; @el_mayer; @SanIldefonsoMx; FB: Antiguo FB: Museo Franz Mayer. Colegio de San Ildefonso. The Franz Mayer-Traumann Collection The voices of high school students (silver, ceramics, furnishings, fabrics, once rang out in the courtyards of sculpture and painting) resides within

B ósforo this stately old building. Today its a library that holds more than 800

14 downtown downtown 15 L a agunilla Hotel de C ortés

copies of Don Quixote and is also everything from new and secondhand to great Mexican jewelry, handmade com.mx; @GranHotelCM. the Mexican host of the annual World clothes to vintage furniture, cds and pieces, objêts d’art and kicky An early-twentieth-century grand Press Photo photojournalism contest home décor articles. designer pieces. dame, complete with arabesque and show —that’s as much about paparazzi filigree, and a prefect location right as it is hard news. Museo de Arte Popular Hotels by the Zócalo. Guestrooms play on Revillagigedo 11, at Independencia, the overall mood. Did we mention the Museo Numismático Nacional Centro; 5510 2201; Downtown Tiffany-glass roof over the lobby? Apartado 13, Centro; map.df.gob.mx; @map_mexico; Isabel la Católica 30, Centro; 5208 9982; cmm.gob.mx; FB: Museo de Arte Popular. 5130 6830; downtownmexico.com; Hilton Mexico City Reforma FB: Museo Numismático Nacional. The museum store features a smart @DowntownMexico; FB: Downtown Juárez 70, Centro; Coins were minted in this selection of handicrafts from all over Mexico. 5130 5300; hilton.com; seventeenth-century building between Mexico —everything from alebrije The boutique thing has hit the Centro, @HiltonHotels; 1848 and 1992, when more modern fantasy figures to designer toys and on the upper stories of a grand FB: Hilton Mexico City Reforma. methods were introduced. Casa de la fine jewelry. Perfect for one-of-a-kind colonial-era palace. Rooms evince A modern tower is a high-rise choice Moneda is now a museum where you souvenirs. the chic for which the Habita hotel for up-to-date accommodations, plus can see coins from different periods group is known, amid a (can we say good infrastructure for business and the machinery and tools used to Museo Mexicano this?) sexy monastery feel the original travelers. make them. del Diseño (Mumedi) architecture brings on; eye-candy Madero 74, Centro; clusters at the trendy rooftop bar. Hotel de Cortés Shopping 5510 8609; mumedi.mx; Who knew the seventeenth century Hidalgo 85, Centro; 5518 2181; @MUMEDIAmigos; FB: Mumedi. was so hot? boutiquehoteldecortes.com. La Lagunilla It’s a museum part of the time, when Housed in a former seventeenth- Paseo de la Reforma, between Allende there are on temporary shows; the rest Gran Hotel de century convent, a recent redo turned and the Cuitláhuac traffic circle, north of the time (most, really) it’s a store la Ciudad de México it into one of the city’s smartest joints. of the Historic Center; Sundays. you could spend hours in. It features 16 de Septiembre 82, Centro; 1083 The rooftop bar is a winner for sunset The city’s largest flea market deals in everything from indie design mags 7700; granhoteldelaciudaddemexico. cocktails.

16 downtown downtown 17 Roma E dificio R ío de Janeiro On foot A century ago, when La Romita was Álvaro Obregón is the district’s main avenue and as good a place as any to begin your tour, with breakfast a wealthy town of grand mansions, no in one of its many cafés, followed by a stroll past its stately old residential buildings, occupied by good one would have guessed that by the second-hand bookshops and prestigious design turn of the millennium, it would be the stores. Begin on the corner of Monterrey and turn off on Orizaba to visit two bustling squares —Río de hipster part of town. These days, its Janeiro and Luis Cabrera— teeming with cafés and restaurants, teenagers poking around, adorable kids neoclassic, beaux arts and art nouveau- and dogs that aren’t always so adorable. Now and then, markets selling organic and natural products set style buildings, squares and tree-lined up their stalls. Our final stop is Fuente de la Cibeles, a traffic circle with a replica of Madrid’s Cibeles boulevards are abound in restaurants, Fountain in the middle and plenty of bars where you galleries, bars, foodies, artists and can drop in for a quick drink. young folk looking for a good party.

roma 19 Dinamarca Génova Cuauhtémoc Lancaster Havre Venecia Amberes Nápoles Varsovia Hamburgo

Niza Marsella Oxford Av. Insurgentes Sur Roma Florencia

A. Avenida Álvaro Obregón Flora Av. Chapultepec B. Plaza Luis Cabrera C. Plaza Río de Janeiro Tokio Biarritz Liverpool Insurgentes D. Plaza de la Cibeles Sevilla Praga Puebla

Dr. Carmona ValleDr. y Hamburgo

Dr. Liceaga Av. Chapultepec Medellín Pomoná

Durango Sevilla Ocotlán

Puebla Dr. Juan Navarro

C Colima Plaza Río Morelia Sinaloa Tonalá Frontera de Janeiro

Mérida Valladolid D Dr. J. Velasco Salamanca Tabasco Córdoba Oro Orizaba Cozumel Durango

Guadalajara Jalapa

Acapulco Monterrey Av. Álvaro Obregón Av. CuauhtémocDr. Erazo

Av. Sonora Medellín

Colima Chihuahua Dr. Martínez del Río Av. Oaxaca Tabasco A Guanajuato Dr. García Diego Av. Veracruz Av. Álvaro Obregón Plaza Luis B Huichapan Zacatecas Frontera Cabrera Dr. Olvera Mérida

Córdoba J. de la Barrera Parque Orizaba Cacahuamilpa Querétaro m España Av. Nuevo León a Popocatépetl Jalapa rd Dr. Balmis te s Tonalá m A

Celaya Av. Insurgentes Sur San Luis Potosí

Av. Sonora Medellín

Dr.Villada Dr. Rafael Lucio

d r Av. Yucatán Av. Cuauhtémoc e Chiapas Parque t Atlixco s Dr. Pasteur Parral m México A Hospital General

Av. México Coahuila

20 barrio Tapachula barrio 21

Antonio M. Anza Jalapa Dr. Márquez Av. Michoacán

Av. México Amsterdam Restaurants Jucy Lucy Tabasco 46, Roma; 5207 3351; Casa Virginia @JUCYLUCYmx; FB: Jucy Lucy. Monterrey 116, Roma; 5207 1813; Its name comes from the classic casavirginia.mx; @CasaVirginiaDF; south Minneapolis burger, which has a FB: Casa Virginia. yummy piece of melted cheese in the Chef Mónica Patiño’s new restaurant middle of the beef. It also has stunning doesn’t have risqué platters on its soufflé fries. Obviously, it’s a must for menu, but that’s a compliment: her meat lovers. cozy cooking doesn’t just work, it’s absolutely delicious. Try the pork Lalo! to share, the steamed asparagus Zacatecas 173, Roma; and tomato salad. Good wines and 5564 3388; eat-lalo.com; cocktails to prepare for a later party. @eatlalo; FB: LALO. The locals would be lost without Cine Tonalá Lalo!’s breakfasts, whipped up by the Tonalá 261, Roma; 6276 6060; chef of Máximo Bistrot, who seems cinetonala.mx; @cinetonala; determined to conquer the entire city, FB: Cine Tonalá. and served on a long, communal table. In Náhuatl, Tonalá means “the Try the French toast, the croque- place where the sun rises”, which madame and the prosciutto with is a pretty fitting metaphor for this egg on a bed of crumbled corn. All multidisciplinary arts forum and spectacularly delicious! movie theater all in one. As well as an excellent selection of concerts and Maison de Famille independent film, it has a restaurant Colima 152, Roma; with a menu put together by Eduardo 5525 2546; @maisonMx; García. Drop in on weekends for FB: Maison de Famille. brunch. French cuisine with an Occitan influence, by which we mean buckets Contramar of olive oil and lashings of sinful butter. Durango 200, Roma; 5514 3169; If it’s your first time, we recommend contramar.com.mx. the duck confit, which is guaranteed A classic. We recommend the crabs’ to bring you back to sample the rest of legs, tuna tostadas, sea bream with the menu. The French know how to do

anchovies, whole grilled fish smothered dessert, and Maison de Famille is no irginia in two sauces and fried eggs with exception: order a soufflé glacé and a

Iberian ham. glass of wine. C asa V

22 roma roma 23 Oaxaca, mi amor has some excellent La Clandestina ambassadors in Mexico City. One of Álvaro Obregón 298, Roma; these is Yuban, a Zapotec restaurant 5212 1871. whose mescals will get you tripping. The decoration, the dim lights, the Start with a tlayuda and a tomato crowds and the close quarters might salad and follow up with some deer or not be to everyone’s liking, but most of their delicious fish in green mole. us mere mortals will be happy to make La Clandestina our favorite haunt, Bars whether our poison is Chaparritas or mescal —there’s a long list to choose

P uebla 109 Apolonia from, and all come with a detailed Querétaro 211, Roma; description. Máximo Bistrot Local Bo! The quandary is best resolved by 5264 3451; FB: Apolonia. Tonalá 133, Roma; 5264 4291; settling down on one of the benches A first cousin of Gin Gin (Oaxaca Linares maximobistrot.com.mx; in the middle and having a taste 87) —which, according to many in the Orizaba 171, Roma; @Maximo Bistrot; of everything before going up to bar and restaurant business, does 5264 0555; @linaresdf. FB: Maximo Bistrot Local. the Biergarten on the terrace for a one of the city’s best gin-tonics— this This cantina is a little piece of northern Perhaps the best restaurant in Mexico craft beer. You can also find books restaurant and raw bar looks set to Mexico in the heart of the capital. As City. French cuisine that nods to its published by Porrúa and Uchiya become the new “place to be” in La is customary in Monterrey, the beer Mexican, Japanese and American utensils for chefs. Roma. We’re convinced the oysters, the comes in a can and is served with lime counterparts. The heroes: Japanese perfect match for their perfect drinks, and salt. Order some delicious goat’s yellowtail with ginger and avocado, Mog Mog have something to do with it! meat tostadas or a shredded meat asparagus in hollandaise sauce and Córdoba 104, Roma; 5207 2114; chimichanga (deep-fried burrito). organic eggs, pork confit and pasta FB: Restaurante mogmog Aurora with truffles. There is a new nominee to win the Álvaro Obregón 126, Roma; Melody Nelson heart of Oriental food lovers in Roma 5264 1547; Querétaro 225, Roma; Mercado Roma neighborhood —a very fierce one. auroraroma.mx; melodynelsonbar.com; Querétaro 225, Roma Norte; Mog Mog offers traditional Japanese @AURORAROMA; FB: Melody Nelson Piano Bar. 5564 1396; mercadoroma.com; dishes with Chinese, Thai and FB: Aurora Roma Bar. Named after that great Serge @mercadoromamMX; Vietnamese twists. Great ramen and The best thing about this bar is the Gainsbourg record, the Melody is an FB: Mercado Roma. rice. The nigiri sushi is made with the music —there’s a different DJ every intimate piano bar of the kind that Designed by Rojkind Arquitectos, freshest of fish, and there’s a good night and sometimes live music— and is hard to come by (there might not Mercado Roma poses a gourmand’s choice of sakes to go with. the fully stocked bar. The cocktails are be another like it in the city) and is dilemma. The first floor alone boasts great, specially the soursop mojito with surprisingly right in Mercado Roma. over 50 stands selling everything Yuban mescal and the Aurora Gimlet (with Perfect for a quiet night out or a from tapas by La Barraca Valenciana, Colima 268, Roma; 6387 0358; lime marmalade and Hendrick’s). All quick warmup drink to live music that Butcher & Sons’ burgers, bread from yuban.mx; @YubanRoma; the elements together become a great runs the whole gamut, from jazz to Da Silva and chocolates from Que FB: Yuban Roma. chance to have friendly gatherings. Caribbean danzón and flamenco.

24 roma roma 25 Puebla 109 Museo del Juguete Puebla 109, Roma; 6389 7300; Antiguo México puebla109.com; @Puebla_109; Dr. Olvera 15, Doctores; FB: Puebla 109. 5588 2100; museodeljuguete.mx; Bar, restaurant, gallery and private club @MuseodelJuguete; in a single space. On the first floor FB: Museo del juguete MX. is a cocktail lounge-bar, on the second Roberto Shimizu is the owner of an a members-only club and on the third, impressively large and extremely private lounges designed by artists. eclectic collection of toys and objects The food is good (the braised short representing popular Mexican culture. eculiar O bjects rib in red wine and fish of the day Robots, plush toys and wrestlers share P come highly recommended), and the museum space with a wooden horse atmosphere’s always great. from the home of none other than shades, sombreros, clothes for dogs Frustrated at the lack of variety in bags actor Pedro Infante. and kids, bicycles and everything else and luggage sets on the market, Paola Romita Comedor the sophisticated might possibly need. Viloria and Laura Olivarri decided to Álvaro Obregón 49, Roma; Proyectos Monclova create their own brand of accessories 5525 8975; romitacomedor.com; Colima 55, Roma; 55259715; Only The Young Die Young that reveals their nostalgia for classic @RomitaComedor; proyectosmonclova.com; @_Monclova; Querétaro 185, Roma; 1920s style. FB: Romita Comedor. FB: Proyectos Monclova. 6721 0159; By day, Romita Comedor is a gourmet Founded in 2005 it’s known to be one oy-dy.com; @oydymx; Hotels Mexican restaurant; by night, the top of the most interesting experimental FB: Only The Young Die Young. floor of this old house —with beautiful galleries in the country, it represents This design store works with local Four Points by Sheraton floors, high ceilings and an enormous artists such as Edgardo Aragón, Nina craftsmen as part of a concerted effort Álvaro Obregón 38; window— becomes a local hot spot. Beier, François Bucher, Tania Pérez to ensure their survival in this age of 1085 9500; Order a Negroni or a Zacapa. Córdova and the Tercerunquinto mass production. All the furniture is starwoodhotels.com; collective. made with natural materials obtained FB: Four Points by Sheraton Museums & from renewable sources. Mexico City Col. Roma. Galleries Shopping Polished and efficient, plus it won’t Peculiar Objects break the bank. It’s located steps Galería OMR Lemur Álvaro Obregón 159, first floor, Roma; away from stores and trendy bars. Plaza Río de Janeiro 54, Roma; Jalapa 85, Roma; 3547 2182; (044 55) 3238 5883. 5511 1179; galeriaomr.com; lemurshop.blogspot.mx; Secondhand clothes from the1960s La Casona @galería_OMR; FB: Galería OMR. @Lemurshop; and 70s, selected with an eagle Durango 280, Roma; This gallery focuses on artists with FB: LEMUR. eye and a penchant for lasting beauty. 5286 3001; an innovative take on Mexican and Imported brands selected with hotellacasona.com.mx. international aesthetics. It also has a impeccably good taste: Vans, Dr. Robin Archives A fine example of early twentieth- gallery within the gallery, El52, which Martens and Caminando (a Japanese Chihuahua 78-2, Roma; century architecture: eccentric antiques specializes in more risqué projects. brand of shoes made in Mexico), robinarchives.com; FB: Robin-Archives. and other belle époque details.

26 roma roma 27 Condesa México P arque On foot Some 20 years ago, Condesa was a Start on the west side of Alfonso Reyes and walk along its tree-lined verge. On the way, you’ll pass small quiet neighborhood. But in the mid- restaurants where you can eat at your leisure, bars where you can enjoy a mid-afternoon beer, cafés to nineties, its central location began rest up at and stores selling all types of curios. When drawing a new crowd. Publicists, you get to the east side, take Citlaltépetl until you come to Parque México. Take a walk through the trees or designers and artists settled in, and stop to admire the beautiful buildings that stand on the circular avenue surrounding the park. As dinnertime soon its streets were abuzz with cafés, approaches, head for Amsterdam, an oval avenue with restaurants, bars and stores. Today, plenty of delicious restaurants to choose from. Condesa is a mandatory place to eat or go bar hopping, a good gauge of what’s happening in Mexico City.

condesa 29 Lieja Ocotlán

Monterrey Medellín

Puebla Chapultepec Durango

r r Condesa e C Oro a Sinaloa A. Avenida Alfonso Reyes d a Acapulco Salamanca lz a Tampico B. Glorieta Citlaltépetl C Cozumel

C. Parque México Guadalajara Durango Av. Sonora Bosque de Chapultepec Medellín D. Avenida Amsterdam J. de la Barrera Valladolid

Av. Oaxaca Tabasco

Av. Chapultepec Av. Veracruz Colima yentes onstitu Av. Álvaro Obregón ida C Aven Juan Escutia Juan de la Barrera

Fernando Montes de Oca Antonio Solá am Parque rd te Popocatépetl Alumnos s Av. Insurgentes Sur España m A Juan Escutia Celaya General Gómez Pedraza Av. Sonora G. Protasio Pérez de Tagle Zamora Parras Tula

Vicente Suárez Cuernavaca Jojutla Pedro A. De Los Santos Pachuca

Amatlán General Antonio León Atlixco Fagoaga Juanacatlán Parral Laredo

Francisco Márquez Tenancingo G. Conde Av. Tamaulipas G. Ignacio Esteva G. José María Tornel Parque México Av. México Gobernador Rafael Rebollar Amsterdam Av. Nuevo León Av. México

Gobernador Tiburcio Montiel Av. Michoacán Av. Michoacán C Tapachula Gregorio B. Gelati D Alfonso Reyes Vicente Suárez Circuito Interior (José Vasconcelos) Amsterdam

Manzanillo Coahuila

Yautepec Ozuluama A Av. Mazatlán G. Ignacio Esteva Cuautla Ensenada G. José Ceballos Chicontepec Diagonal Patriotismo Cholula Cuernavaca Iztaccíhuatl Jojutla Saltillo Campeche G. José Morán Atlixco Campeche

B Chilpancingo Benjamín Hill Zitácuaro Mexicali Sombrerete Campeche Culiacán Tacámbaro Cuyután G. Palacio Champotón Tlacotalpan

Gobernador Rafael Rebollar

Joaquín A. Pérez Gral. Juan Cano Irapuato Alfonso Reyes G. Agustín Vicente Eguía Citlaltépetl Aguascalientes Av. Insurgentes Sur Av. Nuevo León Eje 4 Sur BenjamínCarlos B. Zetina Franklin Ometusco

Gobernador Luis G. Vieyra Ciencias ipas Benjamín Hill Francisco Murguía ul Tuxpan ama Choapan Av. T Avenida Jalisco Tepic Gobernador José Guadalupe Covarrubias Altata Etla Tlaxcala Progreso Sultepec

Avenida Revolución Eje 3 Sur Baja California

30 barrio barrio 31 Restaurants the pasta with fresh chilaca chili peppers. A good wine list with well- Bretón Rosticeros intentioned prices. Zamora 33, Condesa; 5211 7196; bretonrosticeros.com; Merotoro @bretonrosticero; Amsterdam 204, Condesa; FB: Bretón / Rosticeros. 5564 7799; merotoro.mx. Chicken, turkey, fish, beef and Seafood, meat and poultry, all fresh pork turn on spits in this fantastic from the farm. Sample some of chef rotisserie, where they basically roast Jair Téllez’s classic dishes, like bone elina everything. The ramen has gotten marrow risotto or pork jaw with lentils F better over the months, as has the and his crazy on-the-spot creations. broad bean soup and the porchetta, Patagonia Bars which now has a Yucatan influence. Mr. Buns Campeche 345, Condesa; You’d be well-advised to reserve, Amsterdam 218, Condesa; 5211 8032; parrillapatagonia.com; Baltra specially on weekends. 5564 8506; mrbuns.mx; FB: Patagonia- Parrilla de campo. Iztaccíhuatl 36-D, Condesa; baltra.bar. @Mrbunsburguer; A “country grill” concept that whisks Discreet, with a bar running practically Casa d’Italia FB: Mr Buns. you out of the Argentinean province the whole length of a corridor and Agustín Melgar 6, Condesa; Restaurants worthy of the approval of Buenos Aires and takes you a few couches scattered around, 5286 2021; @‌CasadItaliaMx; of locals have finally opened on the south to Patagonia and its Baltra is a close relative of Licorería FB: Casa d’Italia. Iztaccíhuatl traffic circle. One of these countryside feel. Cocktails and Limantour. Their area of expertise is Luigi Cesarano Vitiello from Naples is Mr. Buns, a (fictional?) character huge cuts of beef make this a classic cocktails, but we recommend caters to a small, but loyal following who loves gourmet hamburgers great place for dinner. Lately, the seasonal drinks. Low lights and and gives his guests the personal just like the ones served here. however, it’s become popular for its good music, here the night begins with treatment. Your best bet is to order Chef Enrique Olvera is one of the weekday breakfasts and weekend promises whispered in your ear. one of the chef’s suggestions, majority partners. brunches. like the burrata, beef ragout or Felina seafood pasta. Pápalo y Papalotl Primos Ometusco 87, Condesa; @FelinaBar. Juan de la Barrera 74, Michoacán 168, Free of office workers and teenagers, Lampuga Condesa; 5256 2205; Condesa; 5256 0950; Felina is a throwback to what La Ometusco 1, Condesa; FB: Pápalo y Papalotl bajodelatintorera.com. Condesa once was. Good music and 5286 1525; lampuga.com.mx; – Comida Vegana y Sustentable. A gathering ground for celebrities not-too-bright lights. Check out the @LampugaMX; A new restaurant that has defied the and executives visiting the Condesa, cocktails, made with loving care. FB: Lampuga Condesa. odds and shown that, when properly generally well-groomed and in A seafood-bistro turned wine bar. Our done, vegan food is so delicious the best of moods. The duck torta Leonor favorite dishes are the tuna carpaccio even carnivores can’t resist. Healthy ahogada and spectacular hot dogs Nuevo León 163, Condesa; with jalapeño chili, the Andalusian- and sustainable. Order the Baby are worth getting a mouthful from @leonorcondesa; style soupy rice and, when available, Portobello hamburger. your nutritionist. FB: LEONOR.

32 condesa condesa 33 LABOR Tiny, but with a good selection of Gral. Francisco Ramírez 5, Ampliación books in English, this store is hidden Daniel Garza; 6304 8755; in the labyrinthine hallways of the labor.org.mx; @L_A_B_O_R. American Legion. After you’ve Labor promotes the work of picked out a title, go down to the conceptual artists like Etienne restaurant for a supreme hamburger Chambaud, Héctor Zamora, Teresa and a quiet read. Margolles, Pedro Reyes and Pablo Vargas Lugo, among others. It also has Hotels an extensive library open to the public

Kurimanzutto and a parallel activities program. Condesa DF Veracruz 102, Condesa; An all-time favorite: small, but Galleries Shopping 5241 2600; condesadf.com. intimate; fun, but classy; dressy, but Condesa DF remains a yardstick as not overly. It is simply ideal. It doesn’t Galería de Arte Mexicano (gam) Avocet Jewlery far as hotels in the area go. Pleasant, take long for the pretty people to Gob. Rafael Rebollar 43, San Miguel Casa Colmena. Saltillo 3, Condesa; nicely decorated rooms. Watch the sun arrive and the guest dj has a pop- Chapultepec; 5272 5529. avocetjewelry.com; set from the rooftop bar with a drink electro repertoire that normally lasts Possibly Mexico City’s first gallery, FB: Avocet Jewelry. in hand. all night long. it opened its doors 80 years ago, Michelle Goñi’s creations evoke showing the work of then fresh-faced objects worshipped at rituals around María Condesa Social artists Diego Rivera, José Clemente the world. A stable presence at Atlixco 132, Condesa; Nuevo León 67, Condesa. Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Rufino fashion bazaars, she now has her own 5286 5829; Loft atmosphere and alternative-indie Tamayo, Frida Kahlo and Agustín space at Casa Colmena. mariacondesa.com; music in a well known corner of the Lazo, to name just a few. @HotelMaCondesa; neighborhood. There’s a bar serving Kardigan FB: Hotel Maria Condesa. mescal-based cocktails and you can’t Kurimanzutto Sonora 195-A, Condesa; Its rooms harbor colorful surprises and go wrong with the food, specially with Gob. Rafael Rebollar 94, San kardigan.com.mx; FB: Kardigan. it couldn’t be in a better location. a pasty or a pork sandwich. Miguel Chapultepec; 5256 2408; Some claim this store is for hipsters, kurimanzutto.com; @kurimanzutto; but there’s no denying the dresses, Red Tree House Xel-Ha FB: Kurimanzutto. T-shirts and especially the accessories Culiacán 6, Condesa; Michoacán at the corner Before being intervened by architect make any girl look fabulous. Fresh, fun 5584 3829; of Parral, Condesa; Alberto Kalach, this was a timber designs and an evening gown rental theredtreehouse.com; 5553 5968. yard and then a cake shop. Today, it is service for that special event. FB: The Red Tree House. A good old-fashioned cantina whose one of the country’s leading galleries A B&B that could almost be described Yucatán dishes have kept it afloat with a portfolio of artists that Under The Volcano Books as a boutique hotel. Unparalleled all these years: classic turkey and includes Gabriel Orozco, Abraham Celaya 25, Condesa; location, cozy rooms and friendly, pork tacos and a lime soup that’s hard Cruzvillegas, Gabriel Kuri and underthevolcanobooks.com; approachable staff. Like being in a to beat. Minerva Cuevas. FB: Under the Volcano Books. country house in the middle of the city.

34 condesa condesa 35 amayo

Reforma Museo T On foot Paseo de la Reforma was a road for Juárez, Cuauhtémoc, Zona Rosa Fuel up at one of the popular new restaurants, bars governors and a residential zone back or cafés that have recently opened on Havre Street before setting out to explore the Cuauhtémoc district. in the early twentieth-century. Today it (Just be sure to avoid lunch time, when you’re likely to remains the city’s main thoroughfare, get mowed down by hordes of hungry office workers). Back on Paseo de la Reforma, take a while to admire providing easy access to the charming some of the city’s most emblematic monuments, like the Angel of Independence and the statue of Diana, days of Cuauhtémoc district and the before bringing the night to a bohemian close in one lively nights of the Juárez district and of the Zona Rosa’s kitsch bars. Zona Rosa. At the end of Reforma Bosque de Chapultepec Begin at the highest point of this enormous park, is Chapultepec Park, the city’s lung Castillo de Chapultepec, today home to the Museo Nacional de Historia. It’s downhill from here, across and one of its nicest places. Paseo de la Reforma to the Museo Tamayo, one of the most important contemporary art museums in the country, and the Museo de Antropología, a must if you’re interested in Mexico’s pre-Columbian history.

reforma 37 Bahía Sta. Bárbara Reforma Bahía Todos los Santos Antonio Caso Homero A. Castillo de Chapultepec Bahía Magdalena

RíoYan Tze Laplace Gabino Barreda B. Museo de Arte Moderno Río Ussuri Halley Río Amur Río Amoy Altamirano C. Museo Tamayo Parque Vía Rosas Moreno Flamarion Río Eufrates Euken Leibnitz Av. Ejército Nacional Cuvier Miguel Shultz D. Museo de Antropología Bradley Herschel Kepler Buﬀon Río Grijalva Serapio Rendón E. FuenteHoracio de la Diana Cazadora James Sullivan Shakespeare Villalongín Goethe F. Ángel de la Independencia Bécquer Herodoto Michelet Río Guadalquivir Río Amazonas Río Neva Renan Río Balsas Comte G. La Palma

Taine Petrarca H. Zona Rosa Euler

LopeVega de Suderman Rousseau Río Rihn Río Marne Támesis Gral. Prim Torcuato Tasso Torcuato Gutemberg Río Nazas Shakespeare Eje Río Niágara Río Pánuco Wallon 3 Pte. Thiers Río Sena Río Danubio Río Tigris Lucerna Descartes Goethe Ca Copérnico Milton mpos Elí seo s Río Tiber Río Po Roma Viena

Río Nilo Río Ebro Milán Darwin Bruselas Rubén Darío Río Papaloapan Curie G Río Ganges Copenhague Hamburgo Gral. Mariano Escobedo Cantú Circuito Interior (Melchor Ocampo)Río Misisipi Río de la Plata Londres Belgrado Río Duero F Dinamarca M Berlín a h Río Hudson a t m Río Volga a Victor Hugo Río Elba G a Dante Nápoles n Sevilla d Lancaster h Havre i Paseo de la Reforma H Marsella Venecia Cuauhtémoc Río Lerma Varsovia Génova Amberes E Oxford D Río Atoyac Niza Morelia Florencia C Av. Insurgentes Sur Tokio Av. Chapultepec Flora Toledo Hamburgo Liverpool Praga B Biarritz Insurgentes

Puebla

Burdeos Lieja Av. Chapultepec

Pomona Sevilla Frontera

Medellín Bosque de Durango Chapultepec Puebla Chapultepec Valladolid

Salamanca Mérida

Córdoba Av. Insurgentes Sur

Orizaba Guadalajara Sinaloa

Jalapa o

r Tonalá e Av. Chapultepec C Acapulco Tampico Oro A . Tabasco a Durango d z C Agustín Melgar Medellín Cozumel

Av. Cuauhtémoc

Monterrey Juan de la Barrera Av. Oaxaca Av. Veracruz Colima Tabasco Pachuca

Av. Chapultepec Dr. García Diego tes tituyen Juan Escutia Av. Álvaro Obregón ons Av. Sonora Av. C Dr. Olvera sterda Cuernavaca Am m 38 reforma Circuito Interior (José ZamoraVasconcelos) reforma 39 Dr. Balmis Fernando Montes De Oca Juan Escutia Av. Sonora General Gómez Pedraza Parras Celaya

Tula

Jojutla Av. Cuauhtémoc

Av. Nuevo León

Gobernador Tiburcio Montiel Gobernador Rafael Rebollar Restaurants first branch in the Roma district led her to open a second, larger one in Bistrot Arlequin the Juárez area. Delicious French Río Nilo 42, Cuauhtémoc; pastries, good coffee and a selection 5207 5616; bistrotarlequin.com.mx. of sandwiches. French cuisine at a reasonable price: four-pepper steak, onion soup, tomato Paprika and goat’s cheese tart and crème brûlée. Marsella 61, Juárez; 5533 0303; Don’t overlook the specials. @Paprika_df; FB: Paprika:df. A spicy menu of Arab- and Moroccan-

De Mar a Mar inspired creations by chef Josefina R okai Niza 13, Juárez; 5207 5730; Santacruz. All the dishes are intended demaramar.mx; FB: De Mar a Mar. for the center of the table. We any other in Mexico or perhaps the Mono The menu was created by Chef Eduardo especially recommend the beef and entire world. Its well-informed staff will Versalles 64, Juárez; García from Máximo Bistrot. Try the lamb meatballs in fennel and tomato be only too happy to introduce you to mono.am; slivers of tuna with dried chili peppers, sauce, and the mushroom and eggplant the world of beer, and even experts @mono_df; FB: MONO. the Japanese yellowfish with ginger, starters. can benefit from tips on new brews This big, old house is actually a the bundle of corn with fish and string and combinations. nightclub, even if it’s not on the cheese, the grilled specialities or their Rokai club circuit. Great for sipping on delicious version of Veracruz-style fish. Río Ebro 87 y 89, Cuauhtémoc; King Cole Bar cocktails and getting on down 5207 7543; @Rokaimexico; FB: Rokai. Hotel St. Regis, Paseo de la Reforma on the dance floor to some techno. El Tercer Lugar A tiny restaurant on Río Ebro with 439; 5228 1935. Just to be on the safe side, make Havre 83-2, Juárez; 5208 0038; one Japanese chef who don’t speak One of the best whisky joints in town, sure your name’s on the list. FB: El Tercer Lugar. a word of Spanish behind the bar: offering an extensive list of fine malts. Located in a beautiful early twentieth- Daisuke Maeda. Rokai means “what The décor is soberly elegant, yet Parker & Lenox century mansion, this specialty café comes from the ocean” and, true to inviting, with a great view of Reforma Milán 14, Juárez; 5546 6979; offers a fabulous selection of blends its name, a 12-course omakase menu thrown in for free. @parkerandlenox; that change with the season and a is created every day around the FB: Parker & Lenox. variety of extraction methods. A refuge catch of the day. Space is limited, London Karaoke What appears to be a diner called for bookworms and a mobile office for so reserve. Londres 167, third floor, Zona Rosa; Parker serving fast-food (hamburgers, freelancers. (044 55) 3201 2100; chili fries, grilled cheese…) has a Bars FB: Canta Bar London Karaoke. speakeasy twin out back called Panadería Rosetta Get your friends together, reserve a Lenox. A throwback to the days of Havre 73, Juárez; Fiebre de Malta room, order in some beers or sake and Prohibition, it has a foot-tapping @Pan_Rosetta; FB: Rosetta. Río Lerma 156, Cuauhtémoc; prepare to sing until the cock crows. atmosphere, courtesy of live jazz Hot on the heels of the success of her 5207 0491; fiebredemalta.com; The Park family is so attentive that bands most nights. To drink, we restaurant, Chef Elena Reygadas has @FiebreDeMalta; FB: Fiebre de Malta. they send you on your merry way with recommend the Red Sour or any opened a bakery. The lines outside the This bar carries more craft beers than candies and slices of melon. gin-based cocktail.

40 reforma reforma 41 Shopping FB: Four Seasons Hotel Mexico DF. It’s conveniently close to the corporate Daniel Liebsohn Antigüedades headquarters of most major companies, y Excentricidades stores and touris sites. Londres 161-49 (Plaza del Ángel), Juárez; 5525 2050, 5525 3327; Le Méridien liebsohn.com.mx. Paseo de la Reforma 69; 5061 3000; Liebsohn’s is a veritable time machine: lemeridien.com; @Lemeridienmex; nineteenth-century furniture, sixteenth- FB: Le Méridien Mexico City. century paintings and seventeenth In addition to 160 suites, it offers several

Museo E xperimental E l co century decorative items, nearly all of dining options, including the French which bear a price tag. restaurant C’est la Vie. Museums Museo Nacional de Antropología Proyecto Fusión Marquís Reforma Museo de Arte Moderno (mam) Paseo de la Reforma at Gandhi in Londres 37, Juárez; 5511 6328; Paseo de la Reforma 465, Cuauhtémoc; Paseo de la Reforma on the corner Chapultepec Park; 4040 5300; proyectofusion.com.mx; 5229 1200; marquisreforma.com; of Gandhi, Bosque de Chapultepec; mna.inah.gob.mx. @BazarFUSION; FB: Bazar FUSION. The @Marquis Reforma; museoartemoderno.com; The Vatican Museum of Mexico’s Bazar Fusión design project has found a FB: Hotel Marquis Reforma. @museoAmodernoMX; pre- Colombian civilizations, a must-see. new home in the Juárez district. The work An unbeatable location (between Torre FB: Amigos Museo de Arte Moderno. If you’re in a hurry, jump directly to of several designers is displayed in each Mayor and the Diana) and world-class The finest twentieth-century Mexican the Maya and Aztec galleries for room, and on weekends things liven up services that include a luxury spa. art. Siqueiros, Dr. Atl, Diego Rivera, “greatest hits.” The 1966 structure with pop-up restaurants. Frida Kahlo, Leonora Carrington, still dazzles. Sheraton María Isabel Remedios Varo, Tamayo, José Luis RIP Rosa Pistola Hotel and Towers Cuevas and Vicente Rojo are some Museo Tamayo Arte Lisboa 48, Juárez; 5264 8248; Paseo de la Reforma 325; 5242 5555; of its heavyweights. Contemporáneo ripbyrosapistola.com; @RosaPistola; sheraton.com/mariaisabel; Paseo de la Reforma 51 on the corner FB: Rip Rosa Pistola. FB: Sheraton Maria Isabel. Museo Experimental El Eco of Gandhi, Bosque de Chapultepec; Bronx-style sweatshirts, T-shirts and Popular among the business crowd. Sullivan 43, San Rafael; 5535 4351; 4122 8200; museotamayo.org; metallic-colored shoes for men and Upscale, but nothing out of the ordinary, eleco.unam.mx; @museo_el_eco; @museotamayo; caps, leopard-skin belts and T-shirts which is precisely the idea. FB: Museo Experimental El Eco. FB: Museo Tamayo. emblazoned with Selena for women, Conceived by Mathias Goeritz, with Aside from the works of Tamayo, plus an amazing line of jewelry. St. Regis Hotel the input of Luis Barragán, this who was a native of Oaxaca, this Paseo de la Reforma 439; 5228 1818; experimental museum is devoted museum hosts modern art exhibitions Hotels starwoodhotels.com; @stregishotels; to interdisciplinary exhibitions and from all over the world. It also has an FB: St. Regis Hotels & Resorts. unconventional art projects that excellent restaurant with full views Four Seasons Hotel This hotel has adopted the maxim “more prompt visitors to reflect on the of Chapultepec Park, jazz nights and Paseo de la Reforma 500; 5230 1818; is more”. Impeccable rooms with a concept of space. film cycles. fourseasons.com/mexico; @FSMexico; modern feel and an air of exoticism.

42 reforma reforma 43 olanco

Polanco A ntara P On foot Originally, it was for people who wanted Begin your visit at Parque Lincoln, continue on to Emilio Castelar and Little Polanco, the quainter, to live close to the city (what is today more down-to-earth facet of Polanco compared to downtown Mexico City) but without all Presidente Masaryk, where sitting down and getting a bite to eat is a must. Walk on through the luxurious the hustle and bustle. Today, Polanco Presidente Masaryk avenue and do some shopping at some of the best international haute couture stores is a major financial, business and in the city, find unique items at The Feathered, Onora Casa or Yakampot. Northbound is New Polanco, commercial center, and, as such, one as the recently refurbished Irrigación and Granada of the busiest parts of town: it’s full of districts have been christened. Visit the Antara Polanco mall for some high-end fashion shopping, restaurants, bars, cafés and boutiques or stop for a bite to eat at one of the restaurants in Plaza Carso, which is adjacent to the Soumaya to sate the most demanding taste, Museum. A stone’s throw away is the recently opened Inbursa Aquarium — 3,600 square meters always with a touch of glamour and inhabited by 5,000 samples of 300 aquatic species. To round off, catch a contemporary art exhibition at timeless style. the Jumex Museum.

polanco 45 Laguna de Mayrán Danxhó

L. de la Mancha

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Campos Elíseos Luis G. Urbina A Mont 3 Picos e Elb Campos Elíseos ruz Polanco P er ifé A. Parque Lincoln ri co M B JulioVerne a B. Antara lv Rubén Darío h . a M tm a n Mahatma Gandhi a C. Museo Jumex u e G l Á a v n i d la h Pedregal C a i m Museo Nacional a c Paseo de la Reforma h o de Antropología Museo Auditorio Auditorio Tamayo Nacional 46 barrio barrio 47 Restaurants cocktail, which just happens to be the house specialty. Astrid y Gastón Tennyson 117, Polanco; Campotoro 5282 2666; astridygaston.com.mx; Anatole France 70, Polanco; @AstridyGastonMX; 5281 7093; campotoro.mx; FB: Astrid y Gastón México. FB: Restaurante Campotoro. By Gastón Acurio, one of the world’s top Chef Benjamín Eljure Téllez runs this

Peruvian chefs. The ceviches (specially laidback Spanish restaurant with a ori the Lima DF) and anticuchos (marinated, Mexican air. The menu consists of ori T skewered meat) are a must, but the kid, traditional dishes and reinterpretations T pork confit, bread and roast beef come a of the classics. Try the huevos rotos, the close second. For an aperitif, order a pisco delicious Kurobuta pork ribs and the Eno Magnolia Bakery sour. And make sure you have a fat wallet. grilled octopus in red wine. Petrarca 258, Chapultepec Morales; Virgilio 40, Polanco; 5280 5063; 5531 8535; eno.com.mx; magnoliabakery.com; @magnoliamexico; Biko Casa Portuguesa @loncheria_eno; FB: Loncheria eno. FB: Magnolia Bakery México. Plaza Zentro. Masaryk 407, Polanco; Emilio Castelar 111, Polanco; If Enrique Olvera opened a diner, what This bakery became famous when one of 5282 2064; biko.com.mx; @CASABIKO; 5281 0075; casaportuguesa.com.mx; would it be like? The answer is Eno, where its New York branches appeared in Sex FB: Biko Restaurante Bar. @Casa_Portuguesa. haute cuisine is transformed into finger- and the City. When it arrived in Mexico Spanish chefs Mikel Alonso and Bruno Traditional Portuguese fare. Dine on licking fast food. The salads are reason City, it caused something of a sensation. Oteiza’s restaurant is divided into codfish, black grouper in vinaigrette, enough to pop in, but the sandwiches The cupcakes are yummy (the red velvet two sections: traditional Basque and sautéed prawns or black rice, as are simply out of this world. Hard-core variety deserves a special mention) and “evolutionary” cuisine, which features melancholic strains of fado echo in the addicts come for breakfast, Mexican- so are the ice-cream sandwiches, but the dishes like their famous foie gras with background and you sip an excellent style, but with a twist (like molletes made melt-in-your mouth banana pudding is cotton candy, quail wrapped in popcorn young wine. with three types of farmhouse cheese). worth breaking any diet over. and crispy sheep in its wool. The tasting menu is your best bet if you want to Dulce Patria Guzina Oaxaca Mar del Zur experiment. Anatole France 100, Polanco; Masaryk 513, Polanco; 5282 1820; Emilio Castelar 163; Polanco; 5280 3300 3999; dulcepatriamexico.com; guzinaoaxaca.com; @GuzinaOaxaca; 4360; mardelzur.com; @mardelzurDF; Butcher & Sons @dulcepatriamx; FB: Martha Ortiz / FB: Guzina Oaxaca. FB: Mar del Zur. Virgilio 8, Polanco; 5280 4247; Dulce Patria. Chef Alejandro Ruiz, champion of Casa “Mex-Thai” dishes that owe their butcherandsons.com; @ButcherandSons; Chef Martha Ortiz does Mexico proud Oaxaca, is the owner of this Mexico City existence to the Manila Galleons that FB: Butcher & Sons. with her Puerto de Acapulco (red restaurant. Definitely not the swankiest in once ferried ingredients between Mexico Risqué, but tasty hamburgers, like the shrimp ceviche with serrano chili Polanco, but the food more than makes and Asia. Don’t be surprised to find Zappa, which has foie gras, or the Bowie peppers, pineapple, salt crackers and up for it: grilled octopus with pepperleaf mango and ginger and tamarind with with its julienne-thin strips of tortilla. To grasshoppers) and “tablecloth staining” and corn smut rice, agua chili peppers chipotle chili sauces on the same plate. accompany your sandwich, we suggest mole. Choose from a fine selection of stuffed with ceviche and smothered in The waiters are a bit hoity-toity, but the a side order of yucca and a gin-based mescals, tequilas and Mexican wines. passion fruit sauce, bean soup... food is worth it.

48 polanco polanco 49 Tori Tori beautiful people, three bars, electronic Anatole France 71 B, Polanco; music and enough alcohol flowing to 5280 8067; toritori.com.mx. knock out a herd of elephants. Gravity is An impressive variety of authentic sushi located in the big old mansion that used and nigiri. The owner, Doctor Kumoto, to house the Hard Rock Café and is has done a great job keeping up both the packed to the brim every weekend. quality and prestige of his restaurant. Jules Basement Julio Verne 93, Polanco; omate Bars julesbasement.com; @JulesBasement;

B ar T Bar Tomate FB: Jules Basement. Emilio Castelar 229, first floor, Polanco; The cocktails at this speakeasy are Morimoto Pujol 5280 6099; grupotragaluz.com. wicked good (its barman, Carlos Soto, Camino Real Polanco. Petrarca 254, Polanco; 5545 4111; A branch of its Madrid namesake. Begin has won every mixology competition Mariano Escobedo 700, Polanco; pujol.com.mx; @pujolrestaurant. the night with a fine Spanish wine as you under the sun). Expect DJS and live jazz, 5263 8888; morimotomexicocity.com; The most famous and, in the opinion snack on a coca (an open, Catalonian- but if you’re not on the list, you won’t get @MorimotoMex; FB: Morimoto México. of many, best restaurant in all of style pasty). The rest of the tapas are in, so drop them a mail before you show. Masaharu Morimoto is rated one of Mexico City. Enrique Olvera is delicious, the atmosphere inviting and the Japan’s top chefs. If you haven’t been constantly coming up with ingenious bar itself spacious. The Comrade to his restaurant in Mexico City yet, get dishes. You don’t get to choose though: Emilio Castelar 149, Polanco; on the phone immediately to book a there’s just a tasting menu, but you’re Gravity 5280 2145; FB: The Comrade. table. The toro tartar, pork belly buns in good hands. It’s not easy to get a Campos Elíseos 290, Polanco; This bar has simple, but tasty food and house sashimi are a must, and they reservation either, but they take walk- (044 55) 2574 7773; gravitypolanco.com; (we recommend the rib-eye tacos), do a lovely light ramen. ins, so if you happen to be in the @gravity_polanco. unbeatable drinks, décor that makes the neighborhood, we suggest you give A real club with a bouncer at the door, most of a small space. Novecento it a shot. Emilio Castelar 163, Polanco; 5280 4619; novecento.com; Quintonil Gourmet Markets in Polanco FB: Novecento México. Newton 55, Polanco; 5280 2680; Aside from some fabulous restaurants, Little Polanco has three gourmet food The first Mexican branch of an quintonil.com; @rest_Quintonil; markets. Marché Dumas (Alejandro Dumas 125; 5280 8385; marchedumas.com) Argentinean bistro that started out in FB: QUINTONIL. specializes in imported cuts, baked goods, pastas, salads, wines and select coffee, New York’s SoHo district. Chef Fran Mexican food for the center of the which you can order to go or sample out back in the courtyard, while Mercado Capital del Piero spends the afternoons table. Choose from a set menu (comida (Alejandro Dumas 78; 5281 5538; @Mercado_capital; FB: Mercado Capital) carries dreaming up the daily specials, which corrida), green rice with egg, suckling a fine selection of wines and spirits, and boasts one of the best terraces in Polanco are the selling point of Novecento. pig with apple and apple blossom, — the perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine and a duck sandwich. La Boutique (Julio Everything is homemade, there’s a and turkey with black chili sauce. Verne 102; 5282 2088; laboutiquepolanco.com) is an extension of the French good raw food bar plus an excellent For dessert, go wild and order what restaurant Le Bouchon, so it’s no surprise the snacks are delicious (the ratatouille wine list. they’ve got. sandwich is excellent).

50 polanco polanco 51 Museums Hotels

Jumex Museum Camino Real Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Mariano Escobedo 700; Ampliación Granada; 5395 2615; 5263 8888; fundacionjumex.org; caminoreal.com. @FundacionJumex; FB: Fundación Architect Ricardo Legorreta’s bright Jumex Arte Contemporáneo. brand of modernism is hotter than The largest contemporary art collection ever. This hotel is favorite among in Latin America, apart from its former both business travelers and come- home in Ecatepec, now occupies this of-age tourists. The property includes Museo Jumex luxury 4,000-square-meter container restaurants and bars, as well as designed by the English architect David upscale meeting rooms, that attract Intercontinental Presidente Las Alcobas Chipperfield. many locals throughout the whole year. Mexico City Masaryk 390; Campos Elíseos 218; 3300 3900; Soumaya Museum Habita 5327 7700; lasalcobas.com. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Masaryk 201; ihg.com/intercontinental. This hotel is quite comfortable, Ampliación Granada; 1103 9800; 5282 3100; A full-service international hotel, in with modern lines, bold furniture soumaya.com.mx; @elmuseosoumaya; hotelhabita.com. a remarkable location, well known and warm, creamy tones. A perfect FB: Museo Soumaya. Mexico City’s first design hotel remains among business people both local fit for shopping addicts (it is really Six floors and 66,000 works of art by a firm favorite, not only for cool visitors, and visiting. Even if you don’t stay close from some of the best masters like Degas, Renoir, Gauguin, but also for the locals, that usually in this venue, you can dine at its international boutiques in town) Miró, Picasso and Dalí represent just a visit the roofbar to have some drinks. restaurants: Au Pied de Cochon or flanêurs looking for some nice smidgen of the impressive art collection The hotel is very close to the bohemian and The Palm are both safe bets. streets to wander. Also for foodies, owned by the richest man in Mexico. part of the neighborhood, Polanquito, who will be delighted to dine at but far enough to avoid the noisy JW Marriott Hotel Anatol restaurant. Sala de Arte Público crowd. Mexico City Siqueiros (saps) Andrés Bello 29; W Mexico City Tres Picos 29, Polanco; 8647 5340; Hyatt Regency Mexico City 5999 0000; Campos Elíseos 252; saps-latallera.org; @SAPS_LaTallera; Campos Elíseos 204; marriott.com. 9138 1800; FB: Sala de Arte Público Siqueiros. 5083 1234; Here you will find unparalleled starwoodhotels.com. Twenty-five days before he died, mexicocity.regency.hyatt.com. luxury in the heart of Polanco The sexiest of the Campos Elíseos Siqueiros left his house and body of Quite popular among the business neighborhood. Dinner or breakfast avenue bunch, fully equipped to works to the Mexican people. SAPS’ crowd, with state-of-art meeting and at Brasserie Lip restaurant will make cater to your every business need. permanent collection features drawings, conference rooms. Besides, it is really your stay worthwhile. The hotel also Even after many years, its loungebar paintings, graphic art, scale models and close from the corporate district at hosts the very prestigious Club de remains one of the favorite spots sketches, and since 2010, it has been Lomas de Chapultepec and from Industriales, a social gathering venue of the coolest cocktail-powered running an artist-in-residence program. Auditorio Nacional. (members only). young crowd.

52 polanco polanco 53 West P ark laza By car Built less than 30 years ago, Santa Fe Santa Fe Even though you will have to use the car, you can is populated by buildings, where begin walking at the Santa Fe Mall, which has literally upscale restaurants, bars and boutiques hundreds of stores and restaurants, but be sure to save some energy for other shopping areas like Park float behind seas of glass. A little Plaza and Samara, where you’ll find a great selection of fashion and design boutiques. closer to the city center, in Lomas Lomas de Chapultepec de Chapultepec, among stately old Then it’s off to Paseo de la Reforma. On the drive residences, huge jacaranda and giant from the Constituyentes intersection with Periférico, you’ll pass some of the most spectacular homes in the palm trees, restaurants, cafés, bars and city. Don’t stop until you get to Prado Norte and Prado Sur, twin streets that are lined with casual restaurants. stores here are well-established among If there’s nothing here that tickles your fancy, near the end of Paseo de las Palmas, before you get to the local community and will have you Polanco, are other gourmet eateries and afterwards coming back time and time again. you can browse among the amazing design stores.

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ar s um o Tarah Paseo de los Arquitectos Sierra Restaurants Hunan Paseo de la Reforma 2210, Bistro Estoril Lomas Virreyes; 5596 0123; Guillermo González Camarena 999, hunan.com.mx. local 1A, Santa Fe; 5292 1211; There’s always a place for a good, bistroestoril.com; @Bistro_Estoril; authentic Chinese restaurant like FB: Bistro Estoril. Hunan, even if it is on the pricey side. Although the original in Polanco is more Peking duck, lettuce rolls, steamed popular, we like this one because it’s dumplings, whole sea bass and sweet- spacious and has a fab terrace. You’ll also and-sour chicken in a jungle setting. find dishes on the menu they don’t serve D istrito C apital in Polanco, like fish balls, pork crackling Morton’s crepes, black mole, artichoke hearts with Paseo de las Palmas 405 planta baja, Puntarena Bars hollandaise sauce and fig tart. Lomas de Chapultepec; Paseo de las Palmas 275, 5540 7897; mortons.com/mexicocity; Lomas de Chapultepec; Central Central Café Torino @MortonsMexCity; 5520 1784; Park Plaza. Javier Barros Sierra 540, Vasco de Quiroga 1700, Santa Fe; FB: Morton’s Mexico City. bajodelatintorera.com. Santa Fe; 5292 3168; centralcentral. 5292 7998; bajodelatintorera.com. Prime beef, aged and cut in Chicago. Great seafood and very well cooked. com.mx; @CENTRALCENTRAL; Excellent Turin-style pastas (especially There are ten types of steaks on Fresh sashimi, red snapper (order the FB: Central Central. the gnocchi with gorgonzola and the menu, as well as hamburgers, tiradito), tuna burgers and salpicón paired Party the night away in the company orecchiette with broccoli leaves), pizzas crab cakes and lobster bisque. For with a great selection of wines. of live djs and socialites. The terrace is and main courses: breaded veal chops, dessert, you can’t go wrong with the where the action is, but if you get tired of bass with caper and lime sauce and cheesecake. Quattro all the glitz and glamour, you can always deviled rock Cornish chicken. The Hotel JW Marriot Santa Fe. take a time out in a nook beside the tiramisu is easily the best in town!. Nobu Av. Santa Fe 160; 9177 9727; restaurant. Check out the delicious cold Arcos Bosques. Paseo de quattro.com.mx; cuts, wine and cheese specialties. Casa Merlos Tamarindos 90, Bosques de las Lomas; @QuattroMX; Victoriano Zepeda 80, Observatorio; 9135 0060; FB: Quattro Gastronomia I Distrito Capital 5516 4017; casamerlos.com; noburestaurants.com/mexico-city. taliana (Mex. City). Juan Salvador Agraz 37, Santa Fe; @CasaMerlos; Mexico City couldn’t be prouder to The first franchise opened by 5257 1300; grupohabita.mx; FB: Casa Merlos Restaurante. welcome chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s Piedmont chefs Nicola and Fabrizio @GRUPOHABITA; FB: Grupo Habita. Traditional eighteenth-century dishes restaurant into its rank and file. Japan Carro, who welcome their guests A bar with a lounge atmosphere, from Puebla, so true to the period they meets Peru in the form of black cod with a glass of white San Benedetto minimalist tables and excellent don’t accept credit cards. Chef Lucila with miso (his most famous creation), wine, slivers of parmigiano reggiano service in one of the city’s top clubs. makes the best moles ever and her tiradito (a dish similar to sashimi), Kobe and freshly baked bread. We loved djs from all over the world get Santa chiles en nogada are simply out sashimi and scallops. If you the saffron risotto with squash Fe dancing at the pool parties on of this world. For dessert, order the can’t decide, go ahead and order flowers and the cheese raviolis the terrace, which have become pine nut custard. the tasting menu. with truffles. something of a regular happening.

58 west west 59 Penny Lane Domínguez. Their brand, Bimba y Lola, for everyone, from pretty flower Mexican hotel chain. Impeccable Arcos Bosques. Paseo de Tamarindos enjoys international recognition and a arrangements, furniture and home décor customer service. 90, Bosques de las Lomas; presence in more than ten countries. objects to stationery, jewelry and bags. 9135 0234; pennylane.com.mx; They also have an exquisite line of The repertoire is predominantly feminine, Distrito Capital FB: Penny Lane. accessories, jewelry and bags. but you can find some original gifts for Juan Salvador Agraz 37, Santa Fe; After dark, this restaurant and bowling the man in your life. 5257 1300; hoteldistritocapital.com. alley turns into a bar. The décor is Blend Fantastic retro furniture, complemented reminiscent of the Beatles era, but not Palmas 520, Lomas de Chapultepec; Silver Deer with a modernist style and bold so the selection of pop music. You can 5202 1043; blendmexico.com; Park Plaza. Javier Barros Sierra 540, contemporary art. order cocktails in the bowling area or @Blendmexico, Lomas de Santa Fe; bowling packages that include a bottle. FB: Blend México. 5292 9587; thesilverdeer.com; Live Aqua Bosques A perfect fit if you want to remember If you’re thinking of redecorating, @SilverDeerStore; Paseo de Tamarindos 98, you younger self. this concept store is a great source FB: Silver Deer. Bosques de las Lomas; of inspiration: a showroom spanning Casual, stylish menswear. You’ll want to 9177 8400; liveaqua.com; Museums three floors, crammed with designs by team their jackets and overcoats with @liveaqua; FB: Live Aqua. Mexican and international brands like their amazing accessories: backpacks, One of the city’s newer hotels, Live Museo Nacional Poltrona Frau, Molt, MaMaison, Gramos wallets, handkerchiefs, scarves, socks, Aqua Bosques appeals to young de la Cartografía de conciencia and Hilando México. shoes, boots and ankle boots. executives with discerning palates. Av. Observatorio 94, Tacubaya; Totally addictive! The bar has a great atmosphere; the 5272 6686; sedena.gob.mx/pdf/ Saks Fifth Avenue restaurant is quite good, and there’s museocartografia.pdf. Cañamiel Centro Comercial Santa Fe. also a spa. Located in Tacubaya, right next Park Plaza. Javier Barros Sierra 540, Av. Vasco de Quiroga 3800, Santa Fe; to the busy Periférico bypass, the Lomas de Santa Fe; 5246 4800; saksfifthavenue.com; Sheraton Santa Fe National Cartography Museum’s 5292 3869; canamielmx.com; @saks; FB: SaksFifthAvenue. Guillermo González Camarena collection of rare and antique maps @Canamiel; The famous American department 200, Santa Fe; 5258 8500; has taken refuge in this old Franciscan FB: Cañamiel Concepto Latino. store that carries designers like Céline, starwoodhotels.com. monastery dating from 1686. The city’s first multi-brand store Alexander McQueen, Christian Louboutin The first hotel to open in Santa Fe is still carrying clothes, accessories and and others you won’t find anywhere else looking good. Its spacious rooms are Shopping jewelry by new and established in Mexico City. ideal for longer stays. designers from Mexico, Argentina and Bimba y Lola Brazil. Go for the women’s collections, Hotels Westin Santa Fe Centro Comercial Santa Fe, ground floor; but keep an eye on the menswear. Javier Barros Sierra 540, 2167 8250; Camino Real Lomas de Santa Fe; bimbaylola.com; @bimbaylola; Punto i Coma Guillermo González Camarena 300, 5089 8000; FB: BIMBA Y LOLA. Monte Himalaya 815, Lomas de Santa Fe; 5004 1616; starwoodhotels.com. Quality and originality are the Chapultepec; 2623 0288; puntoicoma. caminoreal.com; @CaminoReal; All the comfort of a Westin, with hallmarks of Uxía and María, nieces com; @puntoicoma; FB: PUNTOiCOMA. FB: Hoteles Camino Real. amazing views of the city and a of spanish fashion designer Adolfo This store has a little something The border post of the venerable spa to die for. Great meeting rooms.

60 west west 61 South P laza Hidalgo On foot Visiting the south of Mexico City is like Coyoacán Get an early start in Coyoacán on the corner of taking a trip back in time to colonial Allende and Londres. This blue house dating from days. Its cobblestone streets, squares colonial days is home to the works of the famous Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. Once the tourists begin to and beautiful old buildings make the flood the place, walk south along Allende and stop at the Coyoacán Market for a delicious tostada. Continue perfect backdrop to a culture-packed on to Jardín Centenario and Plaza Hidalgo, two side-by-side squares where you can buy handicrafts. day of museums, galleries, cultural If you take Higuera and continue south, you’ll come centers and tours. Still further south, in to Plaza Conchita. After you’ve had a quick cup of coffee in the square and time to catch your breath, Pedregal, are world-class restaurants take Carranza, which leads onto Francisco Sosa, a cobblestone street that will take you straight to the well worth sampling. National Audio Library, one of the city’s more unique cultural treasures.

south 63 Industria Circuito Interior Av. Río Churubusco Coyoacán

Matamoros Bruselas Juárez Coyoacán Bruselas A. Museo Frida Kahlo Madrid Madrid Abasolo B. Mercado de Coyoacán Ignacio Aldama Morelos C. Plaza Hidalgo Alumnos Viena D. Jardín Centenario E. Fonoteca Nacional A Londres Av. Universidad Berlín Vivero Coyoacán Ignacio Allende

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Ayuntamiento 64 poniente poniente 65 Restaurants Hats off to Chef Alberto Ituarte (Alaia, Puerto Getaria) for his new restaurant Café Ruta de la Seda down south. From the tapas menus, we Aurora 1, Barrio de Santa Catarina; recommend the crunchy beetroot with 3869 4888; caferutadelaseda.com; bass mousse, cochinita pibil croquettes FB: Café Ruta de la Seda. with beans or the oxtail tacos. If you’re This tiny restaurant is always packed, looking for something more “substantial”, but it’s worth waiting 45 minutes to taste try the incredible sweet saffron rice. their cardamom coffee and violet cake or to have breakfast. It has a wide variety L’encanto de Lola of tisanes and everything is made with Amargura 14, San Ángel; 5550 8429; C ultural E lena G arro C entro organic ingredients. encantodelola.tumblr.com; @encantodelola; FB: L’encanto De Lola. because it’s on the second floor and the a club where you can dance to the latest Doba Gourmet Quite probably the coolest sandwich bar entrance is pretty nondescript. The same, electro music. Order one of their gin and Avenida de las Fuentes 557, Jardines del in town, Lola’s pop décor is the perfect however, cannot be said about the food, tonics, and seal the deal with a plate of Pedregal; 6267 2274; dobagourmet.com. match for its psychedelic combos, like the which is as authentic as it gets: traditional buffalo wings. Kane opens at midnight on mx; @DobaGourmet; FB: Doba Gourmet. Jalapeño Philly (flank steak and cheddar). Japanese sashimi, sushi rolls, nigiri, mochi the dot, marking the beginning of a long, Gourmet home-cooked dishes served Just as sensational are the stuffed chili and noodles. crazy night. on a plant-filled terrace that smells pepper and porchetta varieties. Don’t of bread and books. You can drop forget to leave room for an apple fritter Bars Corazón de Maguey in for a cup of tea and a quiet read, and a shake. Jardín Centenario 9, Coyoacán; order molletes with goat’s cheese or Brooklyn Rooftop 5659 3165; corazondemaguey.com; chilaquiles with morita chili for breakfast Sud 777 Plaza Escenaria. San Jerónimo 263, @corazondemaguey; or dig into a risotto for lunch. Bulevar de la Luz 777, Jardines del Tizapán; 5550 5367; brooklyn.com.mx; FB: Corazón de Maguey. Pedregal; 5568 4777; sud777.com.mx; @Brooklyn_df; FB: Brooklyn Rooftop. The concept screams Oaxaca, but the Eloise @Sud777Mx; FB: Sud Pedregal. The house cocktails are good, but the décor is rustic, the details pre-Columbian Avenida Revolución 1527, San Ángel; What started out as a steakhouse has classics, like the mojito, are first-rate. A and the atmosphere bohemian. In other 5550 1692; eloise.rest; @eloiseresto. clearly become the canvas of chef Édgar great place for a drink and a bite before words, Coyoacán in a nutshell. And if the French chic and contemporary cuisine Núñez. We recommend the menu of the going clubbing. The mini hamburgers are artisan mescal doesn’t get you coming of the highest standard, from traditional month or week, meticulously put together so deliciously juicy you can easily find back every Saturday, the tlayudas topped onion soup with gruyère cheese to with an impressive choice of vegetables. room for another portion of three (you with tasajo (cured meat) most definitely sophisticated foie gras crème brûlée with know: to be prepared for the party later). will. arugula and passion fruit. Taro Av. Universidad 1861, Oxtopulco; Citizen Kane La Celestina Jerónimo 5661 4083; restaurantetaro.com; Avenida de la Paz 37, San Ángel; Caballocalco 14-A, Coyoacán; San Jerónimo 369, Tizapán; FB: Restaurante Taro. FB: Citizen - american kitchen bar -. 5554 8920; FB: La Celestina Coyoacán. 5550 5590; jeronimo.mx; It’s been going for several years, but Two in one. Citizen is an American diner For Spanish tapas, you can’t beat @Jeronimo_mx; FB: Jeronimo B&R. not many are in the know. Maybe that’s that opens in the afternoon, and Kane is this bar overlooking Coyoacán’s main

66 south south 67 square. A good selection of fine wines Rivera-Anahuacalli. SOMA make choosing a book all the more and house drinks, ideal for catching up Located in the less touristy part Calle 13 núm. 25, San Pedro de los pleasurable. with friends who live down south or, of Coyoacán, Diego Rivera had this Pinos; 5277 4947; somamexico.org; as the name suggests, for hooking up. impressive residence-cum-temple @SOMAmexico; FB: Soma México. Happening Store The best time to come is on weekends, built to house his collection of over A debate, research and consultancy Madero 10-C, San Ángel; 5550 8971; when things liven up with guest djs. 59,000 pre-Columbian artifacts. forum where artists can get together happeningstore.tumblr.com; On Day of the Dead, a huge altar and bounce ideas off one another. @happeningmx; FB: Happening Store. Santa Solita is erected in Rivera’s memory. “Wednesdays at SOMA” are classics: Located in San Ángel, one of the city’s Madero 16-B, Tlalpan; round tables, talks by artists, more picturesque districts, Happening 6306 0198; @SantaSolita; Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño book presentations, music events Store carries a good multi-brand FB: Pulquería La Santa Solita. Av. México 5843, La Noria; and art projects. selection, while showcasing new, local Dim lights, an intimate atmosphere and 5555 0891; museodoloresolmedo.org. designers. Choose from clothes, shoes, stone walls, right bang in the center of mx; @DoloresOlmedo; Shopping accessories, bags and curios. Tlalpan. Santa Solita’s organic pulques FB: Museo Dolores Olmedo. are made with fruit and vegetables Dolores Olmedo was a Bazar del Sábado Mercado del Carmen harvested in Xochimilco. Perfect for a businesswoman, but she was also Plaza San Jacinto, San Ángel; Amargura 5, San Ángel; quiet night out with friends or take your an art lover, and her personal Saturdays, 11 am to 4 pm approx. mercadodelcarmen.mx; @mercdelcarmen; date up to the second floor. collection boasts more works by You can find practically everything at this FB: Mercado Del Carmen. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera than open-air market, from leather and ceramic This market in San Ángel promotes Museums any other in the world, as well as goods to paintings, sculptures and clothes independent trade in the area. More over 900 archaeological artifacts made by talented artisans. than 20 producers display their wares Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil and popular Mexican art objects. in a rambling colonial-style mansion, Revolución 1608, San Ángel; Centro Cultural Elena Garro from herbal infusions, organic products, 8647 5450; museodeartecarrillogil.com; Museo Universitario Arte Fernández Leal 43, Coyoacán; conaculta. chocolate and cold cuts to pastries and @Carrillo_Gil; Contemporáneo (muac) gob.mx/elena-garro. ice-cream. In addition to the culinary FB: Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil. Centro Cultural Universitario. Insurgentes A fabulous bookstore whose striking delights, you can find handicrafts from Álvar Carrillo Gil was a pediatrician from Sur 3000, Ciudad Universitaria; 5622 architecture and landscaped gardens Chiapas and designer clothes. Yucatán who left behind a collection 6972; muac.unam.mx; @muac_unam; of paintings, engravings, lithographs, FB: Museo Universitario Arte collages, photographs, sculptures, Contemporáneo. Luxury Shopping in Altavista installation and object art so large it Designed by architect Teodoro Many refer to it as the “Masaryk of the South”, but shopping in Altavista is actually merited a museum of its own. The González de León, this glass-and- a whole different experience. For instance, Altavista 147 (the name is the same as children’s workshops get an A plus. concrete building is an ode to the its address) is a compact mall where you can purchase luxury items discreetly, with works of contemporary art waiting to no unnecessary flapping around. Back-to-back are boutiques selling the world’s top Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli be discovered inside. Far from off- brands: Louis Vuitton, Carolina Herrera, Vilebrequin and Tane if you’re looking for Museo 150, San Pablo Tepetlapa; putting, its spaces mold organically jewelry. The advantage is that there are plenty of restaurants nearby where you can 5617 4310; museoanahuacalli.org.mx; to the international expos that are rest those weary feet and refuel once you’re done with the shopping spree (that may @anahuacalli; FB: Museo Diego regularly shown here. very well continue in the furniture stores down the road).

68 south south 69 L5 RÍO DE LOS REMEDIOS RÍO DE LOS REMEDIOS L3 TENAYUCA MARIO COLÍN 5 de Mayo

314New’s Memorial Divine El Coyol Sanla José Escalera de LA PATERA Preparatoria 3

Tres AnegasJúpiter Progreso Nacional EJE 5 NORTE (AV. MONTEVIDEO) L1 Vasco de Quiroga EJE 5 NORTE INDIOS VERDES

Deportivo 18 de Marzo Talismán Poniente 146 Magdalena de las Salinas EJE 4 NORTE Montevideo Coltongo Euzkaro Victoria Poniente 134 CUITLÁHUAC San Juan de Aragón Potrero Oriente 101 Poniente 128 Río de Guadalupe EJE 3 NORTE Héroe de Nacozari La Raza Hospital La Raza CIRCUITO INTERIOR Circuito Tolnáhuac CIRCUITO INTERIOR San Simón Tlatelolco AEROPUERTO T1

ANILLO DE CIRCUNVALACIÓN ANILLO Río Santa Coleta Dep. Eduardo Molina Ricardo Manuel González Río Consulado Flores Magón Mercado Morelos Guerrero BUENAVISTA Canal del Norte Archivo General L4 de la Nación L4 I Y II Teatro BlanquitaRepúblicaRepública Mixcalco L5 El Chopo Mina de Chilede Argentina AEROPUERTO T2 Delegación SAN LÁZARO Cuauhtémoc Revolución PuenteMuseo de ochimilco Hidalgo Bellas Morelos AlvaradoSan Carlos Artes TeatroPueblo del Ferrocarril X de Cintura Plaza de la República de la Nación Archivo General

Reforma Plaza de TEPALCATES PASEO DE LA REFORMA la República

Plaza Isabel la Museo de Eduardo Molina Nicolás Bravo Hamburgo Juárez San Juan Eje CentralEl SalvadorCatólica la CiudadLas CrucesCircunvalación Canal de Reforma by Bike Moctezuma San Juan Other Outings INSURGENTES Balderas On Sundays, Paseo de la Reforma NUEVO LEÓN JOSÉ MARÍA IZAZAGA Durango Cuauhtémoc L2 Río Frío Hospital Vocacional 5 Vocacional Jardín Pushkin Charrería becomes a huge bicicle lane. You can Álvaro Obregón Las CrucesLa Merced Expo Reforma Pino Suárez Balbuena General A. Cecilio Robelo

Glorieta Glorieta de Colón Hospital General Mercado Sonora ROJO GÓMEZ de León Traditional feats of skill and daring cycle from Polanco to the Historic Sonora IZTACALCO Patriotismo

Parque Lira El Rodeo De La Salle De Dr. Márquez AndrésLa VigaCoyuyaCanelaTlacotal Campeche Molina few tourists get to witness. Rancho Center without having to worry about Constitución de VIADUCTO Centro Médico Apatzingán Chilpancingo Obrero Mundial del Charro, in the third section of being mowed down. If you don’t own a EJE 4 SUR (XOLA) Goma UPIICSA Chapultepec Park, puts on shows bicycle, borrow one from the Mexico City Río Mayo Del Moral Antonio Río Tecolutla CCH Oriente Maceo Xola Escandón Leyes de Reforma Álamos intermittently throughout the year. cycle station system or use an Ecobici Amores Viaducto Nuevo León Vértiz Dr. TACUBAYA La Piedad Las Américas Las Rancho del Charro Javier Rojo Gómez: (ecobici.df.gob.mx), but don’t forget these L2 Centro SCOP CHURUBUSCO Polyfórum PERIFÉRICO Constituyentes 500, puerta 4, Bosque are limited to 45-minute trips. Nápoles ETIOPÍA / PLAZA DE ETIOPÍA / PLAZA Ciudad de LA TRANSPARENCIA los Deportes Colonia L3 de Chapultepec-Tercera Sección; 5277 del Valle CALZADA DE TLALPAN 8706; asociacionnacionaldecharros.com. Xochimilco CENTRAL EJE Xochimilco is totally unlike anywhere Parque Hundido CHURUBUSCO Desierto de los Leones else in the city. These floating gardens Félix Cuevas Jose María Velasco The pièce de la resistance of this are laced with canals that are best Río Churubusco

national park is its old convent dating explored by boat. Rent your own and Teatro Insurgentes Francia

from 1705. Guided tours are available, don’t worry if you’ve forgotten to bring Olivo given by actors dressed up as historic along provisions, because trajineras Altavista figures who fill visitors in on local lore offering food, drink and live music will DR. GÁLVEZ 1 El Caminero-Indios Verdes La Bombilla and legend, while the park’s natural row up alongside you. Excursions to the 2 Tacubaya-Tepalcates Centro Cultural Ciudad Universitario 3 Etiopía/Plaza de la areas are popular among cyclists and rural part of the canal system last just PERIFÉRICO Universitaria Transaparencia-Tenayuca trekkers. Parque Nacional Desierto de over four hours. Ask your oarsman to Perisur 4 Buenavista-Aeropuerto T1/T2 los Leones; 5814 1100, ext. 2183, take you to the spine-chilling, but totally 5 San Lázaro-Río de los Remedios 5812, 0921; daily, 6 am-5 pm (park), inoffensive Doll Island. Any taxi driver Villa Olímpica Corregidora Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am-5 pm should know how to get to the docks. Sistema de 1 2 3 4 Ayuntamiento (former convent). We recommend Cuemanco. Transporte 5 6 7 8 Colectivo Metro Fuentes Brotantes Santa Úrsula 71 La Joya EL CAMINERO 9 12 A B 70 other outings L1