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TRAVEL WITH FRIENDS IN 2013

Moscow to the Black Sea

LITERATURE AND THE ARTS IN AND UKRAINE

with Dr Rosamund Bartlett 11–27 May 2013 (17 days) Tour to the Black Sea leader

Join international Russian literary scholar Rosamund Bartlett for an ‘off-the- beaten track’ journey from Moscow to the Black Sea with a special focus on the literature of Russia. Beginning in the dynamic capital, Moscow, you will then explore the cultural heartland of Russia to the south of Moscow, visiting the estates and country houses of the great Russian writers of the 19th century – Chekhov, Tolstoy, Turgenev, Leskov and Bunin – plus the ancient monastery of Optina Pustyn and the country house of the artist Vasily Polenov. Enjoy a full week around the Black Sea, exploring the exotic cities of and Odessa, each with its own rich literary and cultural heritage.

Rosamund Bartlett is the well-known author of Great Russian Writers biographies of Chekhov and Tolstoy, and other books on Russian music and literature. She has also achieved renown as a translator. A recent Fernand Braudel Fellow at the European University Institute, she is currently Honorary Associate in the School of Literatures and Cultures at the University of Sydney, and Ivan Turgenev (1818 -1883) Leo Tolstoy (1828 - 1910) Nikolai Leskov (1831 - 1895) (1860 - 1904) in 2010 was awarded the Chekhov 150th Anniversary Medal by the Russian government for her work promoting Chekhov’s legacy. At a glance • Comprehensive stays in Moscow, Yalta and Odessa • Visits to the homes, country estates and sites associated with the great Russian writers “I am excited to be accompanying • Russian countryside in the spring this tour, taking us from the • Visits to the Old Tretyakov, Pushkin and Odessa fine arts museums ancient Slav capital of Moscow, • Opera, ballet and/or concerts in Moscow and Odessa seen as the ‘Third Rome’ after the fall of Byzantium, to the cosmopolitan city of Odessa, founded by Catherine the Great as part of her plan to Moscow reconquer Constantinople. The grandeur of these cities will be balanced by the more intimate Moscow surroundings of the homes of Kaluga POLAND BELARUS Tula Russia’s great writers, and the austere and majestic landscapes RUSSIA which inspired them”. Rosamund Bartlett UKRAINE SLOVAKIA MOLDOVA Kherson HUNGARY Odessa Sea Fly ROMANIA of Azov Coach Map is a guide only Yalta Sea of Azov YUGOSLAVIA BULGARIA Black Sea GEORGIA MACEDONIA ARMENIABlack Sea AZERBAIJAN GREECE TURKEY Itinerary

Fri 10 May 2013 Depart Australia Tue 14 May Moscow Depart Australia on Singapore Airlines (via Singapore). Today will be spent in Moscow’s two main art galleries. Begin with the Old Tretyakov Gallery, devoted to the history of Russian Art, Overnight in flight. ranging from precious medieval icons to the Russian School of the Sat 11 May Arrive Moscow late 19th century. After lunch, continue to the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, with an impressive collection of Western Art, particularly Mid-morning arrival and transfer to your hotel. its substantial holdings of luminous Impressionist and Post- This evening, join Rosamund Bartlett and fellow travellers for a Impressionist paintings. B L welcome briefing and dinner. D Wed 15 May Moscow Sun 12 May Moscow Enjoy a morning tour of places of literary significance. See or visit Enjoy a morning tour of Moscow which will introduce you to the the Moscow homes of Tolstoy, Chekhov and Gorky, now preserved vibrant capital of Russia. See Red Square and St Basil’s Cathedral, as house-museums. Finish at the Patriarch’s Pond, indelibly the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, the Russian ‘White House’, the associated with Bulgakov’s satirical fantasy The Master and Margarita. former KGB headquarters and stop at Sparrow Hills near Moscow Afternoon at leisure to further Moscow on your own. This evening, University for a panoramic view over the city dominated by the attend a concert at one of Moscow’s several renowned performing famous Stalinist ‘skyscrapers’. venues (subject to performance schedules announced 3–4 months During the day you will visit the tranquil enclosure of the beautiful prior. B L Novodevichy Convent where many famous Russian political and cultural figures are buried, and the Tolstoy Estate-Museum, the Thu 16 May Moscow – Tula writer’s winter during the 1880s and 1890s. B L This morning you depart Moscow for a fascinating four-day journey by coach through the bucolic countryside to the south of Moscow, Mon 13 May Moscow much favoured by the aristocracy and literary elite who built their Morning tour of the , the historic heart of Moscow. Its many country estates here in the 19th and early 20th centuries. This area treasures include the sumptuous interior of the Cathedral of the is rarely visited by foreign travellers and you will be able to observe Assumption, the more intimate Cathedral of the Annunciation, the Russian agriculture and country life away from the big cities. Bell Tower of Ivan the Great and the Armoury Museum, with its Today will be spent on a leisurely full day’s drive (180km) to Tula. famous collection of Fabergé eggs, just one aspect of an astonishing En route, stop in the of Melikhovo to visit the estate where array of glittering jewels, robes, thrones and carriages, a telling Anton Chekhov lived from 1892–1899 and where he created reminder of the one time opulence of the Romanov Dynasty. more than 40 literary works, including The Sea Gull and . Afternoon at leisure to explore nearby Red Square, GUM Continue via the country estate of Russian painter Vasily Polenov Department store and the Kitay Gorod area. This evening, enjoy (1844–1927) to Tula, arriving late afternoon. B L D a ballet or opera performance at the Bolshoi Theatre, which has just re-opened after a decade-long reconstruction (subject to performance schedules announced 3–4 months prior). B

Kremlin, Moscow at night Bolshoi Theatre, Moscow Fri 17 May Tula – Oryol After the Russian Revolution the monastery was declared a gulag. Morning visit to Yasnaya Polyana, the family country estate of Leo With the beginning of Perestroika, Optina Pustyn was one of the Tolstoy. Born here is 1828, Tolstoy settled here after his marriage in first monasteries to be returned to the Russian Orthodox Church. 1862 until his death in 1910. Many of his most famous novels were Continue to Kaluga (60km, 1 hr) for overnight. B L D written here, including War and Peace and Anna Karenina. After lunch, drive to Oryol (187km, approx 3–4 hrs). Founded Mon 20 May Kaluga – Moscow – Yalta in 1566 as a fortress against the Tatars, Oryol (meaning ‘eagle’) is Morning drive from Kaluga to Moscow Domodedovo Airport located on the River and reached its peak during the 19th (170km, approx 3–4 hrs) for an afternoon flight (2 hrs) to century, when a large number of the gentry lived here. Literary Simferopol, the airport for the Crimean Peninsula (NB. 20 kg associations abound: Ivan Turgenev and Leonid Andreev were born luggage allowance). On arrival, transfer to Yalta (70km, 1 hr). here, Nikolai Leskov spent his early childhood here and Ivan Bunin, Superbly situated on a deep bay facing south towards the Black who came to the town in 1889 to work at a local newspaper as a Sea and surrounded by wooded mountains, Yalta enjoys a warm copy editor, later provided a precise description of Oryol in one of Mediterranean climate. In the 19th century, the town became a his novels. B D fashionable resort for the Russian aristocracy and gentry. Tolstoy spent summers there and Chekhov in 1898 bought a house where Sat 18 May Oryol he lived till 1902. In 1889 Tsar Alexander III finished construction Begin with a visit to Spasskoye-Lutovinovo, the country estate of of Massandra Palace a short distance to the north of Yalta and Turgenev (1818–1883). It was here that Turgenev wrote most of his Nicholas II built the Livadia Palace south-west of the town in 1911. works, in which descriptions of the Spasskoye house and park take A favoured resort of the Soviet elite during the 20th century, up many pages, albeit in disguise. Life in the neighbouring estates the town came to worldwide attention in 1945 when the Yalta is also mirrored in his writing. After years of neglect under Soviet Conference between the ‘Big Three’ powers (Soviet Union, United rule, the estate was reopened as a museum in the 1970s. The house States and Great Britain) was held at the Livadia Palace. B D is surrounded by a park of 40 hectares with a pond, ancient trees and avenues. Tue 21 May Yalta Continue to the house-museum of Leskov (1831–1895), the novelist, During a full-day tour of Yalta, see the Embankment, Vorontsovsky short story writer, and journalist. His major works include The Palace, Swallow’s Nest, the Church of the Immaculate Conception, Enchanted Wanderer and Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk (later made into Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the Mooresque palace of the an opera by Shostakovtich). Bukhara Emir and the Livadia Palace. You will also see the bench immortalised in Chekhov’s Lady with a Little Dog at Oreanda. B L Finish with a visit to the house-museum of Bunin (1870–1953),t the first Russian writer to win the Nobel Prize for Literature and best Wed 22 May Yalta known for, his autobiographical novel The Life of Arseniev. B L Discover the deep connection between Chekhov and Yalta with a Sun 19 May Oryol – Kaluga visit to the Chekhov House-Museum in the Yalta suburb of Autka. Known as the White Dacha, Chekhov’s house in Yalta became a Morning drive from Oryol to Kozelsk (240km, approx 3–4 hrs). magnet for other Russian writers of his day such as Bunin, Gorky and In the afternoon, visit the nearby Russian Orthodoxy Monastery Kuprin, and for musicians such as Rachmaninov and the great singer at Optina Pustyn. In the 19th century, the Optina was the most Chaliapin. Chekhov wrote The and important spiritual centre of the Russian Orthodox Church and here, escaping when necessary to peace and quiet at his smaller dacha served as the model for the nearby Shamordino Convent. It was perched on the bay at Gursuf, a few kilometres down the coast. particularly renowned for its tradition of ‘Elders’, whose words In the afternoon visit the Nikitsky Botanical Garden. Founded by of wisdom were particular sought by Russia’s writers, including Christian Steven in 1812, the garden is believed to be the oldest botanical Gogol and Tolstoy. Zosima in Dostoevsky’s last novel The Brothers garden in the world and covers an area of 1100 hectares. B L Karamazov is modelled on an Optina Pustyn Elder.

Spasskoye Lutovinovo, Oryol Optina Pustyn Monastery Thu 23 May Yalta – Kherson In the afternoon, visit the Museum of Western and Oriental Arts, Morning departure from Yalta for a full day’s drive to Kherson which houses a fine collection of European art including works (440km, 9–10 hrs), stopping on the way to visit the Khan’s Palace by Franz Hals, Caravaggio, Strozzi, Magnasco, Michelangelo and at Bakhchysarai. Rubens, along with sculptures and ceramics from Iran, Tibet, China and Japan. The Khan’s Palace, or Hansaray, was built in the 16th century and became home to a succession of Crimean Khans. The walled This evening, attend an opera or ballet performance at the enclosure contains a mosque, a harem, a cemetery, living quarters grand Odessa Opera House (subject to performance schedules and gardens. First mentioned 1502, Bakhchysarai, was established announced 1–2 months prior). B L as the new khan’s residence by the Crimean Khan Sahib I Giray in 1532 and was the capital of the Crimean Khanate and the centre Sun 26 May Odessa of political and cultural life of the Crimean Tatar people until the Following a talk on the history and literature of Odessa, continue Sürgün (deportation on 18 May 1944). your exploration of Odessa with a morning visit to the Catacombs, originally created during the quarrying of limestone for the building Continue to Kherson, arriving in the late afternoon. B L of Odessa, but later variously used by criminals and WWII partisans. Fri 24 May Kherson – Odessa Later, visit the Literary and Jewish Museums which, respectively, During a morning tour of Kherson drive along Ushakova Avenue, celebrate Odessa’s rich literary and Jewish associations. During visit the Assumption and St Catherine Cathedrals and see the second half of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th Aleksanderschanz Fortress, the Arsenal, the Episcopal House and century, Odessa had the third largest Jewish population in the world monuments to the first ships, Prince Potemkin and John Howard (after New York and Warsaw) and was home to numerous Jewish (1726 – 1790) English lawyer, philanthropist and the first England writers and poets including the acclaimed Isaac Babel. prison reformer, researcher of mass infectious diseases in Europe. This evening, celebrate the conclusion of the tour with a special In the afternoon, drive to Odessa (215km, 3–4 hrs). farewell dinner. B D Often referred to as the ‘Pearl of the Black Sea’, Odessa was Mon 27 May Depart Odessa founded by a decree of Catherine the Great in 1794 as part of Transfer to the airport for morning departure on Turkish Airlines her ambitious plans to extend Russia’s horizons. From 1819 to to Istanbul (1 hr 30 min), connecting with Singapore Airlines flights 1858 Odessa was a free port. In the 19th century it was the fourth via Singapore. B largest city of Imperial Russia, after Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Warsaw. An energetic, cosmopolitan, Mediterranean-style city, its Wed 28 May Arrival Australia architecture has been heavily influenced by French and Italian styles, Evening arrival in Australia. with a mixture of Art Nouveau, Renaissance and Classical styles. Visitors are invariably impressed by Odessa’s scenic boulevards, rich art and culture and famous Opera House. B D Sat 25 May Odessa Begin your exploration of Odessa at the Potemkin Stairs, the formal entrance into the city from the sea. Continue along Primorsky Boulevard past the City Hall to Vorontsov’s Palace and its Colonnade. In the city, see the Opera House, the monuments to Pushkin and Richelieu, the Tolstoy Palace and Gogol’s house.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Yalta Livadia Palace, Yalta Tour Prices Per person, twin-share AUD 8,250 Single supplement* AUD 1,500 Deposit (per person) AUD 500 Final payment due 12 March 2013 *Single travellers may request to share. Please advise at time of booking.

Suggested Airline Singapore/Turkish Airlines Australia – Singapore – Moscow/Odessa – Istanbul – Singapore – Australia Economy from AUD 2,500 including taxes plus approx AUD 220 for Turkish Airlines. Please contact Renaissance Tours for current fares and bookings.

Tour code AG1305 Visas All visitors to Russia require a visa. Renaissance Tours will organise the visas for tour members. Tour prices include • Sixteen (16) nights accommodation in centrally located hotels with daily breakfast B • Meals as per itinerary ( L =Lunch, D =Dinner) including welcome and farewell dinners. Wine with dinners. • Transfers on arrival and departure, if travelling on suggested Bell Tower of Ivan the Great, Kremlin, Moscow group flights • Transportation in comfortable air-conditioned coaches • Comprehensive sightseeing and visits, including entrance fees as per itinerary • Economy class flight Moscow – Simferopol (NB. 20kg luggage allowance) • A-reserve tickets to three performances • Lectures and talks with your tour leader throughout • Visa for Russia • Gratuities for local guides and drivers • Hotel porterage (1 piece per person) Tour price does not include • International airfares • Transfers on arrival and departure, if not travelling suggested group flights • Drinks with lunches • Items of a personal nature, including telephone, laundry, room service etc • Travel insurance • Airport porterage

Your hotels + and  Moscow – Peter Ist Hotel Tula – Yasnaya Polyana Oryol – Grinn Kaluga – Kaluga Plaza Yalta – Oreanda Kherson – Diligence Odessa – Mozart N.B. Hotels of a similar standard may be substituted.

Optina Pustyn Monastery Terms & Conditions

How to Book The above cancellation charges include Travel Insurance Complete, sign and return the Booking Form applicable GST. It is a condition of travel that you are available from Renaissance Tours with your covered by comprehensive travel In addition to the above, cancellation deposit and page one of your passport. insurance for international tours. Your charges may apply for additional travel insurance can be arranged by arrangements booked by Renaissance Deposit / Final Payments Renaissance Tours. Your deposit is due at the time of Tours, such as air tickets, hotels and travel booking and is used to pay hotel, airline, insurance premium. If the reason for Fitness and Participation performance tickets and/or other cancellation is covered by the insurance For the overall benefit of the group, all tour deposits. It is non-refundable in the event policy, you may be able to reclaim these members must possess a moderate level of of your cancellation. charges. mobility, including the ability to: Final payment is due 60 days before b) Cancellation by Us - We reserve • negotiate airports and railway stations departure. Failure to make the final the right to cancel a tour for any reason without wheelchair assistance payment by the due date may result in (such as failure to reach minimum tour • use combined shower/bath facilities (it is cancellation of your booking and loss participant numbers). Except for force impossible to guarantee walk-in shower of deposit. majeure, we will not cancel a tour less than facilities) 60 days before departure. No further • undertake walking tour of 2-3 hours Payments are accepted in cash and by compensation will be paid in the event of duration, including using stairs, walking cheque, bank transfer, American Express, cancellation by Renaissance Tours. A full over cobblestones and other uneven Diners Club, MasterCard and Visa. A 3% refund of monies paid for tour costs will be surfaces service charge applies for payment by the full extent of our liability. • stand for long periods in museums and American Express and Diners Club. Cancellation and/or amendment fees may other sites Cancellation & Refunds apply for additional travel arrangements • embark / disembark coaches, trains and a) Cancellation by You - Cancellation booked by Renaissance Tours. other methods of transportation without charges will be applied as shown below, assistance calculated from the day written notification Passports, Visas and Vaccinations • handle your own luggage All travellers must be in a possession of a is received by Renaissance Tours. In If you (or we) have any doubts about your valid passport – most countries require a addition to cancellation fees for tours ability to participate in your chosen tour, 6-month validity from your date of entry operated by Renaissance Tours as shown you may be required to have a doctor’s or exit. For some countries (e.g. China, below, airlines, hotels and other third appraisal. This would require a doctor to Vietnam, India, Russia), visas are included parties may impose up to 100% cancellation read the itinerary of your chosen tour and in the tour cost and will be arranged by charges. provide you with a written confirmation of Renaissance Tours prior to travel. For other your ability to participate. 60 days or more Forfeit of deposit countries, it is your responsibility to ensure 59 – 45 days 25% of tour cost you have the appropriate visa(s). Terms & Conditions You can find the full terms & conditions on 44 – 31 days 50% of tour cost You are also responsible for obtaining all necessary inoculations and preventative the Renaissance Tours booking form. They 30 – 15 days 75% of tour cost medicines as may be required for the can also be found at www.renaissancetours. duration of the tour. com.au or we would be happy to post you Less than 15 days 100% of tour cost a copy on request.

Khan’s Palace, Bakhchysarai Vorontsov’s Palace, Odessa TRAVEL WITH FRIENDS IN 2013

Front cover: Lastochkino Gnezdo, Yalta Back cover: Primorsky Boulevard, Odessa

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