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Home , Mount Katahdin

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t Spirit of the

There’s an ancient magic in ’s highest mountain.

By Colin W. Sargent

Modern Myths of Gluskap, creator of the Earth? Whatever made their way to its base by canoe, guid- hether or not they’ve heard your choice of spirits, the aspect of the su- ed by an old Indian man named Louis Nep- the song “Climb Ev’ry Moun- pernatural is strong. tune, who advised Thoreau to leave a bottle Wtain,” some na- In a piece for Sierra Magazine, Jason of rum on top of the mountain to appease tives are shy about climbing to the top of Mark points to Robert Moor’s book On the mountain spirit.” Mount Katahdin. for an elevated example of the sub- Thoreau and his party “got lost in the That’s because it’s holy ground. lime as well as the tension that existed be- fog and never made it to the summit,” ac- Is it Wuchhosen, the wind bird, who tween Penobscot guides and the rusticating cording to Moor. lives up there, flapping his wings to create explorers who employed them. “In 1846, Time has erased the trifling detail of great storms? Or is it the Spirit of Katahdin, made a failed bid to who ended up with the the rum. jealous of his solitude. Or is it the dominion climb Mount Katahdin, the highest peak in But Moor notes that while descen-

the state of Maine. He and two companions ing, alarmed by the savage majesty of the my S - Flickr A

1 2 4 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine Mountain

Ancient Connections

arry Dana grew up on the Penobscot entire area that makes up the mountain, River and currently works to teach from the top down to as far down as the BWabanaki culture to native youth to blueberry ledges, including all the designat- preserve the traditions of his people. We talk ed campgrounds. to the tribal leader about the spiritual signif- icance of the mountain for the . What are your personal feelings about the top of mountain’s hunched shoulders around Katahdin? Have you ever been there? him, Thoreau experienced a 150-proof in- What was your first impression of Katahdin, and why is the Yes, I’ve been to the top of Katahdin. I’ve sight. Sierra Magazine calls it a “meltdown”: summit so spiritually signifiant to Penobscots? climbed it in search of enlightenment, guid- “This was that Earth of which we have I first visited Mt. Katahdin as a freshman ed by my intuition. Indigenous cultures all heard, made out of Chaos and Old Night. in high school on a class trip. I was blown over the globe look to the mountains for Here was no man’s garden, but the unhand- away with what I saw and have returned spiritual insight. Too many explorers and selled globe. It was not lawn, nor pasture, every year to maintain that connection. climbers confuse this inner voice of moun- nor mead, nor woodland, nor lea, nor ara- Why would I agree to give, convey, or teach taintop connection with a need to “conquer” ble, nor wasteland…Man was not to be as- about that which is sacred to me and my the mountain. I think this to be unfortunate sociated with it. It was Matter, vast, terrif- people, the Wabanaki? Because if I don’t, because, should they not reach the peak, ic…rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks! the it will be even more likely that people will they feel as though they have failed. Too solid earth! the actual world! the common continue to disrespect the mountain. When much ego robs one of spiritual happiness. sense! Contact! Contact!” I say mountain, it’s not just the top but the (Continued on page 128)

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1 2 6 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine An iconic, one hundred year-old log lodge at water’s edge on Rangeley Lake

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Dining — Lodging – Weddings Mount Katahdin outlook Elevation: 5,269 feet Northern terminus of the Appalachian 23 fatalities since 1963 63,000 visitors per year to The name Katahdin comes from an Indian word that means “main mountain.”

Barry Dana with his daughter, Maulian Dana-Smith. “This is taken at Katahdin Stream Campground. We’d just just finished our annual ceremonial run to the mountain. Maulian did a relay run with her husband, Sean, from Indian Island. I hiked 100 miles from Monson to Katahdin. We finished at almost the exact same time. Maulian has made this annual ceremonial journey to Katahdin her entire life.”

Spirit of the Mountain (continued from page 125) In 1846, Louis Neptune advised Thoreau to bring a bottle of rum to place for the spirit at the top of the Katahdin Calls mountain. Why? By Haley Snyder We’ll never truly know why Louis Neptune aking up early is the name of the game when to the top of Katah- told Thoreau what he did, but I see it as a din. Parking spots are first come first serve, so 5:30a a.m. departure from word of caution. And a bottle of alcohol as your campsite is a necessity, as it’s a an offering? I have no idea! That makes no 45-minute drive to the base of Katah- sense and is definitely not in keeping with Wdin from the entrance to Baxter State Park. true native religious thinking. But Penob- If you’re looking for a relatively easier hike (rare as that is on Katahdin), park your scots are really good at playing tricks and car at Roaring Brook campground, where a three-mile hike to the breathtaking pulling your leg… Chimney Pond provides access to the 2.2-mile Saddle Trail, the least strenuous of all the trails. The most popular routes for day hikes are up the Cathedral Trail and down Can you tell me if it’s true that many members of the Hunt Trail, or just up and down the Hunt Trail, which is also part of the Appalachian the Penobscot Tribe refuse to climb to the very top Trail. The most famous–and dangerous–hike is known as the Knife Edge: a 1.1-mile of Katahdin? scramble between Pamola Peak and Baxter Peak on a trail that in certain sections is Why do we natives say not to go there? only 3 feet wide. It is this precipitous traverse that has claimed the most lives to date. Think about who we say it to: white people In all, since 1963, there have been 23 recorded deaths. who need to conquer a sacred place. That The weather is unpredictable, the terrain is demanding, and carrying a large does not lead to good karma. For my tribe, amount of water is crucial, but the from the top of Mount Katahdin we see Katahdin as the place of our birth, sweeping views where life began. It can’t get any more spe- are truly incomparable. cial than that. We still live within its shad- ow and honor our birth by returning to The old stories about not going to the top of ter State Park, nor do I view my home- the mountain. We go to the top if need be Katahdin were more of a caution. Be mind- land as “Maine.” So when asked, I can’t say for spiritual enlightenment and ceremo- ful of why you feel the need to be there. what or where is “authentic.” Maine is not a y barry dana; meaghan maurice ny, some simply for the pleasure that comes Keep an eye on the weather. place unto itself. This area that includes the s from looking out across so many hundreds ocean, rivers, lakes, and mountains is all ourte of miles. It’s medicine for the soul. But we What exact place in Maine is most authentic to you, and one living ecosystem dependant upon the C t: recognize that it is a mountain with an an- why? If there’s such a thing as a cradle of authenticity in whole in order to thrive. It’s one living or- f gry mood at times. It has its own weather– Maine, where and what would that be? ganism. We call it Wabanakigok: Land of rom le storms that can pop up without warning. I do not view Katahdin as part of Bax- the Rising Sun. n f

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