Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park Is the Highest Mountain in Maine
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At about 1,605 meters, Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park is the highest mountain in Maine. Credit: Bethany Augliere
Travels in Geology Exploring Maine’s Magnificent MOUNT KATAHDIN
Bethany Augliere
fter weeks of anticipation and which begins on Springer Mountain in an extra water bottle, food, an emergency constant checks of weather Georgia and crosses 14 states. After chat- blanket and extra layer of warm clothes, forecasts to find a day when ting with locals and park rangers, I got the and a small first aid kit. the skies were likely to be sense that no matter which of the routes We registered at the Roaring Brook Aclear, I decided the early fall morning had you take up the mountain, it’s a long hike Campground ranger station with our finally arrived to hike Mount Katahdin — and people tend to underestimate it. time of departure and planned route the highest mountain in Maine at 1,605 In early October, when my hiking up the mountain. It would be about a meters. I woke up at 5 a.m., crawled out companion, Nico, and I were there, tem- 15-kilometer round-trip journey, with of my sleeping bag, got dressed and turned peratures can drop to minus 6 degrees a 1,214-meter elevation gain. It was on my headlamp to begin the trek. Celsius at night. It’s not uncommon for 5:30 a.m., and three other hikers had Katahdin, pronounced “kuh-TAW-din,” people to get lost, or to start too late already started from this location. was named the “The Greatest Mountain” and end up hiking in the dark. In rare by the Penobscot Indians — a fitting desig- instances, visitors to Katahdin have trag- nation. It’s the crown jewel of Baxter State ically succumbed to the elements: Since Carved From Ice Park, more than 80,000 hectares of wil- 1926, 22 deaths have occurred on the At first glance, the jagged, treeless derness and public forest in north-central mountain. Even as an experienced hiker, mountain resembles a volcano. Its rock, Maine, and the northern terminus for the I took Katahdin’s reputation seriously. My part of a granite pluton, is indeed mag- 3,500-kilometer-long Appalachian Trail, pack included a 3-liter hydration bladder, matic in nature, having solidified before it
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reached Earth’s surface. In fact, it’s part of a laccolith — a mushroom-shaped granitic intrusion — that formed about 400 million years ago during the Acadian Orogeny, a major period of mountain building that affected the Appalachian chain from present-day Virginia to Newfoundland and lasted for 150 million years. This happened as the microcontinent Ava- lonia collided with North America at the leisurely rate of 5 kilometers per Chimney Pond is a small circular lake, called a tarn, found on the east side of Katahdin million years. and a 5.3-kilometer hike from Roaring Brook Campground. From here, hikers can view Over time, Katahdin has been shaped by the steep mountain slopes carved from glacial erosion. weathering and erosion, especially during Credit: Bethany Augliere glacial periods. Alpine glaciers carved deep bowl-shaped depressions, or cirques, into Between Baxter and Pamola peaks is a nar- Discovering the Park its flanks. Other glacial features such as ket- row 1.7-kilometer-long boulder-scramble On a trip to Baxter State Park last tle ponds, moraines and eskers are scattered along a glacial arête called the Knife Edge, summer, we explored some of the other throughout Baxter State Park. which, at points, is only a meter wide. This 320-plus kilometers of maintained trails Katahdin has five peaks: Howe, Hamlin, adventurous traverse was the primary rea- in the park, which has no running water, Pamola, South and Baxter, the summit. son I wanted to hike Katahdin. electricity or paved roads.
Katahdin Woods Baxter State Park and Waters National Monument
Roaring Brook Campground
Baxter CANADA Mount State Katahdin Park
Debsconeag Lakes Wilderness Area Appalachian Trail Bangor MAINE Appalachian Trail Millinocket
NEW HAMPSHIRE Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park is about 120 kilometers from Bangor, Maine. Credit: both: K. Canter, AGI
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A view of the rock highway, a large granite slab with cascading water, at Blueberry Ledges, a 6.75-kilometer out-and-back trail in Baxter State Park. Credit: Bethany Augliere
The rugged nature of the park is main- tained “for those who love nature and are willing to walk and make an effort to get close to nature,” as park donor and former Maine Governor Percival P. Baxter put it. He purchased the land in 1931 to protect it from logging and deeded it to the state with instructions that it “shall forever be retained and used for state forest, public park, and recreational purposes … shall forever be kept and remain in a natural wild state … [and] shall forever be kept and remain as a sanctuary for beasts and birds.” An easy trek along the Ice Cave Trail ends at a pile of boulders where hikers can climb Being one end of the Appalachian down into a cool cave with patches of snow and ice left over from the previous winter. Trail, the state park is known for its Credit: Bethany Augliere
A view of Katahdin and whitewater rafters on the Penobscot River from the Abol Bridge. Credit: Bethany Augliere
page 44 • March 2017 • EARTH • www.earthmagazine.org Feature hiking, but it also offers plenty of other aspen and birch trees. At the end, the options. Visitors can whitewater raft, or trees opened up to flat slabs of granite, canoe, if a more leisurely pace is desired, forming rock highways flanked by blue- down the Penobscot River. Berry-picking berry bushes. We lay in the water to cool is a very popular activity in the summer, off, ate blueberries, and walked around as is moose-viewing at Sandy Stream the cascading stream. We had this spot Pond and other wildlife watching. Addi- to ourselves — a degree of solitude can be tionally, a short drive away is one of a hard thing to find at other parks, like America’s newest national park sites — nearby Acadia National Park. Katahdin Woods and Waters National After drying off in the sun, we packed A black bear just below the Knife Edge. Monument — designated by President up to visit our next stop: ice caves. This was Credit: Bethany Augliere Obama on Aug. 23, 2016. a quick and flat 4.8-kilometer round-trip But we were there to hike, so we found hike in the Debsconeag Lakes Wilderness not melt. The main room is large enough a couple of trails we could follow for Area, owned by the Nature Conservancy to stand in, but a recent collapse now a day to take in some great views and and adjacent to the state park. This area prevents even experienced cavers from potentially spot some moose. contains the highest concentration of pris- penetrating farther. tine ponds in New England, and thousands After two hikes, we were done for the of hectares of mature forest. day. Happy with our initial exploration of The trail to the ice caves meandered the park, we decided to return again to through tall pines and moss-coated boul- summit Katahdin. ders, with a mild elevation gain. Eventually we reached the caves’ entrance tucked away among a giant boul- The Climb der garden. The ice caves are actually just After that first visit to Baxter State open spaces amid the boulders of a talus Park, I spent a month poring over maps slope — rocks cleaved off nearby cliffs and trail guides to determine our route during the last glaciation — piled together up Katahdin and watching the weather such that they create cave-like features. forecast for a clear weekend. There are We approached the “cave” opening many paths up the mountain, some easier and climbed down steel rungs into the than others. It’s not a technical climb, Scrambling over rocks on the Cathedral chilly room, quickly realizing how the requiring expertise, but it does require Trail, a 2.8-kilometer journey to reach the cave gets its name: It stays so cool that endurance and a fair bit of scrambling summit at Baxter Peak. ice and snow from the winter months do over rocks. And because we wanted to Credit: Nico Ientile
Trails in Baxter For our first stop, we decided to explore Blueberry Ledges, a 6.75-kilo- meter round-trip hike. To get there, we turned off the main road into the park for the Golden Road, a logging road that is marked by a giant painted rock. We followed this dirt road for 16 kilometers, scanning the ponds for moose along the way (alas, we didn’t see any). The hike began on the Appalachian Trail. We crossed a small bridge over a section of Abol Stream, with a view of Katahdin towering over the valley. The beginning of Blueberry Ledges Baxter State Park as seen from the summit of Katahdin. was a narrow path through stands of Credit: Bethany Augliere
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The Knife Edge Trail traverses between Baxter and Pamola peaks Hikers descend “The Chimney,” a 24-meter scramble down a rock along the apex of a sharp-crested ridge, or arête. wall crevice, and the most challenging part of the Knife Edge Trail. Credit: Bethany Augliere Credit: Bethany Augliere traverse the Knife Edge, we had to go on arrived at Chimney Pond, a small circular no time becoming difficult: The first a day when the weather was cooperating lake in the basin of a cirque called a tarn. move over a giant boulder required me with relatively low winds. Maple trees with yellow leaves mixed to stretch and twist my body to clamber We finally found the right weekend in among evergreens encircled the clear, over the rock, and it was more of the same early October — before the park closed to glassy water — it was still prime leaf-peep- for the next three hours — be forewarned, climbing for the winter — and headed out. ing season in the Maine woods — while this isn’t a trail for the faint of heart. Nico and I camped in the park so we Katahdin dominated the background. I occasionally stopped to glimpse the could get an early start and planned a The gorgeous scene notwithstanding, view behind me, which included a steady loop trail. We began on the Chimney and with the path ahead in mind, I was stream of hikers making their way up the Pond Trail, a moderate 5.3-kilometer anxious to keep going. trail. Chimney Pond grew smaller and rocky path with a gradual incline through After a short amble through the farther away, additional peaks emerged a fir-dominated forest. In the dark of the woods, we reached an opening and saw in the distance, and I saw more lakes and early morning, the rushing sound of the the Cathedral Trail: a steep climb directly ponds dotting the fiery red, orange and river to our right was amplified. The sun- up the side of the mountain, which would yellow landscape. My legs, meanwhile, rise behind us slowly peeked through the quickly bring us above treeline. There are grew heavier and heavier. clouds and lit up the sky. The rocky terrain less direct and easier routes to the peak, Three hours from the start of the required constant attention to maintain but this one sounded like the most excit- Cathedral Trail, we reached the sum- our footing. After about two hours, we ing and challenging to us. The trail wastes mit of Katahdin and arrived at what
A panoramic view at the summit of Mount Katahdin. Credit: Bethany Augliere
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A view of the Knife Edge Trail from Pamola Peak at 1,499 meters. Credit: Bethany Augliere
The 5-kilometer Helon Taylor Trail slowly descends below the treeline and brings hik- ers back to the Roaring Brook Campground. Credit: Bethany Augliere felt like a party. Large groups of people After a respite at Baxter Peak, we hikers to stay on the marked path to help were standing by the sign — some even packed up for the next leg across the preserve the fragile alpine environment. climbing it — that marks the summit Knife Edge ridge. I was worried that It’s not a particularly daunting physical to take photos, having arrived by one we might not be able to hike the ridge challenge for someone in reasonably of six other paths up the mountain. because it’s so exposed. This is not a hike good shape and wearing good shoes, Thru-hikers were celebrating the end you attempt in rain, high wind, fog, or if though it can be mentally taxing — and of their four- to five-month walk in bad weather of any sort is looming on the perhaps even frightening for hikers with the woods with beer (which technically horizon. We were told by rangers to make little experience to such exposure. The isn’t allowed in the park), and many our decision once we reached the top. If hardest part for me was staying focused people, including us, had stopped to eat you get to the top and cannot attempt and constantly watching my footing — I lunch and drink in the views. In every the Knife Edge to complete your loop, could hardly even look up to enjoy the direction I saw lakes scattered across the you just take one of several trail options stunning views. A few sections require landscape and dozens of surrounding back down. scrambling over narrow ledges just a few peaks. The red and yellow fall foliage Most of the Knife Edge involves hik- meters wide with steep cliffs that plum- broke up the expansive unchanged deep ing over crusty, lichen-covered boulders met down hundreds of meters on either green of the evergreen forest. and fins — rangers and signs remind side of the trail. At one particularly
Hiking around Katahdin is quite varied: it can be a peaceful walk in the woods or a scary traverse across a rocky ledge — sometimes both in the same day. Credit: both: Bethany Augliere
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stomach-churning spot, the trail winds The Descent waterfalls and walks along an alpine around the side of a granite slab rather The Knife Edge brought us to Pamola tableland. Ten hours after we had started than over it. Peak, standing 1,494 meters above sea that morning, we arrived at the camp- Physically, the hardest part of the level and named for the legendary bird ground, exhausted but exhilarated and Knife Edge came during a section of the spirit in Penobscot mythology. Pamola, ready to relax. trail known as “The Chimney” toward the god of thunder, lived on, and pro- For anyone with hiking experience the end of the ridge (or the beginning for tected, Katahdin. He’s described as having who enjoys adventure in remote locations, those hikers making the traverse in the the head of a moose, body of a man, and I highly recommend Katahdin. There are opposite direction). One woman coming wings and feet of an eagle. The Penobscot multiple paths of varying degrees of dif- the other direction stopped to tell us that people feared and respected Pamola, so ficulty, but whichever path you choose, she’d cried while crossing it. The Chim- hiking the mountain was taboo. be prepared for a long, challenging day. ney is a notch in the ridge, the traverse of For the next 5.2 kilometers along the The payoff, however, includes incredible which involves a tricky 24-meter climb Helon Taylor Trail, we descended from views of the Maine woods; the chance to straight down over boulders without above treeline back into the forest. For see bears, moose and other wildlife; and climbing aids, followed by an equally this portion of the hike, I wished I had ample opportunity to stretch your legs in long, though less challenging, climb back brought trekking poles, as repeatedly a wild and rocky landscape. It was even up the other side. stepping down over boulders was a bit named one of the world’s 10 best summit Traversing the Knife Edge was hard on the knees. Our path down was hikes by National Geographic. exhausting, but the views along the way long and uneventful, but it was our only were spectacular — I was able to steal a option to make the trek a loop after tra- Augliere (www.bethanyaugliere.com) is a few glances along the way — and I felt a versing the Knife Edge. With so many freelance science writer and photographer. huge sense of accomplishment. We even trails to explore Katahdin, I think next She was an editorial intern for EARTH last stopped briefly to watch a black bear time we’ll pick a different route. Other summer and wrote from a lakeside cabin forage below us on the side of a ledge. paths, for instance, offer glimpses of in southeastern Maine.
Getting There & Getting Around
ount Katahdin in Baxter State Park is about with a pooch, drop it off at Katahdin Kritters pet resort M120 kilometers northwest of Bangor, Maine, and in Millinocket. its international airport. Once in Maine, you will need If you have time to explore the town of Millinocket, visit a car to get around. You can rent one at the airport or the Appalachian Trail Café and the local gallery of inter- drive in from another large regional city like Boston. Plan nationally published moose photographer Mark Picard. to visit in the summer months before Oct. 15, when the BA campgrounds close. Bear in mind, they can be closed earlier due to weather. Accommodation options include camping inside the park or at private campgrounds. You could also stay in the nearby town of Millinocket, which has several motels. Roaring Brook Campground is the best option if you want to hike a loop trail at Katahdin and traverse the Knife Edge. Outside the park, in between the town of Millinocket and the park entrance, Wilderness Edge Campground is highly rated. Gates to the park open at 6 a.m., and parking res- ervations are required for day-use. Campgrounds fill “Sign” marking the logging road to Blueberry Ledges Trail in up quickly, so plan accordingly. Note that dogs are Baxter State Park. Such signs are common in the region. not allowed in Baxter State Park, so if you’re traveling Credit: Bethany Augliere
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